Love the explanations. The thin wall machining shows why 6 jaw chucks exist. Not that they make things perfect - there is still a gap between the jaws - but they are better than a 3 jaw. Obviously a collet would be better again - particularly an ER type (or similar) rather than a 5C, but of course NEVER for black stock.
@ericparsonage79384 сағат бұрын
Nicely explained. The thing has a hole through it to allow the adjuster so the bushing idea was a nonstarter.
@JB-ol4vz11 сағат бұрын
Very well explained Mr. Thanks for your informative films. Cheers from Sweden.
@occasionalmachinist9 сағат бұрын
No problems - the stuff in there is the sort of thing that is learnt by experience and rarely spoken of.
@opieshomeshop11 сағат бұрын
*_I must have missed a past video. Why not just make a whole new part?_*
@occasionalmachinist9 сағат бұрын
I did - it's the video entitled "Look what the metric system made me do", but I got a couple of comments suggesting making a whole new part was not the easiest way of doing things. This is an explanation of the issues that those ideas may have problems attached to them.
@opieshomeshop8 сағат бұрын
@@occasionalmachinist Ok I get it now, I think. I don't know why your friend wanted to change to a metric in the first place. If it isn't broke, why fix it? As far as everything you said in this video, I agree.
@ericparsonage79384 сағат бұрын
@@opieshomeshop It was originally 20mm but a previous "fix" converted it to ¾" and the bores in the band wheel modified to suit an imperial bearing. That ended up as a failure so this was taking it back to the original specification.
@opieshomeshop4 сағат бұрын
@@ericparsonage7938 I see. Thanks for clearing that up. 👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣
@RustyInventions-wz6ir12 сағат бұрын
Very interesting. Nice work sir
@occasionalmachinist9 сағат бұрын
Thanks.
@stevenormandin20592 күн бұрын
sometime called a Radial Spline Coupling or a Hirth coupling.
@NathanNostaw5 күн бұрын
Any plans on sharing the drawings? I'd be keen to have a copy of you ever choose to upload or email them.
@occasionalmachinist5 күн бұрын
There are additional videos about the sharpener where I build a copy (others also wanted the drawings, but I had not gone through and checked them, so this was the simplest way). The drawings are scattered through the videos as needed. I did find a couple of errors and some things that I thought could have been done differently/ more efficiently, so that is in there too. A couple of people I know have made them and used them, so it seems to work.
@NathanNostaw5 күн бұрын
I've only recently stumbled upon your channel and am working my way through all the previous videos. This is a fantastic little machine. I'd love to reproduce it one day as I have Kgs of bits needing sharpening (All rescued from a workshop with no-one who knew how to hand sharpen, so they were used within an inch of their life and swapped for new.) I can happily sharpen by hand with pretty good results, but I'm not keen on how many hours of full concentration all the dead ones would take.
@occasionalmachinist5 күн бұрын
That is the nice thing about a device like this
@raymondmarteene70475 күн бұрын
Great tip about the plastic duplicate, I have a use for that. Cheers.
@occasionalmachinist5 күн бұрын
I've done it, and successfully, but it needs care with heating the steel blank - too hot and the plastic melts out, too cold and it does not form the teeth. If you have an IR contactless thermometer, that could be a great help.
@paulrayner45146 күн бұрын
interesting 👍
@graedonmunro17936 күн бұрын
very clever hinges!! looking like a movie set now, nice use of the sidchrome box(LOL) cheers👍👍
@occasionalmachinist6 күн бұрын
I've had that box for close to 40 years now. Normally there is a piece of paper over the top, but it gets used quite a bit as it is just a nice height for standing.
@occasionalmachinist6 күн бұрын
For those thinking about the bounce I'm getting, the problem is in twisting. The trusses are plenty stiff in the plane they are in, but when the final section is at an angle to the first section, the first section is being twisted by the weight of the final section being out of the plane of the truss. A counterweight would reduce the twist, but would not necessarily help with torsional stiffness. I think I can stiffen the truss slightly and that might help. It's not helped by the hinge pins not being coaxial. For that I will have to make a custom hinge with the pins joined. While the hinges don't directly make the boom end bounce, they are sagging and that is not helping
@stustoys7 күн бұрын
If it troubles you, google isn't a fan of the name you used. Hirth coupling gets the nod.
@occasionalmachinist6 күн бұрын
Don't know how you found that. As it's for a camera, I'll call it a Rosette gear (from Wikipedia)
@zoltannagy18137 күн бұрын
I'm eager to see what you come up with to eliminate (or at least reduce) the bounce. I'm just guessing perhaps a spring, counterweight or other mechanical idea.
@occasionalmachinist6 күн бұрын
I'm keen to firm up the hinge as its an experiment, and a bit of a lash up. I may also put some depth on my trusses and try to reduce twist that way. It works as is, so plenty of time for thought. A counterweight or spring might reduce the twist a bit, but I need a dampener really. I'll have to see what devilishly intricate and overly complex solution I can come up with.
@TheUncleRuckus7 күн бұрын
Nothing to say just an obligatory boost for the algorithm. 👍👍
@occasionalmachinist6 күн бұрын
Thanks.
@guye77637 күн бұрын
You are my main viewing! 🤒 and you are just down the road!
@occasionalmachinist6 күн бұрын
Thanks.
@RG-At-Large7 күн бұрын
Cool idea. I had a thought how to help reduce the bounce by connecting a cable from the end of the support to a pulley connected to a swivel above the primary support connection on the wall with a weight on the other end of the cable. This would provide an adjustable counterweight for the camera while still allowing a full range of motion.
@occasionalmachinist7 күн бұрын
Bounce is a problem. I'm still thinking about that one. The boom is usable, but I may need to remake the hinge. Being a welded construction of commercial hinges, it's a little loose.
@paulbyerlee25297 күн бұрын
Do you know the formula based on the diameter and the number of teeth to determine the angle of offset required. I know it's possible to cheat with cad but I'm not familiar with cad software. Thanks.
@occasionalmachinist7 күн бұрын
It takes a bit of geometric thinking, but I work out the circumference of the part and divide by the number of teeth. Because it is a 90 degree tooth, the mid-plane distance between teeth is twice the distance from the mid plane to the bottom of the tooth gullet (or a tooth tip). Knowing that mid plane to bottom gullet distance and the radius, angle= arctan(tooth gullet distance/radius).
@paulbyerlee25297 күн бұрын
@@occasionalmachinist Thanks for that 👍
@russelldold48275 күн бұрын
I've seen articles showing these used back-to-back with different pitches to give a low profile discrete movement rotary table. For example, coarse movement one way then fine movement either forward or backwards gives many more discrete movements.
@occasionalmachinist5 күн бұрын
@@russelldold4827 Interesting idea, although sounds like an added complication that most people would not use. Bit like an epicyclic gear box?
@darkwinter739512 күн бұрын
Can't you just grind a little bit off of the sides of the drill bit? 😜
@bryanhomann783712 күн бұрын
Spot on suggestions. I lashed out a bit over 20 years ago, on a Bridgeport. I started almost as per your suggestions. As time goes by, the mill will acquire more tooling as needs and funds permit. Of more recent years, I have become a big fan of the ER collets. With additional collet chuck mounts, these collets are always in use on the mill,or the lathe. This being particularly useful to allow moving a part (say a valve bonnet or special bolt ) that needs a concentric hexagon or square as well as a turned shaft. Those 4. 6 or 12 sided collet blocks are very useful too.
@occasionalmachinist12 күн бұрын
Mill tooling is one of those things where you can continuously ask where do you stop. The collet blocks are a good suggestion, although a bit specialised for starter tooling.
@bryanhomann783712 күн бұрын
@@occasionalmachinist I agree again. the collet blocks are not a beginners must have. I have been into model engineering for a bit over 60 years, and the gear that is readily available today for the home workshop is fantastic. I think 'where do you stop" depends pretty much on where you are going in the workshop, and expanding the kit of devices serves to improve capability, speed, and sometimes finish of projects. I think that KZread videos such as yours are really good at introducing newbies ( and oldies) to what is available, and what can be done with it at home. I am continually amazed at how much I depend on the mill. This was very evident earlier in the year when I had an electrical problem that took quite a while to sort out. My first "milling" was on the Myford super 7 with a vertical slide. That largely dealt with my first locomotive, so you don't need to start big. Anyway, it is good to see a workshop video that doesn't assume that you have everything on hand.
@graedonmunro179313 күн бұрын
it was a bit like cooking!
@RB-yq7qv14 күн бұрын
@TangentJim14 күн бұрын
Michael - Great Idea - Great Design - I can think of many uses. Two Thumbs up . -- Jim
@occasionalmachinist13 күн бұрын
It does come in handy. I'm glad I made it.
@TangentJim14 күн бұрын
Michael -- That was tedious work. The end result was good . I have a suggestion . A Rotary Table would make fast work of that job. Using a small end mill you could accurately machine the Diameter . You could also accurately machine the two flats . There would be a limited amount of filing to clean up the radius corners . I'm not a smart ass - I'm tryin to help . - Jim
@occasionalmachinist13 күн бұрын
You are right, and one day I'll finish up the little R/T so I can do that. The only one I have is 8" diameter, and for little things like this, getting it out seems a bit silly some time.
@TorteTS14 күн бұрын
Hmmm, nice but why not 2 plates and the sheet metal sandwiched between them? Otherwise in case of thin sheet metal it will bend during filing. Harden steel? For a file not a best friend. For a few holes don’t needed., in my opinion. Or is it for a higher run? Could be I don’t get it. ❤
@occasionalmachinist13 күн бұрын
A few bits of the story were edited out, but this is for 3mm thick Al panels, so bending is not a major concern. They are a pretty standard connector so for a one off, I would agree that it was more time consuming, but I expect to have to do one or two of these every few months, so over the next year, I think it will earn it's keep. If I had two plates, I'd also need some way to line them up. The steel is not really hard, just hard enough that I'm not going to accidentally file into the template. A small round file like the one used is relatively inexpensive and I'm only filing the Al till the feel changes, so I don't think I'm damaging the file in a major way. Thanks for asking though - it keeps me honest!
@TorteTS13 күн бұрын
@@occasionalmachinist Much appreciate your feedback, thank you.
@greaser569114 күн бұрын
A good solution. I recall Greenlee made a single-d punch for that size round connector, not sure about a double-d - a cursory search found a US engineering firm that custom-makes them- pretty pricey though. It was always nice to be able to borrow a punch for odd shaped holes like serial ports or IEC plugs, but most of my homebrew DB25 or DE9 panels or PC slot plates were drilled and filed by hand; a filing guide similar to yours would have taken most of the drudgery out of doing them. Greetings from the northern suburbs.
@occasionalmachinist14 күн бұрын
Yes - I think the next one that I do will be a 9 pin D - for some reason the 25 pin D connectors don't get used much these days (maybe all those pins that don't do anything...) One thing that in hind sight I should have done was put some cross hairs on the template for more precise positioning. There's always something.
@fxm571514 күн бұрын
It seems like you are more than 50% of the way to making a punch and die. Of course, I'm sure you can buy a punch and die for an industry standard hole, but what's the fun in that? Your chip tray caught my attention as soon as you cut to that shot. I like it!
@occasionalmachinist14 күн бұрын
I did think about a punch and die, but I would need a die set to hold them in just the right relationship, and Murphy's law says there will also be panels beyound the throat of the press. This is more low tech but more adaptable too. I try to make clean up as quick as possible, so I tend to have chip trays to collect the majority of the swarf if I can. The one for the mill is new, but the oil quench was done on the cabinet that sits under the drill table - the top is a removable chip tray too.
@fxm571514 күн бұрын
@@occasionalmachinist A rolling chip tray makes a lot of sense, too. You are always a source of interesting ideas. As far as a punch and die goes, I was thinking the kind with a bolt through the middle joining the two halves and which you use to drive the punch through the work, as opposed to the kind that goes in a press. They may not be as quick or as precise, but they are a lot more versatile! Thanks for sharing your work and your ideas.
@occasionalmachinist13 күн бұрын
@@fxm5715 Might work - the concern here is that the material these cutouts go into is 3mm Al. I'd be a bit concerned that the thickness would either snap bolts or just bog down (the cut out in question was 13.5mm across the flats so a bolt would likely be M6, perhaps M8)
@machinists-shortcuts13 күн бұрын
@@occasionalmachinistUse a piece of urethane as a die. No need to line up the the punch. A couple of example demos on my channel.
@fxm571513 күн бұрын
@@occasionalmachinist Agreed, 3mm in aluminum is a bit gummy for a punched hole that small, with an imprecise, underpowered punch.
@matthewweir526514 күн бұрын
Do you use anything special for tramming the head when your vice is on?
@occasionalmachinist14 күн бұрын
I tram with the vice removed. To do that I have a back plunger indicator (Starrett 196). They are great because you don't have to use mirrors or twist around when comparing side to side.
@rok147515 күн бұрын
There is really no need for the thread in the length adjustment block to be long. You could have drilled one side with clearance diameter for the tap. The button on a typical clamp is to spread the pressure and not damage the material. There is no danger of the adjustment screw damaging the bottom of the drill here. You could just hone the tip of the long adjustment screw slightly convex.
@occasionalmachinist15 күн бұрын
Yes, the tapped hole does not need to be that long, but I was trying to follow my Uncle's plans as closely as I could. The button is more important than you suggest, as the adjustment screw may not contact the backs of the range of drills that the sharpener will sharpen. A 12mm drill is straightforward, but say a 3mm will sit lower in the V and has a smaller potential contact area.
@rok147515 күн бұрын
I suppose if the jig was mounted on a base that could slide, it would work with a bench grinder?
@occasionalmachinist15 күн бұрын
Potentially. The chainsaw sharpener was relatively cheap though (around A$60 new) and makes everything self contained.
@graedonmunro179320 күн бұрын
looking forward to the 77 tooth episode, cheers good vid.
@RustyInventions-wz6ir21 күн бұрын
Very interesting. Good information. Going to help me allot when I get a mill
@paulrayner451421 күн бұрын
would like to see the universal head in action, inc the setup from the table. that would be an awesome video.
@occasionalmachinist21 күн бұрын
I'm intending to do that one day, but it's a matter of working out what to do with it. I do show some of that in my 'Gears with a twist' video, but the differential indexing is something I still have to do.
@paulrayner451421 күн бұрын
@@occasionalmachinist can't wait😁
@kelvinmears275921 күн бұрын
Not sure that cutters are, or are not accessories, but worthy of a similar discussion???
@occasionalmachinist21 күн бұрын
Cutters are tricky, as a lot of personal preference comes into it. I use mainly HSS on the mill but do have some carbide tipped versions. At one stage I had a multi insert cutter but got rid of it as (in my opinion) the tips were breaking far too often. I'll take the suggestion on notice though.
@Kryn-ie1vs21 күн бұрын
Thanks Michael, again a lot of useful information.
@occasionalmachinist21 күн бұрын
Hopefully it's useful to people
@DK-vx1zc21 күн бұрын
very interesting.. thanks for sharing
@occasionalmachinist21 күн бұрын
No probs.
@Tonioostendorp21 күн бұрын
I would love to see that Kaiser Piccolo in action, especially the automatic return!
@occasionalmachinist21 күн бұрын
I know it has a quick return. Haven't heard of an automatic return. I use the Piccolo most of the time when I'm boring; although it has the facing function I rarely use it for that. I'll take that suggestion on notice too.
@opieshomeshop21 күн бұрын
*_One thing I found I use all the time with my milling machine is a big bottle of Acme Elbow grease. You can find it online...._* 😆🤣
@occasionalmachinist21 күн бұрын
(I always thought elbow grease came in tins.) I do ask our purchasing guys at work when the large box of excitement is arriving, but they can never give me a firm date...
@opieshomeshop21 күн бұрын
@@occasionalmachinist 🤣😆😆🤣
@JB-ol4vz26 күн бұрын
Always a very nice job. As a hobby man, why not make the square and then bore to a press fit for the shaft? Cheers from Sweden 🇸🇪
@occasionalmachinist26 күн бұрын
LIke sleeving, that would be another way to do it. My concern with that is strength - the original part has a radius at the base to smooth out the stresses a bit. A straight shaft pressed into a hole would be prone to pulling out (the square part is only around 7mm think) and probably stress that area highly.
@graedonmunro179327 күн бұрын
nice vid, cheers
@occasionalmachinist27 күн бұрын
Thanks
@ianloy185427 күн бұрын
Love the work you go into to making a near identical replacement. I am almost surprised you didn't remake the adjusting screw (if the handle can be removed) so that everything become metric (the thread). No reason to other than it is further converted to metric. There are other ways to create this piece - for those that may want to think about other ways Sleeving of the piece, as suggested below and commented on below. Build up the surface by welding, need to make sure the surface for the weld allows for penetration (made a little smaller) and that the weld material is reasonably machinable. Of course it requires reasonable welding skill as well. Works well but feels HORRIBLE to do. (I wouldn't show it on a KZread video.....but hey maybe people that don't know how to do that sort of reclamation may like it....) Make it out of two parts. The square piece and the bar piece held together with a press fit, or threaded if that is felt to be easier. If desired it can be welded so that you can recreate the fillet if desired. Has the advantage that it takes away the intermittent cutting that is hard on the tools and lathe, and a whole lot of chips. For those in Aus mag-pro.com.au (no association) has 2" dial indicators for $35 - they may not be Mitutoyo - but for setting up on the lathe etc work well when you need a long stroke. $75 for 50mm if you really must have metric.
@marley58927 күн бұрын
Could the original be turned to 5/8" diameter and a 20mm tube pressed on?
@occasionalmachinist27 күн бұрын
In theory it could, but you would need to accurately bore the tube and turn the spigot, fit the sleeve well enough that it would not spin or come off then turn the OD accurately. That's 3 times more precision work than in making a new one.
@tates1127 күн бұрын
Drill + ream + groove a piece of 20mm rod 16mm and push on. The concentricity and position aren't important. Make this first then turn the original part to suit the bore.
@occasionalmachinist27 күн бұрын
@@tates11 You could try doing it that way, but I think you are over simplifying how it could be done. For example, if you groove the sleeve first and your fit is not right, will you end up crushing the groove? The spigot needs to be perpendicular to the axis of the pivot, otherwise thereis a risk of the blade not tracking properly. Sleeving would mean that a method would be needed to ensure that. There are considerations either way.
@tates1127 күн бұрын
As the spigot and tube are relatively long and not subjected to any significant relative forces I would use a slip fit and loctite. The geometric precision would come from clocking the original spigot in the 4 jaw chuck and reducing the diameter to a slip fit.
@624Dudley27 күн бұрын
Quite a good outcome 👍
@occasionalmachinist27 күн бұрын
We've taken it down to final size and it fits the bearings well, so 👍👍!
@smellsofbikes28 күн бұрын
I love how much the indicator is moving around when you're just lightly touching the xy table at the beginning, after measuring it, as those tiny point contacts creep about under mild pressure.
@occasionalmachinist27 күн бұрын
I mentioned this project to the guy who taught me to scrape, and after watching the video, be commented that I have far more patience than he does...
@smellsofbikes27 күн бұрын
@@occasionalmachinist As someone who scrapes a little, I think there's value to putting a whole bunch of time into a cheap wreck and cranking up your skills. I'd be scared to touch a valuable but worn machine tool. But an import table? Fantastic, and a great demonstration of how much you can improve it.
@occasionalmachinist26 күн бұрын
@@smellsofbikes Thanks! It's actually a good size for turning into a silk purse.
@zoltannagy181328 күн бұрын
Nice result.
@occasionalmachinist27 күн бұрын
Thanks
@steamwhisperer28 күн бұрын
Nice work as usual Michael. Have you thought about using a wobbler when lining up a centre punch mark? I find it negates any misalignment or wear in the tailstock method. I would post a pic but I can't find a way😊
@occasionalmachinist27 күн бұрын
I have thought about making up a wobbler, but every time I start considering it, I can never find a job that I would use it for. Perhaps I should make one just for those jobs that are never apparent at the time.
@steamwhisperer27 күн бұрын
Yep mine gathers enormous amounts of dust but very handy when I need it
@Kryn-ie1vs28 күн бұрын
As per usual, excellent work and a handy tip ,re depth of circlip groove.
@occasionalmachinist28 күн бұрын
Thanks. Circlips are one of those parts that are really easy to not get to work properly.
@graedonmunro1793Ай бұрын
nice beefy looking unit!!
@occasionalmachinistАй бұрын
It's as heavy as it needs to be but heavier than I would like. While it should work for the (assumed) intended purpose, it's not the sort of thing that I would think is convenient enough for general use
@ericparsonage7938Ай бұрын
Excellent as always. Was the socket chrome plated?
@occasionalmachinistАй бұрын
Maybe originally, but I emery'd a health dose of rust off.
@TheUncleRuckusАй бұрын
Lol the BlondieHacks reference game me a chuckle. 👍👍
Пікірлер
Love the explanations. The thin wall machining shows why 6 jaw chucks exist. Not that they make things perfect - there is still a gap between the jaws - but they are better than a 3 jaw. Obviously a collet would be better again - particularly an ER type (or similar) rather than a 5C, but of course NEVER for black stock.
Nicely explained. The thing has a hole through it to allow the adjuster so the bushing idea was a nonstarter.
Very well explained Mr. Thanks for your informative films. Cheers from Sweden.
No problems - the stuff in there is the sort of thing that is learnt by experience and rarely spoken of.
*_I must have missed a past video. Why not just make a whole new part?_*
I did - it's the video entitled "Look what the metric system made me do", but I got a couple of comments suggesting making a whole new part was not the easiest way of doing things. This is an explanation of the issues that those ideas may have problems attached to them.
@@occasionalmachinist Ok I get it now, I think. I don't know why your friend wanted to change to a metric in the first place. If it isn't broke, why fix it? As far as everything you said in this video, I agree.
@@opieshomeshop It was originally 20mm but a previous "fix" converted it to ¾" and the bores in the band wheel modified to suit an imperial bearing. That ended up as a failure so this was taking it back to the original specification.
@@ericparsonage7938 I see. Thanks for clearing that up. 👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣👣
Very interesting. Nice work sir
Thanks.
sometime called a Radial Spline Coupling or a Hirth coupling.
Any plans on sharing the drawings? I'd be keen to have a copy of you ever choose to upload or email them.
There are additional videos about the sharpener where I build a copy (others also wanted the drawings, but I had not gone through and checked them, so this was the simplest way). The drawings are scattered through the videos as needed. I did find a couple of errors and some things that I thought could have been done differently/ more efficiently, so that is in there too. A couple of people I know have made them and used them, so it seems to work.
I've only recently stumbled upon your channel and am working my way through all the previous videos. This is a fantastic little machine. I'd love to reproduce it one day as I have Kgs of bits needing sharpening (All rescued from a workshop with no-one who knew how to hand sharpen, so they were used within an inch of their life and swapped for new.) I can happily sharpen by hand with pretty good results, but I'm not keen on how many hours of full concentration all the dead ones would take.
That is the nice thing about a device like this
Great tip about the plastic duplicate, I have a use for that. Cheers.
I've done it, and successfully, but it needs care with heating the steel blank - too hot and the plastic melts out, too cold and it does not form the teeth. If you have an IR contactless thermometer, that could be a great help.
interesting 👍
very clever hinges!! looking like a movie set now, nice use of the sidchrome box(LOL) cheers👍👍
I've had that box for close to 40 years now. Normally there is a piece of paper over the top, but it gets used quite a bit as it is just a nice height for standing.
For those thinking about the bounce I'm getting, the problem is in twisting. The trusses are plenty stiff in the plane they are in, but when the final section is at an angle to the first section, the first section is being twisted by the weight of the final section being out of the plane of the truss. A counterweight would reduce the twist, but would not necessarily help with torsional stiffness. I think I can stiffen the truss slightly and that might help. It's not helped by the hinge pins not being coaxial. For that I will have to make a custom hinge with the pins joined. While the hinges don't directly make the boom end bounce, they are sagging and that is not helping
If it troubles you, google isn't a fan of the name you used. Hirth coupling gets the nod.
Don't know how you found that. As it's for a camera, I'll call it a Rosette gear (from Wikipedia)
I'm eager to see what you come up with to eliminate (or at least reduce) the bounce. I'm just guessing perhaps a spring, counterweight or other mechanical idea.
I'm keen to firm up the hinge as its an experiment, and a bit of a lash up. I may also put some depth on my trusses and try to reduce twist that way. It works as is, so plenty of time for thought. A counterweight or spring might reduce the twist a bit, but I need a dampener really. I'll have to see what devilishly intricate and overly complex solution I can come up with.
Nothing to say just an obligatory boost for the algorithm. 👍👍
Thanks.
You are my main viewing! 🤒 and you are just down the road!
Thanks.
Cool idea. I had a thought how to help reduce the bounce by connecting a cable from the end of the support to a pulley connected to a swivel above the primary support connection on the wall with a weight on the other end of the cable. This would provide an adjustable counterweight for the camera while still allowing a full range of motion.
Bounce is a problem. I'm still thinking about that one. The boom is usable, but I may need to remake the hinge. Being a welded construction of commercial hinges, it's a little loose.
Do you know the formula based on the diameter and the number of teeth to determine the angle of offset required. I know it's possible to cheat with cad but I'm not familiar with cad software. Thanks.
It takes a bit of geometric thinking, but I work out the circumference of the part and divide by the number of teeth. Because it is a 90 degree tooth, the mid-plane distance between teeth is twice the distance from the mid plane to the bottom of the tooth gullet (or a tooth tip). Knowing that mid plane to bottom gullet distance and the radius, angle= arctan(tooth gullet distance/radius).
@@occasionalmachinist Thanks for that 👍
I've seen articles showing these used back-to-back with different pitches to give a low profile discrete movement rotary table. For example, coarse movement one way then fine movement either forward or backwards gives many more discrete movements.
@@russelldold4827 Interesting idea, although sounds like an added complication that most people would not use. Bit like an epicyclic gear box?
Can't you just grind a little bit off of the sides of the drill bit? 😜
Spot on suggestions. I lashed out a bit over 20 years ago, on a Bridgeport. I started almost as per your suggestions. As time goes by, the mill will acquire more tooling as needs and funds permit. Of more recent years, I have become a big fan of the ER collets. With additional collet chuck mounts, these collets are always in use on the mill,or the lathe. This being particularly useful to allow moving a part (say a valve bonnet or special bolt ) that needs a concentric hexagon or square as well as a turned shaft. Those 4. 6 or 12 sided collet blocks are very useful too.
Mill tooling is one of those things where you can continuously ask where do you stop. The collet blocks are a good suggestion, although a bit specialised for starter tooling.
@@occasionalmachinist I agree again. the collet blocks are not a beginners must have. I have been into model engineering for a bit over 60 years, and the gear that is readily available today for the home workshop is fantastic. I think 'where do you stop" depends pretty much on where you are going in the workshop, and expanding the kit of devices serves to improve capability, speed, and sometimes finish of projects. I think that KZread videos such as yours are really good at introducing newbies ( and oldies) to what is available, and what can be done with it at home. I am continually amazed at how much I depend on the mill. This was very evident earlier in the year when I had an electrical problem that took quite a while to sort out. My first "milling" was on the Myford super 7 with a vertical slide. That largely dealt with my first locomotive, so you don't need to start big. Anyway, it is good to see a workshop video that doesn't assume that you have everything on hand.
it was a bit like cooking!
Michael - Great Idea - Great Design - I can think of many uses. Two Thumbs up . -- Jim
It does come in handy. I'm glad I made it.
Michael -- That was tedious work. The end result was good . I have a suggestion . A Rotary Table would make fast work of that job. Using a small end mill you could accurately machine the Diameter . You could also accurately machine the two flats . There would be a limited amount of filing to clean up the radius corners . I'm not a smart ass - I'm tryin to help . - Jim
You are right, and one day I'll finish up the little R/T so I can do that. The only one I have is 8" diameter, and for little things like this, getting it out seems a bit silly some time.
Hmmm, nice but why not 2 plates and the sheet metal sandwiched between them? Otherwise in case of thin sheet metal it will bend during filing. Harden steel? For a file not a best friend. For a few holes don’t needed., in my opinion. Or is it for a higher run? Could be I don’t get it. ❤
A few bits of the story were edited out, but this is for 3mm thick Al panels, so bending is not a major concern. They are a pretty standard connector so for a one off, I would agree that it was more time consuming, but I expect to have to do one or two of these every few months, so over the next year, I think it will earn it's keep. If I had two plates, I'd also need some way to line them up. The steel is not really hard, just hard enough that I'm not going to accidentally file into the template. A small round file like the one used is relatively inexpensive and I'm only filing the Al till the feel changes, so I don't think I'm damaging the file in a major way. Thanks for asking though - it keeps me honest!
@@occasionalmachinist Much appreciate your feedback, thank you.
A good solution. I recall Greenlee made a single-d punch for that size round connector, not sure about a double-d - a cursory search found a US engineering firm that custom-makes them- pretty pricey though. It was always nice to be able to borrow a punch for odd shaped holes like serial ports or IEC plugs, but most of my homebrew DB25 or DE9 panels or PC slot plates were drilled and filed by hand; a filing guide similar to yours would have taken most of the drudgery out of doing them. Greetings from the northern suburbs.
Yes - I think the next one that I do will be a 9 pin D - for some reason the 25 pin D connectors don't get used much these days (maybe all those pins that don't do anything...) One thing that in hind sight I should have done was put some cross hairs on the template for more precise positioning. There's always something.
It seems like you are more than 50% of the way to making a punch and die. Of course, I'm sure you can buy a punch and die for an industry standard hole, but what's the fun in that? Your chip tray caught my attention as soon as you cut to that shot. I like it!
I did think about a punch and die, but I would need a die set to hold them in just the right relationship, and Murphy's law says there will also be panels beyound the throat of the press. This is more low tech but more adaptable too. I try to make clean up as quick as possible, so I tend to have chip trays to collect the majority of the swarf if I can. The one for the mill is new, but the oil quench was done on the cabinet that sits under the drill table - the top is a removable chip tray too.
@@occasionalmachinist A rolling chip tray makes a lot of sense, too. You are always a source of interesting ideas. As far as a punch and die goes, I was thinking the kind with a bolt through the middle joining the two halves and which you use to drive the punch through the work, as opposed to the kind that goes in a press. They may not be as quick or as precise, but they are a lot more versatile! Thanks for sharing your work and your ideas.
@@fxm5715 Might work - the concern here is that the material these cutouts go into is 3mm Al. I'd be a bit concerned that the thickness would either snap bolts or just bog down (the cut out in question was 13.5mm across the flats so a bolt would likely be M6, perhaps M8)
@@occasionalmachinistUse a piece of urethane as a die. No need to line up the the punch. A couple of example demos on my channel.
@@occasionalmachinist Agreed, 3mm in aluminum is a bit gummy for a punched hole that small, with an imprecise, underpowered punch.
Do you use anything special for tramming the head when your vice is on?
I tram with the vice removed. To do that I have a back plunger indicator (Starrett 196). They are great because you don't have to use mirrors or twist around when comparing side to side.
There is really no need for the thread in the length adjustment block to be long. You could have drilled one side with clearance diameter for the tap. The button on a typical clamp is to spread the pressure and not damage the material. There is no danger of the adjustment screw damaging the bottom of the drill here. You could just hone the tip of the long adjustment screw slightly convex.
Yes, the tapped hole does not need to be that long, but I was trying to follow my Uncle's plans as closely as I could. The button is more important than you suggest, as the adjustment screw may not contact the backs of the range of drills that the sharpener will sharpen. A 12mm drill is straightforward, but say a 3mm will sit lower in the V and has a smaller potential contact area.
I suppose if the jig was mounted on a base that could slide, it would work with a bench grinder?
Potentially. The chainsaw sharpener was relatively cheap though (around A$60 new) and makes everything self contained.
looking forward to the 77 tooth episode, cheers good vid.
Very interesting. Good information. Going to help me allot when I get a mill
would like to see the universal head in action, inc the setup from the table. that would be an awesome video.
I'm intending to do that one day, but it's a matter of working out what to do with it. I do show some of that in my 'Gears with a twist' video, but the differential indexing is something I still have to do.
@@occasionalmachinist can't wait😁
Not sure that cutters are, or are not accessories, but worthy of a similar discussion???
Cutters are tricky, as a lot of personal preference comes into it. I use mainly HSS on the mill but do have some carbide tipped versions. At one stage I had a multi insert cutter but got rid of it as (in my opinion) the tips were breaking far too often. I'll take the suggestion on notice though.
Thanks Michael, again a lot of useful information.
Hopefully it's useful to people
very interesting.. thanks for sharing
No probs.
I would love to see that Kaiser Piccolo in action, especially the automatic return!
I know it has a quick return. Haven't heard of an automatic return. I use the Piccolo most of the time when I'm boring; although it has the facing function I rarely use it for that. I'll take that suggestion on notice too.
*_One thing I found I use all the time with my milling machine is a big bottle of Acme Elbow grease. You can find it online...._* 😆🤣
(I always thought elbow grease came in tins.) I do ask our purchasing guys at work when the large box of excitement is arriving, but they can never give me a firm date...
@@occasionalmachinist 🤣😆😆🤣
Always a very nice job. As a hobby man, why not make the square and then bore to a press fit for the shaft? Cheers from Sweden 🇸🇪
LIke sleeving, that would be another way to do it. My concern with that is strength - the original part has a radius at the base to smooth out the stresses a bit. A straight shaft pressed into a hole would be prone to pulling out (the square part is only around 7mm think) and probably stress that area highly.
nice vid, cheers
Thanks
Love the work you go into to making a near identical replacement. I am almost surprised you didn't remake the adjusting screw (if the handle can be removed) so that everything become metric (the thread). No reason to other than it is further converted to metric. There are other ways to create this piece - for those that may want to think about other ways Sleeving of the piece, as suggested below and commented on below. Build up the surface by welding, need to make sure the surface for the weld allows for penetration (made a little smaller) and that the weld material is reasonably machinable. Of course it requires reasonable welding skill as well. Works well but feels HORRIBLE to do. (I wouldn't show it on a KZread video.....but hey maybe people that don't know how to do that sort of reclamation may like it....) Make it out of two parts. The square piece and the bar piece held together with a press fit, or threaded if that is felt to be easier. If desired it can be welded so that you can recreate the fillet if desired. Has the advantage that it takes away the intermittent cutting that is hard on the tools and lathe, and a whole lot of chips. For those in Aus mag-pro.com.au (no association) has 2" dial indicators for $35 - they may not be Mitutoyo - but for setting up on the lathe etc work well when you need a long stroke. $75 for 50mm if you really must have metric.
Could the original be turned to 5/8" diameter and a 20mm tube pressed on?
In theory it could, but you would need to accurately bore the tube and turn the spigot, fit the sleeve well enough that it would not spin or come off then turn the OD accurately. That's 3 times more precision work than in making a new one.
Drill + ream + groove a piece of 20mm rod 16mm and push on. The concentricity and position aren't important. Make this first then turn the original part to suit the bore.
@@tates11 You could try doing it that way, but I think you are over simplifying how it could be done. For example, if you groove the sleeve first and your fit is not right, will you end up crushing the groove? The spigot needs to be perpendicular to the axis of the pivot, otherwise thereis a risk of the blade not tracking properly. Sleeving would mean that a method would be needed to ensure that. There are considerations either way.
As the spigot and tube are relatively long and not subjected to any significant relative forces I would use a slip fit and loctite. The geometric precision would come from clocking the original spigot in the 4 jaw chuck and reducing the diameter to a slip fit.
Quite a good outcome 👍
We've taken it down to final size and it fits the bearings well, so 👍👍!
I love how much the indicator is moving around when you're just lightly touching the xy table at the beginning, after measuring it, as those tiny point contacts creep about under mild pressure.
I mentioned this project to the guy who taught me to scrape, and after watching the video, be commented that I have far more patience than he does...
@@occasionalmachinist As someone who scrapes a little, I think there's value to putting a whole bunch of time into a cheap wreck and cranking up your skills. I'd be scared to touch a valuable but worn machine tool. But an import table? Fantastic, and a great demonstration of how much you can improve it.
@@smellsofbikes Thanks! It's actually a good size for turning into a silk purse.
Nice result.
Thanks
Nice work as usual Michael. Have you thought about using a wobbler when lining up a centre punch mark? I find it negates any misalignment or wear in the tailstock method. I would post a pic but I can't find a way😊
I have thought about making up a wobbler, but every time I start considering it, I can never find a job that I would use it for. Perhaps I should make one just for those jobs that are never apparent at the time.
Yep mine gathers enormous amounts of dust but very handy when I need it
As per usual, excellent work and a handy tip ,re depth of circlip groove.
Thanks. Circlips are one of those parts that are really easy to not get to work properly.
nice beefy looking unit!!
It's as heavy as it needs to be but heavier than I would like. While it should work for the (assumed) intended purpose, it's not the sort of thing that I would think is convenient enough for general use
Excellent as always. Was the socket chrome plated?
Maybe originally, but I emery'd a health dose of rust off.
Lol the BlondieHacks reference game me a chuckle. 👍👍
The games KZread machinists play...