The Step-by-Step Channel is provided to give advice to the owners of biOrb aquariums, whether you are new to owning an aquarium or if you've had one for years.
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Who am I? I am an MSc qualified environmental scientist with a long interest in "fishy and watery" things. I have owned biOrbs for years and have gown-up with "traditional" aquariums (my Father always had them!). I currently have 5 biOrbs on the go and I use my experience of maintaining all these to pass on information that you might find useful!
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Hiya how often does the ceramic media need replacing. I replace my big tanks every year. But obviously this is a smaller tank. I dont want a dirty tank or new tank syndrome either.
Hi Erika. In a biOrb the ceramic media acts as the tanks biological filter. This is unlike most other aquariums where the biological filtering is carried out through sponge filter systems etc and less so the substrate material. I still have ceramic media in a couple of my tanks that are over 5-years old and haven't had a reason to change them. Water parameters are still excellent. But, saying that you could change the media every couple of years especially if the media is heavily stained. Caution needs to be applied when changing the biOrb's media to avoid new tank syndrome. It needs to be undertaken in stages to maintain beneficial bacteria. The method I describe in this video allows successful changing of media and avoiding new tank syndrome: kzread.info/dash/bejne/f2GHsLagd8KTYqw.html. In small tanks, the key. to maintaining a clean and healthy substrate (and tank water) is to use a gravel vac and combine this with regular water changes of 25-50% (depending on numbers and types of fish held). Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
We have a biorb 30liter can u change the air filter tube thanks
Hi. I'm not sure if you mean get a replacement bubble tube or if you mean replace the airline from the air pump? Either way, replacements parts etc are available from most larger biOrb suppliers. For example, for UK Amazon, from here: amzn.to/3LjLjoG. Hope that is what you needed to know. Thanks, Mark
Bonjour peu on mettre un Bernard l Hermite d eau douce dans un biorb?
Bonjour. J'ai bien peur d'en savoir très peu sur eux. Je ne suis pas sûr qu'ils soient de vraies "eau douce" et qu'ils aient besoin d'eau saumâtre. Un problème clé lors de l'utilisation d'un biOrb pour les bernard-l'ermite est probablement le substrat/média de perles dans un biOrb qui n'est probablement pas compatible avec l'eau dont les bernard-l'ermite ont besoin.
New to Biorb brought used with no instructions. Answered all my questions Thank you clear and simple to follow. Especially the alternative sponge system. Did not know they existed. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Hi Kevin. Thanks for visiting the Channel. Nice to hear from you. Don't worry... even new biOrbs tanks come with no (or hardly any!) instructions :-) Hopefully this Channel's videos will take you through the key things you might need to know. I certainly recommend using the alternative filter sponges etc. The biOrb ones cost a fortune! There are far better things to waste money on! Anyway, if you need any advice/help just drop me a line. Best, Mark
MMS is the perfect one to use.
Just checking… you mentioned you are 2.5ml for every 5L. But shouldn’t it be 1.32 for every 5L? 10mL (38L) x (5L/38L) = 10mL x 0.132 = 1.32mL for every 5L
Hi. Thanks for visiting the channel. If you are referring to AquaSafe dosage... it is 5 ml of AquaSafe for every 10 litres of newly added tap water (2.5ml per 5l). You could get away with less in terms of dealing with typical tap water chlorine/chloramine levels but AquaSafe also deals with metals such as copper, lead and zinc. Water suppliers also can boost chlorine/chloramine levels during maintenance periods so 5ml/10l covers that scenario.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks for the reply! :) Oh, you must have different directions on your bottle for the AquaSafe. The Canadian bottle says 10mL for every 10 gallons (38L) of water.
I've checked on the Tetra website and established the difference. I recommend simple dechlorinators and I always use standard AquaSafe. At 5ml/10l it also has a more straightforward dilution rate that is better suited to the size of biOrbs and undertaking regular water changes. You probably have Tetra AquaSafe PLUS - it is this product that is prepared at 5ml/ 38l. Hope that helps. Best, Mark
Beautiful
So helpful
Thank you so much I have been trying to to find videos from biorb and didn’t find anything and the booklet really didn’t explain at all
Hi Kiki. Yes, the biOrb booklets and videos are not very good at all. At best, they only show you how to set the tank up. Beyond that... nothing! I hope that you find my Channel provides a useful library of subjects that will allow you to have a fully working and beautiful aquarium. Thanks for your support and thanks for watching. Best wishes, Mark
Many thanks for this great video Mark 🙏 Just got 10 year old a Biorb 30 so learning all the time on how to keep aquarium safe & clean 👍
Many thanks for your support Justin. If you need any help (please!) just shout. Best wishes, Mark
I love Biorb tanks other than not being able to take off the top. The hole is just such a small opening for decorating and cleaning.
Yes, Betzie, totally agree with you! The small aperture lid is a pain on biOrbs. The ability to remove the lid, like on the TUBE biOrbs, is a great idea and I'm not sure why the same approach can't be applied to some of the other models. But, I guess, "design" takes priority, before practicability, in the biOrb company world! Best wishes, Mark
Can I use live plants in a BiOrb tank?
Hi. Yes, of course you can! You just need to choose plants that are suitable to the biOrb's filtration system. See my video which covers the basics here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/nINkmpqrYtDTndo.html. Hope that helps, Best, Mark
Thank you for this video! Very informative. Are any of the Biorb lighting options that have a grow light? We have the 30 flow and have live plants that would need a bit more of a grow light. TIA :)
Hi. I'm not aware biOrb do a specific grow light option (Oase do but for these are for their larger tank ranges). biOrb's designed biological filter and substrate aren' really designed for live plants and, besides, biOrb really want you to spend money all your money of their plastic plants LOL. I have occasionally seen videos where people have converted biOrb lighting by using an overhang light and stand but this means removing the biOrb lighting fixture and lid and then positioning the replacement light directly above the tank. Not a pretty solution though! If you plan to convert, the general rule is "1 - 2 watts of lighting per gallon for fish-only freshwater aquariums and between 2 - 5 watts per gallon for planted tanks". If your tank is positioned well away from a natural light source (mine are positioned that way to remove diatom/algae issues) it might also be worth considering relocating. Best wishes, Mark
Hi Mark. I really appreciate your channel I have a biorb tank light that requires pressing a button on top that flashes ( not remote controlled) could you kindly recommend a suitable time to set my light and how how many flashes i need to set it correctly?
Hi Mike. Nice to hear from you. Can I ask what model of biOrb you have as I'm not aware of a model that has lighting operated and controlled via a push button lid? Apart from the remote and power cord (toggle) switch controls, the Moonlight biOrbs are fitted with a light sensor on the lid which automatically switches to blue moonlight when a room is darkened (on this model there is no requirement to set a timer). Thanks, Mark
Hi again. If it is the Halo moonlight, this allows the light to be set to switch on when the ambient/room light reaches a certain lighting level or darkness. The length of time it stays in the moonlight setting will vary between summer and winter. Here are the instructions. Selecting a mode ln the start position (white light) 1. Press once for constant moonlight (blue) 2. Press again and the white light will flash 3 times indicating the light sensor is activated (see instructions for setting the sensor). 3. Press again to return to the start position (white light). Setting the sensor If you wish the lights to automatically switch to a moonlight effect at night, a programmable sensor allows you to decide how dark the room gets before switching over from standard lighting to moonlight. 1. Wait until the room has reached the desired level of light ie. dusk. 2. Press the light button twice for constant moonlight. 3. Press and hold the light button for 3 seconds, the moonlight will flash 3 times to indicate the sensor is now set to switch your LEDs to moonlight when the room reaches this level of light. The light will automatically change back to white light when the ambient light level increases beyond the level set. The light can be turned off via the inline switch and will return to the previous settings when turned on. I tend not to bother with automatic light changes on my tanks but hopefully the above is what you needed. Best, Mark
Thanks Mark! Really appericate you taking the time to reply.
No problem at all Mike. I hope what is provided is of some use. The reality is that I don't have Moonlight based tanks, as all of mine (5 tanks) are MCR Remotes. The other key point is that I don't use daylight to night time biOrb settings on any of my tanks. I turn them all on and off manually and, for the most part, I rely far more on natural lighting rather than tank LEDs for lighting. Anyway, I hope you manage to get your head around the system you have on your biOrb. Take care, Mark.
Hi Mark, I just bought a biOrb service kit and I'm not sure how to use Water conditioner. You said that it is a bit different than Water optimaiser. Do I use it on tap water or direct to my fish tank? Also, must I wait for 24h? It's said on the package that the wait is for the water temperature to rise up to room temperature. What if I add water that is already room temperature? Do I have to wait? Thank you 😊
Hi. The water conditioner is added to tap water to make it safe for fish (mainly deals with chlorine). I would (do) use Tetra AquaSafe and I don't use the biOrb product. Also, rather than buying Service Kits get these amzn.to/3KsIK32. You will save yourself a fortune. The only thing needed for water changes is to apply a dechlorinator (such as AquaSafe) and to warm the water so that it is similar to the temp of the water in the tank. Hope that helps with what you wanted to know. Feel free to drop me a line. Best, Mark
Thanks for the video. I was recommended to get one of these as my tap water nitrates are similar to yours. I wanted to see how it works first. This video was really helpful.
Hi Jodie. Glad I could help. It's a really great product to take out tap nitrates. Just like biOrb and all the products in my videos, I have no deal at all with the suppliers so my views of the product are based on whether it works or not. Many things simply don't (just hype)... This does. I use it every week and push through about 60L of water for maintaining my five tanks. Just like a gravel vac, I wouldn't be without it. I got my unit direct from the supplier and then get my refills from Amazon. Best wishes, Mark
Did he say what type of heater he got for his BiOrb?
Hi. I have biOrb Intelligent Heaters in all 5 tanks. biOrb have stopped production of these though, although you can sometimes pick them up second hand. See my specific video on heaters here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/aHh8uqmfccrfeZc.html. Best, Mark
Hi - Ive had a bio-orb cube for 4years with no issues - having a problem now that the water is green , last time I changed the filter only the top few mm of the filter were dirty, and just green and cloudy water the artificial ornaments bushes, shells are really dirty. I went to our local aquarium shop and was told it was a "bloom" and it would clear, I'm not convinced! Thanks
Hi Janice. Green water is indeed an algal bloom. It is triggered mainly by water nutrient levels (nitrate/ phosphate) but particularly when these are combined with increased light exposure (hence it tends to be more of a summer thing than a winter thing). In some cases blooms can be temporary but, if the conditions that trigger the bloom continue then the bloom can also persist. I assume the tank hasn't been moved more recently so that it now has more exposure to natural light? It is worth: - checking your water nutrient levels to make sure they haven't peaked (tap water supply can also vary in levels or it could be waste within the tank. Use a vac to remove waste) . - reducing/limiting light exposure - using a finer grade of filter sponge/material to help remove (e.g amzn.to/3VjXNm6 or amzn.to/3KjEuCV) - undertaking water changes to reduce algae in the tanks water column. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you so much for your reply. No, the tank hasn't been moved, I've just checked the water with a test stick and says all OK. I do use a hoover every time I clean, I usually clean the furniture using a small amount of bleach. Our local World of Water told us to use a specialist furniture cleaner which i will this weekend, and also suggested some Fluval Biological Aquarium Cleaner which I've used, but not to sure how often needs doing. I'll see how it goes - fingers crossed . Many thanks for your prompt reply. Best wishes Janice
We have 35 litre one in white with just white light.
Don't use that grog substrate its bad.
Hi Mark - hope you're doing fine. Once more I need some advice. I had 5 Harlequin Rasboras but 1 died for a few months ago and today one more. So 3 left. I know 3 is to to little for this group fish but I'm in doubt about what to do. Should I buy a few more HR so they are a group again, or, because I also would like another kind of fish, should I just let them be the 3 that are left (and wait until they'll reduce to 2, 1 and none)? Thanks and all the best, Roel
Hi Roel. Harlequins are a social group species that will happily join in with other social fish species. It is more about security in numbers. So, they should be fine, and will join in/group with another group of fish (depending on what species they are). All of the fish I have spend most of their time grouped with other species. What are you planning to get? Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks Mark. I have 2 Wagtail Platys and was thinking about a few more of them - just in some other colors. Or maybe a group of Neon fish. But I’m not sure if the Neons is a good choice. I would just like some peaceful and lively ones and I prefer some strong colors. The Harlequins are a tight group and they’ve never “socialized” with the other fish. If you have any suggestion please let me know. Best, Roel
I would go with platies and/or mollies if you want social, colourful and active - as well as being very easy to care for. Both can be a bit obsessed with food though . LOL, always acting hungry :) Neons are fine if you have softer/ slightly acidic water, but can often be a bit sensitive to variations in water quality.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you Mark - you’re right about “acting hungry”. They are funny fish. Best, Roel
Hi after looking at reviews for biOrb decorations they seem to have a couple of problems. Hard to clean and the centre piece the colour flakes off. Please any advice.helen
Hi Helen. I have 5 biOrbs - all with centre pieces. No one of the ornaments or decorations I own have had colour paint flake off or have had any colour issues. I have had some of them for numerous years. I am aware, from this Channel, that some people have had issues with white decor (which I don't have). I think, if you keep clear of white biOrb decorations, you will have no problem. In terms of cleaning, that's easy - see my video on bleach cleaning as a super easy way to clean sculptures, decorations and plastic plants - this avoid scrubbing with brushes etc and restores these items to looking new: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eGuf29yOmba0Zbw.html. Hope that helps. Best wishes and thanks for your comments. Mark
Thank you your videos are so helpful
Hi. Glad you are finding them of use. If you need any help or advice just drop me a line through this comments section. Best wishes, Mark
Thank you for all your information so helpful
Love your videos! Planning to set up the Flow 30L with the aim to add fish in a weeks time. When do I add the ATM Colony to make sure it is totally ready and safe for the fish?
Hi Jessica, Nice to hear from you. The only thing you need to add to water to make the tank safe for fish is dechlorinator (such as AquaSafe). Let the tank run for a few days. Biological boosters (such as Colony or Seed) are added to the tank at the same time, or just prior (the morning of), as adding the initial fish stock. Beneficial bacteria rely on a food source for them to grow and expand in numbers. This is provided by the ammonia excreted by the fish or from fish food added to the tank. Bacterial products added to the tank days in advance of adding fish would have no food source and would not be activated. I would suggest adding half of the intended fish initially, after the tank is fully cycled the remainder of the fish can be added. Hardy fish species, matched to your water quality (e.g. pH), provide the best means for undertaking a fish-in cycle. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
I’m thinking about a deep substrate capped with sand for the biorb using microfauna like scuds as the biggest life form in the aquarium.
Hi. Well that's a first for this Channel! LOL :). Nice to hear from someone wanting scuds - they tend to be something that shrimp tank people complain about. Great idea. I assume it would be a planted tank?
Yes definitely! I have them in my larger tank as a food source but I’m enjoying them so much I think I might give them their own space.
That's really sweet. I like it! :)
Can I put a Betta fish in a four gallon biord sphere? I was was told that's not a good idea because of the flow of the water
Hi. Yes, lots of people do. In terms of air/water flow, betta prefer gentle water circulation and some biOrb pumps can be too high. In that case you would need to add a regulator to the pump to reduce the airflow: kzread.info/dash/bejne/kWmc0bKHZZubidY.html. The key thing is to ensure that your tap/water supply is a good match. They do best best in soft, slightly acidic water with stable conditions. Hard water conditions are not ideal but will generally be fine in water that has pH: 6.0-7.5. Hope that helps Mark
Hi, do you need to use a bi orb heater with the biorb aquarium? Or can you use another branded heater? Thanks
Hi. Not at all :). You just need to choose a heater that is the correct power for the size of your tank. My video on heaters should cover the things you need to consider: kzread.info/dash/bejne/aHh8uqmfccrfeZc.html. If not, just shout. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
this thing shouldve been their standard media that comes in the box
What algae scraper do you recommend for biorb?
Hi. I wouldn't use any scraper on a biOrb/ acrylic tank as they are very likely to permanently scratch the "glass". For cleaning the "glass", this is best done during a water change (when the tank water level has been lowered a bit) using biOrb Cleaning Pads: amzn.to/4dMLbeq. The Pads are one of only a few biOrb products where I don't suggest a cheaper alternative brand - they last for ages anyway! For cleaning plastic plants/ sculptures/ decor that have light marking I suggest running these under tap water and then wiping dry before adding back to the tank. For heavy algae staining on plastic plants/ sculptures/ decor use the diluted bleach dipping method (see my video here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eGuf29yOmba0Zbw.html). Don't use bleach dipping or rinsing under un-treated tap water as a means to clean ceramic media or Pearl Media. This can be occasionally cleaned by removing and then adding to a bucket of extracted tank water. Give it a good rinse then carefully add the media back to the tank. I hope that helps, Mark.
Hi Mark, have you had any experience of the African dwarf frog in a biorb. I do wonder if the ceramic media may not be suitable any info would be great. Thanks
Hi Jamie. I have no direct experience of them but I am aware they are better off on soft substrates (sand) or smooth pebbles. I would guess that Pear Media would be better than the standard biOrb substrate due to the big difference in surfaces. You might need to check... but I think they need shallow(er) aquariums and to also be in a small group (rather than being individual). I did read something about issues with feeding them too much blood worm, again another thing to check. Best, Mark
Thanks Mark, think I'll give them a miss due to the ceramic media. Do you have anymore videos coming up as you do learn alot from them. How's your tanks doing ?
Hi Jamie. Yes, I plan to do a few more videos but my "real job" is taking up a lot of my time at the moment (not to mention demanding kids!) :) All my tanks are doing fine, all ticking along nicely. I'm just waiting for my mosquito larvae containers (in the garden) to start producing so that I can move over to more live feeding. Seems to have taken far longer to get these started this year probably due to, what feels like, a prolonged winter.
That’s good to hear regards the videos, yeah I’m the same (kids) 😂. My tank is doing well only the one would love to have another but it’s keeping on top of the maintenance of them which I’m doing well with just the one running. All the fish I have are doing well without any illness just over a year now. Cheers and all the best
Hello Mark, after watching this video I'm in doubt if I should exchange my Ceramic Media with the Pearl Media. I can see a lot of advantage with the Pearl Media (safer for the fish, less chance for scratches, and a better function of the filter). The only thing I'm not sure of is the way they look. My tank has a natural look, with wood and green colours and I'm not sure if the Pearl Media can give a bit of a "fake" expression because of the colour and the shape, while the Ceramic Media looks more natural. Maybe you can give me a last advice since you have exchanged your Ceramic Media with the Pearl Media. Thanks and all the best to you. Roel
Hi Roel. I would agree that, based on your tank's theme ("freshwater/woodland" type), the ceramic media would probably be more aligned to that look. I guess the Pearl Media lends itself far better to oceanic themes due to its sand based colour and appearance of pebbles. The only tank that I have with a more woodland theme is my Classic 60. This has Pearl Media in it but the design of the Classic tank means that media sits low in the tank's base and is largely out of sight. Hope that helps. Best wishes to you. M
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Hi Mark, thanks for your inspiration. I will follow my first intuition and keep the Ceramic Media. Thanks! Roel
This is great thanks so much
Many thanks. I hope you find it helpful. Best, Mark
Does this hurt the air pump by putting more pressure on it?
Hi. Not that I've ever noticed in the years I have used them, Many pump suppliers provide a regulator in the box with a new pump. Obviously, the tighter you screw them down (to really reduce airflow) the more back-pressure is applied to the pump. However, back pressure applies to any aquarium air pump as you are constantly using the pump to force air through very tiny holes in an air stone. If this is something that concerns you then add a bleed value to the airline instead. This allows a reduction of air pressure by allowing air to escape (i.e. it releases air pressure within the airline). Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Hi I have a 15 ltr biorb tank and was wondering if you reduce the air flow will that affect the filtration system and by the way I think your video's are extremely good and helpful. Alan
Hi Alan. Nice to hear from you. I think there are a range of answers to that one. Generally, reducing down the air flow won't make a great deal of difference to the filtration systems (mechanical and biological). I have tested lower flow and higher flow, in each case for a month, and then compared the amount of waste trapped in the sponge filter. It was virtually the same. The amount of waste getting trapped in the ceramic media is comparable either way too. A gravel vac is always the key way to reduce trapped waste from within/under the substrate media. Air flow can often be too high in a 15l. I think this relates to which air pump comes with the tank. biOrb often include an over specified air pump (i.e. the same model provided to operate the 60 and 105l). The video is aimed more at fixing this issue. The times that you may wish to reduce air flow down is: - a very high air flow through the aquarium (i.e. far too high, likely to be an over specified pump ). - the presence of fish that prefer lower water flow/movement (many of the larger finned fish are adapted for lower water movement) - too much noise being emitted from the tank base (resonating) or from the air pump itself. The reason to not adjust the air flow down is when you don't have any of the above. :-) High air flow is great when you have species that prefer higher oxygen and water movement (often the more streamlined, small fin species). For the initial establishment of bacteria, during cycling, higher dissolved oxygen helps to speed up the process. It makes sense to retain a high air flow (water surface agitation) throughout the cycling period until the beneficial bacteria are established. After that, fine turn it down. I hope that helps, let me know if not. Best wishes, Mark.
Excellent money saving tip Mark. Many thanks for all your help
Thanks James. Yet, it will save you a fortune!! :-)
Hi i just watched most of your videos today. What do you recommend for cleaning a biorb acrylic glass. On my normal glass fish tanks i use a razer blade. I know i can't use this on the Biorb. Biorb sells this rubber cleaner stick but it gets mixed reviews.
Hi. Certainly don't use a blade or anything that will cause abrasion (scrubbers etc). I only really use the biOrb long brush for removing micro bubbles from the glass... it is really good for that (using the blade side). It isn't that great for cleaning though! The only thing I will use to clean the inside of the glass are the biOrb Cleaning Pads. The smooth side works well for most things and the rough side for anything that is more stubborn. I've used them for years with no problems at all. On the outside I use the High gloss polish and cloth (really good product and lasts for ages!). That's all I use! My key focus is probably on water quality, to help reduce diatoms/ algae (and other staining), so I perhaps only wipe the inside of the glass every couple of months. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
I know this is a late comment. Are zebra danios able to be kept in a 30L tank?
Hi. Zebra Danios are a fairly active fish and I would normally suggest a minimum of 30l (ideally). But, yes, a 30 is fine for zebra danios. I've had them, for many years, in a 30. If only stocking the tank with ZDs I would limit the total number to 8 or 9. If it is a new tank, and is needing to be prepared (cycled) to support fish, start with a few initially. Once the tank is cycled you can then increase the number. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thank you sir, much appreciated. I was only thinking of keeping 6-7 of them. I’m assuming adding any other fish or snails would be too much?
Hi again. Adding snails wouldn't really make much difference in terms of the tanks bio load... or water quality. It is mainly the fish number, size, species etc. The number of fish a tank can support is also determined by the tank's water quality and especially the level of nitrate in your water supply. A tap level of 10ppm or more nitrate is going to start to restrict the fish number - as nitrate levels will begin to rise and will trigger the need for more regular and bigger water changes. But, generally, a 30l should support up to 8 to 9 small(ish) fish. The smaller the fish number, the easier it will be to retain a healthy water quality (although most shoal fish prefer to be in numbers of at least 5).
Hello Mark, hope you're doing well. My tank is now almost a year old and would like to know if I have to change the ceramic media and how to do this best. I really can't remember if you have made a video about this. Does the ceramic media have to be changed with new media once a year or is a thoroughly cleaning with tapwater, done in steps within a few weeks sufficient? Thank and best - Roel
Hi Roel. All well here and I hope the same with you. Normally I would suggest that the ceramic media will last for at least several (and more) years. It is good to occasionally give it a rinse through, like I did in this video, and then slowly add it back in. Another thing you can do is occasionally (say every 6-month or 12-months) remove a good handful of the existing media out of the tank and then add the same quantity of new media back in. Don't over do how much you remove and replace in one go and use a bacterial booster to support bacterial recolonization. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks Mark - good advice as always. Best to you 👍🏼 Roel.
Love that 60L Biorb.the plants to.and your channel content.keep it up👍😊
Thank you!! Really nice to hear from people. A big thanks for the support...I hope you find the Channel of help. Best wishes, Mark
Great vids I've been watching these and making plans. Quick question for you though, how high is the Flow 30? biorb on Amazon says 53cm but biorb's own site says 39cm?
Hi. Thanks very much for supporting/ viewing the Channel. I've measured mine for you, using a tape measure, and the full height of the 30l Flow is exactly 39cm. :-) Hope that confirms what you need. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Ahh you're a star thanks, OK I'll trust the main site :)
What can I use if I wanted bottom feeders instead of the rough clay
Hi Angela. The biOrb Pearl Media is specifically designed for true bottom feeders, see here. kzread.info/dash/bejne/f2GHsLagd8KTYqw.html. If you are wanting to choose a non-biOrb product you will need to ensure that the media chosen is good at supporting beneficial bacteria as, unlike most aquariums, the biOrb system relies on the substrate media to act as the tank's biological filter. Various substrate materials could be used in a biOrb but smaller sized materials would require conversion to avoid material not being drawn into the central bubble tube filter system. Hope that helps. Best, Mark
Hi Mark, We have the 60l classic. I bought it 2nd hand over a year ago. It came with the small blue aquarium gravel in it. I replaced with the pearls but am not sure I've used the proper amount. Should the pearls be level in bottom of aquarium and cover the the filter cartridge? Or should the sponge in filter be visible? I can see small amounts of the old blue gravel in the very bottom of the filter area. Does this restrict any filtration? The aquarium is up and running for a year now with only 1 betta and 1 cory catfish. Water change 30% or so weekly. Always shows nitrates in safe range but I'm sure if I didn't do these frequent water changes, it would climb to unsafe levels. Any tips re amount of media and is it possible to get rid of left over blue aquarium gravel that seems to be trapped? Thank you. I love your tutorials and they have been a so helpful. Thank you. Donna
Hi Donna. Really nice to hear from you. Congrats on the Classic 60 - my favourite tank! The amount of Pearl Media needed for a 60 Classic is 3 kilograms (i.e. 3 boxes). Any more than that is probably unnecessary and there will be no advantage to be gained by adding more. The substrate media in a biOrb acts as the tank's "biological filter", it forms the home for beneficial bacteria and the place where waste nutrients from food, fish and waste (ammonia, nitrite) are converted to the safer nitrate. The amount of Pearl Media needed reflects the area of surface required to support the beneficial bacterial colony needed to help maintain the tank and also the amount that allows best circulation of water flow. The size/population of bacterial colony reflects the amount of food/ nutrients available to support the colony. The larger the fish population (waste), the larger the bacterial colony that can be supported. Adding more substrate media would not promote a larger bacterial colony. For the biological filter to work efficiently it should allow good circulation of oxygenated water down and throughout the media. Having the media too deep would likely impede water flow down to the base of the tank (as water flow will always take the easiest route towards the central bubble tube filter). The filter in the bubble tube (sponge, filtration media and filter cartridge) acts as the tanks mechanical filter and is the place where waste particles become trapped and removed from the tanks water. Water is drawn to the bottom of the filter cartridge (and not through the sides or the top of the filter cartridge). Raising the media's depth, so that it sits above the central filtration unit, would not improve filtration and might do the opposite. Reasons to maintain a shallower depth of Pearl Media (e.g. 3kg) - Allows better circulation of water through and down to the bottom of the media depth. - Provides less obstruction to waste particles that would end up getting trapped and held in the substrate - Allows far better regular cleaning of the media (right down to the base of the tank) using a gravel vacuum ( a gravel vac is a vital tool for maintaining a biOrb and ensuring better tank water quality, helping to keep down nitrate levels). Regarding the blue gravel. Ideally this could do with being removed or reduced as it doesn't really add anything to the tank in terms of biological filter. However, it won't be having any real negative impact either! If the blue gravel is small (and therefore sitting under the base of the central filtration cartridge) it may be best to try to remove it if possible to help improve water flow below the cartridge. To do this, I would attempt to do this manually (by hand)- you would probably need to drop the tank's water by 50% to get easier access. Alternatively, if the gravel is small in size, a traditional water syphon might be able to suck it up during water changes. As larger syphons tend to have a strong draw on water flow, make sure the end of the pipe has a fish guard to avoid your cory going on an unexpected journey!! I hope that helps. Best, Mark
Thank you so much for your in-depth explanation of filtration system and the use of pearls! I literally had to empty the aquarium (saved water, pearls, fish, plants, etc) in pails as I quickly took out all of the pearl media, took off the cover that sits in bottom of tank and literally sprayed tiny tiny pieces of compacted blue rocks with the kitchen sprayer! It was easy that way. Got it all! I think I have the right amount of pearls in there now. I wanted to make sure I don't have too many for proper 'draw' through filter media. My cory doesn't seem able to really clean under the pearls as they don't move much for him to move around them. That's another reason I was wondering if he was a good choice for the set up. Your channel has helped me in so many ways to get the most out of our aquarium. Thank you so much and for taking the time to help me. Donna
Hi Donna. Great to hear from you again and I'm glad you managed to get the blue gravel out. That sort of thing can be an involved operation, but you did it! :) I think the cory is fine for what you have (and a good match with betta) although they are a social/shoal fish and are best kept in a group of at least 5-6, often more. What cory species is it? Best, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb It's a julii. I don't know if theres enough room for more of them because of the small bottom of biorb. I would like more tho. What do you think?
Yes, okay I know the species... although I don't have them (I have pygmy which tend to be less bottom focused than all other cory species and spend a lot of time in mid-water). Most cory are kept on sand or gravel and ideally shouldn't kept on media with very rough surface (e.g. biOrb ceramic media). I think it is fine to be kept on Pearl though, surface is fairly smooth. I'd be tempted to get another couple of them especially if yours spends a lot of time hiding away? You have 60l so a tank that size can certainly have more fish than you have, but I agree about the limitations of media surface in a Classic. The alternative would be to add another shoal species as it is likely the julii would feel more adventurous with an added number of fish. Best, Mark
Hi Mark, thanks for all your videos. I just want to check I am understanding it right, is this tank already cycled and then you are adding colony too when you add the fish or is this treated tap water only and then when you add colony it is effectively cycling it very quickly and you can add fish straight away. Thank you!
Hi Alice. The video is describing fish-in cycling. The starting point is a tank full of dechlorinated water. You add some fish (hardy species are best) and a bacterial product at the same time and cycle on that basis. The added bacterial product boosts the speed normally needed for bacteria to develop and the fish provide the nutrient (ammonia) required to activate and promote the growth of the bacteria. Colony is a good product although some people struggle with cycling using it (I think this is possibly related to differences in water quality between different areas/households and also that Colony requires fairly specific conditions for it to work best). Aquavitro Seed (150ml) is probably a better choice for cycling as it requires less specific water parameters - and I get far less people reporting cycling problems: charterhouse-aquatics.com/products/aquavitro-seed-150ml?variant=40199889846407¤cy=GBP&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwwr6wBhBcEiwAfMEQs_VOspSiKXX9O5zyFCfGbRSvpJ3Z_Y5AoWEwkFuMPOihKF_kBPLsSRoClywQAvD_BwE. Regardless of how you cycle a tank, the use of an aquarium heater and having good air flow will always aid cycling and the time it takes... because these conditions promote faster bacterial growth. If you click on the Description associated with this video this may also help: kzread.info/dash/bejne/aquFldKvgNqec7A.html. However, do feel free to drop me a line if you need any further help or support. Best wishes, Mark
Thanks for sharing your videos. 🎉😊 Will some day try one of these ball aquariums .
Thank you so much for all of your helpful videos. I have been binge watching them as I am trying to set up my new (second hand) biorb tube 35l. I am trying to do a fishless cycle, so this video about water parameters is really helpful. I am debating if I need to reduce my nitrates before water changes now, as it is fairly high from my tap water, according to the water supplier website. I did have one question that I hoped you might be able to help with? As I am trying to cycle fishless, one of the steps is to replicate the ammonia that would be produced by the stocking level of fish by adding fish food in similar quantities to if it were stocked. However, the rules on the food do it based on time for the fish to eat. But I don't have fish yet. Would you be able to help with figuring out roughly the amount for a low to medium stocked 30 to 35 litre? (Around 8 nano fish at a guess) best wishes, Krissie
Hi, Nice to hear from you. Certainly, if you have high nitrate it is something to consider trying to reduce. What level do you have in your tap water? Ideally nitrates should be kept as low as possible (and, below 20ppm) but it isn't always easy to achieve. If you have higher levels than 15-20ppm it would probably mean having to use a filter to take the level down. I have +20ppm high levels in my tap but I use a filter to get the level down to around zero for water changes. It makes a big difference! In terms of fish less cycle, the use of food to provide the ammonia can be a bit hit-and-miss/unpredictable and also relies on the feed beginning to breakdown in the tank and then releasing ammonia. Different types of food will also release different levels of ammonia. Normally, one small pinch of food per day would replicate the food needed for 8 small fish. Things can get a bit messy (waste build up, water quality) in the tank doing it that way. If, and when, I do fish less cycle I always use a bacterial product and then apply ammonium chloride as the food source (rather than fish food). This allows more certainty regarding the ammonia levels being added and it is far simpler. I have always used Dr Tims amzn.to/3TrSqz3. Ideally ammonia levels during cycling should be maintained at or above 2ppm and below 5ppm. One drop per litre of Dr Tims ammonia (in your case 35 drops) will get the tank level to about 2ppm, but I would tend to try to get the level to about 3ppm. It is then just a matter or undertaking regular water testing of the ammonia level and adding suitable levels of ammonia to keep the tank at above 2ppm until the tank is cycled. Liquid (i.e. reagent) water test kits are far better than test strips for this approach as they provide more accurate readings. I hope that helps. Just shout if you need any further advice etc. Best, Mark
Sorry, should have added... If using fish food the approach is similar to using ammonium chloride. You are trying to maintain an ammonia reading of above 2ppm (to support bacterial growth) and less than 5ppm (to avoid a stall in the cycling). Food amount and frequency needs to be adjusted up and down throughout the cycling in order to keep the water ammonia level in the 2-5ppm bracket (increasing food or reducing food amounts is the method to adjust the water's ammonia level). Again, regular water testing is really key to help keep on top of the changing ammonia levels. I hope that makes sense.
Can you please post the links to your aquarium decor?
Hi. If you go to the Description section of this video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/fXmFpsishdywkag.html. The links are all added there. Hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
I really enjoy watching your videos and very much enjoy seeing the tanks you put together because they are so beautiful. I really love the color scheme you chose for this tank I can't believe how utterly beautiful it is. I'd love to say I would choose the same exact pieces but I don't think I could afford that much decor for mine or actually I just won't pay some of biorbs high prices for their decor. Yes there decor is elegant and very fitting for their tanks, but it also is just a tad pricey for my taste. I think I would go with one of the kits..but I definitely will get that anchor cause it just jumps out in that white tank it is beautiful. Thank you so much for sharing and explaining what you do it helps me to feel more confident about setting up my own tank.
Hi Cassy. Really nice to hear from you. Yes, there is a high cost involved in using biOrb products to decorate one of their tanks, and especially if you do it all in one go. There are other products that are far cheaper, especially artificial plants such as these: amzn.to/4a6j6w7 and amzn.to/49asddU. I agree though... the anchor design is nice and is also specifically designed to work with the central bubble tube. Best wishes, Mark
Can you do a video on how to do a water change/clean the classic biorb tank please 😊
Hi. I did a video on water changes in the early days of the Channel here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ka6WmtZwp7nTgs4.html and also a video on changing the sponge filter and filter media here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/o3mjz8l-dZXYqMo.html. Hopefully they cover the basics of how to change water etc (also read the description section of both videos). I nearly always undertake water changes nowadays using an aquarium vacuum as that is a far easier approach when compared to using a traditional syphon. I hope that helps. Best, Mark
My daughter now has my old biorb cube and she set up 10 days ago, thought she had the water temperature ok as it was fluctuating between 25.8 during the day and going down to 24.5 at night. And all her levels are 0 for nitrates, nitrite and chlorine. She introduced 3 platys, 3 zebra danios and 3 zebra tetras and a shrimp 4 days ago Shes noticed this morning the platys have white spot. Shes bought interpet white spot but its says remove all media. Do you have any advice?
Hi Julie. Sorry to hear about the whitespot - but great to hear your daughter is showing an interest in the hobby. The water temp variation is fine - it is mainly sudden changes in water parameters that can impact fish (e.g. quick changes in temp, pH etc). The variation you describe will be changing gradually... similar to what it would do in the natural environment. In terms of applying medication, this is typical guidance for many types of medication and it just relates to removing the filter media in the central tube filter system. Products such as activated carbon will remove the medication from the water meaning the treatment would not be applied properly. All you need to do is remove the central filter from the tank, take out the filter media material, put the sponge back in and then add the central tube filter back in. When the treatment period has finished the filter media can be added back to the filter. Hope that helps. Mark
White spot can often appear in newly added fish, this linked to the stress (lowered immune system) of being transported and released into a new tank.