Пікірлер

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  @monstah408Ай бұрын

  I had set with feeler gauge and rolled with it cause I don't no where is my dwell meter I have the fluke 88v and did the 40% on 60% off and can feel the better response, thanks for the video

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  @ClaytheBMXerАй бұрын

  Comments like this are why I post videos! Glad to hear that! A few months ago I stopped to compare this method to a dwell meter and it was pretty spot on. Thanks for the comment!

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  @monstah408Ай бұрын

  @@ClaytheBMXerI wa pretty close on buying a dwell meter hahaha until I saw this video, I will measure gap to see where it is at now, I'll update in a few days , just want to see how far from the gap spec

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  @robpaul7900Ай бұрын

  Your notches on the bushings were lined up with case notches?

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  @papergatorzfedducca7998Ай бұрын

  We need some more 4l60e videos bro!!😂😂😂

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  @rubberbandman2540Ай бұрын

  Hey mate going through this on a 4l60e ls1 holden commodore bush fitted 2 wide bushes removed both thinking maybe i made a mistake to realise that this is the sun gear is one of the later ones ill try this and see how she goes

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  @ClaytheBMXerАй бұрын

  It's been awhile, but IIRC you might also be able to use 2 skinnies? I think I was just short on time, but a lot of information has passed through my head since I did this haha. There might be more information in my thread on LS1Tech titled "Low Mileage 4L60E Carnage! Rebuild with Upgrades. Pictures! Some advice?" I tried to address all the problems I couldn't find simple answers to there, and one of the last posts has a document with links to all the forum posts I bookmarked and manuals and such. Let us know how it goes! Good luck!

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  @rubberbandman2540Ай бұрын

  cheers mate and ill update you on my progress 17 year mechanic first auto rebuild built diffs engines etc never and auto so its been fun so far learning but heaps of small obstacles put part of the process i guess i got the sun gear to be a snug fit goes up and down easy and has no play so im hoping it will be ok but i may take it to a auto repair shop i deal with and ask the builder to double check that for me

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  @ClaytheBMXerАй бұрын

  @@rubberbandman2540 This was the first I did on my own as well. I helped with a couple other rebuilds and played with torn down units in school, but this one I actually worked through start to finish and did all my own research on. My goal was to learn and understand as much as possible and build a reliable, quick shifting, and somewhat simplified unit. Most of my time was in understanding function and purpose and hydraulic circuits (especially the ones I modified or considered modifying). Information on some of the clutch stack clearances was also missing (apparently because it's not super critical in some places), so I made some notes on that too. I had trouble with a few of the bushings - without being in the rebuild industry and having inventory of all the different little bushings and such, it's kind of a PITA to figure out! If you learn anything new that I can add to the description or to my posts, please let me know! It might save the next of us. Hope it goes well for you, and have fun!

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  @rubberbandman2540Ай бұрын

  @@ClaytheBMXer bloody oath bro here in australia its a very gaurded industry and hard to learn off someone in the flesh so next best thing is youtube and the net and yeah been doing cars for long time but never got to do autos and my daily slash street strip car she goes 11.80s @116 mile stock head ls1 241 5.7litre ls6 inlet headers twin 2.5 inch exhaust makes 280rwkw and 700 nm or torque 3800 pounds 4 door sedan holden commodore vz 2005 model and she has the trusty old 4l60e in here with a stage 2 hd2 transgo and the usaul upgrades and recently going out racing and having fun i lost engine braking possibly over run clutches worn and now starting to slip first gear and feeling band chatter sometimes on 2nd gear shift 3-4 is still bullet proof so im building one i bought 100 dollars and then fit that and rebuild/refresh my current one that needs some clutches and ill change the forward sprag again and see how she goes been in the car for 3,5 years of hard driving street duties on hero 235 drag radials launchs all the time hot laps at the track so no complaints on how longs shes lasted if i drove it nicer and less aggresive that auto would have lasted at least 7 years i rekon... cheers for your reply its nice to chat to people that like me are always trying to learn and improve ourselfs as car guys /men/orwomen out here

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  @rubberbandman2540Ай бұрын

  and yeah those bloody bushes did my head in lol and that sun gear how i have the smaller inner race by 50 thou or watever looking at it you cant tell so annoying :)

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  @jchaire36223 ай бұрын

  What do you set your clearance on your clutch packs 3-4, forward, reverse input drum....ect?

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  @ClaytheBMXer3 ай бұрын

  I used numbers based on others' recommendations. You can see the specifics in my thread on LS1Tech "high mileage 4l60e carnage..."

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  @tonyfry65313 ай бұрын

  Great video, I am in the home stretch, Just wondering about the timing cover. How did you put sealant on it and NOT mess it up installing in back in.

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  @ClaytheBMXer3 ай бұрын

  Do a dry run or two first. The only other thing that's key is having someone else with some dexterity to help you! Good luck to you, sir!

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  @franciscolugo20224 ай бұрын

  Where exactly is this wire at

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  @ClaytheBMXer3 ай бұрын

  Copy and pasted from an earlier comment: "I showed exactly where it was at 2:08 in the video, as well as describing where it was and showing the labeling on the diagram earlier in the video! I even showed where the wires broke off of the eyelet immediately after showing where it's bolted on to the engine" I hope this helps you!

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  @ClaytheBMXer3 ай бұрын

  Here, also, is my comment to another person who mentioned they still had trouble finding it: "It's at the right rear of the engine, meaning as if you were sitting in the car, so passenger side. If I recall correctly, it's hard to see without a mirror."

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  @thomascrown4934 ай бұрын

  I'm just now finding out after 4 bushings that they're not for 2004 models. How has your trans held up so far after modifying the bushing? Any Unusual noises?

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  @ClaytheBMXer4 ай бұрын

  As far as I can tell, I've had no issues due to this in the several thousand miles I've gone.

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  @speedfreak11617 ай бұрын

  Allot of work to bloke it off , you just need to stack two pistons back to back with 3 shims so the piston sits level to the top and bingo blocked

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  @ClaytheBMXer7 ай бұрын

  I believe it's worth the reliability upgrade of continuous lubrication.

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  @joshuarivera76227 ай бұрын

  Did u leave out the one check ball in case?

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  @ClaytheBMXer7 ай бұрын

  If I recall correctly, I put it back in, but it does not matter either way. I believe I said in my post on LS1Tech, Low Mileage 4L60E Carnage... I will also add that 4th gear is definitely not too harsh. I kept the feed hole stock size, and I could have gone a little bigger.

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  @johnny4713ify8 ай бұрын

  About to do this on 2008 Acadia. Im original owner have over 135K. No check engine lights and this will be it's first timing chain job. The only real reason I'm doing it is because the timing cover started to leak. I change my oil every 3000 so the engine has been good. My questions is what RTV did you use and did you put new sprokets. I was going to get a Cloyes kit, but I've seen and read lots of chains busting at under 5K in the last few years. I believe they are no longer making them in the states so most kits now say made in China SMH. I'm just going to get OEM chains instead. Tx

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  @ClaytheBMXer8 ай бұрын

  Wow, hadn't yet heard that about Cloyes. What a shame. I just had a bunch of bad Moog parts recently too. If I recall correctly, I used the part number for the sealant that's recommended by GM, which I believe is in one of my other comments here. But I wouldn't hesitate to use just permatex RTV or something good like Honda/Threebond either. I didn't do the actuators, as I was really suspecting just a chain issue. However, I have heard of a lot failing and seen a few. I wouldn't be surprised if it was more common on the earlier years, but I'm not sure on that. I doubt it would hurt to do them, but that's something I'd definitely go with OE on as well if I did anything. For me, it would probably come down to cost. You might want to check for any info or TSBs regarding certain years or one or intake/exhaust being more or less common. Hope it all goes as smoothly as possible for you!

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  @ClaytheBMXer8 ай бұрын

  Also, and I don't want to jinx you, but my understanding is that those early years had other issues: front and rear evaporators, transmission failure... right as everyone's quality dropped with the housing crash, plus early models are always a crapshoot. Just wanted to mention that in case it influences how much time and money you put into it and weren't aware!

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  @johnny4713ify8 ай бұрын

  @@ClaytheBMXer Well I take good care of it maintenance wise. I change all the fluids early (Only use Full synthetic) so maybe that helped it last so long. Yes I've heard of all those problems including the 07-08 vs 09 and beyond engine minor update tweaks to the engine. The only components that have gone out is the powersteering pump, motor mount, one coil pack and the radiator developed a small leak near the fill elbow this year. Not bad for a 15 year plus vehicle I live in Southern California Desert area in 110-120 plus weather 4 months outta the year 😅 I replaced everything myself so saved 💰. Other than that she still runs mint. I'm getting the OE kit from Rockauto. I'm doing the job myself so it's only costing me the parts. I was bummed too that Cloyes QC has gone down. From reading reviews to commenters and videos online not going to take that hit or miss chance. Did you use Ultra Black RTV and did you change your sprockets?

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  @HALF-ACRE20148 ай бұрын

  P0017 doesn't mean stretched chain. You probably just needed to replace the cam sensor.

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  @ClaytheBMXer8 ай бұрын

  Incorrect. This is a correlation code, not a circuit fault.

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  @HALF-ACRE20148 ай бұрын

  @@ClaytheBMXer if that's the case I'm selling my car lol

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  @ClaytheBMXer8 ай бұрын

  @@HALF-ACRE2014 I wouldn't blame you at all! Good luck to you! I see lots of confusion between CMP circuit faults, performance faults, and cam-crank correlation faults. The same goes for things like catalytic converter efficiency codes being mistaken for "O2 codes" (this actually means the sensor is working). It's always worth reading all of the published information on a code - set criteria, possible causes, action taken when set, even skimming through the trouble tree that's usually terrible can help your understanding of a code and how to resolve it! There are even DIY versions of things like mitchell/prodemand that are worth it for tackling certain problems! The internet is great, but question everything - even me! It helps to have a diagnostician on speed dial too, but that's not always feasible Haha.

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  @ClaytheBMXer8 ай бұрын

  @@HALF-ACRE2014 I should add that the 100% correct way to diagnose the issue is to hook up an oscilloscope and compare waveforms with known-good captures. However, it's also not always completely necessary.

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  @martysheets68829 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the Help Brother.

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  @drewholiday89559 ай бұрын

  Ran I to a similar situation, do both ball joints bolt into the spindle the same way?

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  @richardeddings725910 ай бұрын

  I removed my old bushing and put it in the same way, but none of my notches matchup for my oil calories should just be a concern

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  @advancedleveldiagnostics10 ай бұрын

  Nice Catch!

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  @kennethchoyce818610 ай бұрын

  Yea until you see that puddle of oil after smudging RTV putting timing cover in 😂

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  @stevenfierro543911 ай бұрын

  Can yiu list the full P/N for the longer shaft ball joint. I don’t find any with the mention 623

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  @ClaytheBMXer11 ай бұрын

  You can see them on the page at 4:47 in the video. They are listed as "wheel suspension joint". Hope this helps!

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  @WrenchHead11 ай бұрын

  I too bought that sonnax shim, and said wtf? Anyhow, i believe it fit perfectly under the Torrington bearing on the rear planetary set. I only installed one shim, and it landed me in the middle of specs.

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  @papergatorzfedducca7998 Жыл бұрын

  New subscriber bro🔥🔥🔥🔥

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  @randy1ization Жыл бұрын

  the reason air is coming out of the other hole in the pump is because pressure is also sent to the low/reverse clutch piston in the bottom of the case. u need both for reverse. u need hydraulic pressure to the reverse clutch housing, and the low reverse piston and clutches at the same time... the low reverse clutch housing in the bottom of the trasnsmission case has 2 roles,. it holds the clutches in reverse, and acts as an engine break clutch in low 1 . The boost valve acts as a restrictor to build up line pressure in the circuit.

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  @TAShannon1 Жыл бұрын

  Thank you very much for this. Currently building a 4l60e with approx $4500 worth of parts and it has been a pain... All of these new/upgraded parts cause major incompatibility issues with other parts. The process is similar to a nuclear fission reaction in terms of the compounding effect of the problems. My original output end play was 60 thousandths, and input end play was 49 thou. I used the sonnax reaction shell, reaction shaft and front 6 pinion planetary. I took the trans back apart enough to pull the output and remove the reaction shell/sun gear. I reassembled using the included Sonnax shim this time, and went from a #69 input shim to a #71. Now I have zero input endplay (turns properly), and 45 thou on my output shaft... The math doesn't even add up so now I'm at a pretty major loss. I even got walked through the process by a Sonnax technician over the phone to make sure my stack-up was correct, which it was. What made me suspicious was the sonnax instructions that ask to ditch the plastic thrust washer as well as the 4-tab copper thrust washer inside the shell. They reaffirmed this to me. I am a performance manual builder but this is admittedly my first 4l60e. Now that I have watched your video I will go back to it tonight with a different approach. Thanks again for the intuitive and in-depth view into this subject. It has changed my perception on how to approach this. I know that you're a diy guy, but I can tell that you would be a very good builder if you ever decided to do this for a living. Very thorough and you put forth considerable effort into actually understanding the parts and how/why they work together. Most other builders in my area lack the discipline, care, or plainly their mental capacities to broaden their level of understanding. They are just glorified broken part replacers. Anyhow, wish me luck!

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  @lolly8546 Жыл бұрын

  I just did this on my Camaro my tensioners are not spitting oil just seeping

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  @mauricioquintero7199 Жыл бұрын

  Men you Are Awesome better than GM Tech ., thanks for being sharing , I couldn’t figure out., but now I’m going to finish my Transmission, thumbs up 👍

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  @user-zh9hu8mf5u Жыл бұрын

  As we can see (usermanual.wiki/Sonnax/7740610In.1760135194.pdf ), sonnax 77406-10 is made to reduce rear endplay. If i understand correctly, it-is movement on 13:13 in your video. But how we have to measure it? I don't find any instructions

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  @user-zh9hu8mf5u Жыл бұрын

  Sorry, I was wrong. It will reduce total endplay

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  @user-zh9hu8mf5u Жыл бұрын

  Hi! Can you tell some more information about your metered otifice? Where can I can get one. Maybe you can say diametres and other sizes?

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  @opie7afe9 күн бұрын

  Its 35 thousandths fill a pipe nipple with epoxy and drill a hole

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  @russellstephan6844 Жыл бұрын

  Very nice! Thanks for sharing!

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  @danielguerra626 Жыл бұрын

  What do you use to remove bushings?

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  @ClaytheBMXer Жыл бұрын

  I use driver set shown in the video wherever possible. When it is not possible to use the driver, I have very carefully used a carbide cutting tool in a 1/4" die grinder to weaken the wall, then a screwdriver or chisel carefully to implode it

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  @ClaytheBMXer Жыл бұрын

  If I didn't mention, the bushing driver set is all over amazon under different brand names. I think I paid about 55

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  @TBD3.0 Жыл бұрын

  excellent advice

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  @TBD3.0 Жыл бұрын

  I agree I'm in the process of making one for myself.👍🏻

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  @TBD3.0 Жыл бұрын

  Fantastic explanation easy to understand 👍🏻

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  @ClaytheBMXer Жыл бұрын

  Thank you!

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  @russellmckane7863 Жыл бұрын

  Just use an open end wrench on the square end. With a little bit of "feel" you can push on the tap to counteract the downward torque of the wrench. Try in a piece of scrap aluminum to get the feel. Sometimes you don't have the right tool and have to make do with what you have.

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  @ClaytheBMXer Жыл бұрын

  I have done this before. I hate it! But it works in a pinch for sure! I'm sure with some practice, you can be quite confident in this method despite it being non-ideal. Thanks for sharing your experience!

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  @klumsytone Жыл бұрын

  What did you end up doing?

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  @ClaytheBMXer Жыл бұрын

  Sorry, I put it in the description but I know it's not often checked. I reused the bushing that was in it. It still fit tight, and the clearance was perfect! I never found a part number!

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  @shadowopsairman15834 ай бұрын

  ​@@ClaytheBMXeryou could have contacted sonnax with the clearance

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  @guitardave3028 Жыл бұрын

  I agree..not too much help from KZread on all it takes...im not great with organizing parts...but if ya just have lots of time, great perseverance it can be done...lots of research on KZread researching available subjects on certain things like just removing valve covers or replacing motor mounts etc..plenty of videos on timing chains, while up on bench made that part easy...its all the other stuff that goes along with it that is quite tedious....my hats off to anyone with the guts to tackle this job without a garage and equipment like power ratchets and stuff to make bolt removal easy..all those bolts that have plastic inserts that have to be wrenched a ll the way out instead of broken loose and finished up by hand can be especially tedious for a man that turned 68 yesterday...oorah!

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  @kostasmichalopoulos7712 Жыл бұрын

  If I Have subscription to autoauth do I still need a 12 + 8 cable?

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  @ClaytheBMXer Жыл бұрын

  No, you just need to have it set up on your scan tool and have a good internet connection.

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  @dwreed63 Жыл бұрын

  I did this job on a 2010 Lacrosse with the engine in place, saved around $2,000. Turned out great, but holy crap it was TOUGH. Congrats on your success 👍👌💪👊

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  @wildwoodtop Жыл бұрын

  Sir could you be so kind to convey if cylinder number 1 is top dead center at stage 2 position or stage 1. Thank you 🙂

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  @lewisfalls7929 Жыл бұрын

  will it give you a code or just frag the engine

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  @randy1ization Жыл бұрын

  I think the bearing location may determine how far the rear output shaft can go into the assembly.. too little and you cant get your snap ring on? this is the problem im having.. the groove is not sticking out far enough,,, im abt 2 mm short./

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  @ClaytheBMXer Жыл бұрын

  I don't believe the bushing should affect this, since the rear planetary hub rests on the torrington bearing. One exception might be (and I don't have the parts in front of me so I'm not sure this is even possible) if the bushing was sitting too far forward and stopping the hub from seating on the bearing? I found a couple of good articles about this issue, but I don't recall where they all were. I believe transmission digest had a good one. There's also a lot of good info on the LS1tech forums about the 4L60E. That's where I found out about the different front reaction shafts and setups. You might try googling "[search query] ls1tech". Let me know if you don't come up with anything and I will look through my bookmarks after work.

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  @randy1ization Жыл бұрын

  @@ClaytheBMXer I took it apart and the output hub thrust bearing was shattered.. im thinking I may have got the bearings mixed up and while "tapping " on the output shaft, I destroyed the bearing,, so back to the drawing board. so far, we have around 1300 bucks in rebuild parts for this 93 4l60 E .. learning transmission repair aint cheap. haeven with a very comprehensvie video, a factory service manual for the trans, a very high IQ and a long mechanical background, its still possible to screw these things up. ha

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  @randy1ization Жыл бұрын

  @@ClaytheBMXer we put a bearing in the wrong spot, we put the largest bearing in first. the one that goes between the reaction hub and planetary gears. .thats the cost of learning.,,

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  @ClaytheBMXer Жыл бұрын

  @@randy1ization sorry, never saw the notification for your first reply! Glad you got her figured out. And totally agree. I had a cost figured and that's out the window for me now. I stopped counting. This one had exploding gears though, ha. It's not quite as intimidating as I once thought, but it's still a fairly daunting task. Every little tiny part and clearance feels like the most important one!

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  @randy1ization Жыл бұрын

  @@ClaytheBMXer legitimate trans shops near me want 2600 to 3200 to rebuild one,, my neighbor has one done in an f150 and it lasted abt a month. I think there a very few ace trans builders left out there. I figured if I did it myself, it would be done right. I bought a core trans to rebuild next, and will sell it, hopefully recouping some money. then I will do an A500 in my 89 dakota shelby, truck. teaching a valuable skill to my son as well., we bought the deluxe ultra series vids from jimmy.,

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  @rumbajunior6991 Жыл бұрын

  what sights are those 🤷🏻‍♂️

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  @ManuelRamirez-od7tm Жыл бұрын

  I just did, that job was a challenge, not easy to be a mechanic

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  @miseryparty3726 Жыл бұрын

  These are harder to work on than my Mercedes lol

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  @robertskorich6023 Жыл бұрын

  im trying to work on my 08 chevy impala but nothing is on here for that car and what did u have to remove to get to the timing chain access cover

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  @wayneschenk5512 Жыл бұрын

  Wow I must be lucky 2005 engine No codes yet for the timing chains but I do three to four oil changes a year.

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  @chrisstromberg6527 Жыл бұрын

  Can we get an update on the Cloyes timing chain, any issues 4 years later?

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  @ClaytheBMXer Жыл бұрын

  Zero issues until vehicle was totaled in a traffic accident about a year ago. It only got around 15-20k miles put on it though. I have since used Cloyes on a couple of other vehicles with no issues as of yet. I have only heard good things from others. Unfortunately though, I don't have any data beyond anecdotal.

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  @magotboy Жыл бұрын

  i've been looking. about to do this in my acadia and don't have a way to pull the engine. Looks like its just Time, Organization and patience. Thanks for the video

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  @tyronejennings7703 Жыл бұрын

  i've gone thru so many different kinds/brands of sight pushers but i always resort back to using a rubber mallet. it's the easiest and most effective way imo. just use a rubber mallet. it will not damage your sight and will take less than a minute. i've spent hundreds on different brands of sight pushers but none of them beats using a rubber mallet!

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  @ClaytheBMXer Жыл бұрын

  Nice! If it works and it's cheap and easy, why spend more, right?! The ones I've done would not have moved with just rubber, but the nylon punch works great for me!

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  @hermesrangel62512 жыл бұрын

  Disculpe amigo cómo quitó esa tapa de la camioneta cactiva que no encuentro como sacarla la que va x la cadenilla

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  @roberthoffman71302 жыл бұрын

  Just finished an 09 Enclave with stretched chains... absolutely the worst job I've done in years...I would probably smack the shit outa the engineer who designed this F in POS....unreal job to do in the car. Next time I'll just lite the mother fer on fire before I would ever do it again.... 🖕GM

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  @marcelgrundmann95392 жыл бұрын

  Marcel Grundmann 0 seconds ago Its true, breathing is a problem, so solution is...drill trough the pcv valve (4mm) on the right rockercover ( remove it before you do it!) remove the plastic hose with the t piece connecting the pcv to the plenum chamber. remove the lh rockercover breather going to the air intake. Now slowly heat up the plastic hose at the t piece and remove the t piece. Rh Rockercover back on. clip the hose back on the drilled out pcv connector, use a silicone hose piece and the old plastic hose to extend the pcv hose with the original removed plastic hose, it routes along the back of the engine just like before, just no t piece, ending up parallel to rh rockercover breather, cut rh rockercover breather and fit with careful heat the t piece, connect hose back to air intake . clip it all back into the hose supports. block the plenum chamber inlets, done.... no more breathing problems, looks factory, cant tell the difference, huge difference in engine cleanliness, however the throttle body does get a bit dirty over time and should just be wiped out every second service, these engine always consume some oil, checks and regular services are a must.... any questions or pictures contact Boat and Bumper.... Humpty doo..... hope that helps