HighTechLab - A CurrentConnected LLC Channel.
Does Solar, Self-Sufficiency, Electricity, DIY Projects, Welding & More interest you? Then you are tuned into the right channel! My name is Dexter and you're watching HighTechLab!
I've been interested in electricity since I knew how to walk. By the time I was 5 I couldn't count on 2 hands how many times I had been zapped by that mysterious force coming from that thing on the wall. From building Tesla Coils at age 8 to being in the electrical apprenticeship, to leaving that and building custom PLC Controls at home, electricity is just one of those things that gets me going!
By day I do sheet metal engineering, by night, - the smell of Ozone in the shop is not a rare occurrence. Here on this channel I share that knowledge and inspiration with others that are just as crazy as I am!
Oh, Yeah - that "Current Connected" mumbo jumbo is my company that I started at age 21, so I've got that going for me.
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Can I use battery cells without a shunt or BMS? Could you please go over options? I'm building two battery's for a off grid system. The cells are advertised @3.2volts / 320 amps.
- I wouldn't talk about "compression" as the name of the structure you described, but only about preserving the original dimensions. I've noticed that some people think that this kind of threaded rod structure is supposed to PRESS the cells against each other with a certain N force. That is a misconception. the purpose is to make only a structure that WILL RESIST a certain compression directed outward from the cells without letting it change the shape of the cells. If before the cells are put into use, by tightening the threaded rods, inward compression is caused to the cells - it is useless and possibly harmful if it changes the shape of the cells at any point! - I feel that you put the aluminum upper and lower corner pieces too far apart. Now there is a lot of unstabilized space between them for the cutting board to give way to the bulge of the cells. Personally, I would have placed the upper "collar" an inch lower and the lower collar correspondingly an inch higher. If the location of the upper and lower stiffeners were clearly closer to the center of the large side of the cell, it would indeed significantly prevent bulging compared to your current solution. So the cutting boards off and to drill new holes. - Many people who build a battery pack in a similar way also place a sheet of cardboard against the surface of each cell, so that they don't damage each other with a hard surface, with a soft sheet of cardboard protecting between them. - The threaded rod should also be coated with some kind of soft hose to avoid hitting the hard metal and damaging the sides of the cells. It is recommended to place the threaded rods as close as possible to the side of the cells, so that the cells cannot slide sideways under any circumstances.
This is the most ridiculous solar addition I've ever seen! This has to be some sort of joke right!?
Yea, Hi from 2024. Lots of fire and toxic chemicals and people dying. Deluded idiots are still making excuses.
And proof that inside is realy LiFePO4 chemistry and not something else is where? 🤔🤷♂️
And proof that inside is realy LiFePO4 chemistry and not something else is where? 🤔🤷♂️
How about a update on this BMS?
I don’t think the current-sensing shunt-bars are in the proper orientation. Many have the current carrying terminals oriented up/down, you want those oriented left/right. This way, air is drawn up through the precision manganese strips via convection for cooling. Although float current on the battery is small, discharge currents can be high enough to discolor the manganese without proper air-flow. Once discolored (purple-ish), their precision resistance is permanently out of calibration. Also, I’d avoid using metric dies on AWG wire. Metric with metric or awg with awg.
So we need a a 20k dollar solar setup and a massive generator to be energy independent?
What up cheddar bob?
Hot ... Damn ... !!!
you basically did nothing in 15 minutes - lol
So why do some LiFePO4 catch fire and some don't ??? Some are cheaper and aren't really what they claim I guess. I've seen pucture tests with alleged LiFePO4 and no fire at all.
Thanks for posting this video. Some people say compression is not required but the CATL 280Ah spec sheet I have clearly states for maximum life >6000 cycles the cells should be compressed with 300 Kgf for at least the first 180 cycles or 6 months. Charging max 0.5C @ 25 C.
Thank-you for sharing, I'm going to try this today ! Hubby & I will LOVE it ~ Appreciated your Clear Instructions & a quick & concise video : ) So Cute about your Wife & Lemons for her Bath : )
why are you polluting the enviroment?
Great introduction, very responsible.
Only warranty I have done are these modules.😢
Really cool idea, but honestly, these are just overpriced for what it takes to make it. Seems to me, that they want to make ALL of the R&D in the first year of selling. If they were more reasonably priced I would have bought 20. Just not worth what they are asking for them. Thanks for the information and video!
Most of the costs are from shipping, they are mostly air! Still far better price than any other product out there
Get a soft start Programmer.
But my penis is not pointy and sharp like that spear. Is it still safe to use this batteries to power my doll ?
Groound mount?
I'm no expert but my crimps when cut look like a solid piece of copper on those individual strands are very visible
This bad video. To have the right test you need to overcharge the battery
I have punctured LiPO batteries which are very different many times. I have noticed that leaving the cells shorted with something metallic it makes it worse. If you would have removed the tool it might not have caught fire at all. I feel like leaving the cells shorted allows the current to create more heat than just a plain puncture.
The battery will get too hot under the hood and the BMS, which is the battery management system will shut down the ability for it to charge or restart. You would have to do a revocation somewhere else inside the vehicle.
Hi Hitechlab. I have just seen your video. I have a similar inverter with a different problem but has a board like that. In my inverter, the small 8-pin IC labelled U3 on the board (just next to big black relay) is blown and charred such that it's identifier part number are not readable. Would you mind reading that IC part number for me please if you don't mind, even from the old circuit board ?
Great Video. What brand is the orange inverter?
Can you please write me name of the U3 Ic on the control boad
Can you please write me name of the U3 IC
I wanted to tell to your viewers how i had been ripped off by a Chinese battery company TAICO. I am not a you tuber and my sole purpose is to add this company's name to a DO NOT BUY list: kzread.info/dash/bejne/pJettsmtYMa0pKw.htmlsi=AMbkrMykLJMsKy5T
me
Never tighten the fixture to factory specs when the battery is not fully charged to 3.6v per cell.. I would suggest as low as 1 to 2 foot pounds on the nuts at most.. Slowly bring the battery pack to full charge and even back off the pressure a bit as they charge.. Top charging all the cells paralleled at 3.65v before putting them in pack series is old school.. Using a modern BMS with 2 amp active balancer and slowly bring the whole pack to full charge allows the active balancer to do all the work.. Alot less messing around compressing uncompressing connecting then disconnecting and rearranging the cells.. Compression is only good for new virgin cells and is used during the initial 10 to 50 or so cycles of conditioning to assure that any trapped gas bubbles get forced into the internal channels built into the cell laminations.. Once this period is over compression is not really going to improve cell life.. He was correct when he said overtightening can and does destroy the batteries.. If you are going for a long life be aware that these batteries will degrade over the years no matter what and even with gentle care they will be at 80% capacity in around 10 to 15 years when that decline will increase.. A slightly bulged battery is no indication of it being trash.. What trashes these cells is exceeding the charge/discharge rate and voltage minimum and maximum.. Very light compression should be maintained if you plan on going from sub 2.5v to 3.65v per cell on a constant basis but be aware this will quickly degrade the cells.. The best route for long life is never exceed .5c charging or discharging and keep the cell voltage between 2.8v and 3.5v.. This alone will add thousands of cycles to these cells.. It is also always best to have the cells standing terminals up for that initial conditioning number of cycles before you put them on their side..
Dude, they're $75 a piece.
Nice review.
Better question... where the hell are the fuses... Holy hell. 400w of solar coming in, and no fuses.
Pv is current limited. You could have a short circuit and nothing would happen. If you put a 15a fuse, the 9a short circuit current of the panels would not be able to blow it.
Thanks for the tip 👍
U helped me out, IT WAS MY AMPERAGE I also cleaned the coils tho. Thanks for the tips
Bleachade iiiiiiii sounds refreshing
I seen a thread in DYI you helped some one with a powmr 230v 50hz,mine is a 48v hybrid with 240v settings and 60hz,but it has only hot and N and ground,I want it to run a small hot tub only(120)gallon,running now on AIMS 6000W 24V SPLIT PHASE .Will it run the 240v only hot tub or will the single phase 240v not work,thanks
When whole voltage water pipe thing isn't correct. It spike because the pack is already charged and it takes the ms a certain programmed time to deactivate the output.
hey
Compression is mostly a myth. kzread.info/dash/bejne/aGdhsNpwZcLeiLA.html
BLEACH WATER?
Thanks
It is necessary to place an insulator between the cells, and heat-shrink the threads of the studs. Better at three. Because if the thread cuts through the blue shell of the cell, it will be very bad. The same thing will happen if the blue shell deteriorates over time and a short circuit occurs between the housings and the adjacent cell.
It's clear how nicely the electrolyte burns after a while. And people think that solid state batteries will make anything safer other than preventing the calm bonfire of the liquid electrolyte...
And you can heat the home while the batteries charge. #firehazard?
Under normal use are they safer? I mean harpooning them is not normal usage😆 Gaz UK.
No. They can explode as well! It just takes longer until they explode. It takes longer to overcharge a LifePo4-battery!
@@user-in3br2qs8x Oh yes, I mean the battery is only as safe as the charger and any sensing circuitry on the battery. but puncturing any type of battery is still not normally expected.
Why dont use mm2