38.DIY Boat Building: More Sanding Needed SHOCKER!
Description: 🚨Attention KZread viewers!🚨 Join me in my backyard as I build a boat from scratch using SaltBoatworks.com plans. No experience? No problem! Watch as I transform into a boat-building expert with my own hands. 🛶🏠
From cutting the pieces to gluing them together, I'll show you every step of this exciting DIY fiberglass boat-building process. You won't want to miss a single moment of this thrilling adventure! 🌟
Follow along and learn how to scarify, epoxy, and use traditional boatbuilding techniques to create a one-of-a-kind wooden boat. This is a complex plywood project that will have you hooked from start to finish! 💪
Subscribe and hit the notification bell to stay updated on this incredible DIY boat-building project. Trust me, you won't want to miss a single video! 🎥
#DIY #FiberglassBoat #BackyardAdventure #BoatBuilding #SaltBoatworks #FRS18 #FRS18Flats #PlywoodBoatBuilding #DiyBoatbuilding #Boatbuilding #Plywood #PlywoodBoat #FiberglassBoat #Fiberglassepoxy
When we get to 1000 subscribers, we are giving away a set of plans. More information to come.
Products I have used:
Paint & Prep:
Total Boat TotalFair: amzn.to/4bJWJ0U
32 Oz. Mixing Cups: amzn.to/3I5SUFw
20 Oz. Mixing Cups: amzn.to/3SM6lzE
10 Oz. Mixing Cups: amzn.to/3I6IcP9
Foam Paint Roller Kit: amzn.to/3T45k7k
Sanding Pads (Soft Density): amzn.to/3UK346x
Dura Block Sanding Block: amzn.to/3UMnDiw
Dura Gold 80 Grit Roll Sandpaper (Adhesive Back) amzn.to/3UK3BW5
Total Bilge Paint: amzn.to/3I5Xy6H
3M Respirator: amzn.to/49GBcEC
Dura Gold 5" RO Sanding Pads (Hook and Loop): amzn.to/49CVtvf
Nitrile Gloves (textured): amzn.to/49oXJ90
Red Tree Mini-Mohair Rollers: amzn.to/3IsfQ2h
Squeeze Bottle for Denatured Alcohol: amzn.to/3OMpP5J
Dura Gold Tack Cloths: amzn.to/3OS0PKm
16" Paint Roller Red Tree: amzn.to/3OMq8xp
4" Roller Paint Liner Trays: amzn.to/49mWlE1
4.5" Grinder Sanding Discs: amzn.to/3SNiXX5
Replacement Dust Cartridges for Respirator: amzn.to/49D72So
Dura Gold Guide Coat Powder: amzn.to/48rWsgj
Fiberglass Tools:
Plastic Putty Scrapers: amzn.to/4bORz3R
Fin Rollers: amzn.to/48yh0E0
2" Chip Brushes: amzn.to/49D584c
Denatured Alcohol: amzn.to/3OTsJWt
Plastic Scrapers for making Fillet Tools: amzn.to/3uKDUtN
Small Epoxy Mixers: amzn.to/3UPF3uS
Heavy Duty Zip Ties: amzn.to/3I7ZNGx
Power Tools:
File Sander: amzn.to/3UNk8Zm
Bosch 12V Drill: amzn.to/4bWCywW
Wen Plunge Router: amzn.to/3wqHDxa
Bosch Random Orbital Sander: amzn.to/3SP6DFF
Tool Accessories:
Stanley #4 Hand Plane: amzn.to/42PDDCp
Hole Saw Kit: amzn.to/49JQqsg
Aluminum Radius Templates: amzn.to/3uFEs4c
Rabbet Router Bit Set: amzn.to/49Lq2OX
Small Filleting Tools (Cake Set): amzn.to/3I9UMNQ
Shop-Vac Dust Bags (16 Gallon): amzn.to/3SPKEOY
Forstner Drill Bit Set: amzn.to/4bHEkBL
Boat Fitting & Components:
Garboard Drain Plug: amzn.to/49kc0Eb
Bow & Stern Eyes: amzn.to/49sc3h5
Stainless Pop-Up Cleats: amzn.to/49ICMWl
Lenco Trim Tabs: amzn.to/42PDXkB
T-H Marine MIcro Jack Płate: amzn.to/48rttJw
1.5" Attwood Thru-Hull Fittings: amzn.to/49zVsry
Groco Thru-Hull Strainer: amzn.to/3UPEyku
White LED Cockpit Lights: amzn.to/3uGJldf
LED Livewell Lights: amzn.to/3UHywSS
Moeller Marine Fuel Tank Brackets: amzn.to/3UHyAC6
Red LED Cockpit Lights: amzn.to/42PKvzB
27 Gallon Moeller Marine Fuel Tank: amzn.to/3SFlNxa
Deck Drains (90 degree - 1.5" Stainless): amzn.to/3I8rn6p
Shelter & Work Space:
Advance Outdoors Tent: a.co/d/3E3KgZ4
LED Tent Lights: amzn.to/3I5SoY6
Power Strip & Charing Station: amzn.to/3uGkLZY
Tarp Grabber Clips: amzn.to/3UP19h8
Video Equipment Used:
GoPro Hero 8 Camera: amzn.to/49HFStP
External Hard Drive 5TB: amzn.to/3OTyhAl
Topics we hope to cover: DIY boatbuilding, Homemade boat, Boatbuilding, Plywood boatbuilding, Stitch and glue boatbuilding, Wooden boatbuilding, Boatbuilding techniques, Boatbuilding plans, Boatbuilding materials
Boatbuilding tools, Boatbuilding tips, Boatbuilding projects, Boatbuilding for beginners, Boatbuilding videos, Boatbuilding community, Boatbuilding forums, Boatbuilding blogs, Boatbuilding courses, Boatbuilding books, Boatbuilding supplies
Follow along by subscribing to @Bigeaux20
Пікірлер: 61
This is not monotonous at all. Thanks so much for a truthful series.
@Bigeaux20
3 ай бұрын
It’s not all glamorous and thrilling. The process is the process. Appreciate you checking it out.
Watching somebody who doesn't know what they're doing figure out what to be doing is what I'm here for. I'm sure it's frustrating, but it really is a help to share the misteps and indecision.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Thanks. I needed that. I had a lot of indecision of posting my frustrations, but I said I would show everything and the whole process. I hope I come out the other side at some point. I feel like it's getting closer each bite. Appreciate the support, seriously!
Great plan! Those texture spots was what I was chasing on my build also. I finally gave up, finish primed, sanded with 220 and painted the topside paint. The paint actually filled in all the little pin holes and textures. As long as you smoothen out all the low spots, you are good to go. I am not saying you should stop at this point. I am just giving you my experience with fighting to rid those texture areas. Also Remember to tape off and sand off the primer when you add the strakes so you can get a good mechanical bond to the epoxy surface. I used the same totalfair to put a fillet around the strakes. Sand smooth and roll on high build primer. Sand off and check for texture. Fill, sand and final coat of primer. Then paint the whole damn thing and be done with it!
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
I am here for the "be done with it part". Roger on the strake process. Once I get the bottom ready for finish primer, I will have them ready to bond in. I'm willing to bet that my past struggles will lend me to have everything as smooth as possible before I get to the sanding part, so that the damn sanding part, isn't the same as this sanding part.
Your doing an awesome job. It's really looking good.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
One step at a time... Appreciate it.
the good old car filler primer fixes this texture problems :) now your boat is so well finis you could actually take a mold of your boat.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Ehhhhh, I don't know if it's that good. There are some things to it I can still see, and it has the earmarks of a first time project so while I appreciate the mold talk, it's not that level. And I'm not just giving you false humility. It will be nice, but it has some character as well. Maybe all that goes away when I get topcoat on it, but right now I still know of stuff. The fairing compound worked well for the texture. I'll get that video up before long.
looking really good matey
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Better than it did, and hopefully a step closer to what it’s capable of looking like in the end. Appreciate you checking it out.
Did anyone advise to use glazing putty on those little pin hole and orange peel areas instead of the filler? It is used for this stag of finishing and is thin enough to get into all those fine holes and won't sand off leaving the holes but a smooth surface ready for paint. I'm just like you, DIY person. I have not yet built my boat but researched a lot and watched a lot of people in their process. When in doubt, Andy from boatworks today is always a go to for help
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Appreciate the idea of glazing putty. Hadn't considered that and here's why. I am super cautious about crossing products. Up to this point, everything I have used has been epoxy based, and that's my rationale for using fairing compound to smooth the texture. I have followed Andy's projects, and I refer back to his series with the sailboat a lot in trying to move my deal forward. That's kind of why I feel like when I get to finish primer I will have a good base moving forward. He's the reason I am using all the Alexseal products. But, like I have said in my videos, those guys have it figured out, and the nuances of getting from A to Z. I'm in like Sigma or Delta of some latin alphabet. Thanks for the tip. I promise I will look into the putty option. There is still time.
Very nice and awesome work
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Thanks again!
Hi Oscar I was thinking, you said you want to put a very thin layer of fairing compound over the shallow areas. What if you just roll those low area with the white primer/paint that you’re using? It will build up a little and I believe it’ll be easier to sand. Just thought. Anyway, thank you for showing what it really takes to build a boat, and not use all the editing others do. That’s gonna be the smoothest boat on the water. Good luck, and watch the heat.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
I doubt it will be the smoothest on the water as I am respectful of all the folks that do this for a living that make some impressive boats, but for a guy who has never done this from the start, it will be the best one I have ever done for certain. Covering the textured areas with another coat of high build isn't really something. I have thought about, but it's a solid idea. May have to ponder on that a while. Appreciate the thought.
Love watching the full process not a lot of videos showing the entire process they normally edited to snippets. This is very helpful for those who looking into trying a build because I think so many people don’t understand how much hard work goes into a boat build. Ps it looking better every video your definitely putting your heart and soul into this build most would have top coated and be done with it. But your going for perfection. Nice. True craftsmanship.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Thanks dude. Sometimes it feels more like Crapsmanship.
@cockneypatriot9042
Жыл бұрын
@@Bigeaux20 I’m taking my 24ft out this coming weekend hopefully I have sorted my engine issues by skimming the head re seating valves polished ported the intake and exhaust carb rebuild I’m hoping she is going too be reliable for a couple of years If it goes too plan this trip out then the fallowing week I’m taking off in boat down too my private land and anchor up on my beach and enjoy a week away camping fishing fucking about on quad bikes throw a little beach party and bbq with a decent sound system. Got too enjoy this hot weather in Uk. We don’t get much. Lol.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Enjoy yourself. Be safe. And don’t once think about the poor pitiful folks sweating to the 80’s sanding like madmen while you are out enjoying yourself. I promise to reciprocate and not think about you once I am enjoying using this pig.
Very nice and awesome work bro
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Thanks ✌️
Maybe try tipping the next coat of high build as you put on with roller then gently brush out the texture with a quality soft long haired paint brush. This should help the orange peel.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Yeah I hope there isn't another round of big build. I think I just need to finesse this to finish primer. That should be much thinner than the high build and will probably lay down much, much better. 95% of the orange peel is gone, but it's just those little rough spots I want to deal with, and at the same time learn my lessons on the bottom, before I get to the areas that will be seen all the time. That's the basic approach here as well. As always thanks dude.
You still winning with your cool flats boat? Im just checking in as a friend 😎.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Been a few fun distractions doing some fishing during this hot part of the year, but I expect to get back on it for another push to get it finished here shortly. All good. Thanks for following along.
I'm sure you may have seen some women doing "anger vacuuming". They're really mad at you for something and they aren't speaking to about it, but they come in with the loud vacuum and a real determined look on their face while shoving the vacuum back and forth at twice the usual speed, clacking it against the couch where you're sitting and the table legs where you have your feet up. Well here's the plan- get your wife real mad (tell her she always does the eggs wrong). Do this next to the boat and then hand her the sanding board (make sure the sandpaper's already stuck to it!) and get well back from there! Then go in the house, pour yourself a cold grape juice and relax.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
There is less than a zero chance of my wife sanding on this hull and that's as certain as gravity, taxes, and death. Maybe not in that order. But, I'm not saying she may not be capable of angry vacuuming. I'm fairly certain I have witnessed that.
Oscar, I give you credit for sticking to it & your eye for detail is amazing. You might be too hard on yourself and/or need a different way to approach it. It gets to a point where it’s good enough. I see BoatWorksToday only using guide coat on the last coat of primer right before paint. The guide coat is meant to show imperfections yes, but he is sanding the orange peel out when he sands off the guide coat. He is also using a 6” random orbital sander. As long as you keep the sander moving you should be ok. All the fairing & shaping has been done w/ a long board before this stage. BoatWorksToday has a video on which grits to use at what stages. He uses 150 grit right before primer, 150 grit in between coats of primer & 320 grit on the final primer coat before paint. Another KZreadr to checkout is Frankie Bushong. In the video “How to prep, prime, prep, paint part 4 (DIY) from 3 years ago he shows how to remove orange peel. Frankie Bushong doesn’t use guide coat. He only uses gray primer. He explains his reasoning in the video. He first sands the entire area w/ a pneumatic random orbital sander w/ 220 grit. Then he hits it again w/ 320 grit to remove the orange peel. He shows this near the beginning of that video. It’s worth a look. I enjoy your videos & congratulations on growing it.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the heads up. I will check out the channel you refer to for certain. Couple issues from what you pointed out. I am only wanting to stick with the longboard through this high build step because I want it to be a smooth and fair as possible. The high build I think goes on thick enough that I could put some waves in the finish sanding it back. I use the longboard because I'd less apt to get myself into other avenues of trouble. At least I think so anyway. Once I feel comfortable and put on finish primer, I am going to move onto a RO. As for sandpaper, some of that is limited by the paint specs. For example, the finish primer requires to go onto a range from 100-150. So, that is why I have gone from 80 I used on the initial fairing compound to 120 on this high build/fairing. Once I get the finish primer on and I break out a random orbital, I will go up to 220 then 320, as the top coat is spec'd to go onto nothing finer than 320. I intend to use 400 between coats of topcoat conceptually. One step at a time right now. How does that sound? Thanks for checking it out and I appreciate the comments to help steer me. Stick around and help me as we go.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
I just watched all of the series Frankie did on the videos and if nothing else it kind of lets me know I am on the right track. He’s not doing anything drastically different than I have done, he is only more proficient about transitioning from step to step. Now you comments make a lot more sense to me. If there weren’t such large swaths of texture, the acrylic filler he uses on the pin holes would make sense. I have such large areas that I am now more inclined to go back to sanding it all back more as opposed to attempting to fill it to the current surface. No matter, I feel pretty strong about my path forward. Thanks for the tips.
With filler putting to much pressure trying to getting it as thin a coat as possible, will pull your filler back out. It's a fine line between pressure and coverage.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Certainly this is something I have learned. As with the entire process the lessons along the way can sometimes only be learned by doing. And honestly that's what this whole project is about. Learning along the way. Appreciate it.
You planning on using any protective paint on the bottom. I have been looking at wetlander bottom paint. It’s common used on airboats and is super slick and tough. It has a slight texture and would save you on prep and be tougher than paint.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
No I don’t plan on putting any bottom paint on it as the boat will be primarily kept on the trailer. As I have said in other areas, I am also using this bottom job as a wine to fine tune my skills and learn as much as I can so I can make the areas of the boat that will be more visible on a daily basis better, so I’m motivated in that way to see it through. Certainly a good consideration if that wasn’t my motivation. Thanks for the question. Appreciate it.
The pic comparison you show from last high build to this round shows the progress. You’ve almost got it!!!! Great job. What grit paper are you now using?
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
It’s certainly closer for sure, but I’m not sure closer to what. One bite at a time and we will get there. The comparative images are motivational for me, so that’s why I thought it was important to share them like that. It may seem like I am spinning my wheels but with as much footage as I have of the process, it’s good to go back and learn lessons about the situations. Appreciate it.
I understand why you’re trying to keep like w/ like. Someone commented about using a glazing putty. Just wanted to point out that KZreadr Frankie Bushong uses 3M Acryl Glazing Putty to fill in pinholes AFTER coats of Awlgrip 545 epoxy primer. Backyard Boatworks in S FL does the same. I asked them if they’ve ever had a problem using the 3M Acryl Glazing Putty on top of an epoxy product & then using a polyurethane urethane topcoat over the the glazing putty. They said they have had no problems.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Really good info, and I appreciate it. I’m going to look into it and see if that’s a tool to put in the bag going forward. You bring another point about sanding down the orange peel. That’s also what led me to my angry sanding episode. It was the thought that I haven’t hit glass, why not just keep sanding it back until all the texture is gone. That was something I am still slightly considering by the way, but I worried that was going back too far. I know there is a layer of fairing underneath all the high build. I’m still thinking on it a bit, but I’m inclined to move the ball forward by skimming it, and getting it ready for finish primer. What would you do?
@captmiker7423
Жыл бұрын
@@Bigeaux20 It’s cool you’re open to comments & respond. Please don’t take anything as criticism. You do what you’re comfortable with. If you’ve filled all the lows you can feel by hand & are satisfied, I was thinking why not try sanding the orange peel out by sanding the entire hull more (including the orange peel spots). Use a R/O & keep it moving so you don’t create any low spots. If you hit glass you hit glass. You are still planning on using Alexseal Finish Primer 442 before topcoat anyway. Or don’t even worry about the orange peel now until the last coat of primer right before topcoat. Try to remove that w/ 320 like in the videos we discussed. Take care of the noticeable lows now w/ fairing compound & then prime the heck out of it so when you do sand you have enough primer built up to sand back too. As far as using Alexseal products from primer through topcoat….I believe you could still try the 3M Acryl Glazing Putty at this stage for the orange peel because won’t you still be going on top of that w/ Alexseal 442 Primer? Consistent product line primer to topcoat is what BWT said. In your case 442 finish primer through topcoat would all be Alexseal. 442 epoxy primer should stick on top of the acryl glazing putty. Epoxy sticks on almost anything. Just suggestions. Plenty of ways to skin a cat. You do what makes you happy & we’ll keep watching.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
@captmiker7423 I enjoy the comments and feel entitled to respond to constructive thoughts. I get plenty of criticism, and that’s from those who think I know what the heck I’m doing. It’s easy to criticize someone. Ironically, the ones who know the most about how to do all these things, are the most gracious and helpful. Their willingness to help is awesome. I have thought about just sanding back the high build a little further to get rid of the orange peel, but I am concerned about compromising the overall shape or smoothness of the hull by sanding more in one place than another. That will leave an imperfection. If I go that route, I will use a longboard to mitigate the chances of that happening. I think I am just going to use fairing compound to glaze it just based on the volume of product I think it will take and the fact I have it. I will be sealing with 442 primer, so yes I’m good on most fronts that the hull will be properly sealed, as long as I don’t sand through finish primer (yeah I’m already worried about that). I plan to more to a RO sander once I put the first coat of 442 down which hopefully is very very soon I think. Once again, I am going to focus now on finishing the bottom so whatever I do and learn I can apply to the sides when that time comes, but my plan is to finish primer it all now so one step at a time wins the race. Keep it coming. Really good stuff, and I have already watched a bunch of Frankie’s stuff. Good stuff.
P.S. - Use 3M Acryl Putty for a quick end to 90% of the blemish problems you have left.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Seriously looking into using this going forward. I'm kind of behind on videos, but this may be useful as I go forward. Thanks for all your tips and thoughts. Seriously!
How did you make so much progress with LSU baseball on every night? Great job. Can’t wait to see that ethereal blue go on.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Haaaa, you know I was watching. I put a lot of days in and it takes me a while to put videos together sometimes. Especially if it's long repetitive stuff like sanding. There is probably 4 days of working 3-4 hours a day into that one 30 minute video. No-one wants to watch 4 hours of sanding. Hell I don't want to do 4 hours of sanding. I'm hoping it won't be long before that blue goes on, but if I get it on and I have dog crap, I'm going to be even more disappointed. I already know I have some issues that I can't make perfect. May cover those in the days to come. I hope you and your dad have a better path than I have had through this part.
Hi Oscar just wanted to say you have made so much progress on your boat and love watching your channel even through your ads lol. Check out Dan lee boatbuilding healey boat restoration part 6.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
I did watch that video and it’s a good reference to draw from. I’m still a little stuck, but I will get through it or over it, or around it some way. Appreciate the video tip. Good stuff.
If LA DMV is not cooperating rumor has it that Maine is a willing jurisdiction for registering a boat trailer…
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Brother if you have ever heard anything about Louisiana politics, you know that public offices are all about getting that dollar. It’s going to be a goat roping, but Im prepared mentally going in I hope. Probably be the same when it comes time to register a homemade boat. Don’t think I haven’t thought about registering it in another state. I may just give it to my father for that purpose. But, I’m at least going to try and do it the right way. Give unto Caesar what is Caesar’s and unto God what is God’s!
Looking Good, same procedure as Auto body Repair/ painting...Use of the Guide coat is a must if You want it flat and smooth...It is probably already been asked..but what is the options on a finish gelcoat vs Paint? Thanks for sharing the vid!!
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Could probably use a finish gel coat instead of paint, but I don't know if the prep side I am working through now would change that much. I feel pretty confident in the paint products I am using and they are top of the line I "think" when compared to gelcoats, or other options. At least from the research I have done.
Wow the chines look way better. Overall great job. It’d be a awesome boat for here in Hawaii, where did you get the plans?
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Thanks. Plans are available from Saltboatworks.com. I am building the FRS-18 hull.
Is it possible to thin your fairing compound? If it is to thick and sticky as you try and pull it really thin it just ends up getting pulled out of the pin holes and little dimples and you end up running yourself around in circles and end up getting frustrated and burned out. In the auto body world the make a finishing filler that can be pulled very thin you run you spreader across and it leaves little colored spots where it is down in the the lows but is wiped off of the high areas. There is the possibility that it can shrink and you have to redo it a couple of times. (I don’t know if is compatible with your other products or not look at labels for similar chemical content) . Or you could put multiple layers of high build on and sanding between them till you get where you want it to be ( use the high build just in your lows and the texture area and sand it back till it is as smooth as you want it to be). You can spot prime the sections that need as often as needed to save your knees and sanity. I admire your work ethic and attention to detail and am confidant that if anyone can do this level of finish it will be you (please no bonfire I would like to see it done!)
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Lots of good feedback and I appreciate it. If it weren’t for the large swaths I may look towards a glaze putty if my research in compatibility eases my concerns, but i have no reason right now to think it’s not possible. But, I’m hoping that I can keep the fairing compound cool enough that it stays thin to fill the surface. This is precisely why I am looking to do a section as a trial as opposed to picking a strategy and doing the whole boat. This way if I screw up, it won’t be as much to go back and redo. Don’t mind that bonfire talk. It’s all hot air. I am having too much fun in all the moment beyond the frustrating ones. Anything worth doing is going to have it’s lumps. The hard roads are the ones worth taking.
@dougstarkey7128
Жыл бұрын
@@Bigeaux20 if any one can do it its the sand man [ i wasnt the least bit worried about the bonfire you are much to stubborn and hard headed to let something so small knock you off course very long] My fatherinlaw used to laugh at me doing body work because he could not understand that you put the filler on and sand it off put on more and sand it off all to develope the shape or lines that you need and then he would be amazed at it once done, he could not see the fixed part. keep up the good fight we are on your side and many thanks for going the extra distance by makeing the videos and postin them we will continue to eagerly watch to see the next step.
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Appreciate it. I think it would be totally different if I knew what the heck I was doing to be able to massage one step to make the next three better. But, every step is teaching us something we can use as we go forward. I’ll keep plugging away.
Very nice and awesome work
@Bigeaux20
Жыл бұрын
Thanks again!