Thanks your video was awesome and you were very thorough and well spoken and a real natural.

AWESOME VIDEO!!! No tacky gimmicks, didnt spend 45 mins speaking about non sense. just straight to the point and very informative well done thank you sir

Fantastic video and very informative…just helped me to resolve an issue with my 93 F150 and TPS voltage issue, as I wasn’t aware the mounting position of the sensor to the throttle body would impact voltage to the sensor. I’m still not sure I understand the how’s or why’s but I made the adjustment and got my sensor in range (was too high) and it’s smooth as can be. Thanks again for this tutorial 👏🏻👏🏻💯

@Hunters_Mechanics

8 ай бұрын

Love to hear it!

Very helpful! Thank you for the video.

Awesome video and explanation thanks!!

Great video

Thank you!

This is great

Great video and Nice truck man,back when they made real trucks,this shit today is like Rolls Royces with a bed on it.

We’re doing this now, but we drilled the wholes out testing it off the orange and black wire we got a initial .78 volts then after which it’s down to .52 and don’t change when we rotate it. Granted it was a cheap as hell DVMM but it still looking for some insight! Finding a new season was hell and not cheap lol had to drive 2 hours to get one

@mitchellspringer7025

7 ай бұрын

Edit I ment green wire not orange

Great detail!! One of the best videos I’ve watched!! Thanks!

I really appreciate your video. I’m having a problem with my TPS. What setting did you use on your multimeter to check the TPS?

@Hunters_Mechanics

6 ай бұрын

Voltage reading for DC

I have perfect idle like a brand new car, and i can do high rpms nice and smoothly but anything in-between sucks. Cant even get to freeway speed . It something that recently happened. I have perfect 53psi constant fuel pressure too.

M having lots of issues wit my TPS after replacing my throttle body to a bbk n to be honest don't know how to use the tester lol

The tps location was an oversite in fords engineering for the v8 being under the throttle body

@Hunters_Mechanics

4 ай бұрын

Facts

I’m trying this and man it’s all the way off. Sometimes it’s reading .000 and sometimes.561 but it’s jumping around too much to figure out. And ideas?

@Hunters_Mechanics

3 ай бұрын

Sounds like the sensor itself is bad or the connector may be dirty to the sensor. Should always get a reading of "something" if the key is turned so if you're getting a 000, then you must have a short or the sensor itself is faulty

So my ‘89 F150 doesn’t have ANY coolant lines going to OR coming from the throttle body. Is it required, because I drove the truck exactly like this since November…😅

@Hunters_Mechanics

2 ай бұрын

It's not required but I believe it's supposed help the butterflies not freeze in the winter time and assist them warming up if they for whatever reason had some ice/frost on them. I know a few people in forums said they remove them because they don't live in a colder climate

@NitroTaki2002

2 ай бұрын

@@Hunters_Mechanics Ohhh ok. I drove it in zero degree temperatures no problem, so I didn’t know if it was vital that they were ran to the TB. I appreciate the insight Sir! ✊🏻

👍🙂

Could this be a reason why my 1987 f150 5.0 starts up but then stalls shortly after? I’ve been chasing this issue for a while now and still can’t figure it out, send help please haha

@Hunters_Mechanics

5 ай бұрын

Short answer is yes, long answer is that just about every sensor could cause it in this truck lol can you get it to stay on if you play with the throttle or does it die regardless?

@jonathanbrown1120

4 ай бұрын

same issue here, revs fine but wants to die at idle and at startup unless i hold the revs to 850-900. sounds fine otherwise and revs smoothly.

@thisthatthethird1455

3 ай бұрын

Did you figure this out? I’m having the same issue with my 91 f350 5.8. Just replaced the tps but didn’t adjust the position for the voltage. I also wonder if the connector that connects to the tps sensor is bad

@jonathanbrown1120

3 ай бұрын

tps sensors have to be calibrated and are not plug and play according to forums. try your IAC valve, that was my issue. its 1 plug and 2 small bolts. it should run with a bad tps but will run poorly. with a bad IAC “idle air control” the intake is not designed to let in air during idle anywhere else and if bad will stall and refuse to run die after reving… unless you turn the screw on the throttle body to open the throttle and keep it cracked open. (screw should be backed all the way out and barley touch the throttle plate)

If my idle is running high do I have to mess with the screw?

@Hunters_Mechanics

5 ай бұрын

There can be a lot of things associated with these trucks running a high idle, I would perform the first check like I did by unplugging the Idle Air Control and see if it dies or if it idles too high, should sound like what I have in the video. If it's still too high, I would adjust the screen down a little bit and see if that helps

@mikerenza2253

2 ай бұрын

No

So do you take the idle screw completely out when you are setting TPS voltage or leave it in?

@Hunters_Mechanics

6 ай бұрын

You do the first procedure with getting the idle set right with unplugging the IAC, that way when you are setting the voltage, you have the throttle body in its correct closed position where the computer expects it to be

@Bricked.up_Lariat

6 ай бұрын

Thank you for explaining. I’m hoping this will fix my issue, I rebuild my motor and deleted all emission and every since it had had issues of not idling properly and cutting off and not starting back up when I drive it a little distance. Everything is brand new.

@Hunters_Mechanics

6 ай бұрын

@@Bricked.up_Lariat I feel like I should do a video this year on going over the the shitty running conditions that these bricknoses have and what I've done to fix them because a lot of people seem to have too many problems with them 😂

@Bricked.up_Lariat

6 ай бұрын

@@Hunters_Mechanics that would be awesome man, it would help a lot of people out. I’m gonna subscribe and look forward to that vid from ya lol. The root to a lot of the problems I feel is the shitty 90’s efi system. I plan on replacing mine with Holley efi system soon

@Hunters_Mechanics

6 ай бұрын

@@Bricked.up_Lariat From my experience and from me helping others, the largest chunk of everyone problem keeps going back to buying Autozone/O'Reilly/Advanced sensors and they're all just shit 😂 It's a night and day difference when you buy Motorcraft sensors for these old trucks in terms of how they perform and how long they last, the other thing too is so many Amazon/eBay special parts that people buy expecting them to be good when they're 20% of the price of a known good brand, I saw someone in a FB group buy all 8 injectors for 60 DOLLARS 🤣 ill see you back on the post after you install them there bud lol

what was she idleing at after she got warmed back up again at the end of the video? i know the procedures in other work manuals say about 750 rpm`s. and i also know that every truck is gonna run a little different. i have gone through hell with this damn 1988 f250 5.8L for a long time now. im supprised i havent gone totally insane yet. and thanks for the info on this

@Hunters_Mechanics

7 ай бұрын

Thats about spot on where it sits, 750-800 after it idles down

@awh5773

7 ай бұрын

@@Hunters_Mechanics thank you very much. the old books says use a .030 feeler gauge at the stop screw then adjust idle to 780 rpm`s. and pull the pip connector and unplug the iac. been doing that and it dont work on mine. also last time i drilled out holes in the tps i lost my life warranty at auto zone. so i havent been doing that , and they usually sit around .92 and it never seems to learn how to do anything but run bad . again thanks for the help

@Hunters_Mechanics

7 ай бұрын

@@awh5773 I used to run Autozone tps, IAC, and MAP and constantly swapped them out. I think I went through like 5-6 MAP sensors because they kept failing so often. I finally just bought all Motorcraft sensors and following the Ford papers and manuals and its been working flawlessly. Even used to run just without the IAC plugged in because it runs like a carbureted truck but when it was cold it was a pain in the ass to keep it on long enough to warm up lol start up and immediately die

@awh5773

7 ай бұрын

@Hunters_Mechanics I know all about that stuff. Again thanks for the help. I didn't know about the ford paper you showed. Wish I had known about that lots sooner LOL

@awh5773

7 ай бұрын

@@Hunters_Mechanics i forgot to ask. do you still have the diode in the IAC wires. i got a small bladed fuse holder then went to salvage yard and looked at all the 90`s cars and got the small black diodes from the under hood relay / fuse box. makes it easier to replace if necessary. p.s. dont put the diode in backwards if you do this. it will cause problems i tell ya. i had the old red cover haynes book. in wiring diagram it shows the diode in backwards. caused me lots of problems

PLEASE READ. I have a 1990 f250 351w. I see that your tps was on the same way mine is. With the pigtail facing the drivers side of the tb. I’m seeing other forums and videos with it towards the passenger side. So now I’m confused. Why would this be?

@Hunters_Mechanics

8 ай бұрын

The bottom of the TB had a casting shape near what the TPS looks like, it may be different on other TB's, not sure. Could also be interference with the TB coolant line

@joewarrick6043

8 ай бұрын

@@Hunters_Mechanics I noticed that. After I sent that comment I was reading more in a forum and someone said it really shouldn't matter if it was turned either way . Idk seems like it would to me. Good job on the video though. I'm gonna hook up a multimeter tomorrow and get it dialed in. I've had a he'll of a time with this truck. Runs very rich I'm getting there but something still isn't quite right. Purge valve solenoid works but the truck starts better with it not hooked into the tb. After it's started I hook it in and the idle goes down and it idles fine then. When I shut it off and try to start it again it's a hard start. Messing with the timing it starts up good at a certain position of the distributer then I turn it after it's running for a good smoth sound to the engine but shut it off and then to start it with the distr. Where it was at while running smooth it's so far out that the engine don't even want to turn over.. new map sensor iac moves freely after I cleaned it up. Still need to check my egr valve. New coil was put on and it definitely started easier. Charcoal canister has some holes in it. I got a new air filter today I'm putting on it. The old one was horribly gunked up. New pcv valve. I think I still may have some vacuum leaks. I also had theism tested it was fine and I got a new pick up coil I need to put in. I know I'm kinda all over with everything but it's driving me nuts. I'm thinking I need to check the fuel pressure regulator too

@Hunters_Mechanics

8 ай бұрын

@@joewarrick6043 This truck was a hand-me-down and it was the same way, it took me years to learn how the sensors work and what causes what issue lol all in all, my largest issue ended up being the TB bearings for the butterflies, it had play and wouldn't allow the TB to close all the way which made the truck dangerous to drive because it wouldn't idle down 😅 Your intake constantly pulls a vacuum on those canisters so if they have holes, thats a vacuum leak point, I would follow the line back to the intake T and cap it off with a rubber cap (they're cheap on Amazon), I have my truck set at 10° bTDC according to the Ford instructions and it runs great, no matter the temperature outside or if it just shut off, it starts damn near one turn each time. Did you purchase Motorcraft sensors? I've had too many autozone IAC and MAF sensors fail quickly and ever since I started going OE I have yet to have problems

@joewarrick6043

8 ай бұрын

@@Hunters_Mechanics are you saying to plug the lines so the intake isn’t pulling air into it but leave the purge solenoid wiring harness connected? And to answer your question I’ve been basically buying the cheapest sensors I can. I know I should get the better ones

@Hunters_Mechanics

8 ай бұрын

@@joewarrick6043 Absolutely plug the lines that aren't being used. Anywhere that it can pull unrestricted air other than the airbox itself creates issues lol those lines that go to the TB from the charcoal canister (I assume thats what you're referring to the purge valve), as long as its still connected to the gas tank, I would leave them because it helps relieve the pressure in the tank, I currently have mine blocked off at the TB because my steel line is gone and my gas tank vents to the bed

Or its your purge solenoid - that will cause crap idle and stalling

@JC-fq5xv

3 ай бұрын

Will this also cause high throttle while at idle ?

@freelancerider100

3 ай бұрын

@@JC-fq5xv yes it can

@HarryJensen-kr4qz

3 ай бұрын

@@JC-fq5xv (95 F-150) It's my understanding the purge opens briefly at start up. Mine stayed open, I pulled the hoses, plugged them. My idle issue was a broken spring in idle air control (IAC) sensor. When my TPS went bad my truck had trouble shifting higher than 2nd gear, js. Another issue I had: Driving on highway, the truck lost power for 1/4 mile then suddenly ran fine, CEL came on and went off. Same cycle over and over. Got an "air not bypassing" code. Was a clogged converter.

@JC-fq5xv

3 ай бұрын

Thanks I have the throttle body off at the moment … going to replace the idle air control the tps and the gaskets

where graphic card

First off, thanks for the very informative video. Just curious where you got the 0.96 to 0.98 spec. In my Hanes Manual, the instructions recommend 0.5 to 1.0.

@Hunters_Mechanics

Ай бұрын

It comes from the Ford Performance paper at 4:10, I just happened to find it on a forum somewhere and it worked perfect for me. I cannot prove it's authenticity but from my experience and others, it appears to be the sweet spot

I have a concern. It’s a ford

@austin_colt

8 ай бұрын

that is concerning

@dntlss

8 ай бұрын

Strange, i normally dont frequent videos of things i don't like,do you? thats just me though.