I use this for video content that supports my blog site "Brook's Airhead Garage" at (brook.reams.me/). On the site, you will find a growing number of detailed articles about how I rebuild BMW airhead motorcycles. I've completed four rebuilds: 1973 R75/5, 1976 R75/6, 1977 R100RS and a 1984 R100RS that I converted to an RT configuration. I'm working on a 5th project for charity that is the restoration of a 1983 R80ST. I will sell it at auction and donate all proceeds to the Motorcycle Relief Project (www.motorelief.org)
Пікірлер
Brook, my airhead’s oil cooler has seen better days from an aesthetic perspective. Can I rattle can paint it to refresh it?
Yes.
I'm in the tank now and using this video as a sanity check. Chris Harris video convinced me to upgrade the fuel pump while I'm in there. Thanks Euro Moto Electric for linking this video.
Another great video. Thank you.
You're welcome Steve, I'm glad it was useful to you. 🙂
Really appreciate you making these videos... very complete, methodical, and informative! Thanks.
You’re welcome Jim 😊
Thanks so much guys...
Hello, great job ! How do you intall the rubber on the lever ?
I use Rhyglide which is a rubber lubricant. You can also use dish soap.
Okay thanks a lot, I will try !
Watch the indian guys doing royal enfield tanks on a production line,just amazing
Sounds real nice,not clattery
Very informative video. As well as smoothing out the engine, I’ve found that setting the air/fuel mix correctly is critical in preventing the engine from wanting to bog out and stall when lifting off idle. Have you experienced this with these carbs?
I will try to answer as I helped Brook with the video. Yes,getting the air/fuel mixture set correctly will prevent the "bog" just off idle. After i finish the carb balance, I go back and double check the idle air/fuel settings, once I'm sure they are correct then, double check the balance again, as idle air/fuel can affect the carb balance. It is a "balancing act" between all the adjustments. We have developed a written, step by step procedure. If you are interested contact me and I'll email a copy.
@@Radar100RS Thank you for your reply. I would be very grateful for a copy of your step-by-step procedure. KZread seems to block comments containing an email address, but if you click on my avatar, it will take you to my channel. My email is in my channel description. Thanks again.
I watched with amazement as a gentleman balanced the twin D'ellorto carbs on my 74 R90s many years ago. He'd use two screwdrivers while putting his head on the gas tank. When done, the idle was silky smooth. I asked him to teach me. He'd laugh and say that he couldn't explain it. He was service manager at a local BMW dealer. If his old bike(with the Earls forks /2 I think) didn't fire with one kick, He'd tear into it. Great video, BTW. Thanks
Thank you Tom 😊
What an excellent video! One remark though: in some countries, however, this kind of conversion is strictly illegal as the only displacement allowed is the one that appears on the license. Although such infringement is undetectable during inspection, if God forbids there is an accident and the infringement is discovered, the insurance policy is no longer valid. In certain countries any modification that deviates from the license is strictly forbidden, so check beforehand.
Thank you. It will remain a mystery to me why the BMW engineers designed it like this. On all Japanese bikes (I own one of them too) replacing the fuel filter is a 10 minute job, if you do it slowly...
Really helpful - thank you! Just removed and replaced my lock (as it had no key) in tiny gap between frame and fender (from outside the left side of complete bike), but now have to remove it again, as the new lock rotates - yours is the only account that clearly shows the detent pip between the lock and the frame. Hopefully I've only got to do it all again just one more time to get it right...as it's not easy to do!
I see quite a lot on airhead forums about not using the shorting method with ‘modern’ electronic ignition due to risk of damage to components. Any comments ?
Lesley, you have to ensure the grounding spoke+plug screw top are tight and fit snuggly in the spark plug cap. It helps if you put a groove in the unthreaded end of the spoke so it engages the internal spark plug cap clip.
Brooks….do you do your own paint? If not, who do you use? Looks fantastic!
Great video, the only thing is instead of spending time on building the racer remover a tool called 'pilot bearing puller' can be purchased, I paid $21 for it on eBay and it works great.
thanks mate im doing this right now fuck shit german crap bike
The bungee chord around the brake lever overnight made a 50% plus difference. It was getting late when I was working on the front brakes and called it a night. Before retiring for the evening I decided to give a try. Thanks again and I'll finish the job tomorrow.
You're welcome Mike 🙂
I am stuck at what you call the « fiddly bit » where the upper part of the rod connects. Can’t even remove it.
Typical wolker sachse Ignition, you all ways have to make changed, because it never fits from the factory. Have put some on Moto Guzzi, with the hall sensor type, will newer buy it again, awful mounting instruction, too many things i had to make, because it did not fit at all.
I am new to the boxer world and your excellent, meticulous videos are very well organized with great clarity of explanations. Thank you.
you're welcome Mike. 🙂
Sounds like Kelly of Weber university
Outstanding videos! THANK YOU!!
Thanks Brian 😊
Thanks Brooks!
Thanks Brook! Note: my 32mm carbs on 84 R65 have a circlip holdin the jet needle. There is a screw plug that must be removed to remove the jet needle. When I saw how easy Brandon pulled and the needle slid out, I checked the other end and noticed a slotted head. Unscrewed it. Voila the jet came out after the plug. Great that you are continuing to document your experiences and passing it on to Brandon too.
Sorry, not sure why that posted. But what I am trying to say is that a new C3 bearings have about .002 "flex" in them and when the gauge anvil strikes using one ratchet, you will flex this bearing down by this amount. I actually take the measurement from the inner race which does not flex. Due to the output shaft, I have to measure the outer part of the bearing, but I use a flashlight and the lightest touch to make sure I am not depressing the bearing. I wonder if you can comment on this.
I have rebuilt many BMW airhead transmissions for 74 - 76 model years. One question I have for you is this. When you measure the bearing surface below the measuring plate you show your depth gauge at the outer part of the bearing vs the inner race. I use the same Mitutoyo depth gauge you are using so I know that when the gauge anvil interacts with the bearing outer
bonjour , hi Mr . thanks so much for your info diffusion & your work about vidéo. have à good road ride
jean-christian, thank you. 🙂
Brook, I have a set of 64/32/323 & 324 from an '81 R80 G/S. Is there any benefit to changing from the old style needles (with clips) and slides to the new style? Also, when, if ever, would it be necessary to replace all the jets, mixing screw and float needle? I am currently rebuilding them now. Thx.
Just bought that tool from Cycle Works (a great resource) and it worked just as you show. One note: the '78 - '80 driveshaft is similar with the spring and can be removed with the tool the same way, but the shaft is different in that there are two flats cut on opposite sides at that collar that allows it to slip through the smaller diameter swing arm. I believe that spring is the source of the nickname "rubber cow".
Great Video! I Love your Content and the Quality
Thank you 😊
Hi Brooks, do you time the yoke with the uni joint? Cheers
Drew, I don't understand your question.
Timing is also called phasing. "Phasing is the process of aligning the universal joint yokes on both ends of the drive shaft (or double u-joint) in a parallel fashion. If the joints are not properly phased, they will operate at varying speeds throughout each revolution which can cause second-order vibrations." I've seen people mention it for the later R100GS where both ends are uni joints, but not for the earlier style where one end is a yoke
So articulate. And accurate.
Thank you for the kind words. 🙂
@@BrooksAirheadGarage well, more of a professional acknowledgement than kind. I was once a professional engineer. Unfortunately I fell into academia later in life. So from the former I value being precise; from the latter I value being articulate. I imagine you may have had analogous adventures.
I love this guy 🙏🏼👍🏻👌🏻
All I need to know is how much of the RT faring do I need to take off and how to replace the hydraulic damper itself. It's pretty obvious how it works but how do I get it off and back on?
Apologies for the delay. The cost on the gasket is recommended by BMW. It may or may not help but it doesn’t help. An extra step that brings me a little peace of mind. I dumped the oil every 200 miles for 1000 miles during the break in. Sitting at nearly 5,000 miles on the new cylinders and no issues. Next step is to strap on our rebuilt 40mm carbs and matching heads to make it a nearly true R100
you are a good man thank you
You're welcome 🙂
love the beer can solution... (as a shim) 👍
I was wondering if you could help me. I have a 77 R100S with an RT fairing on it (the previous owner was apparently converting it to an RT). This also meant he did some creative rewiring. I've been chasing a bad ground, but lately, the issue has compounded with the headlight indicator lights no longer lighting up. So I decided to pull all the wires off, clean the board, and now I want to reconnect them. Problem is... I don't really know where some go. The wiring for the blinker, for example, isn't represented on the wiring diagram I have (the left blinker has a black, orange, and light blue wire). The orange wire was clipped into a combiner (that blue plastic thing with a bit of metal in it to connect two wires) with a blue and red wire. The light blue was soldered to a blue and black. And I don't remember where the black one went. I'm autistic, and looking at the wiring diagram makes me feel overstimulated with visual input.
One of the best BMW carb rebuild video's, you kept calling fuel enrichment, choke. It is a fuel an enrichment circuit, correct ?
Yes BMW calls it enrichment. That said, it operates as a separate carburetor.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage l thought so, that being said. Your video on the Bing carburetor rebuild was one of the most thorough I have ever seen. Thanks for sharing 👍
IS it possible to repear mono shok (r80rt monolever) ? Thanks for your videos 🤝
Some are rebuildable and others are not
@@BrooksAirheadGarage i have the original
pojj
Very nice! I'm replacing the pushrod tube seals on my R100R and this video covers that too.
So helpful. As a new vintage BMW Airhead owner, your videos help me gain enough confidence to play it by myself.
You’re welcome Adam 😊
Hi Brook, a basic question if I may, you are so experienced I trust your view. Servicing my ‘80 R100RS on the garage floor on centre stand is getting more difficult. Is it OK to lift the bike with a scissor lift, taking the weight on the oil sump?
Yes, but you should put a board under the sump so the weight is evenly distributed on the oil pan.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage thank you, door to know .
Good to know!!
Great video 👊👍🇧🇷
You’re welcome 😀
I did not lock my crankshaft in place. By both cylinders and heads are in still place - will my crankshaft still be able to move? I just took it off last night - it does not look like the crankshaft moved at all. I did put the bolt in place after watching the video.
You maybe lucky the crankshaft shim didn’t come off the pins. Tighten the flywheel bolts a bit and turn the crankshaft to be sure there is no resistance . If there is resistance one of the shims is off the pins. You have to get the one inside the engine back on the pins or you will damage the crankshaft.
Excellent methods, tips and sound advice. Thank you for putting this together for us all!
You're welcome Jim 🙂
Deutsches Motorrad auf Englisch kommentiert geht garnicht 😢😢😢😢
Very nice instructional video. Thank you for sharing this
You're welcome Spyros. 🙂