Does it matter if the the prop seal is not flush. As you said. As I push mine in a few millimetres in. Will or would it make a difference?
@bowl83016 сағат бұрын
As long as it’s not hitting anything causing it to bind you should be fine. My model would only go slightly below flush before it bottomed out and wouldn’t go any further
@JayManOutdoors23 сағат бұрын
Thank you sir for making this video! Rivets underneath where my batteries sit have been leaking for awhile. Do you have a recommendation for paint/primer or epoxy to seal entire inside of the boat after i install new rivets?
@crappiequade4238Күн бұрын
Boat looks great what type of paint and corrison product did you paint tjhe transom with???
@shannonlocklear8116Күн бұрын
Hi Jeff, I love your videos. I was wondering if I could build a nice catfish boat for smaller rivers here in NC, the Cape Fear and Pee Dee from an older tracker. I’d like to replace the plywood with aluminum for ease of cleaning and durability? Thanks for the informative videos.
@bowl830Күн бұрын
Thank you for watching and the kind words. I appreciate it. I fish the Catawba chain
@shannonlocklear8116Күн бұрын
@@bowl830 That a little up stream from me . I’m over in the Fayetteville area.
@FishGears3 күн бұрын
What if you cant get to the other side? Would a pop rivet with some sealant be ok?
@bowl8303 күн бұрын
You can get closed end pop rivets. They work pretty good. Use all aluminum rivets.
@bigken30575 күн бұрын
Just purchased a 1981 Mariner 180 with Johnson 75hp 2-stroke and it need a full resto... Wish me luck, perhaps I make a little picture tour of my own. Thanks for the info & inspiration.
@jamesoosterbaan5565 күн бұрын
You had water in the unit because the bent shaft started wiping the shaft seal behind the prop
@summitchase7 күн бұрын
Microscopic barrier 🫠
@catchemallcallan11 күн бұрын
I have to replace the armature on my Ulterra 112/MDI iPilot 60" (2020 series). I have the correct parts, but cannot find a video anywhere on replacing the armature on this model. Do you have any information or suggestions? Thank you!
@bowl83011 күн бұрын
Sorry I don’t.
@kentemple649814 күн бұрын
Hi Jeff. If you added aluminum to the rear skin, how is it that the top trim still fits? I added 1/8” aluminum skin to my Sylvan and now the cap doesn’t fit. I’m open for suggestions on what to do now cuz bending those radius’s with new aluminum angle will be difficult if not impossible.
@bowl8308 күн бұрын
On the tracker I was able to stretch it enough to use a rubber hammer and get it over it. Now my StarCraft I had to just fabricate a new piece from aluminum sheet metal. It was a pain lol.
@kentemple64988 күн бұрын
@@bowl830 I ended up using two pieces of 2” aluminum angle and made relief cuts around the bends. Not the best looking but fully functional after I seal it really good. And again this series has been a great tutorial for. Thank you.
@ricardoesquivel565018 күн бұрын
Can you put mushroom on the inside and use the air hammer the flatten the outside?
@bowl83018 күн бұрын
I wouldn’t. You want the most surface area on the outside
@LGHNurse19 күн бұрын
Great instructional video.
@bowl83017 күн бұрын
Thank you I appreciate it
@jamesgibbons629220 күн бұрын
Worked well. Thank you for your time and effort!!
@bowl83020 күн бұрын
Awesome. Glad you’re up and running
@bradharris235821 күн бұрын
Hey Jeff, where did you get the Large sheets of PVC board?
@bowl83017 күн бұрын
I get them from contractor supply. “Lumber yards”. Not big box stores
@eddiekorkis22 күн бұрын
Any suggestions on removing the center cylinder? The one with the magnets. I have the propeller and everything out. I just need to remove that cylinder. It’s jammed.
@electronicjunky694023 күн бұрын
Great video. For some reason his voice reminds me of President George H Bush.
@bowl83021 күн бұрын
lol. 😂 I appreciate you watching and commenting I appreciate it
@mvanek25 күн бұрын
Sorry if I’m late to the party here, what type of epoxy did you use to bind the skin to the transom? I’m about to do the same for my aluminum boat and struggling to figure out the best type of 2 part epoxy
@bowl83025 күн бұрын
I’ve had great results with G-flex.
@mvanek20 күн бұрын
@@bowl830 I ordered GFlex 650 thinking it was 655, I'm going to mix a bit and see if it'll work for the vertical application. If not i see there is 406 colloidal silica i can add to thicken a bit. I'm currently doing the same skin job to my 18' springbok but i'm only adding an outer skin. I hope its adequate. Thank you so much for these videos, without your visual assistance i would have had no idea where to start!
@bowl83020 күн бұрын
@@mvanek awesome. Glad I could help
@Mascotal26 күн бұрын
They should never use wood or foam in a boat.
@alano287529 күн бұрын
Thanks for the tutorial. I want to share my experience with others, so they can avoid my regrets... I got a free 18' Starcraft Chieftain off Craigslist. It was sitting in the woods for 10 years with a blocked drain (floors and any other wood, completely rotted away. Trailer was in fair condition...Engine and Kicker were resurrected for minimal cost (impellers, gear oil and one Mercury wiring harness (I think it was $120). Everything on the outside of the hull looked good, except for one rivet on the mid-bottom 8 inches fwd of the transom. Gutted the insides (removed what was left of floors, foam, rat nests etc). Gave it a good cleaning including pressure washing and let it dry out for a week. With the inside of the hull dry... I used a pressure washer on the outside of the hull...no water came in...so I figured everything was good. Yada Yada Yada...I completely re-built and re-wired the boat, put foam and floors in place and added a 2nd bilge pump. Took it out in a calm lake on a warm day and noticed that there was a lot of water...I estimate 5 gallons in about an hour. Seems like more than leaking rivets. My point: (and my biggest regret) If you have a boat project...work on the trailer first...then gut your boat and take it to a lake to see for yourself whether it actually leaks. My suspicion and my plan: The bottom most piece of aluminum forming this boat is continuous, except where it is cut at the front to form a point...In this area I see that someone had poured resin (visible on the inside...and just noticed that I can see a little seepage on both sides of the aluminum keel strip on the outside). I actually remember during the gutting...that I picked out some of this resin because it was blocking the drain path along the keel (rib/frame has a bridged area (rib flare) right over the keel, to allow water flow). My plan is to remove the bow compartment floor and cabin center floor/foam...and put the boat back in the lake...to verify my suspicion. If that is my leak...then I guess I'll have to find a good flexible resin to pour into the area. I guess an alternative to the lake leak test...would be to point the boat bow-down and fill bow area with water.... As an alternative...guess I could install a 3rd bilge pump...LOL. That seam is suspect...any thoughts?
@bowl83029 күн бұрын
Awesome response. That is a common leak point and an easy fix if cleaned and dried properly. I airways fill my boats with water. I have a video showing how I do it. Just don’t over fill. I nose down and fill to check front then tilt it nose up and repeat. As for the seams. I use G-flex. On warm metal it flows like water and will fill the smallest of holes permanently. I use a heat gun to dry it and warm the area. It pours great and you. A use a syringe to feel the lap seams. Good luck and again thank you.
@alano287529 күн бұрын
Yep. I got access and just looked at it again...still a bit of water pooled forward of resin filled frame drain. Semi smoking gun I guess...just need to decide how much of old resin to chip out and which new (flexible?) Resin to use to "patch".
@bowl83029 күн бұрын
G-flex is a great flexible permanent fix if applied correctly
@sledfam365929 күн бұрын
Awesome video. I'm a professional tech. You're video is great......
@bowl83029 күн бұрын
Thank you for watching and commenting I appreciate it.
@knutarneaakra6013Ай бұрын
Tig welding😊
@bowl83027 күн бұрын
Tig is good at filling holes but a bad idea for replacing rivets. The rivet is there to hold multiple layers and sometimes ribs or supports. I’ve had to drill out and repair many boats that were welded Welding has its place but o usually will weld up one if I think it’s to bad to just rebuk. But I will drill it out and replace the rivet afterwards. Thank you for watching and commenting
@tearlelepkey5140Ай бұрын
Thankyou
@Hazel66781Ай бұрын
Could be a trans cat.
@kentemple6498Ай бұрын
I watched the video twice. Still had a few questions. Read every comment and found answers to all my questions. So really I'm just helping your channel grow and helping with the YT algorithm by commenting. Great series as I'm re-doing a '91 Sylvan deep v 17 footer.
@bowl830Ай бұрын
Thank you I appreciate you watching and commenting
@Kendall43Ай бұрын
What do you do with the liquid that’s in the cylinders? Just run it through or?
@bowl830Ай бұрын
It will burn. It will smoke a little more for a few seconds.
@barnttАй бұрын
🤔 Coming to it! Instead of seat mounts in the floor what's your thoughts on the Millennium’s Marine swivel seat on tripod legs? Four fisherman take four seats. Two fisherman only take 2 chairs. Move anywhere.... Thanks. Awesome builds
@susanludwig8924Ай бұрын
I was looking for your car orator test on this unit. Can’t seem to find it.
@dougfloyd7342Ай бұрын
what lake are you on if you don't mine me asking. great video and lesson
@bowl830Ай бұрын
Lake Wylie nc/sc
@jimydoolittle3129Ай бұрын
Very long stem , the rule in aviation is 1.5 the diameter 11:50
@ronniebotteron9924Ай бұрын
Big fish can travel a hundred miles up the river that feeds the lake that why it seems like there gone because most of them are
@kentemple6498Ай бұрын
Funny what three years does. 2” pink board is now $60/sheet 😡 at HD 6-30-24.
@bowl830Ай бұрын
Crazy.
@bowl830Ай бұрын
Trust me I know. I own a construction company. Material up 200% since Covid
@kentemple6498Ай бұрын
Man I love this series. Thank you. I have a ‘91 Sylvan 17’ Pro Fisherman. It has a small live well up front none in back. It has two side rod lockers that I really don’t need. If I remove one side rod locker, maybe I can make a large live well in its place. 🤔. You got me thinking!
@bowl830Ай бұрын
Awesome. Thank you for the kind words and for watching.
@kellyrw9865Ай бұрын
Both videos are great I learned alot
@bowl830Ай бұрын
Thank you I appreciate that
@charlesbrewer7669Ай бұрын
I'm fixing to be bringing back one that's been sitting for 6 years. 50hp mercury 2 stroke. Any other pointers or stuff that I should check before actually trying to fire it up? I'm so thankful I stumbled upon this video!
@bowl830Ай бұрын
You should be good. I’d drain the lower unit to check for water. Other than that go for it. Thank you for watching and commenting I appreciate it
@sarahhennessy8233Ай бұрын
What kind of PVC did you use?
@sarahhennessy8233Ай бұрын
By the way. These videos are a lifesaver. THANK YOU for lending us your great skills
@bowl830Ай бұрын
I use a material called Azek. I think the big box stores carry a version. I get mine from actual lumber companies that are builder supply. They usually refer to it as synthetic board. I buy it in board and sheet form. Good luck and thank you for watching and commenting
@sarahhennessy8233Ай бұрын
@@bowl830thank you!
@sarahhennessy8233Ай бұрын
Amazing video. How did you remove the access holes through the transom to that splash well?
@bowl830Ай бұрын
I just made a solid inner transom. Then covered them up with the new skins
@zoomzoomgtАй бұрын
Is there any difference from. Using your method, vs traditional rivet hand tool aside from time and efficiency? Any special rivets needed for these? Cause ive seen ppl use some sort of aqua silicone when putting in riviets.
@bowl830Ай бұрын
These are solid rivets. You have to hammer buck them or use a hydraulic press gun. The other type is pop. I only use closed end pop rivets as a temporary or last resort.
@user-ns1vy3sd9q2 ай бұрын
I know I’m late to this thread but just wanted to say thank you for sharing your idea! This has to work great. Much appreciated.
@bowl8302 ай бұрын
Thank you. I appreciate you watching and commenting
@Everythingoutdoors9022 ай бұрын
Do you have the link for where you purchased your rivets?
@brianmanning18592 ай бұрын
Hey bud the cardboard piece is to hold brushes until you put armature back in. No need to pop springs.
@luisribeiro56392 ай бұрын
try to put the foam on a plastic bag to avoid water and put a panel over it or glue the plastic bag to the boat.
@jamieoliver90712 ай бұрын
Where do you buy those sheets of foam? Can’t seem to find it anywhere
@bowl8302 ай бұрын
Home Depot and Lowe’s sells them. I like the homedepot version in 2”.
@tonyfreeman-lq5fg2 ай бұрын
Thank you. Great info. I'm getting ready to try and bring one back. After 9 years.
@mainetroutwhisperer2 ай бұрын
Do you have a link to the fully sealed pound in rivets?
@ronaldmylrea68542 ай бұрын
I need you to be my neighbour 👍
@authenticallywildoutwest2 ай бұрын
I'm currently researching my own '74 restoration and this video brought a ton of inspiration. Thanks so much!
@bowl8302 ай бұрын
Awesome thanks for watching and commenting
@blackout76152 ай бұрын
When you fire up and run a uninown engine always mix the oil in the gas at 50:1. Even if its oil injection. It lets you verify the oil injection is working and extra oul isnt going to hurt anything, but no oil will mess things up in a hurry.
@masterofreality15522 ай бұрын
That is really cool.Im in Texas so i would have to figure out a way to put an air conditioner in that thing.
@bowl8302 ай бұрын
I thought about putting a RV roof top system on it. lol
@Rattytatt2 ай бұрын
Bought a old 1448. Never worked with aluminum and my knowledge of rivet types/uses is zilch. Just a tad worried about making things worse. Tried viewing numerous videos to get myself educated but just didn't get that warm fuzzy feeling until I came across yours. Seriously, you should be teaching shop class. Your instructions are clear and concise. I'm pumped now, but will practice some before I try it for real. "Even a caveman can do it" lol
@bowl8302 ай бұрын
Awesome and comments like yours makes it worth it. Thanks for watching hung and commenting i appreciate it
@briankanouse8112 ай бұрын
Any chance you could send me that link if its still available? Thanks
Пікірлер
Does it matter if the the prop seal is not flush. As you said. As I push mine in a few millimetres in. Will or would it make a difference?
As long as it’s not hitting anything causing it to bind you should be fine. My model would only go slightly below flush before it bottomed out and wouldn’t go any further
Thank you sir for making this video! Rivets underneath where my batteries sit have been leaking for awhile. Do you have a recommendation for paint/primer or epoxy to seal entire inside of the boat after i install new rivets?
Boat looks great what type of paint and corrison product did you paint tjhe transom with???
Hi Jeff, I love your videos. I was wondering if I could build a nice catfish boat for smaller rivers here in NC, the Cape Fear and Pee Dee from an older tracker. I’d like to replace the plywood with aluminum for ease of cleaning and durability? Thanks for the informative videos.
Thank you for watching and the kind words. I appreciate it. I fish the Catawba chain
@@bowl830 That a little up stream from me . I’m over in the Fayetteville area.
What if you cant get to the other side? Would a pop rivet with some sealant be ok?
You can get closed end pop rivets. They work pretty good. Use all aluminum rivets.
Just purchased a 1981 Mariner 180 with Johnson 75hp 2-stroke and it need a full resto... Wish me luck, perhaps I make a little picture tour of my own. Thanks for the info & inspiration.
You had water in the unit because the bent shaft started wiping the shaft seal behind the prop
Microscopic barrier 🫠
I have to replace the armature on my Ulterra 112/MDI iPilot 60" (2020 series). I have the correct parts, but cannot find a video anywhere on replacing the armature on this model. Do you have any information or suggestions? Thank you!
Sorry I don’t.
Hi Jeff. If you added aluminum to the rear skin, how is it that the top trim still fits? I added 1/8” aluminum skin to my Sylvan and now the cap doesn’t fit. I’m open for suggestions on what to do now cuz bending those radius’s with new aluminum angle will be difficult if not impossible.
On the tracker I was able to stretch it enough to use a rubber hammer and get it over it. Now my StarCraft I had to just fabricate a new piece from aluminum sheet metal. It was a pain lol.
@@bowl830 I ended up using two pieces of 2” aluminum angle and made relief cuts around the bends. Not the best looking but fully functional after I seal it really good. And again this series has been a great tutorial for. Thank you.
Can you put mushroom on the inside and use the air hammer the flatten the outside?
I wouldn’t. You want the most surface area on the outside
Great instructional video.
Thank you I appreciate it
Worked well. Thank you for your time and effort!!
Awesome. Glad you’re up and running
Hey Jeff, where did you get the Large sheets of PVC board?
I get them from contractor supply. “Lumber yards”. Not big box stores
Any suggestions on removing the center cylinder? The one with the magnets. I have the propeller and everything out. I just need to remove that cylinder. It’s jammed.
Great video. For some reason his voice reminds me of President George H Bush.
lol. 😂 I appreciate you watching and commenting I appreciate it
Sorry if I’m late to the party here, what type of epoxy did you use to bind the skin to the transom? I’m about to do the same for my aluminum boat and struggling to figure out the best type of 2 part epoxy
I’ve had great results with G-flex.
@@bowl830 I ordered GFlex 650 thinking it was 655, I'm going to mix a bit and see if it'll work for the vertical application. If not i see there is 406 colloidal silica i can add to thicken a bit. I'm currently doing the same skin job to my 18' springbok but i'm only adding an outer skin. I hope its adequate. Thank you so much for these videos, without your visual assistance i would have had no idea where to start!
@@mvanek awesome. Glad I could help
They should never use wood or foam in a boat.
Thanks for the tutorial. I want to share my experience with others, so they can avoid my regrets... I got a free 18' Starcraft Chieftain off Craigslist. It was sitting in the woods for 10 years with a blocked drain (floors and any other wood, completely rotted away. Trailer was in fair condition...Engine and Kicker were resurrected for minimal cost (impellers, gear oil and one Mercury wiring harness (I think it was $120). Everything on the outside of the hull looked good, except for one rivet on the mid-bottom 8 inches fwd of the transom. Gutted the insides (removed what was left of floors, foam, rat nests etc). Gave it a good cleaning including pressure washing and let it dry out for a week. With the inside of the hull dry... I used a pressure washer on the outside of the hull...no water came in...so I figured everything was good. Yada Yada Yada...I completely re-built and re-wired the boat, put foam and floors in place and added a 2nd bilge pump. Took it out in a calm lake on a warm day and noticed that there was a lot of water...I estimate 5 gallons in about an hour. Seems like more than leaking rivets. My point: (and my biggest regret) If you have a boat project...work on the trailer first...then gut your boat and take it to a lake to see for yourself whether it actually leaks. My suspicion and my plan: The bottom most piece of aluminum forming this boat is continuous, except where it is cut at the front to form a point...In this area I see that someone had poured resin (visible on the inside...and just noticed that I can see a little seepage on both sides of the aluminum keel strip on the outside). I actually remember during the gutting...that I picked out some of this resin because it was blocking the drain path along the keel (rib/frame has a bridged area (rib flare) right over the keel, to allow water flow). My plan is to remove the bow compartment floor and cabin center floor/foam...and put the boat back in the lake...to verify my suspicion. If that is my leak...then I guess I'll have to find a good flexible resin to pour into the area. I guess an alternative to the lake leak test...would be to point the boat bow-down and fill bow area with water.... As an alternative...guess I could install a 3rd bilge pump...LOL. That seam is suspect...any thoughts?
Awesome response. That is a common leak point and an easy fix if cleaned and dried properly. I airways fill my boats with water. I have a video showing how I do it. Just don’t over fill. I nose down and fill to check front then tilt it nose up and repeat. As for the seams. I use G-flex. On warm metal it flows like water and will fill the smallest of holes permanently. I use a heat gun to dry it and warm the area. It pours great and you. A use a syringe to feel the lap seams. Good luck and again thank you.
Yep. I got access and just looked at it again...still a bit of water pooled forward of resin filled frame drain. Semi smoking gun I guess...just need to decide how much of old resin to chip out and which new (flexible?) Resin to use to "patch".
G-flex is a great flexible permanent fix if applied correctly
Awesome video. I'm a professional tech. You're video is great......
Thank you for watching and commenting I appreciate it.
Tig welding😊
Tig is good at filling holes but a bad idea for replacing rivets. The rivet is there to hold multiple layers and sometimes ribs or supports. I’ve had to drill out and repair many boats that were welded Welding has its place but o usually will weld up one if I think it’s to bad to just rebuk. But I will drill it out and replace the rivet afterwards. Thank you for watching and commenting
Thankyou
Could be a trans cat.
I watched the video twice. Still had a few questions. Read every comment and found answers to all my questions. So really I'm just helping your channel grow and helping with the YT algorithm by commenting. Great series as I'm re-doing a '91 Sylvan deep v 17 footer.
Thank you I appreciate you watching and commenting
What do you do with the liquid that’s in the cylinders? Just run it through or?
It will burn. It will smoke a little more for a few seconds.
🤔 Coming to it! Instead of seat mounts in the floor what's your thoughts on the Millennium’s Marine swivel seat on tripod legs? Four fisherman take four seats. Two fisherman only take 2 chairs. Move anywhere.... Thanks. Awesome builds
I was looking for your car orator test on this unit. Can’t seem to find it.
what lake are you on if you don't mine me asking. great video and lesson
Lake Wylie nc/sc
Very long stem , the rule in aviation is 1.5 the diameter 11:50
Big fish can travel a hundred miles up the river that feeds the lake that why it seems like there gone because most of them are
Funny what three years does. 2” pink board is now $60/sheet 😡 at HD 6-30-24.
Crazy.
Trust me I know. I own a construction company. Material up 200% since Covid
Man I love this series. Thank you. I have a ‘91 Sylvan 17’ Pro Fisherman. It has a small live well up front none in back. It has two side rod lockers that I really don’t need. If I remove one side rod locker, maybe I can make a large live well in its place. 🤔. You got me thinking!
Awesome. Thank you for the kind words and for watching.
Both videos are great I learned alot
Thank you I appreciate that
I'm fixing to be bringing back one that's been sitting for 6 years. 50hp mercury 2 stroke. Any other pointers or stuff that I should check before actually trying to fire it up? I'm so thankful I stumbled upon this video!
You should be good. I’d drain the lower unit to check for water. Other than that go for it. Thank you for watching and commenting I appreciate it
What kind of PVC did you use?
By the way. These videos are a lifesaver. THANK YOU for lending us your great skills
I use a material called Azek. I think the big box stores carry a version. I get mine from actual lumber companies that are builder supply. They usually refer to it as synthetic board. I buy it in board and sheet form. Good luck and thank you for watching and commenting
@@bowl830thank you!
Amazing video. How did you remove the access holes through the transom to that splash well?
I just made a solid inner transom. Then covered them up with the new skins
Is there any difference from. Using your method, vs traditional rivet hand tool aside from time and efficiency? Any special rivets needed for these? Cause ive seen ppl use some sort of aqua silicone when putting in riviets.
These are solid rivets. You have to hammer buck them or use a hydraulic press gun. The other type is pop. I only use closed end pop rivets as a temporary or last resort.
I know I’m late to this thread but just wanted to say thank you for sharing your idea! This has to work great. Much appreciated.
Thank you. I appreciate you watching and commenting
Do you have the link for where you purchased your rivets?
Hey bud the cardboard piece is to hold brushes until you put armature back in. No need to pop springs.
try to put the foam on a plastic bag to avoid water and put a panel over it or glue the plastic bag to the boat.
Where do you buy those sheets of foam? Can’t seem to find it anywhere
Home Depot and Lowe’s sells them. I like the homedepot version in 2”.
Thank you. Great info. I'm getting ready to try and bring one back. After 9 years.
Do you have a link to the fully sealed pound in rivets?
I need you to be my neighbour 👍
I'm currently researching my own '74 restoration and this video brought a ton of inspiration. Thanks so much!
Awesome thanks for watching and commenting
When you fire up and run a uninown engine always mix the oil in the gas at 50:1. Even if its oil injection. It lets you verify the oil injection is working and extra oul isnt going to hurt anything, but no oil will mess things up in a hurry.
That is really cool.Im in Texas so i would have to figure out a way to put an air conditioner in that thing.
I thought about putting a RV roof top system on it. lol
Bought a old 1448. Never worked with aluminum and my knowledge of rivet types/uses is zilch. Just a tad worried about making things worse. Tried viewing numerous videos to get myself educated but just didn't get that warm fuzzy feeling until I came across yours. Seriously, you should be teaching shop class. Your instructions are clear and concise. I'm pumped now, but will practice some before I try it for real. "Even a caveman can do it" lol
Awesome and comments like yours makes it worth it. Thanks for watching hung and commenting i appreciate it
Any chance you could send me that link if its still available? Thanks