For the critics he used the second hand to show what is happening for the camera. He misspoke about the back clip. The rope is clipped in correctly.
@rileygrahek3026Ай бұрын
I think he is back clipped in the first part
@Wildcard7778 ай бұрын
I like how you use 2 hands for this 1 handed demonstration.
@ryenschimerman21278 ай бұрын
Would whip.
@rgr19510 ай бұрын
nail bite finish
@rgr19510 ай бұрын
10/10 would whip
@BlackPantherClimbing11 ай бұрын
You don't. Unless you're in limestone.
@filbertejess871111 ай бұрын
🙃 *Promo SM*
@ambrose13 Жыл бұрын
kzread.infoRmDae0niqy0
@ambrose13 Жыл бұрын
11/10
@CaptainLutra Жыл бұрын
😅
@aarongaming6961 Жыл бұрын
00000000😂💀👌🏼
@ProudPatriot1944 Жыл бұрын
I feel like you need a stronger spring, but that could just be the video
@ZerolinGD11 күн бұрын
what?
@happychop13 Жыл бұрын
I feel like it could still slip
@ZerolinGD11 күн бұрын
why would it slip?
@cruiserpatch Жыл бұрын
always impressed by ice wheelers
@juliofigueredo2846 Жыл бұрын
Excellent. Concise and simply explained! Great video.
@allenbinger3067 Жыл бұрын
That’s not a clove hitch. And that’s 100% NOT LIFE SUPPORT
@TonySpinach Жыл бұрын
Yes it’s a clove hitch
@clintonlunn758211 ай бұрын
That is definitely a clove hitch...
@TonySpinach11 ай бұрын
And yes it’s “100% LIFE SUPPORT”
@JohnnyFuentez-vh9nk Жыл бұрын
Wooooooow these land cruisers move so good in the mud and ice water so e of the best made 4 bye 4 vehicles made 💯
@richardcarey169 Жыл бұрын
never use a clove hitch here it will not self adjust under load
@andrewmason13012 жыл бұрын
You're promoting a single fail system, which doesn't meet the standards of proper climbing technique. It's always necessary to equalize and backup anchors. Under the wrong circumstances the clove hitch technique would drop the master carabiner. Please rethink the ideas you've shared.
@michaelfleder55912 жыл бұрын
Make more videos
@Mountainmoxie2 жыл бұрын
We're resurrecting this project so expect to see new videos soon.
@michaelfleder55912 жыл бұрын
Great tip, do more
@ryanv12799 ай бұрын
Not gonna happen bro
@nettewilson8532 жыл бұрын
What's with the bow tie
@Mountainmoxie2 жыл бұрын
style :)
@tomh67843 жыл бұрын
I climb trees recreationally here in Colorado... a new student of 1 year... Found this video helpful. Thanks for sharing your techniques!
@Mountainmoxie2 жыл бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@abuzarov3 жыл бұрын
I'd really like to see how it holds if one of the anchor points fails under load
@CZWhitek2 жыл бұрын
Good question, check out this video! kzread.info/dash/bejne/h4Gppc18Y83ZmKQ.html
@julesnfriends3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing, really helpful
@Mountainmoxie2 жыл бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@JohnSmith-ed1sr3 жыл бұрын
This is not redundant like a quad is.... no thanks. This is stupid. You don’t need to reinvent the wheel
@Mountainmoxie2 жыл бұрын
Different tools for different situations. If the quad works for you then keep using it.
@walkswithdog98083 жыл бұрын
Managed to replicate your clove hitch technique without slowing down the vid! I do like to experiment with knotting techniques as those that fail also tell you something about how the knot works
@ilickpeopIe3 жыл бұрын
ah yes use 2hands to tie a one hand clove hitch
@Sicnus3 жыл бұрын
Upvoted.... and omfg @ that bow tie!
@z15223 жыл бұрын
After watching the DMM videos carefully, the clove hitch variation at an equalized anchor failed, versus the one with a knot at the master point, hardly a recommendation. This appears to be a misinterpretation of some test, extrapolated out to a new, but possibly flawed, application. The most overlooked final test of anchors by DMM used two 8.5mm lead rope ties with clove hitches into separate anchors, joined at a master point (harness tie-in whatever) with a figure 8. Drop tested at Fall Factor 2, nothing failed, and only resulted in impact force of 7.6 kN, safely below the 10kN threshold for bodily injury. Once again, the lead rope is the safest tie-in, and nothing else comes close. All of these pseudo-guide's modes are not just deceptively fancy - they're almost all actually far weaker, and less safe in impact loading. Only toperoping loads may be low enough to put onto these sorts of anchor systems.
@TutiFruity71033 жыл бұрын
Nice bowtie man
@TutiFruity71033 жыл бұрын
Very informative and concise
@darrensturgess2513 жыл бұрын
Don’t use clove hitch on the anchor main point , you bust a strand and the whole thing fails, this is not good technique and really bad practice , clove hitch and slings come undone fast even faster when it loses all its circuit energy, overhand or figure of eight is the only way to fully make it redundant to one or the other, this should be a how not to video .
@patricioriquelme22803 жыл бұрын
Really good,but next time... Slow down....remember you're teaching... you're like a magician
@mattking38523 жыл бұрын
Sweet Bow Tie! One thing to keep in mind, is that that setup technically isn’t redundant. Hypothetically if one of those anchors fails, due to the slipperiness of dyneema, the clove hitch or girth hitch will slip out completely at around 4-6kN again if one of those anchors fails. Not saying you’re gonna fail a good bolt at all, but just keep the awareness up and understand all consequences.
@donaldlee6760 Жыл бұрын
I agree, a failing bolt is incredibly rare, but having the cord or sling cut due to falling rock is more likely. I don't think this system will be redundant in the case of rockfall cutting the sling.
@mountfairweather Жыл бұрын
Every party needs a pooper that's why we invited you
@ricardobecerril17833 жыл бұрын
Dude , that was great. Much thanks, keep us alive
@jez85863 жыл бұрын
I was discussing this technique while climbing this past weekend. Can you comment on the reduction in strength if the clove is not laying entirely flat on the biner? Ideally you would have the cloves dressed nicely and all laying flat, but is the strength of the dyneema significantly reduced if the sling is not laying flat i.e. standing/folded on edge within the hitch?
@Govanification4 жыл бұрын
You can tie the clove hitch inverted, clipping from underneath and you'll end up with your masterpoint carabiner gate facing away from the rock instead of towards it like the way you do it.
@pspicer7774 жыл бұрын
He is that man. Is this the guy from the Expanse?
@esgworld4 жыл бұрын
This is the best instructional segment, and most useful tip, I've seen in my 15+ years of climbing. Thank you, Brent and MM.
@poee4504 жыл бұрын
When you have to send at 5 but dinner reservations at 6
@albertocastello1704 жыл бұрын
Is this anchor redundant? If a strand of the sling gets cut then couldn`t the knot slide and make the whole system fail? Just wondering
@xavxavxavier3 жыл бұрын
Same question for me...
@Mountainmoxie2 жыл бұрын
There's been a lot of exploration of this in the 6 years since we first made this video. I'd check into some of the tests done by people like 'how not to' as they demonstrate how this anchor style can fail. Like many things in climbing there is some balancing of risks. I use this anchor a lot when multipitching, needing speed and not anticipating high loads on the anchor combined with rock fall. When I'm new routing, or working a pitch where the risks of rock fall and factor two leader falls onto the anchor are more likely then I choose a different configuration. Hope this helps.
@jessicaszekely26884 жыл бұрын
***THIS IS NOT WHAT DMM SAID AND CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS*** I think you might have misunderstood the DMM video. Yes they do say that the clove hitch will absorb some of the force as it will slip a bit, but they also said that because the clove hitch weakened the sling it broke from a factor 1 fall (which it didn't do when there was a simple overhand instead of the multiple clove hitches). 05:18 on this video - dmmclimbing.com/Knowledge/September-2013/Slings-at-Anchors "Where we have the knots [clove hitches] on the two anchor points and the central belay point the impact forces were significantly less... However, critically on the dyneema slings by placing the overhand knot [referring to the clove hitch] in the system is does weaken the sling so both on the Fall Factor 1 and the Fall Factor 2 we had the sling failing"
@collinhickmann12583 жыл бұрын
It's true that hitches and knots reduce the strength of the sling, but in the context described in this video, that's irrelevant. He talked about adding cloves to absorb force on marginal placements in an anchor. In this situation, the placements would fail at lower forces than the sling, even when the clove hitch is included. A hitch might reduce the strength of the sling from 22 kN to ~11 kN, but a perfect nut placement in solid rock will fail at 6-10 kN depending on the size, and an imperfect of marginal placement will fail at even lower forces. It's more important to reduce the forces on the weakest links in the anchor than it is to maximize the strength of the sling. Knots also reduce the strength of cordalette and rope to a similar degree, but nearly every anchor uses some sort of knot, and we tie in with a knot every time we go climbing. It's also important to remember that a factor 1 fall only causes knotted dyneema to fail when there is no dynamic material (i.e. rope) in the system. The takeaway from the DMM tests isn't to avoid knots/hitches in dyneema slings, it's to avoid using a static dyneema tether with excessive slack as your only connection to an anchor. If you use a dynamic tether to the anchor (the rope) and/or avoid excessive slack in your tether, it will be impossible to generate the forces necessary to break a knotted dyneema sling. Using a dynamic tether will absorb the energy of the fall and keep forces (relatively) low, and keeping excessive slack out of your tether will prevent you from taking a high-factor fall on your static anchor.
@HaasGrotesk2 жыл бұрын
WHat they did and this is not the same. They had 3 clove hitches on 1 line and this method has 1 clove hitch on double line. They are not comparable.
@petapote4 жыл бұрын
There is better way how to do clove hitch. In your way the carabiner lock tends to aim towards the rock. But it should be the the opposite. If you try to do it on more rigid sling, you will see it cleary.
@petapote4 жыл бұрын
Actually it can be seen in the video 1:12. It is much better if lock aims to you.
@1981stonemonkey4 жыл бұрын
Good info, will adopt. NB your knot and top rope biners were sitting on an edge. Not good. NB knots reduce dyneema breaking strength more than nylon b.s. People should be told this to make informed decisions. Anyone unfamliar with this, take a look here www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/106867877/clove-hitching-an-8mm-dyneema-sling and here kzread.info/dash/bejne/gKuWr8ihZKnXhJc.html and, directly relevant to this video (didn't see a source mentioned above), here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/iKabw8ajn5zUmbw.html
@simold134 жыл бұрын
Good video, but there's a howler here no-one seems to have noticed. The DMM video referred to does not show that clove hitches are stronger - in fact they had breakage with clove hitches in some configurations where similar set-ups with overhands did not break. Clove hitches in some cases give lower impact forces when the cord or sling is slack on one side because there is slippage. The system described in this video has tension on both sides of the hitch, so there will be no dynamic effect. kzread.info/dash/bejne/iKabw8ajn5zUmbw.html
@marknh33124 жыл бұрын
Great tutorial! Killing it with the bow tie!
@officerwebb6204 жыл бұрын
I heard you're not supposed to clip the biner directly to the chain on a bolted mount but instead you clip the biner to the mount and under the chain it's more safe ...
@Mountainmoxie2 жыл бұрын
Can't believe everything that you hear. :)
@schaef17224 жыл бұрын
Wouldn’t the figure 8 make the anchor redundant if one bolt came loose or was cut you still have one side secure. It seems that with the clove if one side came loose or cut you’d loose the whole anchor system.
Пікірлер
For the critics he used the second hand to show what is happening for the camera. He misspoke about the back clip. The rope is clipped in correctly.
I think he is back clipped in the first part
I like how you use 2 hands for this 1 handed demonstration.
Would whip.
nail bite finish
10/10 would whip
You don't. Unless you're in limestone.
🙃 *Promo SM*
kzread.infoRmDae0niqy0
11/10
😅
00000000😂💀👌🏼
I feel like you need a stronger spring, but that could just be the video
what?
I feel like it could still slip
why would it slip?
always impressed by ice wheelers
Excellent. Concise and simply explained! Great video.
That’s not a clove hitch. And that’s 100% NOT LIFE SUPPORT
Yes it’s a clove hitch
That is definitely a clove hitch...
And yes it’s “100% LIFE SUPPORT”
Wooooooow these land cruisers move so good in the mud and ice water so e of the best made 4 bye 4 vehicles made 💯
never use a clove hitch here it will not self adjust under load
You're promoting a single fail system, which doesn't meet the standards of proper climbing technique. It's always necessary to equalize and backup anchors. Under the wrong circumstances the clove hitch technique would drop the master carabiner. Please rethink the ideas you've shared.
Make more videos
We're resurrecting this project so expect to see new videos soon.
Great tip, do more
Not gonna happen bro
What's with the bow tie
style :)
I climb trees recreationally here in Colorado... a new student of 1 year... Found this video helpful. Thanks for sharing your techniques!
Glad it was helpful!
I'd really like to see how it holds if one of the anchor points fails under load
Good question, check out this video! kzread.info/dash/bejne/h4Gppc18Y83ZmKQ.html
Thanks for sharing, really helpful
Glad it was helpful!
This is not redundant like a quad is.... no thanks. This is stupid. You don’t need to reinvent the wheel
Different tools for different situations. If the quad works for you then keep using it.
Managed to replicate your clove hitch technique without slowing down the vid! I do like to experiment with knotting techniques as those that fail also tell you something about how the knot works
ah yes use 2hands to tie a one hand clove hitch
Upvoted.... and omfg @ that bow tie!
After watching the DMM videos carefully, the clove hitch variation at an equalized anchor failed, versus the one with a knot at the master point, hardly a recommendation. This appears to be a misinterpretation of some test, extrapolated out to a new, but possibly flawed, application. The most overlooked final test of anchors by DMM used two 8.5mm lead rope ties with clove hitches into separate anchors, joined at a master point (harness tie-in whatever) with a figure 8. Drop tested at Fall Factor 2, nothing failed, and only resulted in impact force of 7.6 kN, safely below the 10kN threshold for bodily injury. Once again, the lead rope is the safest tie-in, and nothing else comes close. All of these pseudo-guide's modes are not just deceptively fancy - they're almost all actually far weaker, and less safe in impact loading. Only toperoping loads may be low enough to put onto these sorts of anchor systems.
Nice bowtie man
Very informative and concise
Don’t use clove hitch on the anchor main point , you bust a strand and the whole thing fails, this is not good technique and really bad practice , clove hitch and slings come undone fast even faster when it loses all its circuit energy, overhand or figure of eight is the only way to fully make it redundant to one or the other, this should be a how not to video .
Really good,but next time... Slow down....remember you're teaching... you're like a magician
Sweet Bow Tie! One thing to keep in mind, is that that setup technically isn’t redundant. Hypothetically if one of those anchors fails, due to the slipperiness of dyneema, the clove hitch or girth hitch will slip out completely at around 4-6kN again if one of those anchors fails. Not saying you’re gonna fail a good bolt at all, but just keep the awareness up and understand all consequences.
I agree, a failing bolt is incredibly rare, but having the cord or sling cut due to falling rock is more likely. I don't think this system will be redundant in the case of rockfall cutting the sling.
Every party needs a pooper that's why we invited you
Dude , that was great. Much thanks, keep us alive
I was discussing this technique while climbing this past weekend. Can you comment on the reduction in strength if the clove is not laying entirely flat on the biner? Ideally you would have the cloves dressed nicely and all laying flat, but is the strength of the dyneema significantly reduced if the sling is not laying flat i.e. standing/folded on edge within the hitch?
You can tie the clove hitch inverted, clipping from underneath and you'll end up with your masterpoint carabiner gate facing away from the rock instead of towards it like the way you do it.
He is that man. Is this the guy from the Expanse?
This is the best instructional segment, and most useful tip, I've seen in my 15+ years of climbing. Thank you, Brent and MM.
When you have to send at 5 but dinner reservations at 6
Is this anchor redundant? If a strand of the sling gets cut then couldn`t the knot slide and make the whole system fail? Just wondering
Same question for me...
There's been a lot of exploration of this in the 6 years since we first made this video. I'd check into some of the tests done by people like 'how not to' as they demonstrate how this anchor style can fail. Like many things in climbing there is some balancing of risks. I use this anchor a lot when multipitching, needing speed and not anticipating high loads on the anchor combined with rock fall. When I'm new routing, or working a pitch where the risks of rock fall and factor two leader falls onto the anchor are more likely then I choose a different configuration. Hope this helps.
***THIS IS NOT WHAT DMM SAID AND CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS*** I think you might have misunderstood the DMM video. Yes they do say that the clove hitch will absorb some of the force as it will slip a bit, but they also said that because the clove hitch weakened the sling it broke from a factor 1 fall (which it didn't do when there was a simple overhand instead of the multiple clove hitches). 05:18 on this video - dmmclimbing.com/Knowledge/September-2013/Slings-at-Anchors "Where we have the knots [clove hitches] on the two anchor points and the central belay point the impact forces were significantly less... However, critically on the dyneema slings by placing the overhand knot [referring to the clove hitch] in the system is does weaken the sling so both on the Fall Factor 1 and the Fall Factor 2 we had the sling failing"
It's true that hitches and knots reduce the strength of the sling, but in the context described in this video, that's irrelevant. He talked about adding cloves to absorb force on marginal placements in an anchor. In this situation, the placements would fail at lower forces than the sling, even when the clove hitch is included. A hitch might reduce the strength of the sling from 22 kN to ~11 kN, but a perfect nut placement in solid rock will fail at 6-10 kN depending on the size, and an imperfect of marginal placement will fail at even lower forces. It's more important to reduce the forces on the weakest links in the anchor than it is to maximize the strength of the sling. Knots also reduce the strength of cordalette and rope to a similar degree, but nearly every anchor uses some sort of knot, and we tie in with a knot every time we go climbing. It's also important to remember that a factor 1 fall only causes knotted dyneema to fail when there is no dynamic material (i.e. rope) in the system. The takeaway from the DMM tests isn't to avoid knots/hitches in dyneema slings, it's to avoid using a static dyneema tether with excessive slack as your only connection to an anchor. If you use a dynamic tether to the anchor (the rope) and/or avoid excessive slack in your tether, it will be impossible to generate the forces necessary to break a knotted dyneema sling. Using a dynamic tether will absorb the energy of the fall and keep forces (relatively) low, and keeping excessive slack out of your tether will prevent you from taking a high-factor fall on your static anchor.
WHat they did and this is not the same. They had 3 clove hitches on 1 line and this method has 1 clove hitch on double line. They are not comparable.
There is better way how to do clove hitch. In your way the carabiner lock tends to aim towards the rock. But it should be the the opposite. If you try to do it on more rigid sling, you will see it cleary.
Actually it can be seen in the video 1:12. It is much better if lock aims to you.
Good info, will adopt. NB your knot and top rope biners were sitting on an edge. Not good. NB knots reduce dyneema breaking strength more than nylon b.s. People should be told this to make informed decisions. Anyone unfamliar with this, take a look here www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/106867877/clove-hitching-an-8mm-dyneema-sling and here kzread.info/dash/bejne/gKuWr8ihZKnXhJc.html and, directly relevant to this video (didn't see a source mentioned above), here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/iKabw8ajn5zUmbw.html
Good video, but there's a howler here no-one seems to have noticed. The DMM video referred to does not show that clove hitches are stronger - in fact they had breakage with clove hitches in some configurations where similar set-ups with overhands did not break. Clove hitches in some cases give lower impact forces when the cord or sling is slack on one side because there is slippage. The system described in this video has tension on both sides of the hitch, so there will be no dynamic effect. kzread.info/dash/bejne/iKabw8ajn5zUmbw.html
Great tutorial! Killing it with the bow tie!
I heard you're not supposed to clip the biner directly to the chain on a bolted mount but instead you clip the biner to the mount and under the chain it's more safe ...
Can't believe everything that you hear. :)
Wouldn’t the figure 8 make the anchor redundant if one bolt came loose or was cut you still have one side secure. It seems that with the clove if one side came loose or cut you’d loose the whole anchor system.