Пікірлер

• 
  @user-te1dq8bz8w5 күн бұрын

  can i use vinyl ester as a resin while second layup of chopped strand mat

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  @ecfibreglassuk4 күн бұрын

  we would only recommend using the materials mentioned for this application. if using a vinylester gelcoat then you can use vinyl ester resin.

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  @ConfusedReindeer-kf2yn9 күн бұрын

  How do I get the chemical

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  @ecfibreglassuk8 күн бұрын

  HI, you will have to google 2 part rigid polyurethane foam suppliers in your country. if however you reside in the UK we can supply. Kind rgds Martin

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  @rim-om8yw9 күн бұрын

  Thanks for your tip's❤ from sri lanka 🇱🇰

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  @THIAUDI12 күн бұрын

  So much for helping me overcome this suffering! I'm from Brazil!

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  @Kiranthaus17 күн бұрын

  Get a closed container big enough for the brushes to stand inside then place a glass inside nd fill half way with acetone then put the brushes inside after wiping as much resin as u can with a old cloth and then close the lid on the container till u next need to use the brush. Leave it somewhere u wont get direct sunlight and make the container is air tight. Take the brush out nd dry it with a cloth nd leave it for 2 mins for the acetone to dry out nd use it. The brush will feel like brand new every time

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  @dancoleman126918 күн бұрын

  Excellent, excellent, excellent instruction. Thank you!

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  @toupsclassroomtoupsclassro955728 күн бұрын

  how do you know if it is bwn yellow or black you need?

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  @ecfibreglassuk26 күн бұрын

  HI, you will just need to play around with the colour back and forth, start with small sample amount. Ideally you need a bit of an artist eye for colour mixing too.

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  @martybulbul871529 күн бұрын

  Hi I’m in the process of restoring my boat and want to repaint it… my question is after gelcoating some fibreglass patch ups that I have done can a apply flowcoat over the whole boat after lightly sanding it? Looking forward to any advise thank you

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  @ecfibreglassuk26 күн бұрын

  Hi, rubbing down flowcoat can be quite difficult so I wouldn't like to do a full hull. If it required fairing you may be best off doing this with epoxy mixed with a fairing powder such as west system epoxy mixed with 407 filler. skim the area, sand when cured then apply a further 2-3 coats of epoxy and leave to cure before priming and painting. but also seek advice from a professional boat builder/restorer first. As apart from having some knowledge on boat repairs our main background is in GRP moulding rather than boat restoration so our advice is limited on this.

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  @DavidMalenczakАй бұрын

  So is it recommended to have a bit of air circulation like a desk fan blowing across the part? No heat just air moving.

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  @ecfibreglassukАй бұрын

  This is one method purely to help release the styrene from the deepest parts of a mould, it doesnt have to be a fan you can even fan it now and then during curing with just a peice of card or simply turn the mould on its side to let the styrene vapours out. This is because styrene is heavier than air and will lie low on moulds slowing down the cure. In terms of temperature it is best to work between 15 and 20 degC and avoid direct heat on the mould has this can create other issues such as hotspots leading to severe shrinkage and pre-releasing which can cause indentations in the final part.

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  @mohammedabo-riyash866Ай бұрын

  Thank you very much, sir. I've faced this problem myself and till before this video, I couldn't have figured out why this happens. We've searched and searched for days and never got the answer. Appreciate this video.

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  @ecfibreglassukАй бұрын

  Thank you

• 
  @zellalmohammed406Ай бұрын

  Thank you ❤

• 
  @user-dj2hg5mb3hАй бұрын

  Hello, I have an urgent question. If I want the material to appear exactly like a flexible sponge with many holes and not stick together, should I use polyurethane foam part 1 only?

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  @ecfibreglassukАй бұрын

  HI For a flexible foam or sponge you will need a different type of foam altogether. some foams are specifically designed to be flexible or spongy when cured. This one is purely designed to be rigid and reducing mixes of one part will only prevent it from curing. Kind regards.

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  @BeatenRustBucketsАй бұрын

  Honestly this is more of a ideal conditions situation. With gell I have sprayed it as low as 10 deg F on multiple days with no issues at all and even colder with resin when laying up. You may have been better off giving a sliding scale showing MEK percentages verses temp and humidity if you really want to help out people and how having wax added to the resin will change the curing rate. All in all I get what you were trying to do this is just my 2 cents on what could help out with some more real world applications.

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  @ecfibreglassukАй бұрын

  I totally agree with you and I appreciate your feedback . Most manufacturer's material data sheets suggest temperatures should be at least 18-20 °C with a minimum 2% catalyst. Some users will push the boundaries, and I admit I have done that myself, such as increasing catalyst and even stealing my wife's hairdryer to encourage laminates to cure in my cold shed at home😁 , and I've very rarely had any issues apart from the odd pre-release marks at times from too much direct heat or curing too fast causing shrinkage. Although, if you do work outside the recommended parameters and the moulding pops out with defects, then you have no quarrel or cause to complain to the supplier or manufacturer of the material even if you have got away with it previously in the same cold conditions. As a responsible distributor of our suppliers’ materials, we can only demonstrate how to use these materials as intended and recommended by the material manufacturers guidelines. Customers are more than welcome to experiment with extra catalysts and methods outside of our advised recommendations as i have done in the past, but it is at their own risk.

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  @monkeybase01Ай бұрын

  This has been my biggest frustration. Very informative!! Thank you for explaining the reason why this happens! :)

• 
  @ecfibreglassukАй бұрын

  You're welcome!

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  @cruxdevill9127Ай бұрын

  What is the measured amount I would use of hydrocal 30 to fill a bust mold?

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  @ecfibreglassukАй бұрын

  i'm not familiar with hydrocal 30 we went though approx 7-8ltrs of mixed plaster for this bust and saved on more plaster around the shoulders by using plaster bandage. It would be best to pre-fill the mould with water and quickly tip this out and measure that volume of water. This will give you a rough idea of how much mixed product it will take to fill the mould.

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  @MustardTigerFan42Ай бұрын

  Can I make my wife this way

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  @teaacustardcream2868Ай бұрын

  Hi could I ask is natural latex or prevulcanised better for casting?

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  @ecfibreglassukАй бұрын

  Hi Unfortunately we are not familiar with the prevulcanised we have never compared them.

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  @Carbodon69Ай бұрын

  I have a question, give me some advice. I made 2 15 x 30 inch molds from some windows that go on the roof of a McLaren car. The customer removed them and gave them to me to build a mold to be able to make them in carbon fiber. This is the one. Procedure I used, tell me where the error is, first I cut the cardboard and glue it around the glass, leaving it 2 inches away, then I sealed all the gaps with plasticine, then I applied 3 coats of PVA mold releace, I let it dry very well, then I applied 3 coats of gealcoat. orange that I bought it at compositive envision, it was one coat for every 25 minutes of gaelcoat. Then, when it is tacky, I applied 6 sheets of glass fiber and 6 of polyester fiber glass resin. 15 minutes between each coat of resin for each sheet of fiberglass glass. I let it dry overnight. The next day I took it out into the sun so it could dry much better. My 2 molds got twisted, one of them got some cracks. I repaired them but both parts got twisted. Any recommendation you can give me, is my . first time making molds I spent 400 dollars of material amd i fee a little stressed I work alot with carbon fiber but is my first time making molds

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  @ecfibreglassukАй бұрын

  Hi, if using a general purpose resin with fibreglass never apply more than 3 layers at any one time otherwise the laminate will get how as it cures due to an exothermic reaction in the resin. this heat buildup can then cause warping. also the UV exposure especially on a hot day can act as an accelerator speed up the reaction of the resin further and adding to heat build-up. you also need a good solid stiff former/plug (the part you are moulding from) if the former has any flex then it can't resist any shrinkage that your mould will go through as it cures allowing the mould to twist and distort freely pulling the former with it. however you can reduce shrinkage and add more layers at once with a tooling resin without the fear of shrinkage but you still need a good solid former to mould off. we cant supply to the US due to hazard restriction but look up a company called Fibre Glast and they may be able to help you further with tooling resin and more advice on their systems. hope this helps. kind regards .

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  @bigtasty6040Ай бұрын

  Love the music

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  @AndyGoesOutside2 ай бұрын

  did you let the chop strands and resin cure or harden at all in the corner before continuing with the regular layer of matt @2:40?

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  @ecfibreglassuk2 ай бұрын

  Hi, We just went straight on with the fibreglass matting. If you let the 6mm chops cure you could end up with pull marks in the gelcoat side where the thick 6mm filler has cured shrunk back applying at least one layer of matting over prevents this.

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  @jean-marcbronner13272 ай бұрын

  You coumd have tested polyester glue in corner. That s the method I personally use most of the time.

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  @hellapellanyc64652 ай бұрын

  Hi there, I am fiberglassing in new balsa core on my boat and have to glass (tab) the sides. Just to clarify my question, where the corner meets the deck from the sides, do I have to use a filet since 1700 doesn't bend to sharp radius or can I use matt followed by 1700 or would 1708 do just fine if I use the matt side down? Also my thinking is that 1:1 epoxy or table top epoxy though not "structural" would still be better then using poly resin for putting down before laying down the core to fill any voids since it is thick. Do you see any issues with this?

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  @poepflater2 ай бұрын

  I call it 6mm confetti! Awesome video

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  @wildflower.blooom2 ай бұрын

  Very helpful, thank you!

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  @evelynrodriguez86523 ай бұрын

  New subscriber here, I really enjoyed the videos on fiberglass and the importance of rounding the edges , thank you for the information

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  @SamoNiza3 ай бұрын

  Two nice bucket are now for garbage

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  @ecfibreglassuk2 ай бұрын

  Thank you for your input. what would you suggest we use to mix it in?

• 
  @OPSteel973 ай бұрын

  Annoying intro omg turn it off

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  @Sailor4263 ай бұрын

  I could hear you and completely understand everything in this short no nonsense video , now I know what this product does, well done ! Music was suitable for the video and absolutely no problem 👍

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  @ecfibreglassuk2 ай бұрын

  Thank you

• 
  @kasozihassan49573 ай бұрын

  The black liquid is called what and clear is also called what

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  @thecockneykayaker22393 ай бұрын

  are you sure that pigment is RAL 1015? looks more like 1014 looking at your colour chart

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  @ecfibreglassuk3 ай бұрын

  Hi It is definitely Ral 1015 just above the Ral 1016 sulpher yellow in the colour chart. Due to the room's lighting however it does look slightly darker on camera. Kind regards martin

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  @kuzz79193 ай бұрын

  Thank you for posting this video !! Very Helpful !!

• 
  @GreenEvolutions3 ай бұрын

  !5 years old and no comments .... Wow .... Can you give an Approximate materials weight break down for this size project? eg: Kg's of resin used Kg's of flow coat, m2 or kg's of Matt?

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  @ecfibreglassuk3 ай бұрын

  It was a while since I did this pool so i cant remember the exact dimensions. I estimate it was around 2mtr high, 2.5mtr wide and 4.5mtr in length so around 40 square metres for that size you would need:- 36kg of 450g emulsion bound chopped strand matting, Approx 90-100kg lloyds approved resin (low styrene emission) approx 40 mtr surface tissue 25-28kg flowcoat If however the water in the pool is to be chlorinated then the resin and flowcoat needs to be chemical resistant and the matting a powderbound version rather than emulsion bound.

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  @studio12archive603 ай бұрын

  Making a mould --- First, start with a mould. Bye

• 
  @ecfibreglassuk3 ай бұрын

  Hello! you always start with a master or plug to make a mould. we always have fibreglass plugs for remolding if one of our moulds gets damaged. this video is has shown exactly what materials are used to make the mould. if you need to know how to make a plug to make a mould from then that would be a different video.

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  @nazimuddinkhan81733 ай бұрын

  Can I know the names of part 1 and part 2 , and ratios for compound mixing, thank you

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  @ecfibreglassuk3 ай бұрын

  Hi here is the link to the products you will also find technical and safety data sheets here www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/pu-polyurethane-foam-liquid mixing ratio is typically :- Part 1 and Part 2 are mixed at a ratio of 1 to 1.06by volume, or preferably 1 to 1.2 by weight. However this ratio can vary between brands of PU products so it is best to check with your supplier first.

• 
  @mindgames113 ай бұрын

  im wondering about using chopped pieces of steel cable strands to increase the shear/tensile strength in order to use epoxy for cold casting odd shaped brackets and the like

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  @ecfibreglassuk3 ай бұрын

  Hi This would be totally experimental, you may find however depending on metal size that the contraction/expansion of the metal may cause cracking ion the resin. glass fibres are usually better for improving strength to resin.

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  @travisg23034 ай бұрын

  Would you like me to buy you a spoon?

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  @ecfibreglassuk4 ай бұрын

  The mixing stick is an upgrade from a spoon. works just fine once you are a black belt in mixing and dispersing of pigments for 20+years. Thank you however for you professional input I tried to find your video on the subject but not sure where it is? nice playlists though 😉

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  @travisg23034 ай бұрын

  ​​​@@ecfibreglassuk lol. You used your hand. Around 2:55. E: but you did get me. I don't have any professional videos detailing how a spoon is better than starfish fingers for scooping powder. 😂 To clarify, good video, good end result. It was helpful for what I wanted to know - whether I needed to worry about the metal settling.

• 
  @ecfibreglassuk3 ай бұрын

  haha right you are I missed that. we must have been mid filming before realizing we didn't have a scoop well try better next time 🤣

• 
  @monkeybase014 ай бұрын

  Could you make a video about how to avoid "alligator" spots in the gel coat and what the reasons are we can get them?

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  @ecfibreglassuk4 ай бұрын

  That's a great Idea for a video! I will look into this and hopefully have something uploaded soon.

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  @monkeybase014 ай бұрын

  @@ecfibreglassuk Thank you!!

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  @ecfibreglassukАй бұрын

  @@monkeybase01 HI, Sorry It took a while but we eventually got around to this video for you here is the link ..... kzread.info/dash/bejne/fZVhxNeGh5PPiZc.html Kind rgds Martin

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  @monkeybase01Ай бұрын

  @@ecfibreglassuk haha, that's amazing!! Many thanks :)

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  @AryanBhole5634 ай бұрын

  I am still confused as to how the polymerisation reaction takes place? Aren’t the moulds generally heated, are there any specific additives or catalysts for the same?

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  @ecfibreglassuk4 ай бұрын

  It is a catalyed resin which is used. Depending on the system you have this may be a resin which is catlysed by the injection gun as it enters the mould or pre-catalysed by hand before being poured into the mould. we only supply the raw materials such as the Rovicore matting they are placing inside the machine. For any further questions on this you would need to speak to a manufacturer of these types of moulds.

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  @svlamancha98774 ай бұрын

  Good enough to eat 😁😁 any chance of a video on applying/spraying gelcoat on an external surface like a boat hull👍

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  @ecfibreglassuk4 ай бұрын

  HI, unfortunately we wouldn't recommend this as a DIY approach. We would advise having a professional boat builders /restorer carry out this type of work . They tend to have their own formulated Gelcoats /Flowcoats and perfectly temperature controlled workshops necessary for this type of application and years of experience and skill. For a DIY er I would say just use Marine paint. Not meaning to knock anyone's abilities but even with all our experience in the GRP industry, we would not tackle re-gelling a boat hull even if we had the space or a hull to spray. I did give this same advice once to an ex automotive sprayer. because of his background in spraying he decided he was going to try anyway. after spending a fortune on gelcoat and flowcoat, cutting back too far , buying more , re-applying back and forth he eventually gave up and bought paint and said he never ever wanted to try that again .😀 I would say however small areas of the boat are worth a try as shown by this guy here kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZZhstZqNnMa2iag.html but never a full hull unless it was a small rowing dinghy maybe? The other thing to factor in is that when gelcoat or flowcoat is mixed you introduce tiny little air bubbles into the product. these are exposed when you start cutting back into the flowcoat/gelcoats surface and become like microscopic craters and although when first finished and polished it may look amazing, these tiny microscopic holes will attract dirt easier than a gelcoat finish produced from a moulded application.

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  @kagirion4 ай бұрын

  ...Awwe, how sweet, and such a good cast........... ........ *casts my dick*

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  @se28814 ай бұрын

  Hi awesome work, congrats, by thw way, would like to ask about copy right of the character Popeye, as you know it is very famous character. Did you pay any price about the copyright?

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  @ecfibreglassuk4 ай бұрын

  Hi This was a fan made mask by a local artist for himself as a one off . the mould was destroyed and is not being sold therefore no copyright infringement. Kind rgds

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  @se28814 ай бұрын

  ooh ok I understandi thank you for your reply..@@ecfibreglassuk

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  @zellalmohammed4064 ай бұрын

  Please can we apply gelcoat on silicone mold ?

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  @ecfibreglassuk4 ай бұрын

  Gelcoats can sometimes come out of a silicone mould quite tacky due to a reaction with most standard silicone. So it best to test first with your particular silicone. Addition cure silicone, sometimes refereed to as platinum cure silicone, can usually be gelcoated without issues as shown in this video approx 6.57minutes in.... kzread.info/dash/bejne/jIaO3LmKaNzem5s.html bear in mind however that gelcoats are a polyester and contain styrene solvents which can eventually dry out rubber moulds and reduce their lifespan compared to plasters ect.

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  @user-vm9vf9cu6g4 ай бұрын

  Hi, you are missing a very important key step, coating the inside of the mold with metallic powder before pouring the resin....

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  @ecfibreglassuk4 ай бұрын

  Hi, yes you are right it is common practice, we would do that if we were coating the mould to save on powder. However here we are doing a solid heavy cast with a 1:1 mix, any dusted powder into the mould would have been rubbed off anyway during the wire wool process. As you can see from the final results this method worked great for us. We should however probably do another video to show how to save on metal powder especially since the rise in metal prices. Thanks for the feedback and info.

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  @paulkirkham31324 ай бұрын

  Can you freshen up a car badge in a different colour?

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  @ecfibreglassuk4 ай бұрын

  If you mean applying a colored resin in the recess? then yeh just grind out the old and apply new resin, if going onto metal use epoxy for the best bond and seal with a UV resistant clear laquer.

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  @BeatenRustBuckets5 ай бұрын

  Personally I would recommend a second layer of clear gelcoat if it is going to be out in the sun, if not after 5 years you will find the glitter will push up threw the surface as the gelcoat shrinks over time. For bigger areas you might want to move up to a Binks model 18 pressure pot but for small jobs that G110 or a G100 is a good option. 40 year professional boat builder

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  @ecfibreglassuk5 ай бұрын

  Hi Thank you for your professional advice that makes perfect sense. this is the general lay-up some of our guys did back in the 80's and 90s for old GRP Kayaks/canoes and sometimes fairground rides, I suspect the UV exposure may have been far less due to them being in storage/under cover more times than they were outdoors or in the water?. It's always good to obtain information from those who have further experience with these processes. Thanks again for the info. Kind regards Martin

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  @BeatenRustBuckets5 ай бұрын

  @@ecfibreglassuk You are very welcome, I love watching these, when that little golden nugget shows up making me go "well I didn't know that would work" or "we will be trying that" is always a treat almost as good as when something that is new teck pops up.

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  @mountdoomee5 ай бұрын

  That seems like a lot of Acetone to wash 1 roller. Would it be cheaper to change the roller each time?

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  @ecfibreglassuk5 ай бұрын

  Although we used one roller for demonstration purposes, you would tend to have more tools to wash out during a normal fibreglassing process, also the same pots would be sealed afterwards and used again after each project. Repeat the process until the first pot becomes too dirty, you can sometimes let the sediment settle to the bottom of the tub and salvage cleaner acetone from the top, the sediment will usually eventually solidify into a lump if you leave the lid off then it can be disposed off. for an industrial scale you can get acetone recycling machines. leaving tools to soak in just one tub of dirty acetone during a typical GRP workshop week of manufacturing can cause residue to collect and congeal at the bottom of the tub and clog up your tools. worst case it can eventually solidify and render your tools useless or in need of stripping down. larger tubs of acetone especially if they cannot be sealed can evaporate quicker causing more acetone waste. The method you use all depends on the volumes of production you have. This video was mainly put out there as we had some first time users just leaving their tools in acetone, as if they were leaving paint brushes in a tub of white spirit, instead of physically cleaning off the resin that would typically still cure on the brushes and rollers. we used approx 1ltr of acetone for this demo. A 1ltr tin of acetone is around £6 or cheaper per ltr if you buy bigger tubs for example a 25ltr of acetone works out around £3 per ltr. A 3" consolidating roller is typically around £5. You could clean over 20 x £5 rollers in just a ltr of acetone. Or you can save the £6 on acetone and throw away over £100 worth of paddle rollers. It may make sense to throw away a roller and a brush if its a one time project you are doing, but in a GRP production factory it would be a huge waste to throw tools away that can be re-used.

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  @bill01185 ай бұрын

  The process is well explained, but this is the ugliest shape of doghouse I have ever see.

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  @ecfibreglassuk5 ай бұрын

  We would advise a GRP moulded wheelhouse for best cosmetics and design. A customer brought the ready made plywood construction to us, as he didn't have the confidence to carry out the work himself, we just offered to glass it for him so we could make this tutorial. Some people will do it this way if they are working on a Low budget or do not have the knowledge moulding with GRP materials.

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  @ecfibreglassuk5 ай бұрын

  Apologies to Mahmoud Zaefi who asked a question on our last upload, we had to re-edit the video and upload it again. If you find this new video the answer to your question is...... silicone moulds will last longer than latex. latex tends to decay naturally after a while just like how rubber bands start to disintegrate . silicone will last a lot longer and resist resin casts better

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  @Twizzforsberg5 ай бұрын

  Wow thats perfect

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  @user-qg9co7qo9b5 ай бұрын

  Niceee