I am about to change my push rod tube seals and this is fantastically useful info. Many thanks.

@BrooksAirheadGarage

3 жыл бұрын

You're welcome. Best of success.

Great Video!

@BrooksAirheadGarage

Жыл бұрын

Thank you Mark 😀

Mistakes are great educators! Also, I’d use a dead blow hammer. As for stud removal, years ago I bought a snap-on collet type stud remover. Expensive now but I was doing a lot of racing and engine work and it was invaluable. Who did your fin repair?

@BrooksAirheadGarage

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Mac, Interesting you were involved in racing engine building, as the fellow who repaired my fin has a long career doing exactly that here in the Denver area. :-) A tool like I used when I worked part time in a vintage Triumph/ BSA shop is much quicker, but I don't remove these studs all the time, so the double or triple nuts work well and the cost can't be beat :-)

Considering the amount of expense involved in the rebuild you are doing I'm amazed that you didn't buy the correct tool for driving the push rod tubes out/in. In paying for the damage you inflicted you've now paid for the tool but don't have it.

Hi Brook, i have a 1979 R100s with stripped spark plug threads, what do you recommend to fix this? Thanks

@BrooksAirheadGarage

2 жыл бұрын

Les, I've not had to repair spark plug threads before. Bob Fleisher, aka, Snowbum, has some advice on repairs in this article: bmwmotorcycletech.info/sparkplugs.htm

Did not know the measurements for the collar depth. Driving the tubes in too far could contribute to leaks

Very well done videos! I felt sort of sick when the fin was broken.... As an alternative to the visegrips-hammer, could you leave the short stud in and put a suitably sized socket down the hole and then use a bar anchored by a nut threaded onto the stud to simply (and gently) press the push rod tube out? I’m surprised that BMW doesn’t have a tool (costing at least $786) to do this job. ;-)

@BrooksAirheadGarage

4 жыл бұрын

HI Peter, I always like to show my stupid moves so others can avoid them. :-). I believe the use of the board on the top of the cylinder prevents cracking any fins when driving out the push rod tubes. They are a shrink fit, so I prefer a sharp rap to get them free. But, feel free to try your method on your project.

Thanks for the informative video Brook. Where did you come by the 1.75 mm spec for the pushrod tube collar depth? Does this apply to airheads of different years?

@BrooksAirheadGarage

3 жыл бұрын

Hi WIlliam, That gap comes from Tom Cutter, a very respected Airhead mechanic. It works well for all years.

@dubteas

3 жыл бұрын

@@BrooksAirheadGarage What might you try if those studs prove to be stubborn coming out? Can I apply heat to them without ruining them?

@BrooksAirheadGarage

3 жыл бұрын

@@dubteas Yes, heat would help to expand the aluminum more than the steel. And, they may have been installed with red loctite, so you need heat to loosen it. I'd back the cylinder in an oven at 250 for 30 minutes and then try removing the studs. You may need triple nuts to break them free while preventing the nuts from turning. And, if you need to, you can use a propane torch to heat the stud directly as that will definitely loosen any loctite that was used. Try to keep the flame on the stud to loosen any loctite.

Hey I’m new to your channel. Any experience with putting a bigger tire on the back of an r100rs? I got a slight rub on the right swing arm.. any experience with the 10.7mm spacer/sleeve? Ty

@BrooksAirheadGarage

5 жыл бұрын

No, I have no experience. I believe the different size top hat (aka spacer) is used when you are mounting a wider tire. But, you only have so much clearance to play with. That said, IHMO, wider tires add nothing to handling. YMMV.

@rmasco71

5 жыл бұрын

Brook's Airhead Garage thank you for your thorough response.. my bike is new to me so I look forward to learning from you

Can I hire you to put together my r90 for me ?

@BrooksAirheadGarage

3 жыл бұрын

Hi Roger, Thank you for the offer. But I don't do work for hire.