Thanks for stopping by my channel. I post random videos here, mostly related to different DIY projects I'm working on around the house or garage. I try to address all comments posted on my videos, so if you have a question on something, please don't hesitate to ask. You can also reach me at the email address listed if you need to send me an attachment or photo, etc.
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Hey, reaching out on a limb here having a serious issue with my truck. I noticed it was idling rough and at a low RPM like it wanted to die. I ran through some serious rain puddles the other day, and it seemed like it wanted to die on me. I'm thinking I might have sucked up some water. Trying to drive home from the lake tonight, I could not get it to rev up at all. I barely got it out of first gear; it just wanted to die, sputtering and everything. I kept feathering the gas pedal until I finally got it up to 4-5k RPMs and then burnt the clutch to get it up to speed. It seemed like after revving it and keeping it around 4k, it ran fine. It ran better after that, and I was able to get it home. Is it possible there is water in the oil or anything that would cause this? TPM sensor? Damaged electronics? Distributor? Water that I ran through was on Tuesday. I drove it 40 miles last night and it was fine. Issue was tonight driving it back from the lake 5-10 miles away.
It's possible you got the coil wet and it was shorting out and/or some water into the distributor cap. I'd remove the distributor cap and blow it out with compressed air or clean it out - same for the air gap in there on the rotor. If you got water around the coil area up on the left fender well, blow that out with compressed air also and make sure it's totally dry. If it's wet, the coil can short out down to the frame and then the motor won't wanna rev out. Unless you were fording deep water and it was clear up to your head lights or something, then I wouldn't worry too much about water in the oil or anything. If there is any water in the oil, it will typically manifest itself on the dipstick or under the oil cap as a milkshake kinda foam. Sounds to me like water shorted out some of the ignition system... let her dry out for a few days or go through w/ compressed air and help dry everything out, then see. Since the motor runs hot, it will dry out on its own, but if you get water over by the coil or up inside the cap, that will take longer. My guess would be wet coil or maybe some water splashed up and get into the distributor cap a bit.
how were the front rotors tho? I am considering using just their front for my TLX
Front rotors were 100% - top notch
@@ray5961 okay placing my order today 😂 thanks man
It’s not even vented which is a tell tale sign of a no-good rotor. And those slotted and drill on a 1 piece solid rotor is a weak design that is more than likely prone to warp and crack. Something I would never buy. The overall design is a mediocre at best, not worth looking a. Just seeing gazzilion drill holes on there is enough to convince me that the structural integrity is compromised. There’s just no surface left for the brake pads to bite on.
So the EGR pipe itself goes into the intake between cylinders 2 & 3 like on the earlier models?
I'm not quite sure what you are asking. The EGR pipe that feeds exhaust gases into the intake system bolts to the back of the upper intake plenum - inside the plenum there is a long passage way that rungs along the roof of the plenum to the front area where the throttle body bolts up - it dumps exhaust gases into the mix there and then they are drawn into the plenum and mixed with incoming air from the induction system (AFM, etc.). Is that what you are asking about? If not, let me know and I can answer more if needed.
@@ray5961 Yes, the older carb type looks like they run it directly into the intake manifold between 2 & 3
...cylinder 4 is missing at idle and trying to troubleshoot that.
@@StanKindly I don't have much experience on the older carb motors.. but could very well be yeah
@@StanKindly got ya. Try installing new spark plugs right off the bat. Also, dump some Berryman B12 fuel injector cleaner in the tank - even though it's a carb, it will still help clean out the jets. Try totally blocking off the EGR system if you can.. if it leaks it will cause the engine to die. Also missing at idle can be very symptomatic of incorrectly adjusted valves. I had a slight miss when cruising and I finally traced it to a couple of valves being out of adjustment (and only about .004" out too). I'd start with spark plugs myself - fresh plugs can really make a huge difference. Also check to make sure the coil isn't cross sparking near its mounting bracket (turn the lights off in the garage, watch under the hood where the coil is and sometimes you can see sparking). Same goes for inside the underneath part of the distributor cap (on the roof in there) carbon can build up inside the cap and cause across arcing inside the cap - you might wanna take the distributor cap off and wipe the inside with carb cleaner on a white paper towel and see if that helps (check the roof closely for signs of arcing first though.. sometimes you can see the carbon pathways.. they look like little black hairs in there). Good luck and let me know if you have any luck or further questions. Run a compression check also if possible.
There’s an exhaust pipe that goes across on the top of the transmission that looks like it’s blocking the bell housing .was that removed ?
The exhaust system was off my truck as I remember. If you are talking about the pipe involved with the AS (air suction) system, it might be in the way a little but I can't remember for sure.
What about the exhaust manifold that goes across from the transmission ? Did you have to remove that ?
Are you working on a V6 setup? On my truck it's the 22RE so there is just the exhaust manifold that runs down along the left side of the vehicle - at the time of removing my gearbox I believe all that stuff was out already.
I didn't have a chopstick but after watching this for inspiration, I jammed a dish cloth in the gap and used some scissors to lever it out from each side. But anything sturdy that can be used as a lever should do the trick too! 😁 Thanks for the video
My 1991 4Runner started shutting down on me. It happened to me 3 years ago so I recognized it as the cheap Oreillys Ignitor replacement, didn't last too long. But back then, the El Cheapo ignitor from Oreillys was only $100. Now it goes for $400!!!. And YotaShop sells it for $200, but I'm assuming it's a cheapo brand, since they don't state that it's an OEM Toyota, like most of what they sell. Good thing is that the local pick your parts had a 1990 4runner. I just hope someone hasn't taken the ignitor yet.
That's a solid brake rotor. You should opt for the vented brake rotor type. They just do a lot better in venting hot air out. Solid brake rotors tend to get super hot, and there's literally no way to dissipate high heat. Ultimately, you will have a warp rotor that'll cause all kinds of vibration and steering wheel shake. I personally don't like solid brake rotors. I just ordered a whole new set of front slotted and vented brake rotor for my crossover suv. The cross drill is more of just a cosmetic look hence why I just opted for the slotted only with ventilated disk rotor. Can't wait to test those new rotor out and see how well they perform versus the stock one that it came with the car. The stock is just not up to the task in an emergency brake. My crossover suv is about 4000 lbs heavy so it's gonna need a lot of distance to come to a complete stop. Hopefully by upgrading to the slotted type brake rotor. My vehicle will stop instantly on a dime or at least half the distance in an emergency brake situation. In extreme hot weather my stock just coast down to a full stop. A couple of times I had to swerve out to the side on the highway. Scares the shit out of me a couple times.
Hi and thank you for the videos, I’ve enjoyed them. A quick question for you… Do you have any idea where I can get an MAF for a 94 Toyota pick up? Something remanufactured is fine, I just wanted it to be within spec… I know Cardone used to sell them, but they haven’t for a few years now. And the Chinese ones I don’t know work, then CAL mini in Paloma sells them, but again not sure of how well they work. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks again for the great videos!
I bought mine at Napa Auto... any of the re-manufactured ones out there should work fine. I just did a quick search on google and this one came up at Amazon.. maybe it might work? www.amazon.com/Compatible-1990-1995-1989-1995-Replaces-22250-35050/dp/B0CFLFCYST/
@@ray5961 thank you…maybe I’ll give it a try. $98 isn’t too bad if it’s a dud.
@@ray5961 thank you again, I just ordered the MAF sensor & the rubber gasket. I think mine is siliconed on. Question: should I remove the negative battery lead to reset the ECU before starting up the engine with the new MAF, or will the ECU adjust on its own?
@@DePalma. Pull the 15A EFI fuse in the fuse box under the hood for a couple minutes, that will reset the ECU - won't hurt. Takes the car about 4-5 days to re-trim things.
@@ray5961 ok will do. Should ECU be reset before starting up with new maf?
Great video, thank you very helpful
Are you going to post a video changing out your motor mounts? Regardless, I love your videos and you've been a lifesaver for me working on my 1993 pickup. A big thank you from Santa Barbara County.
Thanks! I did end up replacing my motor mounts - I think the old ones actually might have been better haha. But there are new ones in there now.
Funny thing is, I did the same think to the MAF on my 1993 pickup. I thought I could disconnect it and I was being nosey, tinkering.
Yeah, I was shocked when I pulled it out thinking it was some type of MAF sensor only to see the guts rip out in my hands :)
I wish this was for the 3VZE. Thanks though, still an interesting video.
How long did this take you? I just got a 93 and I’m slowly collecting lce parts for it
Took me about 4 years to build my truck to how I wanted it. As far as the motor stuff and all that.. not sure, maybe 9 months or so. It's been a long never ending project lol. I had to rebuild the motor twice.
I currently have an 86 toyota pickup w/o ac or power steering. My truck is NO fun to drive in triple digit heat. And you gotta be Hurcules to steer it😢
what size tires are you running? A/C would be nice right? :)
bonjour j aimerais savoir cette machine a t elle une pane a l huile merci
No, you have to oil specific locations prior to use
Hello! I have a 1993 Toyota pickup 2wd 22re all stocked I was wondering if someone could give some directions on what could improve my throttle response When i do quick snaps or fast acceleration engine takes long to catch or response to those type of reques These are the things I have done to the engjne - complete tune up - valve adjustment -engine was rebuild 5 years ago and even before rebuilding the engine it was acting like that - when engine is warm it can idle all day long at 550 RPMs meaning no vaccum leaks Could this MSD 8222 help me with this issue? Do i need to move my timing a few degrees advance? (Rigth now is sitting to what the manual recommends) if i need to advance the timing, how many degrees? I appreciate you help/comments
are you running with or without a catalytic converter? Sometimes the issue you are describing can be caused by modifications that improve flow (such as a camshaft, removing the cat, etc.).. what happens is under sudden throttle going to WOT, the mixture goes very lean and it takes the ECU a few seconds to get back to a better air fuel ratio - I have a video which addresses a mod I did to compensate for this exact issue here kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZH1spKeogdvLnbA.htmlsi=PYgKtrvWHgDqZFV- you might also want to run some fuel injector cleaner through your tank (I like Berryman B12 fuel injector cleaner). Advancing the timing to 7 degrees from 5 can also help a little. Try to keep in mind that the 22RE isn't a super powerful motor and the factory ECU isn't designed around high performance road racing as much as smog and fuel efficiency.
@ray5961 thanks for the tips/suggestions actually I am in the works of getting a new Flowmaster series 40 and delete the catalytic converter I will take step by step to see my improvements then bump the timing to 7 degrees how you are suggesting
wicked. thanks for the quality content.
Nice looking motor! How do you keep it that clean
Thanks.. just a lot of cleaning with gasoline and making sure no dirt builds up
Do u have a good video on a egr delete? I like how detailed ur videos are and I’m needing help with an egr issue. May have other issues after finishing egr.
Thanks. I don't have any specific videos for removing the EGR system, but there are some out there. What's the EGR issue you are having?
Thank you sooooooo much! I have had this problem several times with my 1990 pickup but it seems to eventually fix itself after awhile. I'll check out your advice. Thanks again.
Hey question we have two iac valves because we have a spare motor. I got the bright idea to look at our spare before removing the one on the motor. Now upon removing the valve and inspecting the spring we found what appears to be pieces of a gasket in there. Not sure if that’s normal but it’s definitely not built up carbon. The spring appears to be in good condition. Any idea what this may be from (the gasket stuff found in the spring?)?
It's probably something which broke off some place and got into the cooling system. On mine, when I first took it apart, I found a bunch of RTV sealant stuck in there from when the previous owner(s) did some random shit. Not uncommon.. just clean it out and put it all back together basically.
When re-installing the quick connect chuck (that holds the bits) do you thread that on dry or apply grease/other lubricant to the threads?
I put a tiny bit of grease, but not much.
@@ray5961 gotcha, thanks. What kind of grease?
@@bg1617 I use this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/
Hey Ray, what kind of starter are you using? ..Toyota OEM or something else?
I'm running this one here from LCE - www.lceperformance.com/Hi-Torque-Starter-22R-RE-8-93-95-P-U-4Run-p/1080150.htm - but the specific stater they sent me is made by Denso and the part # is 280-0109.
Would you ever consider doing a video on how you installed each of these gauges?? I would love to add gauges to my 22RE but there's so little guidance out there on how to do them right.
I might be able to provide a video showing kind of the overview sure. Happy to answer any questions you have in the meantime.
@@ray5961 that'd be sick! One quick follow up: I'm considering hooking up a fuel pressure gauge via the Cold-Start injector, but you put yours just after the filter. I'd be curious to hear your thought process behind that decision
@@adamsmiddy Yeah I installed mine off the back of the the connection which comes off the fuel filter (kinda back there where the transmission bell housing is). The only logic was to tuck it back there out of the way of things. You could definitely tap off the cold-start injection stuff, it's just that the fittings there are smaller and more delicate and sometimes to remove the upper plenum it requires unhooking those. Originally I was gonna plumb it off the banjo fitting on the front of the fuel rail, but I didn't want it constantly in the way up front basically. Also, having it back there off the back side of the fuel filter makes running the wires for the sender a bit cleaner. I can't remember if I bought a fitting from Summit Racing or if I drilled and tapped the existing banjo bolt for 1/8 NPT. I wanna say I drilled my own, but I can't remember for sure. I think they sell ones already made on Summit.
Thank you for making a video. I was about to buy a different kit that required more work (probably a couple hours worth) until I saw your video after doing more research. You saved me about 20 dall hairs. 🫡
What causes high idle upon start up? I know the cold start injector is for cold weather purposes. But mine does it regardless at 60 degrees. Thanks!
The high idle stuff is controlled by the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) - I have some videos which explain it on the channel but basically engine coolant (once it heats up) causes the valve to shut down and lower the idle. If the idle stays high, check the small hoses running to and from the IAC valve (just under the throttle body) and see if both hoses are heating up. If not, there could be a coolant blockage some place in there, which is preventing normal operation.
I have a 1993 Toyota pickup.. just put new Distributor, plugs , plug wires and injectors . # 3 cly is not working meaning the plug is firing no fuel. Does the wires on 1 & 3 Ty together before they get back to ECU?
Yes, injectors 1 and 3 fire in unison and then 2 and 4 fire together; the injector wires merge in the harness under there - so the lead for 1 & 3 have a single wire running back to the ECU and same goes for 2 & 4. If you are seeing injector #1 working but not #3, then either there is an electrical connector issue @ #3 or the injector itself is stuck. Did you happen to flow test the injectors before installing them or at least hit them all w/ 12 volts to see if they were all clicking on and off?
please do a full ac rebuild video
He doesn’t have ac. I’m sure there videos out there
I'm in the process of recharging the A/C on my girlfriend's Lexus ES300, but my truck doesn't have A/C. ChrisFix has a great video on recharging A/C systems, but as far as rebuilding the one on the 1989-95 pickup, I wouldn't wish that job on anyone :) Better to just roll the windows down in my opinion.
finalllyyy he posts a vid!!!
Nothing wrong with that..but stainless steel is available at local hardware stores..if you have one in your town.
Ray Nada posts vid. I hit like. Then I watch it.
Where do you have your electric fan controller mounted at?
The electric can is just on/off via a temp switch on the top of the thermostat housing. I have a 40 amp circuit breaker in the mix also.
Why were you rebuilding your engine in the vehicle and not on an engine stand? It would seem much faster and easier access for all parts all the way around. Also a lot quicker.
Yes, pulling the motor would have been better. I just didn't have my hoist setup at the time and things went from a small project to a bigger project as time went on.
Is the W55 for the 2WD base model 89-94?
Yes, the W55 is the gearbox which came in my truck originally (and most if not all 2WD pickups)... in my case, someone had swapped in a W58 at some point.
@@ray5961thank you. I’d like to find a back up and store for the future Or should I just do a rebuild if my goes?
@@helloitsmehb Gearbox video has a nice video on rebuilding the W58 - check that out. If you can find a W58 w/ cast iron center plate, that would be a nice backup to have. They are pretty stout inside, so usually not much of a rebuild it required.
they look nice but I wouldn't use any polish on blocks ..... no abrasives.
Good point. These blocks are just the ones for moderately accurate work and/or for setup kinda work. For precision calibration stuff I have Mitutoyo Cera blocks, carbide and also I think one or two other nice quality (and almost never touched) iron sets. But yeah, I probably made them slightly less accurate with all the polishing :)
Thx for video I had same scenario and engine will have poor acceleration with chain so loose and slapping into timing chain cover
yeah, no good comes from the stretched timing chain stuff :)
Can you do a video on your gauges? Im specifically interested in how you mounted/ what you used for the gauges directly under the radio.
I used a mount similar to this one here on ebay - www.ebay.com/itm/134845428310 - although mine was metal and this one appears to be 3D printed. The person I bought my mount from no longer seemed to be selling on ebay. Under the radio are VDO gauges. I have a video on the channel which details them here kzread.info/dash/bejne/l6Spxq5qaca6m5c.htmlsi=KiBbj7q0ycwyxckh
hi sir! I've been really intrigued with your videos and was wondering what your fuel mileage is now with your truck and also if it would be possible to chat with you directly to get some help with my 22re 4runner since I really wanna get this back to good running condition
I get around 18.5 to 20 MPG around town - depending on how hard I push the truck. On long highway drives, usually it's around 24 +/- 1 MPG - If there is no wind and level ground or slightly favorable incline, I can sometimes get up into the 27-28 MPG range as long a I keep it under 85 MPH.
Do you have a rear diff lock on yours? I love everything about my 2wd 89 except for the traction. Also I think your volts on the alternator is low, mine is around 13.5 at idle. And lambda is high. I ran some refurbished injectors that were maybe 5% bigger and it ran well but eventually failed smog years later. Went thru everything and noticed a high lambda around 1.0v at idle. Swapped the old injectors back in and it went bouncing from 0.1 - 0.9v and passed smog with ease. You've been way more in depth on the 22re than me but just throwing my experience out there
I never understood why Toyota claimed hot exhaust gases are cooled at the back of the head then input into an already cooled intake (ambient temp air) equaling better gas mileage? It’s still hot air! it would actually be raising the intake air temp and then allowing for better combustion. Hot air equals better fuel economy, cold air equals better horse power. Great video though.
I believe the better gas mileage claim has mostly to do with the fact that the exhaust fumes are largely inert in nature, therefore they displace some amount of air/fuel mixture that would otherwise be burnt. My understanding is that it also helps reduce cylinder temps a bit (since there is less combustion mixture taking place). How well it all works or how much it improves gas mileage is anyone's guess.
Found one of these on the side of the street and refurbished it. How are you liking yours?
I love mine and use it every morning and several times per day to make espressos and cappuccinos. It's a very simple / manual machine and easy to understand. Boiler is small so heat up time is super fast. Steam wand is excellent - I flip it into steam mode and purge water out into a glass jar, then toggle in and out of steam mode again and steam half and half over here a lot. The entire machine is simple, basic and a dream to use. The upgrade to the 54mm portafilters really makes a huge difference. My machine likes dark roast beans mostly.
Just cleaned the lower manifold on mine. Used a pointy hardwood dowel. Worked well. I think we must be crazy.
What manual is that and where would I get it?
It's a factory Toyota wiring manual. You can find them on ebay usually. Search your model and year and "electrical manual". They usually have a silver cover.
key out, all off, measured continuity i.e. some ohms readings, between ECU's +B, or +B1, to E21 or body ground is NORMAL? or is it SHORT inside ECM? thx
Well, B+ ties into the ECU and a few other points, but basically think of it like a direct lead back to the +12 VDC on your battery. Instead of checking continuity on B+ what you really wanna do is confirm that you see 12 volts DC between B+ and the ground / chassis points when the ignition is switched to "ON". You'll see continuity across B+ because it's tied into the battery, the fuel injectors, etc. and some of those components (and the car battery itself) have copper and/or chemical pathways that meet - just like you'll see continuity across the light bulbs due to the filament inside them (unless they are LED's). What you're seeing sounds normal yeah. As long as you have +12 volts DC on B+ in the diagnostic box when the ignition key is ON, then that should be good.
@@ray5961 thanks for ur details, ur a good teacher.
@@forgetfulme1719 Thanks. Anytime!
He’s back!
lol haha still alive. Truck has a new oil pan :-)
Hey Ray how you doing? Why my engine do not drop the rpm’s when I bridge te1 and e1 ? Check engine flashes
It's hard to say, but make sure the engine is up to full operating temp for one thing (this will help ensure the IAC valve has fully closed). Also, when you do jump TE and E1 what base timing are you seeing on your timing light? It should be around 5 degrees BTDC when jumpered and then when you remove the jumper it should pop up to around 12 degrees approximately. I run mine at 7 degrees and when I pull the jumper I think it goes up to around 13 degrees or so. I run my idle at 850-900 RPM's usually.
Yeah, it doesn’t change at all Timing mark is on 12 degrees TPS is adjusted New timing chain New harmonic balancer and still the same
@@estuardoleiva5647 Sounds like you could have the camshaft off by 1 tooth perhaps. On the camshaft gear, it's 36 teeth, so each tooth is a 10 degree error. Who did the timing chain install?
My mechanic did the timing chain So you think the distributor is one tooth off ? Thankyou for your help buddy
@@estuardoleiva5647 It's easy to do accidentally if you aren't familiar w/ the 22RE and/or you don't work on them all that often. The alignment marks on the camshaft gear can be a little bit confusing at first. It is also easy to accidentally slip a link on the chain during installation (depending on how you do the job). Here's a video which shows a bit of information on alignment - kzread.info/dash/bejne/f6KElaaco7jMZ8o.html - try adjusting the distributor as far as it will go and see if you can get back to 5 degree initial timing when the Te an E1 are jumpered up.
I wish people like you would 1 day make a complete rebuild of everything (from pistons,rings, valve up), with all specs and measuring and explaining like you do
Thank you for the suggestion... perhaps when I build up my 3RZ motor I will do a video like that for the channel
Very educative, I learned so much watching this video, thank you
Thanks!