Hi, I'm Joe, thanks for joining in on my Hot Rod Adventure! As my Dad always says "It's the journey, not the destination;" the older I get the more I realize how true that is. Come along and join me as I navigate different journeys in the world of Hot Rodding. Better yet, embark on a journey of your own! Make some videos, make some memories. Let's build this community!
I'm just a dude in his garage living the American dream. Most of my videos document how I build hot rods and work on other automotive projects like my old CJ-5 and occasionally my wife's SUV, but some branch out to capture the adventures I can find chasing the hot rod dream and making memories with my family.
Пікірлер
What year is this moter ?
It’s out of a 1992 S10.
Misleading title. Should have called it: watch this jackass struggle for ten minutes (arduously drawn out over several days) and get nowhere near putting bb’s in anything except maybe his butt
So are you you not using any of the flasher that are with the kit only the three plug one? Dis tou cut the other two out?
Correct.
will it work on vw railbuggy
Yes, I believe it will.
Good job very nice work and keep up the good videos with detail for newbies like myself I hav a 30-31 sedan I can’t seem to figure out what rear coil overs I need what size do u install
Thanks 👍 I got some QA1 coil overs for the rear of my car. I got 180lb coils, and I’m pretty happy with them. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
You know, instead of going the long way around you could have just move the cut off switch to the negative side of the battery. This avoids both the problem you're trying to fix as well as not having two hot terminals on the switch. Why fool around with the positive side?
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. When I had the switch set up through the negative side, it did not shut the engine off when the master switch was turned off; and that is why I wired it this way.
Cool video
Thanks for watching!
The chamber nearest the booster is for the front brakes.
Well... I have mine set up backwards then! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Under the window garnish molding is another piece that accepts that seal for the insides of the windows
Great, thanks for the info!
Do none of the wires plug into plug connector coming out of the column
I’m not sure what wires come out of the column, so I don’t know what wires would connect there. Perhaps that is where you could get a keyed power source from.
My 64 CJ5 jeep has been sitting 10 years, and the brake pedal naturally went to the floor. I looked at the job and thought I can't even see the 2nd line, thinking it would be opposite the the one I could see. As long as that one line comes loose it's not looking so bad. Thank for the video!
Right on! Yeah, it’s not that bad of a job. Thanks for watching.
my new connector came with all white wires
Hmm… I’d definitely be very cautious about splicing it in. Or, take it back and get a different one I guess. It’s too bad there aren’t quality parts that would just make these swaps easy.
Hey guys, I just got my VIN inspection done today. Quick question, for step 2, where do I physically have to go to submit the records search? That would be DR 2489A. Appreciate the help!
Thanks for watching! I do not know where you can physically take the records search... I did mine all by mail and it was easy. You'll take the results (the form you get back from the DMV) in with your pile of paperwork when you complete the form and submit for approval.
@@BadHombreGarage thank you, i appreciate it!
What about 2 prong?
It can be done, but the quickest and easiest way I figured out how to make it work was with the 3 prong. There are some more details on how I did this on my 2 videos I made where I install the Speedway wire harness.
Sorry to see that your engine had bad cylinder I jest got one for next to nothing, I watched the first video. I found a very informative. Good job keep it up
Thanks for following along! Once I get caught up on editing you'll see more on this build project. I hope to fire it up soon!
I have the speedway harness and running into some problems. If you are available to reach out I would appreciate it.
Absolutely, I'll do my best. Email me at [email protected] and we can set something up.
Great video thanks. My fan stops when the ignition is off, my issue is air only blows in the high speed "5" 1 thru 4 stopped working, and there is uneven air distribution, air only blows from the passenger side. How do I narrow that down to the Climate Control Module or the Blower motor resistor? I live in S Florida so I only use AC. Thanks
Changing this module might fix that problem. I’m not sure why it only blows from the passenger side, that sounds like a duct issue to me. Thanks for watching.
Good instructuctional video. The worst part was adding the annoying noise overlay. Do KZread a favor and re-edit and re-upload taking out the noise. It doesn't belong in a video like this. Maybe if you're skiing down a black diamond, but it just ruins the video.
Thanks for the great feedback! I really appreciate it. This was the first youtube video that I did, and yeah it needs improvement. I'll try to edit it and see if I can make it easier to watch. Thanks for commenting and watching.
Hey Joe, very nice, Super Clean sure does work good, catch you on the next one buddy😁😁
Thanks 👍
I’m trying to use some of theses on an old farm tractor and garden tractor. On the box it shows a fuse but doesn’t say what amps, what do feel I should go with?
Good question... I'd say you can't go wrong with a 20 amp. Unless it blows it, then go bigger! To a point. Thanks for watching.
If I understand this correctly, my 1990 Dodge D150 has the regulator inside the ECM(yep called ECM in 1990) and my voltage is about 13.5. At 66yrs old I've owned a lot of cars and what was always common was about 14.4v. I just got thos old pickup so it may be a non-issue but I'm thinking if it has trouble keeping the battery up I can just add a little resistance to the signal field wire to fool the system to increace output voltage a little. I know on my Roadrunner I moved that wire from the connection on the cowl to under the dash when the headlights pull power and my dim headlights were solved. Have you done this before and know what might be a good resistance to use? Thanks, good video.
I like the way you think. I haven't done that before, but I think it could work. That said, I have no idea what resistance would work for you. I think, if that was my project, I might just pull an output from this side of the ECM (where the low voltage is) and use that to feed my signal to the alternator. All that said, I bet 13.5 volts will be good enough. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
@@BadHombreGarage Thanks for the reply. I'm going to watch and see how it does, I may be expecting an issue that never comes, I'm just trying to think ahead in case. If I change anything I'll let you know.
@@dbc105 👍
Does the texture of it attract dust. The ones i seen in home depot was so dirty and the dirt didn't wanna come off
That's a good question, I'm not sure if it attracts dust, but it sure gets dusty in my garage. But- so does everything else. It comes off easily with compressed air so I don't stress over it. Hope that helps.
I didn't like what I saw.... But that's ok. I still liked the video and now I'm leaving a comment.
Hey, I'll take it. Thanks for watching!
Have you figured out what the problem was? I'm just happy I don't have to pull the pan off now lol
Yep! This o-ring replacement fixed my low oil pressure issue.
I’m rewiring a 71 MG Midget. My big headache will be the translation from the MG wiring to the aftermarket harness especially under the dash.
Good luck! You'll figure it out.
Use some goo be gone on that sticker
I'll give it a try, thanks!
Thank you so much for a blunt review!
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
On 4.3 Chevy engine I always do 75 on main and oil pump 45 on rods and 65 on heads its worked for me I'm not saying do it but it worked for me
I hope what I did works!
Coast just as much as 8. Or more
V6 junk
I hope not. We will see.
One man’s junk is another man’s treasure.
W o t kid
What?
Expensive
W o m
A turbo 6 still bad on gas
I have v6 in the 80s. Sucked
I guess it’s a matter of comparison. Hopefully I won’t be disappointed with this one
V8 makes way more power guys don't be fooled. Many regret a 6
I agree, a v8 would be more powerful. But hopefully this v6 is enough.
Great video I get a real Red/Green vibe from it. (In a good realistic way) One day off my projects can take months, lol
Thanks! Obviously, I try to have fun with all of this. I’m in the middle of one of those months long project right now…
i can't get to where you put flex camera info..i get "top* and "new" comments that i been going thru to see if you posted camera info again. great video, seen a lot others that don't even come close to yours. i used piece of plywood with wooden blocks under it so it sat above the engine and i could stay at it as long as it would take. in the end,got my wife up in there, smaller hand and arm...plywood was what made it possible
Here's a link: a.co/d/gVx9Atq
Mine does not have the bullet deal or the teeth when i pulled it out any idea?
Sounds like someone probably removed it in a prior iteration of rebuilding that transmission.
I am an old loadmaster and yes you did a good job hahaha 97th MAS McChord AFB C-141-B.
Very cool!! I was on the Herc.
Good video, thanks for sharing. I think you beat my time by about 1.5 days!
Haha! Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment.
Okay... so, you gotta kneel next to a hoist with 500lbs hanging off it... yup, I feel comfortable.... And from the edits here I can only surmise you welded that bolt with the valve in place, thus possibly compromising the rubber o-rings.... Yup, shorten a chain (why is this a "mod"???)... cut off the safety barb - that's a no-brainer- the chain doesn't just jump out (defying the laws of gravity unless Linda Blaire is in the room). The only much better "mod" would be a swivel hook. Waste of time watching, and even stoopider of me for wasting time writing this! Oh well....
Thanks for the constructive criticism! This is why this community is so great; we can each share freely our praises and criticisms. All this helps make us better people. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment. Share this video with your friends and see if they have the same reaction!
I am installing one of these in a 1922 chevy. All of my lighting is LED 6V and everything is working except the brake lights. My question is: Should the red wire to the brake switch be carrying current? Mine is not. If the red wire should not show a voltage and the brake switch is just a path to ground through the turn signal switch , should the power be somehow supplied by the left and right turn wires. I tried this. Did not work either. I'm, frustrated..
If your wiring is set up like mine, the red brake light wire is hot and goes from the power source to the brake light switch, then to the turn signal switch.
Hello. I am the one that did the certified inspection. I think the video needs a follow up. Some things have changed and some things need to be added. I just learned of this video yesterday (6/3/24) so I watched it, good stuff bad Hombre
Thanks for the info! And, yes I remember you Ray. Let’s talk more and make sure I am getting the correct info out to help people. Send me an email at [email protected] and we can discuss. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have a salvage title car from another state that i'm trying to get done for colorado do you think it will pass if the front bumper has a crack in it? i replaced the hood and fender and headlight but the bumper is cracked but not bad
@@STREETRACEN4U Good question, and unfortunately I don't know the answer. I'm not sure what (if any) inspections are done on salvage vehicles in Colorado. I recommend you call the Colorado DMV and talk to someone on the phone about what is required. You might be on hold for a while, but I've found everyone I've talked to over the phone to be very helpful. Thanks for watching!
What side of the brake light switch did you connect to?
I can’t remember, but I don’t think it matters. If it’s like my switch it’s a simple open/closed switch.
I guess they make a clear coat also. May have to buy some to paint an old pickup someday.
That’s a good idea, I bet some clear would help that paint hold up a lot longer.
Good video Joe. The spray pattern is awsome for large flat surfaces......and yes, no overspray on the "A"...
It is good. Kind of hard to paint a horizontal flat surface though, like the inside of the trailer. Especially once the can got low on paint.
Wow Joe, that worked really well, i would use it for sure, have you ever use one of the little triggers that snap onto the top or a spray can, if your doing a lot of spraying they are really nice, your finger doesn't go numb, have a great Sunday 😁😁
Great idea, I’ll use one next time.
man, brother, im doing a cabinet right now, with r.o. variable nozzle cans (in red). maybe I should have used the turbo cans. the fan pattern is huge on that. great job Joe.
I think these would do awesome on cabinets. I just heard about those variable nozzle cans, I might have to try one out. Thanks for watching!
@@BadHombreGarage why are you awake. go back to bed....lol
@@robertf1749 bed ? Isn’t it morning there ? Lol it’s bedtime in the Land of Oz
@@robertf1749ha! Working, on East coat time. What’s your excuse?
@@BadHombreGarage my excuse is graveyard shift.
Had a go with a can ...good coverage as you say...did a good job but I also touched up the fiddly areas with a standard can...they do a paint can with 5 different nozzles in one too if you wanted to look at that!! Also those turbo cans are $36 each here in Australia... I feel violated hahaha
Wow! That’s expensive, I wouldn’t have tried them if they cost that much here!
@@BadHombreGarage Aussie Tax...we cant escape it