B & R's Northern Horse Journey
B & R's Northern Horse Journey
Join us as we explore a variety of different topics including the fascinating world of horses, riding, and all things related - and scale model trucks, mostly 1/24 and 1/25 scale with a few smaller scale models to keep it interesting.
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Nice progress and great added details. The paint is looking Great also. 🤜🤛🐭🏍💨
Where do you get rivet heads?
Tichy Train Group are the ones I use. www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/ho_nbw--rivets/Default.aspx There is a range of sizes from .020" up to .080", most of the time I use ones from .025" up to .060".
Great work on the wheels. I Subbed you for more videos. My bike is 99% done. Video coming soon. 🏭🐀
Thank you - I'll have to get my bike project into a higher gear! Oct seems a long way off however it will be here sooner than we think...
Next time we’ll have to put some music to the walk! It was nice to hear the birds though.
Great lookn wheels
Thank you! Molded in detail is well done on these kits, wasn't sure of best way to do the silver raised edges, then remembered seeing use of Sharpie markers referenced somewhere (online or in a magazine article possibly). Quite pleased with how well the Sharpie worked.
Thanks for all the wonderful info!
Such incredible detail, as always. I really appreciate your detailed explanations of everything you do. It all gets filed away for possible future reference.
Robert, These details really change the trailer's look! The brass adds some weight to the overall model. Which is not a bad thing. The corners are now, much stronger.
Great video thanks robert
WOW, Great video Rpbert! Coming together great!
Great vid 👍👍
Excellent tutorial . Great use of household tools that the average person might own. Keep the videos coming PLEASE. :)
Thank you, working on getting back "into" making some more videos. Been slow with content creation mainly due to busier than usual with non-hobby activities following recent job change. Was at Spring Thaw model car & truck show this past weekend (Chadwicks, NY just south of Utica) which always helps recharge the scale modelling batteries!
@@brsnorthernhorsejourney3579 Something to consider for your brake press, instead of a razor blade try a utility snap off blade like 'Olfa'. It is much longer . Just a thought. Mostly I am learning from you haha. ;)
@@navyf4s Great suggestion - an Olfa blade would definitely be long enough to span full length of piece for that bend. Thank you for mentioning that.
Never thought of using brass sheet for the corners. I'm eventually going to be building the trailers for Knight Rider and Smokey and the Bandit and they have these angled corners.
There was admittedly some "Goldilocks and the Three bears" involved: .016" sheet aluminum was too thick, .010" styrene strip was still a bit thick and would be hard to bend properly (separate strips could be used however that would leave two gaps still to be filled), .005" styrene is on the delicate side for solvent cement...shim brass .003" thickness was "just right'!
@@brsnorthernhorsejourney3579Superglue holds it good I guess.
@@crushingvanessa3277 It does work well, I use the medium viscosity gap filling type. Applied to 3/16" wide corner strip it has a lot of gluing surface, and doesn't creep out along edges of the brass cover piece.
Keretex hoof hardener works great! Durasole is another product we incorporate into our hoof care regimen. 👍🏻
How is durasole used? New OTTB owner - hoping to make hooves healthy & strong enough to remove shoes.
Beautiful horse.
Thank you for this video. It helped me with my concerns.
You're welcome! Happy to share what we have learned over the years - sometimes from others, sometimes from reading, and sometimes the "hard way"!
A Detroit and straight pipes, yup you’ll hear that screaming from miles away.
Especially on some of those west coast downgrades!
Incredible work! What are you using for the exhaust heat shield?
Thank you - heat shield made from Plano Model products #203, listed as "Morton - Round Pattern .008 Stainless Steel". www.planomodelproducts.com/203.html Rolled into a cylinder slightly smaller than stack diameter (brass or styrene tube works fine as a form to create the cylinder) it will "snap" into place requiring minimal use of glue to attach.
Awesome! I’m about to start an Australian R series and will use your techniques.
Great details!!
Thank you - this was a fun project, AMT's kit provides a decent foundation to work from and getting "into the weeds" with smaller details is an aspect of the hobby I find to be quite enjoyable. 1/25 does make this more feasible than smaller scales. (1/16 would be even better for adding small details although the selection of kits is very limited).
Curious how at 6:20 you are talking about the pre-73 cab (which I really appreciate the detail you put into it!), but then you talk about the four-bolt hinges, suggesting it may be aftermarket. Look again, there are seven bolts on each side there! ;-) Not trying to throw shade; simply hoping to clarify some potential ambiguity. Love your work, and I'm fixing to use ALL of your tips on my next (first) semi build, despite it being a White Western Star. Your videos have pointed out what to look for and how to fix it. Thank you!
Lookn good robert
It coming along good thank u for sharing keep on building
😂 Hieroglyphics 😅. Fact!
Brake and accelerator pedals supplied with our kits, stop my enthusiasm dead in its tracks. I have just used small straps of metal leftovers found under neath my shear....but your vid has got me thinking....real rubber pedals. I'm going to poke around in my daily life and try to come up with something interesting for my builds. Thanks for posting this vid.
Very informative. This gives me the information I need to convert the twin chambered wedge brakes on my AMT Ford C900 refuse truck over to more modern s cam brakes
Great info and video thanks
Good day Robert, There are always some good tips to be found in your how to's. The more I watch the more I learn about the small nuances and details of trucks; might even get me to have a go at building one myself. Thank you for sharing cheers, Graham
Great work. Keep modeling.
Nice extra touch and well done video.
Fantastic details Robert!
Similar to what I did before, just yours has a bit more details added.
The doors look great, Thank you for the how-to video. Im curious, what is your reasoning when you choose brass over aluminum and vice-versa? Does it matter what type of primer to use when painting them i.e. lacquer, enamel, acrylic?
For painting, I have used all three types of primer with no issues on brass and aluminum. Lacquer or enamel will likely adhere better to a large metal surface however the brass and aluminum parts on my models are typically smaller details with the majority of model being plastic. Decision to use brass or aluminum is made based on a few factors: If soldering is involved, use of brass is required. For ease of cutting and drilling, aluminum is preferred. (Brass can be cut and drilled with hand tools, it is just easier with aluminum.) Aluminum is great for any item that will be a polished or chrome finish. Truck exhaust stacks and hydraulic cylinder rams are two common applications. With a bit of Nevr-Dull or Autosol, aluminum tube can easily be given a chrome like shine.
Ty sir.
Thank u for sharing keep on building great detail
Thank u for sharing great detail keep on modeling
Thank u for sharing keep on modeling good tip on making the door handling
Cool kit. Looking forward to seeing your build.
I am gearing up to build my first truck model. I could not have come across your channel at a better time. A lot of great tips. I am familiar with tichy train and have used their products before. My question is the part numbers that you give, are they in HO Scale?
Taking a look at Tichy's online listings, it looks like majority of the bolt head castings I use have same part number for HO and O scales. As an example, #8083 is "Hex Bolt Head" representing a 6" hex head bolt in HO scale and a 4" hex head bolt in O scale. #8016, their "Standard NBW" (I use this one a lot for very small fasteners like licence plate bolts) also uses same part # in HO and O scales, it represents a 1" bolt, 1-1/2" square nut and 2" washer in HO and 1/2" bolt, 3/4" square nut and 1" washer in O scale. Rivets are sized by diameter of rivet head regardless of scale, as an example #8018 is described simply as ".025 diameter rivet head". Turnbuckles seem to be more scale specific due to size, the O scale #2024 (cored for .032" diameter wire) works well for making brake rod clevises.
More great tips and improvements us "scale truckers" can use. One final step I do when scribing or trimming on plastic is to run a small amount of liquid glue along the reworked area which smooths out the surface, and more closely matches the originality of the part.
Thank you for that tip, it does work well. Is there a specific brand of liquid cement you find works better for this? Testors seemed to give good results for me.
@@brsnorthernhorsejourney3579 Back in the day, used "Weld on" in the dk. brown glass bottle, but green cap Tamiya works well enough since not too hot. Best to load brush for one even pass and let it cure as is. Looking forward to more great videos!
Great tip on the trailer door handle. Amazingly enough, in lieu of brass plates, I have excellent luck/results using yellow tamiya masking tape as a barrier to keep from scratching/slicing plastic models. Ive saved many a model (and time) using a layer of tape when scribing panels.
Thank you for sharing the Tamiya masking tape tip, I had never thought of that application.
I haven't been around for a while but I always love watching your videos. Your attention to detail, real life references and improvement of kit parts is just astounding. Thanks for sharing your skill and creativity!
Thank you, I give the credit to two main sources: Model railroading in general and my father's pursuit of the hobby when I was growing up. Model railroading in the sense of "prototype modelling" to replicate a particular freight car, locomotive or other 1:1 item as closely as possible along with dealing with upgrading molded-on details (in the 1970's when I first got into the hobby many of the details on model railroad rolling stock were molded on as part of a one-piece body shell. Any many of the 1/25 truck kits were tooled in this same era!) in different ways such as replacement with scratch built parts or thinning down the oversize molded-on item. My father's pursuit of the hobby was an indirect influence as he took the prototype modelling approach and each freight car, locomotive etc. had essentially every nut and bolt replicated per the real one being modelled. As an example, this might involve replacing the ends on a one-piece boxcar body shell with different ones that matched the 1:1 (a whole world of subtle variations just on the topic of boxcar ends!), changing molded-on grab handles to wire and adding details not included in the kit like brake rigging on the underside. A large stock of hobby magazines was also readily available to read which is where many of the approaches I use now were first seen.
These are almost like the old Beetles or GM fishbowl buses, similar yet different. Only a trained eye will see the differences.
Simple little things make a difference. One detail on this kit I don't like is the bead near the top, never seen one up there but I also don't see trailers everyday. I think the walls are interchangable if I remember right. The walls also didn't attach good, think it was the line up tabs. I turned the trailer I had into a Utility. Do yo remember a magazine article on correcting the Italeri trailer? Think it had to be made taller.
Good eye on the rib - van trailers are just like your observation regarding Mack R hoods being similar to VW Beetles and GM fishbowl buses in having many subtle variations. Google image search of "Great Dane dry van trailer" returned a small number that did appear to have a bead at top of side wall (bottom edge of aluminum side member), one was a 2002 53' x 102' which appeared quite similar to kit overall. Looks like kit rib may have tooled a little oversize compared to 1:1 making rib more noticeable. Narrowing search to 2010 - 2012, based on timeline of kit's initial release, only turned up four Great Dane vans which were not as close a match for Moebius' kit. At top of side wall thickness of aluminum side member is visible but without a formed rib. While I don't recall reading article on correcting Italeri's "48 foot van" trailer you are 100% right as far as height goes - that kit is well short of 13' - 6" height. I believe it scales out to between 12' and 12' - 6". There were some van trailers built to this lower height, I think of Ontario's "beer box" 40 footers that were common into at least the early 1980's here. Since beer is a dense commodity 13' - 6" trailers would be overweight before they "cubed out" so breweries ordered lower height trailers for their fleets. This also provided a bit of extra clearance for low bridges in some areas. I think the change to 13' 6" trailers came about as a result of the lower height ones being an extra cost option to build. It was less expensive to order a standard van trailer and just not use the extra cubic space.
@@brsnorthernhorsejourney3579Guess they made the trailer from one that had the option. Maybe better to build it into the model and let the builder decide what to do with it. Now I know it was on so when I make a stock GD I can leave it or reduce it. Thanks for taking a look.
Genius hood hinges. Ty for the knowledgeable video.
Question about the amt Mack r685 model. After looking at pics online, I've noticed that every model displayed with the hood open, the hood doesn't fully open. The hood is always roughly at a 45°ish angle. Im no Mack guru mechanic, but Im pretty sure it opens further than that. The question is, have you ever encountered that with this model? I ask because Im about to build one and I like to prepare for future problems. I was just wondering if the model comes that way and if it's an easy fix. TY, sir.
Yes, kit hood hood hinge design does limit the hood opening angle and if I recall (from my days driving Mack R's about 30 years ago) hood does open up to almost 90 degrees on a 1:1 truck. I haven't made major changes to kit hood hinge on previous models (on most recent one in Conrail Mercury markings I re-used kit hinge, only changing mounting points to hood , you have got me thinking that it is time to at least mock up a frame/cab/hood and look at how hinges could be reworked to get pivot point higher, allowing hood to tilt 90 degrees. Something along the lines of hinges for the AMT W900 kzread.info/dash/bejne/mKWas8psgJqulKw.html
Awesome work Robert, great detail!!
Thank you - Moebius provides a great starting point, their kit goes together nicely.
Robert, Great work!You spoke about the lock rods, near the end of the video. Why are there sometimes double lock rods & on this kit only singles? A lot of work for those handles!
From my understanding, double lock rods are a "heavy duty" option which makes sense for intermodal trailers and containers that will spend at least some time on the railroad as railroading is an extremely severe service environment especially when slack action runs in and out of a train, the cargo shifting when this happens puts a lot of strain on doors and their locking mechanisms. For that matter, a ship at sea also can get tossed around which explains why the typical "sea can" also has two lock rods per door. Highway-only trailers, which is what this kit is based on, are fine with one lock rod per door and this also saves a small amount of weight. Every pound of trailer weight saved = another pound of payload!
Thank you Robert, I’m looking forward to your next video!!
Looks much better.
Thank you, 1/25 scale is large enough to make some molded-on details fairly obvious, at the same time the detail on this kit is nicely done and has good relief/depth so it would be a shame to remove it all and start "from scratch". (On trailer kits like AMT's 40' van I have taken this approach because the molded-in door hardware detail is quite shallow.)
@@brsnorthernhorsejourney3579 👍👍
@@brsnorthernhorsejourney3579Yes, AMT trailer detail exists, but just a trace of it (including front) unfortunately.
That's the case on a number of their kits, examples which come to mind are the hood latches and emblems on the Ford Louisvilles, also hood latches on the Mack R600 and emblems on Ford C series. Unfortunate because the detail itself is quite accurate, even the air glad hand connections on front of their van trailer. Hood latches are easy to scratch build, emblems are a little more difficult to correct. I have had success with using emblems cut from scrap "donor" cabs and sanding them down to appropriate thickness. @@goratgo1970
Outstanding detail Robert!