When wiring in a flexible cord, you should always make the earth wire the longest in case you gett a pulling force on the cord. For example if you stumbled over the cord and yanked the live wires out of its socket the case off the machine will still be grounded and tripp the overcurrent braker or fault circuit breaker.

This video is really useful. I'm a UK blacksmith by profession and looking into if I should get an induction heater, this answered most of my questions in an easy to understand way 👌👏 Much appreciated

@joshuadelisle

5 ай бұрын

Thank you so much. It's certainly very convenient for small jobs and short localized heats. For large batches and bigger stuff I use my coke/charcoal forge. Cheers J

Fascinating and a great option when you live in close quarters and you don't want your neighbors to smell a coal fire or see propane flames rolling out of your garage. Great video.

No “BS” just facts a refreshing change to “ high guys “ Keep them coming.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you. Cheers J

@kermitthefragg

Жыл бұрын

Pretty sure it's "hi guys" 😂

Down to earth explanations, acknowledging limitations in knowledge and a sense of humour. Subscribed!!!

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. Cheers J

To use the 'socket system' I would definitely recommend going 10mm² cables. The induction heater itself might use 6mm², but then you're adding the water pump, a potential cooler, and whatever else you decide off that same supply.

@court2379

Жыл бұрын

Also the temperature rating of the wiring is often different. That short section will have higher resistance and heat up more. The insulation must be rated for that. The much longer cord will drop the voltage excessively and may not be rated for the temperature, or the connection points (breaker) may not be rated for the heat.

@dieSpinnt

Жыл бұрын

@@court2379 Not only that. Multi-core cables have completely different specifications than single-core cables laid in air, e.g. in cable ducts or control cabinets. It should also be noted here that this is a flexible cable of a special type (this is mandatory if a supply line is used as mobile and with a plug connection). These cables have to be specially insulated, heat-resistant (for use in the workshop, here in a smelter anyway!) and suitable for recurring rolling up and unrolling, against stepping loads, etc. This further reduces the allowed current factor. As an example: A single-core 10mm^2 cable can be loaded with up to 70A if laid optimally (e.g. harmonized flexible cable in switch cabinets), in a multi-core cable with 2 loaded strands and as a sheathed cable lying on the cable duct (or the floor) only with 63A and in thermally insulated walls with 43A. Keep in mind that the protection of the plug and cable (i.e. directly on the plug connection as is often the case with you English and Americans, but mostly in the distribution box) determines the dimensioning of the supply line[1]. For example, you can't use 0.08mm^2 for something that technically would allow it (3A), but that would completely negate the point of fuses, as your cable would burn out immediately, posing a risk of fire and electric shock in the event of a failure . (Note, 0.08 only applies to individual wires in the control cabinet with a load capacity of 3A. For 3A as a plug-in cable or openly laid multi-core cable, at least 3x0.5mm^2 is required!!!). Furthermore, everything is specified for 20°C. For example, if the normal ambient temperature is 40°C, the dimensioning must be corrected by a factor of 0.82. If a three-phase device is operated, the above values change from 63A to 57A. If the cable is operated in the wound state, then an additional factor of 0.80 applies for one winding layer and 0.61 for two. All of this can be read in DIN VDE 0298 Part 4. Greetings from Germany, by the way:) In other countries, corresponding standards apply, because despite some differences, the physics are still the same!:) [1] You're all making a mistake with your thinking (or lack of knowledge?) there. A deadly one;) "That short section will have higher resistance and heat up more." Shorter means LESS resistance and better conductance = less heat-loss. R=ρ*l/A. Where ρ is the specific resistance (copper cables ~= 0,0169...0,0175 Ω · mm2/m), for a straight conductor with a constant cross-sectional area A, and the length l. Do the math. When the l(ength) gets smaller, the R(esistance) also gets smaller. "The insulation must be rated for that." Yes, that is the whole point of all those regulations and the data sheet of the cable. There is no insulation which does somehow magically allow for an out of specification used cable with the wrong cross-section. As said above those these special requirements reduce the heat dissipation of the system (conductor + reinforcement + additives + sheathing + construction + routing type) and that requires the higher dimensioning of the conductor cross-section. WE MOVE IN THIS CAUSAL DIRECTION OF THINKING ... and not the other way around(we start from our CURRENT REQUIREMENTS ... and then choose cable and type of cable!), which doesn't make any sense. "The much longer cord will drop the voltage excessively[sic!]" .... WHUT? U=R*I ... "and may not be rated for the temperature" ... P=U*I where you can calculate your heating with the constant for copper. NO MAGIC! And in no case "excessively" ROTFL. BTW for every 10m PLUG-IN cable over 10m length we use a factor of 0.9. That automatically makes you use a bigger cross-section if you are in need of such cables. And now back to you. WTF??? If you make the cable double as long, you get double the resistance and double the power loss over this purely thermal resistance. This means double the thermal energy has to be dissipated. That was your thought .... or something in that direction? But you absolutely forgot that we now have the double amount of copper ... the double physical amount of REAL COPPER dissipating the same heat as before. All rules that are mentioned (they are not complete!!!) are in place. The loss of voltage over a ridiculously long power cord may be a thing (I said how we mitigate this!), but your point with the influence on temperature is total nonsense!:) "or the connection points (breaker) may not be rated for the heat." IF ... sorry I have to calm down:) If the specialist who made the house connection for you and the wiring of your sockets did NOT use the standardized fuses, then ... I don't know what to do anymore. Again, temperatures are not a problem at all. If a connector is designed for 63A, then it has to withstand it! More than that cannot flow over it. Then the fuse must blow. THAT'S THE EFFING SENSE BEHIND ALL THIS FUN!

@dieSpinnt

Жыл бұрын

@@court2379 If I see you anywhere near an outlet with a screwdriver, I'll smack you so hard you'll understand Ohm's Law and specific electrical resistance in an instant. This is of course meant metaphorically. It is for your own safety that you never mess around with power cords, as you have shown clearly that you lack even the basic understanding of the principles behind it (you got it even wrong ... in the other direction ... the direction that leads to fire and death).

We use induction heating all the time in the Dam's. We use it to braze the jumpers on the core of the stator. It will liquify two pieces of 3/8" copper buss in about 45 seconds.

Thank you. I allocated space in my new shop for one but don't know enough about them yet; your video really answered some of my questions.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. All the very best. Cheers J

Superb video Joshua- unbelievable detail, personally I cannot see anything wrong with your wiring up at all. Very interesting and accurate how you worked out the costings. Total credit / respect to you. 👏👍

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. Your very kind as always Trevor. Cheers J

Just subscribed, what a generous KZreadr. I’m in the area of crafting with scrap metal etc, these videos are fantastic. Anyway, you’re a super gifted artist, please keep making these amazing videos.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. Cheers J

Thanks for the follow up to the other induction furnace video. Nice to see this one works.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Yep this is the one that's worth having. Cheers J

great video and well explained , a bit different from your forge, here in Central Canada a friend of mine has was you would call a breakers business recycling buses and he and his partner have purchased induction coil heaters for the purpose of removing rusted bolts and hardware versus using a torch all the time and these units work the same way and vastly outperform a torch hands down and the amount of time to recycle all the metal and components is getting shorter with each bus they do and much of this work is done outside in our winters minus 15 -25 Celsius is common and their cost for refuelling the torch tanks has dropped by 75%, the initial setup costs were not bad some 50 and 100 foot extension cords 12 gauge and 10 gauge for the bigger wattage units they bought and no major issues as of yet and its been roughly 10 months, he says it beats a torch and you don't have to worry like you would have to set down a torch or relighting it, of course you have to be careful where you'd set down the induction heater of course, our Hydro rates are the cheapest in North America so they save again in this way also , I am going to purchase an automotive sized unit for myself for home automotive use and repairs working on older vehicles, the costs are not bad, 😂

What a brilliant toy for my workshop........always great info / content on your channel Josh....🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. All the very best. Cheers J

Great video! I’m thinking about getting one and you’ve covered a lot of the information I feel I wanted before thinking about it seriously.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Chris. I'm glad it was helpful. Anything else you need to know feel free to ask. Cheers J

Congratulations on your new tool / toy. Hopefully you get great use out of it my friend for many years to come. Very nice and very helpful and definitely useful video explaining and review this tool. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Joshua. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge on. Weld on. Fab on. Keep making. God bless.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for your kindness and support. God bless you too. Cheers J

@SchysCraftCo.

2 жыл бұрын

@@joshuadelisle your very welcome

Just found your videos; firstly, I must thank you for all the time and effort that must be involved. To add something to the current plumbing discussion: Other than as needed to trip the pressure switch inside the induction heater box, your chiller pump does not "need" backpressure in order to work. The flow of any pump will always be at a maximum at zero head/back-pressure. Regarding mounting the heater above the chiller: clearly the pump generates enough pressure to get the water up to the heater, and once the return line is primed all the way back to the tank, this creates a syphon effect which means that effectively the pump will be working at zero head (just provided the return lines dip below the surface of the water in the chiller tank). I don't think you should need to throttle the flow on any of your outlet valves, unless the pressure switch doesn't actuate without this. Thanks again - Subscribed !

@nicktyrrell2515

Жыл бұрын

The other thing I could add would be if you Tee'd all your outlets togther, the combined flow might be enough to purge air bubbles without needing the vent valve ?

Lookig forward to hearing your thoughts on this set up and also as my valued subscribers, enjoy these discount Codes on the VEVOR website: Joshua5 - save £5 off everything Joshua10 - save £10 off over £200

One thing you can do is use bigger tubing or flattened tubing to make your own coils for heating stuff. Just make sure the coils allow water through. Also silver plating the coils makes them work a lot better. That thing has the biggest flyback transformer i have ever seen inside it. Most likely it uses a big IGBT to drive the inductor capacitor tank circuit with it being optimized in current mode. 500 isnt bad for the unit and the cooler. Might want to get a spare IGBT module and capacitor (the big white one) for it.🤓

Wow that's really awesome. I've dreamed of doing something like this with solar panels on a workshop.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Would need a big set up but possible. Cheers J

A great explanation of how to setup and use. An induction forge. Your pump probably needs to be upgraded because of your increased head. However it’s easy to test. Fantastic video.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Larry. Cheers J

Excellent video mate. Very useful for me as I've just stumped up for one. Thanks for sharing.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you. All the very best. Cheers J

Nicely done Joshua! That was very helpful.

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Thank you. Cheers J

Hey, thank you very much for tis video. Your ideas, solutions and insights were amazing. I wish i could post pictures of what you helped me build.

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. Feel free to tag me on Instagram if you have an account. All the very best. Cheers J

Nice demonstration. A few nitpicks/ comments: I wouldn't worry about your breakers being exceeded the ratings for the vast majority of breakers is their 100% duty cycle load. A 40amp breaker should handle 40 amps continuously pretty much forever. They all have a performance/trip curve which specifies how quickly they will trip at a given current. Any device that has a large inductive load will create a huge spike at start-up unless very carefully designed not to with things like soft starters and the like. I suspect that the peak power levels registered are for a few milli seconds. I have a 2.4Kw single phase saw that draws 20 amps at start-up without the soft starter. Big transformer welders and the like can spike to over 100 amps for a fraction of a second on the input. I run a 20amp welder off a 16am breaker and it only trips if I've got the welder absolutely maxxed out for more than a few minutes at a time. You should be fine unless you absolutely stress the system with a continuous maximum load for minutes at a time. Peltier coolers are totally inappropriate for this application, they are nifty solid state devices but they are at best 5% ish efficient so they don't work well for large heat loads. You'd need a proper form of refrigeration system to actually significantly reduce the temps although I'd suggest a proper radiator to replace the alloy tubing as an easier intermediate option. Water, even deionised water is a self ionising solvent. Small amounts oc H2O will dissociate into HO+ and H3O- spontaneously and will pick up metal ions over time. It's probably a good idea to add some form of corrosion inhibitor to the coolant mix to retard galvanic corrosion enabled by the water. Just some things to consider. I love how accessible these decent quality tools have become. Thanks for sharing.

Nice video Josh very in-depth, hope you're keeping well old chap.

Something to consider with water pumps is "head height". The further up the pump has to push the water against gravity the less pressure it will have at the end. If you had the water cooler mounted beside or above the induction unit you would probably find you get better water pressure then you do with it right next to the floor where it is now. As a hobbyist that doesn't get a lot of spare time an induction forge is the dream bit of kit. Being able to go out, switch something on and be forging in under 5 minutes would be amazing. As it is now with coal or gas I have to wait until I know I have a few hours spare before it's even worth it.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you. Yeah the cooler I got says it does 10Lpm and can push that up 10m in height so you would have thought it was enough, it's just enough but a new pump is still cheaper that an different model. Cheers J

@court2379

2 жыл бұрын

You lose about half a psi per foot, so only about 1psi here.

@SHITHITFAN

Жыл бұрын

I do agree that you loose presure when pumping water hightwise, but that actually is not rally the situation in this case. Because this system is a "closed loop system". So the preassure (energy) you lose by pumping the water upp is regained when the water is pouring down again (inside a pipe). If you would meassure the pressure at the top of the circuit and the bottom you would get a higher preassure at the bottom. But it's actually missleading because it's showing you the static preassure. What is important in this case is that the pressure is enought so that the water can get squezed through the thin passages inside the "radiators" in the induction forge. (I think it's called dynamic preassure). I hope you understand how i mean, it would be easier to explain in a drawing...

@paulantony1981

Жыл бұрын

@@joshuadelisle pls put some ferrules on those input cables

The comment about the cooler is useful. I looked up what's needed for circulation for an english marked version of this thing in the US, and it's 7.5 liters per minute at a 98 foot head. The former probably isn't that difficult, but at a 98 foot head (!!), it's not going to a $30 fish tank pump.

Cheers fella this videos ace, inspired me to look into a profession id thought un-viable due to the coal forge requirements, hadn't even considered induction forges. also, the diesel heater video that was really well produced, cheers.

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. Hopefully lots more to come soon. Cheers J

You could add an additional insulated reservoir. Then have your cooler chill the reservoir and get another pump to circulate the chill water. You could increase flow rate that way. If you have the space to add another reservoir

I’d absolutely put an additive in there anyway to avoid any galvanic corrosion. Also, the amount and cost of peltier coolers would be cost and power prohibitive for the amount of heat it’s likely to generate. The heat pump is better. If you want to improve the cooling, you could consider replacing that aluminum coil with a more efficient heat exchanger (radiator, AC condenser, etc) - just be cognizant of pressure drops as they tend to be quite restrictive and may require some testing to meet the low pressure drop of the coil. Or you could deftly add some fins to the coil, if you’re comfortable with the fiddly TIG welding required. Could also add a second water tank on that cart and connect it in series to the other to increase the heat capacity in the system. You could also dump the airlock and look into a swirl pot to remove gases from the system. All good ideas for future projects!

I’ve seen those before and had the chance to use one as well. The best part is the on/off feature. Coal, and even gas, takes time to get going and cool down.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

That's definitely a good benefit. Cheers J

A word on the electrics (from an Ex-Spark) Your house, you can do what you want! As an amateur (on electrics) you did not do too bad a job of it! It is important to realise that this is not what the IEE Regs are about as it it portable equipment so while good working practices of general sparking apply they are not cast iron rules! The existing connection was a death trap and the single best thing you did was to remove it! You should not wire socket up relying on the earth from the metal bodywork, but put a separate green and yellow wire to it! Your main earthing point to the bodywork was good (a proper crimped lug) ..... just use this stud to pick up your earth for your socket! In an ideal situation you would then take your socket from the bottom (load side) of your breaker. This means that if someone switches the breaker off the cooler also goes off. The flip side is that you add your cooler load to your forge load and that might cause tripping. I could not tell what type of breaker you had but it should me a "M" type for magnetic devices (they have a different time / trip curve). You have a lot of bare copper showing on the top of the breaker. Most sparks would make it a point of pride not to have Any copper showing above the clamp of the breaker ... but definitely no insulation under it eather! Many would also use a crimped ferrule. Running your main supply through the socket is not good practice, but I understand why you would want a downward facing gland. Again most sparks would also have a boot over the gland, especially in that environment. When you choose your flex size two things are inportant the Length and the Size. For the length you need to look in a table to work out your volt drop per meter and see if your length of run will cause problems. The Size will give you the current carrying capacity of the flex. You need to make sure you are reading from the correct table as 6mm T+E (house wiring) will have a different capacity from 6mm Flex. In your case I don't think the run length will not be a problem and you should also be OK with 6mm on a 32A breaker. The fact that it is not a constant load will also work in your favour. As I said Not a bad job!

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much this is brilliant information and should help others to do a safer job also. All the very best. You input is much appreciated. Cheers J

The last bit was great and thanks for the safety warning. Good review.

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. Cheers J

FYI, diH2O is functionally identical to distilled (outside of a lab setting) and both with dissolve aluminum and copper over time, and i mean a pretty short time- months to years based on temperature and dissolved oxygen

Excellent comparison of processes at the end.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you. I nearly did bit on how green it is which currently I don't think it is but I need more information on this and could have caused a controversy. Cheers J

Awesome machine, and the price is great too. Hopefully one day I have the workspace to put one in!

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

It's not bad. Good for quick project in the weekends if not able to in the week. Cheers J

As for the Water Cooling Lay out Fit One Way Valve to Feed and Fit the Return Pipes Above the Machine and Down the Sides

Mmmmm.... bangers and mash ! I too have been considering an induction heater for the shop. Lately I've been doing small pieces and far apart so the speed and convenience of a 40 second heat + the lack of fumes, exhaust fans, sweating through a shirt etc. Make these fantastic. Im glad the prices have dropped over the years, tho with the current global political and economic issues, i fear the cost will go up substantially. Great video, as always. Now get the new shop done already ! Hurts my neck to see you bent over.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much Yep all coming together on the other shop. Lots more to come. Cheers J

Great video, to the point and welll presented.

Looks like a great review from a blacksmith's perspective - thankyou.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Mike. Cheers J

The green safety line (I guess) is supposed to be longer than the phase and neutral line so if it gets pulled it goes the last. When you use clamp terminals use cable tubes with a good crimp tool Sorry for the bad English :)

great review sir, this item is well worth buying over propane furnace.

A trained electronics theory man here, this induction heater probably works in the neighborhood of 100KHz which is what causes the iron/steel to heat up. It’s all about the materials reacting to a high frequency magnetic field. That’s what this machine generates through the copper pipe. It’s about the hysteresis loss happening in the work piece. If one had a ferrite material coupling that RF field very close to the workpiece, the hotspot would be smaller.

Very Good Set Up

thanks for the review, it is now on my to get list

@joshuadelisle

10 ай бұрын

Thank you. Cheers J

One of the reasons why I'm considering an induction forge is because it doesn't throw off as much heat as either gas or coal. Though I don't live in an area known for high heat (Rhode Island) we do get stretches of time where the temps are above 27 to 80C (roughly 80 to 85F). Forging at those temps and above can range from not fun to just plain dangerous. An induction forge would allow me to forge during that weather without the added heat risk of a gas or coal forge.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thats a good reason. cheers J

Great analysis and demonstration!

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. Cheers J

Working in a manufacturing facility that has an induction machine and an induction hardener, one of the warning notices advised that it should not be used by someone with a pacemaker. Our units are large so I don't know if a smaller unit would have the same effect. Just thought I would mention this.

Excellent explanation ferry good

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Thank you. Cheers J

Fantastic content as usual ! ATB Dave

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Dave. All the very best with you also. Cheers J

The environmental benefits and future fuel reliability of coke supplies will make these more cost effective nice review Josh 👍

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

I nearly gave my thoughts on the matter and I don't agree that it's a fully green alternative. My reason are the power is fulled by coal fired power anyway and nuclear power isn't sustainable or good for the environment either. That as well as the loss of efficiency through the grid via heat loss in transformers etc. Direct heat through coal in my mind is just as green controversially. I didn't share my thoughts because I simply don't know the figures to really comment. The only alternative source could be a large battery bank and solar panels but there are issues on the sustainability of these systems also because of the rare earth materials and manufacturing methods. Cheers J

Excellent as usual.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you. Cheers J

We use server grade antifreeze for our laser which is relatively cheap and non conductive. This is for the UK as the glass can be damaged below 12'c. I would probably do the same for this.

Amazing for the price. A very interesting review. Just think of all the toxic fumes you will not be inhaling from using this instead of carbon fuels.

While it might sound good in theory, peltier coolers would not be a great idea for this thing. They have terrible efficiency and don't really scale well with massive amounts of heat. Keep in mind that pretty much all of the wattage consumed by one is converted into more heat you need to somehow dissipate from the hot side. They quickly get swamped with the amounts of heat a device like this needs to put up with. Secondly, they just really aren't needed. This device doesn't need to ever be cooled below ambient temperatures (or really even down to ambient). The main goal of the cooler unit is just to keep it (and the coil) from turning into a liquid. A simple radiator and fan is more than capable of doing exactly that, especially at the temp differences you are likely to be seeing. Thermal issues would be better solved by a bigger radiator, fan, or just another cooler unit running in parallel.

@garethbaus5471

Жыл бұрын

Plus misting the coils with water for evaporative cooling would be an even cheaper and more effective way to maximize cooling.

Make sure you don’t have any copper showing when terminating cables into the breaker, also I would use a brass lock ring in the metal clad box. Love your videos 👍

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you. I hadn't got the right size ferrule at the time so I'll put some on those wires soon. Cheers J

With a coiled up magnet and a piece of metal in between, you could constantly produce high amounts of heat.

This is game changer....holy cow you can still heat the steel without being inside of coil

Love it. Is making a shaped custom coil as simple as shaping a piece of copper pipe to what you want? Couple of fittings and you are good? would be cool to see you make a coil that would evenly heat up a long billet all at once.

Breakers trip on a sliding scale the lower the overcurrent the longer they take to trip there are trip curves available online for different types of breakers, some are faster than others.

That is a very interesting and well explained video thank you very much .

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. Cheers J

Amazing video. Great insight into the process.

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Thank you. Cheers J

@richardhazell2601

Жыл бұрын

@Joshua De Lisle you've made me think....do I want an induction forge...yes. Can I afford an induction forge...no. But I NEED one!!!

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

@@richardhazell2601 they are cool and very convenient. But given a choice of all the forge types I would still choose a side blast solid fuel forge. I now use home made charcoal mostly which is free to me less a bit of time. Cheers J

Induction the way to go for smaller parts. You can change and use much much larger coli for induction.

Great video, hope your finger gets better 😀

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Ha ha. Thank you. Cheers J

You can pause on the peltier cooling due to their low capacilty to remove heat. Also, it would not improve system operation.

Hi Joshua,do you think I could use a a/c condenser coil and pump water through the condenser coil and through a induction heater? Cheers Shane

Good review. The 45amps was probably a very short spike that the breakers would be able to tolerate.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Jason. I think you're right. Cheers J

Great video, very informative and covers the things we would really want to know. Thanks. As a future video I would like to see you try a flat coil, and a U shaped coil (a flat coil bent around a bar to form a taco shape. Then you don't have to pass the work thru the hole which could get difficult. Obviously it won't heat the outside edges as well, but my guess is either it won't matter due to just soaking it a bit longer, or you flip the part over and do that side too. Watts and Watt-hrs are not the same thing. It is harder to understand what you are saying when mixing the two. I had to go back and look at the numbers on the meter. Watts is energy flow rate, watt-hr is quantity or volume in a fluid analogy. Just for comparison at the average US electricity prices this runs about 93cents/hour or 1.5 cents/min.. So is much cheaper than any other fuel source except maybe coal.

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Thank you. Can 1kw be euqal to 1kwh if we use 1kw in exactly 1 hour? I've heard people say i'm getting this wrong but I'm not sure how I am?

@court2379

Жыл бұрын

@@joshuadelisle 1KW could be thought of as the energy flow rate (power, the speed you are performing work), so 1KW output continuously for an entire hour is a KWh (the accumulated work done, not the speed it is happening). KWh would be like the amount of liquid in a bucket. KW would be like how fast you are pouring the liquid in. Some examples. A 100W bulb run for 10hours is 1KWh. A 2000W heater uses 1KWh in 30 minutes. Each accumulated the same 1KWh of work done, but the rate at which they did it is 200x different. Hopefully that helps?

Noting the chiller - one needs to realise that most coolers / airconditioners / etc, which we commonly relate to, ultimately exchange to the air (it is air cooling, just using remote methods to "pump the heat"), IF the airflow over the cooling coil disn't adequate, that would be because the case was to restrictiver, (exchanger too small) or the fan not effective enough - ie not passing enough air past the coils. Adding said "peltier device" would work to consume energy and heat the air inside the case more - there would only be a benefit if one were to send (sink) the additional heat to an external exchanger - or a larger "cold sink" - even having a compressor refrigeration system "in the box" may not solve total problems (IF it were the case as may have been expressed early in the video)- unless the heat were pumped elsewhere - there is a reason why refrigerators pump the heat into the room outside the "cold compartment" (mini spit can remove that to the outside easily enough) - and why many (compressor) portable room airconditioners don't make a lot of sense - the heat needs to be sent outside, and they tend to pump a lot of cooled air outside in the process with whatever ducting is supplied (sealing the window is also a hassle...

One cost associated with combustion forges that should be considered when choosing which to use is the health consequence. Combustion byproducts are terrible for your lungs, and over the course of decades even a relatively small reduction in use could save you a small fortune worth of health related costs and extend your quality of life significantly.

Only connect the shielding wire/cable at one end else you will obtain earth loops.

Another excellent video Josh! Really useful info. Thank you! Would be interested to know if there really are any differences in build quality, components, cooling etc. with the more expensive but identical looking units... Be fascinating to seem them side by side with the covers off... Also wondering if there are slightly higher capacity chiller units available that might negate the need to alter pumps/plumbing?

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Matthew. Yes I'm considering taking my to a friends workshop to compare as he paid over a £1k for his and claims it does less amps! All the very best. Cheers J

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Yes there is. Although you'll pay considerably more. A friend of mine got a TIG cooler and is more than enough. A new pump though is £25 and does 130psi at 6lpm. Cheers J

@Matt_S104

2 жыл бұрын

@@joshuadelisle cheers Josh. Was just looking at other units on the vevor site - whilst they apparently have a higher cooling capacity (being actively refrigerated) not clear that the flow rate is any greater - guess you probably noticed that. Swapping out the pump does sound like a good option at that price.

I thought it would cost more to run, thanks for the video.

I heard if you get the coils right, winds, frequency, whatever clever business is in the guts; it's specific to the exact stock you're doing and like a microwave (kinda but not), you can heat from the inside out in seconds (even fat stuff, inch square, more). But this is all really new to me so thank you very much for showing us the guts. If energy production does manage to go green, this has to be the future. We love coke, but we simply can't burn it forever. Same goes for gas, diesel furnace, whatever.

@benjaminzedrine

Жыл бұрын

Oh. Happy solstice. May the light return to you as we recede from it.

@benjaminzedrine

Жыл бұрын

P.P.S. Gold wedding band should be fine.

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Thank you. I think anything that contains rare earth minerals isn't sustainable, I'm not sure how much of the internal parts can be eternally recycled. I use sustainable charcoal sourced from a local coppice that encourages long term bio diversity and growth, but this tool is very convenient and great for certain projects that need a localised heat. All the very best. Cheers J

@benjaminzedrine

Жыл бұрын

Yeah it's always going to be hard to choose "greenest". It's like "least bad" is best. I had not even considered coppicing because my supply is coke and it's an urban environment. But that's a really good idea. Even do the thing where you double back the wood gas to heat the box with the wood in it, I dno if you call that retort or not. But that's like digging up even less fossils. Yeah I'll be locking that in the memory banks. I get distracted easily but I think I can hang on to this.

I'm assuming this is full bridge driven so you can. Actually get above the curie point?

I have absolutely no need for one of these, but it’s still interesting to watch! I see you’re still in the little shed though; what’s happened with the new workshop on the side of the house? Thanks as always for sharing 👍

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you. Other shed has been used for larger projects I haven't shown yet. It's also waiting for the doors and new floor. It's also gotten filed with with junk that I don't know why I keep. Cheers J

How are you holding that metel so close to the red hot end?

The smaller the gap between the plates the better the heating will be.A good example the gap between the plates of a car radiator.For fluids

Lovely thank you.

Great video with lots of information, thanks for giving us a proper introduction! I wonder, does the induction forge work with stainless as well? I kinda remember something like an induction stove wouldn't work with a pan completely made out of stainless but it wouldn't be the first time my brain has fooled me ^^

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Andy. Yes I can confirm it works with stainless and can melt copper and Aluminium too. Very good for soldering with an even heat. Cheers J

@andizell2255

2 жыл бұрын

@@joshuadelisle very interesting! That makes this forge even more variable 😁

@georgiepoulariani8074

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for grate video. Have you tried to melt stainless Steel and cast it in mold?

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

@@georgiepoulariani8074 not yet but will definitely have a go. Cheers J

@georgiepoulariani8074

2 жыл бұрын

Have you tried to melt stainless Steel? Thank you for the quick response

Hi Joshua, great video on the induction forge, I have been thinking about getting one. What do you think about oxy acetylene or Propane on a torch saver, I guess that’s what you call it it’s a valve on the stand but shuts the torch on and off, works excellent for me on small hits. Thanks for all your great information

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Oxy fuel torches are great for bending work and rivets but very costly to rely on all forging operations. Torch savers are great so you don't have to constantly turn on and off the valves. When I made my forged stags and horses I used an oxy-propane set a lot. Oxy acetylene is great for cutting and welding with. Cheers J

Why does it require to be pressurised at all? I'd think that the water temperature is way below boiling, so you don't need to pressurise to increase the boiling point like in a combustion engine.

Hi @Joshua!This is a nice tool !I think it is for fast and special work !Thank you for showing !Greeting #Bulatsschmiede from germany (Bulat the Blacksmith)😊🤙

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you so much Bulat. I enjoy using it. Cheers J

This is a game changer in metal forging... you can reshape the metal so quickly....

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

You're limited to the size coil you choose but yes definitely quick and convenient. I still use my charcoal forge for a lot of stuff just because I can get wider heats and have several irons in the fire so to speak. Short controlled heats this is brilliant. Cheers J

@vukken99

Жыл бұрын

@@joshuadelisle thank you Josh...this video was truly educational...induction is futuristic...

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

@@vukken99 thank you. One of my most recent videos I use it to heat treat a knife. Cheers J

very interesting, thank you sir

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you. Cheers J

Handy. What's the power bill like ?

Not sure how it's rated at 15kW (min 60A@250v) if you only have it on a 32A breaker (8kW@250v). There will be reactive power effects and heat output is related to Amps not Volts in that instance (P=I²R) so watch your power factor. I noticed a PF of 0.8 so that would enable you to get 32/0.8 A reactive current from your 32A breaker or 40A reactive. So still only 2/3 of full 60A needed for 15kW. Interesting situation.

Good video on the product well done, on the cable there normally a reason for 10mm cable you didn’t say how long it can be ? As there will be Voltage drop over a long length recommend max 2m long 10mm on your CCU there was no RCD or MCBO hear again recommend 30mil amp RCD this can be 100Amp format with TT earth Rod as you have a metal man den we don't won't you getting a electric shock do we. Keep up the good work.

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Thank you, I have RCD on the breaker and also on the one from the house. Earth rod is a good idea. cheers J

very professional all round 👊 shame about your finger 😅🤗

I think you’d need a huge quantity of peltier devices to dump that much heat. Peltier effect devices can cool below ambient, which is great, but it can take a long time to get there. For example, most of the peltier drink coolers you can buy have a small device so they take ages to chill.

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Thank you. I may just add a larger radiator with a larger volume of water instead. cheers J

@gf2e

Жыл бұрын

@@joshuadelisle Dump the hot water into your bathtub, and have a water intake on the bottom of the tub. The bottom will be cooler water. That much water will take a lot more heat before the temperature goes up. A big volume of water might be perfect for letting you use the thing for awhile. The duty cycle will be low in the sense that a small radiator will mean it takes awhile to cool down. But, if (for example, this is a guess) it takes an hour to get too hot to keep using safely, and then 24h to cool down, that’s a terrible duty cycle. Except that one hour of use is all you need in a day :) One minute on and 24 minutes off would be really annoying. Same duty cycle as a percentage but the actual time before you have to turn it off matters. A huge volume of water will buy you a long time on. And then you can take a nice hot bath to relax. (I’ve never done this, I’m just thinking of the thermodynamics)

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

@@gf2e I think I will make a cooper coil and dunk it into a bucket of water and just change the water if it's over heating. In the cold months I'll just leave a bucket out side to cool while the other heats up.

@jonbutcher9805

Жыл бұрын

Peltiers I understand are also very inefficient. (As per tech ingredients channel)

@bunnykiller

Жыл бұрын

actually peltier devices are quite inefficient, they create 2 times more heat than they remove...

Could you talk a bit about what the manual says for building your own coil? I tried to find if they had a PDF manual on their website but no such luck. I've thought about buying something like this a few times, but couldn't find any information on coil building. I'd be interested to know if something like a pancake (like you'd see in an induction stove) for heating an area would be viable.

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

So the manual says you can use either 1/4"(6mm) or 8mm but 8mm pipe is best. Must have 1mm wall thickness. Length of pipe must be between 500mm-1500mm. However I believe you'll get different results depending on the resonance of the coil you build, there is very complex science to work it out but most use trial and error. There are lots of videos from other people on the subject of coils. When I build mine I'll do a follow up video on what works for me. Cheers J

what was the punch you used?

Do they have longer and bigger coils

that should pay for its self. you will be able to get projects done faster. all my best simon

@joshuadelisle

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you Simon. Hopefully your right. Cheers J

Hi! The video is very good! it has a lot of information! I also bought such a Vevor heater, but unfortunately the one that was delivered works with cs 30 - 80 Khz. Do you think you can forge and weld with this? The coil that was added is 75mm. Thank you for your answer!

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Hi, yes i've forge welded with mine. you want a coil that matches the material and possibly a better cooler than mine. cheers J

Kilowatts per hour plus VAT on domestic energy is charged at a rate of 5%

Brilliant !

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Thank you. Cheers J

Is it just a really big ZVS circuit?

Was there no tuning? Usually, you can pull more power by tuning the unit. I couldn't tell the architecture very well.

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

You can adjust the amps yes. There is a dial. Cheers J

Thanks for the vid, I've clicked this link to possibly buy one but the link is dead. I've also searched the site but can't find it...

@joshuadelisle

Жыл бұрын

Thank you. I don't think it's available anymore from VEVOR. They only have limited stock of any item. You can still get this machine but it's over £1000 now I think. Cheers J