Here you will find a selection of trailers, instructional videos, and hand-tool demonstrations. Rob is a hand-tool coach that tours all over the world teaching his techniques. Along with many woodworking products that Rob has released, he has recently released a brand new dovetail saw that he believes is the missing link to many dovetail cutting issues. To order any of Rob's products or instructional videos, visit www.robcosman.com
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Rob, looking forward to meeting you at Marc's place in St. Lous at the end of June. I've signed up for the Friday night meet and greet and both sessions on Saturday. I'm a long-time wood worker, but mostly in home construction. I'm retired and have been building out my wood shop to convert my skills over to furniture and hobbyist type projects. I've been watching your videos and Marc's for a long time, great ideas coming from both. This will be my first-time doing Dove Tails. I'm also a Navy Vet from the early/mid 1970s, not a wounded vet. See you soon 👍
I live in a 1916 house and all the interior doors are original and have these unsplit through wedge tenons. Definitely strong enough!
What fluid do you use for the stones?
Is that a sabot round next to your drillpress, or am I just really ignorant to what woodworking tools are used by pros?
That was a good video showing exactly what I need to learn to progress. One thing however, how would you cut a bridle for a door with sides in excess of 6ft? Could power tools still be used? as the manual way is far in excess of my abilities. Still a good, informative video. Thank you
I'm very tiny with adolescent size hands. Should I stick with the #3 planer or just go full board to the #6?
Try a #5, 6 is a beast compared to the 5
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks for the advice.
Thanks for the saw tips, I get why the dovetail saw is the best :)
I disagree. I dont think krav maga will work in a real fight. I'd train MMA at a local gym that fits your personality. Thank you for the video.
Very nice Rob
Very very nice. Really neat joint!
The first thing I do when I restore a Handyman plane, or any other with a painted frog seat is to use a sharp (but cheap) chisel and scraper to scrape off the paint. If needed afterward, the seat can be greatly improved after just a few minutes (or less) with a file. The real difference between the Handyman and the Basics is the materials they're made of. While the Stanley has the bones to make a decent, though very basic user. The Amazon one with its pot metal parts really doesn't.
Been waiting till I had the proper time to give ya rob.
If I were a rich guy, the kind of a guy who pays for craftsmanship, I'd prefer joints hidden and actual inlays made for decoration.
First, I enjoy all of your videos, and how you honor our vets. I was a medic then PT specialist but didn’t have to go to Viet Nam. I have turned a number of though built handles and can tell you there is an easy way to get perfect sized ends to your work. I drill a blank or two into 2” square of 4/4 stock. I glue it into the middle of a 3/8” dowel. Then I turn the square using a draw barred 3/8” collet for a Morse taper to the circumference of your handle size. I have a Nova live center that accepts 3/8 dowel stock. The same way, I can match the inside diameter of the ferrule. I have of a full set of collets from the Little Machine Shop or you an get them at Crafts Supply. You can do the same by tapping 2x2 stock to your drive center and live center screws. I get a perfect bushing out of wood that last for numerous turnings and keep your handle on the lathe.
Hm. To be honest, I don’t think this method is so much different from a simple through mortise/tenon. Why? In the end, the wedges are just replacing the „missing“ wood in the mortise and making it a non-tapered mortise again. The only point I see is the extra lateral pressure on the tenon that makes a difference to a straight mortise. Apart from that: nice piece of work. And great craftsmanship as usual.
I’m not sure what you mean by that. The wedges are, in fact, wedges, filling a wedge shaped gap left in the mortise. Thus making it that must stronger against tensile forces.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Hey Rob, thanks for the reply. I try to put it in a different way: looking at the mortise plus the wedges only, the result is a straight mortise. And in there goes the straight tenon. So apart from the extra pressure, there is no difference to a regular through m/t joint.
@nikolausreinke9966 but this isn’t just a regular mortise, it’s wider at the exit than the entrance.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking sure. But the wedges make it straight again. Like all the fuzz with the taper didn’t happen. I am sure this method is stronger than a regular m/t, but only if there are gaps in the joint. Which can be easily closed by the wedges.
@nikolausreinke9966 I think you’re really missing the point. The tenon, with the wedges glued on, is 2” at the top, and 1-1/2” at the base. The mortise matches this shape. Which means in order to pull the tenon back through the mortise you would have to fit a 2” wide piece through a 1-1/2” wide mortise. Much stronger than a regular mortise with parallel sides and edges.
your videos are amazing. thank you so much. i am basically a novice woodworker. my question is. if you start out with a 3/4 board. after all the planing it is probably only 5/8 or 11 /16 so if i am using boards for a project how to i make them all the same thickness thanks
That does make the process a bit simpler. I do like the looks of the conventional process better though. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
I can see how this would really tighten up my mortise and tenon joints. I'm not sure you need help with better fitting mortise and tenon. But it still seems the glue holding the wedge to the tenon is the same as the standard mortise and tenon joint. I'm not sure how this is stronger than standard mortise and tenon if I could ever make a perfectly fitting joint.
Great idea. My opinion is that the classic style of through wedged tenon is that the little bit of connection at the base was probably needed with lesser strength glues like hide glue. This isn't needed with modern PVA glue since it is stronger than the wood in most cases.
My initial thought was that this was only decorative as the tenon had no more glue surface than an ordinary through tenon but then I realized that the only short grain to long grain connection was on the wedge the tenon will have long grain to long grain, well done!
you sir are a master
I LOVED WATCHING THIS VIDEO, CAN YOU USE PLYWOOD INSTEAD OF MDF?
Thanks Rob. I love this joint. Actually I like the look both ways, but the new way looks like it could save time so I'll b giving it a try. I really appreciate your teaching. You talk us through it carefully and thoroughly and without obnoxious music or or other fluff. Very well done indeed sir.
Thank you so much I am so happy to find someone who does this freehand, I hit my blade against a buried nail in a piece of wood someone gave me broke a crescent moon shaped piece off the center of the blade had to grind it down so this helps a lot 😊
Rob gives people value learning lessons and doesn’t constantly try and sell products like dusty co lumber company. And yet dusty has more views and subscribers than Rob. Typical doings of festool. Rob you’re the man. The Woodworking community needs to do better. Support men like Rob, ignore men like Dusty.
The dimensions at 1:55 are clearly wrong. If the front and back pieces are 5L and the side pieces are 7/16T then the lid should be 4-1/8L x 3W, not 5-1/16L x 4W. Also, if the front and back pieces are 3W and the lid is 1/4T, the side pieces should be 3-1/4W, not 1-7/8W. I spent two days getting my pieces to those dimensions only to realize I had to start again. Other than that, pretty nice video.
Great video. Thanks for a refresher course. Gonna knock the dust off mine and put it to work.
I like how thorough you are at showing every detail of your methods of work. You're a great teacher. I have seen this method of wedged tenons in a recently released video of the late Jim Kingshott showing variations of mortise and tenons (about 37 minutes in kzread.info/dash/bejne/kaOO3MaMfZjFoM4.html) -- another wonderful teacher.
I don't understand it, Rob. In the best case scenario, the mortise would become one with the wedge. But then you have exactly an ordinary "classic" mortise and tenon joint! I guess that, if you are right, maybe the three joints are equally strong?
Don't think of the mortise combined with the wedges as the same as a straight mortise. the glue surfaces between the wedge and the mortise is often long to cross grain or perpendicular long to long grain. these don't get as good a bond as the wedge-to-tenon bond which is parallel long to long grain bond. think in terms of a widening tenon instead. It's an elegant solution. In reality, a classic mortise and tenon would be just as good in most cases. it's just a little bit less cool to look at.
@@idoReadme2 Sure it makes sense for aesthetics. I didn't think about the grain, your answer makes sense. Still, it requires that the connection of the mortise to the wedge to be extremely well made. Thanks!
beautiful lesson Rob. I especially appreciate the small comments on why you approach each part the way you are doing it, the things to be careful of, etc. All those points translate to most chisel and saw work. You break the process down so that it becomes something that a lesser woodworker can feel somewhat confident that they can make that detail. I teach a few woodworkers too, but my skill with hand tools, (except gauges for carving) is not as good as yours, (few people can say they have your skills). But most of us CAN make beautiful creations. We just need to design the pieces carefully and make something that we hope will last more than 100 years....
Manchue!!!
That is nifty. Never seen that design before.
Uno
Quattro cinco ses
@@Eeniemeeniemineoomoeee Te faltan dos y tres.
opinions are like buttholes everyone has one and they all stink!
Hey Rob, I just received my 2 Adjustars yesterday and I installed them both. One on my new Wood River 4 1/2 and the other on your highly recommended 5 1/2. I couldn't be happier. I'm approaching 75 years old and although I used to have super strong hands from playing the piano, they've gotten to the point where I couldn't enjoy these new planes. Problem solved. Absolute genius solution and I can't thank you enough. Fellow Canadian here, born and raised in Edmonton, now living and still working in California.
I bought this 5 1/2 based on his affinity for it. As I live and learn I am trying other brands, one Rob never even acknowledges the existence of. I have a Veritas apron plane and today my Veritas large router plane arrived. Too bad he’s affiliated with Woodcraft. I would like to hear something other than “Lie-Neilsen is the best, Wood River is next and everything else is junk”. …but I think he’s contactually obligated to stay away from Veritas.
I have been legally advised not to comment on that brand. It has nothing to do with WoodCraft, WoodRiver, or Lie-Nielsen. I receive no endorsements from any brands.
Thanks for solving the mystery. I buy stuff like your dovetail saw from you so definitely not slamming you. …and I LOVE the way that saw feels in my hand!!! …not to mention all the videos I have learned a ton from. Thanks.
Hi Rob. I’ve watched a lot of videos and trued to cut dovetails about 4 times now. All have been an epic fail. It’s hard man! I’ll watch this video and keep practicing.
You can put pieces of sandpaper on either side of the mitre slot on your tablebsaw and lap that frog without having to remove the yoke and adjustment lever
Thank Yoi Sir.❤
I have a No. 48 AND the No. 148. Love them both, but I think I might like the 148 a little more.
Rob, how about San Antonio! We would love to see you down here!
awesome stream
It is easier to stay at the top of the sharpening curve than it is to start the climb from basecamp.
Thanks, I learned a lot. i've only been (hobby) woodworking for fifty years!
Спасибо за видео! Великолепный результат!
I want to make large dovetails for a chair I’m designing
Man, you just never know what role Kurt Russell is going to take next. Dude escaped from LA and became a woodworker.
Love to see him do it with hardwood