Пікірлер

• 
  @pdcutlerjr2 сағат бұрын

  How long are these Amazon parts lasting?

• 
  @mrbabiczj4 сағат бұрын

  Thanks for the video. It's a nice addition to the switch. I was wondering if the parts list you show contains everything needed (besides hardware) for what you had in the video. I read where you had something already installed at the dealer and I was curious if that was one of the parts you had listed? Thanks, James

• 
  @clooch1976Күн бұрын

  I just completed this but I really had to stretch that cord, I was unable to attach all zipties because of this. Attached with very little slack, just my cord perhaps ?

• 
  @depdocКүн бұрын

  Yes I did encounter the same thing. BRP didn’t want to give any extra.

• 
  @elbowtoe842 күн бұрын

  Same issue I have on my customer care a150 2014

• 
  @quintonporter12933 күн бұрын

  Very helpful services 👌 👏 love it glad this guy showed this 👏 👍

• 
  @RaulCPena4 күн бұрын

  Can I get a clarification for the positive and negative wires, did you use 3 positive wires and 1 negative wire along with two bus connectors?

• 
  @RaulCPena4 күн бұрын

  The switch is out of stock :-) might want to add a different one

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto15323 күн бұрын

  Thanks

• 
  @RaulCPena4 күн бұрын

  Where did you place the bus connections and do I need two of them?

• 
  @JarredSilver-ns4lk4 күн бұрын

  It looks like there’s no clutch on the front of the new compressor I bought a new one and also it looks like there’s no clutch, so is it an internal clutch? And it feels like it’s always engaged when turning by hand is this normal? Thanks!

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto15324 күн бұрын

  yes

• 
  @JarredSilver-ns4lk3 күн бұрын

  @@letsrolldiyauto1532 one more question when you replaced everything did you have to do a AC reset on yours? it because my AC button is flashing

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto15323 күн бұрын

  No I did not. But I did run an OBD II reader and cleared any codes.

• 
  @josephsansevero40995 күн бұрын

  I noticed that your 3m sealant was inside the tube. Does that matter and should i remove the bleed through? I'm thinking that the entire surface should be the same in order for the transducer to have an accurate picture.

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto15325 күн бұрын

  Doesn't matter.

• 
  @josephsansevero40995 күн бұрын

  Thanks. I bought everything you suggested. I'm going to install it tomorrow. I just bought the 2024 switch cruise limited. I have a few amplifiers in my console area not as clean as yours, but I'll use your video as guidance.

• 
  @jantnee6 күн бұрын

  Frank, The configuration file has fuel type as DIESEL, Is this correct for a sea doo switch? Or should it be set to gasoline? NMEA 2000 SETTINGS TANK=0 FLUID=DIESEL DAMPING=3

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto15326 күн бұрын

  I set mine to gasoline, though according to the manual, it doesn't matter. I'd suggest just copy and paste the parameters I listed in the description and put that on your card. I know it works.

• 
  @jantnee6 күн бұрын

  OK Thank You

• 
  @MOHAMMED_2466 күн бұрын

  Excuse me, what is the name of the piece?

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto15326 күн бұрын

  There is a link to where you can get it.

• 
  @MOHAMMED_2466 күн бұрын

  @@letsrolldiyauto1532 Thank you

• 
  @jantnee7 күн бұрын

  Frank, Does the engine hours show up on the Garmin with the engine gateway/monitor installed?

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto15327 күн бұрын

  The engine hours will still show up in the trip section of the Garmin, as before, and still on the console.

• 
  @pezpengy93089 күн бұрын

  wow thank you, extremely helpful in my decision to go with larger aftermarket lights. they look good though! i just need a bit more oomph.

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto15329 күн бұрын

  I like the look of the SeaDoo lights. But they are not extremely bright. They're good for coming up to a dock at night and driving slowly. But as you saw, they are not headlights like you'd see on a car.

• 
  @jessailyortiz662710 күн бұрын

  I have the same problem, but my car doesnt start? I need to jump start is it possible because of that ? Also once I shut it off, won’t start again ?

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153210 күн бұрын

  Unlikely. Use an OBD II reader to see what errors you are getting.

• 
  @Sm00th-0perator10 күн бұрын

  Amazing job.

• 
  @servicemaster201411 күн бұрын

  In getting to the final set up of the Engine gateway for my 2023 21' 230 hp supercharger I have found the Bi-color LED on the Device to blink red rather than green. However; when i turn the garmin on, the device light flashes light green then back to red then back to green then back to red and so forth. I believe I have set the wiring up exactly as you showed on the video. Just wondering if you would have a solution. Also I was wondering if I set up the SD card correctly by copying and pasting the text as follows: BRP_ROTAX=ON ENGINE_CAN_SPEED=500 ENGINE_0=1 ENGINE_1=OFF FUEL=GASOLINE

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153211 күн бұрын

  Copy and paste the code I provided below the comments. Re-flash the Engine Gateway. Make sure your NMEA2000 network is powered. Did you use the adapter cable? The first color flash indicates the Engine Gateway. Green indicates that the data from the engine has been received by the Engine Gateway. The second flash indicates the condition of the NMEA2000 network. A red flash indicates that no data is sent or received to the network. I'm going to assume that the red flash is the second flash. So you need to check the NMEA2000 network for proper installation and that it is powered. If you connected everything as in my video, then you'll need to make sure the ignition is ON so that the network is powered. Double check with a meter that the network is indeed getting power.

• 
  @servicemaster20149 күн бұрын

  ​@@letsrolldiyauto1532 Hi Frank, thank you for your quick response!! I have copied & pasted the code in it's entirety that you provided below the comments to the SD card starting with the Bold words: "If no data displayed then change CAN_SPEED to 250" and ending with the last code just prior to "End of File". Should I have copied the code text only rather than copying the bold statements as well? I then checked with my meter the voltage coming out of the red wire that I had plugged in to the lower left corner of the fuse box and then to the yellow NMEA 2000 cable. I checked the voltage inside of the red cable where I could pull apart the small black twist apart fuse holder. The meter showed 12 volts with the ignition on and showed no voltage with the ignition off. I then re-flashed the SD card to the device with the ignition on. Device blinked red. I then turned on the Garmin. The device showed 2 blinking green lights, 5 seconds apart showed 2 blinking red lights then repeating itself. I did connect the adapter with the female end of the adapter to the mail end that I removed from the dummy port on the front of the coolant tank which left a male end that I put back to the dummy port. Obviously I connected the other end of the adapter to the in line connection end of the device which left an unused male end. Honestly I couldn't see any other way it would connect. I did try to add a photo of how everything is connected in the engine compartment for you to view but my computer would not allow me to do so. Is there a way I can send the photo via text message or email? You could DM me at 435-630-6155. Thank you in advance.

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto15329 күн бұрын

  @@servicemaster2014 On your NMEA backbone, each end - that is in-line with the length of the backbone - need terminators. Devices do not get plugged into these ends. Only the port(s) coming out at 90 degrees from the backbone should have devices connected. In the basic one device network, there should be a terminator at one end, then a power connector on one 90 degree port, the device at another 90 degree port and then a terminator at the other end. Are you set up this way?

• 
  @servicemaster20148 күн бұрын

  Yes, I have set up the back bone precisely the way you described with terminators in line on both the top end and bottom end. Yellow power cable to 90 in center of back bone. Top 90 cable to Garmin. Bottom 90 cable to device.

• 
  @depdoc8 күн бұрын

  I’d suggest contacting Yacht Devices support. It’s possible your device is defective.

• 
  @GHohnl11 күн бұрын

  Frank, would the battery monitor from Yacht Devices be something compatible with the Switch Garmin and your NMEA backbone?

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153211 күн бұрын

  Good question. I have looked at the website and read the User Manual. Here's my thoughts. The Engine Gateway will give voltage readings. The Battery Monitor shows voltage, amperes and temperature (with an additional external temperature probe). I don't think the amperes is going to give me any real additional information. If I look at voltage, before starting, it needs to be 12+v. While cranking, it should not drop below 9.6v. If it does, it's a bad battery. When charging, it should read 13.5+v. For normal operation, that's all I really need to know. If I suspect a bad battery, I'd go for the battery tester anyway. It will fit into the NMEA 2000 backbone, but I don't know whether or how it would display on the Garmin EchoNap. And finally, at a cost of $189, I'll pass on it due to the limited information it gives. The battery tester at under $100 is my preferred route.

• 
  @richtrot12 күн бұрын

  You saved me a lot of time. Thanks for sharing.

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153212 күн бұрын

  Great

• 
  @R3DS0X13 күн бұрын

  How does this work in lieu of a fish finder, or does it? Thanks!

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153212 күн бұрын

  It really doesn't. You'd need a transom mount with nice side view for a good fish finder. Like the GT56. This is a basic depth finder.

• 
  @R3DS0X13 күн бұрын

  How does this work in lieu of a fish finder, or does it?

• 
  @sbmallik214 күн бұрын

  A detailed and through video that includes all actions. Thank you sir!

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153212 күн бұрын

  Thank you

• 
  @gregoryjbeal14 күн бұрын

  Frank, thanks I installed a battery switch last year in my 2022 Switch 230hp, worked great. This year my dealer replaced the IBR Module under warranty after it failed to go into reverse with "IBR Module Error". Tech said they've had problems with all 2022 IBRs. But it keeps "locking" and tech says he has to use his laptop with connection in engine compartment to software reset and unlock IBR. Realized that every time I turn battery switch to Off, the IBR ends up "locking". But worked great last year before this IBR replacement. You have any idea why? Is there a way I can access whatever the tech uses to reset/unlock IBR?

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153214 күн бұрын

  Even though you turn off the battery, check the battery voltage. A battery tester might help. (I did a video on a battery tester I evaluated.) I've read that low voltage can cause the IBR error. Also, for me, a low voltage kept my IDF from working. But for the software reset, you'd need to get the software and dongle attachment to get into the ECM. CanDooPro.com has the decoder and software, but I think it's a little expensive at $429. Plus, if you decide to go with that, call them first and make sure you get the right product.

• 
  @mannyleggio301315 күн бұрын

  Hey Frank. Still having issues. I have green leds flashing on both devices, however, the TA flashes at a faster rate. Also, it seem like they’re not communicating with the Garmin. I don’t get a screen to change fuel capacity and everything is blank on the Garmin gauges. Any idea?

• 
  @mannyleggio301314 күн бұрын

  I’m such an idiot. Lol I forgot to plug in the cable from the backbone to the Garmin. It was hiding and I didn’t even notice. lol. All perfect. Thank you again for all the help.

• 
  @tosinfajemibola108315 күн бұрын

  Thank you for sharing this video sir. I just changed mine yesterday using your guidelines and it was so easy. Please keep it up.

• 
  @PeterChristopher-vg7bg15 күн бұрын

  Peter Christopher

• 
  @PeterChristopher-vg7bg15 күн бұрын

  Hello

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  @PeterChristopher-vg7bg15 күн бұрын

  Please I will always need your help on I am a mechanic in Nigeria we're all this new model Mercedes I do found it hard repairs is possible I will need your WhatsApp numbers

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153214 күн бұрын

  @@PeterChristopher-vg7bg I don't have a WhatsApp number. And I'm just a DIY guy.

• 
  @christopherfernandez230516 күн бұрын

  Love the JetBoat Pilot 3-D registration numbers, have them on my switch and they look so good!

• 
  @karazx116 күн бұрын

  Did you use the same sized ring connector at both the battery and the terminal board?

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153216 күн бұрын

  Yes

• 
  @gezzy4k18 күн бұрын

  Good job , thank you so much

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153216 күн бұрын

  Glad it helped.

• 
  @williammartinez990621 күн бұрын

  Smart video

• 
  @shottown91121 күн бұрын

  Do you ever notice depth flashes and it stops working at speed?

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153219 күн бұрын

  Yes. That is normal. The depth finder is sonar and does not work in air. It neds to be in a liquid (water). When you start getting to speed, there's cavitation under the boat and these air bubbles interfere with the sonar. Also, the latency (time between the signal sent and signal received) may have an effect on the accuracy. The more expensive transom mounts will read depth under speed much better.

• 
  @303Estates23 күн бұрын

  Great video!! Thanks for sharing. Where did you put the new 2nd battery, and what are specs on that new battery. Do you have a trickle charger hooked up? Keep up the great work!!

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153219 күн бұрын

  Look for my high capacity video. It will show the location and installation as well as the battery and mount specs.

• 
  @contactexperiencer5725 күн бұрын

  Thanks for taking the time. I’ve used your instruction on several upgrades to my 23 Switch. Great videos

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153219 күн бұрын

  Thanks

• 
  @BassicVIC25 күн бұрын

  2:51 Nowadays cars are not only confusing but confused : You press the Handbrrake and you get a phone message.

• 
  @andrehafrian40826 күн бұрын

  Hi Frank, so when I recharge the system, high pressure side gauge it’s still at 0 psi the compressor is kicked on and vents blow a bit of cold air. Low pressure side remain at 30-35 psi. Do i have a leak at condenser or expansion valve is sticking?

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153219 күн бұрын

  Make sure that the gauge hose is fully seated. If you're sure t's fully seated, you might want to check for leaks.

• 
  @Grantibus26 күн бұрын

  Helpful video but the paper drilling template was put on the wrong side. The curved end follows the inner curve inset on each side of the front.

• 
  @jonathanburnham62727 күн бұрын

  Frank, would you consider doing a video on servicing the wheel bearings on our Sea Doo trailers? We’ve had our boat for nearly a year & I think it’s do for a grease refresh…

• 
  @commonsensehack106928 күн бұрын

  I subscribed after watching about 5 of Franks Videos. Thank you. You Rock Frank!

• 
  @Sour_cars28 күн бұрын

  I wish I saw this video 4 months ago. Im glad to see how to see it now.

• 
  @cwpaters29 күн бұрын

  Hi Frank, this video is great, i have 2 actuators sitting in my garage ready to fit both or just the drivers side if the issue resolves with just 1 actuator. I do have a question though which would help greatly, my drivers side is locked on, if i change the actuator on that side donyou know if the replacememt position of the actuators are in an open or closed position? Or does it not matter?

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153229 күн бұрын

  Shouldn't matter. But I's put both actuators in the Parking Brake Off position. If one actuator is faulty, the you may need to double check manually to see if the parking brake is actually off before fitting the new one.

• 
  @robg665029 күн бұрын

  Did you get the winch from JetDock? I don't see it as an accessory on their website and I've been looking to add an electric winch.

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153229 күн бұрын

  No. Look in the link below for Strong Arm winch. I needed to have the mounting plate (on the dock) drilled for the StrongArm winch.

• 
  @machargs12329 күн бұрын

  Hi frank just done my e class both sides and won’t calibrated with a diagnostic tool but getting another one to try any advice please Mike Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto153229 күн бұрын

  There really isn’t a need to calibrate. Just activate and deactivate the break a purple of times. If it won’t go, then deactivate and manually open the brake (the motor needs to be off the vehicle). Replace the motor and it should be good.

• 
  @jonathanburnham627Ай бұрын

  As a Switch owner, we never hit the water without our mini-jump pack! It’s unfortunate that Sea Doo sells our boats with a sub-par battery set up.

• 
  @hg9129Ай бұрын

  Thank you so much for putting this video up, my Mercedes park brake alert went on today. Hopefully it’s as simple a yours. Also my ac stopped cooling today

• 
  @TerenceDixon-kb8oiАй бұрын

  The six screws on top did they come with yours

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto1532Ай бұрын

  Yes

• 
  @ozzysautorepair351Ай бұрын

  So how would the high capacity battery will be charging?

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto1532Ай бұрын

  It's connected to the engine stator, just like the smaller battery. If you use just the high capacity battery, all the terminals just attach to the high capacity battery. See the video on adding a switch to select between the high and low capacity batteries. When the high capacity battery is selected, all charging and power are directed to and from the high capacity battery. When the low capacity battery is selected, everything to it.

• 
  @Chesterful1Ай бұрын

  Great video. Very helpful. Only one criticism... I would not put those two terminal posts in the pontoon section as the flush hose sprays water everywhere.

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto1532Ай бұрын

  They could easily be put inside the engine compartment. But they are stainless automotive terminals and a car's engine compartment does get wet in the rain. The pontoon flush is also with fresh water and very infrequent. I haven't had any issues or evidence of corrosion.

• 
  @mannyleggio3013Ай бұрын

  Hey Frank. Thank you for all the videos. Awesome. Question, do I need to download the firmware first, then edit it, or just create the txt file and copy to the SD card and install it on the device?

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto1532Ай бұрын

  If there's a firmware update, then download the firmware. If not then just copy the txt file to the SD card and put it in the device.

• 
  @mannyleggio3013Ай бұрын

  @@letsrolldiyauto1532thank you so very much. You’re the best.

• 
  @philippe94416Ай бұрын

  keep it under the seat or in the glove-box not in the trunk, because if you need it to open the truck you are stuck: It happened after a battery failure in a W204 requesting some reset after exchange. The trunk would not open, luckily the scanner was at home and not in the trunk.....

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto1532Ай бұрын

  You can use the hard key to open the car door. Then open the hood. Then attach a battery tender to the jump points. Now with the system powered, open the trunk.

• 
  @ritkid1Ай бұрын

  Thanks for the video! I just bought a 2016 GLE400 that did not come with CarPlay. Did you have Mercedes flash your infotainment system? Or is it aftermarket? Thanks!

• 
  @letsrolldiyauto1532Ай бұрын

  First, you need to make sure your Command (Infotainment system) is version NTG5s1 or later (manufacture date of 01/2016+). If yes, you can get an OBDII activation tool off of Amazon for under $25. But if your Command system is earlier, don't try it as you'll screw up the Command system. My GLE has Apple CarPlay. My wife's 2016 GLE does not. She has an early one with a manufacture date of 12/2015 and cannot get CarPlay.