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• 
  @smolbug29753 күн бұрын

  genuinely terrifying shrapnel potential xD I can see why face mills are preferred for this type of process.

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  @be0076 күн бұрын

  i like your enginering idea,s ! but I wonder if those dovetail slides don't get very hot and wear out quickly? I don't think dovetail slides are made for fast movements? cheers ben.

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale6 күн бұрын

  Ben, That is a very good question. As always the proof is in the pudding. Regarding wear, the total usage that this will get in my lifetime is not likely to be enough to worry about. Regarding heat, it just doesn't happen. Remember that old shapers run on dovetails and they last forever, albeit most would be slower than the pneumatic actuation.

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  @TBFnn9 күн бұрын

  Cuáles son las dimenciones del largo, el alto y ancho de cada uno de los hierros usados? Cuadrados, ángulos, planchuelas. Así mismo también sería bueno saber las dimenciones de los demás herrajes usados en el proyecto. Parace un tontería, pero tampoco es muy seguro usar solamente el ojo-metro, se tienden a cometer muchos errores de esa forma.

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale6 күн бұрын

  No tengo ningún dibujo ni lista de longitudes de tubos. Por lo general, hago herramientas como esta a ojo. Sin embargo, puedo decirte que la mesa mide 600 mm de largo, a partir de ahí deberías poder escalar las longitudes de los tubos. Aquí hay un enlace con mucha información sobre cómo construirlo. www.dropbox.com/s/pveht1tyu8...ndsaw.pdf?dl=0 y www.homemadetools.net/forum/homemade-vertical-bandsaw-66678#post108045

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  @TBFnn6 күн бұрын

  @@MotoChassisByTonyFoale Mil gracias..

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  @alexchliwnyj59419 күн бұрын

  Brilliant tutorial. Thank you for making this educational video. I feel I could almost do this for my newly acquired lathe.

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale9 күн бұрын

  You might like the follow on videos here is the full list. kzread.info/head/PLyn2snGjYlHw_e4LomNphh8KleeqPiqpz

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  @radiopasillo411110 күн бұрын

  viejo garca

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  @chipperson312326 күн бұрын

  What is the RPM of this motor?

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale26 күн бұрын

  IIRC it is 1500 rpm on 50 Hz supply and 1800 on American electricity.

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  @chipperson312325 күн бұрын

  @@MotoChassisByTonyFoale Thanks for that reply.

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  @johnlambo13526 күн бұрын

  Can you tell me more about how you made this Bridgeport to CNC ??

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale26 күн бұрын

  The mill was CNC from new in the 1980s. Fitted with ball screws and an Anilam control. The motors and their drivers were good quality but the control was well outdated when I got the mill in 2008. I removed the Anilam control, kept the motors, slides and drivers and fitted a Galil controller card and control it with a PC. You can see details of the conversions here: www.homemadetools.net/forum/how-make-6000rpm-bridgeport-56661 and here is a link to my lathe ball screw conversion: kzread.info/head/PLyn2snGjYlHwvzi0ztHJVwwFANxyTc2Kj

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  @johnlambo13526 күн бұрын

  @@MotoChassisByTonyFoale Oke Tony thank you for reply... I have a BP but still all by hand ... Like to make it CNC . But i think i will do it a other way....

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale26 күн бұрын

  @@johnlambo135 Unless you need a CNC the size of a BP it would be less work to make a new smaller mill from scratch. and be cheaper

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  @johnlambo13526 күн бұрын

  Thanks for sharing. Is your Bridgeport in CNC ?? ANd did you change it with ballscrews ??

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  @johnlambo13526 күн бұрын

  Great. i have the same problem ;-)

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  @johnlambo13526 күн бұрын

  Verry interesting . Thank you for sharing !!!!

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  @makerspace533Ай бұрын

  There is a solid reason manual lead screws use square threads. On a CNC machine, a ball screw can be used because the driving motor applies a constant torque to the lead screw and holds in in position when movement is not wanted. If you put a ball screw on a manual machine backlash is reduced, but tool pressure can cause the screw to move. You would have to constantly hold the handwheel to keep the screw from turning. Back lash is not a problem, you have a DRO for measurement. Backlash does need to be considered if you have a taper attachment, but I don't think your lathe has one.

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  @bigbattenbergАй бұрын

  Pretty useless IMO as on a conventional lathe you always come in from one direction. Much more useful is a locking mechanism on all slides, locking any slide not in use will greatly improve any lathe. in fact I found a very well executed locking mechanism on the compound slide of the Colchester Triumph 2000 lathe at work which was a nice surprise.

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  @punkeasyАй бұрын

  Trading accuracy for speed is a no go in my opinion.

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  @zkarr0driguez836Ай бұрын

  You should have named the brand and the name of the tool

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoaleАй бұрын

  They were no brand name tools collected over a period. Try Harbor Freight or McMaster

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  @shea9960Ай бұрын

  Not to take away from everything you explain in the video as I agree with it all but just out of curiosity, wouldn't replacing the weight on the shaft with a slightly heavier weight have achieved the same effect?

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  @RustyInventions-wz6ir2 ай бұрын

  Nice work. Very interesting.

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  @hussainzaidi23062 ай бұрын

  Amazing ideas thanks mate

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  @stephenkanyojr.40422 ай бұрын

  You don't show how you mounted the bracket for the ball screw in the back. I would have drilled and tapped holes when you had the saddle on it's side.

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale2 ай бұрын

  I drilled holes in the bearing block and then spotted through. the block was spiggoted to the cross slide for alignment.

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  @kinbolluck4763 ай бұрын

  EVERYTHING SHOULD BE SLOW AS FUCK, WHY DOES ABYONE EVER GO FAST

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  @chrisgosling54083 ай бұрын

  A daunting task facing many of us with ageing machinery, I think the larger the machine the more option available until you get to micro lathes that use a more regular triangular thread form. A very soothing accent to go along with it also!

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  @blitzkrueg073 ай бұрын

  nice modification. however .03 backlash on a lathe cross slide means nothing as the cutter is always pushing back on the cutter. but i do understand why you did what you did.

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale3 ай бұрын

  Firstly it originally had 0.75 mm not 0.03 backlash. All I can tell you is that it made the lathe so much nicer to use and easier to control accuracy. If you watch the later videos you will see that I motorised the slides and minimal backlash is desirable for that. The recent videos show why it is even more important for me to have near zero backlash.

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  @blitzkrueg073 ай бұрын

  @@MotoChassisByTonyFoale .03 inch is nearly same as .75mm. I said i understand why you did it. i was just making a point that backlash on a crosslide is a moot point. I have worked on many lathes with .03inch backlash and made perfect parts.

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale3 ай бұрын

  @@blitzkrueg07 You did not specify inches in your first post only .03

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  @peterwilkinson29983 ай бұрын

  MINT

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  @spectator26463 ай бұрын

  Hello Mr. Tony i already i already watch this video of your a couple of times and im really impressed. But i cant find information about your controller. Is there any change you can share your controller and codes? Please help us😊😊.. thanks a lot sir tony..

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale3 ай бұрын

  Send me an email [email protected]

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  @spectator26463 ай бұрын

  @@MotoChassisByTonyFoalethank you sir tony. I already sent you a message on your email.

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  @cnccams14284 ай бұрын

  You don't sell this software, sir

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale4 ай бұрын

  It is my intention to sell it but I have some more work to do on it to make it suitable for general use. Send me an email and I will put you on a list to be advised when it is done. My email [email protected]

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  @cnccams14284 ай бұрын

  @@MotoChassisByTonyFoale check your email mr

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  @kenrobba58314 ай бұрын

  Good show ! ol’Boy

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  @jomercer211134 ай бұрын

  I have that same tumbler with the same lackluster results. I hope it has the same configuration as yours. I'll have to see if I can scare up a suitable hunk of steel with which to retrofit it.

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  @dmoore00794 ай бұрын

  Thank you for posting this, Tony! I just bought one of these for rock polishing, and noticed a bunch of reviews strongly advising against using it for that purpose. Instead of fabricating a different rotating weight, I cut the excess length from the original one and added some weight back by drilling/tapping a hole to thread a bolt to make a rough "L" shape. Just have to get some longer bolts & spacers, and we'll see how it does for polishing rocks!

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale4 ай бұрын

  I know nothing about polishing rocks but I would have thought that you would do better with a drum type tumbler. I prefer those but the noise is unbearable so I only use that when I am not in my workshop.

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  @dmoore00794 ай бұрын

  ​@MotoChassisByTonyFoale a rotary tumbler is better in terms of shaping and rounding rocks, but the smoothing and polishing steps are done much quicker in a vibratory tumbler. I just buttoned it all together, and it seems like it's going to do well. Stirring motion is good, noise is reasonable, and the whole assembly seems quite solid. Very impressed so far.

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale4 ай бұрын

  @@dmoore0079 Thanks for that. As I said I know nothing about polishing rocks. good luck with it.

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  @brilloestelar14 ай бұрын

  Hi. Congratulations for your youtube channel and for this video. Please, could you tell me the model and brand of the stepper motor and Arduino? Thanks in advance.

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale4 ай бұрын

  There is no brand shown on the motor but there are lots of motors available on the net. It is a NEMA24 4 Nm motor. I did try a NEMA23 2 Nm motor and it worked fine but I went for the larger motor just to be sure. The Arduino that I used is a Nano, but an Uno would do just as well. I have just used it to make some clutch baskets for a motorcycle so watch out for a video of that.

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  @brilloestelar14 ай бұрын

  @@MotoChassisByTonyFoale Ok, Thanks.

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  @randallmarsh4464 ай бұрын

  If you seal those air vent on the motor you will burn the motor windings up. Those holes are to vent the heat and keep it cool especially under a load.I recommend do not do this. Do not seal those vent holes unless you like replacing motors evry day. ,In addition to brushes wearing out frequently or exessive arcing when running ,load or no load use a choke in between the power suppy and the motor. A microwave transformer has been well known to eliminate arcing using in a series on the a/c side before the rectifier and a capacitor between the rectified voltage and the motor.. to get more info on the size of caps see you tube. there are plenty of vids explaining size and uf rtio to voltage formulas .

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  @randallmarsh4464 ай бұрын

  The solution to that steel dust problem is put a duct around the intake of the motor and place a few bar magnets and an or a irfilter ..and use a vacum ventilator to suck the dust created by the tool into a collector or ejected outside the bulding.

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  @laserfalcon4 ай бұрын

  Very clever 👍

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  @RustyInventions-wz6ir4 ай бұрын

  Very interesting. Nice work

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  @charleskutrufis96124 ай бұрын

  Thanks, Guess I'll need a tumbler to go along with the ultrasonic cleaner. Always a pleasure.

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  @stephenmainwaring5125 ай бұрын

  are you tony foale frame chassis manufacture from 70s if so this is steve mainwaring rode one you tz350 chassis owner cigy poole found your video interesting I have gone from manual to CNC haase mill lathe got excel d40 cnc be not needed but be interesting in doing conversion like you done were did you acquire electronics if you don't mind kind regards steve mainwaring

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale5 ай бұрын

  I have to plead guilty to your first question. Here is a one min video which you might find interesting. kzread.info7NpMMKi6BLE Send me an email and I'll send you some details of the conversion. I do the electronics and programming.

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  @devilvortex15 ай бұрын

  left or right screw?

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale5 ай бұрын

  I got a RH screw but it should have been LH.

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  @7LegSpiders5 ай бұрын

  Will you share the program? Parts list?

• 
  @javiermartinez61185 ай бұрын

  Interesante

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale5 ай бұрын

  A PDF file with a full explanation and more example can be downloaded from s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/hmt-forum/tonyfoale_polygon_turning.pdf

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  @republicofvegans7123 ай бұрын

  ​​@@MotoChassisByTonyFoalethe link doesn't work. If possible, please post in on your website

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale3 ай бұрын

  @@republicofvegans712 I just checked and all the links work for me, try this kzread.info?event=comments&redir_token=QUFFLUhqazBzQ0VwWVp3U3NTS1pvY1E2UTBmb20tUnRkd3xBQ3Jtc0trcW5OZHlzWnc5Y1Joc2Z5OFBrZnB1ejIyR04zYVUtUHhhUE4tdjNkcUxPa29OVjZYem1SWVpKdTA1aEZBNThyOFdHWUxRbERKYmJmMV93M1RKTy1PQU8xMEQ0b01xOGdLbjhIWDk3Q3NZa2MxUHozUQ&q=https%3A%2F%2Fs3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com%2Fhmt-forum%2Ftonyfoale_polygon_turning.pdf

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  @charleskutrufis96125 ай бұрын

  I guess I will have to stay with the old screw on. I could live another 73 years and not duplicate that impressive result. Thank You for posting, I see something new and learn something I would have never thought of every time I watch you.

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale5 ай бұрын

  Never, ever, think that you can't do something. Just do it. Even complex projects can be broken down to simple steps.

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  @charleskutrufis96125 ай бұрын

  Thanks!

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  @daveanderson23165 ай бұрын

  Nice

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  @charleskutrufis96125 ай бұрын

  Finding your channel was my good luck, Thank You

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  @charleskutrufis96125 ай бұрын

  This video was especially interesting, I've been thinking of a ball and screw for one of my machines. Thank You very much. will be watching the other video. The way you found the center of the rear was very smart. Thank You

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale5 ай бұрын

  Glad that you found it interesting. Here is a playlist with all my lathe modifications kzread.info/head/PLyn2snGjYlHw_e4LomNphh8KleeqPiqpz

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  @charleskutrufis96125 ай бұрын

  Thank You ,Sir,I will be watching them all.Charley@@MotoChassisByTonyFoale

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  @umierina96595 ай бұрын

  Please make a video to fix the tailstock which is down

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  @user-eo2ow8mi4g5 ай бұрын

  Good day! I've been through all your episodes on the conversion of your cross-slide to use a ball screw and linear slides. Very, very nice results, well explained. Your control electronics are understated, and I have a few questions on that topic . I have recently been playing with different stepper motor drive circuits and specifically working with a drive IC that allows "Micro-stepping," which means the stepper motor can move in fractions of a full step : e.g. half-, quarter-, eighth-, sixteenth- and so on. The results have astonished me in terms of the incredible smoothness of rotational motion achieved. It's the smoothest I've ever observed in any servomechanism, and I've engineered servos for over 25 years using all sorts of motors. The integrated circuit I'm using is the DRV8711 made by Texas Instruments. It has a number of programmable registers which (along with a decent DC Current Probe and Oscilloscope) can adjust the current supplied to the stepper to almost PERFECT sinusoidal waveforms. The process of determining the register values takes a little bit of effort, but it is SO worth it. The results amazed me, and I have been around the block more than a few times in my career. If you want to get away from Click - Click - Click listening as your steppers move, this is definitely a good way to do it. Motor stays cool as a cucumber, has all the holding torque it's capable of, and the drive electronics never even get warm. Have you investigated this part? If not, perhaps you should ... 🙂 Also, when designing autopilots, I found a way to ELIMINATE the effects of the inherent backlash in the typical aircraft control system, including things like a huge old restored Antonov biplane driven by stretchy "boat cables." There was a trick to it, which was to .. No, on second thought .. perhaps best not say publicly. But it worked like a charm.. We could talk about that subject one day, if you're interested. It would apply to any servomechanism dealing with lost motion issues, including the ones you have been working with. -- Chuck B, a cranky old geezer retired to Belize

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  @vvmrace5 ай бұрын

  Always nice to build your own machines.

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  @Alanbataar5 ай бұрын

  Tony, what a lovely tool. And timely, as I'm restoring my '69 DT250. Thank you!

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale5 ай бұрын

  Glad it was helpful!

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  @marianodiaz4615 ай бұрын

  Hi Tony, great idea! The only thing that I would add is provision for grinding wheel dressing ,

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale5 ай бұрын

  I have that. I only put it in place when needed.

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  @836dmar5 ай бұрын

  More people should see such ideas. It's encouraging to see some of our imaginations come to life. Excellent content!

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  @chip-load6 ай бұрын

  I notice the grinding wheel rotation is in the same direction as the wheel. I always thought it best to grind opposite directions but maybe the surface speed difference negates that idea? Your thoughts?

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale5 ай бұрын

  Great question but they are rotating in opposite directions. Looking at it from the working end the wheel is rotating anti-clockwise , so the drum motion at the junction is upward and the sparks clearly show that the grinding bob is rotating clockwise, its motion is downward. However, sometimes when grinding you get better results with them both in the same direction. Variable speeds are normal on "real" grinding machines but I am getting a good finish with fixed speeds.

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  @chip-load5 ай бұрын

  Opps! Thanks Tony, I missed the rotating direction of the drum. :-) @@MotoChassisByTonyFoale

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  @billdoodson42326 ай бұрын

  A nice little video. The best bit for me was right at the end with the almost throw away line. "I have got to get it done so I can test it on the track in March." Brilliant to see you are still getting your leg over, so to speak.

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  @MotoChassisByTonyFoale6 ай бұрын

  I'm nowhere near done yet.

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  @billdoodson42325 ай бұрын

  @@MotoChassisByTonyFoale Glad to hear it. I'm a number of years behind you but am hoping to get my old Harris Magnum II back on the road for the TT this year. Will be 40 years since it first went over.