Пікірлер

• 
  @magicbytes383514 сағат бұрын

  Hello Winky, another nice video, thanks for sharing, cheers from me.😃👍👍👍👍👍

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop14 сағат бұрын

  Thanks!

• 
  @dans_Learning_Curve15 сағат бұрын

  I like it too! LoL 😂😆 If you want that chuck to run truer, you can machine the jaws in an out but stable condition. Search grinding lathe jaws or truing lathe jaws.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop14 сағат бұрын

  Yep... I've done that severa times. I need to make sure its similar at different diameters first but if it is, I need to do that

• 
  @lawrencewillard637017 сағат бұрын

  I'm old, and trying to learn/ understand lathe metal working. So, 'made' many things for my 70 year old lathe. As ability increased, 'remade' many of them. Inadvertently bought chuck with bigger hole, so watched this with pleasure . Going to make the same backing plate soon, so, thanks for this.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop16 сағат бұрын

  Thats great, maybe I should have posted a procedure to print.

• 
  @thaiexodus291618 сағат бұрын

  Pardon me for being philosophical here. Re: People saying you can't bore that out. Imagine for a brief moment the nay sayers always having their way. Innovation gets rigidly restricted to established paradigms. And what if this applied for the past 1000 years? What would the world be like today? Safe to say we wouldn't have cars. Or, or, or ........... Anyway, nice work, Even if you have compromised the integrity of that chuck which was undoubtedly made to the very highest ASME standards that the jobber shops of China rigidly adhere to. (I better check my coffee for sarcasm additives)

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop15 сағат бұрын

  Ha... I agree 100%. I've always pushed the limits within reason. I worked for a printing company most my life and there were some people that would rather live with a poorly running machine than to try making it better. The logic was that it was running and you might make it worse while attempting to fix it. As time passed we got updated machines that were much easier to run but the people that were afraid of change stayed on the old machine eagerly working the ass off to avoid change. The last 15 years before retiring I was doing an engineering job (without a degree) designing machine modifications in problem areas. It was a lot of headaches but also fun.

• 
  @Rustinox19 сағат бұрын

  Nice. I made some back plates too some time ago. It's fun to do.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop15 сағат бұрын

  It always amazes me how much much of a mess it makes. But I agree.

• 
  @kentuckytrapper78020 сағат бұрын

  Excellent job winky, great fit..

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop15 сағат бұрын

  Thank you! 🤗

• 
  @mudnducs20 сағат бұрын

  I’d not have thought of boring out a chuck!

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop15 сағат бұрын

  Older chuck had a larger bore, these Chinese chucks do not. Irritating to use after you are used to the older chucks

• 
  @ellieprice36321 сағат бұрын

  Another interesting and useful project. The first job I had as an apprentice was fitting a backing plate to a chuck. If that four jaw was mine I’d figure out how to brace the jaws and hard bore them true. Shouldn’t be too difficult with a large carbide boring bar

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop21 сағат бұрын

  Thanks, yeah I might fix the jaws, I've done that before. However, I need to mark the low jaw and see if its consistent at several diameters before I do that.

• 
  @RustyInventions-wz6ir21 сағат бұрын

  Very nice work sir

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop21 сағат бұрын

  Thanks

• 
  @ellieprice36321 сағат бұрын

  daveticehurst4191: Very true in general practice but there’s always exceptions. A hulk of cast iron that size would be ridiculously expensive and messy to machine. With custom projects you use what you have and make it work.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop21 сағат бұрын

  I prefer steel over cast. It's stronger on a threaded spindle. I've had threads fail on two checks that were cast.

• 
  @mikedyson733022 сағат бұрын

  NICE JOB, Winky.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop21 сағат бұрын

  Thanks

• 
  @johncloar169222 сағат бұрын

  Thanks for the video. Nice job.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop21 сағат бұрын

  Thanks for watching!

• 
  @alant533523 сағат бұрын

  Always a pleasure to whatch because its interesting!

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop21 сағат бұрын

  Thanks

• 
  @ThePottingShedWorkshop23 сағат бұрын

  Nice job! That plastic cover on the back I presume is just to keep the chips out. As the new backplate will do that for you, I think I'd have taken it out prior to boring out the middle and left it out. You could have made the backplate register a bit deeper then to get the chuck a hair closer to reduce the overhang.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop21 сағат бұрын

  Darn good idea sir! Thanks

• 
  @jubiletabustamanteserrano244623 сағат бұрын

  interesante este acoplamiento

• 
  @larry3064Күн бұрын

  Very cool. Thanks for sharing 👍

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop21 сағат бұрын

  You bet, thanks for watching!

• 
  @robstirling3173Күн бұрын

  How about a foam sponge with a string so you can extract it from the chuck end of the headstock? Also, try chainsaw bar oil or grease on those noisy gears.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop21 сағат бұрын

  The end of my spindle bore is 1 inch past the gear cover so no chipc coming from the bore. Thanks

• 
  @yenoh243Күн бұрын

  That turned out nice. I’ve had a couple of attempts at making a collet check. First one was fine, but the second one. Well, I couldn’t decide whether the thread was tight or the index was a thou too small and ended up trashing it! 😏 Regards Robert

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop20 сағат бұрын

  I think a collet chuck is more difficult to get right.Thanks

• 
  @jiminsequim3218Күн бұрын

  Cool project! When I made a backing plate for my 12" chuck, I used transfer screws in the chuck to mark the backing plate. I really like your lathe indexing setup. 🙂

• 
  @WinkysWorkshopКүн бұрын

  I've done the same with the transfer screw but I seem to have better luck with the indexer. Thanks

• 
  @daveticehurst4191Күн бұрын

  Winky, a Chuck Backplate should be cast iron. It is not a good idea to have steel on steel with the lathe spindle, it can gall up. I do not know of any chuck manufacturer that used steel back plates. Take care using it and add a small amount of lubrication on the spindle thread when screwing it on to be sure you can get it off again. Regards from Australia.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshopКүн бұрын

  Hello Dave, well in this case I'm going to have to disagree. All my chuck have steel back plate and have had for about 10 years. I've never had a single problem. Bison sells thread mount high strength steel plate as well. Steel is much stronger than cast and performs much better on a smaller threaded spindle. I've had threads break on cast back plates. Probably low quality plates but never the less, steel will never break.

• 
  @normesmonde533221 сағат бұрын

  Monday’s experts

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop20 сағат бұрын

  @@normesmonde5332 Generally speaking Dave has some good advice and others have said the same about cast. Cast generally has a vibration absorbing quality and in some cases it might be a better choice. However, to me, this means the cast iron has to be compressible. Years ago I had a Shars 6 inch chuck and cast back plate on my Logan and it chattered bad. I put a 3 foot x 1.5" bar in the chuck and pushed down on the bar. The chuck actually moved away from the spindle register. I replaced both with steel back plates and the chatter got substantially better and the bar test was also much better. Both a 4 jaw and 3 jaw Shars 6" backing plate failed at the threads so this may be a quality issue more than cast vs steel ALTHOUGH Bison chucks confirmed that their steel back plate were stronger. One Shars plate failed at 7 month and the other at 1 yr. Shars would NOT stand behind them and I don't hesitate to throw them under the bus. I do not buy from Shars!

• 
  @aarondean829915 сағат бұрын

  @@WinkysWorkshop It is my understanding that the backing plate should be of cast iron because when mounting and dismounting the chuck if anything should wear it would be the cast iron and not the spindle. Keep both well oiled with quality oil. Aaron from Canada

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop14 сағат бұрын

  @@aarondean8299 yeah... I can see where a tight thread might be an issue but I'm not worried about wear at all. There is usually oil on the threads and I always make sure they are fairly clean. I really don't think there is a huge difference anyway. The spindle threads are hardened steel I'm sure.

• 
  @robertcornelius3514Күн бұрын

  How deep is that final staining of the wood? Would I remove most of it if I had to go back and sand with 120 grit sand paper?

• 
  @WinkysWorkshopКүн бұрын

  I sand after fuming all the time. You will not change the color by sanding. It's about 1/32" deep. I've even run wood through the planer although I don't recommend it.

• 
  @lawrencewillard6370Күн бұрын

  Now you have a better attachment with the nut, drill a small hole through to the crosslide, to allow oil to get into where it is needed.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshopКүн бұрын

  I thought about that too but I've been giving the lead screw a shot of oil. I'm sure it is adequate. Thanks

• 
  @michaelwalker18652 күн бұрын

  Winky, I was watching one of your videos awhile back and you mentioned that you used a product that retained gib adjusting screws, I believe it was a paste. I have tried to find that video so I could order some of that product. Would be so kind to provide me with what the name of that product is? Thanks

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop2 күн бұрын

  That was a long time ago! Vibra tite VC-3 amzn.to/45cXLQ2

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop2 күн бұрын

  VC-3 Vibra tite

• 
  @ravenhhca3 күн бұрын

  Does this do left hand drills?

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop3 күн бұрын

  No it doesn't

• 
  @jubiletabustamanteserrano24463 күн бұрын

  MUCHO PESO MUCHA PRESION PARA ESAS CORREAS MAS PEQUEÑAS ASI ESTA MEJOR

• 
  @ellieprice3634 күн бұрын

  Thanks for sharing your beautifully organized shop. How in the world do you keep it so clean and new looking? Mine is semi organized with most tools in drawers or covered boxes. Everything not covered is dirty and oily but it’s the best I can do to get any work done. Love your channel so keep showing us your neat organizing tricks.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop3 күн бұрын

  I know I spend at least 50% of my shop time cleaning up. I know what you mean about the dust. The mix of oil and wood dust is not good. Around my metal lathe seems to be the worst. You might have noticed I installed a 4x8 sheet of sheet metal on the wall being my lathe. After about 6-month some of the machines don't even look restored. I take an air hose, brush and rag and go through and clean everything. It sound fanatical but after all the work of bring the machines back to near new condition I think it's worth while... maybe 2 hours invested. I think the belt grinder is about as bad as the lathe. I've considered putting a vacuum on it but sparks are a concern... and cost.

• 
  @larryschweitzer49045 күн бұрын

  I tried the "self closing" drawer cabinets. But I didn't like the extra pull it took to open the drawers. The Vevor tool box with the snap in tool slots is great for keeping things in place as a movable box but kind of a nascence in a drawer. I think I'd take a Dremel and modify the retaining nubs so the tools would be easy to remove & replace. Over the years I've torn apart & scrapped machines. I keep all the fasteners and have plastic square jars that mixed nuts came in to keep each diameter, mixed lengths. I finally bought a label printer to make for easier reading. It's been nice because the labels can be peeled off when the contents are changed. The last Harbor Frt. roll-around tool cabinet I bought has label pockets on all the drawers. I found out that Home Depot is selling some of the same stuff that Vevor sells, at exactly the same prices, including free shipping. I setup a Home Depot account that includes a 10% military discount on some items, including some Vevor stuff. Home Depot also sells through base exchanges and (some?) base exchanges don't collect sales tax. I was in the Navy during the Vietnam war. Setting up the HD discount was quick & easy. Lowes has something similar.

• 
  @RustyInventions-wz6ir6 күн бұрын

  Very nice work. I like the system. May incorporate it onto my lathe.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop5 күн бұрын

  Thanks, fairly simple too.

• 
  @router58406 күн бұрын

  I keep threaded bar and assorted tube in cut in half 4" pvc water pipe.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop6 күн бұрын

  Thats a good method although how do you get to the short pieces? I guess you could have short sections of pipe.

• 
  @router58403 күн бұрын

  @@WinkysWorkshop yes

• 
  @joemcgarry11066 күн бұрын

  My workshop looks as if a bomb went off in it.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop6 күн бұрын

  Hmmm... Maybe its about priorities? I spend about the same amount of time cleaning and organizing as I do fabricating of fixing.

• 
  @joemcgarry11066 күн бұрын

  @@WinkysWorkshop You hit the nail on the head. I am always focused on the projects. The clean-up, and organization take a back seat. I've gotten worse as I have gotten older. with limited time and energy. Maybe I will do do better in my next life. LOL

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop6 күн бұрын

  @@joemcgarry1106 I understand the age part.... I have a hard time keeping up.

• 
  @kartikaysharma45606 күн бұрын

  Hello sir, i recently watched your video on flat belt fabricating that you posted an year ago and bought myself a habasit skiving machine AT-200 if possible could please help me how do a zero point setting on it. Your help would be highly appreciated 🙏🏻

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop6 күн бұрын

  Wow, I hope you didn't pay full price. Those things are high. We had a very similar grinder at work. First install the sandpaper on the drum. Then there are black disks on each end of the drum and set screws on top of the aluminum frame. You loosen the set screw and rotate the disk (use a pin or hex key in the holes). The disk are eccentrics and will move the drum up and down. Move the lead edge of the platen under the drum and insert a couple of pieces of paper under the drum (I used card stock)move the ends of the drum up and down until you feel a drag on the paper and then snug the set screws. If you hear the drum hitting the platen when you turn the motor on back the adjustment off slightly. It needs to be close. After you grind the end of the belt you might need to trim a little fuzz on the tip.

• 
  @kartikaysharma45606 күн бұрын

  @@WinkysWorkshop sadly i had to pay the full price came out to be 3400usd with motor from habasit india. Should roller just stay slightly above above the platen or just touch the platen It works perfect for setting 1-3(probably presetted for 1-3) but doesnt grind thick belts to reveal perfectly(8-10mm of skived nylon) its nylon that need setting from 4-6. Is it possible to build my own grinder since they r expensive If you would like to share any diagrams and info for me to build one please do Thanks alot 🙏🏻

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop5 күн бұрын

  @@kartikaysharma4560 Truthfully I never read instruction on the grinder but I have used the same grinder extensively at the printing company I worked for. The last 12 to 15 years I prepared almost all the belt for 12 presses. The belt thickness ranged from .050" to .125" To answer your question, the sanding drum needs to barely touch the platen. You don't want to take metal off but if you hear it touching slightly you are where you need to be. I'm not sure I understand the problem with thick belts but some thick belts require a different approach. Usually a thinker belt has a much thicker traction layer and sometimes less core (nylon or polyamide). The result will be a smaller area of exposed nylon but you really need at least 3/4" to get a strong splice. Habasit says to use two glues, one for the nylon and the other for the rubber (Fixol and Vulcol). I have done this with good results but it requires practice and attention to detail. At the printing plant we never bothered with the rubber, we simply trimmed off the rubber at the end of the belt. It creates a little divot in the finished belt surface but the belt is just as strong. The rubber has no strength. I have no drawings for my grinder. It's made from old printing press parts. In some ways it is crude (the method for setting the angle) but overall it's made like a tank and grinds a little better and a lot faster than the Habasit grinder. It used a 60 grit 21" x 4" sanding belt instead of a drum. The belt is still the original but it has ground at least 1500 belts. Why do you need to build a grinder?

• 
  @kartikaysharma45605 күн бұрын

  @@WinkysWorkshop my father has a belt joining workshop he might need another one in future , buying another one from habasit seems expensive also it does only 200mm length he needed one for 300mm but the price for 300mm grinder from habasit was quoted at $16.8k which is absurd.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop4 күн бұрын

  @@kartikaysharma4560 300 mm is a wide belt! I saw one at the belt company that supplied the place I work. I didn't get a really good look at it but they made complex splices. Long diagonal splices that looked perfect. They had what looked like a portable belt sander on a linear rail. I think that is what you need for belt over 150 to 200 mm.

• 
  @Bob_Adkins6 күн бұрын

  My best storage solution was an inexpensive 36"W X 25" D X 36" H Hart tool chest from Wal-Mart. What made it special was the 25" length of the drawers, it holds a LOT of stuff! They pulled out much farther than most tool chest Drawers. I wanted 2 or 3 of them, but got 1 and they went out of stock forever.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop6 күн бұрын

  Wow, that would be a major plus!

• 
  @TheAyrCaveShop7 күн бұрын

  Hi Mark, I'm jealous of you organization skills my shop looks like Bubba did the organizing 🥴, well maybe not that bad. I tried those same plastic trays with the same frustration. Ended up just leaving gaps between them to stuff other tools in-between. That socket set does look very nice. 👍👍

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  Yeah... those trays are a joke. Fortunately they fit well in my Hardinge lathe cabinet drawers. The socket set is an amazing value. Some might think its bad to buy Chinese but unless you buy Snapon you are likely buying Chinese anyway. Buying directly just stops me from paying Craftsman (for example) to import and market a product.

• 
  @bob-the-Millwright7 күн бұрын

  I use a tool board on wheels. it takes up a 2' x 4' space and is 4' wide 7' tall double sided. I keep all the common tools on it all the special tools go in a cabinet. fishing tackle trays for the small parts like you have. One problem! My shop is still a mess! Love your ideas for organization and storage. hopefully after I retire, I will have time. Great video.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  the tool board is a good idea! I like it!

• 
  @angelramos-20057 күн бұрын

  Good to see everything organized,Mark.98% right is excellent to me.Thank you.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  I agree, thanks

• 
  @rayp.4547 күн бұрын

  Some great ideas. Thanks Winky!

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  You're welcome

• 
  @danhoag3737 күн бұрын

  That is very good how ever , however, how, in the name of goodness, do you remember where you hid everything

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  Speed reading labels. I'm considering pictures! Ha

• 
  @gorak90007 күн бұрын

  The only thing with those socket cases is they take up a TON of room in the drawers. If you put all those sockets on those socket rails, you could easily get that entire set into 1 drawer. That said though, I have a very similar set in a toolbox drawer, that also wastes a ton of space - but at least being in a drawer, it's not on the floor anymore!

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  No doubt the size could be reduced but I'm not sure you could make it fit in one drawer and have usable organization. I tried to do this in the old box which did not include 1/2" drive sockets. Maybe with a 3d printer....

• 
  @howardtoob7 күн бұрын

  I have the same mill. Can you please tell me how you remove the tapered tool holders? I have to beat on mine to release the taper. B&S #9.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  The B&S taper holds the mills better but it also gets stuck in the spindle. The original draw bar was self ejecting and works great. The problem is, they eventually wear out and get removed. You may have noticed a section of threads at the top of the splice. Hopefully they are not damaged. Mine were messed up but I used a thread file with the mill running and cleaned them up. Wells index will sell you the new draw bar but if I remember right it will cost you about $350. I'm cheap so I made my own. In my opinion the B&S collet is much better than the R8 but only if you have the self ejecting draw bar. Here's the video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/moFrrs6Klt2ylLQ.htmlsi=xU50Eppd-tybtvhA

• 
  @stevewilliams24987 күн бұрын

  Do you sometimes think we get more pleasure out of acquiring and organising our bits and pieces than actually using them ? I actually have 2 sets of some things like spanners. One set to use and one for "best" 🙄 I find glass jars on shelves the best for screws, washers and the like. Except for the odd breakage they are great because you can see what is in them at a glance. I have even been known to organise the food we buy especially for the right size jar. IT IS A DISEASE isn't it. Keep up the good work Winky. PS .. at 70 yrs of age I have realised I shoud be getting the pleasure out of using my "best" stuff and not leave them for the next generation. That goes for using new nails and screws as well as spanners.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  I'm not far behind you (68). I've started using the good tools. In fact I just gave my brother in law the old box full of old (but good) tools. Yeah I enjoy the old tools with high quality. Sometimes I think about all the old machines I have and the time and money I have invested in my shop. Is it worth it? Probably NOT. However, simply being able to make a part when you need it is amazing. For me, invested $20K in the shop is worth being able to make a $50 part. Its hard to say what I actually invested in the shop but it's likely more than I think.

• 
  @65cj557 күн бұрын

  They're decent tools Winky, i got the same set for in the Van when i travel.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  I agree... amazing value

• 
  @robert5747 күн бұрын

  The clear plastic 35mm film canisters will fit perfectly in those fishing lure boxes for small loose parts that want to migrate under the dividers. I've wondered if a legal size filing cabinet would let you stack rows of those boxes on their edge front to back. They have good bearings.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  35mm film canisters? Whats that? I'm kidding but I don't see them around much

• 
  @robert5744 күн бұрын

  @@WinkysWorkshop The 35mm plastic cans popped up on ebay when I was looking for small containers for the boxes. You used to see the black cans with the gray lid, but there were a lot of the clear ones for sale. Also found some condiment containers, but the lids don't stay on. Our local HF sold those lure boxes for $2 ea and I bought a few cases. They are kinda pricey now. The ones you got have the black latches and mine are molded on. A few have one broken off now (sigh). I bought a used file cabinet with the long drawers and stacked them on edge left to right. The rack you made is handy since you can see them all at once.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop4 күн бұрын

  @@robert574 I've had good luck with the trays I bought but they are high priced amzn.to/3KzrWHz

• 
  @robert5744 күн бұрын

  @@WinkysWorkshop It's definitely an investment when you need a bunch of them. You know those metal racks that pull out that have 4 metal parts boxes in them (like at the auto parts store)? Back after 2000 (when everything was for sale) a company on ebay sold a bunch of them for $50 ea, new with free shipping. I bought 6. A guy around the corner worked at a boat manufacturer and had 25lb boxes of new stainless hardware (floor sweepings) of everything you can think of. I did some trading and got a few. Just had to pour it out on trays, wash the fiberglass dust out and sort it into piles. It's all SAE. Those boxes are full of them.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop3 күн бұрын

  @@robert574 Wow that sounds like a good deal! It's hard to bring myself to buy expensive storage like those KastKing storage trays. I guess I have $130 total into them. At one point I just made the decision that I wanted the connivance. I guess it's hard to justify the expense of most shops my size. I like to think I do enough work in my shop to break even but I'm not sure I do. Heck, the contents of all those trays probably has $1,000 in parts. Before I retired I had the company discount at Fastenal and I filled them with shoulder bolts and socket heads screws from 6-32 to 3/8. Also set screw. I think most the shoulder bolts were bought as scrap but man those socket head screws add up quick.

• 
  @robert5747 күн бұрын

  Years ago, we used to have a vacuum forming machine to make custom trays (with shapes if you wanted). I had forgotten about it. It worked pretty good, but on deep stuff you would get a web at the corners. You had to make a "half" block to form part way and then use the finished block (like a casting pattern). I wonder why you don't ever see that anymore. It could form some fairly thick plastic sheet. Ha, that's probably how that Vevor tray is made. I like your wooden ones better though.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  I remember seeing the vacuum forming machines. If I remember right they used very hot air to heat the plastic and then sucked it down over the form

• 
  @gorak90007 күн бұрын

  @@WinkysWorkshop Some use hot air, some use heating elements, and some use IR lamps (basically halogen bulbs), but they all essentially do the same thing

• 
  @terrycannon5707 күн бұрын

  Mark I hope someone from Harbor Freight or Amazon gets to see this video. You are not the only one who gets frustrated with the sixe of the tool organizer trays . the size of tool box drawers are not a secret but as you have shown they never sell the trays that will fit inside the drawers without wasting valuable space inside the drawers. About 25 years ago I bought some Craftsman Professional series open/box wrenches. The plastic trays are still in the drawers of my boxes. I drilled holes from the back side of the trays and squirted foam inside them and over night they were hard as concrete. It keeps my wrenches in order and I rarely do not put my tools back because I can at a glance tell if there is one missing. I think men should have extra years added to their life to compensate for the time spent searching for the tool they need. lol.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  Haha... I like the extra year comment. How often do you open the wrong drawer?

• 
  @terrycannon5707 күн бұрын

  @@WinkysWorkshop Is always the correct number of times. LOL

• 
  @robert5747 күн бұрын

  Pretty cool. Yep, that goes here, and this goes there... Where are the pliers? They're always right here.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  That is a goal - Hopefully it works out. For sure it will be better than the old box!

• 
  @magicbytes38357 күн бұрын

  Hello Winky, I really enjoyed watching this video, you have an awesome workshop, lots of hand tools and machines, thanks for sharing with us, cheers from me. 😃 👍👍👍👍👍

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  Always good to hear from you, Thanks!

• 
  @transmitterguy4787 күн бұрын

  Hey Mark, install ball-bearing slides on the old box.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  I gave to my bro in law. From what I understand, their are upgrades available now but just installing a random slide would be a lot of work.

• 
  @tomnielsen36617 күн бұрын

  Not a big deal, but the name is Vvor spelled Vevor. I also like a lot of things that they sell.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  I asked the company and they said I was saying it correctly but they also said either way was fine.

• 
  @tomnielsen36617 күн бұрын

  @@WinkysWorkshop I guess I better go back and listen to how you say it, so that I say it correctly. Thank you for the reply.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  @@tomnielsen3661 Honestly Vevor implied that they really didn't care and at least half the population says "V ee V or"

• 
  @aceroadholder21857 күн бұрын

  King Dick to Vevor: "Hold my beer!" A friend back in the 80s had a king Dick socket set that had inch, metric, and Whitworth sockets in the case.

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  ha... interesting. This seems to be a great set.

• 
  @gorak90007 күн бұрын

  I've seen the King Dick wrenches make an appearance on AvE's channel several times - at least back when he actually made videos. I have a similar socket set branded Mastercraft Maximum (Canadian Tire store brand) that's both metric and imperial, has 1/4 3/8 and 1/2 drive, and has some hex and torx sockets as well, as well as some open and box end wrenches in both imperial and metric. It's a very good quality set, and I think my dad said it was $100 CAD (aka probably 70 USD) back when he got it for me for christmas many years ago. But to still be able to get a set like that now with 20 years of inflation for a similar price is pretty good

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  @@gorak9000 Yeah, this set is a great value. I've used it a couple time and it worked nicely. I think the only minor complaint I have is that a few of the tools are too tight in the case but I suspect they will loosen over time.

• 
  @treepop15507 күн бұрын

  What are you going to do with all of the extra time you will have now that you don't have to close your drawers the whole way closed ?? Jk,lol !!

• 
  @WinkysWorkshop7 күн бұрын

  Ha... I agree, a silly aspect. Although, it does cushion the drawer if you slam it shut. Seeing as how they are so easy to move this is probably a plus.