I’ve owned probably only 15 bows of nearly brand except Hoyt. I can remember one bow I ended up swapping limbs around to get a bullet hole. I set up with everything through the center line of the bow, depending on the cam offset compared to the riser. Bullet hole results are no problem. Very minute arrow rest adjustment is nearly always the answer. Shooting form is paramount to achieving a bullet hole.

I had multiple issues with mods on my Omnia. Both rubbing on the upper cam causing creaking and the rattling you referred to. They replaced two sets of mods before I gave up and went to the SS34 and on to cable wear issues. Rough year it was. Have to say I really enjoyed shooting both bows. Glad to see they got rid of the issue.

Thanks for the most honest reviews out there . 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

When we could expect to see a new PSE Lazer video? Thank you and greetings from Germany!

I think 65 lb bows are an amazing idea... especially for target shooters that shoot all disciplines. I shoot 3d and would absolutely run my bows at 65 lbs... and when shooting world archery with 60lb maximum, I would crank it down to 59.... I would need 2 different bows to do hit those poundages with most other companies.... Infact I have 2 mathews TRX's ... a 36 and 38g2 ... and I just picked up 70 lb limbs so I can shoot it at 65 lbs for 3d... and my 38 is my main paper puncher at 59.5 lbs.. ..... a 65 lb elite verdict would cover all the bases for target very well... or for people that hunt they can crank it up to 65, then crank it down to 59 to shoot target. Being at the bottom of a limb poundage never feels as good. I always want to shoot the limbs at halfway minimum...example... 70lb limbs- I would prefer to not shoot them below 64-65 .... and 60 lb limbs I would prefer them at 54-55 or higher. Also in regards to tuning... I will first say that mathews are fairly easy to tune. Their top hat system is the same for every bow. They can be changed with the bow in the press. Ive done it many times with zero issues... If you know the common movements to get the results you need, it goes pretty quick... mind you if I was a bow shop, I would get frustrated doing it on everyones bows.... so I do understand... but a well tuned bow is noticeable to an experienced archer... and everyone has slightly different grips and pressure points, so every person will have their own specific tune that works best... I can pick up my friends bow that is tuned perfect for him and then I shoot a massive tear. He picks up mine and same thing.... So, for anyone that cares, the tuning basics people need to remember are : First thing I always do is time the cams perfectly ... I first put in the peep as it effects string length... from there I make the cams hit dead even (for binary cams), and if you are fighting with half twists and cannot get it to hit the draw stops perfectly even (and do not have conquest cam timing spacers).. then I usually prefer the top to hit first. After this I usually tie in my nocking point. On binary cams I usually find 1/16th above dead center of the string is always decent... everyone has their preferences here. You can run through center of berger hole if you want, or top half of berger hole... do what you gotta do. Next thing, Set your center shot FIRST at 13/16" for most manufacturers.... Now shoot through paper... fletched or bareshaft is fine... bareshaft will magnify the issues... so only very solid archers should use a bareshaft..... for most people, a fletched shaft is plenty fine. Shim the cams in the direction of the paper tear. Tail right paper tear, Move cams right. Look at the cam lean and determine if you want to start on the top or bottom cam... and often times both cams need to be moved... once you get the best paper tear you can get leave the shimming alone... note that either cam can have their own shim spacing, they do not need to match. For those with yokes, add twist to right yoke for a tail right tear, or remove twist from left yoke... reverse for a tail left tear. ... If your cable slide can move, it can also induce or help clean up paper tears. It should be used for fine tuning as it does not make a huge effect. For a RH shooter, move cable slide towards arrow to help a left tear. opposite for right tear. If you have a tail high tear, move your rest up, and for tail low, move rest down. This can also be done with the nocking point, moving it in the reverse of the rest. Once you have the best paper tear you can get, move on to a walk back tune... Now, on to walk back tuning. Shoot the bow from 3 yards at a vertical line. Adjust your sight to get the arrow to hit the vertical line... Now, move back to 20 yards and shoot at that same vertical line (you can move your sight up and down for distance, just dont touch left or right just yet) .... If the arrow is off to one side at 20 yards , micro adjust the rest to get perfectly straight arrow flight. It is often a very fine micro adjusting dance between sight and rest, and going between 3 and 20 yards, working the arrow and sight into perfect harmony.... Great, Now you have an arrow tracking in a perfectly straight line behind your pin, and it is flying well... you are all set to make your sight tapes for 3d, field, or hunting ( *broadhead flight must be checked for hunting of course*.)... This is the tuning method I use to start out with all my bows. You can go even further with tuning, such as limb sequences and such ... I will quickly just say this, in my experience... For a RH bow, with a tail right paper tear, weaken top right limb and/or bottom right limb deflection... or do the reverse and stiffen top/ bot left limbs ..., You can only work with the limb sequences you have available, but with my old PSE bows, I usually found a certain limb sequence to perform best...but not always, and only go this far if you see a necessary cause... This information should get your bow shooting better than the VAST majority of other people out there, and it will almost certainly shoot better than you ever can!!! For indoor 18m, I often focus much more heavily on perfect arrow flight, and not walk back tuning as much... I always check it, but the priority is the best possible arrow flight since the distance never changes... Hope this helps someone, somewhere. Best of luck folks

I think elite made a nice 33 inch axle to axle bow. That you can hunt wt shoot 3D wt. And if you want target. They should have made a integrated rest mount. It helps makes the bow slimmer. I have shot it and shoots well.

@utvc3687

8 ай бұрын

Integrated rest is bad for hunting. It is a gimmick you don't need

@wcwcgarner2717

8 ай бұрын

@@utvc3687 you have know idea what your talking about

@utvc3687

8 ай бұрын

@@wcwcgarner2717 bruh... Know idea?

@wcwcgarner2717

8 ай бұрын

​@@utvc3687What do I do not know. I know the omnia was junk. The control cable rubbing the top cam. And the cams making a lound sound from the adjustment screw. I am a bow technician. That's why I only shoot Mathews and Bowtech. Best bows made facts. I shoot every new bow before they come out. So what do I not know?

@utvc3687

8 ай бұрын

@@wcwcgarner2717 lol another Matthews fanboy always trolling under other brand reviews

I don't think there's an issue you mentioning that Elite have helped out with warranty where it's been user error...it leads to increased confidence in the manufacturer and if you have confidence in your rep it leads to more sales ultimately. I work in hearing aids and I know if a rep is helpful, that to me is so valuable where products are otherwise similar between manufacturers. Looks like an excellent 33 inch at bow

Awesome video 👍🏻

Hoyt still use $2 dip on 2k bows, bloody joke...

A longer bolt with from a hardware store might solve the adjust ability issue.

@Rikcey

8 ай бұрын

You can't, because the pocket is locked in with 2 pinch bolts, which are in slots.

@MrFornicater

8 ай бұрын

@@Rikcey ah makes sense. I have done it in the past with Mathews.

Looks like your doing well since your surgery! Best wishes, enjoy the videos! You like mathews cause you like changing the grip 🤡😂🤣

Looks like a baby verdict

Your prices here in the US for Hoyt are wrong. Their bows are $1549 US for the aluminum bows. Hoyt and Mathews are in a class of their own for pricing. The $1149 price you see is to help dealers sell old products for the new products to start rolling in.

@ArcherySuppliesLonsdale

8 ай бұрын

I grabbed the pricing from Lanscaster archery. $1550 would make more sense. But then the most expensive bow.

@garymiller4715

8 ай бұрын

@@ArcherySuppliesLonsdale I figured. Not a Hoyt hater either. My current favorite bow is my Hoyt rx3. If you shop around in the US you can find brand new TRX's for $1000-$1300 from dealers

Why don’t elite produce a red bow?

@ArcherySuppliesLonsdale

8 ай бұрын

No Idea - I asked and I know a pro shooter who asked and she is high profile.

You were saying that you don't bother tuning your hunting bows, just out of curiousity when was the last time you went hunting. To me it seems like you're trying to justify not wanting to put the effort into tuning the bows that you sell, witch seems to be very common in Australian archery shops, after all it takes time and time is money.and trying to convince someone that an arrow isn't dramatically affected when it's been shot out of a bow that isn't tuned is straight bull shit, specially when there's a fixed blade

It disgusts me no end there are people so stupid as to dry fire a bow, new or old, and then expect the manufacturer to replace parts free. And the shop to do ALL the work related for free. YOU dry fired it- pay for your stupidity in cash UP FRONT, IMO!

@ArcherySuppliesLonsdale

8 ай бұрын

People forget to load the arrow. I think they are so focused on what they are doing and getting form correct the forget the shot sequence. Shot sequence is really important. It's a bit like checking your sight twice on field so you dont use the wrong sight setting

Mathews has the worst draw cycle of them all