I just did this job today , I removed the knuckle assembly , no big deal .

My brother all you have to move down there is the axel and the tyrod then u used a bar to put pressure the 3 way control arm built for that moving up and down

do you have link where you bought the part from

Do you know the size of the something u used to remove the bolts for the lower co tool arm? I might have missed it in the video

@dashvideos4841

Жыл бұрын

it's a 6 point "star shaped" Torx "socket set". Just like the T45 male I had to buy (same shitty star shaped design as the female sockets for those nuts) I'm sure you already figured that out although. This is for anyone else that may need that answer as far as type and size. At the knuckle, it's a 5/8 at the star, 15mm on top, at the ball joint side, it's 7/16 star and the last part is 15mm on the other side connected to the same bolt where that star bolt is (both top and bottom are 15mm, one metric the other female Torx). I personally just used regular sockets that have 8-12 sides metric. If you're going to do that instead of ordering those fucking stupid star sockets, make sure to soak everything with some good old BP blaster and go easy while unscrewing it. If you feel any form of possible slippage, STOP! After BP blasting it, shoot it with some break clean and wipe down any BP blaster to avoid unintentional slippage (why do I feel I'm teaching sex Ed here?) Maybe go down a size or if you're not confident enough, just pick up a cheap star set (Torx female socket set) at Harbor freight or something to save money instead of getting rapped on amazon for a socket set you'll rarely or never use again. Great job Chryiat! another genius idea next to the tubes crossing the serpentine belt 😮‍💨 IDIOTS! I HATE this car... Everything turns out to be a mission to repair on this stupid vehicle. Sad part is, if you own one, you'll be doing a lot of repairs on it, that's for sure! After completing the job, I recommend driving down to the car wash, having it detailed and also purchasing a "for sale" sign on your way home to avoid any of this crap in the future lol. Maybe save the receipt for the Torx sets and return those as well. My engine sounds like a kids "Big Wheels car". that's how whiny it sounds when pressing on the gas. Nice idea for the 2015 200s+ although complete epic fail as far as many failures and engineering "fuck-ups" brought to you by Chrysler! Never again. Good luck!!

Do u have to compress the strut ??

Thank you for the information. To the next person to attempt to do this... don’t take the inner fender out and don’t unbolt the control arm from the chassis. Simply remove the outboard end of the control arm at the knuckle. Separate the arm and knuckle at that point. It will save an hour or so.

@tjohanson

3 жыл бұрын

An hour? I had it out in 20 minutes or less.

@larryreno8293

3 жыл бұрын

Chryiat 200 I said “ it will save an hour or so.”

The stuts I replaced came with new clips for the top and they were junk , you could take them off by hand . I reused the originals because they were much better quality and the closest dodge dealer is 50 miles away .

Hello I'm from Ukraine. bought such a car chrysler 200. I want to change the front strut. good monroe? what else can be applied

@tjohanson

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, warranty wise.

@jess-kp7wp

Жыл бұрын

hope you're well

what a pain

Why don't you guys simply undo the lower ball joint and move the spinal, doing all.of that now you have to do a complete alignment on the front of that car.... I'm taking the ball joint loose and moving the spindal