I'm a Jack of all Tech when it comes to all manner of nerdy things. I obsess about consumer goods, electronics, and technology. I am often pouring scores of hours researching and evaluating. Friends often come to me for advice because they know I've done my homework. Since I'm already doing the work - why not share it with you lovely folks.
I'm open-minded about what I review or create, so I'm always open to suggestions.
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Instead of putting tape all over my plugs, I have clips for my helping hands which have heat shrink tubing on each jaw
I DID build my own. They wanted $200 Each for Snake-Oil Cables. I Got Two 10 Ft lengths of Jacketed 4 Conductor 12 Gage, OFC Tinned with Silver for $15 Each. Lil shrink Tubing + Banana Plugs (which I had) -- couple Hours time and I had Great Performing Mains Cables for Under $20 Each.
Can I buy? please
how's the cable holding up? does the techflex slip?
So far so good. Pretty happy with it still. ☺️
you waste so much cable
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For homemade plumbuses, always push your dinglebop through a grumbo so your fleeb doesn't fill up with its own juice.
Dude you should send them to India a lot of people can’t afford new phones there
Tinning/soldering the wires and then put it into a screw/crimp connector is very bad for the conductivity. The contact area is greatly reduced.
важнее меньше соединений (без бананов, так как это лишние соединения) и в квадро кабелях провода для стерео надо соединять крест на крест по диагонали, это в вики написано к такому типу кабелей.
great video, how aboout xlr balance speaker cable ?
Lots of great advise, however pre-tinning or soldering wire that goes into a mechanicaly secured (set screws) is considered poor practice and may compromise the connection.
The more cables I shield the quieter my room becomes. In fact I just finished shielding my HDMI cables and lo and behold the room become slightly quieter yet again. When I took the punt and swapped my audioquest black lab sub leads for the more expensive chord shawline sub leads, it was as if I was hearing my Rel subwoofers for the first time! "Quality cables don't necessary make speakers sound better but what they do provide, is best possible path for your speakers to sound their best"
There is a complaint about soldering, when you solder cables (or something else), the tip of the soldering iron should be thicker than the solder object itself (this is the law of heat transfer) - then the soldering will take place quickly and the solder will lie flat / beautiful.
You don't seem to know what you are doing when You definitely don't know how to make speaker cable
Toll-lala-lala 😘
I made my own cables using tech flex and they looked really nice but when the tech flex got dusty being on my tile floor they were hard to clean off so I removed the tech flex and only used a little shrink wrap, they still look nice but are much easier to clean
I hated those plugs, the only good thing was that they would not fall out but they had lots of movement because the banana plug is thin and felt like there was very little metal to metal contact going on in the jack portion except for the small contact part of the plug(tip only) that would spread, if you like a stiffer connection with more metal to metal contact then don't bother with this style banana plugs.
But what if my problem is the stock dock, most likely a faulty motherboard? I'm looking for a reliable replacement.
Sorry to hear that. I’m not aware of any reputable replacements. You might want to go to a video shop and pickup a used dock. Even if it’s aesthetically ugly or damaged, that’s just cosmetic. As long as it’s functional, you can always take the insides out of the used one and put it into your current dock.
the cable separation can be made better and more noble than with a shrink tube. great plug I also made my cables with it
Just saw your video now! do you realize how much contaminant the sticky part of the tape has!, and then you twisted all the copper with a sticky part of your fingers! And then adding solder to the Copper adds another layer of connection, another layer of resistance! That would be the same as addid solder to the banana plug before you put it in the speaker binding post!
You could’ve put multiple phones in 1 mailer dude that’s a lot of material used
Simple and clean! Digging it the most! Sinn Fein Byrne
hi. What is the diameter of the speaker cable?
Plugs in speakers cables are not important if you have a 3way terminal on your speaker. Use the bare cable to terminate to the speaker or amplifier if possible. The less High Resistance points, the better. If you have to use plugs or spades, get better quality ones that have less pitting. Research this.
This cable is overkill... You don't need 2 wires each channel... Maybe unless you are pumping more than 3kW each ...
You really should heat your surfaces before adding solder. You don’t get the same bond by just dabbing for a tiny second on large metal pieces like a guitar jack.
This is true. He is using flux though which really helps with cold joints.
Great video. Love the professional look of the tech flex and heat shrink on the cables. Was easily able to follow your steps and order the right parts for the job.
Great video, good work, but you should NEVER tin a cables end, when you'r going to fix it with srcews: the solder will not remain stable and the screws will eventually loosen. Crimping with ferrules is then the better solution...
...a hammer, 2 chain saws, a snow shovel, and a bicycle pump...
Hi, I was delighted to watch your video. We have developed a great audio cable and we wanna invite you to review it. If you are interesting, please reply to us. Thank you
please do not solder the speaker wire. this makes it hard & not pliable for BOTH of the banana jack set screws to make good contact. the lower set screw is not for anchoring the speaker wire jacket.
what a load of rubbish, you're taking a cheap low quality cable and wrapping it in heat shrink and braid. This is not a premium cable it is a cable covered in braid to look hi-end.. much like most chinese hifi !
"Snake oil" is such a ridiculous trope. Isn't "premium" an antithesis to "snake oil" to begin with? You can't accuse 3rd party cables of being "snake oil" and dare to suggest that your DYI is premium and not "snake oil." The fact that you have those fancy meshes, gold plating, and carbon fiber on the connector are triggers for calling "premium" cables as "snake oil." About the only viable argument that exists is whether or not the COST of those "snake oil," "premium cables" are worth the gains they give you. I am pretty sure if someone on this forum asked you to build THEM a pair of your non-snake oil, "Premium" speaker cables, you will charge them the cost of the parts only, right? No way you'd charge more for your time and effort, right? If you charged more money than the cost of the parts to make it...does that suddenly make your cable "snake oil?" Understand this, if anything else. Conductivity and signal strength is at the very heart of what you're trying to achieve. If better cable geometry or better conductive materials are what help you do that, then it isn't "snake oil." Otherwise, you could just cut your entire video short and simply buy JUST the Mediabridge 14 Awg wire and call it a day.
tl;dr Premium in this video has two dimensions - cable quality and aesthetics. Snake oil refers to Co. applying pseudoscience, not to reputable Co. earning an honest buck. Net-rage misplaced. Long-form Haha, your passion is commendable, but some of your arguments are flawed, and that passion is misplaced. Snake oil was, in fact, a real thing. A little homework is in order, but I won't waste time rehashing its entire history here, so Wikipedia is your friend. Despite its origin, the term is drawn from a period where "Snake Oil Salesmen" would sell concoctions in the guise of medicine. The modern relevance here is cable companies adding all sorts of contraptions (e.g., batteries, etc.) to a cable and charging hundreds of dollars for them. There's nothing wrong with making money by charging for your hard work, but there's definitely something wrong with making false claims of improvements to sound and charging a small fortune for those lies - in fact, it's illegal. Concerning the word "premium" in the video, the only material/objectively premium thing in it is the quality of the cable: 99.9% oxygen-free copper as opposed to copper clad tin. With respect to the (subjective) aesthetics, then the other components are lower-cost alternative window dressing. Said window dressing gives it (subjectively) a premium look. That's it - no more - no less. Now your fictitious and contrived argument about me making a cable for someone charging for parts and labor is a fallacy or false argument. See previous paragraphs and the following. This video is targeted at someone looking for quality (hence premium - see the previous definition) cables but does not want to shell out a ton of cash. They may also be interested in replicating the look and feel of a genuinely premium cable from a reputable company (looking at you Bluejeans) and either don't want to shell out so much for the aforementioned labor or just likes to tinker and want to try and make it themselves - for funsies. Hence, the parts listed are all low-cost but quality parts. It's clear you are not the target audience for this video, and that's okay. If your time is better spent elsewhere, then, by all means, I encourage you to buy your cables. Again, Bluejeans is a fantastic company making fantastic cables. In fact, this build was inspired by one of their cables - which I actually own and use.
I'm sure the problem causing the joy-con drift are the R3 and L3 buttons. I've seen a lot of things pointing to this. Just don't press down on the joy-cons/Switch Lite joy-stick and everything should be fine. Something about something bending when pressure is put on it. I read this somewhere. I'm planning on getting a Switch Lite for Christmas so I've been reading up on this. It's not just the Switch/Switch Lite. Other controllers with similar buttons have the same thing happen from what I've been reading up online.
The only difference i would do is get prebuild cable on loan, teet which one you prefer, and then by the cable separately (and then diy). Speaker cables DO sound differently, so it matters which you choose. By building them yourself you save a lot of money for sure. Hundreds, literally
You’re not supposed to tighten it that much you should’ve clipped the plug finder. The part that touched the jack has a piece that’s meant to cut off if you’re using thicker cables like instrument cables
TIL, thank you. That wasn't specified in their instructions (online). I'll try that next time.
@@JackofAllTech No problem. I hope I can save you even a fraction of the time it took me to figure that out
Don't you think You should be wearing Gloves/ Mask / Ear Plugs and safety glasses before soldering ? Have you not heard those fumes are a poisonous and the solder gets hot and could pop up in your eyes ? Also if you wear ear plugs you not as likely to be distracted by the back ground music or your phone ringing , Allowing you to concentrate on your work.
Love making speaker wire! My new hobby
Meh i tend to just leave the cables bare, I myself am very much a stickler when it comes to cable management, thus I go out of my for as little of it to show as possible, so I myself tend to leave it bare as the heatshrink and tech flex are just for astheticts
Yeah, I can understand that. Most of my cables are bare wire. This was an experiment inspired by some Bluejeans cables I own. I didn't want to shell out so much again. I used them for my center channel since it's exposed and wanted it to look nice. I'd love to hear about your cable management techniques. I've seen some impressive cable management. There's a subreddit called cable porn that's impressive: www.reddit.com/r/cableporn/
why use the techflex at all , it adds nothing to the sound quality.
100% correct. It's completely unnecessary - purely aesthetics but some folks like the "premium" look so this video helps them learn how it's done. The only objectively premium thing here is the cable - 99.9% oxygen-free copper.
Can make stereo rca 2 in and 2 out with 3core wire?
Or use any old twin strand power cable strip an inch off the ends and tin with solder. You could not tell any sound difference in a blind test…….spend the money you save on beer.
100% correct. It's completely unnecessary - purely aesthetics but some folks like the "premium" look so this video helps them learn how it's done. The only objectively premium thing here is the cable - 99.9% oxygen-free copper.
will 1/4" techflex work with mogami 2319? i know 2319 is a bit smaller but i cant find any concrete numbers
I've been making my own cables for years. I use the black and gold Neutrik plugs, straight on one end and right angle on the other for maximum versatility. I use Canare GS-4 cable because I don't like thick cables.
Yep, this video is for those that want that premium look but don’t want to spend lots of $£¥€. Doesn’t sound like you’d be the right target audience and that’s okay. With that said, all that really matters in the end is a good quality cable and the right gauge for your run - everything else is either cosmetic or snake oil. 🙂
@@JackofAllTech I play bass in jazz combos and big bands and I'm seated behind a music stand with a big stack of music. My cables are 10 feet or less. I have a couple of 6mm Mogami cables also and neither I nor anyone else can hear the slightest difference between the Canare and the Mogami. They have the same construction except that the Canare is thinner. The signal is millivolts so it doesn't matter. What does matter are the plugs. Neutrik is the way to go and Switchcraft plugs are pure garbage. If you take care of your cables and don't leave them on the floor they will last for years. Also, teckflex coverings are a problem when playing with brass/wind instruments. There is a lot of liquid on the floor and it would be nasty to clean them.
Well then we’re in agreement because I’m endorsing Neutrik plugs in my video. 😉 The real problem with Techflex is microphonics - particular with instruments with pickups. I prefer a naked cable myself.
Ay your back!🤩
Haha 😅 - yeah, hopefully for good.
Great intro, excellent tutorial
Why, thank you! I’m glad you liked it. 🙂
Just in time! My smash game suffered from drift.
I hope this was helpful to you. 🙂
Never put solder on iron then iron to wire,always heat wire t Solder strait to wire
Yeah, they say that but that can also melt the surrounding materials. They also say that doing it my way doesn't create a good solder joint but that's not true. You can see it's nice and shiny and I've hung a 5-pound weight off of solder joints like this so it all boils down to technique.
Nice job!!
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it. 🙂
The cable does matter, but how about the cable plugs, does a 50cent plugs make a difference than the 3$ plugs ?
That’s a very good question. The Wirecutter had a review on plugs a while back. In it they took measurements, and if I recall correctly, the difference was negligible between a “premium” plug and a Monoprice plug. A slight increase in cable run length had greater measurable impact than did the plugs. Unfortunately, it seems that article is down right now but if it resurfaces I’ll link it.
@@JackofAllTech thanks!! I've been looking everywhere for someone who talk about cable plugs but can't seem to find one, 3$ seems unexpensive for cable plug but when you make a lot for making a pedalboard patch cable, it does adds up.