Cherry is not an American hardwood, is a species native to Europe and some parts of Asia and Africa naturalized in America like robinia pseudoacacia is an American hardwood naturalized in Europe, you are not talking of walnut, name that is shared by at least 2 different species, there is the American walnut and the European one and they have different characteristics.
@paulkramer41763 күн бұрын
I think you might be mistaken. Certainly plenty of Cherry varieties were brought from Asia, but I believe black cherry is native to the eastern coast of north America. I believe most, if not all the cherry sold as cherry by american wood yards, is from Black Cherry. It is a misunderstood wood for sure, but like chestnut, it was here when the first Europeans landed.
@andreachinaglia58043 күн бұрын
@@paulkramer4176 I stand corrected, black cherry is indeed an American indigenous species.
@MMWoodworking3 күн бұрын
Timestamps... - Basic facts about Cherry and Grading Scale explanation - 0:00-0:52 - Pricing and Lumber Grades - 0:52-2:08 - Color of Cherry - 2:08-2:57 - Milling- - 2:58-3:35 - Table Saw - 3:35-4:17 - Router - 4:18-5:09 - Bandsaw - 5:10-5:44 - Sanding - 5:45-6:24 - Chiseling - 6:25-7:11 - Glueing - 7:11-7:47 - Finishing - 7:48-8:57 - Overall Grade - 8:58-10:18 - Closer look at color change over time - 10:19-11:02
@steveho98848 күн бұрын
What brand do you use in your Kreg router table
@MMWoodworking8 күн бұрын
The router is a Bosch 1617.
@Raven-ep6pq10 күн бұрын
You would probably need to buy a luthier’s plunge router base for Dremel if you want more visibility.
@empt540011 күн бұрын
Thanks for this video
@rednoize439111 күн бұрын
too much talking not enough doing, lost me due to being boring,,, am I listening to an audio book or watching a video.. ? Confused...
This pains me to say because I had to say this about a Ryobi product a few weeks ago, but this router table is hot garbage! I bought this table for $124 at Lowes - on sale from $250. I thought I hit the jackpot. What I realize now is that Lowes couldn't give this thing away unless some shcmuck - me - bought it. Well, I'm not a schumk but I am green at wood working and the important lesson I learned today? Steer clear of Kreg products. The clamps to fasten down the fence? Garbage. The instruction book is barely understandable. The packaging had most of the screws and parts in un-marked pouches so you had to almost guess which screw was called for in the instructions. The list goes on. I paid $124 for this item and in my opinion it was over priced by $100.
@MMWoodworking14 күн бұрын
That’s a shame to hear that it wasn’t great. The clamps can be tightened significantly using the Phillips screw on them. Lock them down and then tighten them. You can get them extremely tight if you want. Then unlock them and the next time you go to lock the fence it will maintain that tightness.
@dian314517 күн бұрын
What a well thought out and comprehensive tutorial! I generally try to keep to videos that are under 30 min, it can indicate that the tuber likes to hear himself talk. There wasn’t a wasted moment here! Thank you! Had to sub.
@jimcarter492918 күн бұрын
Have the same drill press and overall pretty happy with it. Sold an old delta floor model from the 40's because I wanted a smaller footprint and variable speed. Do miss how how smooth, quiet and depth it could drill though. Gotta say I though maybe something was wrong with it on first start up due to weird noises but it has become quieter or may I'm used to it. On mine the laser is way off buy I have never bothered to adjust it. Biggest disappoint is the table lift crank set up, hard to get at and inherently awkward and clunky. I too had to shim my custom table to level. As far as chuck goes quality exceeded my exceptions. Overall a good drill press for the price.
@jimcarter492919 күн бұрын
Thanks your tips made me like my saw.
@MMWoodworking21 күн бұрын
Timestamps: - Overview - 0:00-1:23 - Requirements - 1:23-2:54 - What Makes Good Dust Collection - 2:54-4:35 - Complications with Kreg Table - 4:35-8:30 - Look at Shroud - 8:30-13:10 - Look at Internal Angles - 13:11-15:01 - Basic External Construction - 15:01-16:52 - Testing (Total) - 16:52-26:45 - Test with NO shroud + large insert - 17:19-19:27 - Test with NO shroud + small insert - 19:27-20:26 - Test with SHROUD ONLY - 20:27-22:30 - Test with SHROUD and DADO ARM - 22:31-24:30 - Test with SHROUD and FENCE HOSE - 24:30-26:45 - How to improve going forward - 26:46-end
@kerryschoolfield153727 күн бұрын
If using a sled for the miters, I suppose the 45 degree should be set off the sled top vs the table ( since there may be a variation between sled and table) and zero out the wixey guage to the sled. Your thoughts?
@MMWoodworking27 күн бұрын
Interesting thought. I just do it to the table, but if you think your sled may not be quiet flat, then yeah, I guess it would make the most sense to do it to the sled. I had never really thought about it to be honest. I always prefer MDF on jigs because it is heavy, and stays pretty lat, which means I can be fairly confident it is the same. I may have to go test my sled later and see if it is any different. You may just have to test yours with some scrap wood.
@kerryschoolfield153727 күн бұрын
This was very helpful. I appreciate the detail and the clear explanation of each step.
@jamontelittle439927 күн бұрын
What was the maximum object height you were able to drill? I heard you mention 7-9 in was your goal but what is the actual maximum distance from chuck to bed at its lowest setting on this drill press?
@MMWoodworking27 күн бұрын
From my table to the chuck when the jaws are fully tightened (out), its 12"... add 3/4" for my MDF table, and the jaws fully retracted adds another 5/8" or so. Basically, with no bit and the jaws fully out, about 12 3/4", and with the jaws full retracted it is about 13 3/8". Just account for your chosen drill bit from there. You will also want to leave at least 1/8" to actually get the object under the drill bit, and account for any point on a brad point as well. I hope that helps. This is all +/- 1/16th or so.
@peroperic68728 күн бұрын
greatest bullshit I have ever owned!!! throw it away and buy literaly anything else. you don't have to buy festool, bot what ever you will buy it will be better than this!!!!
@MMWoodworkingАй бұрын
Timestamps: Basic Overview - 0:00-1:01 What Do You Get - 1:01-1:18 Pros 1:18-2:23 Cutting Dimensions - 2:23-3:26 Cons - 3:26-9:35 Circle Cutter 9:36-11:12 Re-Assembly - 11:13-11:35 Edge Guide Setup and Test - 11:36-17:45 Circle Guide Tips and Test 17:46-20:18 Final Thoughts 20:18-END
@woodandfoodАй бұрын
Very helpful as I’ve just bought th equivalent kit in the uk! Thanks!
@cootermcguffin1874Ай бұрын
23:20 I bought my 1617 "factory reconditioned" and I do not have the three screws you mention. Does anyone know what the screw thread size is?
@MMWoodworkingАй бұрын
I believe it is a 3/16-24....The rough dimensions of the screws are below (excuse my lack of terminology, and I am doing this with a ruler so it's hard to count the exact threads): - Flat top, with that conical down shape (about 1/8"), with a Phillips drive. - From top of head to end of bolt = a little under 3/4" - From bottom of cone to end = a hair under 5/8" - The diameter of the threads = 0.185... 3/16"... 4.7mm - The number of threads on a 1/4" is 6ish, so over the total length is around 13-14ish, so 24ish over 1in. This is pretty rough, as I don't have anything other than my eyes and a ruler. I hope that helps and is close enough to get you what you need.
@cootermcguffin1874Ай бұрын
Thanks it was! I went to Ace hardware and bought three stainless 10-24 x 3/4" with flat Allen heads and they have worked perfectly. Thanks!
@OGMannАй бұрын
Without either anchoring it, or beefing up the base, seems vibration could be a serious issue. Waiting to see if you observe that.
@MMWoodworkingАй бұрын
Yes and no. It depends on the bit you are using. I almost always clamp it, or bolt it down. Vibration is worse with larger bits at slower speeds - think low grit sandpaper at a low speed. It's more just it will move in general because it lacks weight, so any pressure put on it can make it slide. The play in the lowering mechanism creates problems that mimic vibration due to the bit moving. It really needs to be clamped or bolted down.
@johnmitchell3375Ай бұрын
The rust come when you ship on the Ocean. As an Engineer the rust is surface only and won't bother the drill press
@MMWoodworkingАй бұрын
That makes sense. It definitely crossed the Pacific. Thank you so much for that info, because it certainly makes me feel better about whether it is structural or not. Cheers!
@stevebergstrom7505Ай бұрын
Great video. I’ve used diablo in the past with no complaints!
@MMWoodworkingАй бұрын
Thank you. I think Diablo really is a great line.
@tae912Ай бұрын
I just got mine and boy is it bigger than I imagined. I am surprised there's even an XL version of this..
@MMWoodworkingАй бұрын
Hah. Yeah, it is so much bigger than any double square I have ever seen in person. I love it, but the size definitely isn't for everyone. I hope you enjoy it!
@CustomWoodWorkDecorАй бұрын
Great video but I’m having trouble with glue squeeze out on the inside. I try cleaning it with a straw, wet rag, etc, but I still see the ugly marks when I stain. Any advice?
@MMWoodworkingАй бұрын
Sure... - Stain/finish the inside first. Once it is glued up you won't be working on the inside anyways, so always stain or finish the inside first. - When you place your normal glue, not the watered down, don't place a ton near the inside edge. Paint some there, but not a ton, and then put more in the middle or outside, and as it squeezes to close, it will squeeze the glue in. - Put painters tape on those inside edges before gluing up. Then, just peel it off after it has all dried. This will prevent most squeeze out from sticking, and blue painters tape is usually pretty gentle on stain/finishes if the stain is fully dry. - At a minimum, just stain the inside before gluing it up, but for me, experience with how much glue, and where to place more/less of it, came with time and experience. You get a feel for it after your fourth or fifth box. Try all three at once if you really want to do everything you can. Wiping with a rag is a terrible idea if it isn't an area you will sand after, imo, and I have no idea why people do it on internal spaces. It just pushes more glue into the wood. - If all else fails, a small card scraper may be able to remove a very thin layer of wood, and take the glue with it, but you will need to wait for the glue to totally dry.
@MrMarshall03Ай бұрын
Great review. How do I stop the table from swiveling?
@MMWoodworkingАй бұрын
For left-right horizontal - If you are facing the front of the press, on the left side of the pole, behind the table, there is a lever that cranks it loose/tight. It is a small handle, maybe 3in long, and moving it up will tighten, and back down and away to loosen. It's the same handle to lock the table at a certain height. To stop table angle tilt, right under the table, in the middle, there is a bolt, iirc, and that is tightened/loosened to adjust and stop the angle tilt. Hopefully that is what you are looking for.
@joncloutier9597Ай бұрын
Nice review, Thanks
@sivucitАй бұрын
Hi, Just subscribed. I just bought same 1617 combo router. Can you please suggest me the foldable router table may be a link in amazon or others plus the kreg plate please.. much apprecaited in advance.
@MMWoodworkingАй бұрын
It won't let me put the full links in for some reason. Perhaps they are too long. You will just need to google... Rockler Folding Router Table Kreg Benchtop Router Table Kreg Precision Router Table Insert Kreg Precision Router Table Lift. (If you want the lift, and not the plate). Just copy and paste those into Google
@kennnva551Ай бұрын
Having tried a similar approach a few years ago, I can testify that if your chuck is secured in the drill press via Morse taper, do not use these. Danger comes when the chuck frees itself from the vibrations and drops ... still spinning at whatever RPM you were using. Been there, done that and fortunately uninjured.
@MMWoodworkingАй бұрын
Interesting. That was my one major question mark. What other chuck types are out there? Thanks for the heads up!
@kennnva551Ай бұрын
@@MMWoodworking I believe many chucks on smaller drill presses are secured to the shaft with a bolt or screw up inside between the 3 clamping jaws, but I've had no experience with them. My drill press is the only one I've owned ... a Craftsman floor model with a 3/4" chuck. I bought it for when I was doing a lot of steel work because its table has a threaded drain hole for connecting a coolant recirculating system which I used, and because many of the drill bits I used had Morse tapers in lieu of using the chuck.
@enterprise59Ай бұрын
Could of saved a few hundred and buying it from Menards for 300 give or take. I'm planning on getting this model soon. The 10-305 has an upgraded fence and dust port
@MMWoodworkingАй бұрын
The downside of the 10-305 is the smaller motor. That's the tradeoff. If you only need 1/3hp, then yeah, the cost is great. I moved to the 3061 because the 1/3hp on my Ryobi was not enough.
@enterprise59Ай бұрын
@@MMWoodworking My main use would be for pen turning and small projects so maybe the 1/3rd will do.. we'll see.. thanks for the reply!
@muntee33Ай бұрын
You know you can twist the smaller diameter metal tube protruding out slightly at the top, this loosens it and it can be extended up and twisted back the other way to lock it at the desired height.
@MMWoodworkingАй бұрын
Timestamps: - What's in the Box! - 0:00-1:54 - Basic Assembly/Install - 1:54-4:08 - Pros - 4:08-5:27 - Cons - 5:27-8:03 - A Few Tips - 8:03-10:06 - Demonstration - 10:06-10:40 - Final Thoughts - 10:40-END
@charlesstevenson5141Ай бұрын
This is really only good for model building and small inlay work.
@WARinMYhead1Ай бұрын
thanks for this thorough review! Very helpful in making my decision!
@cialibrown44932 ай бұрын
Could have shown part of the resawing
@josephking65152 ай бұрын
A suggestion if I may. Laminate your Drill Speed Table so it will last a long time plus before printing it off highlight every second line to make it easier to follow the settings across the page. Saves inadvertently going up or down the line and getting the speed setting wrong for the bit you are using.
@craighartwell59302 ай бұрын
Has anyone tried these adapters with the Thien Cyclone Separator baffle?
@d-not_telling2 ай бұрын
What router model do you have with this?
@MMWoodworking2 ай бұрын
Bosch 1617 EVS (I bought the kit with the plunge, but you can buy it with just the standard base for less, if you don't need the plunge base).
@ramihaj86282 ай бұрын
What is the best type? Which lasts as long as possible with re-sharpening. Diablo or Freud? I have a Dewalt table saw model wde7492
@Reign_In_Blood_9632 ай бұрын
He literally answers your question in the video. Neither are better. If you are using a DeWalt TS, go with the Diablo (or CMT) they are the best blades for the $$$.
@MMWoodworking2 ай бұрын
In your case, just grab a Diablo. They both last a similar time, it’s just that one is able to be re-sharpened and the other is more of just a consumable. As someone else said, you can check out CMT as well if you are looking for a certain type of blade that Diablo doesn’t sell… a flat-top grind rip, for example.
@henrysara77162 ай бұрын
Thy all points very well sum up.
@MMWoodworking2 ай бұрын
Timestamps Intro - 0:00-0:22 Who Makes Them? - 0:22-0:51 Price Difference - 0:51- 2:21 Tooth Size - 2:21-2:49 Availability Of Sizes/Line - 2:50-4:49 Other Small Differences - 4:50-8:28 Which is Right for You? - 8:28-END
@liquidrockaquatics39002 ай бұрын
As much as people will talk shit about cheap router bits (myself included), it must be said that there is no better way to learn than to just use the bits to see how they perform at different depths. Once a person gets a feel for what they prefer, then spend money on good quality bits
@MMWoodworking2 ай бұрын
I could not agree more. They have a place, and serve a purpose, at the right price.
@tobeforgottenisworsethande89952 ай бұрын
I got this kit the other day. They're all right. There will made and everything is within acceptable tolerance. The bearings were a little dry though
@ELee-fr4tr2 ай бұрын
good video but to much blabbing, simple concept, a picture is worth more than a thousand words
@MMWoodworking2 ай бұрын
Timestamps for Each Bit Type Intro - 0:00- 2:55 Cove Bits - 2:56-6:05 Roundover Bits - 6:06-7:13 Chamfer and 45 Bevel - 7:14-10:35 Roman Ogee - 10:36-11:31 Slot Cutting Bits - 11:32-16:41 Straight Bits - 16:42-18:30 Flush/Pattern Bits - 18:31-20:55 Dovetail Bit - 20:56-26:15 Final Thoughts - 26:26-END
@charlesmeloro99022 ай бұрын
One of the best reviews and detail description of a tool I've ever seen
@RichBarschdorf2 ай бұрын
Please buy a wireless mic for your videos .
@rogertyler32372 ай бұрын
Lookslike The Drill Press Is Going In Reverce.
@ulgenatakman48492 ай бұрын
I like it, but all of these methods are not 90 degrees right ?
Пікірлер
Timestamps: Intro - 0:00-0:17 Torrefication Explained - 0:17-0:54 Benefits - 0:55-2:06 Downsides - 2:07-3:40 Price - 3:41-4:12 Rating Scale - 4:13-5:00 Milling - 5:00-5:48 Table Saw - 5:49-6:43 Bandsaw - 6:44-7:46 Chisel. - 7:47-8:11 Router - 8:11-9:07 Sanding - 9:08-9:30 Gluing - 9:31-10:05 Finishing 10:06-10:38 Closer Look At Wood - 10:38-11:03 Overall - 10:04-END
Cherry is not an American hardwood, is a species native to Europe and some parts of Asia and Africa naturalized in America like robinia pseudoacacia is an American hardwood naturalized in Europe, you are not talking of walnut, name that is shared by at least 2 different species, there is the American walnut and the European one and they have different characteristics.
I think you might be mistaken. Certainly plenty of Cherry varieties were brought from Asia, but I believe black cherry is native to the eastern coast of north America. I believe most, if not all the cherry sold as cherry by american wood yards, is from Black Cherry. It is a misunderstood wood for sure, but like chestnut, it was here when the first Europeans landed.
@@paulkramer4176 I stand corrected, black cherry is indeed an American indigenous species.
Timestamps... - Basic facts about Cherry and Grading Scale explanation - 0:00-0:52 - Pricing and Lumber Grades - 0:52-2:08 - Color of Cherry - 2:08-2:57 - Milling- - 2:58-3:35 - Table Saw - 3:35-4:17 - Router - 4:18-5:09 - Bandsaw - 5:10-5:44 - Sanding - 5:45-6:24 - Chiseling - 6:25-7:11 - Glueing - 7:11-7:47 - Finishing - 7:48-8:57 - Overall Grade - 8:58-10:18 - Closer look at color change over time - 10:19-11:02
What brand do you use in your Kreg router table
The router is a Bosch 1617.
You would probably need to buy a luthier’s plunge router base for Dremel if you want more visibility.
Thanks for this video
too much talking not enough doing, lost me due to being boring,,, am I listening to an audio book or watching a video.. ? Confused...
thank you , loved the info
Timestamps. Basic overview of wood and price - 0:00- 1:40 Scale - 1:41-1:52 Milling 1:53- 2:26 Table Saw - 2:26-3:00 Bandsaw - 3:01-3:51 Router - 3:52-4:24 Chiseling - 4:24-5:15 Gluing - 5:15-5:35 Sanding - 5:35-6:13 Finishing - 6:14-6:55 Closer Look at the Wood - 6:55-END
This pains me to say because I had to say this about a Ryobi product a few weeks ago, but this router table is hot garbage! I bought this table for $124 at Lowes - on sale from $250. I thought I hit the jackpot. What I realize now is that Lowes couldn't give this thing away unless some shcmuck - me - bought it. Well, I'm not a schumk but I am green at wood working and the important lesson I learned today? Steer clear of Kreg products. The clamps to fasten down the fence? Garbage. The instruction book is barely understandable. The packaging had most of the screws and parts in un-marked pouches so you had to almost guess which screw was called for in the instructions. The list goes on. I paid $124 for this item and in my opinion it was over priced by $100.
That’s a shame to hear that it wasn’t great. The clamps can be tightened significantly using the Phillips screw on them. Lock them down and then tighten them. You can get them extremely tight if you want. Then unlock them and the next time you go to lock the fence it will maintain that tightness.
What a well thought out and comprehensive tutorial! I generally try to keep to videos that are under 30 min, it can indicate that the tuber likes to hear himself talk. There wasn’t a wasted moment here! Thank you! Had to sub.
Have the same drill press and overall pretty happy with it. Sold an old delta floor model from the 40's because I wanted a smaller footprint and variable speed. Do miss how how smooth, quiet and depth it could drill though. Gotta say I though maybe something was wrong with it on first start up due to weird noises but it has become quieter or may I'm used to it. On mine the laser is way off buy I have never bothered to adjust it. Biggest disappoint is the table lift crank set up, hard to get at and inherently awkward and clunky. I too had to shim my custom table to level. As far as chuck goes quality exceeded my exceptions. Overall a good drill press for the price.
Thanks your tips made me like my saw.
Timestamps: - Overview - 0:00-1:23 - Requirements - 1:23-2:54 - What Makes Good Dust Collection - 2:54-4:35 - Complications with Kreg Table - 4:35-8:30 - Look at Shroud - 8:30-13:10 - Look at Internal Angles - 13:11-15:01 - Basic External Construction - 15:01-16:52 - Testing (Total) - 16:52-26:45 - Test with NO shroud + large insert - 17:19-19:27 - Test with NO shroud + small insert - 19:27-20:26 - Test with SHROUD ONLY - 20:27-22:30 - Test with SHROUD and DADO ARM - 22:31-24:30 - Test with SHROUD and FENCE HOSE - 24:30-26:45 - How to improve going forward - 26:46-end
If using a sled for the miters, I suppose the 45 degree should be set off the sled top vs the table ( since there may be a variation between sled and table) and zero out the wixey guage to the sled. Your thoughts?
Interesting thought. I just do it to the table, but if you think your sled may not be quiet flat, then yeah, I guess it would make the most sense to do it to the sled. I had never really thought about it to be honest. I always prefer MDF on jigs because it is heavy, and stays pretty lat, which means I can be fairly confident it is the same. I may have to go test my sled later and see if it is any different. You may just have to test yours with some scrap wood.
This was very helpful. I appreciate the detail and the clear explanation of each step.
What was the maximum object height you were able to drill? I heard you mention 7-9 in was your goal but what is the actual maximum distance from chuck to bed at its lowest setting on this drill press?
From my table to the chuck when the jaws are fully tightened (out), its 12"... add 3/4" for my MDF table, and the jaws fully retracted adds another 5/8" or so. Basically, with no bit and the jaws fully out, about 12 3/4", and with the jaws full retracted it is about 13 3/8". Just account for your chosen drill bit from there. You will also want to leave at least 1/8" to actually get the object under the drill bit, and account for any point on a brad point as well. I hope that helps. This is all +/- 1/16th or so.
greatest bullshit I have ever owned!!! throw it away and buy literaly anything else. you don't have to buy festool, bot what ever you will buy it will be better than this!!!!
Timestamps: Basic Overview - 0:00-1:01 What Do You Get - 1:01-1:18 Pros 1:18-2:23 Cutting Dimensions - 2:23-3:26 Cons - 3:26-9:35 Circle Cutter 9:36-11:12 Re-Assembly - 11:13-11:35 Edge Guide Setup and Test - 11:36-17:45 Circle Guide Tips and Test 17:46-20:18 Final Thoughts 20:18-END
Very helpful as I’ve just bought th equivalent kit in the uk! Thanks!
23:20 I bought my 1617 "factory reconditioned" and I do not have the three screws you mention. Does anyone know what the screw thread size is?
I believe it is a 3/16-24....The rough dimensions of the screws are below (excuse my lack of terminology, and I am doing this with a ruler so it's hard to count the exact threads): - Flat top, with that conical down shape (about 1/8"), with a Phillips drive. - From top of head to end of bolt = a little under 3/4" - From bottom of cone to end = a hair under 5/8" - The diameter of the threads = 0.185... 3/16"... 4.7mm - The number of threads on a 1/4" is 6ish, so over the total length is around 13-14ish, so 24ish over 1in. This is pretty rough, as I don't have anything other than my eyes and a ruler. I hope that helps and is close enough to get you what you need.
Thanks it was! I went to Ace hardware and bought three stainless 10-24 x 3/4" with flat Allen heads and they have worked perfectly. Thanks!
Without either anchoring it, or beefing up the base, seems vibration could be a serious issue. Waiting to see if you observe that.
Yes and no. It depends on the bit you are using. I almost always clamp it, or bolt it down. Vibration is worse with larger bits at slower speeds - think low grit sandpaper at a low speed. It's more just it will move in general because it lacks weight, so any pressure put on it can make it slide. The play in the lowering mechanism creates problems that mimic vibration due to the bit moving. It really needs to be clamped or bolted down.
The rust come when you ship on the Ocean. As an Engineer the rust is surface only and won't bother the drill press
That makes sense. It definitely crossed the Pacific. Thank you so much for that info, because it certainly makes me feel better about whether it is structural or not. Cheers!
Great video. I’ve used diablo in the past with no complaints!
Thank you. I think Diablo really is a great line.
I just got mine and boy is it bigger than I imagined. I am surprised there's even an XL version of this..
Hah. Yeah, it is so much bigger than any double square I have ever seen in person. I love it, but the size definitely isn't for everyone. I hope you enjoy it!
Great video but I’m having trouble with glue squeeze out on the inside. I try cleaning it with a straw, wet rag, etc, but I still see the ugly marks when I stain. Any advice?
Sure... - Stain/finish the inside first. Once it is glued up you won't be working on the inside anyways, so always stain or finish the inside first. - When you place your normal glue, not the watered down, don't place a ton near the inside edge. Paint some there, but not a ton, and then put more in the middle or outside, and as it squeezes to close, it will squeeze the glue in. - Put painters tape on those inside edges before gluing up. Then, just peel it off after it has all dried. This will prevent most squeeze out from sticking, and blue painters tape is usually pretty gentle on stain/finishes if the stain is fully dry. - At a minimum, just stain the inside before gluing it up, but for me, experience with how much glue, and where to place more/less of it, came with time and experience. You get a feel for it after your fourth or fifth box. Try all three at once if you really want to do everything you can. Wiping with a rag is a terrible idea if it isn't an area you will sand after, imo, and I have no idea why people do it on internal spaces. It just pushes more glue into the wood. - If all else fails, a small card scraper may be able to remove a very thin layer of wood, and take the glue with it, but you will need to wait for the glue to totally dry.
Great review. How do I stop the table from swiveling?
For left-right horizontal - If you are facing the front of the press, on the left side of the pole, behind the table, there is a lever that cranks it loose/tight. It is a small handle, maybe 3in long, and moving it up will tighten, and back down and away to loosen. It's the same handle to lock the table at a certain height. To stop table angle tilt, right under the table, in the middle, there is a bolt, iirc, and that is tightened/loosened to adjust and stop the angle tilt. Hopefully that is what you are looking for.
Nice review, Thanks
Hi, Just subscribed. I just bought same 1617 combo router. Can you please suggest me the foldable router table may be a link in amazon or others plus the kreg plate please.. much apprecaited in advance.
It won't let me put the full links in for some reason. Perhaps they are too long. You will just need to google... Rockler Folding Router Table Kreg Benchtop Router Table Kreg Precision Router Table Insert Kreg Precision Router Table Lift. (If you want the lift, and not the plate). Just copy and paste those into Google
Having tried a similar approach a few years ago, I can testify that if your chuck is secured in the drill press via Morse taper, do not use these. Danger comes when the chuck frees itself from the vibrations and drops ... still spinning at whatever RPM you were using. Been there, done that and fortunately uninjured.
Interesting. That was my one major question mark. What other chuck types are out there? Thanks for the heads up!
@@MMWoodworking I believe many chucks on smaller drill presses are secured to the shaft with a bolt or screw up inside between the 3 clamping jaws, but I've had no experience with them. My drill press is the only one I've owned ... a Craftsman floor model with a 3/4" chuck. I bought it for when I was doing a lot of steel work because its table has a threaded drain hole for connecting a coolant recirculating system which I used, and because many of the drill bits I used had Morse tapers in lieu of using the chuck.
Could of saved a few hundred and buying it from Menards for 300 give or take. I'm planning on getting this model soon. The 10-305 has an upgraded fence and dust port
The downside of the 10-305 is the smaller motor. That's the tradeoff. If you only need 1/3hp, then yeah, the cost is great. I moved to the 3061 because the 1/3hp on my Ryobi was not enough.
@@MMWoodworking My main use would be for pen turning and small projects so maybe the 1/3rd will do.. we'll see.. thanks for the reply!
You know you can twist the smaller diameter metal tube protruding out slightly at the top, this loosens it and it can be extended up and twisted back the other way to lock it at the desired height.
Timestamps: - What's in the Box! - 0:00-1:54 - Basic Assembly/Install - 1:54-4:08 - Pros - 4:08-5:27 - Cons - 5:27-8:03 - A Few Tips - 8:03-10:06 - Demonstration - 10:06-10:40 - Final Thoughts - 10:40-END
This is really only good for model building and small inlay work.
thanks for this thorough review! Very helpful in making my decision!
Could have shown part of the resawing
A suggestion if I may. Laminate your Drill Speed Table so it will last a long time plus before printing it off highlight every second line to make it easier to follow the settings across the page. Saves inadvertently going up or down the line and getting the speed setting wrong for the bit you are using.
Has anyone tried these adapters with the Thien Cyclone Separator baffle?
What router model do you have with this?
Bosch 1617 EVS (I bought the kit with the plunge, but you can buy it with just the standard base for less, if you don't need the plunge base).
What is the best type? Which lasts as long as possible with re-sharpening. Diablo or Freud? I have a Dewalt table saw model wde7492
He literally answers your question in the video. Neither are better. If you are using a DeWalt TS, go with the Diablo (or CMT) they are the best blades for the $$$.
In your case, just grab a Diablo. They both last a similar time, it’s just that one is able to be re-sharpened and the other is more of just a consumable. As someone else said, you can check out CMT as well if you are looking for a certain type of blade that Diablo doesn’t sell… a flat-top grind rip, for example.
Thy all points very well sum up.
Timestamps Intro - 0:00-0:22 Who Makes Them? - 0:22-0:51 Price Difference - 0:51- 2:21 Tooth Size - 2:21-2:49 Availability Of Sizes/Line - 2:50-4:49 Other Small Differences - 4:50-8:28 Which is Right for You? - 8:28-END
As much as people will talk shit about cheap router bits (myself included), it must be said that there is no better way to learn than to just use the bits to see how they perform at different depths. Once a person gets a feel for what they prefer, then spend money on good quality bits
I could not agree more. They have a place, and serve a purpose, at the right price.
I got this kit the other day. They're all right. There will made and everything is within acceptable tolerance. The bearings were a little dry though
good video but to much blabbing, simple concept, a picture is worth more than a thousand words
Timestamps for Each Bit Type Intro - 0:00- 2:55 Cove Bits - 2:56-6:05 Roundover Bits - 6:06-7:13 Chamfer and 45 Bevel - 7:14-10:35 Roman Ogee - 10:36-11:31 Slot Cutting Bits - 11:32-16:41 Straight Bits - 16:42-18:30 Flush/Pattern Bits - 18:31-20:55 Dovetail Bit - 20:56-26:15 Final Thoughts - 26:26-END
One of the best reviews and detail description of a tool I've ever seen
Please buy a wireless mic for your videos .
Lookslike The Drill Press Is Going In Reverce.
I like it, but all of these methods are not 90 degrees right ?
They are all for 90 degrees, and only 90 degrees.