This may sound dumb but in case it has been overlooked, check your wheels that they spin freely.

I would like to suggest that you change the cross cable connection like you stated in the video accept, attach it to the square tube bolt just above where it is in the video.

Keep on doing video Sir. We appreciate your unselfishly sharing your talent and labor.

@affordaplanestore

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you, I will

Hi again. I've been looking at the suggestions for your main landing gear. My humble opinion would be to do away with the cables and construct a rubber bungy system similar to a Cub. It shouldn't cost a bomb and won't add a ton of weight.

Terry, a tail dragger normally rotates to the left due to the counter rotation of the prop, meaning right rudder is mandatory...check engine thrust lines and offset with shims as needed..so if you're standing on left rudder. To run straight or with a trim tab recheck engine offsets...2 to 3 degrees in both directions.

Terry, you're doing a great job! You are a smart man and you're thoroughly inspecting your airplane. Keep up the good work. Get some "crow hopping" video posted so the KZread community can assess the behavior of your plane (after you correct your recent concerns). Thank you for all your hard work on this airplane and with posting these videos. I hope to one day follow in your footsteps and build my own.

Nice tires. to complement those fine looking tires i would suggest the Italian Brembo brakes or even the california wilwood brakes. :)

CONDOLENCES TO YOUR WIFE AND FAMILY WE ARE SAD TO SEE YOU LEAVING US FOR BETTER LIFE

Hi again Terry. I was looking at the rudder issue you brought up in your video. Now this one is serious. To have a rudder go walk abouts while flying is no joke. Useually you don't get to laugh about it afterwards. I think that I am going to do away with the rivits, make the rudder horn a little wider and have 2 captive 3/16 bolts through the rudder frame into the horn and secured with castle nuts. By the way I might do the whole airframe with casale nuts rather than nylock nuts. Nylock nuts are a one use fixture and should not be re-used once it is taken off. I just don't trust a nylock nut that much, and the casale nut is a much easier thing to check on while you are doing your D.I. before taking to the air. The amore mentioned captive bolts in the rudder could be made up by tack welding the bolts to a bridging plate that will be monte inside the rudder. This little bit of welding could be done by the local auto repair shop and should cost pennies. I think I must draw up a modification to explain my theory better. Can you send me an e-mail address so as I can attach a sketch for you to look at. My mail address is: southamarthur7@gmail.com. I look forward to hearing from you soon.

Hi Terry, Your very smart to post flight every inch of the plane to find weak areas now before they break. I watched your U bracket film and really see a flexing on the main gear bracket. I can see where the pressure on the left wheel would pull on the right bracket. NO. 1 I would use the heaver U bracket and back it up with a plate or large washer under the nut. No.2 get rid of the cable and use a aluminum rod between each wheel and the bracket , more like a jury strut of a wing. Let the main gear and tires take the flexing on landing. think about the Cessna gear the gear and tires take the bouncing. Go luck , Please post your changes I would love to see what you do .

The bolt directly above the current bracket looks like a good point over the wing attach point. Second thought is that there is no "spring" in the landing gear... hit hard somethings gotta give.. lower tire pressure may help :)

@affordaplanestore

4 жыл бұрын

Low tire pressure does help, so did learning to land it. LOL

Terry on the rudder, I am thinking like your idea of two top gusset plates with two bolts thru the rudder and two bolts thru the rudder plate, that way you have a positive capture of the rudder and take the strain off of the two rivets on the bottom plate, right now I can see the rivets are going to break and there go's rudder control. also get rid of the type of chain your using look at the welded chain at home depot, much stronger, I am using it on my front nose wheel on my Quick Silver GT 400, and it gave me more positive steering over the spring design that was on the plane originally.

The landing gear has room for improvement the attach point should made better and there should be a u shap bracket about 3 inches log on the support beam so the area is stronger and a spring system would be good but the plane looks great I’m going to build one and a few minor changes ok we’re needed but it is not a $150,000 Cessna and is designed for fun flying in certain conduction so you have done a great job

Don’t know if you ever got the bracket issue fixed. I did a quick drawing of how I would fix it by spreading the load. But I can’t attach it here. And I would also ditch the cables, they will always want to deform the setup when both wheels don’t touch at the same time. Cheers.

Has anyone thought about changing it to a tri- gear. I would be interested in building an A- plane if it could be done. Just not interested in a tail dragger. Also what about attaching the gear cables to the bolt that's right above where it is now to the 2x2 tube. Good work with great explaining of the process

@arthursoutham479

3 жыл бұрын

I think the trouble you are having on landing is to do with the tail wheel control. The set up is almost vertical which will allow the tail wheel to flop around. I think you would do yourself a favour if you were to splice into the rudder cables about a foot forward of the rudder control bell crank and attach your springs there. From there run cables with turnbuckles to the tail wheel. I've seen this done on other aircraft and they don't have any problems with landings. I hope this modification helps you fly really nicely.

I'm just a beginner, but I've been thinking the cub landing gear makes more sense. Just my thoughts, especially after seeing this.

Instead of attachiching to the landing gear bracket bolt you should attach it to the cross member bolt so the forces are on the cross member. I know its a year old video but that my suggestion.

PUT a block of wood to reinforce the area

replace the cables with solid rods with a hiem joint on each end.

Bolt a c channel for your landing gear Terry.

Could you move the mount up into the square tube Cut a notch in the bottom put a steel reinforcement on the outside front and back

Hi Terry. I hope you have sorted your gear problem by now. It could be a case of practice man practice. All will come right. I think it's the shock load of a bum landing that is doing the damage. On my one, when I get to building it, I will pay attention to the landing gear. I think I will make a special tang for the cables and attach it to the mounting bolt rather than to the one where it attaches to now. It will make assembling the gear a bit harder, but rather that than a worry about the airframe breaking. I am definatly a one for the bum landing scene. I will propose something to Dave before going ahead with any modifications. I think the idea of a steel plate under the undercarrege attachment is a good idea but build the cable attachment into it so as the cable pulls directory on the gear attachment bolt. Attaching to the strut attachment for me is a definite NO NO. Leave the bolt alone. What happens in the landing gear stays in the landing gear. I really enjoy your videos as they convey some of the issues i will encounter once I start and with your help I hope to overcome them during the building stage, rather than take it into the air and then bend it because something failed. Thanks once again for the video. It does help to look at these issues while building. Thanks.

👍👍👍👍👍

You are over thinking the slop on the rudder. I prefer the push pull tube control of the rudder and elevator over the cable systems but both seem to work fine in the air. I used to fly a Rotec Rally Sport and it used string instead of cable for control. It always made me double check things on the preflight even though it worked great in flight. Your right to want to beef up the rudder horn mounts as I can see that failing down the road. The tail wheels really take a beating on an ultralight on rough grass from my experience. I think if you ever get it off the ground your going to find the throttle concerns a non issue. The rigid landing gear designs I have never liked. Even my old Teratorn tail dragger had bungee suspension.

Even if the rudder bell crank was safe, you dont want the thought of a part coming off your airplane. Im sure you fixed this by now, but wondering how you did it. A piece of angle riveted to each side of the tube and flat down on the bell crank?

@affordaplanestore

4 жыл бұрын

Yep

Wow Terry it really think it’s that cable. And those brackets should go and a piece channel that runs the length of the mounting frame. Second you just need to trust the plane and your great workmanship. I’ve flown many ultralights and that is a bunch rudder. But there’s no more rudder than a 140 Cessna, or a super cub. Your a guy that works with wood and steal. Your gonna have a little play and it keeps the airframe from hair line future cracks. But I think it’s like the first girl you ask to prom. You can’t go over everything enough and think your gonna get turned down. Just ask her out and go fly and you will relax and better feel for the plane. Your a good teacher and craftsman and if you need me to come down from Michigan to spot you just let me know. Good luck brother 👍🏻😎

@dns4kworks338

4 жыл бұрын

Your a good man.

@jamessullivan4251

4 жыл бұрын

Move your cable to cross sq tube.

hello can you show us how covering wing and stabilisateur ,direction thank you lot's

@affordaplanestore

4 жыл бұрын

Check previous videos, I cover the wing covering process there.

@hadjnabil4811

4 жыл бұрын

@@affordaplanestore thank you lot's

what engine are you using, how much did you pay for it, and where can I find one like it? I am looking to build my own affordaplane.

@affordaplanestore

3 жыл бұрын

HIrth 2704, paid 2500 on barnstormers.com added a complete overhaul to it for about 600

@marlowerecoing-tallen3385

3 жыл бұрын

@@affordaplanestore thanks Terry, best wishes from Maine!

I would take that cable system off and just connect a small shock absorber _ from a bike shop or auto parts store.

@affordaplanestore

4 жыл бұрын

Possibly, trying to keep it simple and light.

@keithyz3943

4 жыл бұрын

@@affordaplanestore here some ideas that may or may not help.. kzread.info/dash/bejne/fXymqLSxob25mrA.html or kzread.info/dash/bejne/imdslrxuZbuuhJs.html

Your landing gear is dangerous. Look at WW1 biplanes for designs. You need for and aft stability. Those little U shaped bracket don't have enough to hold it stable. I would use a gusset to hold it in place.

Where you're from brother?

@affordaplanestore

3 жыл бұрын

Texas

@maharishi9111

3 жыл бұрын

@@affordaplanestore nice built

you can't even get your friends out there to supervise you? thats a low blow yo.

I think I can help you to make a landing gear from 1/2" aluminum plate, or tubular structure with bungee as your patreon

@affordaplanestore

3 жыл бұрын

Always appreciate great ideas!

Should not the 1" pipe connect to the 2x2 24' tube. That should lock in that bracket better, maybe?

I don't want to hear any bull shit ... 🤣🤣🤣🤣👍

سلام من یک ایرانی هستم .لطفا هر کسی میتواند به من کمک کند من برای مهاجرت به آمریکا اقدام کردم ولی موفق نشودم لطفا کمکم کنید بتوانم به آمریکا بیایم من آرزو دارم برای ساخت این نوع هواپیما به آمریکا مهاجرت کنم لطفا آرزوی من را براوده کنید لطفا. ممنون میشم.