Hey Tristan I just bought a complete clutch pedal assembly from 1A Auto on line for $180.00. I hope this helps. Thx Mike
@mypuppiessable3605 Жыл бұрын
Your water pump looks weak
@tristanlee85 Жыл бұрын
This was running on the hose or in the bucket (can't recall). Plenty of water pressure on the water.
@Kodi52042 жыл бұрын
Was it any louder when you switched from plastic to the metal pipe
@ryancollins24832 жыл бұрын
When switching to the dual regulator setup, did you have to replace your flywheel and stator to the 40 amp system with the 5 wires? I can’t see how it would work with the 16amp stator 2 wire system.
@suvekkawalban63812 жыл бұрын
I need some information on this can you help?
@harveynewman43332 жыл бұрын
every time i get a water cooled voltage regulator on a 89,thru 92, merc,v6, i use the stanley,voltage reg. from the yamaha,v4 or v6. they work well on the mercs, and have not had any come back yet for any failure.
@johnmmm2 жыл бұрын
Need more lighting at the workbench too much shadow, good pieces of information.
@SuperJlonergan2 жыл бұрын
your putting the eter there but thats reading same thing ellectronics reading...wires same circuit..no need for multimeter
@horacelee8803 жыл бұрын
This is a very informative video Tristan! I have an engine like yours but i`m having a tach issue.It will not give rpm`s .It just lights up when I turn on the ignition.Could you tell me which tach wire connects to the engine & the color of the wire? There are two wires that come out of the control box instrument connector that lead to the engine but I don`t know where they go or which one is the tach wire. Can you help me?
@diverseg3 жыл бұрын
I believe its the gray wire coming off of the same regulator he just removed, follow that gray from the regulator to the tach in the dash
@normanplombe28893 жыл бұрын
DUDE! "Since I don't have a DPDT switch...." is why your thing ain't working. That's why they provide a MOMENTARY on-off-on DPDT switch. This is a MOV (motor operated valve) not a solenoid. A momentary switch will, by its very nature provide that 0 volt break between switching. There's nothing wrong with your valve....at least there wasn't before you gave it voltage in one direction for prolonged periods...that's not the way it's designed, man. You're like the kids and women who cook power window motors by ramming them up and down by holding the switch too long.
@tristanlee853 жыл бұрын
Sorry, that isn't entirely accurate. For this particular case, yes, I had the wrong valve. The valve originally on the truck required continuous voltage. This Pollak version was not. I ended up returning it for www.amazon.com/dp/B0049UCF82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_KH7BKGEXWH7K7T386WK4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@patriciareynolds27293 жыл бұрын
my 92 f350 also had bushings worn out, dropped down and wallowed out the hanger. brake pedal bushing on other end ! started to remove seat and do it right, but shortcut it , miked hanger bushing, ordered copper bushing amazon and tightened into hanger behind splined shaft. bushing had coller to contact arm to clutch cyclinder arm.
@deanarndt53183 жыл бұрын
Looks like you need a water pump
@tristanlee853 жыл бұрын
How do you figure?
@deanarndt53183 жыл бұрын
@@tristanlee85 it doesn't look like much water coming out of the outlet
@tristanlee853 жыл бұрын
@@deanarndt5318 Ahh, probably due to the nose cone pickup and being just barely covered in the tote of water. This motor has never shot a stream of water out like you see on some, but it gets 5+psi at idle and 20+ while under load. I typically replace the water pump every season as cheap insurance.
@deanarndt53183 жыл бұрын
O ok
@aaronmott8183 жыл бұрын
What does this indicate since it only really changed drastically when you took one off
@dsruddell3 жыл бұрын
good job but now all that force is riding on that set screw vs the rod bottoming out in the new heim joint with the set screw just holding it in place
@caden016913 жыл бұрын
Any issues with it after two years of use?
@tristanlee853 жыл бұрын
Actually, kind of. After about a year of usage, I noticed my depth finder was notifying me of high voltage as the RPMs increased. I was seeing upwards of 17 to 18 volts. Occasionally would blow one of my trim relays so I would be stuck trying to jumper the posts to raise or lower the motor. I suspect some internals of this CDI unit went bad, or were on the way out. I ended up removing it and switching over to a dual regulator setup since it was a much cheaper alternative than buying another unit. I didn't want to keep running the CDI unit with fear of destroying some of my electronics.
@caden016913 жыл бұрын
@@tristanlee85 Yeah my OEM was doing the same thing 17-18 volts at idle. Sent the radio up in smoke. I just had a local shop order me a new OEM, let me know how that dual regulator ends up lasting.
@tristanlee853 жыл бұрын
@@caden01691 it's kind of a long thread but you can follow along here: www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?350400-Merc-XR2-upgrading-from-rectifier-to-regulator-advice-needed&p=3204505#post3204505 so far everything has been good. Just don't go with the cheapest Chinese rectifiers you can find. You'll see in that thread it actually became a recti"fire" 🔥.
@1coachdaddy3 жыл бұрын
I have the 1988 XR4 150 bored out to 175....That damn motor GROWLS.....hauls ass too!
@nickb86184 жыл бұрын
I’ll be doing the same to my 89 xr4 150. Magnet came off the flywheel crushed the stator. Got that all replaced and looks like the stator fried the regulator 🤦♂️ lol
@mcconn7464 жыл бұрын
Good video... Maybe I am wrong...but... I think you are suppose to use a DVA with your volt meter set on voltage to read the stator voltage. I don't know enough about it to say more but you might want to check into that. Stator voltage on my Mercury is suppose to be 200 - 300 volts as best I remember. I wish you well.
@tristanlee854 жыл бұрын
You are correct. I ended up getting a DVA for diagnosing ignition issues after making this video. While testing this with an AC reading was not technically accurate, the wide range of fluctuation was enough to diagnose that an issue was present.
@mcconn7464 жыл бұрын
@@tristanlee85 I am glad you posted on this video that you should use a DVA. Thanks.
@mustardtiger_04 жыл бұрын
Hey brother, so I just bought my first bass boat & it needs rewired... well the problem is I have no clue what I’m doing. Any chance you’d be willing to help a fellow angler out?
@savagepete19834 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this. I'm getting ready to do this similar mod on my M5OD's clutch MC.
@frndod904 жыл бұрын
Is this an EFI motor or Carburetor?
@tristanlee854 жыл бұрын
Carb
@nharris254 жыл бұрын
@tristan....what is the brand and model # of the valve that works correctly.
@tristanlee854 жыл бұрын
This was the one I ordered that worked correctly for my setup: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049UCF82
@anapinon45794 жыл бұрын
nharris25 lo
@Honda1k4 жыл бұрын
Why is it only affected by the bottom two cylinder
@shillizzle5 жыл бұрын
Any chance you might know where the rectifier is located on a 94 mariner 115hp??
@tristanlee855 жыл бұрын
I would check out the diagrams on www.perfprotech.com/mercury-marine-parts-catalog. Best to look up via the serial number range. Your serial number should be located on a plate on the engine bracket. It is my understanding that some engines had a rectifier and some did not. I believe my video title is mistaken because what I replaced was the regulator by CDI, not rectifier.
@The1ME4U5 жыл бұрын
mine looks like this: kzread.info/dash/bejne/aol3w9uoqseqeaw.html
@The1ME4U5 жыл бұрын
That doesnt look anything like my 200 ELPTO Mariner motor. Why does it say 150 on it?
@tristanlee855 жыл бұрын
The stickers were to visually "de-rate" the engine because the vessel is only rated for 175hp max. The serial number and title both show 200hp.
@dwaynefriend26985 жыл бұрын
200 HP? Motor has a sticker 150. My 150 xr4 VOLTAGE REGULATOR is bad just trying to change it out.
@tristanlee855 жыл бұрын
Sticker is 150 because the vessel is only rated for 175hp max. It originally had a 150, but was replaced many years ago for the 200, keeping the original hood.
@tristanlee855 жыл бұрын
I would check the part number on your existing regulator. I don't know if the same that I purchased will match your motor. I will say I've had nothing but success with this CDI unit though.
@dwaynefriend26985 жыл бұрын
@@tristanlee85 my uncle stiill has his Norris Craft boat. He got it back in 1976 or 1977. It out lasted him. He passed away years ago. His boat hasn't moved since he used it last. It's in a garage and it still looks showroom new. Loved those boats. Very fast and stable. I know your boat runs real nice with that engine. I'm thinking my 150 XR4 uses the same regulator
@nickb86184 жыл бұрын
1989 xr4 is the same setup 88 is not
@darrylmcleman64565 жыл бұрын
Good to let the setscrew thru into the pushrod. I am having similar grief with 98 Ranger. Where there is a will there is a way.
@ridgemanyt61545 жыл бұрын
Nice job! It was great seeing the entire assembly out in the open... the one I'm dealing with the pin that sticks out from the pedal snapped off, I think I'll buy the pedal assembly and remove the pedal... reinstall on the existing bracket. thanks for the video!
@superchargedpotato6 жыл бұрын
At 23:00 when he shot the rod out of the slave cylinder and acted like nothing happened. Lol
@tristanlee856 жыл бұрын
Colt Troxel who needs it anyway, right?
@cfoster54926 жыл бұрын
Hey any update on your repair? I’ve got the same issue and have narrowed down to the voltage regulator. Did you try the CDI regulator? I’m nervous to get it because of the differences in look but really don’t want to spend the 700 for the Merc original quicksilver part. Thank!
@tristanlee856 жыл бұрын
Clark Foster check out my follow-up video here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZoKjvNakdMbLYto.html the CDI product has worked great. The only difference with CDI is that it is not water cooled like the original. It comes with a special gasket to make sure everything seals correctly though. It has worked at wonderful so far.
@libertarianlife36516 жыл бұрын
TOTAL WASTE OF FUCKING TIME. 12 VOLTS IN , TERMINAL A IS MAIN, TERMINAL 2 IS AUX, WHOOPIE SHIT.
@adolfomodesto91736 жыл бұрын
You think is normal if the big ball that is conected with the crankshaft is stoked? I’m trying to buy a new boat for me with a 200 HP engine mariner 1988. But I don’t really know to much about engines boat. My email is: [email protected] Thanks a lot!!!
@tristanlee856 жыл бұрын
Adolfo Modesto I've never had this motor tore down that far before so I am unsure what you are referring to.
@eczmead6 жыл бұрын
Save time as these are available on eBay setup to bolt on and go without modifying the joint at all. Time is money. Can be done without taking out complete pedal assembly. Looks like this is taking all day and night to complete the project. Still good info if you can't get one from eBay.
@tristanlee856 жыл бұрын
You most certainly can get them on eBay already modified, but locally was 1/2 the cost and no wait. Doing this in the truck is absolutely possible, and I would have went that route had I not decided to make a video on this mod. It was ~45 min job with the video and explanation. Had to break up the work for other daily activities. :) Appreciate the feedback!
@MRJPP2U6 жыл бұрын
Friend, I can hear you say 10mm on the bolt and heim, could you give the leingth needed for both? Kind of a parts list???
@ridgemanyt61545 жыл бұрын
got a link?
@loganmiller31677 жыл бұрын
so how would I do this on my truck? I'm not an electrician, so I'm a little confused. I have port A set up to my right tank and port B to my fuel gauge and port C set up to my left tank, but I only get a reading on my right tank.
@tristanlee857 жыл бұрын
What truck are you working on, and what is the selector switch in the dash like? This was for my 89 F150. I used to stock selector switch which is a DPDT switch. So one of the poles fed fuel gauge and the other pole fed power to the in-tank pump. This way, when I switches, both the circuitry for the signal from the tank and power from the tank were switched together. If it's only a single-pole switch (SPDT), then you will not have any way of switching both the pump and the sender.
@loganmiller31677 жыл бұрын
Tristan Lee 1976 Chevy C20 . it has a 5 port switch, one is ground one is main power and one goes to the fuse box. under the truck it was set up so one wire sent power and I think one went straight to the tank? so I'm pretty confused.
@tristanlee857 жыл бұрын
Unfortunately, without seeing how everything is currently wired, it's hard to say what's necessary to wire this selector valve up on your truck. My F150 had a vacuum-style selector -- meaning that all the switch inside the cab did was change power to the 2 different pumps. Depending on the line pressure coming from the active fuel pump, the diaphragm in the selector value would mechanically change ports to allow fuel flow. Since I upgraded to the electrical-style valve, I ran all new wiring to the pumps and selector valve, and had to do additional wiring under the dash involving not only the DPTP switch, but also a relay to invert the polarity of the power going to the selector valve which causes it to change its position. You can find pictures of how I did everything here (www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1431138-need-help-hooking-back-up-dual-tanks-2.html#post16278620) though it may not benefit you much with your truck.
Пікірлер
Hey Tristan I just bought a complete clutch pedal assembly from 1A Auto on line for $180.00. I hope this helps. Thx Mike
Your water pump looks weak
This was running on the hose or in the bucket (can't recall). Plenty of water pressure on the water.
Was it any louder when you switched from plastic to the metal pipe
When switching to the dual regulator setup, did you have to replace your flywheel and stator to the 40 amp system with the 5 wires? I can’t see how it would work with the 16amp stator 2 wire system.
I need some information on this can you help?
every time i get a water cooled voltage regulator on a 89,thru 92, merc,v6, i use the stanley,voltage reg. from the yamaha,v4 or v6. they work well on the mercs, and have not had any come back yet for any failure.
Need more lighting at the workbench too much shadow, good pieces of information.
your putting the eter there but thats reading same thing ellectronics reading...wires same circuit..no need for multimeter
This is a very informative video Tristan! I have an engine like yours but i`m having a tach issue.It will not give rpm`s .It just lights up when I turn on the ignition.Could you tell me which tach wire connects to the engine & the color of the wire? There are two wires that come out of the control box instrument connector that lead to the engine but I don`t know where they go or which one is the tach wire. Can you help me?
I believe its the gray wire coming off of the same regulator he just removed, follow that gray from the regulator to the tach in the dash
DUDE! "Since I don't have a DPDT switch...." is why your thing ain't working. That's why they provide a MOMENTARY on-off-on DPDT switch. This is a MOV (motor operated valve) not a solenoid. A momentary switch will, by its very nature provide that 0 volt break between switching. There's nothing wrong with your valve....at least there wasn't before you gave it voltage in one direction for prolonged periods...that's not the way it's designed, man. You're like the kids and women who cook power window motors by ramming them up and down by holding the switch too long.
Sorry, that isn't entirely accurate. For this particular case, yes, I had the wrong valve. The valve originally on the truck required continuous voltage. This Pollak version was not. I ended up returning it for www.amazon.com/dp/B0049UCF82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_KH7BKGEXWH7K7T386WK4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
my 92 f350 also had bushings worn out, dropped down and wallowed out the hanger. brake pedal bushing on other end ! started to remove seat and do it right, but shortcut it , miked hanger bushing, ordered copper bushing amazon and tightened into hanger behind splined shaft. bushing had coller to contact arm to clutch cyclinder arm.
Looks like you need a water pump
How do you figure?
@@tristanlee85 it doesn't look like much water coming out of the outlet
@@deanarndt5318 Ahh, probably due to the nose cone pickup and being just barely covered in the tote of water. This motor has never shot a stream of water out like you see on some, but it gets 5+psi at idle and 20+ while under load. I typically replace the water pump every season as cheap insurance.
O ok
What does this indicate since it only really changed drastically when you took one off
good job but now all that force is riding on that set screw vs the rod bottoming out in the new heim joint with the set screw just holding it in place
Any issues with it after two years of use?
Actually, kind of. After about a year of usage, I noticed my depth finder was notifying me of high voltage as the RPMs increased. I was seeing upwards of 17 to 18 volts. Occasionally would blow one of my trim relays so I would be stuck trying to jumper the posts to raise or lower the motor. I suspect some internals of this CDI unit went bad, or were on the way out. I ended up removing it and switching over to a dual regulator setup since it was a much cheaper alternative than buying another unit. I didn't want to keep running the CDI unit with fear of destroying some of my electronics.
@@tristanlee85 Yeah my OEM was doing the same thing 17-18 volts at idle. Sent the radio up in smoke. I just had a local shop order me a new OEM, let me know how that dual regulator ends up lasting.
@@caden01691 it's kind of a long thread but you can follow along here: www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?350400-Merc-XR2-upgrading-from-rectifier-to-regulator-advice-needed&p=3204505#post3204505 so far everything has been good. Just don't go with the cheapest Chinese rectifiers you can find. You'll see in that thread it actually became a recti"fire" 🔥.
I have the 1988 XR4 150 bored out to 175....That damn motor GROWLS.....hauls ass too!
I’ll be doing the same to my 89 xr4 150. Magnet came off the flywheel crushed the stator. Got that all replaced and looks like the stator fried the regulator 🤦♂️ lol
Good video... Maybe I am wrong...but... I think you are suppose to use a DVA with your volt meter set on voltage to read the stator voltage. I don't know enough about it to say more but you might want to check into that. Stator voltage on my Mercury is suppose to be 200 - 300 volts as best I remember. I wish you well.
You are correct. I ended up getting a DVA for diagnosing ignition issues after making this video. While testing this with an AC reading was not technically accurate, the wide range of fluctuation was enough to diagnose that an issue was present.
@@tristanlee85 I am glad you posted on this video that you should use a DVA. Thanks.
Hey brother, so I just bought my first bass boat & it needs rewired... well the problem is I have no clue what I’m doing. Any chance you’d be willing to help a fellow angler out?
Thanks for this. I'm getting ready to do this similar mod on my M5OD's clutch MC.
Is this an EFI motor or Carburetor?
Carb
@tristan....what is the brand and model # of the valve that works correctly.
This was the one I ordered that worked correctly for my setup: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049UCF82
nharris25 lo
Why is it only affected by the bottom two cylinder
Any chance you might know where the rectifier is located on a 94 mariner 115hp??
I would check out the diagrams on www.perfprotech.com/mercury-marine-parts-catalog. Best to look up via the serial number range. Your serial number should be located on a plate on the engine bracket. It is my understanding that some engines had a rectifier and some did not. I believe my video title is mistaken because what I replaced was the regulator by CDI, not rectifier.
mine looks like this: kzread.info/dash/bejne/aol3w9uoqseqeaw.html
That doesnt look anything like my 200 ELPTO Mariner motor. Why does it say 150 on it?
The stickers were to visually "de-rate" the engine because the vessel is only rated for 175hp max. The serial number and title both show 200hp.
200 HP? Motor has a sticker 150. My 150 xr4 VOLTAGE REGULATOR is bad just trying to change it out.
Sticker is 150 because the vessel is only rated for 175hp max. It originally had a 150, but was replaced many years ago for the 200, keeping the original hood.
I would check the part number on your existing regulator. I don't know if the same that I purchased will match your motor. I will say I've had nothing but success with this CDI unit though.
@@tristanlee85 my uncle stiill has his Norris Craft boat. He got it back in 1976 or 1977. It out lasted him. He passed away years ago. His boat hasn't moved since he used it last. It's in a garage and it still looks showroom new. Loved those boats. Very fast and stable. I know your boat runs real nice with that engine. I'm thinking my 150 XR4 uses the same regulator
1989 xr4 is the same setup 88 is not
Good to let the setscrew thru into the pushrod. I am having similar grief with 98 Ranger. Where there is a will there is a way.
Nice job! It was great seeing the entire assembly out in the open... the one I'm dealing with the pin that sticks out from the pedal snapped off, I think I'll buy the pedal assembly and remove the pedal... reinstall on the existing bracket. thanks for the video!
At 23:00 when he shot the rod out of the slave cylinder and acted like nothing happened. Lol
Colt Troxel who needs it anyway, right?
Hey any update on your repair? I’ve got the same issue and have narrowed down to the voltage regulator. Did you try the CDI regulator? I’m nervous to get it because of the differences in look but really don’t want to spend the 700 for the Merc original quicksilver part. Thank!
Clark Foster check out my follow-up video here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZoKjvNakdMbLYto.html the CDI product has worked great. The only difference with CDI is that it is not water cooled like the original. It comes with a special gasket to make sure everything seals correctly though. It has worked at wonderful so far.
TOTAL WASTE OF FUCKING TIME. 12 VOLTS IN , TERMINAL A IS MAIN, TERMINAL 2 IS AUX, WHOOPIE SHIT.
You think is normal if the big ball that is conected with the crankshaft is stoked? I’m trying to buy a new boat for me with a 200 HP engine mariner 1988. But I don’t really know to much about engines boat. My email is: [email protected] Thanks a lot!!!
Adolfo Modesto I've never had this motor tore down that far before so I am unsure what you are referring to.
Save time as these are available on eBay setup to bolt on and go without modifying the joint at all. Time is money. Can be done without taking out complete pedal assembly. Looks like this is taking all day and night to complete the project. Still good info if you can't get one from eBay.
You most certainly can get them on eBay already modified, but locally was 1/2 the cost and no wait. Doing this in the truck is absolutely possible, and I would have went that route had I not decided to make a video on this mod. It was ~45 min job with the video and explanation. Had to break up the work for other daily activities. :) Appreciate the feedback!
Friend, I can hear you say 10mm on the bolt and heim, could you give the leingth needed for both? Kind of a parts list???
got a link?
so how would I do this on my truck? I'm not an electrician, so I'm a little confused. I have port A set up to my right tank and port B to my fuel gauge and port C set up to my left tank, but I only get a reading on my right tank.
What truck are you working on, and what is the selector switch in the dash like? This was for my 89 F150. I used to stock selector switch which is a DPDT switch. So one of the poles fed fuel gauge and the other pole fed power to the in-tank pump. This way, when I switches, both the circuitry for the signal from the tank and power from the tank were switched together. If it's only a single-pole switch (SPDT), then you will not have any way of switching both the pump and the sender.
Tristan Lee 1976 Chevy C20 . it has a 5 port switch, one is ground one is main power and one goes to the fuse box. under the truck it was set up so one wire sent power and I think one went straight to the tank? so I'm pretty confused.
Unfortunately, without seeing how everything is currently wired, it's hard to say what's necessary to wire this selector valve up on your truck. My F150 had a vacuum-style selector -- meaning that all the switch inside the cab did was change power to the 2 different pumps. Depending on the line pressure coming from the active fuel pump, the diaphragm in the selector value would mechanically change ports to allow fuel flow. Since I upgraded to the electrical-style valve, I ran all new wiring to the pumps and selector valve, and had to do additional wiring under the dash involving not only the DPTP switch, but also a relay to invert the polarity of the power going to the selector valve which causes it to change its position. You can find pictures of how I did everything here (www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1431138-need-help-hooking-back-up-dual-tanks-2.html#post16278620) though it may not benefit you much with your truck.