Hello there, and welcome to The Race for Terra, a channel dedicated to one thing above all else: WEATHERING tutorials. In terms of models, I focus on sci-fi and WWII subjects, both for wargames like Star Wars Legion or Bolt Action, and traditional scale models.
Although the majority of my videos are weathering tutorials, I also review new hobby products and publications from time to time.
At present, I have over 100 videos, most of them divided into playlists by genre or topic. For example, I have a playlist just for Star Wars hobby tutorials with over a dozen videos showing you how to weather Star Wars models, step by step.
So, whether you are into wargames or scale models, if you want to up your weathering game and learn more about things like enamels, lacquer paints, chipping effects, rust streaks, and so on, you've come to the right place!
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Thanks for the helpful video, …but I have to say please oh please don’t add all that crazy loud music ! Why do you do that? Completely unnecessary and in my opinion very unprofessional !
Thank you! My choices as a creator, including the music, always reflect what I value and enjoy myself when watching videos as a member of the audience. Like most Warhammer nerds young and old, I listen to metal music. Sorry that you hate it, but as for calling my use of it "unprofessional", I think that is as ludicrous as it's uncalled for, mate. I actually spend a considerable amount of time with sound editing (incl. the soundtrack), and I'm pretty proud of it. Whether or not the music a creator uses matches your own personal tastes has nothing to do with how "professional" they are. Oh, and by the way, I do this as a hobby...
Sorry if I offended ✌️🕊️. I suppose being a Yorkshireman I tend to say things in a “straightforward”, honest fashion 😂. I’ve no problem with metal music by the way (although It’s not my taste, which is mostly iconic progressive rock from the late 60s to late 70s); and no problem with Warhammer - in fact I used to sell that stuff (and Dungeons & Dragons) when I owned two model shops. I just think that producing videos like you do (as a hobby, which is a wonderful thing to do) surely the aim is to just to communicate and pass on advice experience and encouragement to other people. They don’t really need any backing music to ‘enhance their experience’. They just simply want to pick up the tips and advice - that’s with my marketing hat on. Sorry about that but I’ve had to deal with a lot of focused marketing in senior business positions I’ve had over my lifetime. I’m all about being clear over the objectives; keeping a tight focus; not getting distracted in order to achieve the right outcome. Just how I’m wired 😂 And as for my comment about being unprofessional, I did caveat that it was just my opinion. Anyway congratulations for putting time in to help others!
@@madeinyorkshire52 Thank you for your very thoughtful reply. By the way, I grew up in Spain, but as it happens, my dad's from Otley, West Yorkshire...In terms of music or no music, I'd invite you to check out my last 3 videos (mostly Star Wars-themed one way or another), where I tried atmospheric sci-fi ambient stuff instead - see how you like that. The videos themselves are also waaaay better than the one you commented on, which is quite primitive by comparison!
What gloss varnish do you use?
Hi Fieser, this is an incredibly old video (4 years old now) - do you want to know what varnishes I use NOW, or what I used as part of the project in that particular video? If it's the former, I use mostly Tamiya X-22 with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner for gloss, and Tamiya XF-86 with the same thinner for matt/semimatt. Almost all my more recent videos have a list of materials used, per SEGMENT, on screen.
Now that I've seen this video, I can't find Maskol anywhere, everyone is sold out. Is there a way to use these techniques with Mr Masking Sol? I tried adding water, but it clumped up on the brush pretty badly, I didn't get that smooth application like in the video with Maskol.
Sorry to hear that! I've heard really good things about Mr. Masking, but never tried it myself. Good luck, though!
Very interesting video! Battletech models are very similar scale to Adeptus Titanicus roughly 1/285 & 1/300.
Hadn’t thought of it that way, but yes. You’re right! Thank you!
Panel wash 😳
Hi Olly, I hope that means you liked it?
I found information, that Anti Slip Paste is the best with scale 1/35 or higher? Would it be good for 1/300 scale in Battletech?
Hi Jaros, there are 2 pastes for 2 different scales - www.migjimenez.com/en/324-anti-slip-textures I don't know about Battletech, but I would guess that either paste might be too coarse for such a scale. If you play other games, I would say get the paste and try it - it's really worth your money compared to other stuff!
Great buildings that you've really done justice to, but poor form from AK for downgrading their quality.
Thanks, Rick! Yeah, at least they could have told us about the “new formula”, don’t you think?
@@TheRaceForTerra yes, but they'd have probably said 'new improved mix' !!
What are differences between streaking rust and rust wash in terms of effects they do? For example If I want to make a model which seems to be covered in red dust which changes it colors, give it a some sort of rusty filter, the same way as some painters are using streaking grime to make their figurines darker, I should use rust wash streaking rust or maybe even something else.
Hi Jaros, there are many products - you also have to take into account regular oil paints, Oilbrushers by AMMO, Liquid Pigments by Lifecolor...The only difference really between streaking rust and rust wash is that the first one is a more heavily pigmented enamel, which makes it a bit too much for a regular wash, but easier to manipulate when cerating streaks. This video of mine is extremely old and I have learnt much since - I would recommend you watch some of my newer material for more guidance.
I cant do it with clean spirit can you help me?
What do you mean, Kriii? Explain what happens And you mean “white spirits”, right?
The Vallejo metallics that you used are lovely, especially for gun metal colours. Great work as always!
Thanks, buddy! They also have some interesting blues…😉
My cotton buds feel personally attacked! Joking aside they remain a trusty tool, for infantry sized models at least, absorbing and moving around pigments like no brush or sponge I've come across. You can get ones made for our specific needs that are more firm and leave way less fibers on models compared to the common ones. The project sounds like a real uphill battle which you valiantly overcame with some good ol' creativity. Too bad to hear about AK. They're no doubt cutting back costs at the expense of product quality. I've heard similar murmurs of new army painter and vallejo products as well. Seems that we're going full circle with hobby products and we'll have to return to sourcing our own if similar trends continue. I'll have to be on the lookout for the old labeled AK stuff at my local hobby shop.. But to not end my ramble on a sour note, the final result looks fantastic and it was intriguing to see all the steps taken to achieve it 👍
Hahah, thanks, Tapio! One of the longest and most epic comments on the channel to date! 😀
I'm honestly a bit shocked by the notion that your videos haven't sparked more conversation on the youtube side of things despite being always so information packed. Mayhaps this old grognard should do more grumbling oor otherwise rouse public disapproval
@@tapioturkki6389Old grognards must stand together!
Magnifico!! Que mal acostumbrados nos tienes. Gracias.
¡Muchas gracias, tocayo! Me alegro de que te haya gustado el vídeo
heck ya hes back!
Hahah, I am back indeed, and I hope you enjoyed the video! 😉
If you dont know how to use an airbrush can these techniques still be used?
Hi Jack, all the weathering techniques can, which is really the crux of it - that is why my tutorials are divided into clear steps. Have fun with your bases!
can i use clean spirit instead of the the thinner? also great video as i have just bought the product
Hi Kriii, thank you, yes, you can. White spirits is more aggressive, though, so be gentle!
I was going to get some of this stuff but i read online that it can ruin acrylic paints bc it contains ammonia. How did you get around this? It looks like a great product otherwise. Also that green effect is amazing!
Hi Jacob, I rarely use acrylic paints, so I cannot tell you for sure, but given Vallejo have their own (inferior) version of this, which stinks of ammonia and is meant to be used with their own line of paints, I am rather skeptical. If you varnish first as I did here, the chances of issues would decrease further. Given the price, I would get it and test it if I were you.
I thought the same about the Vallejo one, although some sites list it as being water based. I’ll grab some to try with my Vallejo paints as maskol is harder to find in aus. Thanks!
That's amazing! Thanks for the info.
Hi, you are very welcome!
Excellent video! 👍🏻🎅👍🏻 If you are going to do a larger number of miniatures (25-30+), you might consider Artist grade oil paints and odorless mineral spirits. I still have and use the same tubes of oil paints since the early 1970's!
Thanks, JL! Yeah, oil paints in a tube are also a very cost-effective solution when doing large terrain pieces. Happy you liked the video!
This channel is exactly what I needed. That trigger & grip, that presentation, that price...wow. I'm in the market for my first airbrush and the Swallowtail is the one.
Wow, thank you kindly, Kevin. If you want to get one of these, could I ask you to use my affiliate code with a 10% discount? 😉 www.gaahleri.com/discount/TheRaceForTerra010?ref=TheRaceForTerra
Wow, I need to try this stuff. I hate fighting with acrylic shades. This looks like a walk in the park in comparison.
Hi Kevin, happy to hear you liked the video! Yes, I am honestly baffled at why people keep using acrylic shades. Other than GW pushing them, I see no reason whatsoever not to move to products like this. My son (9 years old) uses them with no issues at all, so it ain't the learning curve.
Can I use tooth brush instead of brush on a resin figure? Or will IMMEDIATELY ruin my finger n make it vanish from the face of the earth .
It's unlikely it'll vanish...so yeah.
How hard wearing is the finish? Can it be varnished without losing the finish on the ones that look good?
Hi PM, yes, but make sure to watch my second and definitive video on this product: AMMO U-Rust - How to Use U Rust | Star Wars Hobby Tutorial Episode 12/16 kzread.info/dash/bejne/f5Z2x7iFnNqepLg.html
any difference usecase between the strong and super strong variant?
Hi Paulus, I would say the Super Strong version is only for particularly tough surfaces, where you need extra adhesion or softening. It will eat through paint pretty quickly, whereas the Strong one will only eat through unvarnished acrylics unless there’s a lot of friction.
@@TheRaceForTerra thx. I got the super strong on its way because the strong was out of stock. So i'll see how that will work on a test model/paint. And if it will eat the paint etc fast :P
Merci !
Thank you kindly, Mr. O! Let me know if you have any questions about that video or any others!
great video, you made a very great diorama!
Thanks a lot, Mark! Have you seen my Crashed X Wing yet?
These are awesome.
Thank you, Harrison! Hope you enjoyed the video
What dictates which path you choose? Speed, looks, amount of weathering desired, just because?
That is an excellent question, Vogless, but not one which I can answer in full here. The abridged version would be to say that it depends on the level of perfection required, but it also depends on what type of paints are being used, what layers may go on top of a particular chipping layer, etc. And then, most importantly, you can have different types of chipping within the same project. For example, take my recent Grim Jagdtiger - that one had sponge chipping on the red (done off camera), and chipping fluid on the Dark Yellow (which I did show).
Try thinning with Mr leveling thinner for Tamiya acrlyics for a much better experience and smooth finish. Even with the x22a it still gets chalky. It works perfect even tho it’s a lacquer thinner. And tamiya LP lacquer white its even better.
Thanks, mate, but…did you watch the video? I never, ever use X-22, and I explained that the thinner I used was AK’s solvent-based one. In 99% of my videos you will see me use Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, as it happens.
@@TheRaceForTerra yeah i seen which is even worse than x22a.
Would you still pinwash the models first, or just panel line with the airbrush?
Hi Vogless, in most cases I would still do a pin wash, at least for surface details like rivets.
Understood, and thanks for the fantastic painting and super useful tutorials!
🎨 Interested in Gaahleri Airbrushes? Support my Channel and get 10% off with this affiliate link! www.gaahleri.com/discount/TheRaceForTerra010?ref=TheRaceForTerra
I have used Tamiya clear a LOT over the years, and my go to prep is Vallejo Metal Color Duraluminum… then Vellejo Metal color silver or chrome to create highlights. Do you think Vallejo Duraluminum and Chrome could work similarly to the AK extreme metal?
Hey Warhammerdad, yes, for sure - if you apply it with the airbrush, ensuring that it's really thinly layered, I don't see why not. I like Vallejo Metal Color too, but I just prefer the airbrushing experience with Xtreme Metal.
@@TheRaceForTerra Do you just order your extreme paint then? I cant find it locally anywhere. Thank you for doing what you do! I cant wait to use your techniques!! Its all amazing!
@@WarhammerDad1 Hi, I am located in Germany - here it's pretty easy to find. But yeah, just order online I would say. Thanks for your kind words, buddy!
Would you say that gloss varnish is absolutely necessary?
Hi Croatoam, I would say nothing in our hobby is “absolutely necessary”. It’s about getting best results and having the best experience…highly recommend a gloss varnish for both! Check out my blog for a much longer reply! theraceforterra.blogspot.com/
Man, this looks awesome. I got the Mig Winterizer set, so I am building this kit but in a Hoth based setting. So snow on the platform and on some places on the walker itself. And using Micro Crystal Clear for ice. But this video of yours is very very useful! Thank you.
Sounds great, Moxxi, and happy you liked the video! If you’re doing a Hoth project, why don’t you check out my Hoth X-Wing videos? 😉
@@TheRaceForTerra will do.
Every lady loves a nice clean tip 😜
Would you say there were any particular dis/advantages to using the Swallowtail with regards the pistol grip? Any jobs you would prefer to/not to use it for? Never tried using that style of brush before due to their single-action nature, but I'm always easily tempted to consider new shiny things!
New shiny things indeed! I am really struggling to find any disadvantages, to be honest. I got used to it immediately, so the learning curve is not really a thing. A particular advantage is the paint on-air on-off transition, which is far more intuitive than on a normal airbrush. It has a halfway stop like some handguns, so you simply release till that stop and then it’s air only. Honestly, cannot recommend it enough. Still gotta try to e 0.7 and the 0.5 with the fan cap - those could be game changers for varnishing and priming.
@@TheRaceForTerra oh, so it's not actually a single action in that you retain control of air and paint separately? I didn't know that was a thing in pistol brushes! Combined with a firehose needle that actually makes this quite an attractive prospect for the likes of priming and varnishing, while retaining the precision needed for (at least) early colour application. Well bugger 😅
@@pawlshepherd Damn, I thought that was obvious? Did you not see the part with the highlights, or was it still not clear? 🤔
It would appear that I missed it somehow, sorry! It's likely my fault for not paying attention properly - it's a long time since I've been in school 😜
@@pawlshepherd Hahah, but I’m not so sure now, maybe I should have explained it better!
I have all mk of armour and terminator with all the upgrades in stl format. I would say for bits yes. For models for cheap people like me lol
Very interesting! I'm grateful for the comparison between your airbrushes. That swallowtail is particularly intriguing.
Thanks, buddy, glad it was of interest!
Crikey, they really do look tempting...
Hahah, that they do! Will likely have a giveaway in a few months, so maybe you’ll win one of these next? 😉
@@TheRaceForTerra ooooh, I'll have to swot up for that then!
As always, a big thank you! And yes! Airbrush tips are very welcome!
Thank YOU very much! 👍
Unless they have fixed their general quality control you are late to the "hype" for these $20 cheep brushes that have been marked up. Dave's Airbrush did a very thorough run through about these brushes with a Blind buy. The brushes they send to be "reviewed" have been special brushes that receive far more attention that the normal ones sent out to customers. It is a shame you fell for this crap.
Mr. Beard, I guess Granpa Mark's Hobbies, Scale War Machines, and above all, *The Art Workshop* and *Dred FX Custom Studio Paint* , both of which have forgotten more about airbrushes than I could even learn, have all been duped as well? Or maybe it's all part of a great conspiracy? In any case, I wouldn't mind buying the same two airbrushes anonymously and testing them again - could be part of my long-term review.
@@TheRaceForTerraSeeing how you have deleted all my comments that I made to clarify my position it seems that you have taken to sticking your head in the sand in terms this company.
@@Thornbeard I have deleted no comments whatsoever, Mr, Beard - what the Hell are you talking about?
Really nice purp ! So the violet is already a metallic ? And what's your final varnish on top of it ?
Yes, it’s a purple metallic, as you can see. My final varnish is Tamiya XF-86 thinned 50% with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, but with a few drops of X-22 to make it less flat.
I know this is an older video, but do you happen to know what paint you used for that "ochre/yellow" of the main color on the tank? I have been trying to do something similar but I end up too tan or desert yellow. Thanks!
Hi, I’m not 100% sure, but I think it was Tamiya XF-88 without any highlights. Applied over German Dark Grey. Hope it helps!
You're a saint!@@TheRaceForTerra
I want to attempt to scratchbuild a deodorant speeder vehicle for my Orks
Very fitting for Orks - good luck!
@@TheRaceForTerra Thanks man! Though I haven't decided on what I want to run it as yet