i redone a 3010 that was in a hedge patch thicket and had to cut it out of there. It sat for 8 years and my neighbor that sold it to me told me the one stipulation was that the tractor had to leave there under it;s own power. Got a set of jumper cables and hand rotated the engine to make sure it was not froze up. And it fired up after about 4 turns. They don;t make them like that any more..LOL...love your videos on the 30 and 40 series repairs

I have seen those weep holes and didn’t know what they were. Neat.

I've really been looking forward to this series- Great info! Thanks

been looking forward to this.. Thanks for sharing Wes...

These are the videos I really like to watch on your channel. A farmer repairing there own equipment. You do a good job. Fun!

Can't wait to see you work on the 4010 engine.

Great video Wes thanks for sharing

Dad used to tell me that he kept his shop a mess because it was harder for people to find the good stuff to steal.... He always knew where everything was at.

measure your other sleeves, you might find one that will fit the bore better. good luck with the rebuild.

@RockinGuy1994

6 жыл бұрын

Douglas Buhr I was thinking the same

When I worked at a Deere dealership and we overhauled those engines we installed a third o-ring, the same as the bottom one in that middle groove. Done many like that never had any issues .

I remember doing an in frame over haul on my 1968 4020 about 5 years ago. It really was easier than I thought it would be.

please never stop doing these vids

I'm getting a taste for Old John Deere tractors thanks to your videos . Priviously I'd considered the Ford 5000 to be the pinicle of well engineered 70s tractors .

@danielaltman9945

6 жыл бұрын

David Watt I have 2 Ford 5000’s and I run then hard. Parts are cheap and they’re very easy to work on.

@jameslandon4126

6 жыл бұрын

And if you'll notice, half of his videos are repairs on John Deere tractors. I'd take the Ford 5000 over any John Deere.

In college they told us to use a drill bit the size of the hole to clean out the weep holes they were put there're to indicate leaking coolant seal so it doesn't get into the crankcase

Our old 3010 had a weeper hole start leaking, dealership told us take a .22 bullet and shove in until we could get it in the shop. Ended up a complete overhaul with going to 3020 pistons and sleeves. Only thing that was never changed was the injector pump. The hp and torque boosted up quite a bit and was noticeable. To be honest, it was money well spent on that old tractor.

good too see somebody rebuilding a 4010. from 1967 on deere quit 10 series overhaul kits. from then on it was 4020 pistons&sleeves they subbed for 10 series

Whatever you decide to do on that cylinder I wonder if you try a different cylinder just on a whim but whatever you do man I'm sure it's going to be alright you know how to work on shit we got faith in you man this is going to be cool as hell to see this thing running and looking good best project ever always a thumbs up 👍👍👍👊👊👊😎😎

Hey Wes,those liners probably vary in size. Check each liner you have in that cylinder, see which one is tightest

One of my neighbor farmers owned 2 tractors. a 38 john deere A and a 56 Alice chalmers WD45 the alice would burn out the valves every other season and the john deere NEVER failed. Take your pick.

Greetings Wes, I love your videos. The recess that the top lip of the cylinder liner fits into is called a "counterbore". It is standard practice to check the depth and diameter of the counterbores whenever a diesel engine with cylinder liners is rebuilt, because counterbores often get out of shape during long engine service. It is common to machine the counterbores to ensure that the top surface is an even depth below the block surface, and then use shims to raise the liner to the required protrusion above the block surface to ensure that the head gasket seals properly. And if the diameter of the counterbores is larger than allowed, or if the counterbore is out of round or has uneven depth, it should be machined and either a larger than standard liner, shims, or block repairs used to ensure that the liner fits into the block according to the manufacturer's specifications. These steps are not very expensive. Putting a liner into an out-of round, overlarge diameter, or overdepth or uneven depth counterbore without proper repair or shimming will lead to the liner slopping around in the block, or lead to insufficient clamping pressure on the head gasket. Premature failure of the head gasket, further damage to the block, and ruining the liner, often results. Playing fast and loose with counterbores is definitely not the way to save time and money on a diesel engine rebuild. Now is the time to deal with the counterbores and ensure that your liners are fitted to the manufacturer's specifications. Just my 2 cents, from having seen the results of shortcuts at this stage.

Very nice video. Nice to see you doing this

I love the 2510!! She's a great little tractor

for cleaning out small holes.. i use one of these Hobart 770086 Welding Oxy-Acetylene Tip Cleaner - its a drill type with individual bits and a tool to hold them.

Your shop is a palace compared to my hole of an office/shop.

Don't worry about the little bit of play I put one of those back together with way more ware on it a few years back (needed a cab less tractor to fit) though it would not last but it has done well over 1000 hours and still perfect. Driving a feed wagon couple of hours a day six months a year bloody cheap option!

Hi Wes .. Love your shows .. could you explain how the numbering system works next time you are referencing the 4010, 5030 etc please .. thanks

Good job I've got a 4010 with 4020 liners.

Cam bearings are typically put in dry. I use a dead blow hammer to prevent "hammering" the bearing. Use a rifle brush to clean the oil passages before installing the cam bearings. Lots of crud can be found in those oil passages even after having the engine hot vated. Good luck!

About you comments about the Grand Parents and two cylinder tractors, they were some valid point behind their belief. In my opinion International was a superior tractor up until about the time John Deere came out with the Late Letter tractors. If you look at the size, bulk and engine displacement of the early and all fuel letter series John Deeres and compare them to Farmalls, Allis Chalmers, Masseys or Olivers. The later letter series in gasoline with the six speed transmission was as good as or better then the comparable Farmalls, but in my experience used a lot more fuel and the John Deere line "jumped" about that time, when they first came out a John Deere B was comparable to a Farmall C, a John Deere A to a Farmall H and a John Deere G to a Farmall M later tractors had the JD "B" more comparable to a H and the A closer to a M and the G was some where between the M and the 9 series wheatland tractors. We farmed with a Farmall Super M, John Deere A (gasoline-late) and a Farmall H, if we had all three tractors in the field the John Deere would use about half of all the fuel we consumed. The 6 speed transmission in the Deere was nicer, the super low first gear worked well when we had really heavy hay and 5th gear in the Deere was a little faster for travel between fields when you're not going out on the road. One of the neighbors that I used to hire out to for hay help was probably about the age of or a little younger than my Grandfather, he farmed with Massey Fergusons at the time but his first tractor was a Case, he'd talk about years before when he and his Brother were farming together, his brother had John Deeres, he said his brother would brag about how he got more done that day, and the neighbor would then say "yep but I can walk to the house like an adult tonight while you're crawling in like a baby" or another one he'd mention he had a John Deere A with a mounted potato harvester " that tractors been gone form this farm for nearly 40 years and it still bothers my shoulder"

I’m not sure Wes but dosent heat make things expand would that take up the slop

The shims are for sleeve protrusion. You have to have the right amount to make the head gasket seal.

Wes when your done rebuilding that engine u wanna rebuild one of ours lol Anyway your shop is clean compared to ours we have 3 tractors 1 skid steer and a chopper in our 40 x60 shop lol Hope the engine turns out well

Case in point it's better to maintain and refurbish as designed rather than f---- with it. Great video.

Thumbs up!

Check the local diesel machine shop. A bit of welding and milling might not be thousands . maybe a couple hundred dollars. And it would save a rebuild job on good engine. I dont know if the liner might rotate even with the new O-rings in place.

@ryanstuckey8677

6 жыл бұрын

when they get loose in the block the piston will rotate them and move them up and down and it eats the block

I've got a 1962 jd 4010 standard it was my grandfather's

hey I subbed while back and turned on notifications

Use a needle grease fitting to put grease in those weep holes to help prevent them from rusting up.

Maybe shim that first cylinder sleeve, it looks like trouble down the road.

I envy you your shop is cleaner than mine

You should do farm tours next summer, charge a hundred bucks to weed out most trolls.

wess use thin brass ..paper thin stuff for shims bud it is soft so when you push it in it will form...grand dad told me years ago that trick..it might help in this case on that one cylinder in the front you were talking to us about.. thank you for your video's :)

How much will this engine overhaul cost ,and roughly which parts are included in that price ?.I just curious to compare it with prices in my country when we do this on our tractors.

In the fall of 1959, John Deere shocked the tractor business when it introduced the huge Model "8010." With a six-cylinder diesel motor purchased by Deere from General Motors, the "8010" produced at least 150 horsepower at the drawbar and could pull eight plows at seven miles per hour. That was three times the number of cylinders in any previous Deere tractor and more than double the horsepower. At more than $30,000, it was also 5½-times more expensive than any previous model, and so probably less than 100 of the "8010/8020" model line sold. But it signaled a new beginning for Deere.

Weep holes somewhat of a brilliant idea. Another indicator that you have a problem before trashing a motor.

twice I have rebuilt engines which had a very slight knock with super fine wet&dry on the crank. worked both times and both have thousands of miles on them since it was done. standard spec bearings were used and those were modern engines with far tighter specs than the stuff your rebuilding. dont worry about it IMO

Looked like a hairline crack in that water jacket. Might try to shuffle those cylinder sleeves and find one with a slightly larger OD. Can't believe someone would send you a box of chocolates... Fun video, thanks.

@TheGhostOfLuciasClay

6 жыл бұрын

Sky King depending who the chocolates came from they maybe laxatives. I hope he knows for sure where they came from

At the very least I think a small bead of high temp locktite on the lip of that #6 cyl liner may save a headache down the road. Taking it to the machine shop would be better. It would bother me to put all the time, effort, and money into it and know that there was something that wasn't 100% right in it even if I knew that it wasn't going to be used hard. I don't like questioning myself if good is good enough. My 2 cents only... Love the Videos, Hope to do a similar project to my Grandpa's Case 730 that I recently inherited.

@chadwilloughby4714

6 жыл бұрын

juztyn00 the head will hold the liner in place if the protrusion is set correctly to prevent it from turning in the block( I'm a heavy duty mechanic)

if building it for a museum piece, use the Loctite sleeve retainer. If your going to run it at all get another block or fix that hole.

I remember a video you did years ago where you proved that those 2 cylinder Deere engines pull more than a 4 cylinder IH. I recall you pulling your hay trailer up a hill with larger and larger loads till the IH lost traction.

@TheGhostOfLuciasClay

6 жыл бұрын

Jamie Curtis a wide frontend would be wise if your doing loader work. I loved the 60 we had with the rol-o-matic narrow front was real nice to plant corn and drill oats. won't ever be able to get that tractor back but I hope to get the 520 we had I think I know who has that one

@hturbo1007

6 жыл бұрын

todd Brewer the two cylinder deer was also about eight hundred pounds heavier. I do a lot of tractor pulling with M's. That super M with out wheel waits is only about 5400 pounds.

We used PC 7 expoxy to take up a little slope and we never had a issue.

Ask Chucke2009s friend Stephen Cox his thoughts on the sleeve play.. He seems like a pretty sharp mechanic..

@chrissargent8398

6 жыл бұрын

robby844 OK, then just ask Stephen Cox..

There is alot of force on those cylinder walls with the piston going up and down even without lugging it down hard. If it were mine I wouldn't put it back together like that regardless of use. I would at least consult a manual or a machine shop on that number 1 cylinder. I could hear it rocking back and forth in the video and would make me nervous.

What Allis Chalmers tractors did you run many years ago?

@maxdamron4020

6 жыл бұрын

Love2boat92 a 7045 d17 and a wd45 from what he told me

@Lanninglongarmmowing

6 жыл бұрын

Max Damron That's really cool. I actually have a d17.

Looks like fun, does your napa shop do engine work, research that first cylinder a bit more. That stinks there is play.

On a 71 se.detroit liners in a 6 cy kit one of the liners will be titer thin some one will fit better sow may be one will work better in that holl just hope for it would do like you and go with it

like u said use the green Loctite bearing retainer should do the trick for your light use

Hell it will be fine

Shim that number 6 cylinder out to the max and forget the lock tite. Get that liner out to the max protrusion and when you put the head on and torqued in place it will hold that liner tight and in place.

Proper name for your borescope is endoscope. Much used for medical examination and treatment.

Sound worried about that slop. If it's going to fail, it'll be at the worst possible time. Be interesting to watch a video on how it gets fixed. Good luck.

I had a liquid cooled 2 stroke atv and when the cylinder would heat up the sleeve would start moving up and down and destroy the head gasket! I replaced 4 head gaskets until the sleeve finally spun and the engine would no longer run. That is how I found the problem.

you want to see a messy shop look at mine LOL

I've had some bosses that could disprove that "places you can't fit your head" comment about that colon-cam... lol

👍

Can you PEEN/Knurl that cylinder block piston liner hole like you do to expand a piston skirt?

Reminds me of the early 80 camaro with the 4 cyl eng. Ex had one when we met. Always had this slight tapping noise. Finally had an ex-GM Factory mechanic listen to it. Seems they had cylinder liners and the font one historically came loose. caused the liner to tap the bottom of the head. Car had 82k on it, so it didnt seems to cause issues with it but you couldn't get squat for trade-in or resale.. GM could have made a better design. But then again, when you live thru GM's diesel fiasco, ya pretty much get used to it. LoL

Have a look at the shop at Jpaydirt - he is changing the turbo on a CAT engine

I was thinking on the 8010s and 20 they used the Detroits

@farmerben9754

6 жыл бұрын

regularfarming they did have detroits

Before you check your protrusion of the liner you should use a bolt and washer to insure it's at the correct height sir ( journey men diesel mechanic) and I can spell that's why I turn wrenches lol

I would put some high temp loctite on that slightly loose liner to make sure it does not wiggle.

Good luck on the rebuild. I agree with the other reply. Try all 6 sleeves in that cylinder, just maybe one of them will fit tighter.

Caterpillar, shims are required, in context.

your going to do what you want, think though it would be prudent to send out that block to a GOOD machine shop .., That cylinder your concerned with ,,the sleeve has too much slop in the fit.

It's a bore scope

chemical metal for the win Wes that will hold them liners.

Wes, advise you talk to a Diesel mechanic preferable with JD time before starting to assemble this engine, you have the ability but you do not have the knowledge. You are not paying for the labour so do the job right and do it once. Parts are made to a tolerance so you can use that tolerance deviation to get the best fit between the parts. Liner protrusion is more criticel then the liner fit in the block even for a tractor that wont be working. Cheers mate 🍻

@TheGhostOfLuciasClay

6 жыл бұрын

Michael Brown what do you mean before assembling this engine? you do realize this is not live he had the liners in 3-4 day ago. he has the pistons ringed and ready to put in also. by today I bet he has the head on and maybe has engine mounted back on tractor. what everyone sees is whats already done and most times days ago.

@michaelbrown8545

6 жыл бұрын

madfarmer912 dave oh well hopefully the advice helps someone else then, might even help Wes in a year or two when the liners crack or the head gasget leaks😎 of course it will last for years if it just sits in the corner of his shed. Cheers mate🍻

Oh shit I tap threads on one of those suckers temporarily and when overhauled yes the liner drop some but nothing major

No one ever went back later saying "I wish I hadnt had the block machined". In the big picture its short change.

You always seem to know what you’re talking about but that sounds like a lot of play for anything in an engine

No benefit to have the weep holes! actually it could cause more problems as you stated if water gets in there and freezes could cause damage to the block or the cylinder seating. If you have a leakage of your seals you'll know about it in the water or the oil that there's a problem?

@storminnormanz

6 жыл бұрын

i get what your saying but a piece of ice the size of a pencil led in those holes cant expand and do damage

@TheGhostOfLuciasClay

6 жыл бұрын

John sweda I'm sure those holes have a slight downward slope to drain so no water will get in to freeze

when its hot it will proberly exspand

I think you wanted to say 1st John Deere with more then 2 cylinder

Sorry about that

Its pretty impressive to be able to rebuild an engine like that not being a trained tech or doing it for a living.

@geedubb2005

6 жыл бұрын

A micrometer and dial indicator is helpful though

maybe you could loktite some old feeler guage strips in there if its not gonna be worked real hard.

Wes I'd at least get that gel your talking about for that cylinder or else you know its gonna bug the shit out of you at night if you don't.

Did John Deere ever have a tractor with a v8?

@ISXCUMMINS565

6 жыл бұрын

roadwolf2 .. Yep they Shure did. Some had Detroits, 903 Cummins and 3208 cats in them.

@Nate-fs3no

6 жыл бұрын

8850. Deere designed v8. Four wheel drives had Cummins i6. No cats.

@ISXCUMMINS565

6 жыл бұрын

Nate78 21 ... Check out: "lance little and his 5020" by Ernist Bontrager. They must have bin repower I saw some v8 Cummins 903 and v8 cats with 3208 and some others.

correction............ deere has always been out to copy a competitor. sorry wes, but it seems to be deeres thing. lol. dont hate me, please

@geedubb2005

6 жыл бұрын

Deere sued harvester and damn near broke them. Went all the way to Supreme Court. Deere got paid!

@KStewart-th4sk

6 жыл бұрын

+Central Iowa Farmer Really, I guess that is why JD is one of the major manufacturers left while other's have joined together because they weren't making it on their own. Their ability to innovate is EXACTLY why they are still in business--- ON THEIR OWN!

955 when?

I wouldn't suggest closing up weepholes

Hey Wes, could you have someone knurl that sleeve? That would take out some of that slop.

J B Weld will fix any slop :) :) :)

@festus51

6 жыл бұрын

My thoughts exactly. I once JB welded an exhaust pipe in a manifold on 856 IH. Lasted years till I traded it off.

@piewolfe

6 жыл бұрын

If you fan Propane flame over the weld it makes the bond stronger and gives smooth shiny finish.

Be leave it or not. A small smear of J B WELD will take up slop. I have fixed cracked exhaust manifolds and wallowed out dampener pulleys permanently

my shop is a mess also, im sure as fuck clean it up before i let let the whole god dam world s see it

Don't give us this B. S. you know what you gota do so do it, we may not see it but I bet it gets done.

LOCTITE!!!! Let trolls growl

#2

Green lock tight sleeve retainer.

#1 USA