Join me every week for new videos where I share tips and techniques to help take your props from basic to movie quality.
Like these videos and want to support?
www.patreon.com/vanoaksprops
Show your support with VanOaks Props merch
shop.vanoaksprops.com
Пікірлер
love the idea. Was wondering if where your fishing line passes into the posts if you actually extended the tubing slightly further out and then bent to the direction the fishing line is going it might give it a smoother transition and maybe avoid the cutting in. cheers again for another great video
To reduce weight of lantern it could be 3d printed as well. Glass could be replaced with blister packaging or clear PET
Bearings on the pivot points would help immensely. Also for any holes the line is passing through, those brass compression fittings have a perfectly flanged brass tube that can be glued into place and creates a smooth rounded edge for the line to ride on. Also, look into abrasion resistant line like dyneema or spectra. It is the strongest line you'll find. It even has a higher tensile strength than steel braided cable
Question: Wat if it was suspended from a "hangman's tree" instead? Too much work?
Awesome job, Derek!
The washers that are on the pitman arms of your motor are most likely getting in a bind and locking up momentarily thus causing the line(s) to get tangled. They need a more positive free movement such as a bearing. Also, really good fishermen are very particular about how they tie fishing line to things such as hooks to prevent breakage. There are several ways they do their knots and even use lubricant to tie them so as not to jeopardize the strength of the line when pulled tight.
Thanks for the tips, I’ll have to look into those upgrades.
You are always brilliant with your videos .. thank you very much!
Is it sticky though?
Not at all
Hi Derek, thank you for your tutelage! I will add this to my “Must make” list. Can you tell me more about the fencing? I really like the decorative “pickets” that fill in the frames. Thanks again!
Sure thing! They’re resin cast based on some iron pieces I purchased at KingMetals.com. I made a silicone mold and then reproduced them specifically for this build.
It looks so good! I'm glad the two washes were slightly different colors. I think that's important with aging. I also think it could have used a small spritzing of a lighter color because sometimes aged stone has some light spots. That or a small amount of light colored dry brushing. But that's just a small nitpick. The finished result looks incredible
Thank you! I used to dry brush over the top but found that it really muted the weathering. Plus I’ve never really seen a similar look on real tombstones.
You really had to put on your thinking cap for this one! The finished movement looks great.
Great Halloween (updated) prop idea, thank you so much for sharing 💀🎃🪦
Glad you liked it!!
7:03 to cover the motor, perhaps make it a tombstone. And have it be the grave of a groundskeeper or something. Like on the ground maybe a false grave that has maybe lights & a shake to it... perhaps a small fogger tube blowing a light fog over the immediate area of the "grave".....
Looks good, I like the debug process too.
Amazing project as always. Stage prop designer here. Here is what we do to combat sticky lines. Whenever we use fishing line (spider wire) for small stage props, we always run it through as much 1/4 air line nylon tubing as we can. We can bend it around items , paint it and the action still remains smooth. Zip tie in place. Stage crew usually breaks the props before the spider wire and tubing wear out. Another trick we do to smooth out actions is hard tie/secure the main line (under tension) and then connect the motor or release mechanism to a key ring and have it pull on the hard tied line. Our goal is to try to control all motion and not rely on gravity unless the item is in a free fall.
I’ll have to look into that. Thanks for the tip!
Do you have a means to elevate the motor above the fence panels? It may be easier to get a floating motion if it's already sort of floating.
I don’t.
I love seeing your process for improving the lantern.
I love a good problem solving video!
I liked how you went back and revisited a previous project to make improvements!
It may not be any better, but I wonder if 3d printer bowden tubes could work for the path through the post. They're PTFE, so they'd be low friction and they should be able to handle the line running through them... maybe :D
That’s actually what was in there but the fishing line wore channels in it.
Looks pretty good 👍
Awesome improvements....glad to see you revisit this..... Although the lantern itself is great, classic look, what I did on my floating Lantern prop was make the lantern in all foam. I lightened it up to be just about 1.5oz compared to 1.5lb lantern I found in Amazon. I took a chance to recreate the lantern in foam to lessen the sag for going across the whole yard, which is about 30ft. run back n forth. 🎃🎃.
I had a prop similar to this for 6 years and the answer is swap to braid line and stop using mono fishing line.
What is the typeface you're using? I'm always on the hunt for good looking tombstone typefaces (not the cheesy "creepy" ones)
I don’t recall but it’s nothing fancy.
I remember you mentioning the issues during our interview and I was having trouble wrapping my head around it. Great job on the upgrades. I am constantly fixing, reworking and upgrading my props, it's a never ending process.
Hey man! Great video as usual! They make very thin braided fishing line that is colored green or black and has a smooth coating to go through the guides easier. It also has much higher knot strength and abrasion resistance. Maybe give it a try?
Love the fact that you revisit project to make them more efficient or in this case a better product well done !!!
Thus is a suggestion not so much for the mechanism, but to hide said mechanism better. A hollow (maybe MDF?) tombstone encompassing both the motors and levers, built around both the front and back of the rear portion of the fence, as to make the fence look like it was mounted onto the sides of the tombstone. And, of course, the tombstone has to say something about the Hallowed Haunting Grounds and Gary Corb.
I love that you're revisiting an old project. I think instead of using a washer on the motors, use a roller bearing. You should be able to find the correct shaft and outer diameter to cover the bearing with a piece of pvc pipe, so you have an easy place to anchor the fishing line. Also firmly mount some small quality pulleys as guides for the lines coming through the posts.you could probably recess them into the wood,to help hide them. I don't know if you'd want to go through that much trouble, but I think it would end the problems you're having.
I’ll have to look into that! Thanks for the suggestions.
Those corner brackets are genius!
There's a design I've seen of a triple-arm cantilever system (like a Calder mobile) with a motor suspended about 8 to 10 feet above the ground. It takes some doing to get the counterweights just right but the effect is incredibly good. The lantern's gentle bobbing and truly random pattern is amazing. That solution obviously wouldn't work with Derek's design but I hope he can figure his out. He's got a few months to solve it 🎃
Good job🌟
Hey Derek! Having seen your floating lantern gag in person, I can attest to how great it looks in situ. For the friction-wear on the fishing line - have you considered small pulleys attached to the posts, rather than eye hooks? I would think that not only would the pulleys mitigate wear, but might provide for smoother motion/movement as well.
Great idea!
Great video.. I have a long line floating lantern that people always love. Even with a ton of other special effects the simple ones always work great.
How did you bend the aluminum
It’s relatively soft and can be bent by hand or with a few taps of a rubber mallet.
I love how floaty the new version is! It seems half the fun/madness of a project are the workarounds. We all look forward to seeing the next stage of the lantern’s evolution.
👍
Amazing work 🤩
Thanks a lot
okay thats super cool
Looks good. I would add some chips to the parts though. If its been used long enough to rust, it would be used enough to have some chips/scratches
What did you use for the gloss clear coat? Also, this process reminds me of the question I asked you during a live stream. My question then was if you knew of any good methods for creating a faux, brushed aluminum look. And while I know this isn't a brushed look, it is still milled aluminum. I think achieving a really convincing aluminum look can be tricky too. Gray paint instead of gloss black seems to be an interesting angle of approach.
Allclad aquagloss clear. As for faux brushed aluminum, I've heard, but never tried, dragging 0000 steel wool through the metal paint layer to create those brush lines.
@VanOaksProps looking forward to the end results.
This is how i do it as well. Ur work is very good
Thank you!
What is best foam board to metal?
I’d go with Gorilla Glue.
What metals are best to use with these foams
What are you building that requires metal to be attached to foam?
Love your videos! Can't find schedule 30 anywhere. Do you have a suggestion for an alternative? Thank you...
Worst case scenario you can just use schedule 40. A lot of hardware stores keep it with their sewage pipe - in fact some just call it "sewer and drain pipe." So if you haven't looked in that department or using that term it may be worth taking another look.
@@VanOaksProps WOW! Thank you for the fast reply! (and for the suggestion) I appreciate it.
@vanoaksprops. Are you running workshops at Mid Summer Scream again?
Yep! The workshop classes & schedule will be announced soon.
Awesome. Looking forward to the show. Let me know if you need help with any of the workshops.
Looks so good! The detail! UGH! I wish! haha. You really do inspire and make me feel like I wanna get up and make something cool. Thanks for sharing!
You can do it!
Looks amazing! I love how much detail you put into these! Thank you for sharing!
You are so welcome!
Might have to make me one of those plexiglass plates for my Dremel. I find myself having to bridge large gaps sometimes and that would really help out vs doing it with just the router guide like I do now.