A better title for this video might be, "woodworking by brail," or, "measure once, cut twice...or until it fits," or, "spiritual woodworking, a cut and a prayer".

@measure_once_cut_twice

8 ай бұрын

Not sure if this is a compliment or an insult, but I like all your titles.

@masterprompt

2 ай бұрын

@@measure_once_cut_twice I think it's their attempt at a playful acknowledgement on the lack of design that goes into your thing before you begin the manufacturing process. Personally, I enjoyed that aspect as for as much as I do designing 80% of the time before I begin my projects; I still have the ones where I just wing it and make mistake after mistake. its nice to see Im not the only one who does it :-)

ANGLE PROBLEM: This is due to the right wall deflection and the lead screw is not well lubricated. The right wall is very weak and must be reinforced. Again, DO NOT use Wood for this. You will need some plate steel .1785-.250" thick. This will make a sandwich of the right wall around the adjuster area. Pay close attention to the blade at 45" when installing the inner parts so that the blade does not contact the metal. You will need: One 1875”Th x 18.75”W x 7.0”H outer Plate Steel One .1250 ”Th x 10.0”W x 7.0”H Inner Plate Steel 1/4" Washers .125 thick 20 Grade 8 Hex head ¼-20 x 1/2” 30 Grade 8 Hex head ¼-20 x 5/8” 12 Grade 8 Hex head ¼-20 x 3/4" Bolts 62 30 Grade 8 Hex head ¼-20 Nyloc Nuts 20 ¼-20 x 1/8” washers 3 8-32 x 3/4" Phillips head stainless steel screws 3 8-32 Nyloc Nuts Two Horizontally mounted, ¾” x 18.75”L x .125"Th Steel L right angle bars. PC7 Epoxy 16oz One syringe tubes 10 Minute no sag epoxy gel for metal. Lacquer thinner. Rubber cloves. Lots of tools. 7/16" Wrenches, 3/8" click type Torque wrench, 8-32 & 1/4-20 Tap, 5/32", #30 & #7 Drill bits (Recommend Cobalt drills), Step drill. Markers, Scribe, Center punch, Hammers, files. Several 4-6" C-clamps, Center drill /countersink Spray primer and white spray paint, Graphite, Pencils, Dow GN Molykote grease. RIGHT SIDE DEFLECTS A LOT WHEN ADJUSTING BLADE ANGLE. Entire right side will need reinforcement using a Large outer .1875”Th x 18.875W x 10.75”H Plate Steel, and an inner assembly of; .125”Th x 10.0”W x 7.0”H Plate Steel and two horizontal ¾” x 18.875” long Steel L right angle bars. To correct this, we are going to make a sandwich clamp which clamps the case between two thick metal plates. a) Remove adjuster crank wheels, angle shaft and case. b) Lightly paint white or use Prussian blue, both sides of the plates and right angle bars c) Clamp both plates to outside of case and center Plate perimeters on the case. Clamp on place Scribe /trace the angle shaft hole. Find Center by scribing repeatedly across the diameter at different angles. Punch the center, Drill a pilot hole 5/32". d) With the shaft holes in both plates still aligned and clamped, layout in two concentric rings using a compass (3" Diameter and 6" diameter rings on the outside. e) Now, enlarge the center hole. Drill a. matching (75" -1.25”) hole through both plates to allow angle adjusting shaft to pass through. Smaller is better. Do not enlarge the existing hole in the case. f) Find the shaft inner ball mounting plate. Trace this onto the new outer plate Using existing case holes as a guide Punch then drill (from the inside outward) matching shaft mounting holes through both plates using a #40 pilot rill. g) Clamp the Right angle L bars into place on the inside of case, horizontally. Space equally vertically 1/3,1/3, 1/3 so you have a bar above and below the angle shaft hole. Punch and drill six 5/32" pilot, equally spaced holes into both the Steel L right angle bars at 3/8" width. Drill through the L Bar and the case and the two sheets. h) Drill 5/32” pilot bolt holes through the case and through both flat sheets, in both the 3" and 6"rings and in the corners of each plate, 1" from the edge of each plate. Good Rule is to have a bolt about every 2-2.5". You should now have all you pilot holes drilled. i) INNER PLATE ONLY: Remove C-clamps. then drill #7 holes and tap those holes to ¼-20, of inner plate the in two concentric rings of eight around which are centered on the shaft and a hole at each corner. The inner plate will also have through holed where the L bar is mounted. those six holes need to be drilled to 1/4". The inner plate mounting hole must be larger than the diameter of the mounting screws. To enlarge use a step drill. The inner plate must not cover the clamp. j) Enlarge the six pilot holes in the L Bars using a #7 drill bit. Then tap these holes ¼-20. i) OUTER PLATE ONLY Drill /enlarge outer plate holes to ¼”. There should be at least 30 holes. REMOVE all Burrs and drill flash. Plates must be smooth. Case must be smooth. Smooth clean holes. k) Loosely test assemble inner and outer plates, Adjuster shaft and Steel L right angle bars. Check for interferences with trunnion and blade at all angles. Make adjustments as needed. Where outer plate does not bolt to the inner plate use ¼-20 x 1/2”L Grade 8 bolts and Grade 8 Nyloc nuts with ¼” x.125th Grade 8 washers. l) When everything fits together Disassemble everything, FINAL ASSEMBLY: Rubber cloves are required. Failure to use epoxy to fill gaps will result in unwanted wall flex. m) Degrease all parts with Lacquer thinner and remove marker paint from new parts. Degrease case using a deglosser and Scotch Brite pad. Layout a drop cloth. n) You are on the clock here! Get all your bolts and tools ready. Having a helper is recommended. Apply a thin layer of 30 Minute epoxy with a plastic putty knife to the insides of each plate and to both sides of the case's adjuster wall. Join parts together. Have lots of paper towel and a garbage can handy. This is very messy. o) Clamp the plates together with ¼-20 bolts, as quickly as you can starting in the center and working outward. Epoxy should seep out on all sides. Max Torque is 12.0 Ft. lbs. Use a torque wrench. Install 8-32 screws and the shaft clamp p) As soon as all bolts are in tight, use lacquer thinner to clean up epoxy runs and drips. q) Complete the clamping process by using ¼-20 Nyloc nuts with red Loctite. When all nuts are inserted, torque the nuts. Max Torque is 12.0 Ft. lbs. Use a torque wrench. NOTE: DO not use Loctite on the holes for the L Bars yet. These bolts need to be removed after epoxy has set. q) After 48 hours in a >70°F room, the epoxy has hardened. Clean up any hardened epoxy with a razor blade scraper. INSTALL CROSS BARS: r) Remove the six bolts in the holes for each L bar. s) INSTALLING THE L BARs: Install the bar using epoxy on each surface and ¼-20 x 5/8" grade 8 bolts Max Torque is 12.0 Ft. lbs. Use a torque wrench. Where there is no inner plate use a 1/4" x 1/8" washer to fill the gap. t) Install the L bar nuts. Max Torque is 12.0 Ft. lbs. Use a torque wrench. Red Loctite all nuts in place. u) Reinforce the Angle Pointer with K&S 1/2" brass tubing. Encase the pointer in epoxy and slide tubing over it. No sag 10 minute epoxy works well for this. Epoxy Putty does not. Inject epoxy with a syringe. This is the only way you will get consistent repeatable angles without measuring once it is calibrated.

@measure_once_cut_twice

6 ай бұрын

Thank you for the very detailed instructions.

@jamiequinn9359

5 ай бұрын

Do you have a video of this upgrade (or repair) I have a Craftsman 113 10" table saw and changing angles is nearly impossible because of the flexing sheet metal.

@user-dp8nz7qn8e

5 ай бұрын

@@jamiequinn9359 No I do not have a video yet. and it will be a while. My instructions are pretty detailed. Depending upon your skills and experience will be large deterring factors. Plus you need Wrenches , Taps, Drills (Recommend Cobalt drills), Markers, Scribe, Center punch, Hammers, Several 4-6" C-clamps, Spray primer and spray paint, Graphite, Pencils, Dow GN Molykote grease. I have been repairing machines, correctly for decades. Obtain the materials as described first. Remove the blade and motor. Then invert the saw and the remove three bolts that hold the Case to the table top. Bag and label the bolts. Remove the angle adjuster lead screw stop) and the Lead screw. The lead screw is usually bent.. Straighten if needed. There are two different lengths the long 14.0" and a short 12.5" short screw. Check your Arbor for any play. Rotate and wiggle the arbor spindle. Wiggle the blade end and then the pully end. If you feel even the slightest play you need to change both your arbor bearings, I just changed mine and WOW Huge difference. Take pictures of everything not just videos. Let me know when you get this far and we can setup a phone call or video chat. JayRcarter a t g m a i l

Craftsman of old used to make a dust chute that would fit the underside of the saw stand. If you can find an old catalogue online you will know what to do, or maybe actually find the chute for sale.

@measure_once_cut_twice

6 ай бұрын

This thing that I made is pretty much the same as that, I think, it's basically a chute, just has a vacuum at the bottom.

Need that wood dust on concrete floor to soak up any spillage of liquids! Then you can sweep up liquid with your dust and toss! Nothing like smell of wood in the morning!

@measure_once_cut_twice

3 ай бұрын

I use dust for that too! Nothing beats how wood smells

I am truly amazed and glad he still, for the time being has all his fingers to make those mistakes. Well he is good... at making saw dust. Somebody please make him take a safety class or take away his power tools.

@measure_once_cut_twice

6 ай бұрын

Thank you for your concern, though I don't think that I do anything more dangerous than my peers in woodworking. I have seen many things on KZread that I would not do with a table saw, do you have anything in particular I did wrong? Or do you just generally not like my safety protocol?

REDUCING NOISE: 1. Change your v belts to flat belts. 2. Use machined steel rib belt pulleys 3.0" Diameter Motor pulley and 3.0" diameter Trunnion spindle pulley. 3. Add thick 20 mil Acoustic Mat to the inside of the saw frame in 2-3" wide vertical strips. in an irregular pattern. 4. Seal off any holes in saw frame with acoustic mat. 5. Remove rust first so mat will stick. Fill table top voids inside of saw with acoustic mat. 6. If sticking with V belts than change to a link belt. 7. Add motor tension springs. 8. Lubricate motor pivot mount. 9. Add a padded blanket around the base. 10. Wear 30db or greater hearing protection.

@measure_once_cut_twice

6 ай бұрын

I'm not sure what you mean about the belts, considering it's a direct drive table saw. And I don't remember if I asked in the video for tips on noise reduction, but thanks anyway.

I have a very similar saw, just the 10"version. around the 0:13 - 0:16 mark you mention you can't make it square. I have the same problem and maybe for the same reason. The problem is due mainly to the blades and partially to the sheet metal tables. The table is just stamped sheet metal or cast aluminum and can't be relied on the be flat. But the bigger issue is the blades. In my case, all the Craftsman blades that came with my saw are labeled "hollow ground". That is, the side of the blades were ground to be thinner near the center arbor hole and thicker at the edge, thus creating a kerf. If the side of the blade is set to flat against a square the blade will actually be slight off from 90 degrees to the table.

@measure_once_cut_twice

8 ай бұрын

Hmm, not sure I understand the hollow ground thing, but it might have something to do with it. It's just barely off of square, but no matter how hard you turn the handle it won't budge that last little bit, I should probably try cleaning out the gear ways underneath, that might help. Anyway, thanks for the tips!.

@brianmason5500

6 ай бұрын

Modern carbide tip blades do not have this problem as the teeth are wiser than the plate. But with the steel blades with the teeth cut into the plate I can see the reason for the hollow grind unless of course you can set the teeth like a hand saw. Not something the average Jane could do. But with the steel blade you can set it square when the gap is the same on both sides of the blade. Also with your saw there may be hard stops that can be adjusted to set the blade square. Check yours or find a manual online to describe this procedure.

@measure_once_cut_twice

6 ай бұрын

@@brianmason5500 I need to check the hard stops to see if there adjustable, I would really like for it to be square.

Hi I’m looking for a arbor but I believed for this model. The nut that holds the blades on? Can you recommend what I can use? Thank you. Thanks for posting video helps a lot.

@measure_once_cut_twice

6 ай бұрын

Not sure, it's a pretty specific size, but the thread should be standard. It looks like the arbor is 5/8", but the thread is either 11 tpi or 18 tpi, so you'll have to figure out which one it is, sorry I couldn't help more, thanks for commenting!

First eventually they are going to call you stubby. You practice no safety, no riving knife and no blade guard. I own an identical saw and have solved all these problems and the dust collection problems.. DUST PROBLEM SOLUTION for saws with open splayed legs.: You need to make a low pressure area of high velocity under the saw. Remove the belt. Remove the motor mount from the saw by loosening two black 1/2" bolts. Next remove the base from the saw (Four bolts.) Remove the frame from the table top Wood is a terrible material for dust collection parts.. Make templates from thick poster board or .020 thin rigid plastic sheet. You are making an object very similar to a big Gulp funnel. I tried the Big gulp and it does not work well for this application. The funnel is made in two identical halves bent at right angles. The halves are screwed and glued together Using .040 Aluminum (not wood!), You will create a four sided aerodynamic smooth funnel that tapers downward into a chisel point. Choose what side you want to extract the dust the funnel will be in two pieces and have two seams. The side of t funnel with the port must be reinforced with two layers of aluminum at least 10"tall, 10"wide and bent reinforcements on both sides. and caulk into place on the inside. Heat / Anneal the areas where you intend to bend. Test fit and mark where it sits. The wall with the port must be vertical. Bend into a shape of a funnel. Caulk the seams. Caulk all the holes in the saw frame. Make a rubber gasket from .062- .125 "TH neoprene for the angle locking knob and glue into place with contact cement. Do the sale for the blade height wheel and angle slot. Make a long gasket with a slit in the middle of it. You have about 27" from the top of the base to the bottom vertically. Your funnel should be 1-2" off the ground and you want the funnel to extend upwards into the saw about 6-8". About 1/2" above the mark you made you want to cut the bends down to that line and temporally bend vertical into a rough rectangle and bend the corners 90° . This will allow you to put the saw back onto its base with the help of a friend. But not yet. Problem, is you have a lip inside the saw frame that needs to be covered with the aluminum above the base. Else Sawdust will accumulate. These aluminum "flanges" are bent inward to allow the table saw to be remounted onto the base. Drill two 3/16" holes into each side about 4-5" apart and a 1/2" height lower than the aluminum flange height. Into these holes you will eventually insert four #8 x1.0" hex head self drilling screws to hold the flanges at their maximum angle. Reattach the frame to the base without the saw. Now that you have the funnel made and ready put into place. DECIDE: You can either glue it in place with expanding foam or screw it in place to the base with four #8 x1.5" hex head self drilling screws placed through the base. To make it removable, you need to wrap the outside Saran plastic wrap. I chose not to. Either way, use LV expanding foam with long gloves and not Duct tape. Apply the foam behind all four Aluminum flanges Go slow but make sure it fills all the cracks and corners. Do one side at a time and then screw that side into place with the #8 x1.0" hex head self drilling screw. Then repeat for the next side. Use 3" wide Aluminum tape to seal any expanding foam seam leaks. Connect your 4" port to the funnel with 6-8 screws and caulk Allow to caulk harden for 48 hours. 2" wide Aluminum tape can be used to smooth out any rough edges by applying pressure only on the edges of the tape and not in the middle. TEST: Layout plastic 8 x 8' on the floor Get small bucket of sawdust and slowly pour it into the funnel from every angle without suction. shake funnel slightly and note with a marker where dust is accumulating. Remove any near horizontal lips or ledges and cover with Aluminum, tape. NOT DUCT tape. Duct tape will quickly dry out and fail.. Aluminum tape does not dry out. Clean up funnel and repeat test until there are no places saw dust can accumulate. TEST with Suction on. Same test. But do not skip previous test or you have wasted your time and money. Lubricate the saw. Reassemble the saw. NOTE: Rear of saw is the air inlet. So no dust should accumulate here. You can adjust air velocity by blocking off up to 50% of this area. But since the Motor swings with the trunnion you will never cover the entire area. If you did cover the entire area, you would slow down the air velocity and starve your dust collection system for air. You want to move a lot of air very quickly You need BOTH suction above the blade for fine particles and below the blade for heavy particles. Use a cyclonic dust collector on a 25" or taller barrel. The taller the barrel the better they work. 5 gallon buckets do not work well. I have funnel plans available wit a list of parts. My Funnel is designed for a right side port. But modification for a rear port is simple.

@measure_once_cut_twice

6 ай бұрын

Well, first of all, you do not have an identical saw, this one is direct drive, less desirable I hear, but still a good saw. Secondly, if I wanted a hermetically sealed table saw, I would have put more effort in, I thought it was clear from the video that that was not what I wanted, my only desire was to not have giant piles of saw dust on the floor every time I used my saw, I did that, so, success. Anyway, thank you for all the instructions, I'm sure you're very knowledgeable on this and if I ever want really good dust collection, I'll look back at these comments. It's just not that important to me now, considering most of my tools don't, and pretty much CAN'T have collection, it really doesn't matter if there's one more.

JFC, please for the love of god make yourself a push stick. Never pull material through the saw. Better safe with 10 fingers than sorry with nine

@measure_once_cut_twice

5 ай бұрын

I have one, just didn’t need it right then