Restoring classic cars on a blue-collar budget!
Follow along on the journey of rescuing and restoring a classic car on a blue-collar budget from start to finish! Featured on this channel is a 1974 Duster 4 speed car, my Dad's 1970 Plymouth Duster that I converted for bracket racing, and my 1967 Ford Mustang. On this channel you will learn what goes into restoring a classic car in your home garage. There will be tips & tricks, and how to videos for every step involved in restoring a classic car and the tools to do it with. Most of the subject matter here will apply to any classic car restoration. Please consider subscribing and I hope you enjoy the channel!
Find me on Instagram @lumpyidle
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My dip stick keeps shooting out with high rpm pulls and high speed
Sounds like a lot of crankcase pressure. There are locking dipsticks available.
Hello, I did the Borgeson conversion on my '67 a couple years back. It works great compared to the old, leaky slave cylinder! I'm looking at headers now and don't know which will fit with the Borgeson box. Which headers do you run on your car? Appreciate it.
I am running a used set so I’m not 100% certain, but I’m pretty sure they are either the Flowtech or Summit brand (also flowtech) long tube headers.
Just put a spacer gasket and it'll be fine. If it isn't and it leaks sand the damn carb flat. I've done it and it works fine not complicated
It wound up working fine with just a regular open carb gasket. I would of just expected better from one of the top brands of carbs.
Hello. Any questions about what gearbox your car has installed?
It’s an early cast iron case A833 OD.
Thanks for the content. Subscribed and liked
Awesome, thank you!
I have a slant 6 1973 duster I used the transdapt kit . Can you show us how it bolted up to the k frame ?
73 and newer use a completely different type of mount. Make sure that the adapter kit you have is for the 73 and up.
Heyy can i get you instagram? Im restoring a 318 out of 68 dodge monaco i need some help
You can find me on Instagram by the same title.
El motor 318 equipaba aquí en Argentina a la coupe DODGE GTX los primeros motores eran mexicanos de 212hp Después eran de Canadá con 230hp y los últimos eran traídos del Brasil Saludos desde Argentina
Just got a case of CitriStrip in the mail last week...can't wait to try it this week!
I’ve been using it on the engine bay on the 74 Duster. It’s messy and took a couple applications but works well. Also, did I say it’s messy? Lol
That was fantastic. All the facts; straight forward presentation style; great sound and lighting; no annoying over dubbed music. My only suggestion would be to fill the frame with the essentials eg zoom in so that you and the portion of the table with the bits and pieces on it fill the frame. You could start each segment with the wide shot, but then switch to the more close up shot so we get a better view of the items you are discussing. You present extremely well to camera, and there's no reason you won't be at 100k subscribers soon enough. All the best, and greetings from Prague, CZ
Looking for answers on how to get your car ready for paint? Check out this great step by step how-to video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mHlkypeznZvVo7Q.html
My 1988 roller 318 is quite, that motor has some clacking, maybe roller lifters not pumped up fully, I always run them 2k even with roller cam. Last summer rebuilt a 1977 chevy 454, the wipe cam lobe gods were kind to me.
I think we may be hearing the significant exhaust leak. I have the wrong (cheapest) exhaust gaskets on it as the headers are temporary. I'm going to be going with iron manifolds. The vacuum gauge is also rock solid, so I don't think there's a valvetrain issue, also have good oil pressure as well. I'll certainly check it out again before I install it in the car. Thanks for the heads up.
Great information, been looking for a complete guide
I hope it helps! Thanks for watching! Let me know if you have questions when you get to your project!
Is the 82 350 engine supposed to use the lower dipstick tube or only earlier models??????
I don't believe so. I believe it's only the earlier blocks that have the dipstick on the driver side. I'm not 100% sure what year they changed. I haven't played with that many small block Chevy's.
@@roadhardrestorations okay thanks sir I appreciate you help!!!!
Thanks very much for that, whole bunch of great information, certainly gave me a better understanding of what products to use and when. I’ll definitely use this video as a reference when I’m ready for that part on my project. Thanks again for the video!
Awesome I'm glad it will be of use to you! Let me know if you have any questions during the process!
I’m sure I will, I appreciate that!
Thanks, Jack, RI, USA
Your welcome! Thanks for watching!
Check out this video: Disposable Paint Cups from Harbor Freight Review & HOW-TO Fit Them To Your Paint Gun! kzread.info/dash/bejne/dH2pxseEfKm7mJM.html
Great reference video for the big paint job!
Glad you think so! Thanks for watching Joe!
2k is my budget, give me the best upgrades I can do for my 318 to get a little more power
Are you doing the work yourself or having a shop to do it? The labor will eat up a lot if your paying someone. Depending on your skill level, the basics are a good start. First a good tune-up, as in timing. An FBO plate inside a stock style electronic ignition distributor with the “correct for your engine” timing curve, will make a world of difference if your still at the factory specs. Next is Carb/intake, then maybe headers and exhaust. That way when you go the next level and go with a bigger cam and heads you’ll be ready for them.
@@roadhardrestorationsI would have to have someone do the work for me, I don’t have any mechanical skills, what would you estimate the labor to be for those parts?
@@dagreatne55it’s difficult to say. Labor rates vary a lot. Could be anywhere from a couple hundred to over a grand depending on what you have them do. Make sure it’s a shop that is familiar with, or better yet specializes in older vehicles
@@roadhardrestorationssounds good, thanks for the info!
dagreatne55, I have a 1987 D150 with the optional 318. It ia listed in the dealer order sheet as ELC, 4 barrel. It has the 302 swirl chamber heads. I did a lot of research and was told that the factory cast iron manifold flowed nearly as good as an aftermarket aluminum one so I kept mine but changed the electronic feedback 4 barrel for an Edelbrock 1406. Everything to do with emissions has been removed. I wen t to an aftermarket HEI ignition system and bolted on a set of factory manifolds from a 318 Magnum. The give a much better flow into my 21/4" dual exhaust system. Turbo flow mufflers with no cats. That is all I have done other than a 12" chrome air filter, and the thing absolutely screams. This would be a good start for your engine and very little money.
During your assembly video you mentioned that it does not matter what hole the piston/rod assemblies go. On an LA engine you will see a 0-5 stamp in the oil pan rail which designates what the final bore size is so the guy on the assembly line knows what piston to install in what hole. The bored and pistons were sized on a 0-5 scale. The 318 I am doing right now has four #4 pistons, two #2, one#1 and one #3. Of course if the engine has a fresh bore that would not matter.
I do remember reading about that before and have seen blocks that have the numbers scribbled on the sides. Were they still doing that in '86 I wonder? (the year of this particular engine)
Do you need to add this lower tube for a sbc 350? I've only seen them on your 327 and one another sbc 383
I'm not certain what years or displacements, but I think all of the 79 and older blocks with the tube on the driver side utilize it.
Hi how did you wire up the alternator
Main hot wire to the battery, one wire to a light on the dash(optional), one wire to +12v switched ignition that "excites" (tells it to start charging), and one wire to the main distribution panel for voltage detection so it knows what the output is. The entire car is rewired so none of the factory harness schematics apply.
No Plastigauge or bearing clearance checks ??? you got a lot of faith.
That Stanley screwdriver is from the 1990s, I have a set.
Not sure where I got that one. I still have the set of PROTO yellow handled screwdrivers that I think are from the 70's or maybe 80's. And a dozen wooden handled ones that were my grandfathers.
wow that kid is smart.
Did you have to change the oil pan to fit it in the duster?
Yes. Use the 360 pan for a car. I think all Magnum engines come with a truck pan.
Thank you! Great idea with the spring
Ive never been a fan of disposable cups. To each his own.
Why? Every shop I've worked in or been in has used pps cups.
@@aaadamt964 Because I prefer to use an aluminum cup and clean it. I don't waste money on restocking the throw-a-ways. I like the size of an aluminum cup.
They do make the larger size disposables too. Yes its a little wasteful throwing away the plastic, but I find I use far less thinner and rags just cleaning the gun and not the cup. If I had a gun cleaning machine and solvent recycler I'd probably use the metal cups more. When I painted in the shop we used both. Disposable is just faster and also convenient when mixing color and being able to set it aside until the rest of the job is ready for paint after you mixed up the color and tinted it. Lots of options out there for lots of people's preferences.
If you ever wanna pull the wheel and you don’t have a puller. Get your knees up tight under the wheel, take 2 ball peen hammers, place one head against nut and strike that hammer with the other. Wheel will pop off with a couple hits.
I've used that method in the junkyard.
I'm hoping to see the mustang run again at the track to see the difference. Good job explaining to da folks
Thank you, thank you and thank you! I'll have the Mustang at the track if I don't get the Duster running before then.
'promo sm'
Lots to know how important timing is and what a big difference having the correct timing makes, great explanation and glad it made a big difference on your Mustang!
Timing will solve or cause all sorts of problems. Thanks for watching!
What was the final solution to the steering wheel issue? I have the same problem after installing it in my Falcon, pulling the wheel upwards.
Cut down the spring, or put in a spacer the correct depth, so when you tighten the wheel there is no free play.
Hey Steven, great explanation on the different paint cups and guns, I haven’t done a lot of painting but did answer a lot of questions I had. Thanks for that!
Your welcome! I'm glad I can be of help!
Before you purchase one check the black ring for a proper fit mine is so loose on the threads it will pop off I didn’t check it now I can’t return it
Good tip! Fortunately mine fit fine, but even the genuine 3M ones are kinda flimsy and easy to cross-thread if your not paying attention.
Very helpful. Thanks1
Excellent! Your welcome!
The mustang looks great. Going to be nice. Pretty solid car.👍👍
Yes its a blessing working on rust-free cars!
Good information, thanks for sharing. The Harbor freight definitely looks like an affordable choice.👍👍 Especially for beginners like me. Have a great weekend.
Thanks! I didn't mention in the video but the materials that they made them with feel the same as the 3M version, in thickness and texture.
Looks really good all primed up and not too bad for dings, going to be a nice car. Don’t mind the videos on the different stages of body work, what primers to use and when, the epoxy primers and high builds etc, find that very helpful, keep up the great work, that cars going to be nice!
Thanks I'll start putting out some more process oriented videos on bodywork.
Cool! Look forward to that! Have a great week!
She's looking good ! Pretty solid car! Now onto the body work phase. It's alot of work but it'll be all worth it when it's done
Absolutely! One panel at a time!
Mustangs & Dusters you can't do anything wrong👍👍👍👍
Oh I'm fairly certain I can! lol 😂
Great instructions. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
That folding rear seat makes me wonder if that’s a Hang 10.
That would be cool if it was a hang-10! But unfortunately, it's not. The fold-down rear seat was a pretty common option in '74. I'm not certain, but I think it was called the "Space Duster" for the additional cargo space.
Nice work Steve. Have a great day.
Thank you! I'm going to start putting it back together here in a few weeks and will be doing a video on that for a final Part 3.
Nice job.👍 I have to do this on my '74 Duster. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! Let me know if you have any questions!
not painting the lip on the base of the air cleaner? Painted top came up better than I thought it would
The base is dented, and a bit beat up. Didn't think it was worth messing with at this time. Thanks for watching!
Nice job, they do look good with the stock air cleaners, just new to your channel and appreciate all the great tips and product and tool reviews. I’m just in the middle of a 73 Dart Sport build and really enjoy your Duster videos, they’ve helped me a lot! Have a great week!
Thank you! I hope to get back to making videos with the Duster soon!
Good tip! Never thought of that one!
I actually learned that trick from an old bodyman I used to work with a long time ago. Happy to pass along the idea!
I just went to do a "Quick" mild cam & 4-bbl swap on an original 88K-mile, '76-vintage 318 in my very clean Valiant sedan...yeah, ended up remanufacturing it. The factory machining was absolute trash. The decks sloped backwards to the point that flattening out the decks made the replacement KB pistons "Pop-ups" with over 10.0-1 CR. Had to get 0.060 Cometic head gaskets to lower the CR to 9.45-1. Used a '70 340 forged crank, I-beam rods along with the new pistons- so the counter weights were shaved for the new, lighter weight rotating mass. Had to align-hone the mains, the rear cylinder/piston/rod/crank line was off over 2 degrees. For heads? Used a pair of 308 heads off a '90 van, just cleaned up slightly, port matched, new guides, new exhaust valves, multi-angle vale job, new springs & viton seals. King Machine here in NC does fantastic work- they do a lot of work for some known names Running a junkyard-sourced Edelbrock Performer RPM, re-done TQ (Mr. Clifton at Raleigh Carb), a pair of TBC FlowTech headers I've had for years (never used), 2.5" dual exhaust with an X-crossover & NIB ancient Dyno Max 'turbo mufflers' from about '88. I did have the stock distributor done by Advanced Distributor; re-man'd , better hardware/pieces, re-curved the advance, new vacuum pot adjusted for the engine. The "Cheap" 318 got out of hand quick!
This was supposed to be a "quick" one too. Fortunately I was able to put it back together with minimal investment.
I will say that, in the end, the engine is impressive.@roadhardrestorations