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  @ktechnology9146Күн бұрын

  Unfortunately I don't think new CRTs will ever be manufactured again, which is a shame -- I recall seeing articles about new CRT technologies as recently as 2004 or so that surely never reached production and more recently I'd bey quantum dot phosphors could have been integrated into CRTs, so the technology clearly hadn't reached its peak.

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  @Joao-hf1qmКүн бұрын

  I just dont understand why this game. Hehe

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  @igor6soloКүн бұрын

  Best of Both Worlds - Pioneer Kuro

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  @blunaish2 күн бұрын

  I think this crt can do 1440x1080 at 60hz most likely

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  @panosskarpas66953 күн бұрын

  Game?

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  @pandaengineering3 күн бұрын

  Lotus: The Ultimate Challenge or just Lotus 3 for DOS

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  @panosskarpas66953 күн бұрын

  @@pandaengineering thank you ao mush and also for this video

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  @pilouuuu3 күн бұрын

  Nothing like CRT. Hopefully someday we'll have a similar technology again.

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  @ahmetkoc7494 күн бұрын

  Definetly crt

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  @Kaztrofy4 күн бұрын

  That shader you're using was made to mimic a 240p 15khz monitor, not a high resolution VGA monitor that you have there. Even if it's a CRT it's generates a much more pixelated image than a display those games were intended for. Also, I recommend playing around with Black Frame Insertion in RetroArch because digital displays sucks when it comes to motion resolution compared to a CRT. You need 120hz BFI at least to even come near 60hz on an analogue display.

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  @pandaengineering4 күн бұрын

  Thanks for the tip!

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  @d4DGC4 күн бұрын

  The Retroscaler 2X has a problem with the 480p resolution option on a TV, does this too? Or it displays normally and give the option to activate progressive on GameCube games?

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  @pandaengineering4 күн бұрын

  The device is not a scaler so it only converts the signal as-is from Component to HDMI. Doesn't change the output format. I was able to test 480i, 480p and 576i and they all worked fine on the TV supporting these via HDMI. All computer monitors I've tested with didn't support interlaced at all. Note, that some games switch video modes like Super Mario Sunshine at bootup that allows you to pick 480p or 480i (I think it starts on interlaced so it means no picture on a monitor that doesn't support it). 480p works for me with source from PSP, Wii and Wii running GC games (via Nintendont). With mentioned Super Mario Sunshine it allowed me to play in both interlaced and progressive just fine and the TV recognised the HDMI format too correctly in both cases. I have some Wii games patched for widescreen and 480p and these work as well. Sorry, I don't have a proper GC to test with. What I've also recently learned is that some games look better unpatched on 480i (apparently RE4 is nicer on the eyes interlaced), but it's up to personal preferences.

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  @d4DGC4 күн бұрын

  @@pandaengineering thank you for the response. And regarding GC games, I meant to play via the native retrocompatibility of the Wii.

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  @M1XART5 күн бұрын

  This is indeed very possible to achieve. I managed to get great results on big screen 120Hz LG OLED while ago. Now it basically looks big screen CRT. But patience is the key. Fine tuning on this level is not easy to figure out.

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  @PabloB8886 күн бұрын

  I still have SD CRT, but I get better picture quality on modern high resolution displays thanks to CRT phosphor emulation (CRT shaders). The thing is, the SD CRT blurs the image way too much, so even 480i/p doesnt look nearly as sharp as it should, while CRT allows me to emulate PVM monitor as well, so I get CRT like image, but with much better sharpness and I have never seen PS2 games looking that good at standard 480i/p. To perfectly emulate CRT phosphor mask, people need 4K OLED with HDR and use CRT PVM HDR shaders in retroarch. The reason is, only HDR allows to have CRT phosphor mask at 100% opacity, so colors and brightness will look absolutely perfect. SDR shaders will always have problems with colors and bloom (which must be used to brighten the image), but it's still possible to get awesome results. I spent a whole week configuring SDR CRT shaders and I'm happy with the results.

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  @luqasxXX6 күн бұрын

  for me CRT always wins for pre 2000s games

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  @PabloB8886 күн бұрын

  I still have SD CRT, but PVM HDR shaders looks even better in both 240p / 480p. In this video you arent seeing 4K and HDR, so CRT phosphor mask cant be emulated perfectly. With 4K OLED and HDR, it's impossible to tell the difference between the real thing (CRT) and the emulated phosphor mask (at least on the static image, because you would meed 1000Hz OLED to match CRT motion quality), that's how good CRT shaders can look.

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  @ef12654 күн бұрын

  No it doesn't "always win", crap talker

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  @ef12654 күн бұрын

  ​@@PabloB888it's not "impossible to tell the difference", crap talker! Of course you can tell the difference!

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  @PabloB8884 күн бұрын

  @ef1265 Google "sony megatron color video monitor" thread on libretro forum and see if you can guess which one is which without zooming in 1000% on the image. The only advantage CRT still has is better motion quality, but on the static image results look stunningly accurate. In fact, I prefer the emulated image because CRTs (and especially PVMs) are very small and do not allow me to change the phosphor masks to my liking.

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  @ef12654 күн бұрын

  @@PabloB888 you can still tell the difference even if it's a good recreation

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  @turrican4d5996 күн бұрын

  3:08 If you would export and upload in 1080p50, the difference would be obvious in the scrolling clouds for everyone to see.

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  @pandaengineering6 күн бұрын

  The thing is that I could only record in 8K at 30fps, since even with h245 it was basically at quality of very clear 4k footage that I uploaded. At higher fps I also had all kinds of tearing on CRT as it seems it often was actually more around 59 Hz and I don't really have a professional camera that would be able to sync well enough at that level. I went with the 30fps even though I'm well aware that it's showing the ghosting that isn't there IRL, but at motion the recording was looking the closest I could get to what the eye sees without any artifacts of CRT drawing the image. I'm sure it can be done better 😊

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  @turrican4d5995 күн бұрын

  @@pandaengineering Ahh, I see. I only meant it to be 50fps because of the scrollign on sample&hold vs impulse driven technology. Thanks for your efforts though to demonstrate OLED vs LCD vs CRT!

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  @pandaengineering5 күн бұрын

  @turrican4d599 That's a very good point, I always appreciate the input 😁

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  @turrican4d5996 күн бұрын

  OLEDs sucks as do all sample & hold displays.

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  @PabloB8886 күн бұрын

  The motion picture quality on the 240Hz OLEDs is very similar to my Panasonic GT60 plasma, meaning motion blur is minimal. Even on 170Hz LCD motion blur isnt that noticeable to me, and I still own real CRT.

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  @zerocal764 күн бұрын

  OLED in general is the bees knees 👌👌

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  @blunaish2 күн бұрын

  @@PabloB888Yeah but whenever you watch something that is 60fps capped it’s pretty blurry

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  @iiGerardoii7 күн бұрын

  Interesting comparison, thanks for sharing. I personally will stick to my CRT because of how good fast-paced sidescrollers like Sonic, SMW, Super Metroid look on it, it's the main reason I haven't replaced it for an OLED. Retro games running at 60fps on a 60hz CRT will give you such smooth movement because of the way CRT work. The flickering gives you the illusion that the object you're following is at infinite fps because the eye can't perceive the black frames. I've tried OLEDs with black frame insertion and it's just not the same, you still get some blur, AND you lose half the brightness. I was goin to suggest you to do another comparison, now with a sidescroller, but it's honestly a very difficult task to do since you'd have to move the camera laterally and at the same speed the level is scrolling, and record it at 120fps, then slow it down to see the blur difference. Recording it with the camera standing still would be pointless. Anyhow, I'll keep waiting for the day a brand releases an OLED with black frame insertion that actually works well.

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  @Adam_Lyskawa6 күн бұрын

  It's pretty weird - the OLED screens you've tried were not the best quality. 60Hz refresh rate is not even very high for OLEDs. They are even faster than LCDs, and I have a LCD that has 165Hz refresh rate. This is way, way, way smoother than 60Hz. And yes - I doubted it's even possible to tell all the difference until I just saw how it looks and, what's the most important - how it affects my gaming. It's probably like how the myth of "better analog audio" was born. Early digital audio devices were poorly designed, bad quality, so compared with high quality analog audio they sounded worse. Even today you can buy badly sounding multimedia player. But it's not the tech. It's just specific products.

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  @becausemexico1497 күн бұрын

  very nice. Not used retroarch for years, but I'll keep this mind for when I do.

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  @ef12654 күн бұрын

  HAVEN'T USED, not "not used", crap English

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  @Max_Mustermann21 күн бұрын

  In addition to vintage DOS PCs being expensive there is also the issue of old hardware being unreliable with hard drives failing, floppy disks getting corrupted, capacitors leaking, contact pads oxidizing, etc. DOS Box may be less authentic, but it's a lot less hassle.

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  @xiaofengxiaofengxiaofengxi465122 күн бұрын

  You could probably have just put an old gpu in the pcie slot like a matrox card with an adapter / a normal pci slot if your board has it

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  @lusoprazer25 күн бұрын

  Bonjour, merci pour avoir communiqué ton Application pour le téléphone mobile. Comment savoir si la batterie de la caméra est chargée ? il y a un symbole de couleur vert en haut à droite de l'Application, c'est cela ? Si je recharge la caméra avec le câble USB sur l'ordinateur alors le voyant rouge clignote sur la caméra.Il y a un voyant sur la caméra qui indique que la batterie est chargée ? Cette caméra n'est pas à détection automatique de mouvement donc c'est l'utilisateur qui doit l'actionner à distance avec son téléphone mobile, c'est ça ? Les vidéos enregistrées dans l'application de téléphone mobile ne peuvent pas être supprimées directement dans l'application mais on doit les supprimer dans la carte mémoire SD avec l'ordinateur fixe, c'est bien ça ? La date et l'heure ne peuvent pas être modifiées ? Merci.

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  @pandaengineering23 күн бұрын

  The only way I know for sure that the camera is charged is when the blinking red light turns to steady. It seems that whenever you charge it, it runs very slow and doesn't want to respond to button presses, so I only use it when it runs on battery and charge it when it's off. App shows for me the battery state in the right upper corner of the preview, but it doesn't show how much is charged when connected and if it's done charging, so I look at the red light if it's still blinking or not. There is no motion detection, you need to start/stop recording manually. There is no way to delete the videos with an app. In the app you can only format the whole microSD card to erase all files. I usually just ignored the app and managed the files with USB OTG cable on my phone, because it was faster than the wifi connection. For me the date and time resets every time I turn off the camera and it only synchronises with phone time when I connect the app. I just turned off the timestamp from the videos because it was reset on all recordings.

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  @Sama_09Ай бұрын

  Can the circuit be programmed ??

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  @pandaengineeringАй бұрын

  I doubt it. This seems to be a standard chip they use in many IR controlled lights.

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  @SirineBoulkenafetАй бұрын

  I don't know how It works and connects to the phone please help

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  @SirineBoulkenafetАй бұрын

  I don't know how It works and connects to the phone please help

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  @pandaengineeringАй бұрын

  In this case turning them on and keeping the button pressed for a longer time (about 10-15seconds) nters them into pairing mode so they can become discoverable on your phone. It's important to keep the button pressed down even after they've turned on. There should be a jingle and the light should change blink red and blue.

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  @SirineBoulkenafetАй бұрын

  I don't know how It works and connects to the phone please help

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  @SirineBoulkenafetАй бұрын

  I don't know how It works and connects to the phone please help

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  @SirineBoulkenafetАй бұрын

  I don't know how It works and connects to the phone please help

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  @SirineBoulkenafetАй бұрын

  I don't know how you know, please help

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  @SirineBoulkenafetАй бұрын

  I don't know why it doesn't work please help

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  @RazzeeTVАй бұрын

  About the A/D switch, it actually switches between audio to HDMI and headphone port, is not it?

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  @pandaengineering28 күн бұрын

  After testing it again with RCA cables, connecting headphone jack disables audio output via HDMI and you can listen only via headphones regardless of the A/D switch. When headphones are disconnected I get sound via HDMI only when the light is off. I only have devices with audio RCA jacks, but I suspect now that this button may be for switching input between RCA jacks (analog) and coaxial audio input (digital), but I don't have hifi or DVD with that kind of output to test this.

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  @paolotortelli391Ай бұрын

  Is it possible to connect this to the PS2 too? Thanks

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  @pandaengineeringАй бұрын

  No, sorry. This is only compatible with PS1 and only models SCPH-1XXX, SCPH-3XXX, SCPH-5XXX since they were the only ones with parallel port.

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  @paolotortelli391Ай бұрын

  @@pandaengineering Is there a Game Shark just for Ps2?

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  @pandaengineeringАй бұрын

  @paolotortelli391 there is, also action replay(rebranded GameShark), Code breaker and Blaze. If you use Open PS2 Launcher there should be a native cheat solution. I read here that if you use Free McBoot, the Codebreaker would be the best. www.reddit.com/r/ps2/comments/q4bbpu/comment/hfznnzq/ I haven't used any of them myself before and don't have a PS2 to recommend anything now.

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  @Miichaos2 ай бұрын

  Ainda funciona?

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  @Tiam2022 ай бұрын

  Respect MAN!

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  @cleangoblin20212 ай бұрын

  Woah thanks. It actually works

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  @SauloJrGuitar2 ай бұрын

  Hello! I've got a Playstation 1 PAL (not PAl M or N, only pAL) and my TV is NTSC. I've already tried the conversor PAL - NTSC from Ali Express, but it didn't work (funny how it only works for the 2 frist screens... but when it enters in the games.. only some colors work, it gets weird). My question is: is this converter PAL (without being M or N)? Thanks!

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  @pandaengineering2 ай бұрын

  Sorry, but I can't confirm which specific version of PAL it outputs (might even be a semi-PAL signal, just converting colors). None of my TV show the signal type they get so there is no way to confirm this for me. I would recommend against using this specific converter as it has poor signal at the output. Best choice for PS1 is SCART cable or S-video and then convert this signal to what you need with an external converter if you run a CRT. If your TV has HDMI you might be better off getting a converter for that since it will be more flexible with input signals (although cheaper ones might cause some more lag than what TV would normally get with analog inputs).

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  @saidkouzibry4923 ай бұрын

  3:20 that's the vibra- umm.. lol

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  @Alfred_Ashford3 ай бұрын

  Данный аксессуар не работает с японским стандартом телевизионного сигнала ntsc-j (3.58),только с американским стандартом телевизионного сигнала ntsc-u/c (4.43),есть точно такой же,даже не знал,что данное устройство не мультифункционально,а изготовлено китайцами только под американский стандарт ntsc 4.43.Там даже кварцевый резонатор стоит именно для конвертирования американского стандарта ntsc 4.43,для ntsc 3.58 кварцевого резонатора в нём нет. Узнал я об этом совершенно случайно,когда купил PlayStation 1 японского региона,и хотел конвертировать сигнал с неё в стандарт "PAL",и сигнала с этого устройства нет вобще никакого,даже искажённого,просто чёрный экран и всё: 😁

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  @Hue_like123 ай бұрын

  Your Homebrew channel looks different. Do you have an old version?

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  @balsa01083 ай бұрын

  Do you know how hard is to replace a battery? Can I do it at home or somebody else needs to do it? I have the same one just different colour. When I crank it it lights up but can't charge the battery.

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  @pandaengineering3 ай бұрын

  You should be able to replace it yourself if you solder a new 3.6V NiMH battery in place of the old one (or just bind the wires together and isolate then with tape). The one in mine was 40mAh but any similar capacity should fit as well(make sure to measure it first). Price is anywhere $1.5 to even $10 so it might make more sense just to buy a new light 😉

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  @balsa01083 ай бұрын

  @@pandaengineering yeah I know its cheap but I got it long time before by somebody so I dont want to trow it away.

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  @tonycarr20183 күн бұрын

  Then keep it but get a new one and use the working one and keep your older one

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  @hakimshahmi6013 ай бұрын

  How many days battery life?

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  @pandaengineering3 ай бұрын

  It runs steadily at about 0.6A so in my case with old batteries(probably less then 3Ah now) it lasts only for up to 4 hours. Nest Hub is very power hungry.

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  @xksn3 ай бұрын

  I know this is kinda old video. But thanks for the information, I'm trying to make my fairy lights smart but I would like to keep the lights effects too

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  @Sama_09Ай бұрын

  I was able to make them smart by asking an wifi connected ir blaster for 4$

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  @RaySmokesWeed3 ай бұрын

  How did you get the battery out, I am STRUGGLING

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  @conniehayes43583 ай бұрын

  Problem: it says drive disconnected

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  @NGames0493 ай бұрын

  One question, can you tell me where the connection pins go? I have a generic control that I want to repair, but I don't have the color of the pins.

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  @pandaengineering3 ай бұрын

  If you mean on the old joystick side with Game Port, the only good way to well understand how it's connected is to "ring" through (check using the continuity function on the electric meter) and write down what each pin on the connector is connected to what cable on the board. Then you can figure out the function on each pin (you can easily find Game Port pinout on Wikipedia). This should make it easier to understand how they made your controller because in practice Game Port can't be really nothing more than 2 analogue sticks + 4 buttons.

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  @ryanswitzercock7024 ай бұрын

  Does this work on 1440p monitors. I know that not all monitors like 480 but is there anyway I could know if they do before I get this

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  @pandaengineering4 ай бұрын

  The only idea I have is looking into the manual, there should be a table at the end (for Samsung it's "Standard Signal Mode Table"). The thing about this is that you can't say for sure what kind of horizontal or vertical frequency your specific device will use and it may just fall out of range. I also would assume that no monitor without TV capability has any way to display interlaced signals. Reading a little bit about Wii itself it apparently renders 480p internally to 640x480, but outputs that to 720x480 which is rather non-standard, but for whatever reason worked on my old monitor. Depending on the graphics card you might be able to simulate that kind of resolution and test monitor for yourself beforehand (I had better luck with AMD GPU than Intel built-in because Intel would scale internally my custom resolution and output a native HDMI monitor resolution).

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  @ryanswitzercock7024 ай бұрын

  @@pandaengineering I’ll check my manual, I don’t get the tv capability thing but thank you for responding

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  @ryanswitzercock7024 ай бұрын

  Does this work on 1440p monitors. I know that not all monitors like 480 but is there anyway I could know if they do before I get this

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  @TheElisbad4 ай бұрын

  Friend, can this converter deliver 720p or 1080p connected to a component video cable and a 4k LG TV? I would really appreciate it if you could answer me.

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  @pandaengineering4 ай бұрын

  No, sorry, this isn't an upscaler so it outputs exactly the same resolution as the source signal.

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  @kibaofficial63324 ай бұрын

  i tried to play some Zelda TP for the gamecube with this metod but my controller wasn't responding

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  @chrizzy26644 ай бұрын

  I also bought the same sensorbar. When I first tested it only one light worked. For some reason it worked later. However the range is really bad. I have to stand 1meter away from the bar to work. And even then it doesnt work all the time and how it should

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  @pandaengineering4 ай бұрын

  The board inside is very thin so maybe it's broken. It worked fine across the room but mine doesn't have a lot of light so this may be the factor.

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  @fabriglas4 ай бұрын

  I'm trying to find an alternative to ipod.. this thing does the audio, need something with a screen and no propriety software.....

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  @Weisheng11204 ай бұрын

  Shopee...?

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  @ilikegetting4 ай бұрын

  I get scam for this usb is run bad and have lag input