This channel is put together by ILR Performance to share what we do and to share the 45 years of experience in the Motorcycle/ATV and Snowmobile performance business.
Great conversion! I would love to be able to do the exact same thing. What websites or resources did you use to be able to successfully perform the CNC retrofit? Conversion kit, controller schematics, and BOM items to start. Thank yoU!
@ilrperformance7152Күн бұрын
Honestly it wasn't real hard. I was originally going to go with servo motors but once I decided on close loop steppers I went straight to Leadshine and bought their kits. Motor, power supply and driver in one stop. Then once I chose the Acorn board they have all the schematics you could possibly want so I just followed those. The little stuff was mostly me being anal and I wanted a really clean install so I went with DIN rails and wire guides to keep it clean. Tuning it in to be accurate is more time consuming.
@fonseymarv6438Күн бұрын
@@ilrperformance7152 Great insight, I do appreciate the reply. Been looking into government auctions for Bridgeport knee mills since I saw your video. Thank you for the prompt reply. I will go ahead and go to those sites and begin my research to build it all in CAD before pulling the trigger.
@rufustoad1Ай бұрын
This is nice. I am scared but contemplating doing this. I just found a J1 that is a good candidate. Any reason you picked Acorn over MACH? You only have a few months on this build?
@ilrperformance715224 күн бұрын
I picked the Acorn after doing a lot of research and talking to several users. The makers of the Acorn board build turn key CNC machines so they know the interfaces well and they provide really good hook up instructions for so many configurations. Hook up went pretty well and each thing I add on has not been much work to get integrated. It has been a couple years now since I did the conversion without any problems. But like all projects it has evolved and gotten some additional mods.
@fixyourautomobileАй бұрын
Have any resources or spare parts for the water brake? I've come up with a solution for the constant bearing failure due to water intrusion. Let me know if you're battling the same issues. I am running much more powerful engines though.
@ilrperformance715224 күн бұрын
I have bigger bearings already so I haven't had any issues all the way up to just shy of 200 Ft/lb. I do grease them regularly so I don't have water issues. It's a pretty reliable brake so I haven't really had much repair required. I have a full machine shop so I usually just make anything I need to replace. Only part I'm a little worried about is losing the PC interface board but if I do I'll deal with it then.
@fixyourautomobile23 күн бұрын
@@ilrperformance7152 I've lost the weather station features and have to enter it all pressures manually now
@Trench_God_932 ай бұрын
Amazing videos man. Thank you! In the process of this right now and these rebuild videos are tremendous help! 💯🤘
@ilrperformance7152Күн бұрын
Glad you like them!
@TheZmoney4202 ай бұрын
Is that a cr manifold?
@ilrperformance715224 күн бұрын
Aftermarkets large intake for a TRX.
@mrkhalid23573 ай бұрын
Timing Belt and Pulley you used
@ilrperformance715224 күн бұрын
I used a 5mm pitch HTD belt and 2 /1 sprockets. Since the Bridgeport moves .200" per rev on the table it was really easy to dial in the distance per motor rev.
@kbwfgg64005 ай бұрын
Can you disclose what kind of cost to expect to convert one of these machines to CNC? I am looking at either buying a new manual/CNC machine for about $15k (CNC Masters) or I can get an old BridgePort about $3K to $6K and convert it. Old American iron would probably be a much more substantial machine than a new one but also an overkill for my needs.
@ilrperformance71525 ай бұрын
I did all of the research, bought the parts and did all of the assembly, so I'm into the whole CNC conversions right at about$1500.00. But honestly I didn't add every item up, some stuff I had here in the shop. I wanted a very heavy commercial Bridegeport for the stability. The newer clones or the smaller mills were just not rigid enough for my liking.
@kbwfgg64005 ай бұрын
Thank you so much. I have decided to get an old BridgePort and recondition it. It will come out much cheaper and I believe I will end up with a better machine, plus the fun of rebuilding it. It looks like I can get a decent one for about $3K to $4K, about $5K to $6K for one that has 2 or 3 axis control. I would of course update all the electronics. From what I understand your machine had two axis motorized. You did not show how you converted the third (I guess the Z) to motorized. Can you show that? I am looking to do very similar to what you have. I am new to the whole vertical mill thing and machining but will be starting to put together a small machine shop at my home for personal use. If I start with a manual bridgePort, can I convert it to a full CNC or would it be much better for me to start with a bridgePort that is already 2 or 3 axis motorized. I do want the option to switch from CNC to manual as well. I think that if I find a decent 2 or 3 axis CNC BP, I would have to pay a little more upfront but the conversion may cost less? But, like I said, I am new to this so I don't know much. Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks for responding to my inquiry.@@ilrperformance7152
@6milesup5 ай бұрын
How are you getting the third axis? Are you driving the knee? I going to convert my Sharp mill from 2 axis to 3 axis, but I think that I am going to use the quill for the third axis.
@ilrperformance71525 ай бұрын
yes. The Bridgeport already has power quill feed and I didn't want to change that so I use the knee for the Z axis. It' so heavy its real smooth up and down.
@courseydl5 ай бұрын
Awesome work Dave, I'm sure I'll be getting ahold of you soon, I finally got bored with the 450 motor in my tecate, time to go back to a 2 stroke.
@ilrperformance71525 ай бұрын
just let me know
@cnckeith5 ай бұрын
Nice! Thanks for posting. Great explanation.
@ilrperformance71525 ай бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@davebliss76425 ай бұрын
Great job! Could you share the part numbers for your build? I am upgrading an old Bridgeport CNC upgrade too and it sounds like you are very happy with the system.
@ilrperformance71525 ай бұрын
If I get a chance I'll gather up all of the parts that I bought. Took me a few months and lots of research but yes I'm real happy with the Lead Shine steppers kits paired with the Centroid controller. The Centroid pendant that I added later was a few minute set up.
@jamesfmforce67904 ай бұрын
Awesome content, suscribed
@72cheyennesuper5 ай бұрын
I wish the LT500 motor fit with as much room as this KX500 has! I know the LT500 has the addition of a counter-balancer ahead of the crank, but the overall size is massive compared to this. Nice work, as usual!
@darrylplants94545 ай бұрын
I love an old knee mill! Super sweet! 0 backlash! 🙌
@ilrperformance71525 ай бұрын
It's really solid. Cuts way heavier than I'm brave enough to try
@hlpang10756 ай бұрын
This series is so good I gotta watch it a few times to remember all the tips!
@ilrperformance71525 ай бұрын
Thank you
@hlpang10756 ай бұрын
Awesome content and details! Subscribed!
@ilrperformance71525 ай бұрын
Thank you
@TheJesusno26 ай бұрын
This is gonna be rad!
@RonFinlay16 ай бұрын
Can you share homing, as to the position of the table. I'm converting my floor standing knee mill and want to place my proximity switches in the right place.
@ilrperformance71526 ай бұрын
I put my homing switches to set the table almost full positive X, mid travel Y and 12" down on Z (my knee is my Z axis). That gives me the table room I need for set up and for part removal, then I translate to the part coordinate system and machine in those coords.
@rocketbob6 ай бұрын
Very nicely done. I have a BP S1 I converted to Mach3 several years ago and want to convert to close loop steppers and Acorn. Any thoughts on how to keep the steppers from back generating when running the machine with the crank handles?
@ilrperformance71526 ай бұрын
The steppers I used have so much breaking when powered up you can't turn the cranks without breaking something. I bought Centroids wireless pendant (which was amazingly easy to install) so I just crank the pendant and put the table anywhere I want. I didn't plan on a pendant, but now that I have it I would not want to be without it. I can literally move the table in .001" increments when I need to, or up the speed and t moves damn fast.
@user-mh9fv5ts3y6 ай бұрын
I have Hardinge 2007 2 axis cnc mill with an ez vision controller. This mill looks identical to the one in your video. The machine it’s self is in great shape, but the ez vision controller quite working. This is a common issue with the e vision controller. I would like to retrofit this machine into a 3 axis cnc mill with the quill as my 3rd axis. Do you have a video of your work that you done on your machine, or advise me on what I should do if you were me. What would it cost to do this myself and what would cost for me to have it done. Because my machine is identical to yours would you be intrested in taking this on. Your thought would be greatly appreciated.
@ilrperformance71526 ай бұрын
Depends on what you have now for lead screws and X, Y and Z drives. You need good ball screws but if it was already NC it may have good screws. If it is a Bridgeport clone the spindle probably already has power down-feed so you'd need to disable a fair amount of the gear drives for that and replace with a stepper or servo. I chose to make my Z the knee. That way I still have the quill power feed but the Z has CNC control thru the knee. My A axis is a removable rotary table.
@joell4396 ай бұрын
Definitely worth the money 🎉
@ilrperformance71526 ай бұрын
I'm really happy to add that ability.
@bobbydavis56147 ай бұрын
Do you still have the old motors ?
@ilrperformance71527 ай бұрын
I have the original 2 servo motors and all of the cabinet and electronics
@bobbydavis56147 ай бұрын
@@ilrperformance7152 I am interested in purchasing them. My mill has had motors removed should I contact you at your web site?
@tomstrum62597 ай бұрын
Real nice design & implementation.....At 08:20, why is the Torque/Strain Sensor located so close to the Shaft axis ?? .....Usually the 1 piece Torque generator Cell is located 12" away from Shaft Centerline.....
@ilrperformance71527 ай бұрын
The torque sensor is in the torque limiting arm itself. As the load is applied it flexes the blue arm and that produces the torque measurement. It's actually 12.00 inches from the center of the rotating shaft to the stationary pin that holds the torque rod. I didn't have to be exactly 12" but it makes calibration and mass compensation a little easier.
@Trench_God_937 ай бұрын
Keep up the good work brother. We need more of you around lol
@ilrperformance71527 ай бұрын
Thanks! Will do!
@Rusty-Brown_7 ай бұрын
*********IS THAT A NO POWER VALVE CYL ???? AND WHAT YEAR ENGINE ???*********
@ilrperformance71527 ай бұрын
Correct, that cylinder doesn't have a power valve. It's an LA Sleeve 330 big bore cylinder originally but it been punched out to take the bigger sleeve.
@flintstoneengineering7 ай бұрын
Good stuff! A dyno tour and some of your theories on good break in/run in practice would be appreciated if you ever have time. Thanks for sharing.
@ilrperformance71527 ай бұрын
I have an older dyno tour video posted but it doesn't get too many hits.
@tensixtythreevideo7 ай бұрын
Wow David that is sweet!
@ilrperformance71527 ай бұрын
Thanks
@DowneastTackle7 ай бұрын
Love the videos, Great info thanks
@ilrperformance71527 ай бұрын
Thanks for watching!
@ronbown38367 ай бұрын
What size stepper motor are you running on the knee? They have quite a few selections on stepper motors they go by Oz or newton meters. Nema 34 to nama 42.
@ilrperformance71527 ай бұрын
I used NEMA34 closed loop steppers, 9.0 Nm on all axis. They are more that I need on X and Y but pretty decent on Z. I don't lift a lot of big steel items on the knee though. Mostly make aluminum parts. If I needed more power I can change the 2:1 drive do a 3:1 drive and probably nothing would stop it before the drive nut broke.
@user-lv5ij3zn9w7 ай бұрын
Its not a knee mill, its a turret mill
@ilrperformance71527 ай бұрын
Just curious why you believe that it's not a knee mill? Only asking because the paperwork I have with it and the repair manual call it a Bridgeport Series 2 Knee Mill.
@tamachining6 ай бұрын
But it has a knee…
@jasonbridget64838 ай бұрын
Where did you get your ring gear? I need one!
@ilrperformance71527 ай бұрын
I made it
@DeepSixCycles8 ай бұрын
One day I'll switch my Eagle/Anilam over from mach 4 to centroid. I rather like my mori sl1h oak retrofit. Centoid with a touch screen is so very pleasant to operate.
@ilrperformance71527 ай бұрын
I have found the Centroid to be a very good option. A lot of features and great support. Didn't really like Mach 4 on my router.
@annoorkhan42198 ай бұрын
Did you change the ball screw?
@ilrperformance71528 ай бұрын
This started out as 2 axis CNC from Bridgeport so It has ball screws in X and Y already. I have not changed the Z to ball screw and so far it works fine since the weight of the knee minimizes backlash. The Acorn CNC has backlash compensation as well.
@minibikemadman8 ай бұрын
motul ftw . i run it with 110 leaded in my 88 trx250r.
@ilrperformance71527 ай бұрын
Yeah the Motul has proven to be a really good dyno premix oil. Lots of good options but I've pushed a few engines too hard and never had a lube failure yet.
@minibikemadman8 ай бұрын
man thats amazing cutting your own ports into a blank sleeve..my mind is blown haha im looking for a 363 top end with a cpi cylinder. Do you have a webpage?
@ilrperformance71528 ай бұрын
ilrperformance.com
@vintagetrikesandquads40129 ай бұрын
I'm curious what paint you use on the engine. Is that powder coat or rattle can--and what brand? It is hard to find a black that has the OEM gloss. They are either too glossy or too matte.
@ilrperformance71529 ай бұрын
Its a catalyzed urethane satin black from PPG
@christhalassinos55749 ай бұрын
From witch model of 250 Honda is that cylinder?
@ilrperformance71529 ай бұрын
That cylinder came of of an ATC250R, but it's exactly the same as the TRX250R. It is not an OEM Honda cylinder though. That is an LA Sleeve casting.
@mrbean66949 ай бұрын
I have a nearly Identical build on a YCM-30 mill. Currently battling with a way to get the control system to account for the low / back gear of the head in order to spin the motor in the opposite direction. Do you use the low gear at all?
@ilrperformance71529 ай бұрын
Ah, yes that was something I learned along the way. In high gear the spindle turns one way, but it turns the opposite way in low gear because of the gear reduction they use. I thought that my VFD was giving me grief and switching output on the 3 phase. I just set the VFD to run clockwise when I'm in high and counterclockwise when I'm in low.
@Tobys2strokes9 ай бұрын
I want to see you add a counterbalance shaft to it. if anybody could I know you could
@ilrperformance71529 ай бұрын
Adding a counter balancer is do-able but it's a huge amount of work. Been a long time since I did one of those.
@Tobys2strokes9 ай бұрын
mine didn't vibrate near as bad as some I've seen . make sure the crank is balanced it will probably be fine.@@ilrperformance7152
@vintagetrikesandquads40129 ай бұрын
This is going to be an interesting project. I don't think I've ever seen a kx 500 engine put in a KFX. The pipe will probably be a challenge but I'm sure it will rip.
@ilrperformance71529 ай бұрын
Yeah, the pipe was "fun" to fit into the chassis.
@adrianulibarri59359 ай бұрын
Do you have any experience with the CPI lynx 380? If so, how is the ride ability? Is it too much? I questioned a guy at the dunes about his puma and he said he wished he’d just stayed with the stock trx250r cylinder.
@ilrperformance71529 ай бұрын
Just depends on your goals. If you want a fun ATV to ride day after day for years the stock or the LA Sleeve cylinders are really hard to beat. But they have limits and the CPI does give you more available area to get bigger gains. Big bores on stock cylinders work good with upgrade parts for stock motors (38 and 39mm carbs, reeds, pipes etc). Aftermarket big bore cylinders need bigger carbs, custom pipes and reeds - everything costs more to get more.
@TheJesusno210 ай бұрын
Love it may be a dumb question but how did you hold that cylinder head to the plate?
@ilrperformance715210 ай бұрын
I thread 3 of the cylinder stud holes and bolt it to the plate from the top using the spacers. Tapped holes have to be really straight or it wobbles all over but I drill and tap them in the CNC mill.
@vintagetrikesandquads401210 ай бұрын
I have a Pro Design cool head, can you modify those domes to work with the 310? What the price to change a 250 into a big bore?
@ilrperformance715210 ай бұрын
Yep. I do a lot of cool head dome mods for the 310's. Those are nice because the plug is on center. Message me on Facebook at either David Roberts or the ILR Performance page and let me know what you have now and I can give you a price. I keep sleeves and pistons in stock all the time.
@ceaserthethird10 ай бұрын
Love your detailed information and videos. Big fan of the ATC / TRX 250R’s. Love to see more videos of the 250R motor stock and big bores break downs and inspections etc. Keep up the excellent work!
@ilrperformance715210 ай бұрын
If I get enough subscribers I'll make more videos.
@alfonznagy910 ай бұрын
Hi, where can I get a big bore piston?
@ilrperformance715210 ай бұрын
big bore for what engine and for what bore size?
@alfonznagy910 ай бұрын
@@ilrperformance7152 Kawasaki kx 250 1991 73mm
@Trench_God_9310 ай бұрын
Your content is amazing!!! Keep up the good work and keep working on tecates lol I just got one and your videos are a life saver to somebody figuring things out as they go
@ilrperformance715210 ай бұрын
Thank you
@robstrunk81710 ай бұрын
You do great work and I won't criticize your great work, but I still think putting a little sealer all the way around would work better and the gasket would stick in place.
@ilrperformance715210 ай бұрын
Yes, some sealers are sticky enough to do hold a gasket pretty well. I've also used spay adhesive (like 3M Super 77) or Permatex Hi Tack with good results. Always more than one trick to get the job done.
@PhotoArtBrussels10 ай бұрын
Nicely made, looks sharp. Greeting from Belgium, Europe. ;-)
Пікірлер
Very nice
Very nice
Enjoyed very much!
Great conversion! I would love to be able to do the exact same thing. What websites or resources did you use to be able to successfully perform the CNC retrofit? Conversion kit, controller schematics, and BOM items to start. Thank yoU!
Honestly it wasn't real hard. I was originally going to go with servo motors but once I decided on close loop steppers I went straight to Leadshine and bought their kits. Motor, power supply and driver in one stop. Then once I chose the Acorn board they have all the schematics you could possibly want so I just followed those. The little stuff was mostly me being anal and I wanted a really clean install so I went with DIN rails and wire guides to keep it clean. Tuning it in to be accurate is more time consuming.
@@ilrperformance7152 Great insight, I do appreciate the reply. Been looking into government auctions for Bridgeport knee mills since I saw your video. Thank you for the prompt reply. I will go ahead and go to those sites and begin my research to build it all in CAD before pulling the trigger.
This is nice. I am scared but contemplating doing this. I just found a J1 that is a good candidate. Any reason you picked Acorn over MACH? You only have a few months on this build?
I picked the Acorn after doing a lot of research and talking to several users. The makers of the Acorn board build turn key CNC machines so they know the interfaces well and they provide really good hook up instructions for so many configurations. Hook up went pretty well and each thing I add on has not been much work to get integrated. It has been a couple years now since I did the conversion without any problems. But like all projects it has evolved and gotten some additional mods.
Have any resources or spare parts for the water brake? I've come up with a solution for the constant bearing failure due to water intrusion. Let me know if you're battling the same issues. I am running much more powerful engines though.
I have bigger bearings already so I haven't had any issues all the way up to just shy of 200 Ft/lb. I do grease them regularly so I don't have water issues. It's a pretty reliable brake so I haven't really had much repair required. I have a full machine shop so I usually just make anything I need to replace. Only part I'm a little worried about is losing the PC interface board but if I do I'll deal with it then.
@@ilrperformance7152 I've lost the weather station features and have to enter it all pressures manually now
Amazing videos man. Thank you! In the process of this right now and these rebuild videos are tremendous help! 💯🤘
Glad you like them!
Is that a cr manifold?
Aftermarkets large intake for a TRX.
Timing Belt and Pulley you used
I used a 5mm pitch HTD belt and 2 /1 sprockets. Since the Bridgeport moves .200" per rev on the table it was really easy to dial in the distance per motor rev.
Can you disclose what kind of cost to expect to convert one of these machines to CNC? I am looking at either buying a new manual/CNC machine for about $15k (CNC Masters) or I can get an old BridgePort about $3K to $6K and convert it. Old American iron would probably be a much more substantial machine than a new one but also an overkill for my needs.
I did all of the research, bought the parts and did all of the assembly, so I'm into the whole CNC conversions right at about$1500.00. But honestly I didn't add every item up, some stuff I had here in the shop. I wanted a very heavy commercial Bridegeport for the stability. The newer clones or the smaller mills were just not rigid enough for my liking.
Thank you so much. I have decided to get an old BridgePort and recondition it. It will come out much cheaper and I believe I will end up with a better machine, plus the fun of rebuilding it. It looks like I can get a decent one for about $3K to $4K, about $5K to $6K for one that has 2 or 3 axis control. I would of course update all the electronics. From what I understand your machine had two axis motorized. You did not show how you converted the third (I guess the Z) to motorized. Can you show that? I am looking to do very similar to what you have. I am new to the whole vertical mill thing and machining but will be starting to put together a small machine shop at my home for personal use. If I start with a manual bridgePort, can I convert it to a full CNC or would it be much better for me to start with a bridgePort that is already 2 or 3 axis motorized. I do want the option to switch from CNC to manual as well. I think that if I find a decent 2 or 3 axis CNC BP, I would have to pay a little more upfront but the conversion may cost less? But, like I said, I am new to this so I don't know much. Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks for responding to my inquiry.@@ilrperformance7152
How are you getting the third axis? Are you driving the knee? I going to convert my Sharp mill from 2 axis to 3 axis, but I think that I am going to use the quill for the third axis.
yes. The Bridgeport already has power quill feed and I didn't want to change that so I use the knee for the Z axis. It' so heavy its real smooth up and down.
Awesome work Dave, I'm sure I'll be getting ahold of you soon, I finally got bored with the 450 motor in my tecate, time to go back to a 2 stroke.
just let me know
Nice! Thanks for posting. Great explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Great job! Could you share the part numbers for your build? I am upgrading an old Bridgeport CNC upgrade too and it sounds like you are very happy with the system.
If I get a chance I'll gather up all of the parts that I bought. Took me a few months and lots of research but yes I'm real happy with the Lead Shine steppers kits paired with the Centroid controller. The Centroid pendant that I added later was a few minute set up.
Awesome content, suscribed
I wish the LT500 motor fit with as much room as this KX500 has! I know the LT500 has the addition of a counter-balancer ahead of the crank, but the overall size is massive compared to this. Nice work, as usual!
I love an old knee mill! Super sweet! 0 backlash! 🙌
It's really solid. Cuts way heavier than I'm brave enough to try
This series is so good I gotta watch it a few times to remember all the tips!
Thank you
Awesome content and details! Subscribed!
Thank you
This is gonna be rad!
Can you share homing, as to the position of the table. I'm converting my floor standing knee mill and want to place my proximity switches in the right place.
I put my homing switches to set the table almost full positive X, mid travel Y and 12" down on Z (my knee is my Z axis). That gives me the table room I need for set up and for part removal, then I translate to the part coordinate system and machine in those coords.
Very nicely done. I have a BP S1 I converted to Mach3 several years ago and want to convert to close loop steppers and Acorn. Any thoughts on how to keep the steppers from back generating when running the machine with the crank handles?
The steppers I used have so much breaking when powered up you can't turn the cranks without breaking something. I bought Centroids wireless pendant (which was amazingly easy to install) so I just crank the pendant and put the table anywhere I want. I didn't plan on a pendant, but now that I have it I would not want to be without it. I can literally move the table in .001" increments when I need to, or up the speed and t moves damn fast.
I have Hardinge 2007 2 axis cnc mill with an ez vision controller. This mill looks identical to the one in your video. The machine it’s self is in great shape, but the ez vision controller quite working. This is a common issue with the e vision controller. I would like to retrofit this machine into a 3 axis cnc mill with the quill as my 3rd axis. Do you have a video of your work that you done on your machine, or advise me on what I should do if you were me. What would it cost to do this myself and what would cost for me to have it done. Because my machine is identical to yours would you be intrested in taking this on. Your thought would be greatly appreciated.
Depends on what you have now for lead screws and X, Y and Z drives. You need good ball screws but if it was already NC it may have good screws. If it is a Bridgeport clone the spindle probably already has power down-feed so you'd need to disable a fair amount of the gear drives for that and replace with a stepper or servo. I chose to make my Z the knee. That way I still have the quill power feed but the Z has CNC control thru the knee. My A axis is a removable rotary table.
Definitely worth the money 🎉
I'm really happy to add that ability.
Do you still have the old motors ?
I have the original 2 servo motors and all of the cabinet and electronics
@@ilrperformance7152 I am interested in purchasing them. My mill has had motors removed should I contact you at your web site?
Real nice design & implementation.....At 08:20, why is the Torque/Strain Sensor located so close to the Shaft axis ?? .....Usually the 1 piece Torque generator Cell is located 12" away from Shaft Centerline.....
The torque sensor is in the torque limiting arm itself. As the load is applied it flexes the blue arm and that produces the torque measurement. It's actually 12.00 inches from the center of the rotating shaft to the stationary pin that holds the torque rod. I didn't have to be exactly 12" but it makes calibration and mass compensation a little easier.
Keep up the good work brother. We need more of you around lol
Thanks! Will do!
*********IS THAT A NO POWER VALVE CYL ???? AND WHAT YEAR ENGINE ???*********
Correct, that cylinder doesn't have a power valve. It's an LA Sleeve 330 big bore cylinder originally but it been punched out to take the bigger sleeve.
Good stuff! A dyno tour and some of your theories on good break in/run in practice would be appreciated if you ever have time. Thanks for sharing.
I have an older dyno tour video posted but it doesn't get too many hits.
Wow David that is sweet!
Thanks
Love the videos, Great info thanks
Thanks for watching!
What size stepper motor are you running on the knee? They have quite a few selections on stepper motors they go by Oz or newton meters. Nema 34 to nama 42.
I used NEMA34 closed loop steppers, 9.0 Nm on all axis. They are more that I need on X and Y but pretty decent on Z. I don't lift a lot of big steel items on the knee though. Mostly make aluminum parts. If I needed more power I can change the 2:1 drive do a 3:1 drive and probably nothing would stop it before the drive nut broke.
Its not a knee mill, its a turret mill
Just curious why you believe that it's not a knee mill? Only asking because the paperwork I have with it and the repair manual call it a Bridgeport Series 2 Knee Mill.
But it has a knee…
Where did you get your ring gear? I need one!
I made it
One day I'll switch my Eagle/Anilam over from mach 4 to centroid. I rather like my mori sl1h oak retrofit. Centoid with a touch screen is so very pleasant to operate.
I have found the Centroid to be a very good option. A lot of features and great support. Didn't really like Mach 4 on my router.
Did you change the ball screw?
This started out as 2 axis CNC from Bridgeport so It has ball screws in X and Y already. I have not changed the Z to ball screw and so far it works fine since the weight of the knee minimizes backlash. The Acorn CNC has backlash compensation as well.
motul ftw . i run it with 110 leaded in my 88 trx250r.
Yeah the Motul has proven to be a really good dyno premix oil. Lots of good options but I've pushed a few engines too hard and never had a lube failure yet.
man thats amazing cutting your own ports into a blank sleeve..my mind is blown haha im looking for a 363 top end with a cpi cylinder. Do you have a webpage?
ilrperformance.com
I'm curious what paint you use on the engine. Is that powder coat or rattle can--and what brand? It is hard to find a black that has the OEM gloss. They are either too glossy or too matte.
Its a catalyzed urethane satin black from PPG
From witch model of 250 Honda is that cylinder?
That cylinder came of of an ATC250R, but it's exactly the same as the TRX250R. It is not an OEM Honda cylinder though. That is an LA Sleeve casting.
I have a nearly Identical build on a YCM-30 mill. Currently battling with a way to get the control system to account for the low / back gear of the head in order to spin the motor in the opposite direction. Do you use the low gear at all?
Ah, yes that was something I learned along the way. In high gear the spindle turns one way, but it turns the opposite way in low gear because of the gear reduction they use. I thought that my VFD was giving me grief and switching output on the 3 phase. I just set the VFD to run clockwise when I'm in high and counterclockwise when I'm in low.
I want to see you add a counterbalance shaft to it. if anybody could I know you could
Adding a counter balancer is do-able but it's a huge amount of work. Been a long time since I did one of those.
mine didn't vibrate near as bad as some I've seen . make sure the crank is balanced it will probably be fine.@@ilrperformance7152
This is going to be an interesting project. I don't think I've ever seen a kx 500 engine put in a KFX. The pipe will probably be a challenge but I'm sure it will rip.
Yeah, the pipe was "fun" to fit into the chassis.
Do you have any experience with the CPI lynx 380? If so, how is the ride ability? Is it too much? I questioned a guy at the dunes about his puma and he said he wished he’d just stayed with the stock trx250r cylinder.
Just depends on your goals. If you want a fun ATV to ride day after day for years the stock or the LA Sleeve cylinders are really hard to beat. But they have limits and the CPI does give you more available area to get bigger gains. Big bores on stock cylinders work good with upgrade parts for stock motors (38 and 39mm carbs, reeds, pipes etc). Aftermarket big bore cylinders need bigger carbs, custom pipes and reeds - everything costs more to get more.
Love it may be a dumb question but how did you hold that cylinder head to the plate?
I thread 3 of the cylinder stud holes and bolt it to the plate from the top using the spacers. Tapped holes have to be really straight or it wobbles all over but I drill and tap them in the CNC mill.
I have a Pro Design cool head, can you modify those domes to work with the 310? What the price to change a 250 into a big bore?
Yep. I do a lot of cool head dome mods for the 310's. Those are nice because the plug is on center. Message me on Facebook at either David Roberts or the ILR Performance page and let me know what you have now and I can give you a price. I keep sleeves and pistons in stock all the time.
Love your detailed information and videos. Big fan of the ATC / TRX 250R’s. Love to see more videos of the 250R motor stock and big bores break downs and inspections etc. Keep up the excellent work!
If I get enough subscribers I'll make more videos.
Hi, where can I get a big bore piston?
big bore for what engine and for what bore size?
@@ilrperformance7152 Kawasaki kx 250 1991 73mm
Your content is amazing!!! Keep up the good work and keep working on tecates lol I just got one and your videos are a life saver to somebody figuring things out as they go
Thank you
You do great work and I won't criticize your great work, but I still think putting a little sealer all the way around would work better and the gasket would stick in place.
Yes, some sealers are sticky enough to do hold a gasket pretty well. I've also used spay adhesive (like 3M Super 77) or Permatex Hi Tack with good results. Always more than one trick to get the job done.
Nicely made, looks sharp. Greeting from Belgium, Europe. ;-)
Thank you very much!