Hard is just a belief!
Disprove it with patience and practice!
If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me: hardiseasy.com
Because that makes a big difference and is the main reason I do this project!
Deep Thanks!
Ben
Пікірлер
Why does the cross eyed chick laugh every time she talks?
Shouldn't the simplified / average force from whip formula be F = ( mg ) * [ ( h + d ) / ( d ) ] ? Or F = ( mg ) * [ ( h / d ) + 1 ] Starting from energy balance, total work done by gravity is ( mg ) * ( h + d ), which must equal work done by belayer F * d, because gravity still does work during the second portion. Dividing by d gives what i have above. Obviously, the peak force will be higher than this, but this will be closer than just dividing by d.
I made a comment before finishing the video like: "Why don't they just..." and exactly described their solution. 🤣 Although, I think it would be better if they completely replaced the sheeth with the cut-resistant material (so it's thicker) The downside would be that it would be harder to discern if it's damaged or not.
What is consistently called "stiffness" seems like it should be "brittleness". Stiffness = gradient of the stress/strain graph = Young's modulus. Brittleness(/ductile): low(high) plastic deformation before fracture.
13:40 in germany we say KERBSCHLAGSEILSCHNEIDEVERSUCH
@12:30 you measured the rope in a dynamic situation with a falling weight. The question is how much energy are you testing at . The energy in the mass pulling on the rope = m.v ^2 ( m = mass , v= velocity ). The longer the weight falls the more energy and momentum the mass imparts on the rope. There is no standard because it really depends on the distance the weight has to accelerate.
Roapy McRoapyface
Fascinating ! In stage hand rigging a standard term is a 'D - D ratio' steel slings rigged over I-beams are always padded with carpet. The carpet is effective in increasing the diameter (of the edge) to the diameter of the rope. The worn biner tests made me think that I am surprised carabiner have not been evolved to have a thicker or larger diameter in the saddle portion ?
The best placed, most valueable advertisement in the history of the climbing industry. I'll buy such rope, for sure.
Hi! First of all, I just love what and how you are doing!! Second, sorry for my english:) I have a question and I realy realy hope that I wuld get an answer. I started climbing with my wife and safty is criticaly important for me. I want to have one universal device and here is my problem. We loved how classic tubers works but they are not fully safe, then we got grigri BUT it has low versitality in future. So my guess its that the sweet spot is Ederlid Jul wicht is assisted but its a tuber. So.. my main question is: culd you finde some time and test Ederlid Mega Jul II? Its a increrible versital assisted tuber that you can use in many scenarios like double rope wich grigri can't do. It wuld be enough yo know is that any difrents in how it works compare to Jul II that you tested, because its looks very similar (just have 2 holes). Thats all, i realy hope that I culd get any answer:D
Great video, you go into the important details and highlight the difference between static and dynamic belay, without useless blabla, often seen in other YT channels.
Havent watched the overall vid through yet, but the naive approach seems like youd eant to have something strong that has slack? You could set a limit on how much slack based on the weight / force limits on how much fall there is before it hits the hard limit
In my life I've observed there are 2 types of rope users. Mariners and Mountaineers. Mariners will always have a knife to cut away ropes he may get tangled in before drowning and a mountaineer doesn't want anything sharp around to cut his rope/lifeline. ~boB
10:14 they couldn't give you 🧤
Thanks!
Excellent thorough video, with only the dyslexic mispronunciation of "Eder-lid" repeated, for viewer amusement. Know a climber who survived very near severing of a rope, in a barely factor 1 penduluming fall across a rough granite bulge, where he was left hanging from just two of the core bundles. No acute edges, just rock texture under the loaded rope, shredded the sheath and nearly all the core. Sliding the rope along any rough grit under tension is a recipe for disaster; double rope techniques might provide more insurance, where the second rope doesn't get the initial wear, and could be weighted in a different section of the climb where the abrasion isn't a factor. Awareness of how and when such rapid abrasion can occur ultimately is the most critical factor. It is easy to imagine edge situations like the tests here, where climbers are just not thinking about such potential for rope failure, especially in trad cragging and alpine settings. Placing protection with an eye to keeping a running rope away from such edges could be as important as just placing solid gear, if not more so. Taking a clear 30-foot fall might be far safer than a 10 foot fall over an edge.
26:32 Brains in action! What an amazing video! Go Mammut!
1964 - 2024 is 60 years not 80! I was born in 1964
did that guy survive the fall?????
100% wouldnt be buying that garbage anymore
I'm no expert, but I belonged to a climbing gym for a while. I seem to remember that the #1 rule is that you NEVER let go of the tail end of the rope on-belay. Never. You don't allow any slack in it either, and you hold it in such a manner that you can immediatly lock your belay device using downward pressure. Am I missing something here? Are there climbers who think Grigris are fool-proof hands free belay devices? Are they marketed as such? If so, that's terrifying
What about falling on slabs? Also isn't it batter to belay this way to produce soft catches? Have a little (max 1 arm) of slack + jump (right timing) and at the same time tube slide
Is some of the energy in cutting over an edge in part due to pressure/heat building up on the fabric as it rubs the edge?
A month ago I almost died in a 6 meter fall. My partner panicked. He pressed the gri gri with both hands. I basically lost one finger and the strength in my hand. Im done climbing... choose your climbing partner carefully.
The Mammut core protect rope is just a great innovation. So it deserves the name "Eierlegende" because its another step into the direction of getting the full package.
My shool did went to a climbing center and it was sooooo fuuuunnnn. Even if I did not have a experience partner
I remember a lot of guys were climbing on Goldline back in 69/70. My first rope was a Perlon kernmantle rope in 1970.
"Slackrope"
It's pretty obvious it should be called Ropey McRopeface.
this thing .. u mean a hacksaw ...
the segway to the sponsor was so smoooth
God that girl is horrible
rope meets another rope. 'are you a rope?' he asks. other rope says ' no, i am afraid knot' .
Steve, the safety snake. Larry, the load lizard. Evan, the elevator. Industrial access.
The BEND KNEE method also works when NOT SEEING the climber for me, because I instinctively/automatically go for a jump when a sudden drag on the rope occurs. I guess this should be the case for most climbers.
This was scary and also reassuring. Thanks for the great deep dive into abrasion resistance and rope dynamics!
Thank you for your exceptionally comprehensive and professional work Ben, please keep it up!
What if the inner sheath was braided with nitinol wire?
Wrapping it in a material similar to what's used in lightweight stab-proof vests won't help?
Ropey McRopeface.
So… I lived hanging from a grigri over a decade with zero problems. Maybe stupid people just avoid dangerous sports.
Idk why watching the rope rub against that edge made me so uncomfortable
Better to have rope cost more or become unusable, definitely better than dead.
Armie Hammer- cause it’ll whip you and then drop you
Very interesting video (to an Engineer, not a Climber!). Thank you for taking the time to make it.
I knew nothing about rope other from the Hobbit that every one needs one on a journey. Very informative video .
Informative video. The best possible marketing for a rope. I would definitely pay extra for this.
1:39 Did I just watch someone die?
Right... that is the only possible outcome. Clowns think everything is so effing fragile.
I would name that rope ‘Ben,’ because it provides a sense of security, much like your videos do! 🌟
Tech-wise, what makes this rope different than Mammut protect? Seems similar