Adam Ondra is such an incredible ambassador of sportmanship, curiosity, enthusiasm and humility. Climbing is so well served by him.

@4vendetta1

3 жыл бұрын

Agreed I don't climb but I really like him.

@YourLovelyDoctorX

3 жыл бұрын

👏👏👏

@bowserhoudini5588

2 жыл бұрын

Yea climbing and diving communities seem to be in good hands. Now I just need to have some balls and try one

Its like an 800M guy training for 110M hurdle event. Literally, like look at the energy systems used for each. I'm stoked climbing is in the Olympics but it's silly to combine all 3 disciplines. Should be 3 individual medals. But we gotta start somewhere I guess.

@benmurray8921

5 жыл бұрын

there are events like heptathlon and decathlon in athletics, perhaps as climbing grows in improvements this triple event discipline will remain in place?

@largeformatlandscape

5 жыл бұрын

@@benmurray8921 Speed trad climbing is needed...

@inazuma3gou

5 жыл бұрын

Too bad free soloing El Capitan is not an event. At the end, there will be only one survivor.... literally.

@briseboy

5 жыл бұрын

@@largeformatlandscape i always think of this when they erroneously call clipping "lead." To lead is to place pro Except in free solo. If in sport, or more accurately, bolted routes, lead still has to choose & hang quickdraws. So real lead climbing is to place cams, hexes, pound pitons, or drill, glue, bolt, then place draws. "sport" is in the eye of the beholder. At least no one is playing with their balls or elbowing others here - that's toddler squabbling, not sport, and swatting at your balls should not be in olympics.

@goncaloamaralalves6787

5 жыл бұрын

fortunately, the committee of Olympic sports has decided to run 3 separate climbing disciplines in 2024 (Paris).

love how happy the kid is showing the autograph to his buddies at 3:43

@DeFausti

3 жыл бұрын

so cute!

The only video about speed climbing I was able to watch all the way through.

@Poitre72

5 жыл бұрын

I find this one very interesting too : kzread.info/dash/bejne/anyZwc-KndfRaNo.html

Improvement for 2024 Olympics: score climbing based on combined result of Bouldering, Lead and Basket Weaving

@xNajda

5 жыл бұрын

Really it should just be split into 3 categories. It's just a new experimental addition so they lump it all into one event.

@swifthippo1

5 жыл бұрын

Haha yeah that would make for some more accurate results

@andyseverance1519

5 жыл бұрын

They have a combined format since they wanted to get climbing into the Olympics and were only given one event. If they make it back to Paris in 2024, they want to split speed and lead/bouldering. www.climbing.com/people/new-climbing-format-proposed-for-2024-paris-olympics-separates-speed-climbing/

@JerreMuesli

3 жыл бұрын

Easy win for skuzzlebut

@Nicetacoful

3 жыл бұрын

@@JerreMuesliyeah but his climbing is gonna be seriously hindered by that celery arm and Patrick Duffy

0:30 'waiting for your friend to finish at the club when you're designated driver'.

@adamo2993

5 жыл бұрын

Imagine showing that to a non climber out of context

@piiinkDeluxe

5 жыл бұрын

😂

@madelinepindell7870

4 жыл бұрын

ada mo hahahah oh my goodness

@paraescucharrap

3 жыл бұрын

haha thanks for this comment lol

The cameradude did well for a five month boulderer!

@chrissmithdoe2100

5 жыл бұрын

extremely well

@AppledownStudios

5 жыл бұрын

It must help spending every session with the world's best climber!

@maddin74

5 жыл бұрын

Pavel aka Paveu best man 😊💪🏻

@maximedelmas

5 жыл бұрын

Well I'm sending 7a after 4 month, and I'm not the only one, so I don't think it's very impressive to top 6b+ after 5 month! I don't want to sound arrogant but it's my opinion.

@friederwittmann7104

5 жыл бұрын

@@maximedelmas He did it in

The more you hate speed the quicker you wanna get it over with. Strangely ironic.

Watching the top speed climbers looks surreal, I'm always thinking they are pulled up by the rope 🤣

0:30 when you've popped a pill and go clubbing

@CrushingReality

4 жыл бұрын

underappreciated comment!

@vincentmoon9187

3 жыл бұрын

hahahahaha

@duganrocks100

3 жыл бұрын

Hahaha, I was thinking a molly at a rave.

@sluttymctits4496

3 жыл бұрын

I come from a year in the future just to say this comment is fabulous. I think we've all either been there ourselves, or have known/seen someone who has.

"Speed is about precision too" Really liked what Adam said here. Applicable for when on the rock and off of it

This is 100% the opposite what i love about sportsclimbing.

@Snake.coyote666

3 жыл бұрын

Geogaddi exactly !! Speed climbing is not logical....climbing is...slowly !

@nottsoserious

2 жыл бұрын

@@Snake.coyote666 climbing is all about endurance, strength, creativity, balance, perfection. Speed climbing doesn't have that. Just one route every fucking time. Should be a separate medal.

No ego. Such a goat, yet he takes on something which he isn't specialist in and has a student attitude. Totally authentic and great person.

I can't make myself interested in speed climbing

@ecstaticdancehamburg

5 жыл бұрын

me neither. I don't understand how it has become olympic discipline...

@Schrodinger_

5 жыл бұрын

I would actually love it if they made a new route each competition (even if it was just one route for a whole round, rather than 4). The fact that it's always one route just makes it seem silly.

@RADLadio

5 жыл бұрын

@@ecstaticdancehamburg actually I think it has been created in an Olympic purpose: same route standardized, focused on speed.. it's very similar to atheltics

@kylelang9878

5 жыл бұрын

@@RADLadio Fair point, but here's a counter: climbing is distinct from other Olympic disciplines in that one of the primary focuses in both bouldering and lead is that you are solving a problem. At its core, running is about speed and nothing else. Your gait, pace, and style mean nothing unless you can run fast. Climbing, on the other hand, requires a technical understanding of positioning and creativity applied to each route in order to find the most efficient method of topping. Speed climbing would be much more in sync with this core discipline if the route changed per competition, but I have no idea if that would work. On the whole, it's understandable why most climbers find speed climbing uninteresting. Nevertheless, I respect Adam for his choice to make the best of a sub-optimal situation.

@strongarmclimbing

5 жыл бұрын

Seems like it'd be pretty easy to come up with a format that allows the route to change every comp, something like a qualifier, semi-final and final where the qualifiers you get a certain amount of practice on the new route but the slowest to learn to do it quickly get knocked out, same with semi-finals, and in the finals those that made it would be able to ramp up their speed as they learn the route.

I'm pulling hard for Adam to win gold in the Olympics. I love his dedication to the whole process. Lets go Adam!

@emiliomunoz28

5 жыл бұрын

Tomoa will make it interesting. In the end it will depend a lot on the style of the climbs. In static lead/ boulder style, adam wins for sure, but in the new style of climbing, tomoa is god. And well Tomoa is far better in speed than Adam. Can't wait for these two beasts to fight.

@emiliomunoz28

5 жыл бұрын

@@orlandopockets6372 I think he has a good chance of geting it, but don't underestimate Tomoa! He beated Adam in Boulder this season, he is actually good in lead and he is doing 6,8 secs in speed wall at the moment (he can still improve). My bet is that it's going to be narrow between this two, Adam has advantange in lead an Tomoa in speed, boulder they are equal.

@patrickfitzgerald6073

5 жыл бұрын

@@orlandopockets6372 I can visualize what it's like to run 100m. I can practice it virtually anytime any place. Will I win gold in that event?

@travisrexrode1538

5 жыл бұрын

@@patrickfitzgerald6073 No. But that's because you're just an average person who sits on their computer for most of the day.

@patrickfitzgerald6073

5 жыл бұрын

@@travisrexrode1538 exactly my point. I'm probably somewhat above average at running the 100m, but I'm definitely now where near world class and never will be. Part of that is genetics I think, and part of that is my lack of physical training. My previous post was to suggest that knowing the sequence of holds probably doesn't mean that much for success in speed climbing.

So much to learn from Adam’s positive attitude even if he hates speed climbing. He can actually psyche himself up and make it fun for him. We can apply that to so many aspects in our lives.

Well, adam said that he is far away from the top speed climbers. How far away are the fastest speed climbers from top lead climbers and boulderers? It's ridiculous

@briseboy

5 жыл бұрын

1 1/2 seconds. didn't think that EVERY speed route was the same holds, same spread! I thought it would be a game of adaptation or memory - two more possible, BETTER forms of speed.

It's so fascinating that, on the surface, it looks so sloppy and just scrambling up the wall. But, when you look closer, it is precise, perfect and efficient. Can't wait to see it next year.

7.70 is actually amazing for someone who has climbed speed for so little time I'd imagine. Sick stuff

@nottsoserious

2 жыл бұрын

It's a shitty way to organize the Olympics and everyone knows it. But still Adam is open to competing and trying to do his best. That's what I love about this guy, he's just a great sportsman and human being.

Incredible! It sort of reminds of Rubik's cubes speed comps since you have to do everything perfectly to a tee to squeeze through those final precious seconds.

Always good to be a student again!

Congrats Adam on breaking your personal best in Tokyo.

I’ve been to a climbing gym twice now and when I was there the second time I tried the speed wall… I couldn’t even get up the entire thing and I tried for a WHILE 😭😂

Pretty cool video! Didn't even know that speed climb was the same exact route every single time xD

Since the route is standardized, I wonder if it would make sense to treat it like one would a piece of music: slow and deliberate at first, and increase the "tempo" little by little, as opposed to try to go as fast as possible right off the bat.

Checking in a few days before olympics to refresh my memory about Adam's speed results at the start of training... and hopefully to see him progress in the actual event!

Great episode! The cameraman is good on the wall!

Ya Pavel!!! Dont outshine Adam too much now. ;)

I want to say that you were pretty amazing in Vail. Things didn't work out exactly as planned. Oh well, Next! That dynamic dyno on #4, oh man that was super sexy. That was worth the whole experience, even with the outcome. Sometimes taking chances is rewarding in ways that you have no way of gauging until after the amazing happens. Cross training can help a person realize their weaknesses and it will inevitably humble even the best sometimes. Growth happens because of conflict and internal resolution of that conflict. Without conflict growth cannot happen.

@Robert_McGarry_Poems

5 жыл бұрын

Keep it up Adam.

Wow. That gym is so freaking nice. The craziest climbing gym ive ever seen.

Very good explication of speed climbing I don't understand why in the olimpics they put all three modes of climbing together for one single medal. I am waitting so much to see climbing in my tv in Tokio's games. BUT speed climbing for me is another thing, maybe espectacular or fun but with no much in common with lead or bouldering and don't talk about rock climbing. It looks very difficult and challenging because of that i would like to try it, but is another game. I heard in 2024 these will be separated. I hope so

@ingrossa

5 жыл бұрын

Climbing is a new sport in the 2020 olympics and there are so many summer olympic sports that climbing only received two sets of medals at first, one for women and one for men. So then they had to compromise when deciding what climbing discipline to include and decided to combine the three. Its a good start to get climbing on the olympics but I agree that speed should be separate for sure. Boulering and lead could be combined cause they're more similar, although I personally would love to see them as their own discipline as well.

When I first climed a speed wall I felt it to be easier the faster I climed. But the 36s of Pavel are actually very good for an amateur I think. Maybe you should continue to train with Adam 😉

Thanks for that!

0:35 when the Salvia kicks in, but your friend waits for his lighter

@dylandog1289

2 жыл бұрын

They are, it looks like an auto belay system, it applies constant tension on the climber (maybe 15lbs of “pull”). Its not a lot, but its certainly easier than bouldering the same wall.

It is cool at 8:20 how you can see the difference between experience levels and disciplines, the way the other guy uses 3/4 of his limbs to launch himself is crazy

It really looks as though Adam's times will come down as the route becomes more a question of muscle memory than active thought. It'll be interesting to see how low he can get his times.

@henning_jasper

5 жыл бұрын

@@orlandopockets6372 haha that'd be awesome. On a serious note though, I hope he consistently manages below 7 seconds for the olympics.

So looking at the foothold while you place your foot is basic good technique isn’t it? How hard is it to transition to speed climbing since they basically don’t do that?

@sswwooppee

5 жыл бұрын

drew13600 That makes transitioning between them a new climbing skill in itself exclusive to Olympic climbing.

If you gave Adam 1 straight year to master this i can guarantee he would break that guys record.He is just flat out that talented.

6.86, nadherny závěr, škoda, že stavitele druhe discipliny nikdy zřejmě nelezli... skvely vykon i tak, jsi nas VÍTĚZ!! Těším se na Paříž 2024 i na další soutěže.

@youaregonnalikeme3882

2 жыл бұрын

Kdybys i poslouchal, tak v jednom z přenosů říkali, že stavitel musí mít totální znalosti, právě proto aby věděli co můžou postavit a co ne, musí mít různé kurzy na to a jsou to vynikající lezci.

I gave the video a like bacuse im happy Adam is trying speed climb!! if he trains i think he can beat 6 seconds!

I am curious how the speed climbers will do in the other disciplines.

@michaelduha

5 жыл бұрын

My guess is they will have an easier time transitioning. I am sure that most speed climbers already boulder and lead.

@marcosjuan3142

5 жыл бұрын

They have no chance in other disciplines

@Skadi2k3

5 жыл бұрын

I'd say no chance, too much muscle mass. This is like a 100m sprint.

@marcosjuan3142

5 жыл бұрын

@@Skadi2k3 and the technique is so much different...

@jen48799

5 жыл бұрын

Orlando Pockets I understand that, it would require a speed climber to excel at either lead or bouldering. It’s more a curiosity of who has the advantage in training, lead and bouldering disciplines to learn speed or speed training for lead or bouldering.

Have you started training legs then?

Wow! Impressive

Well done!

looks like something thats good to do once before every climbing session, instead of dedicating a whole day just to speed climbing.

'when I try hard enough I can find some fun about it' - I tend to agree ;p

thought speed climbing was dumb, and then learned that the route hasn't changed in over a decade---why do people do this

@Dumass88

5 жыл бұрын

probably because you can't fairly break a speed-record on a different route.

@LL-fn2jt

4 жыл бұрын

NOTHING ABOUT CLIMBING IS DUMB. CLIMBING IS VERY SMART. ALL OF IT.

@MisterK9739

4 жыл бұрын

@@LL-fn2jt except speed really is pretty dumb... but hey everybody enjoys diffrent things

@andrewpatterson3662

4 жыл бұрын

@@MisterK9739 There's an inherent ambition in humans to always go faster. If your argument is, "speed is dumb," then why do we have 100m as an olympic event, or literally any other track event? Most people would disagree with you when you say that speed is dumb...and that's not limited just to speedclimbing. And besides, speedclimbing is actually really fun. The problem with it being in the olympics is that all 3 disciplines are combined, when they need to be separate.

@MisterK9739

4 жыл бұрын

Andrew Patterson Speed climbing itself is super interesting. Speed climbing outdoors is super intense and creative! But the competitive speedclimbung just isn't interesting. Climbing is and has always been about solving problems. Even speed climbing outdoors is about finding the quickest, most efficient route to the top using everything available. Comp speedclimbing has ZERO creativity and ZERO problem solving. It's pure power and muscle memory.

No idea there was a 5 degree overhang. That must make it so much harder... if there was a 5 degree incline instead, these guys would probably literally run up with just their feet.

Nechápu jak můžou lézt na ty zdi tak rychle.👏

Who is here after Olympics 2021 when Adam hit his record sub 7 seconds

Speedclimbing in general is not that bad. Just the current comp mode has nothing to do with the other two climbing disciplines. A modus similar to the psycoblock would be awesome though. Harder route, different route every comp, even the ko system.

Great socks adam !

he makes it looks sooo easy.

Adam, please go to Indonesia 🇮🇩 to see how Indonesian speed climbing athlete get training for speed climbing competition. You can training together with them, and You have huge of fan in Indonesia. Hope you learn something new about speed climbing training when you come to Indonesia.. And I can't wait to meet you here :)

Pretty funny how arguably the best climber in the world has to unlearn bad climbing habits

@w0ttheh3ll

5 жыл бұрын

like conserving your strength by using good, precise technique

@johnxantoro5511

5 жыл бұрын

You mean learn bad climbing habits...

@friederwittmann7104

5 жыл бұрын

Might be just that he practiced speed without good instructions and learned less than optimal movement patterns.

@sswwooppee

5 жыл бұрын

drew13600 is speed necessary for some routes?

@tacticalchunder1207

5 жыл бұрын

Learn bad ones*

One thing that scares me about speed is that you dont even have time to look where your feet are. It seems so different compared to bouldering

Nice video

Falta um desses no Brasil.

I love bouldering, just got into climbing, only top rope so far tho, lead soon, but speed climbing still looks like a lot of fun to me :)

Climbing is SO COMPLEX AND CHALLENGING and it is ridiculous that at the Olympics it is all jammed into one discipline. Climbing needs to be divided into 3 separate competitions, and 3 sets of medals. Runners don't run 100m, 400 m and a marathon all in one competition and one overall medal either!

They go up these alls faster than i can stand up from the couch...

His score is amazing for somebody (well Adam Ondra is not just anybody) who has never done speed Climbing before - he beats Women’s 2013 world record

There was a funny poll in my gym on the whiteboard the other day: A) Only speed climb Or B) Never climb again

I need to hurry up running 20 meter straight bottom for a time of 5 seconds😅

Can anyone think of another Olympic event where training for one aspect is contrary to the mind body work necessary for the other?

He saying sub six seconds isn't hard and I'm sitting here like I couldn't climb a ladder of that height in sub 10 seconds.

I think the addition of this faster paced climbing will bring more interest to climbing but I'm dissapointed it's combined. I could make for some very interesting athletes though.

are they being helped with the rope or the climbing is all on them?

come on Adam ... Valmalenco root for you ;)

0:30 wow that's a pretty cool dance

Who do you think has the advantage at the Olympics? Speed climbers, Lead climbers or Boulderers?

@tacticalchunder1207

5 жыл бұрын

Speed climbers won’t be nearly as good as lead climbers/boulderers overall.

0:30 looks like a Napoleon Dynamite victory dance... LOOOOOLLL

nice

Hmm... question... climbers in most cases have been trained from the start to have endurance muscles since they need it for climbing the routes and not letting go of the wall. Maybe they can break the record if a child trains from the start to be a speed climber.

The speed climbing route is graded 6b+? I don’t think that’s right...

@nowdatsfresh

5 жыл бұрын

@drew13600 High. I've tried the route out and I'd say it's more like 5.9/5b. Here's a wired reporter trying the route: kzread.info/dash/bejne/l2xqlbOrYM3HidI.html . I find it kind of hard to believe a non-climber could flash 6b+

Man, I hate speed climbing!

Hey Adam. Love your videos. Your videos until now have been subtitled, except for this one. Could you please add subtitles to the whole video, so we who can't hear can watch it too? Thanks, keep up the great work!

Did he say it was easier in sneakers at the end?

0:37 looks like he's dancing in his dreams

"don't look at your feet" he said :)

Hearing Czech spoken as a Russian speaker is like hearing Dutch as an English speaker. You recognize certain words and the rest sounds like you could maybe understand if it wasn't for the accent, and its maddening.

I think I would look a speed climbing like a sheet of music for piano : start slowly in order to get every movement and optimised, then start adding the speed element little by little

@goltho4532

5 жыл бұрын

Sounds good doesn't work: the movements made by the pros require some speed, momentum. By going slowly you cannot repeat those moves and train them

witaj Pawle

Is this the cousin of Petr Cech? 😂 (hope I spelled correctly)

It seems like the safety is on a spring loaded weight system, which aids the climber somewhat. I'd like to see speed climbing over water, eliminating the need for this belay system. Let's see how you guys do then?!

@steveeisenburger6011

3 жыл бұрын

But, without reservation, kudos to you fit bastards. Strong as Ox's...👍🏻

Where is the outdoor gym?

It is there... Because the gods of climbing are tall tally ones.

The same route since 2007 in every competition? What does that even mean? Aren't people then only training to speed climb this specific route rather than speed climbing as a general skill...I don't understand at all.

@neo778

5 жыл бұрын

Shifter yes, the same holds and the same route. Actually crazy.

@LC-le9ew

4 жыл бұрын

I know, right! Might as well put a ladder up against the wall and see who can reach the top first.

@justpiddlinalong621

3 жыл бұрын

It’s really no different to the climbing version of hurdles, are you going to say that event is stupid because it’s always the same track with the same obstacles?

it looks so much smaller in person i swear

Are they being pulled by the rope?

Would you like to come open blocks to Vitry-le-François in the marl on the wall of the club you are the best

For the first try on the speed route I did 28 sec.

@michalifabian9646

5 жыл бұрын

בחיפה?

@user-jc3km6by6q

5 жыл бұрын

@@michalifabian9646 yes

This event is going to kill his chances at Olympic gold. I still don’t understand why they aren’t breaking up the three different disciplines.

Is it me or Labor won championship because he started before start signal?

Don't get where speed climbing gets all the hate from, I personally think it's a fun way to climb.

@user-ih3jl9um6e

5 жыл бұрын

But training for it is really boring, the same thing over and over again.

@freshsoulification

5 жыл бұрын

100m's sprinters do it...

@briseboy

5 жыл бұрын

@drew13600 Maybe it helps develop accurate dynos and crossing new grades of difficulty because two or more intermediate holds . . . Pros get mucho dinero & shoe & harness makers love to sell things. All has descended into the hell of cash, from mountaineering to surfing to skateboarding. The world is hell - might as well practice climbing out of it. Hot holds, ya know.

@tacticalchunder1207

5 жыл бұрын

Because it is the complete opposite to what climbing is supposed to be. There’s no route reading or thought, different body positions or techniques. It’s just brute force and speed.

I don’t understand, the discipline is completely different from bouldering. How could the Olympic Games place 3 separate disciplines into 1 competition. Hopefully, this decision evolves. IMO- it’s equivalent to a long distance runner, a sprinter and a hurdler all competing in one race.

@burnheart123

5 жыл бұрын

The disciplines in decathlon are even more different. But one could argue that it's a good combination, to find the best overall athlete. And with Bouldering, Lead and Speed, one can find the best overall climber.

@melissasmidt222

5 жыл бұрын

burnheart123 We agree to disagree. Clearly, many climbers haven’t speed climbed before, and have zero interest in doing so. How could you state, the Olympic’s will find the overall best. Rhetorical. Thanks for your feedback tho.

@michaelduha

5 жыл бұрын

@@melissasmidt222 I agree I think speed climbers will have the advantage. But that doesn't make them better climbers. To be good at speed you have speed climb all the time, and many climbers that boulder and top just don't speed. But I would be shocked if speed climbers don't dabble in boulder and lead already.

@mathias5618

5 жыл бұрын

Climbing is new to the olympics and can only get one medal. It would be either only one discipline or all combined. As it stands the olympics after this one will have a seperate speed comp and combined boulder and lead

@burnheart123

5 жыл бұрын

@@mathias5618 That's the proposed format and the IOC will vote on it at the end of June. But I couldn't find any information on what the voting options are. What happens if they don't accept the new format? Will it stay as it is in Tokyo, or do they remove climbing again? www.olympic.org/news/paris-2024-focused-on-creating-an-innovative-olympic-games-for-all-of-france

the mans left early on the 5.76

Speed climbers: Olympic committee: Imma bout to make this man's whole career

Being John Malkovich

I think the combination is interesting for olympic sport. Because all three disciplines are so different, the winner will be the athlete that can train the best and not the one with the most talent.