question ? how you conect the tester to a octupus tracer ?
@subalmistri4464 ай бұрын
Got one for 25 Eur. FM works fine but other L K M doesn't even with long wire antenna. What could be the reason? Other issue is air is leaking from the radio front panel and top side does rattle. If i put some heavy weight sound is better.
@GS-yg9wk7 ай бұрын
at 20x magnification, craters should be visible. I don't see them here
@Rivenworld10 ай бұрын
Good battery hack, I have one of these (love these old meters) and managed to get a 15V battery for mine.
@99solutionsit1010 ай бұрын
Philips is used because the whole transport was theirs.
@andershenriksen699711 ай бұрын
Sikke en gang bavl! Mål dog modstanden over spolen! Ingen hokudpokus i dét 🤦♂️
@andershenriksen699711 ай бұрын
That's a good wending ... Du skal skifte samtlige elektrolytter og trimme LB, MB, KB, FM, og er der stereo-dekoder, skal den også trimmes. Alle kontakter, trimmepotmetre og potmetre skal renses, så de virker igen. De genstridige af slagsen udskiftes. Selen-ensretteren skal skiftes. Den har begrænset levetid, og røgen fra den er møg-giftig. Når jeg åbner et stykke elektronik, så sørger jeg for, at det ikke skal åbnes igen de næste 50 år. Måske derfor, jeg ikke har fået klager i de 25 år, jeg har arbejdet med den slags .... But you vil hellere make a kedelig video on youtube that shows your dovenskab ...
@5commandomerc11 ай бұрын
Dude! Just use a 18v cordless tool batt. And build an adjustable, constant voltage regulator for the princely sum of $5cad. I've given up on one use batt. I bought this meter Same model but older 1940's, brand new, some scratches, still n.o.s....paid $10cad no tax! I'm currently, no pun intended, playing with LiPo's of all sizes.... clearly I have ADD...
@chriswhitworth7793 Жыл бұрын
A bit confusing to use the low ranges as a demo for the first 8 minutes....But its OK for beginners
@runepedersenDK Жыл бұрын
Pudsigt at modellen her går til 108 MHz, når mange senere kun går til 104 MHz på FM-skalaen. Beomaster 901, 2000, 3000, 3400, 4000 og 6000 er blot nogle af dem som kun går til 104 MHz.
@jmqwert Жыл бұрын
Holy moly, just a suggestion, new sharp edged gold plated multimeter probes seems needed ;-). Being sharp keeps them in place and the goldplating makes a much better connection.. But interesseting to see the use of Mr.Carlssons signal tracer!
@jmqwert Жыл бұрын
On first sight, the red capacitors, is the main coolpit of much B&O, from that time area, braking down. As a thum rule, always change these kind of electrolytic capacitors on bare sight!
@DoNaSbaR Жыл бұрын
Hi! I come watching this video because today I start trying play a CD in an unit like yours. The display and functions working well but no sound out on main output except in headphones. After a couple of hours I accidentaly discover the problem. The output RCA females sockets in the unit, both had (very) bad cold solderings in their terminal on circuit board. Problem fixed and now its working great!
@dkmmhdk Жыл бұрын
I had the exact same fault on a CD player I bought on a flea-market. Resoldered the terminals on the PCB and all's well.
@richardshort45872 жыл бұрын
Do these meters need to lie flat when in use, or can they be standing up, or propped at an angle.
@dkmmhdk2 жыл бұрын
Just did a quick test, and it looks like my meter reads the same if it lays down or stands up.
@richardshort45872 жыл бұрын
@@dkmmhdk Thank you for the swift reply.
@scottstevens84212 жыл бұрын
These meters will work both ways, but are normally calibrated laying flat
@thephilpott2194 Жыл бұрын
Best to be laid with scale upwards, as per instructions on the rear. This is even more important If the movement is slightly out of balance.
@chriswhitworth7793 Жыл бұрын
I learned how to use one when I worked in a TV repair shop at 13. So I bought a 2nd hand one (about 1965). Its still in regular use! Works both ways up!
@thewaronthewest.9262 жыл бұрын
Thanks I got a 15v Alkaline copy for £7 delivered.
@thephilpott2194 Жыл бұрын
Yes, but alkaline button cells have a very short life and usually leak sooner or later causing damage. Lithium metal button cells are far better, plus.....you only need five of them. From memory i used CR1025.
@wojtas-42 жыл бұрын
Mam identyczne radio, praktycznie w stanie idealnym, zaskakująca dobra jakość dźwięku.Wszystkie przełączniki potometry są sprawne, tylko niestety bardzo BUCZY transformator. Wiem z doświadczenia że rzadko da się naprawić tą nie miłą przypadłość (usterkę).
@BjornV782 жыл бұрын
The output socket doesn't need grounding, but a metal housing that use mains power (120V or 240V) definitely needs grounding.
@dkmmhdk2 жыл бұрын
There is nothing connected to the GND of the output socket, the socket that I got just happened to have a GND terminal. Most wall-outlets here do not have a safty-earth, so it is not possible to ground the front-plate.
@BjornV782 жыл бұрын
@@dkmmhdk when the live wire of your mains come loose from the primary side of the transformer, and touch the metal core of the transformer, and you toch the metal front, you will get zapped without a proper grounding. Showing this for educational use on KZread is not a good example and can cause serious damage or dead to viewers who replicate this.
@BjornV782 жыл бұрын
@@dkmmhdk when you use mains power in combination with metal that can be touched by hand, the metal parts need proper grounding.
@circuitmonkey66533 жыл бұрын
Nice repair Mikael!
@dkmmhdk3 жыл бұрын
Thanks.
@manpreetsandhu38853 жыл бұрын
Bro how to open led
@dkmmhdk3 жыл бұрын
The case is just hold together with plastic clips, so you need to find a suitable tool to get the clip loose. Special spudger-tools exist, I've read a suggestion of using an old credit-card but that doesn't seem to work well for me. I tend to use a flat-bladed screwdriver, but be aware that this can leave marks in the case. If you look at about 1 min you could get an idea of the clips.
@circuitmonkey66533 жыл бұрын
I like that auto transformer very much. Mine is an old bench model that is going to be difficult to mount. Nice job!
@circuitmonkey66533 жыл бұрын
Very nice! Thank you for pointing it out. Also, I guess I haven't been by your channel for a while as I notice you have added quite a bit of content, so I made sure to ring the bell and get notifications.
@jacekniec7623 жыл бұрын
it is 20 X. normally Moon by naked eye is 9 mm, I use with telescope 20 X mag very often.Moon fits 60 deg.eyepiece. Nice video.
@alexvikendi1768 Жыл бұрын
What do you mean by "fit 60° eyepiece"? I'm looking for binoculars to observe the moon craters
@etrusco19733 жыл бұрын
Ciao Mikael, what do you think about my Technics? The cd's doesn't read the discs and you hear some rumors from laser system. kzread.info/dash/bejne/eHeN17mDaLydqqQ.html Best regards
@dkmmhdk3 жыл бұрын
Hi Etrusco. From your video clip it seems like it is not probably detecting or not able to focus on the CD. Have you tried cleaning the lens? Just try a dry cotton swab if it's only dust. If the player is located in a room were people are smoking (ore there is a fire place) you may need to put a cleaning solvent on the swab, like a glass cleaner or screen cleaner, be careful with an alcohol based cleaner like isopropyl-alcohol as this might course a plastic lens to become matt. If this doesn't help I would next check for tracking/focus issues and check the RF/eye-pattern with a scope to see if the level is too low (dirty or week laser). If you lift the clamp you should be able to see the lens, and when you close the drawer without a disk the lens should move up and down to try to focus. WARNING, NEWER LOOK STRAIGHT IN TO THE LENS, only look from the side, possibility of eye damage. Let me know if this helps you. You should be able to easy download the manual for free by just searching for the model number.
@24gradi3 жыл бұрын
@@dkmmhdk Thanks for your help. I cleaned the lens with an alcohol solution, I hope I have not increased the problems. Today the player turns on but no longer runs like in the video.
@pubgplayer90643 жыл бұрын
It's very shecki ..
@dkmmhdk3 жыл бұрын
Sorry had no camera stand/tripod at hand, so handheld. at lage zoom ranges the tiniest movement becomes large.
@pubgplayer90643 жыл бұрын
@@dkmmhdk it's ok brother
@zynthesis3 жыл бұрын
So how did you get the backing off?
@dkmmhdk3 жыл бұрын
If you are referring to the back cover, it is just hold in place with plastic clips, so it has to be pried open. I most likely used a pocket-knife and some flat-bladed screwdrivers for this.
@tanmeowsoon69924 жыл бұрын
hi sir good day i want to make a tube tester can i buy the drawing from you my email ([email protected])
@cruxinterfaces4 жыл бұрын
Very informative and well done, we will be at CES please subscribe to our for similar content!
@kermitfrog18974 жыл бұрын
This looks very similar to my first scope which was a Telequipment single channel
@circuitmonkey66534 жыл бұрын
Nice job! Thank you!
@ke4est4 жыл бұрын
Good Job Mikael!
@garybevis86914 жыл бұрын
Good repair Mikael. Thanks for sharing.
@ovi_44 жыл бұрын
Great repair tnx. for sharing.
@banzai18734 жыл бұрын
Cool. What screw size you used?
@dkmmhdk4 жыл бұрын
I think is was M4, but I just went for the largest that I've hat with matching nuts that could fit the bracket
@Thujaplicata14 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much Mikeal, you've made this so much simpler than I thought it was going to be. All I really need to buy is the etch any fluid now! I really appreciate you taking the time and doing this. I'm sure it will help a lot of people!
@dkmmhdk4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your kind words. I've got a question onMmr. Carlson's lab (Patreon) how this old way was done, so I thought the quickest and easiest way for me was to show it on a video instead of writing a description. This video is done without any editing, just preparing all things, then record preview and upload. Editing can be real time-consuming.
@Thujaplicata14 жыл бұрын
@@dkmmhdk that was me on Mr. Carlsons lab! I was actually thinking of starting my own youtube channel, in the same soft of fashion you describe your video here. I don't know much about editing either.
@peteb24 жыл бұрын
Hello Mikael. I went so far as to import a ream of it to my country the precise same paper Mr Carlson suggests in his videos (had to import it because it's formatted as imperial size and not standard A4). This then played havoc as my laser printer had problems taking it. Next there was an issue with the quality of the laser printing. One machine has a permanent smart-toner save use so that the edge (1 to 2mm) is nice and dark but larger and it's lighter. I bought a more professional printer! Next issue is making sure there's no chance of any oils etc on the copper after sanding. I tried using isopropyl alcohol but even then it didn't fully clean the surface. So far the best has been CRC carburetor cleaner but its expensive and truly STINKS. It dissolves almost anything else like plastics so have to be careful. Then after a break of luck i obtained an A3 heat laminater cheaply which on hi setting is as Mr Carlson says runs screaming hot. I found an old ordinary clothes iron just not hot enough. Finally after that i had to soak the paper off the board having it copper side upper most in water, leaving it to sit for some time as the paper fibers break apart and using a soft rubbing with a clean finger tip helps. On double sided boards it's a double fiddle as you have to turn it over each time ! I notice that the bearings that support the rollers in the thermal laminater are distorting as they are a plastic & have begun to show signs of melting so my next project is to make a set in brass using my lathe when i have time.... Then i can mod the machine to run even hotter! I think the secret of transferring the toner to the copper is the copper has to be really, really CLEAN of any kind of contaminate, especially oils and the laser print needs to be done on a really good machine or one with a not too old a toner cartridge & drum. Since i only ever print PCB layouts it does very little works so sits for months so I regularly take the toner cartridge out which is a sealed unit and turn over & tap it a few times to stir the powder up inside it for a much darker print. This electronics hobby is really interesting and i have been building some great devices for my little workshop. I wish you all the best & hope my experiences helps you solve the problems you're shown. Cheers from New Zealand!
@dkmmhdk4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing your story of your trouble. I plan to show a large magnification of the imperfections in my boards in an upcomming episode, might be an interesting look. Greetings from close to the opposite side of the world (Denmark)
@ovi_44 жыл бұрын
Well, I've been thru it myself. However several things you need to consider in order to be successful. 1. You cannot touch the copper after sanding and cleaning it with alcohol sanding grit: (200 to 500) 2. The paper you use : ordinary magazine paper almost always work and is known to be reasonable before trying other more suitable kinds of paper such as flossy photo paper. But, keep in mind that water is the enemy no. 1 for any paper and is responsible for a guaranteed FAILURE!!. So, keep your paper in a ZIPPED BAG !!!! at all times and only open the bag for a very short time when needed. 3. When using the iron the table surface has to be plain and hard and solid like wood. 4. Toner used has to be Original not after market . I've tried the after market myself and 8 out 10 times it failed but with the original toner (I know is a lot more expensive!) it worked every time. Stay well away from Brother printers in general. They are known to use a totally different toner than all the other manufacturers and require way more temperature, and the resulting transfer is not great as it is not so even and the toner after the transfer is somewhat ,,brittle,, (I've tried it myself already with 3 Brother printers). As a guide, for instance HP toner will need about 170-190 degrees Celsius but Brothers toner needs over 200-210 . Make absolutely sure that you drain all remaining water out of your iron before use and that the iron is on the very maximum heating temperature. Do not stop the iron in 1 place, keep slowly sliding it across the copper, otherwise you'll end up with blotches of toner (no good). You have to do quite a few passes (20-30 maybe) Do not use plastic transparent tape When heated becomes toxic for your lungs and can easily melt on the surface of the iron rendering it unusable. Use only masking tape (used by painters) Is made of paper. In printer settings or in properties (one or the other) go to maximum contrast (In my case 5 for my HP). Hands need to be very dry at all times. Every time I do a toner transfer I wash my hands with a strong detergent several times to get rid of greasy hands and dry them off. When cutting the paper to size (after printing) try to avoid touching the print at all. Very important! Also if you happen to be a heavy breather try to work with the paper away from your chest. Heavy breathing and also make the paper dump. I know it may sound irrelevant but believe me, it is. However, having said all of the above, once you start mastering the Iron method you''ll find that sooner or lather you'll still need to invest in a laminator to do a proper more professional and more consistent job. There are a lot of secondhand cheap laminators on eBay (make sure you buy a good Brand) and there are some videos on the KZread showing how to modify some laminators for higher temperature. Please note that all of the above is my personal opinion after so many failures. Good luck
@dkmmhdk4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing your experience. This one was more of an experiment as I noticed transfer from the paper I put under the Iron to the glossy paper I used previous that actually seemed to give good result even using a Brother printer, if you watch the end of pt.1 you can see the printer settings I'm using. For now I'm just using what I have, then we'll se if this is something I wanna get more serious in to before upgrading. But I can clearly see the potential in this method.
@rebelba424 жыл бұрын
I know it takes some experiments and time to get the toolchain running. It's hours of repeat, analyze, change something, repeat... but in my opinion it's fun and worth every second getting a nice PCB toolchain in the end! On important parameter i noticed, is how the paper is stored. The best results I can archive is by using glossy paper for laser printer coming in a sealed bag with zip lock! Sunlight and Air seem to affect the glossy surface and the toner sticks better to the paper instead to the copper. Normally, I got a time frame of about 30 minutes from getting the paper out of the box, printing and transferring until the environment influences the final transfer result. Thanks for sharing your way to a perfect PCB!
@robertcalkjr.83254 жыл бұрын
Good job, Mikael! You need to find some better paper.
@dkmmhdk4 жыл бұрын
Probably, but this was the first paper i tried. I've got some sample packages of different papers liing around so got some possibilities for testing.
@robertcalkjr.83254 жыл бұрын
Hopefully one of them will absorb water.
@ovi_44 жыл бұрын
You seems too have much interference from your local equipment (maybe). Way too much background possibly 50Hz humming noise there. However some humming will always be present whatever you do (this is because of the old vacuum tubes technology) On the other hand, look out for any led or fluorescent lighting sources that you might use while filming, any switch mode power supply, any video camera that is too close, mobile phones, wi-fi router, near by printer or any other equipment that is switched on can potentially produce unwanted interference and renders the entire reception experience useless. Move them all as far away as possible and only use basic incandescent lighting when filming, If you use an external aerial make sure that the cable between the outside aerial and your radio is kept well away from any electrical equipment to avoid interference being captured, TV's Computers, etc etc, They all need not only to be switched off but unplugged as well. Also verify all filtering caps within your radio as well (they might be testing ok with a capacitance tester but could be leaky as hell) Also verify the grounding wiring within the radio itself. Could be some shielding plates that you have left out (maybe). All of the above play a huge roll in a successful reception. Nice radio by the way. Keep up the good work.
@dkmmhdk4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your long comment. I know all about digital equipment (computers etc.) creating noise on AM bands. Here I had no other test equipment turned on other than an Isolation-Variable transformer, isolation is needed as this is a hot chassis. I had a suspicion that a scope might be a source of interference as it has a 20kV CRT and has digital readout and a SMPS, but testing afterwords it did not make any change if it was on or off. The radio has been recapped for electrolytics and paper caps, see an earlier video to this one, ill ad a link to the playlist.
@circuitmonkey66534 жыл бұрын
Nice job, Mikael!
@dkmmhdk4 жыл бұрын
Thanks, looks like we both have the same VTVM
@robertcalkjr.83255 жыл бұрын
Good job, Mikael! The lighting looks much better!
@dkmmhdk5 жыл бұрын
Yes I think so myself. The backlight panel seems to give a good light.
@robertcalkjr.83255 жыл бұрын
Thanks Mikael! Some of the problem may be the auto settings on the camera.
@dkmmhdk5 жыл бұрын
Problem is the automatic can't be completely disabled.
@robertcalkjr.83255 жыл бұрын
It seemed to be ok on your newer video.
@robertcalkjr.83255 жыл бұрын
I can't see it!
@dkmmhdk5 жыл бұрын
Is it because it is too dark, or are you unable to play? I just checked that it plays. Please be a little more specific when reporting problems.
@robertcalkjr.83255 жыл бұрын
Yeah, way too dark!
@dkmmhdk5 жыл бұрын
Try to watch from about 6:40 when the cover is removed, it should be more visible and a few photos added.
@ke4est5 жыл бұрын
WOW what a difference Mikael!!!!
@rebelba425 жыл бұрын
Good Job Mikael, this is a nice little circuit which makes a huge audible difference! Thanks for sharing with us!
@dkmmhdk5 жыл бұрын
Thanks, yes this really makes a difference. without I could not get a decent recording-level with this sound-card.
Пікірлер
question ? how you conect the tester to a octupus tracer ?
Got one for 25 Eur. FM works fine but other L K M doesn't even with long wire antenna. What could be the reason? Other issue is air is leaking from the radio front panel and top side does rattle. If i put some heavy weight sound is better.
at 20x magnification, craters should be visible. I don't see them here
Good battery hack, I have one of these (love these old meters) and managed to get a 15V battery for mine.
Philips is used because the whole transport was theirs.
Sikke en gang bavl! Mål dog modstanden over spolen! Ingen hokudpokus i dét 🤦♂️
That's a good wending ... Du skal skifte samtlige elektrolytter og trimme LB, MB, KB, FM, og er der stereo-dekoder, skal den også trimmes. Alle kontakter, trimmepotmetre og potmetre skal renses, så de virker igen. De genstridige af slagsen udskiftes. Selen-ensretteren skal skiftes. Den har begrænset levetid, og røgen fra den er møg-giftig. Når jeg åbner et stykke elektronik, så sørger jeg for, at det ikke skal åbnes igen de næste 50 år. Måske derfor, jeg ikke har fået klager i de 25 år, jeg har arbejdet med den slags .... But you vil hellere make a kedelig video on youtube that shows your dovenskab ...
Dude! Just use a 18v cordless tool batt. And build an adjustable, constant voltage regulator for the princely sum of $5cad. I've given up on one use batt. I bought this meter Same model but older 1940's, brand new, some scratches, still n.o.s....paid $10cad no tax! I'm currently, no pun intended, playing with LiPo's of all sizes.... clearly I have ADD...
A bit confusing to use the low ranges as a demo for the first 8 minutes....But its OK for beginners
Pudsigt at modellen her går til 108 MHz, når mange senere kun går til 104 MHz på FM-skalaen. Beomaster 901, 2000, 3000, 3400, 4000 og 6000 er blot nogle af dem som kun går til 104 MHz.
Holy moly, just a suggestion, new sharp edged gold plated multimeter probes seems needed ;-). Being sharp keeps them in place and the goldplating makes a much better connection.. But interesseting to see the use of Mr.Carlssons signal tracer!
On first sight, the red capacitors, is the main coolpit of much B&O, from that time area, braking down. As a thum rule, always change these kind of electrolytic capacitors on bare sight!
Hi! I come watching this video because today I start trying play a CD in an unit like yours. The display and functions working well but no sound out on main output except in headphones. After a couple of hours I accidentaly discover the problem. The output RCA females sockets in the unit, both had (very) bad cold solderings in their terminal on circuit board. Problem fixed and now its working great!
I had the exact same fault on a CD player I bought on a flea-market. Resoldered the terminals on the PCB and all's well.
Do these meters need to lie flat when in use, or can they be standing up, or propped at an angle.
Just did a quick test, and it looks like my meter reads the same if it lays down or stands up.
@@dkmmhdk Thank you for the swift reply.
These meters will work both ways, but are normally calibrated laying flat
Best to be laid with scale upwards, as per instructions on the rear. This is even more important If the movement is slightly out of balance.
I learned how to use one when I worked in a TV repair shop at 13. So I bought a 2nd hand one (about 1965). Its still in regular use! Works both ways up!
Thanks I got a 15v Alkaline copy for £7 delivered.
Yes, but alkaline button cells have a very short life and usually leak sooner or later causing damage. Lithium metal button cells are far better, plus.....you only need five of them. From memory i used CR1025.
Mam identyczne radio, praktycznie w stanie idealnym, zaskakująca dobra jakość dźwięku.Wszystkie przełączniki potometry są sprawne, tylko niestety bardzo BUCZY transformator. Wiem z doświadczenia że rzadko da się naprawić tą nie miłą przypadłość (usterkę).
The output socket doesn't need grounding, but a metal housing that use mains power (120V or 240V) definitely needs grounding.
There is nothing connected to the GND of the output socket, the socket that I got just happened to have a GND terminal. Most wall-outlets here do not have a safty-earth, so it is not possible to ground the front-plate.
@@dkmmhdk when the live wire of your mains come loose from the primary side of the transformer, and touch the metal core of the transformer, and you toch the metal front, you will get zapped without a proper grounding. Showing this for educational use on KZread is not a good example and can cause serious damage or dead to viewers who replicate this.
@@dkmmhdk when you use mains power in combination with metal that can be touched by hand, the metal parts need proper grounding.
Nice repair Mikael!
Thanks.
Bro how to open led
The case is just hold together with plastic clips, so you need to find a suitable tool to get the clip loose. Special spudger-tools exist, I've read a suggestion of using an old credit-card but that doesn't seem to work well for me. I tend to use a flat-bladed screwdriver, but be aware that this can leave marks in the case. If you look at about 1 min you could get an idea of the clips.
I like that auto transformer very much. Mine is an old bench model that is going to be difficult to mount. Nice job!
Very nice! Thank you for pointing it out. Also, I guess I haven't been by your channel for a while as I notice you have added quite a bit of content, so I made sure to ring the bell and get notifications.
it is 20 X. normally Moon by naked eye is 9 mm, I use with telescope 20 X mag very often.Moon fits 60 deg.eyepiece. Nice video.
What do you mean by "fit 60° eyepiece"? I'm looking for binoculars to observe the moon craters
Ciao Mikael, what do you think about my Technics? The cd's doesn't read the discs and you hear some rumors from laser system. kzread.info/dash/bejne/eHeN17mDaLydqqQ.html Best regards
Hi Etrusco. From your video clip it seems like it is not probably detecting or not able to focus on the CD. Have you tried cleaning the lens? Just try a dry cotton swab if it's only dust. If the player is located in a room were people are smoking (ore there is a fire place) you may need to put a cleaning solvent on the swab, like a glass cleaner or screen cleaner, be careful with an alcohol based cleaner like isopropyl-alcohol as this might course a plastic lens to become matt. If this doesn't help I would next check for tracking/focus issues and check the RF/eye-pattern with a scope to see if the level is too low (dirty or week laser). If you lift the clamp you should be able to see the lens, and when you close the drawer without a disk the lens should move up and down to try to focus. WARNING, NEWER LOOK STRAIGHT IN TO THE LENS, only look from the side, possibility of eye damage. Let me know if this helps you. You should be able to easy download the manual for free by just searching for the model number.
@@dkmmhdk Thanks for your help. I cleaned the lens with an alcohol solution, I hope I have not increased the problems. Today the player turns on but no longer runs like in the video.
It's very shecki ..
Sorry had no camera stand/tripod at hand, so handheld. at lage zoom ranges the tiniest movement becomes large.
@@dkmmhdk it's ok brother
So how did you get the backing off?
If you are referring to the back cover, it is just hold in place with plastic clips, so it has to be pried open. I most likely used a pocket-knife and some flat-bladed screwdrivers for this.
hi sir good day i want to make a tube tester can i buy the drawing from you my email ([email protected])
Very informative and well done, we will be at CES please subscribe to our for similar content!
This looks very similar to my first scope which was a Telequipment single channel
Nice job! Thank you!
Good Job Mikael!
Good repair Mikael. Thanks for sharing.
Great repair tnx. for sharing.
Cool. What screw size you used?
I think is was M4, but I just went for the largest that I've hat with matching nuts that could fit the bracket
Thank you so much Mikeal, you've made this so much simpler than I thought it was going to be. All I really need to buy is the etch any fluid now! I really appreciate you taking the time and doing this. I'm sure it will help a lot of people!
Thanks for your kind words. I've got a question onMmr. Carlson's lab (Patreon) how this old way was done, so I thought the quickest and easiest way for me was to show it on a video instead of writing a description. This video is done without any editing, just preparing all things, then record preview and upload. Editing can be real time-consuming.
@@dkmmhdk that was me on Mr. Carlsons lab! I was actually thinking of starting my own youtube channel, in the same soft of fashion you describe your video here. I don't know much about editing either.
Hello Mikael. I went so far as to import a ream of it to my country the precise same paper Mr Carlson suggests in his videos (had to import it because it's formatted as imperial size and not standard A4). This then played havoc as my laser printer had problems taking it. Next there was an issue with the quality of the laser printing. One machine has a permanent smart-toner save use so that the edge (1 to 2mm) is nice and dark but larger and it's lighter. I bought a more professional printer! Next issue is making sure there's no chance of any oils etc on the copper after sanding. I tried using isopropyl alcohol but even then it didn't fully clean the surface. So far the best has been CRC carburetor cleaner but its expensive and truly STINKS. It dissolves almost anything else like plastics so have to be careful. Then after a break of luck i obtained an A3 heat laminater cheaply which on hi setting is as Mr Carlson says runs screaming hot. I found an old ordinary clothes iron just not hot enough. Finally after that i had to soak the paper off the board having it copper side upper most in water, leaving it to sit for some time as the paper fibers break apart and using a soft rubbing with a clean finger tip helps. On double sided boards it's a double fiddle as you have to turn it over each time ! I notice that the bearings that support the rollers in the thermal laminater are distorting as they are a plastic & have begun to show signs of melting so my next project is to make a set in brass using my lathe when i have time.... Then i can mod the machine to run even hotter! I think the secret of transferring the toner to the copper is the copper has to be really, really CLEAN of any kind of contaminate, especially oils and the laser print needs to be done on a really good machine or one with a not too old a toner cartridge & drum. Since i only ever print PCB layouts it does very little works so sits for months so I regularly take the toner cartridge out which is a sealed unit and turn over & tap it a few times to stir the powder up inside it for a much darker print. This electronics hobby is really interesting and i have been building some great devices for my little workshop. I wish you all the best & hope my experiences helps you solve the problems you're shown. Cheers from New Zealand!
Thanks for sharing your story of your trouble. I plan to show a large magnification of the imperfections in my boards in an upcomming episode, might be an interesting look. Greetings from close to the opposite side of the world (Denmark)
Well, I've been thru it myself. However several things you need to consider in order to be successful. 1. You cannot touch the copper after sanding and cleaning it with alcohol sanding grit: (200 to 500) 2. The paper you use : ordinary magazine paper almost always work and is known to be reasonable before trying other more suitable kinds of paper such as flossy photo paper. But, keep in mind that water is the enemy no. 1 for any paper and is responsible for a guaranteed FAILURE!!. So, keep your paper in a ZIPPED BAG !!!! at all times and only open the bag for a very short time when needed. 3. When using the iron the table surface has to be plain and hard and solid like wood. 4. Toner used has to be Original not after market . I've tried the after market myself and 8 out 10 times it failed but with the original toner (I know is a lot more expensive!) it worked every time. Stay well away from Brother printers in general. They are known to use a totally different toner than all the other manufacturers and require way more temperature, and the resulting transfer is not great as it is not so even and the toner after the transfer is somewhat ,,brittle,, (I've tried it myself already with 3 Brother printers). As a guide, for instance HP toner will need about 170-190 degrees Celsius but Brothers toner needs over 200-210 . Make absolutely sure that you drain all remaining water out of your iron before use and that the iron is on the very maximum heating temperature. Do not stop the iron in 1 place, keep slowly sliding it across the copper, otherwise you'll end up with blotches of toner (no good). You have to do quite a few passes (20-30 maybe) Do not use plastic transparent tape When heated becomes toxic for your lungs and can easily melt on the surface of the iron rendering it unusable. Use only masking tape (used by painters) Is made of paper. In printer settings or in properties (one or the other) go to maximum contrast (In my case 5 for my HP). Hands need to be very dry at all times. Every time I do a toner transfer I wash my hands with a strong detergent several times to get rid of greasy hands and dry them off. When cutting the paper to size (after printing) try to avoid touching the print at all. Very important! Also if you happen to be a heavy breather try to work with the paper away from your chest. Heavy breathing and also make the paper dump. I know it may sound irrelevant but believe me, it is. However, having said all of the above, once you start mastering the Iron method you''ll find that sooner or lather you'll still need to invest in a laminator to do a proper more professional and more consistent job. There are a lot of secondhand cheap laminators on eBay (make sure you buy a good Brand) and there are some videos on the KZread showing how to modify some laminators for higher temperature. Please note that all of the above is my personal opinion after so many failures. Good luck
Thanks for sharing your experience. This one was more of an experiment as I noticed transfer from the paper I put under the Iron to the glossy paper I used previous that actually seemed to give good result even using a Brother printer, if you watch the end of pt.1 you can see the printer settings I'm using. For now I'm just using what I have, then we'll se if this is something I wanna get more serious in to before upgrading. But I can clearly see the potential in this method.
I know it takes some experiments and time to get the toolchain running. It's hours of repeat, analyze, change something, repeat... but in my opinion it's fun and worth every second getting a nice PCB toolchain in the end! On important parameter i noticed, is how the paper is stored. The best results I can archive is by using glossy paper for laser printer coming in a sealed bag with zip lock! Sunlight and Air seem to affect the glossy surface and the toner sticks better to the paper instead to the copper. Normally, I got a time frame of about 30 minutes from getting the paper out of the box, printing and transferring until the environment influences the final transfer result. Thanks for sharing your way to a perfect PCB!
Good job, Mikael! You need to find some better paper.
Probably, but this was the first paper i tried. I've got some sample packages of different papers liing around so got some possibilities for testing.
Hopefully one of them will absorb water.
You seems too have much interference from your local equipment (maybe). Way too much background possibly 50Hz humming noise there. However some humming will always be present whatever you do (this is because of the old vacuum tubes technology) On the other hand, look out for any led or fluorescent lighting sources that you might use while filming, any switch mode power supply, any video camera that is too close, mobile phones, wi-fi router, near by printer or any other equipment that is switched on can potentially produce unwanted interference and renders the entire reception experience useless. Move them all as far away as possible and only use basic incandescent lighting when filming, If you use an external aerial make sure that the cable between the outside aerial and your radio is kept well away from any electrical equipment to avoid interference being captured, TV's Computers, etc etc, They all need not only to be switched off but unplugged as well. Also verify all filtering caps within your radio as well (they might be testing ok with a capacitance tester but could be leaky as hell) Also verify the grounding wiring within the radio itself. Could be some shielding plates that you have left out (maybe). All of the above play a huge roll in a successful reception. Nice radio by the way. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for your long comment. I know all about digital equipment (computers etc.) creating noise on AM bands. Here I had no other test equipment turned on other than an Isolation-Variable transformer, isolation is needed as this is a hot chassis. I had a suspicion that a scope might be a source of interference as it has a 20kV CRT and has digital readout and a SMPS, but testing afterwords it did not make any change if it was on or off. The radio has been recapped for electrolytics and paper caps, see an earlier video to this one, ill ad a link to the playlist.
Nice job, Mikael!
Thanks, looks like we both have the same VTVM
Good job, Mikael! The lighting looks much better!
Yes I think so myself. The backlight panel seems to give a good light.
Thanks Mikael! Some of the problem may be the auto settings on the camera.
Problem is the automatic can't be completely disabled.
It seemed to be ok on your newer video.
I can't see it!
Is it because it is too dark, or are you unable to play? I just checked that it plays. Please be a little more specific when reporting problems.
Yeah, way too dark!
Try to watch from about 6:40 when the cover is removed, it should be more visible and a few photos added.
WOW what a difference Mikael!!!!
Good Job Mikael, this is a nice little circuit which makes a huge audible difference! Thanks for sharing with us!
Thanks, yes this really makes a difference. without I could not get a decent recording-level with this sound-card.
Very good Mikael!!!!
Thanks.
Good Job Mikael!
You Have so many subs