This channel is about making real estate photography super simple yet still getting amazing results. My lightroom and photoshop tutorials make it easy for anyone to start getting professional results with the Flambient method. I've Been a full time real estate photographer for over 5 years making 6 figure income in a small town. If I can do it, so can you. Let me show you!
Another way I earn money with my camera is by shooting wedding videos. This channel will discuss gear that I use and we will talk strategy on how to shoot weddings from bride prep to the ceremony to the dancing.
Email: [email protected]
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Very interesting!
What is triggering the flash and camera when you are in another room? I use Nikon and only have one hot show. Thanks
I use the pixel wireless shutter release. Just make sure you get the right cable for your camera.
@@joefoto Thanks. Your videos are terrific!
How long do you save your raw files for? I always keep the edited photos, but I don't want to keep the raws forever since they take a lot of storage space.
I have a folder for raw files for each month. I save them until my ssd starts to fill up then I go and start deleting those monthly files. Around 3 months I start deleting.
I shoot with the GH5 using bracketed photos and all my clients have had nothing but good things to say. I use the Rokinon 12mm f2 and I feel it's a little soft, so I'm looking at the Laowa 7.5mm, not only to go wider, but I feel the quality of glass is going to be better.
I have the gh5ii. Very good photo camera. I need to use flash. How do you deal with color casts?
@@joefoto I outsource my editing and make it their problem 🤣
WOW! This is a fantastic timesaver, my friend. Thank you.
You're welcome!!
Hi Joe, I've really enjoyed your videos on your Godox AK-R22 and ML-CD15 light modifiers. I searched for those products and KZread sent me to Will Gay, another real estate photographer. He uses the Godox CS-50D kzread.info/dash/bejne/n4ud1bVpYcLMkaw.html (for reference), a lantern-style modifier, and pairs it with his AD400. I know you are always trying to create better images, it's worth a watch to see if it fits your style. Take care
Awesome. Thanks for sharing!
Yeee
Wow - THANKS! You nailed this one. Quick and easy.
Once I get my voice back, I have a new video coming that you will like. I've got a good system down that's different than anything I've done.
@@joefoto Great! Subscribed!
Can you please tell me the name of that L bracket and where did you purchase it. Thanks!
Well, it's from Amazon, but they discontinued the one I was using. Just search for "camera flash bracket" on Amazon.. I personally do not use this anymore. I do use the Godox V1 flash ontop of my camera with another Godox flash. The V1 works as a trigger as well.
Well, I absolutely butchered a house on Monday night, I wish I had seen this video first.
Ugh. Sorry. But....sometimes those are the most valuable lessons. Trust me, I still butcher photos from time to time. We are human. Don't sweat it.
Really well done - Thanks! BUT, here is a dumb question... HOW did you trigger your camera when you popped your flash from a distance? What device "pressed the shutter button" on your camera when you were several feet away in the first place? Like I said, dumb question, but that most basic part is a show stopper for me. Do you cover this in another of your videos?
Yes. I do have other videos on this. Its just a wireless shutter release. I think I have a link to my Amazon in description. If not this video, it's in a lot of my videos. Hope this helps.
@@joefoto Thank you. Watching real estate photographers on YT for example, with their camera alone on a tripod, they may walk to a far corner of a room and activate a speedlight or other flash. Are you saying they are also pressing a remote trigger button, or the flash they are "popping" contains a remote trigger? As you can see, I need the simple fundamentals of what is really happening/how things are actually connected. To be clear, I have used a remote flash for years BUT I'm pressing the camera's shutter button and the remote flash is not held by anyone; my on-camera flash is triggering the remote one. Now, I am trying to understand the reverse of that scenario.
I use a witless shutter release that plugs into my camera. I have a remote for that. The flash on my camera acts as a trigger to fire my other flash. I'll do a video soon
@@joefoto Ha! It looks like I actually already have everything needed except a cable that goes from the trans/receiver built into my camera flash to a plug inlet on the camera side of the camera (Olympus E-M5 MkII). Just ordered that little cable. Thanks for your help!
Nice video. I like how simple your workflow is
That's my goal!
Bro the difference before and after is insane 😮 Looks great 🙏🏼
Thank you. It was overkill, but just trying to show the potential and how the software works.
So f4 would keep everything in focus just like f8 but keep the light as if it's f4 so would f4 be enough for landscape photography? Is there any point to go higher on the F stop on m43
That is correct. I hardly ever go higher than f4 but with that said, some lenses are sharper at around f5.6. Just depends.
@@joefoto that's actually awesome thank you will try it out
I see you are using the ad600. Would a 400 equivilent be good enough for flambient. Ive been told 200 is too small, what are your thoughts
Honestly, now I'm using 1 speed light on the camera and 1 speedlight handheld. I do and hdr bracket for my ambient layer and blend in my flash layer. You don't need but a couple normal speedlight. I use the godox v1
Sorry…where you ordered it.
You can find it on Amazon.
Joe, what is the brand/name of the L bracket you use to connect the camera and light. Also can you tell will you ordered it. Thanks!! Keep up the good work.
I forget the brand and I checked Amazon and the one I show in video is currently unavailable. Just keep searching either ebay or Amazon for camera flash bracket or use the Godox v1 on top of camera. If acts as a flash and a trigger all in one. I have a new video coming out soon on my current setup. It's been working very well.
Joe, could you please tell me the name of the bracket that you attached to the camera and speed light. Also where did you but it. Thanks! Your videos are well done.
I dont remember the name but I got it off Amazon. I'm actually running with no bracket now. Instead I'm using the Godox V1 on the camera and that acts as a trigger also. I'm going to be doing a video explaining this setup very soon.
I use my hdr brackets to do the heavy lifting. so to save time i only pop the flash for the nearby roomand not for instance the kitchen and hallway you did there. if i do only that one house or im not in a hurry i will do what you do but when i have like 5 or 6 houses or i need to be quick then i do only the one flash and the 5 hdr brackets. Could you maybe do a video on how many pics you decide to take on a property like this. I thnk alot of us or even me.... even after 5 years of doing it... i still over shoot
Yes. I'm the same way. I typically will not do multiple flash pops unless there isn't any natural light in a nearby room for whatever reason. But I wanted to show this process as the full option when dealing with large spaces. So for not over shooting, injust make sure I cover every angle in an open floor plan and them typically only 1 or maybe 2 shots of the bigger bedrooms. For kitchens I normally only do 2 angles opposite each other unless it's big and fancy then I'll show up to 4 angles. Over shooting will save you time by not having to go back if you miss something. But don't go crazy.
How do you switch between hdr and flash without touching the camera?
I touch the camera by turning a dial. Don't be worried about touching your camera. I rarely need to align layers and if I do it's not a big deal. So many people get paranoid about that.
@@joefoto Thank you for your reply.
This is hilarious. I thought that was one of the biggest selling points to these flashes. How does someone not know about this before they buy them?
Well I must admit I bought it for an extra flash and never knew this but glad it has that feature. Use it every day
Хрень полная. Кадр совершенно не естественный. Вспышка убила всю красоту интерьера. Лучше бы включил источники света, которые есть в доме.
Just showing a method.
Nice result. I just had a new property with no ambient light so I ended up blending flash and then property lighting on.
Nice. I don't do this often.
I'm back with some experience to share! I just completed a residential property shoot where I used 5-shot brackets and a flash shot for each photo. When I brought the compiled bracket shot and flash into Photoshop, I tried a 50/50 Luminosity blend then compared it to the Color mode process you showed here. In every shot, the Color mode looked better! It provides a smooth, even blend! I'm sold on this workflow! I also really like the way you used the duplicated ambient and flash layers to make the ceiling color cast corrections (using the ambient that you tweaked in Lightroom), and the duplicate flash layer that you put into Darken Mode in Photoshop to tweak the windows. I'm considering what steps I can put into a Photoshop Action to set up the layers for quick editing. Thanks again, Joe, for your continued experimentation and sharing of your findings! Your ideas are making a direct impact upon my productivity!
Awesome! Thanks for sharing! I'm still learning too and probably will never stop!
How do you remove yourself carrying umbrella from the picture to create a final image. Anyway nice video
You need to so a layer mask. That's why you do both sides. Use 1 to remove yourself from final image.
Do you know how to make it look like its growing? Like to show expanding territory of a conquering empire
Well you would need to use key frames.
Did you have smudges on your lens? the photos look really hazy
I don't know. That was a long time ago.
Note: CPL (polarizing filter) loses you a few stops of light
Yes. I stopped using them. Flash takes care of glare for most part for me.
Thanks for that. I feel it's some time try and errors not everytime it's work correctly
I'm working on a new method that I will share shortly.
Enfuse gives a more natural look than Hdrmerge in LR.
Thanks for the tip!
Could we see a full workflow? Snapping the pictures, importing, editing, etc? I’d be willing to pay for something like that
If you go back to my earlier videos, I have a few full on-site shoots. Uploading is easy but I could do a video on that soon.
Why shoot with the lights off? My realtor insists all lights need to be on. Does create big challenges with orange casts
Lately I do lights on and change my flash layer to color mode. Does similar to luminosity mode. Ya. Most realtors want lights on so I only do lights off if there is tons of natural light.
Is there a budget flash you can recommend for a new photographer? Using an E-M10 mark 2 and the pro 8mm lens
Godox TT600. I use that along with the V1. That's it. V1 stays on my camera as my trigger and the other is mobile to do other rooms or window pulls.
Interesting method, but there's no control over ambient %
Yes. When you duplicate layer and make it darken mode, you can paint back in as much flash as needed. The color layer corrects for color similar to doing luminosity mode.
Great tip with the custom setting (which I've never really used in 20 years!) I do similar 'hybrid' technique, I figured I may as well do a bracket + flash just in case, and it is awkward to keep turning flash on and off to not fire etc. Geometric ceiling trick also handy
My olympus won't fire the flash when in bracket mode. So that's a huge advantage
Nice video !!
Wow i love this tutorial! Thanks so much!
And thank you!
Great video, Joe. I appreciate the information you share, Buddy.
Thank you! Always learning! Appreciate you.
Another fantastic video.. Thank you Joe
Thank you!
Thank you for another great workflow example! One offhand comment you made here is going to change my shooting routine! I have been doing what you suggested here regarding using C1 for the HDR brackets and then switching to C2 for the flash shot. I have been turning my flash on and off with each change on the camera. I haven't tested it yet, but if the flash won't fire on an HDR shot like you said, then that saves me two steps (on/off) for each shot. Thank you! I see you are using the Lightroom HDR Merge function. I've been doing that for a few months since I compared it to Aurora HDR 2018 and saw that Aurora was generating consistently distorted photos that needed straightening (lots of extra time fooling with them). None of those problems with the barrel distortion occurred with Lightroom Merge. Plus, the Aurora versions of the HDR pics had coloring and shadowing that didn't look as genuine as Lightroom. I paid less than $5 for an Enfuse registration code - money well spent! Then, a couple weeks ago I came across a video comparing the Lightroom HDR results with LREnfuse. So,since I love experimenting with my camera, I took four photos in the house with a 5-bracket set 2 stops apart and ran them through both processes without doing any tweaking before the merge. I saw a noticeable difference in the details with LREnfuse. The accordian blinds on the windows had more detail in the light showing through and the overall blend of the photo seemed smoother without the higher contrast from the Lightroom version. Then I took the middle single exposure of the four sets and worked on them alone to get the best-looking version of the single pic, simulating an ambient-only shot. Then I took both the LREnfuse bracketed photos and the single exposures and blended each one with a flash shot I had captured when I was shooting the brackets, using Luminosity blending. Then I edited them all to look as good as possible and then dropped the various versions of the photos into a folder so I could quickly flip through and compare the shots. I found that consistently (with those four room photos), the LREnfuse HDR photo with about 25% of the flash shot in Luminosity Mode produced the most detailed and pleasing version of each photo. Jpe, you have been showing the use of Color Blending in the past couple videos here. Are you using that now instead of ambient/flash with Luminosity blend? I have a small job I am going to be working on this afternoon (brackets and flash shot for each view) and will try your workflow here to compare. Thank you so much for your continued contributions to the community. Your input keeps things interesting! Note: as a Joe G. fanboy, I proudly use the same camera he uses and recommends, an Olympus EM-1 Mark ii and the Olympus 9-18mm lens he recommended over a year ago. I had one of the Laowa 7.5mm lenses he used in this video but sold it to get the zoom. Sometimes I wish I had the Laowa because it is a set-it-and-forget-it focus lens.
The floor near the chair is oversaturated . And in the sunlight, there's no color.
Ya. I fixed it later. Sometimes I get moving too fast.
Thanks man! I’m beginning to see how important it is to offer vertical shots in small spaces. Also flambiant.
Yep. Just another option. Thank you for watching.
extremely helpful!
Looks great, Joe! Nice tutorial 👍
Thank you.
I use the Godox system, and my only complaint is the mounting system. The plastic ring is large and a silicone mounting system similar to the magmod system would be nice, even if it was a separate accessory.
Ya. But it isn't all that complex but magmod Def had the upper hand when it comes to ease of use.
I see a few editing elements that I've also seen from Definative HDR's YT channel - if you haven't seen any of his stuff, check it out. I think you should make a duplicate copy the fill flash layer as both a color mode layer and a darken mode layer - then group them - that should immediately correct any color issues you were having - especially if you run the luminosity ambient over the top at a 50% opacity. Also if you make a color copy of the ambient and put a black mask on it, sometimes you can use it to recover grey discolored areas that show on wood when it gets over exposed with the flash - just group the two ambient copies and save that color copy for touch ups if needed. The technique you showed in this tutorial seems like a bit of a hybrid compared to definative HDR's technique - which I really like and have recently starting trying to incorporate - just did a 2300 sq ft house in about an hour and 15 with one light....All that said, I really like the globe as front fill - it did a great job. I'd like to see what it does on a a side to side pop as well. I wonder if that can modifier can adapt to the AD600 pro? Good job - i enjoy your videos and pick out new things from time to time - I appreciate the way you refuse to get stuck in one style and continue to try new things.
Thank you. Yes I have learn3e a lot from definitive hdr but he is too confusing and wish I could do what he does but can't grasp everything he does. I did adapt my godox globe by superglueing the ring to the ad600. I show that in another tutorial. One of my more recent ones. Thanks for your suggestions!
WOW! the BEST flambient tutorial yet. Lighten mode is my new friend. and the gradient tool to mask yourself out is key - great video!
Good to hear! Thank you!
Oh thats a great idea!
the only problem with using luminar neo for this is that it bleeds onto your houses and the tools to remove it are so bad that it adds a glow to your homes.
Ya. That is a flaw of this software but I've found the masking to be pretty good in most cases. I usually just do everything in photoshop now.
if you have 5+ flash pops, the list of layers and what order to stack them in the list becomes very confusing, as it seems to drastically change the entire image depending on their order. Do you have a guideline for what order you have the layers in? Sorry if thats a dumb question lol. Thanks Joe!
Go watch my latest videos. I've actually made this a lot easier.