Hi,
Thanks for coming to my channel, here at `Richard Head Longbows` we have been professionally making the English Longbow for over 30 years, a true family business, we hope we can pass on our knowledge to you.
We make videos about the English Longbow, `How tos` and some comedy vlogs etc, we aim most of our videos at beginners, but we do some in depth videos too. If there is an aspect of bow or arrow making you want us to cover please give us a shout.
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Cheers, `Richard Head Longbows`
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That sound track is deep
thanks, I enjoyed making it
FULL VIDEO HERE: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mYKdusumZ6WdcZc.html
FULL VIDEO HERE: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mYKdusumZ6WdcZc.html
When exactly did the english/Welsh switch to socketed head from tanged heads? Was it Norman times?
Are you saing they used tanged?
@@longbows I figured they did, I've seen arrowhead artifacts that were tanged or at least they looked so
most of the tanged heads found in the UK were Roman
@@longbows good to know thank you
NICE!!! I’m pondering making an “ascham”
Go for it!
And now it snaps off much easier 😂
In 40 years of experince I have never noticed it make any difference to ones that are not pined on.
Well done. Thanks.
Thank you too!
Always good fun watching one of your vids.
Glad you like them!
Thanks!
WOW!!! Thank you so much! That is very kind of you!
Its all about wood, osage makes excellent flatbow, and very poor D bow while with yew is other way around, its the wood that decides the shape
We use Osage, in our bows, it makes a great English Longbow
@@longbows Yes, you would have to follow the rules of Yew in making an English Longbow of Osage.
Always enjoy your videos. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Great video guys
Glad you enjoyed it
In my opinion, the shape of the bow is dependent upon the type of wood used. The sap and heartwood of various trees have vastly different characteristics that lends then for different shapes, and efficiencies. The more soft the wood is, the better it lends itself to a wider flatbow style, while sometimes requiring a backing of some sort to prevent splintering of the wood. With English Yew, the sap wood is excellent at tension, while the heart wood is equally excellent at compression. This combination allows you to make a longbow of that ratio, while still allowing for a rather good, for any wood, efficiency of FPS/Lb ratio that you can not get with any other wood type.
Yes, and some bows can be made of an Osage Orange tree in the English design and have almost the same FPS as a Pacific Yew/European Yew bow.
cleaning up all those wood shavings for a cracked bow! -The other side of the bow is when your trying to make a quickie-fun bow and it turns into a belle! Thanks for sharing my man!
That’s awesome, now I need 10,000 of them, I plan on leveling my Archer and grind all night.
Great video guys
Glad you enjoyed it
Very interesting
Glad you think so!
I didn't know there was a difference between english and American long bows. I thought the flat bow was a completely different bow. I've also realized using factory boards is not a good way to make a english long bow. Lol 5 failed bows later your video helped me realize that maybe I should try to make a American long bow instead. Great information as always. Keep up the great videos.
glad I could help with some information, I hope you have better luck soon
My takeaway as well. "They made the rules so the amateurs couldn't make them". Me: amateur. rubbish at bow making. ditch the rules. My kids loved shooting their Hazel self bow, thanks for the inspiration! (still, it was not a good bow, but fun to make)
I've made many english longbows and a few ''warbows'' from factory boards since around me you aren't allowed to cut a single stick from the forest. You just have to stay away from pine or other soft woods that can't handle compression really well. And to be 100% sure, just order a bamboo backing for it. I've never had a bamboo backed longbow go boom, I even tillered one while I was drunk and the thing looked like a ramen noodle but still shot and never broke lol
Yes, and what people always think on American Style Longbows is they have to have a shelf always and , but some companies you can request without if you want like some brands making pre WW2 like some early Ben Person models. Then a Howard Hill is a specific handle design on an Amercian Style Longbow where is skinny to an almost triangle where most companies make like how Howard Hill or his nephew makes, and have so deep only Large/XL glove hand can fit becuse of size of Howard Hill himself with a straight/dished grip only where on some American Style Longbows a universal notched grip can be used as can have a rounded grip but rounded/English grip on a flat limb longbow is called some kind of primitive or if based on a tribes bow, tribes name. Now a Pope & Young grip is usually a wider reangle/square straight grip where is 90 degree angles on backside and is using as thin of a wrapping grip material as you can get like using very thin suede or thin deer/elk, with Pop & Young grip is usually very uncomfortable and bow can have a very skinny shelf or no shelf as long as using usually very uncomfortable grip. Some Pope & Young bows use a rounded grip but Pope & Young company called these American Flatbows or Native Indian Bows. Now this rounded grip is kind of like Indian brand calling their rounded grip longbows, Indian Longbows where bows were a native style using a round grip.
what is the music palying i nhte back ground ?
just some music I made
cool
thanks
I couldn't put my finger on what the difference was. I knew something wasn't right but am new to historical bows. Unfortunately where I am it's difficult and prohibitively expensive to acquire yew or ash. Pacific Yew isn't suitable for a longbow of any sort; the only Yew that grows in my area. I have been trying Poplar and am drying a Birch log to try and get a stave out of. But have only managed flatbows so far. Will have to watch a few more of your videos to see how I can change my approach to the process. Poplar works passably if you can get a young enough tree that hasn't twisted too much yet. But my best performing bow so far has been from a Willow, not sure what type of willow but it grows kinda like hazel. I may try some Cottonwood as my brother just took a couple down in his yard. Thanks for another great informative video!
"Pacific Yew isn't suitable for a longbow of any sort". Thats probably the most untrue statement I've read in a long time. Maybe it's better you stick with cottonwood, poplar or willow. Leave more Pac Yew for me.
Flat bows are more efficient that rounded back bows. I'm a bowyer who makes bows out of (mostly) Osage Orange, Hickory and Black Locust. I also never use backings. All my bows are selfbows. I've made one ELB from Mulberry (cannot find a source for yew). It is a beast of a bow (to me) at 80lbs@30". But my 55-65# Osage flatbows out-perform it, significantly. They also take less set. That being said, I love ELB's.. They are works of art.
Great. The "ELB" you made, did it bend through the handle?
@@longbows Yes it does! :-) Though I also didn't have a source for buffalo horn so I used deer antler for the nocks. Wish I had a way to share a pic with you.
as it bends through the handle you have made a Warbow not an English Longbow as we are describing and showing in the the video
@@longbows As far as I can tell, The British longbow Society makes no such distinction with regards to tiller shape. Only that the limb tips must not recurve.
Its not the tiller, its the fact it doesent have a handle section, as you can see in the video an English Longbow has a handle section similar to a `riser` section, the dips either side of the handle are called Buchanan dips (named afetr the person who made them) this is another thing that makes the difference between a sporting the English Longbow as used in the Victorian era (and the Olympic bow at the time) and a Warbow which has no handle section. Also being 80lbs its well over the weight for BLBS
Thank you for another informative video.
Our pleasure!
Now that's the type of information not available anywhere else, and that's why I am a long time subscriber of your channel. Without this channel I would be at a real loss for proper information on these details. Thank You!
So nice of you, really appreciate you being here for such a long time.
My American bow (JerryHill) has a spuare diameter a bit wider than deep in the middle and the tipps are vers
The Howard Hill style bows, are made with bamboo laminations, and gladfiber backing. Also most have an arrowshelf. Totally differant design.
Great video, thanks for the info!
No problem! thanks for watching and commenting
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I have seen odd bows where they are neither an English Longbow or a Flatbow/American Style Longbow Square Limb Longbows are what I am seeing where whole limb when unstrung are same on each side, I call said bow a European Medieval Longbow where you see bows in rest of Europe being made unlike in UK/Ireland.
I usually wrap some hemp cord tightly.
have you tried other methods?
@@longbows I've tried clamping them, but that allows be to only make a few at a time. The wrapping allows me to make dozens and store them to dry. Plus I do recreation at a castle and this looks more medieval 😉.
glad you have found something that works for you
❤
Wow impressive. How come this doesn't have any comments, lemme fix that.
thanks for fixing it!
@@longbows You're welcome mate!
Thank you, this was peaceful to watch.
Glad you enjoyed it!
A wonderful item for sure I got mine a couple weeks ago and it works very well !
Great to hear! So pleased you like it. Thanks for watching the video, we appreciate every view and comment.
I have made about two dozen ash arrows using a drill/router shaft jig. It works fairly well, some of the shafts are a bit rough. I think that your blank should be 1/2 " square and not 3/8's as I have done, and this would smooth the shaft a little better. I chuck the shaft into a drill to sand it between two boards and this works very well. Even so, I look at commercial ash shafts and they are a lot smoother than mine. Almost glassy smooth, and I wonder how they do that? Perhaps my router bit is not sharp enough? Is there a jig I can make to do the final smoothing on the routed shaft to get it to 11/32"? If there is I haven't seen it.
sounds like you have been having fun making shafts. the commercial manufacturers have some great machinery to get that smooth finish
@@longbows Yeah, I'm a tech so making jigs is second nature and to make arrows, the jigs are the important factor in keeping everything consistent. The only jig I bought was a fletching jig, because I wanted helical fletches. Come to think of it, I enjoyed making the jigs more than the arrows in some cases. I made my own shoulder quiver too. I shoot a Samick Sage with 40# limbs. One of the things with making ash arrows is that the tapers have to be ground and not cut. The pencil sharpener type taper tools just don't work on ash. It makes for a heavy arrow that will hit very hard. Now, I have to figure out a way of carrying a recurve bow on a mountain bike. I built a trailer for it, so that may be what I have to use. Archery is a hoot!
Really nicely done! Big laugh from me when the balloon dog appeared : D
Glad you liked it!
Haha!
Glad it made you laugh, have you watched the full version?
@@longbows Will do!
please drop a comment on it so I know you found it
That’s why they used a bigger thicker trunk with less knots in it , a bit like the way swedes make traditional skis where they split big trunks and have less problems
Thanks for commenting and watching. Who do you mean by they?
i actually believe in a barter system, your capitalist society has bred a thinking that preys on this kind of fear mongering. im going to go out and carve my bow, and there is noting you can do about me selling it online for $5 and ill sell my bow making knowledge for double. because i believe separating the worker from the means of production is wrong.
Is selling it for $5 the same as bartering?
How much is the weight of the arrowheads?
which one?
@@longbows the heavyest and the lightest
@@longbows and the needle bodkin typ7?
are you wanting to buy some?
@@longbows yes ,but i have to know the weight.
👍🫡
So cool , big thanks . So happy to have came across your amazing videos !!!!! Please keep up the great content gents ;)
Glad you like them! You can keep the channel alive by watching, hitting like and making comments on the videos. Also sharing the videos with others really helps, thanks.
Clamp so I can be sure there even pressure throughout cause that makes me feel safer about it
Thanks again to you both for sharing your skills. My desire to make an english yew war bow just keeps growing...... Thank you
no worries, glad to help
FULL video here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/gmmq186hpKqZXc4.html
You solved a big problem for me. Thanks so much.
Welcome, hope the rest of my channel can help.
Thank you sir Richard
You are very welcome
Amazing work ❤you use email colors?
thanks, not sure what you mean
@@longbows revell colors the little blue can ,its made for "emaillie" painting
Ah, I see, we say Enamel
Thank you for explaining this matter so clearly. I never could quite grasp what others were talking about when this came up, and now the light has finally blinked on. What a remarkable wood Yew is!
Glad it was helpful!
Beautiful work!!!
Thank you so much 😀
Just looked it up, £300 for a machine that's just a little motor and a few wheels. Archery companies really love ripping everyone off
It is expensive
Is the `nocking point` not in the center of the string? Is this dangerous for bow?
no, it's not dangerous, why do you ask?
@@longbows Thank you. I made my first bow and didn't understand it
An English Longbow?
@@longbows yes. Victorian longbow(carriaje). I learn from your videos. I have a lot questions.