Frenchcreekvalley .frenchcreekvalley
Frenchcreekvalley .frenchcreekvalley
This is a totally G rated educational/science/technology channel. Usually about "Maker" stuff.
I simply want to pass on some of the thiings I have learned along the way.
My Motto, (my daily question to myself):
What have you done today to make tomorrow better?
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I made this coil 3/4" ID following Tech Dregs instructions and it takes less then 5 seconds to make 223 case glow with 360W power and less than 2 seconds with 800 Watt power. Using Chinese 1000W ZVS board and 3/16 tubing.
Yup. This video is one of several that I made, showing my progress toward a smaller diameter 3 layer, 3 turn coil that does what you say; kzread.info/dash/bejne/mWp7qK-pirjAZ84.html
thank you so much!!! this makes a lot more sense than the stuff I was reading up on, it gets really complicated
Good afternoon, your videos are very interesting. I have a 2500W induction machine and I would like to ask you if it is possible to use a 150 ml crucible instead of the 70 ml that comes with the machine?
The 70 ml graphite crucibles with "SiO2 liner" that I use barely fit into the coil that comes with the machines that I have. You would have to make a larger coil as a minimum. I am not certain about the current requirements for that much larger crucible. Sorry that I can't be more helpful. My guess is that if the 150 ml graphite crucible was full of copper, the current draw on the system would be too high and the unit would fail.
May I ask If you have to recommend a size for a zvs for case anealing, would it be the 1000W of would it be bigger 1800/2500W typical models ? Kind regards
The 1000 watt unit will work quite well for this application. See: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mWp7qK-pirjAZ84.html This video shows the small 3 layer, 3 turn work coil that does an excellent job being powered by the ZVS 1000 watt induction heater running on 48 volts.
@@frenchcreekvalley Thank you very much. Appreciated! Would the 1000W unit be your preference if you would build your new ultimate anealer?
@@stephanc7192 Yes it would be my preference. But I don't do any reloading myself. I did the research based on requests from guys who do their own reloading. And, since then, I have seen several youtube videos of folks building their own annealer using the 1000 watt units that you see in many of my videos.
Great video
It feels as if 30 seconds is long.
Yes it is kinda long. But I went on to make and test other coils. Here is the best one. It heats the neck almost too quickly: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mWp7qK-pirjAZ84.html
@@frenchcreekvalley thank you for your response. I appreciate it. I am starting a build for case anealing. Kind regards
I figure "ratcoons" have just as much right to live as I do. It is our job to keep them out of our garbage, atics and hen houses.
Real man of genius! What an amazing idea
iv bought one of these. its second hand, but thats ok, i feel less guilty about hoarding loads of junk. but, it didn't come with the copper. i can easily knock up a coil, but what about the constraints with size, weight and impedance. i don't want to fry the board.. is it so critical? thanks
More than you will ever want to know about these heaters can be found on my website, here: spaco.org/Blacksmithing/ZVSInductionHeater/1000WattZVSInductionHeaterNotes.htm The short answer is that those 1000 watt boards come with a work coil that is somewhere between about 1 1/2 inches and 2 inches in internal diameter and have about 7 turns. This gets you an operating frequency of a bit less than 100 kHz. They are usually made from 6mm outside diameter copper "refrigeration tubing". But I almost always use 1/4 inch diameter (USA) copper tubing. I hope this helps. If not, feel free to ask questions.
@@frenchcreekvalley thanks.. mines a 2500 watt actually. i know the power supply need to be running in advance. this board iv got has "disable output no load" printed all over it. this is a bit ambiguous to me ?? i saw some comment on utub saying they got away with using an inverter welder for power. (some better ones do give out a spike to help strike the arc though) but they do come very cheap. iv got a little baby one that was only about 30 quid. also iv got a 30a 48v lead acid charger with a tranny, but i thought i could smooth it out with a bunch of big caps that came out of a big old mig welder. i dont know if thats a good idea though either. ill check your site.
A wonderful primer. Thank you!
Good content, that would explain why the humidity is around 100% in my house I have 4 12k btu units, and my bill is really cheap and all, bur that Humidity is terrible...
Cool I was maybe 5 when a boy cousin let me have his my grandparents wouldn't let me have it or a chemistry set say it was for boy ugh its so cool to see yours where do you search for your sets ebay or personal ads?
Theresa: Antique stores often have erector sets. Word of mouth has been good for me, too. I simply told everyone I knew that I was looking for them. Flea markets have them from time to time. Yes, you can find them on Ebay and Amazon, but the prices and shipping may be high.
i know this video is already 8 years old but i like it... in fact i assembled one yesterday but my LED's are not functioning perfect... blue, yellow and red are not functioning but the output voltage is correct ,working ok... i double check the schematics and all parts correctly put and the LED's are not defective... i wonder where did i go wrong?
The only possibility that comes to mind is that those LEDs may be in backwards.
@@frenchcreekvalley maybe but i double check it and all LEDs are in correct position. Here is a thing i just found out today... i solder everything again to make sure everything is connected properly... BUT when i tap the casing the LEDs lit up then off again... bad solder? remember i resolder everything again... the only thing left is the DIP14 - CD4069 socket but am not sure.
@@erwinsolmayor9205 rewatch the video from about 10:10. Your observation may be simply due to the high impedance characteristic of the circuit.
@@frenchcreekvalley i solved the problem found a hairline crack on the tracks to the LEDs... put some thin copper wires then problem solved.
@@erwinsolmayor9205 Thank you for this feedback.
You’re great thank you for your videos
VFD means Variable Frequency Drive. Induction motors require a change in frequency to change speed, unlike a DC motor where you just change the voltage applied to the motor to change speeds. When your induction motor is running at full speed the drive will supply it with a 60Hz signal. To slow the motor down it will increase the frequency of the signal. The 400Hz setting is the maximum frequency the drive will apply to the motor, this will result in minimum speed of the motor. That's why the default setting is set to 400Hz. You can change it to higher or lower depending on what speeds you want your motor to run at minimum and maximum. There are limits to how much you can change the settings. For most induction motors in Canada and the U.S.A. 60Hz to 400Hz is standard. You said you didn't understand why the setting was default to 400Hz. This is why.
I understand all that--- but the USA is NOT 400 Hz; as far as I know, 3 phase 400 Hz is used in aircraft and for some CNC spindle drive motors.
@@frenchcreekvalley I did not say that the standard voltage in the U.S.A. or Canada is 400Hz. I DID NOT SAY THAT. The power going in to the VFD from the source is 60 cycles per second. The VFD creates it's own waveform from the VFD to the motor in 3 phase. The 400 Hz is not on the incoming line it is only between the VFD and the motor, nowhere else. The VFD varies the frequency of the signal to the motor from 60Hz (full speed) to 400Hz (slow speed), and other frequencies in between. There is an inverse relationship between frequency and motor speed. That is why they call it a variable FREQUENCY drive.
@@user-un7yg9rs1b ---from 60Hz (full speed) to 400Hz (slow speed),--- Sorry, but you've got that backwards. A 60 Hz electric motor won't work on 400Hz. The VFD REDUCES the frequency to slow the motor down. And: you said " For most induction motors in Canada and the U.S.A. 60Hz to 400Hz is standard". I don't particularly want to argue with you, but in case others are reading this, I don't want them do go away with inaccurate information.
@@frenchcreekvalley You have that exactly backwards. The VFD increases the frequency to slow the motor down.
Do you have a fence for your saw? What miter gauge did you use? I was given one of these saws that has never beeneven plugged in. The tires and drive belts are all in the same condition as yours. I'm looking for blades, belts, a fence, and a miter gauge. Thank you for this video, It has been a big help. I didnt even know about the second pulley behind the drive pulley.
No, I don't have a fence for it. Most fences make you mount a rail to the front of the table and it has to be removed when changing blades. I just figured that I could clamp a board to the table if I needed that sort of guide for the work. I bought an after market miter gauge. I think I paid about $20 dollars for it in about 2020. You can find them on the internet. Sorry, but the one I bought has no mfr info at all on it.
@frenchcreekvalley thank you for the info. I was planning on the board idea too
Do you think that yeast might work for rising, at least if one is using alkali-processed (nixtamalized) maize?
I am the last guy to ask about baking, but I think that lack of gluton in corn is the main reason that yeast isn't recommended to promote rising.
I intend to grow both white dent maize and a dark-purple black flint maize, both heirloom types whose names I will not speak because for food processing it doesn't matter, only for agronomics. I'll let you know if I ever make anything neat with it. I don't have any seedeater pets to feed it to.
You are THA MAN!!! I really appreciate all of your information and presentation. Anyone watching can see your passions, not only with induction circuits but also in educating those wise enough to take advantage. Sharing your knowledge, especially what you feel is note worthy, is a true gift to us all. Thank you! Sure it is IMPOSSIBLE to give you the recognition and thanks you deserve, the world would be a better place with more people like you.
Thank you for your kind words.
Seems like a good path to go down. I have a Jabiru Experimental aircraft, so I'm allowed to experiment! I can't find a cap and rotor for my current dual plug ignition system, so I went down the rabbit hole, and now I'm considering a Coil On Plug system using an Arduino as a controller. This should be fun!
Daaaaamn! This is AWESOME! Love the play by play and break down of the the processes taking place, would be sooo happy to see this in person! Thank you for documenting in such detail!
Woooow! That's my DREAM setup! Just ordered a 1000 W board, like 2nd you showed (the one you haven't used ) appreciate the tips, will make sure n add thermal paste in back of mosfit, cant wait to melt some gold! Appreciate your hard work n dedication!!!
That is a nice way to remember it. I do always find myself having to think about how to re-arrange it to solve for I or R in the traditional notation!
Thanks! Very interesting, I did not know it either :)
The biggest problem with the three wheel bandsaw is you need three hands to replace the blade.
Didn't seem to be much of a problem for me.
I never actually thought to try this! Ive bought hole punches in the past but the problem is they are never really the exact size that I need.
Thank you for the video. I have a piece of track that measures 7" tall and 3" wide track. I'm trying to find the pounds per yard for this type. The best info I could find said 127lb/yd...does this sound right to you? Thanks again.
Weigh it and measure its length. If it is, for example, 24 inches long, and weighs 60 pounds, then you have 2/3 of a yard, right? So one foot would be 30 pounds and 3 feet would be 90 pounds. Or weigh and measure as before and divide the weight by the length to get the weight per inch and multiply by 36..
I'm glad you showed me the excellent shop layout. I'm in Western New York area. I just started with blacksmithing. I wish I lived closer to you. If you ever wanted to sell any of your on used equipment , I would drive to you. Hopefully you are doing well. Tom
Thank you for your kind words. Yes, We are doing well here in western Wisconsin.
Great idea! How many rpms is the sump pump motor ? Keep up the good idea videos!
1725 rpm
Thanks you for sharing this video it will help me a good deal
Thanks for the video. I just got one of these for 50 bucks. And it came with 10 brand new blades! I just got the wood drive belt in and it seems to be off-center from the drive pulley. Do you know if there’s a way to adjust the lineup of the drive pulley off the motor and the drive wheel. That’s run by the driven pulley? It seems to be “in “ too far . I can’t see any way to adjust anything..
On mine, the drive pulley's mounting collar is held to the motor shaft with an allen set screw. that would allow you to move the pulley in or out as needed unless someone has replaced the motor with one that has too short a shaft.
Thank you I’ll Check .
The following isn't statement of fact, I'm muddling through my own experimentation in a similar area but with different materials, so these are more like questions. I have limited experience in the field of electronics... Question:- Having two coils in series significantly lowers LC resonant frequency, so once you reach Curie temperature, you can't drive much more energy into the workpiece. You need to reach higher frequencies and that requires a smaller coil (or smaller tank cap/s with much higher power rating?) You should be aiming for higher frequency (skin effect) so should use smaller single coils and keep the work moving to compensate for smaller coil area? Or.. you could get a 10+ KW system and just thrash the energy into the workpiece? On a budget, two smaller, separate systems running in parallel with different coil shapes might be a better setup? Ironically, my brother has a masters in electronics so I should ask him.... but we haven't spoken for years. :/ I'm experimenting with inductively heating non-ferrous metals and it was very interesting following you through this video. I learned a lot, thank you! 🤗
IMNSHO,Higher frequences seem to be more appropriate for nonferrous metals. You have to look carefully at the info out there to acurately see how this works. Re: "Or.. you could get a 10+ KW system and just thrash the energy into the workpiece?" Answer: Yup! Re: "On a budget, two smaller, separate systems running in parallel with different coil shapes might be a better setup? " Answer: Maybe. But those "15KW" (really about 7.5KW) units that are all over the internet do a pretty good job. Example: www.ebay.com/itm/335031067466? I hope this helps.
Thank you so much for making this video! I just bought the same saw!, however i think mine is a few years older, and didn't have any model number for it; i am so thankful you posted this, with all the relevant information you provided. I'm definitely going to check out your website for more information! Thanks again❤
Wow how cool
Is that can melt cast iron without graphite crucible? I think it is not. I saw another induction heat design can melt iron directly.
You are correct. This unit can not melt much cast iron without using the graphite crucible. The loss of energy coupling when the cast iron reaches the curie point is the problem.
Hello I have bought one of these VFD single face in single face out on my drill press can you help me to set it up please and thanks?
Sorry but I can't help you there. You might try googling" "help setting up VFD single phase in single phase out" Or--- contact the company that you bought it from and ask them for help.
Circuit please
spaco.org/Computing/COPSetupSchematicJuly12015.jpg spaco.org/Computing/ECU%20Code%20December%2005%202017.txt My Complete ECU project Playlist: kzread.info/head/PLVxWen9M87dAFoZqyj3iy_fyBfkWuESRC
Ollie was a very good man and great smith.
That's an achievement - 1'085 °C to melt copper plus a bit extra to cast - and all achieved with safety, reliability and control - good going! Thanks for the tip about mold releases and smoking the mold!
Would you play this hand? 3 Spades 3 diamonds Ace clubs Ace diamonds 2 spades Ace spades Jack diamonds (sorry, for some reason, I wasn't able to get a screen shot of it)
Tempting, in a way, but I wouldn't play it. These days, I first look to see if there's a king and an ace plus one immediate move of some kind before even going any farther.
I used your method of waiting for the right hand and it worked. But, it took close to 100 deals to GET that hand. Kind of took the fun out of it.
I understand. But you can jump in sooner by settling for a lower score.
@@frenchcreekvalley gosh, thanks for answering!!! Glad you are still around. I play on the World of Solitaire site and have a 19.57% win rate compared to a global rate of 16.06%. Obviously, it's better than everyone else who plays there, but it seems awfully low to me.
I've become convinced that the products we buy from China are meant to drive us insane. Kind of a psy-op thing. I have a VFD that has instructions that even as an engineer I do not comprehend. The words are terrible interpretations that have multiple meanings and no reference to anything we use here. Its maddening, and a sad statement on where we are as an industrial nation...sorry...consumers of foreign made products. Thankfully, I'm old, and don't have to make a living with this stuff.
Looking at the parts and thinking back I dont know that most of todays kids would have the attention span to build one of these
I hear you. BUT--- My grandkids and the greatgrandkids still ask for the later model set stuff whenever they come to our house!!!
I had an erector set back in the mid 60's. Dont remember anything about it other than I had one. Dont even remember if it was a metal or carboard box. Just recently at a garage sell I picked one up in a shoe box for $5. Its called "The Erector", m-6734. Dont know if all the parts are there. It did have the manual several other sheets of paper including an order form. The very small pieces were all stored in small plastic boxes so it appears the original owner did take care of it.
I think you've hit on a fact of why farmers and country people in general always used to have large families/lots of kids and then grandkids. At least before Hollywood and corporate America started programming everyone that the kids should all aim to grow up and move away, get to the big city and "make something of yourself". Surviving the country into infirmity depended on the kids starting to take over the heavy lifting at some point. Learning something about nutrition/herbal medicine and learning to stay away from the pill doctors can be a huge difference too. My father in law is in better shape now at 90 than he was 15 years ago.
Frenchcreekvalley, Excellent work, I have a 2500w ZVS and a mosfet burned out. I couldn't find a schematic, so I developed it with reverse engineering, it's simple. I don't know how to upload a photo of it.
Thanks for this, very helpful. Could you tell me what material your work coil sleeving is ?
Insulating Sleeving and insulating flat stock for my induction heating experiments: Φ1~40mm White 600°C HIGH TEMP Fiberglass Sleeving Wire Cable Insulating Tube www.ebay.com/itm/153050276433 I usually order the 6mm sleeving. It is flexible enough to fit easily over the 1/4" O.D. copper tubing that I use for most coils. I did buy some 8mm sleeving at one time and it works okay, but is a little loose on that tubing. Update, 3/1/2021: Back in 2019, I did order some smaller sizes of sleeving when I was doing the cartridge casing anneal project. I got some for 3/16" OD tube and some for 1/8" OD tube. I also got some ceramic sleeving from: www.mettleworks.com/hot/index.html
Replace the lm317. The problem is in it. Had the same problem with recently bought lm317 in store.
Something I have just recently learned about protecting electrical generation systems and electronics is that a EMP Faraday cage needs to be multi layered rubber lined and basically water tight to have a chance to survive the "High Frequency" damage. Other wise all this kind of effort is all for not post /SHTF. Just stating better safe than sorry . Shalom
It is interesting that some folks have problems with water in the system regardless of how dry the fuel / wood. Other folks like this inject water into the burner to cool things down / charcoal DEMONSTRATED HERE and yet Most interesting is where some folks inject steam into the engine to greatly improve engine performance . / wood COMPONANTE SYSTEMS DO HAVE THEIR ADVANTAGES .