Columbus Epoxy Flooring is owned and operated by a father and son team (Todd and Trent Martin).
Columbus Epoxy Flooring isn’t just another flooring company - We are a premium epoxy coating installer committed to doing the industry’s best work on every project. This philosophy sets us apart from our competitors.
There are a lot of businesses and independent contractors offering epoxy coatings for concrete floors, but when precision, quality, and real-world guarantees matter, clients turn to us. That’s because we have a reputation of being customer service-centered, and being able to manage projects and timelines that other epoxy flooring companies can’t.
We believe that the most important kinds of success speak for themselves.
Columbus Epoxy Flooring is known for our firm commitment to key values. We believe in standing behind our customers, vendors, and employees, and expect the best from them in return.
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when you rinse the second time, do you use clean water to rinse off the bleach, or you use the same mixed solution with bleach?
I just use clean water to rinse with no solution added
would it be equally efficient to flat microfiber mop heads (like 18") instead of sponge mop? thank you for a good content.
It depends on how much texture is in the floor. If the floor was left smooth enough you can definitely microfiber mop it. The method I showed in the video worked pretty for most installed floors generally. If there's too much texture in the floor it may be difficult to clean with the microfiber mop.
Great Job! Though I am not sure if it is safe to use bleach. Question - I need to do cleaning on old epoxy covered floor with black marks, do you think this method could help? I with could email you the pictures of said epoxy floor. thanks!I
Thank you for the comment. As I mentioned in the video you dont want to use too much bleach, only about a cap full or two which equates to about 2-3 oz. I only use bleach because it doesn't leave a residue behind if the floor isn't rinsed well enough. Another cleaner you can try that's specifically designed for Epoxy can be purchased with these guys.. www.epoxyresinouscleaner.com Do you know what the black marks are from? You can email the photos to me at [email protected] and I'd be happy to take a look.
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 thanks, emailed you!
I was told NOT to use bleach on epoxy covered floors as it could damage the coating completely. Please advise
You don't want to use too much. Only about 2-3oz. I've cleaned my personal garage with this method for years and never had an issue. That said, the top coat also matters. We always use a polyaspartic for our garage floor top coats. I only like using the bleach because its doesnt leave the residue behind if the floor isnt rinsed well enough. Another safe cleaner you can try is ERC that you can buy from these guys. www.epoxyresinouscleaner.com
dude you look nervous like your doing this against your will you look like you have a gun to your head
Grinding I think people can also use safety glasses. Thanks for the video!
Would’ve love if you’d have label the mixings
Thats gonna crack...
What mixture did you use to fill voids?
We just used 100% solids epoxy for this project
That doesn't look like a hard job but nice work
It was a great video.. you just gained a new follower. Ask if you use 4 tests in the first 100sft if they are less than 500 then it would be 2 tests? Thx
Thank you for the comment! For under 500 square feet, 2 tests is fine
When you click the link to the products you’re presented with a password. You can’t see the products. What’s the password?
We currently have the site under maintenance so were having to take orders manuallyfor the time being. If you email me your product details (square footage, repair work needed) I will send a quote for the materials you will need.
You need the square footage of my stem walls?
Are you wanting to coat just the walls and not the floor? I'd need the square footage of whatever you're going to coat just to make sure you'd have enough material. You can email me at [email protected] as well
Why coat the wall with concrete?
Why place bricks on the garage wall.
This looks great! I’m wanting to do this in a basement. What tools and materials were used? I’m not sure where to begin!
The most important part is always the prep. You'll want to get a hold of a diamond grinder to grind the concrete and open up the pores, this will help to bring out the color in the concrete and allow the coating to bond. I would focus most of your research on the prep side as that will take most of your time and is the most important step. We used a 100% solids epoxy primer and high wear urethane top coat in this video. If you are interested in purchasing material please let me know and I'd be happy to get you what you'd need.
Best video
What you're saying is important . No need for the competing music.
I love how clean you single colour epoxy goes down so nicely and your prep is fantastic. I would love to see a detailed video explaining your process and how you patch imperfections and the differences. You and josh jones rock!
Thank you! We'll continue to put more content out. Josh does an excellent job as well!
Great vid!
Is this the way you repair bubbles if formed in the polyaspartic top coat randomly? I have a job that outside the recoat window and is cured but i have about 15 bubbles. Would you still see them if sanded and recoat polyaspartic in low level lighting? Or should i deglaze the whole floor with pads and sand to deglaze and recoat?
You can try to repair the bubbles with this method. Make sure to sand the bubbled areas very well to help blend with the rest of the floor. There's a very good chance you will notice the areas you touched up, but repairs normally blend well with traffic over time.
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 TY, i managed to blend them spot on! Ty for your help 🙂
@@jayson-8202 I'm glad it helped!
How is this not the most watched channel on garage floor coating. Great work explaining all aspects of the job, I've been binging the videos!
Thank you! I'm glad the content has been helpful. We're hoping to post a lot more in the future
What preparation do you recommend for a brand new concrete garage floor? New construction and water cured for ten days and kept under 6mil poly the entire time to prevent oil and dirt from getting into the surface. Surface was power troweled to a smooth finish.
For all new concrete pours you must wait at least 28 days for the concrete to cure out before applying a coating over the surface. Even with the concrete being new you will still have to prep the surface in order to open up the pores and allow the coating to soak in an adhere to the surface. We highly recommend you mechanically prepare the surface by diamond grinding if you can access the equipment to do so. You can also consider acid etching the concrete as well for a more DIY friendly option. Acid etching isn't the preferred method but I've seen the coating hold up well in a residential setting when a high quality coating is used.
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 thank you for the response. What high quality coating do you recommend? Looking to do an epoxy with heavy flakes for some slip resistance and an aspartic clear coat.
@@banjax80 We can sell you the same material I used in our video. If you email me at [email protected] with your garage dimensions and maybe a couple photos of the floor I'd be happy to send you a quote on the materials you'd need.
Great result! how did you tackle the oil stains to one stick and blend them for the final result? Amazing vids! keep up the great work!
Oil is more difficult to deal with and in many cases you can't entirely get rid of it. We had to have the concrete degreased before we started the project, but still had to grind the floor multiple times to remove as much of the oil staining as possible. After you coat the concrete the oil stains generally blend pretty well thankfully.
Is there an adequate alternative to grinding the floor? I heard an acid wash can work. No idea how I would get the commercial grinder and vacuum home without a pickup truck at least. Also, I didn't see you scrape or sand the border walls. Was that done also?
As professionals we never acid etch a floor. That being said I've seen many people acid etch the concrete and the floor has help up well. Generally most residential garages don't receive an excessive amount of traffic so acid etching combined with a high quality coating will hold up fine. If you acid etch though you want to make sure the solution has been neutralized very well so non of the acid is left over. We have a separate video on coating the stem wall here. kzread.info/dash/bejne/oH-V26STfbuspbA.html
NIce work! Was this completed over 3-4 days?
Thank you! This project was completed over 3 days.
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 Is the patching compound you use 100% solids with fine sand? Then leave overnight etc?
@@jayson-8202 We used a 100% solids epoxy thickened up to a paste consistency. That material generally set us enough within an hour so we can coat over top of it. Sometimes it's wise to let the patch set up though is the patches are deep enough.
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 Thank you 🙂
🔥🔥🔥
What do you charge for this service?
It really depends on the surface condition, size of the floor and how thick the adhesive is. In many cases it will cost around $1.50-$2/square for floor prep
Love this tranformation!!
Thank You!
Other than chipping away the parts that were failing did you have to do anything to the epoxy that was still remaining on the walls? Such as scuff it up, sand it with orbital sander or use a grinding wheel?
Yes, we did also run an angle grinder with a 4inch cup wheel over the surface. to suff up the wall and remove any failing coating that was left over
From down under,great video,well explained Thank you .
Thank you!
thats a BIG before and after.....looks really nice!
Thank you!
Where can I buy these materials?
Please reach out to me at [email protected] We're having to fix an issue with our site wo we have to take orders manually for the time being.
Great video. What grits did you use?
We started out aggressively with 16 grit to remove a bunch of contaminants and other coatings. We switched over to 30 grit just to tighten up the surface. Sometimes we'll even go up further to a 70 grit depending on the coatings we're applying and condition of the concrete.
How do you know you have enough confetti to lay down? I have a 20x20 garage and I bough 5 of the small bags, but is that enough?
You generally need 16lbs per 100 square feet. So for 400 square feet you'd need 64lbs. The flake is sold in 40lb boxes though so you'd order a total of 80lbs of flake.
Well, I'm studying these Garage floor videos, all of your 1,2,3 , car garages are OK, but I'm planning a much larger garage, my garage floor will be expensive, that's why I'm playing the lottery ,
Do you know how many square feet the garage is? Does the garage have control joints? If the garage has control joints you can break it up into smaller sections so it will be easier to install the coating.
Wow 👍
Can you recommend anyone in the Northern Kentucky area “Union KY”?
For residential projects I'm not sure. You might reach out to "Your1dayfloor". I've heard decent things about them
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 thank you.
How did the stem walls/perimeter go from white brick/cement to finished, to match the floor?
Hello, I believe you're referring to the stem walls. Ill upload another video soon showing how we coated those. We're planning to add more products as well to make the process even easier
Great video. I got my floors done a few years ago and they used polyaspartic for a base coat. Floor was done in 6-7 hours. Has held up so well. Just need to mop the floors to get them new again
That's awesome! I'm glad to hear you're enjoying your floor, they definitely make the garage feel like an extension of the home. Polyaspartic floors are good floors too. Every contractor has their preference on what they use and why they use them.
Is the floor still mushy? Like if you pressed a spoon into it, would it put a dent into the floor then bounce back over time?
@@nickp3173 not even a little bit. Polyaspartic should be physically hard
@@2mustange I watched another video of this fairly popular youtuber, and it was a few weeks after he finished the project.. it was still soft lol. Guess he didn't mix it correctly.
@@nickp3173 No, once the coating is fully cured the surface is hard. It's almost like a very hard plastic shell on top of the concrete.
Beautiful job! I’m surprised they didn’t paint the garage walls first. That would drive me nuts to have a beautiful floor like that and unfinished walls.
I agree. Our customers commonly have their walls painted when they do the floor. It really helps to freshen up the garage!
You want them to paint after. The paint will soak flake in
Was this an epoxy coating with WB Eurethane
We used 100% solids Epoxy for the base and a high wear, high solids urethane top coat
Best instructional videos on here for this application. After watching I’m inspired to DIY. Do you have any videos that show specifically how to address control joints? I want to honor the joint and leave it there but do I have to clean it out or grind into the crack ? Or do I just surface grind the floor and that’s good enough ? Most of the control joints don’t reach all the way to the wall,leaving about 2” of uncut concrete that tends to hairline crack. How do you suggest handling that ? If you are spreading the epoxy or top coat how do you stop it from filling the joint in ? Should I brush a little epoxy down on the inside of each edge of the control joint? Do you just toss flakes over the whole floor then scrape them out of the joint after drying? So many questions lol
All good questions! Unfortunately the garage in this video didn't have control joints so we couldn't address them. I'd like to do a video in the future to discuss the joints more in depth. Do you have joints that were saw cut in the floor or were they troweled (shaped in a "v")?
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 Thanks for getting back! They are saw cut joints
@@cjgropper Saw cuts are a lot easier to address. When the concrete is installed the cuts will always be shy of the wall about 2-3 inches because the saw is too big to get any closer to the wall. It's okay to leave the joints this way or you can cut them closer to the wall using an angle grinder with a concrete cut wheel. To prep the joints you can run the angle grinder with the cut wheel down the joints to clean them out. If the joints aren't too dirty you can also simple clean them out using a screwdriver or 5in1 tool and follow up by vacuuming them out really well. When applying the basecoat use a chip brush to coat inside the joint a bit and remove any excess. Just throw the flake normally. After the basecoat is cured and you begin removing the excess flake, run a screwdriver down the joints to break off any loose flake and open the joints back up. Treat the topcoat the same way as the basecoat. Use a chip brush to coat inside the joints and remove any excess coating. Another great thing about the joints is they can be used to make the installation a bit easier as well. Use the joints as stopping points and coat each section separately so you can coat the floor in smaller sections rather than having to install the whole floor at once.
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 Thank you sir!
Hello. I have a new garage new home. How much to do my garage standard 2 car
Wow! Definitely one of the best new videos out there right now. What was used to skim the concrete twice?
Thank you! We used 100% solids Epoxy for the patch and primer. We did also mix some concrete dust with the Epoxy to give it some color, because if you install most epoxies too thick they will look white.
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 Great job man
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 Did you mix fine sand as well?
@@jayson-8202 Not in the video. You can mix sand in the material to help fill deeper voids. You'll have to regrind the patchwork though since the surface will be rough.
What size notched squeegee do you use for the primer coat, and main coat? Do you order them from Midwest rake? And how much open time is there before you broadcast the chips? And does the final coat use a notched, or flat squeegee? Thanks
Use a 1/8" notch squeegee for the prime and base coat. 1/8" notch squeegee will apply the coating around 150-200 square feet per gallon. For the top coat use a flat squeegee. For most epoxies you have around 30-40 minutes to throw the flake into the base coat. If you're using a faster set coating (like polyurea or polyaspartic) you'll have much less time to throw the flake
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 awesome. I appreciate you replying. I do poured urethane sports flooring, but looking into adding epoxy to the repertoire.
Some the floor coating option like flake will probably be a good addition for you guys. We're getting into product sales, I'd you guys need help on finding good material and advice, please let me know. Well try to help as much as we can.
If you need* . Forgive my spelling lol
@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 great. Thank you
If I use dishwashing liquid and water mixture, can I use a steam cleaner or a carpet cleaner?
Steam cleaner is fine!
What was used to stain the floor. Looks amazing .
This floor was just a grind and seal. When you apply 100% solids epoxy over the concrete it pulls out a natural brown color in the concrete that makes it look stained.
great tip, i have this issue as well and literally just tried this technique for the first time the other day and it worked great.
hey this video is really well made and the flloors look great, nice job. I'm here in southern california and primarily do 2, 3 or 4 car garages with flake and fast cure polyurea. I've been uploading some videos of the whole process if you care to check them out.
What is the main element that makes the epoxy floor so durable especially with the example of the 6000 lb coil barely nicking it
Epoxy is able to withstand a fair amount of impact and abrasion because of its nature. Prep is so important because the prep will determine how well the Epoxy is able to adhere to the surface and withstand abuse like impact from heavy objects. If the the surface wasn't prepped in that instance of the coil, the floor would've started to fail in that area because the bond would've been broken and created a weak point. We do recommend serverely damaged areas receive treatment quickly to prevent potential additional failure in the future. In that particular instance the nick in the coating was only about the size of a quarter which we did repair for them. The degree of damage is also dictated on how an object falls on the coating. For example, if the coil fell flat on the coating, there's a good chance the coating may not have been damaged at all. However, since the coil fell at an angle the sharper side fell into the coating first which did slightly gouge the floor.
How much do you charge for your services
There are a lot of variable to determine pricing such as repair work needed, number of coats, system to be applied and the total square footage. The average cost for a 1000 square foot project on a flake install with minimal repair works is around $4-$6 per square foot. If you reach out to us on our contact page at columbusepoxyflooring.com/contact/ we'd be happy to answer any questions you have and give you a better idea on pricing.
i am cleaning a dealership with high priced cars. epoxy floors no flakes clear coat with design. floors are scratched up and have tire marks. how hard is it to maintain these floors in order to leave them spotless and clean like if they have been just finished.. do you need to sweep every time before moving these cars and what product can you use to remove the tire marks without damaging the floors. spray nine is a strong de greaser would this damage the floors?
An epoxy floor without any media (such as flake or sand) in it will scratch and abrade easier. If the area is getting a lot of daily traffic you should clean it more often to remove any dirt and debris that can abrade the surface. Mopping the floor daily will help to keep the debris down from the daily traffic and every once in a while (maybe one a month) do a thorough cleaning of the entire area. The top coat on the floor will make a huge difference on how the easily the floor scratches and abrades as well. We always recommend a urethane or polyaspartic be used over an epoxy system because they are designed with more chemical and scratch/abrasion resistance. If the floor is getting scratched up enough you can most likely bring it back to life by having someone come in and sand the floor with a fine sandpaper or sanding screen to abrade the surface then apply a clear urethane over the floor. I'm not familiar with spray nine. Id recommend you test it in an inconspicuous area to see if it affects the finish. I've heard a lot of people say they like cleaning with ERC which is designed for resinous coatings. You can check them out here.. www.epoxyresinouscleaner.com/
How to I fix a similar sized burn damage from firework sparks on a solid color epoxy flooring on a balcony?
It's hard to say without seeing it. Just a burn may not be that bad. We've had burn from welding sparks before on our floors. I was able to sand most of the burn marks out. If you're able to sand the burn mark out without sanding off the coating entirely, you can clear coat the area with a resinous urethane or polyaspartic coatings. If you're not able to sand it off you'll have to fix the area with a tinted urethane. Sherwin Williams sells a urethane called Rexthane 1 (depending on the state you live in) you can use and they're able to custom tint the color.