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  @Hanzo.Azmodan2 күн бұрын

  Please put me down for one. I have a Kitwood Hill Models On30 turntable I have been wanting to "automate" and this is just what I am looking for! Well done both of you!

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  @Sandlingjunction8 күн бұрын

  so much appreciated chum, cheers Paul

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  @toucan2219 күн бұрын

  Me too, or if you get it into production Tell us all what we need to build something Like this ✔✔😃😃

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  @bobfuller10 күн бұрын

  If the brick dimensions are 3 x 1 x 1.5 mm (L x H x W), and a Queen Closer is a "brick cut lengthways down the middle" does that mean the Queen Closer is drawn 0.75 mm wide? And do you make any provision for the total mortar depth in a complete wall (i.e. What width line do you use to draw the bricks?)?

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  @bobfuller10 күн бұрын

  Just realised the line width drawn doesn't matter in this instance because it is dependent on the minium laser beam width??

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  @BexhillWest9 күн бұрын

  Hi Bob, yes, that's correct 0.75mm for the queen closer width. And again, yes, the width of the mortar line is determined by the kerf or width of the laser beam. I've found the kerf width of the 60W setting to be ideal for brickwork. Thanks for watching, James

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  @1BCamden10 күн бұрын

  Truly great episode, thanks James

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  @BexhillWest9 күн бұрын

  Thank you so much, I'm glad you enjoyed it. :)

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  @Cookie2k11 күн бұрын

  Wow…just wow! I love your style of production! Im a previous customer of yours…the ballast tool. Laser cutting my own buildings is something that very much interests me. Im inspired!

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  @1BCamden12 күн бұрын

  Wow James, that’s done it, laser cutter for me, I’m a convert. In comparison, assumed weights for your model, against the likes of styrene for example, how does it stack up ? Thanks so much, best regards

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  @BexhillWest9 күн бұрын

  Hi, in this case I'm using MDF which is heavier, but not massively so. All the best, James

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  @darz313 күн бұрын

  Fascinating

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  @michaelbrian21913 күн бұрын

  Is the vice an Eclipse Instrument Vice?

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  @BexhillWest13 күн бұрын

  Yes it is, it's an excellent tool.

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  @dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam826713 күн бұрын

  That kit you are building looks fantastic

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  @BexhillWest13 күн бұрын

  Thank you so much. :D

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  @stevenpotter381213 күн бұрын

  Another Masterclass , Excellent James.

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  @BexhillWest13 күн бұрын

  Thank you Steven, that's very kind.

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  @user-fn1bh3qr6m13 күн бұрын

  What a great interesting video. So you teach…. That explains your calm informative presentation, which even I can get to grips with what’s going on. The students of your day job are lucky to have you. I do have a question, I’m probably wrong, but it wasn’t mentioned; if you have an inner and overlaid outer wall the outside one has to have slightly longer dimensions?….. it can’t be the same length can it? Can’t wait for the next one, I don’t watch every episode, only those that take my interest, but I am a subscriber.

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  @BexhillWest13 күн бұрын

  Thank you, and yes the outer panels are slightly larger than the inner ones. I'll cover how I go about sizing them in the next video as it's not a straightforward as it might appear as the 1mm MDF varies in thickness from about 0.8 - 1.2mm. I have to check each sheet before cutting to get the brick bonding to match up properly. As for my students, they are quite ambivalent to my teaching most would far prefer to have someone else teaching them I'm sure. :D Thanks for watchning, James

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  @paulhayton342314 күн бұрын

  And as always, very informative.

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  @BexhillWest13 күн бұрын

  Thank you so much.

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  @Marcuj1014 күн бұрын

  Nice video - any news on the turntable control system ?

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  @BexhillWest13 күн бұрын

  Nothing to report just yet I'm afraid. I'll keep you posted though when there is some news. Thanks for watching, James

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  @Marcuj1012 күн бұрын

  @@BexhillWest Many thanks - do please keep me posted.

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  @tomo961314 күн бұрын

  Very good piece of work well done. Have you ever thought of printing the floor on photo card? Scaling a buildings features from a set distance I think it would be unlikely that the parquet flooring butt joints would show. Just a thought.

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  @BexhillWest13 күн бұрын

  That's a great idea, and yes the joints in the flooring are quite obvious. However, when finished with several coats of Johnsons Klear and viewed through a cracked-open door the texture looks quite convincing. I suspect I'll be the only one who notices though. I experimented with different flooring styles in each of the three blocks of this build, and managed to cut one of them back to front. Rather than re-doing it, I fitted it upside down so the floorboards face the ground - don't tell anyone though. I'll use your photo card suggestion to effect a repair. :D Thanks for watching, James

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  @rodericfindlay414714 күн бұрын

  Very nice job.

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  @BexhillWest13 күн бұрын

  Thank you, I'm pleased you like it. I'm looking forward to sharing the final product. Thanks for watching, James

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  @meltonpieman95914 күн бұрын

  Hi James, absolutely fabulous design and execution! I have used a CO2 laser in the past but have just bought a Falcon2 22w and have started with etching paved platforms and edge stones. Also worked on stone platform walls - etched from a photograph of rough stonework. I am fairly happy with those but was considering the approach to the station building and goods shed - you have given me the answer! Thanks!!! Someone else has asked about how you mitre the corners, I am also interested in the technique. I had intended to cut the last 0.5mm of each mortar joint right through the out board thus showing the joint on the return face. The worked when I used the CO2. Anyway, I am looking forward to you next video!

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  @BexhillWest14 күн бұрын

  Hi, thanks for your interest, and kind comment. I form the mitres by hand-sanding on a block - full details next time. I too cut the mortar joints at reveals around windows etc and it makes a big difference to the realism of the model. I generally cut .25mm. Again I'll show this in part 2. With regard to stone, I've been experimenting a lot with recreating this recently and I have to say I prefer Co2 lasers over diodes for this task, as the Co2 laser will achieve variable depth using the greyscale option in Lightburn, whereas a diode laser doesn't. That said, I think the Falcon2 is an excellent machine - I like stuff which just works. Thanks for watching, James

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  @DeStoreholmskeBaner14 күн бұрын

  Did you know that Lightburn has a feature to do the gaps for keeping the large pieces attached to the “spruce”?

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  @BexhillWest14 күн бұрын

  That's right, it does. However I have become used to placing them manually as the control software of the machine I've been using at work for years does not have the feature. It's a good tip though, thanks for mentioning it. James

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  @AllensTrains14 күн бұрын

  Hi James. There hasn't been a video from Bexhill West for a while and I am glad that you are uploading again! This is an interesting video going over all the salient things to watch out for when designing a laser-cut kit! A long while ago I was at Robertsbridge and I met two men who were researching station buildings for Hornby. I suggested they do Battle. They said the had been there but it was too large! They settled on Frant, and didn't do Robertsbridge station, but they did Robertsbridge signal box. Any station building made true to scale in OO is likely to be too large to go on most people's layouts. Therefore I think you should consider doing a kit in TT:120 scale. How about Warrior Square? You would have plenty of time to take photographs and measurements, and you can always go back and take a look! Thanks for uploading.

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  @BexhillWest14 күн бұрын

  Theoretically, once the CAD work has been done, the parts could be cut to any scale, although allowances would have to be made for material thickness. As it happens, I have drawn some bits of Warrior Square station, as I've long thought the station would make a nice model. It's on my (long) list of interesting projects to have a go at one day - along with the original SER Hastings station and the shed at West St. Leonards. I could do with some more spare time. :D Thanks for watching, James

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  @user-vg2uu3ip8m14 күн бұрын

  Hi James, a highly detailed and impressive building that I know very well as I live not far from Evesham and work in an around the town. The reference material that you used to produce this, does it show the LMS station, which was situated to the side, on different lines? Evesham was, and still is, a GWR station, but the LMS line from Tewkesbury to Stratford I think, used to connect at Evesham. I was born and still live in Eckington which is on the LMS line from Cheltenham to Birmingham. I would like to model that very station but I'm finding it hard to find any plans or drawings. One book I did find it mentioned in showed a few different pictures to the one's that I had already seen, although the description and dates mentioned were incorrect. It said that the station closed in 1950 something, but I was born in 1960 and clearly remember catching a train from there and indeed the goods yard was mine and my brothers play area, the shunter driver used to let us get in the cab and he would take us onto the mainline were we would jump off at the closed crossing gates, closed by my friends dad who was the signal man, and run back though the allotments back into the sidings awaiting another go, very happy memories of a sadly missed bygone age. Anyway I digress, keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing the next instalment, and like another commenter mentioned, are you going to make this item available to purchase?, Lawrence

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  @BexhillWest14 күн бұрын

  Hi Lawrence, Yes this is the old Midland station building which I think is lovely piece of architecture. I don't know of the station at Eckington, and can't recall reading about it in any of my reference books, but I will have a look. Does the station building still exist or has it sadly been demolished. It is fascinating to read your happy memories - oh how times have changed. You and your brother must have had such fun. How nice to that the shunter driver would indulge you both. :) Good luck with your model, feel free to email me if you think I can be of any help. [email protected] As for making my kit available, I hadn't planned to, but a limited run could be doable. I'll give it some thought. Thanks for watching, James

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  @user-vg2uu3ip8m14 күн бұрын

  @BexhillWest Hi James, no, nothing is left of the old station or building, just fading memories, I'm afraid to say. The architecture around the late 1800's, early 1900s, was far more intricate and interesting than what we produce today, sorry to have to say that with you being a brick layers lecturer!!

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  @BexhillWest13 күн бұрын

  @@user-vg2uu3ip8m I couldn't agree more, even mundane subjects such as brick gate piers all seemed to have an elegance derived from sympathetic use and knowledge of the materials. So sad when such things are no more.

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  @peterlefley633914 күн бұрын

  Hi James. Please could you tell us what 2D software you use for drawing your buildings? Thank you.

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  @BexhillWest14 күн бұрын

  Hi Peter, In the video I am using a piece of software called '2d Design' by Techsoft, which is popular in schools. I like it very much. However, I regularly use a variety of different pieces of software and can highly recommend FreeCAD as a no-cost alternative. All the best, James

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  @patrickpeake393513 күн бұрын

  Great to see such lovely modelling. Your tips on using two layers to get inside and outside detail is very clever. Also using another layer to do the different coloured panelling. You’ve given me much to think about. Thanks for sharing.

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  @davidorf392114 күн бұрын

  Hi James, it's all well and good telling people to mitre the corners but not telling them how you do so is a bit of a bugger, I would imagine you sand them down maybe with a disk sander rather than trying to saw them in a mitre box ?

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  @BexhillWest14 күн бұрын

  Hi David, I will cover how I form the mitres when I complete the model in part 2. But in short, I use an emery board and a 'shooting block' which is simply a block of timber with a bevel. I hold the part and the block in a vice and form the mitre by hand. I'm not a fan of disc sanders for this task and much prefer a belt for work like this as they give a consistent 'grit-speed' across their width, which makes it easier to keep the edge square. However, as I say in this case I did them by hand which takes no time at all as the material is only 1mm thick. Thanks for watching, James

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  @davidorf39212 күн бұрын

  @@BexhillWest Hi James, I remember you talking about doing your own etched brass, something I came across the other day was the suggestion that you can paint the mask with an etch resistant paint and laser off the paint rather than using a photo etch technique worth experimenting with ?

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  @wamgoc14 күн бұрын

  Very enjoyable video James! Love to get hold of one of these kits to build! Any plans to make them available? Thanks!👏👏👏

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  @BexhillWest14 күн бұрын

  Thanks! :D I'd no plans to make these available, but as there has been some interest I shall think about maybe doing a limited run. I'll post an update if I decide to do so when part 2 comes out. As always, thanks for watching, James

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  @krazytroutcatcher14 күн бұрын

  This has to be the most superbly detailed laser cut model I’ve seen to date. I like how you tackled the issue of those castellated joints, it’s one major issue I have with kits, and I do find them disturbing, so I do walk away from those models. I have wondered if laser cutter manufacturers could incorporate a pivoting laser head to cut mitred angles as part of the process.

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  @davidorf392114 күн бұрын

  Some high end metal cutting lasers do actually have pivoting heads, alternatively you can actually pivot the cutting surface under the laser using devices normally intended for engraving curved surfaces

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  @BexhillWest14 күн бұрын

  Thank you for your compliment. This is one of my more simple models really. But it does incorporate some useful design thinking which I hope others find thought provoking. Thank you for watching, James

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  @klaymann88816 күн бұрын

  Lots of great info and learning alot , thanks mate 👍

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  @BexhillWest13 күн бұрын

  Thank you so much, glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching, James

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  @markwilliams508918 күн бұрын

  Hi James Do you produce the butonone cement stand for sale. As I am sick off knocking mine over. Cheers, Mark.

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  @danielheenan211225 күн бұрын

  I'd definitely have one if became available, brilliant bit of kit 😊

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  @jeanmcginlay236325 күн бұрын

  Ingenious and a lot quieter than most. It might be an idea to have separate versions available ie a basic model and one "all singing and dancing"? Some of the features may never be used on many layouts; whether this is possible by separate parts being available or not would obviously be dependent on whether that is possible.

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  @michaelbrian21926 күн бұрын

  Beautiful workmanship, expert soldering, superb.

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  @BexhillWest13 күн бұрын

  Thank you very much! That's kind of you to say. Thanks for watching, James

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  @richarddellaquila639528 күн бұрын

  Hello. Simply brilliant! Exactly what I've been seeking for years. Is there a kit available yet for purchase? Thank you. Rick D.

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  @mussersail29 күн бұрын

  Excellent and enjoyable video. Thanks for posting. I’m across the Atlantic, so different prototypes, but similar techniques and tools.

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  @wot3424Ай бұрын

  Please advise the price of the HO scale complete system that includes the cleaned-up Ballast holding jar. Is Mpeterll a distributor in the States for you and if there are any other distributors kindly advise. I will have approximately 300 ft. to ballast. Thanks for providing a wonderful product to enhance model railroading. l will have approximately 300 ft. to ballast. Thanks for providing a wonderful product to enhance model railroading. Best, Wiley T

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  @jimjasper9851Ай бұрын

  I thought I had seen something like this sometime ago, look forward to seeing the STL files🇦🇺🦘👍🏻

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  @georgeyboyhowe1685Ай бұрын

  shipping 167 pounds lmfao lost my sale

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  @georgeyboyhowe1685Ай бұрын

  100 quid for a resin printer thats nothing my mk4 prusa cannot print that small with the same quality

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  @daniellaforet5398Ай бұрын

  Très intéressant, j’ai construits un assez grand nombre de kit laiton, quelque soit le pays la technique est la même (c’est normal!) Pour la soudure ”métal blanc” sur laiton, j’étame le laiton, puis je soude à basse température avec des soudure pour figurine. Compliments pour votre travail et vs vidéos Daniel (un frenchie!)

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  @BexhillWest13 күн бұрын

  Merci Daniel, je suis heureux que vous ayez apprécié la vidéo. J’aime énormément ce genre de travail. Mes meilleurs vœux, James

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  @peterlansdown7530Ай бұрын

  Hi James that alignment aid tool you show in this video, will you be selling this on web shop or sell the file so we can make our own tool? many thanks Pete.

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  @raymondjackson6069Ай бұрын

  It's really nice, but two things. One, it looks expensive, and or time consuming. We have adapted to servo control because it is "cheap". Two, when you have scores, or in some cases hundreds of turnouts, you have a ton of wires running through your layout. One way I mitigate that is using controller boards like the "Jack Wabbit", DigiTrax DS74, etc, that are addressed from the track bus. Still, it is a mitigation and not solution. Ideally, we can come up with turnouts that tie directly into the track bus, without any mediators. A servo with it's own "mini" decoder, that would tie directly to the local bus would be perfect. It would save the wire bulk that clutters up modern layouts, as well as add to their complexity.

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  @errolwoodhouse6605Ай бұрын

  Brilliant! Clever

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  @SandlingjunctionАй бұрын

  really enjoying this subject James and learning from you for my own falcon 2 pro, cheers Paul

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  @north584Ай бұрын

  Would you say this is a better alternative to a co2 laser with the same wattage. I have a 30watt but I’m finding it expensive to run and maintain and I’m looking for an alternative option to cut if laser buildings? Thanks

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  @TooManyHobbies58Ай бұрын

  When you moved the fan panel to the right side, was the cable long enough for the move or did you need to lenghten the cable. My Falcon2 Pro 40w does not seem to have a long enough cable to make that change.

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  @BexhillWestАй бұрын

  Great question. The cable was long enough. There is an additional socket on the RHS frame in an identical position to the one on the LHS which I assume you are using. You can swap the wire over to there and it will work just fine. Best, James

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  @hanssterckx566819 күн бұрын

  @@BexhillWest I also have the 60w now for a few weeks. And like you I also wanted to swap the fan to the other side, because it was more convenient. But I noticed that when I did that, the laser could bump in to it. And on the original side it couldn't. This is why I kept it on the original side, and just bought a longer hose. But I never tested that while cutting... Have you had any collisions yet?

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  @philmarsden8932Ай бұрын

  That was really interesting, I have laser envy 🙂 as I only have a 20W Sculpfun. I'd be interested to see the results of a ramp test on the kerf to see if the optimal focus height is different from the factory recommendation and if the kerf reduced, not that kerf matters when you're cutting, as you said just take it into account at design stage. The only place it will probably matter will be engraving images, I'd imagine you would get better results on your bricks using 60W with the added benefit of much faster engrave times.

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  @davidorf3921Ай бұрын

  Hi James It might be possible to cut other metals, you need to do a couple of things, firstly uprate the air compressor to one that can give you a steady 40psi (or there abouts) with at least two inline moisture traps or you will fog up the laser lens, next you want to cut with a single pass to reduce heat buildup in the sheet which will of course cause warping, finally pre pierce a starting hole before cutting the profile a 2 second hole before starting the path should be enough, the higher pressure air should blast the slag off the metal giving you a much cleaner cut. In theory Stainless steel should cut the easiest but with its reflective surface it might not cut as well as regular steel ( a black paint finish may help) then brass, aluminium and finally copper run laser at full power with slowest speed possible.

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  @FougarouBeАй бұрын

  Hi again. :) I forgot something. The kerf is usually different between horizontal and vertical cuts. In my tiny designs I had to take that into account because my horizontal kerf is slightly wider. For example, using simple printing paper (80g/m2), in order to cut the framing for some windows and obtain wooden parts equally wide (mullion, transom, ... sorry, English is my 3rd language and I don't know those names but I mean the wood forming the grid between glas parts in a real window), I had to use an offset of 0.0375 mm but only horizontally. Since, it's impossible to set in the software, I reduced all cuttings by this amount vertically. A drawing would be a lot easier than words to explain this, sorry. But basically, if you imagine I have a squared window formed by 9 squares of glas parts (for some projects those squares have sides of only 0.8 mm), all distanced from each other by 0.125 mm (less is quite hard without simply burning the paper), I needed to increase this distance to 0.2 mm each square of the 3 vertical stacks of 3 squares. For the outer cuts, most of the times, this difference is not significant enough to be noticed because all the "laminated up" parts are in fact all "wrong in the same direction" and they finally fit together. I hope that what I wrote makes any sense. :D Cheers ! :)

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  @FougarouBeАй бұрын

  Hello ! :) Nice video. But I think there is one thing you did not go into. Probably because your machine is reliable enough and you did not need to. The vibrations when cutting at higher speed. I got a 5W cutter and then, after getting it physically broken and dealing with a really awful customer support, I decided to buy the 10W of the same brand (I know, it might sound stupid as the dealer is the same unique one for whole Europe, but I did). And I was quite disappointed because (it got as well broken during delivey but that's not the main point), not only the kerf was wider (on the contrary of what they claim on their ad; I had 0.08 mm with the 5W), but, more important, I was expecting to be able to cut faster (I am building the same kind of things as you do for model trains but in scales N (1/160), Z ( 1/220) and HN (1/320) and engraving thousands of bricks takes a huge time) but in fact I could not at all because increasing the speed was simply making the laserhead wobble and the results were disastrous. I finally never used the 10W and sticked to the 5W. The 2 models are in fact totally identical, except the laserhead itself and the lid. I think that because the 10W laserhead is heavier than the 5W one, the problem is that the mechanics is not strong enough to move it precisely. I did not see the link you said you would leave to a video to measure the kerf. I am mentioning it because I watched some of videos that are quite wrong in their methodology in measuring the kerf. Regarding cutting brass, I am surprised you tried because my dealer told me that any shiny surface would damage the optic. Ha, if I might take advantage of the opportunity, could you please tell us where you find the materials you use (this laser grade MDF and stencil card)? I use "wood-carton" (wooden cardboard?) but it's not as rigid as your materials as I can judge from your video. I am in Belgium and I can't find 0.5 mm MDF (if it ever exists) or something similar. Your stencil card seems to be nice. If I see the product you actually use, I can probably find the equivalent here (I could not find any within the 3 hours I was searching now) . It's not always easy with the way how materials names are translated and it's sometimes confusing. And by the way, I like how you designed your windows and wall to make them look nice from all sides ! :) Thank you and kind regards ! :)

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  @calvinstreeting1173Ай бұрын

  avid follower of you 3d printing (as been printing for a while now my self)... and now your laser cutting (just bought one of thoose) :) can i ask what thickness MDF, and stencil board?

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  @davidorf3921Ай бұрын

  Hi James The reason (which I am sure you know) that Brass (Aluminium and copper as well) will not cut but steel will is down to the heat transfer properties of the materials Steel is about 10 times worse at transfering the heat away from the cutting area

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  @1-Nice-GuyАй бұрын

  Great job on the video! I'm very impressed with the rather small kerf you calculated for this very powerful laser at all 3 settings. I would love to see you run some tests on 6mm (1/4") wood. I think you would want to cut with the 20W settings vs. the 40W or 60W if you're working on fine detailed projects like earrings, you would want the smaller kerf. Keep up the great job!