Auto repair videos for the "Do-it-yourself" mechanic.
I will do my best to provide "What to expect" videos involving basic hand tools, battery power tools,
and tools obtainable though most local auto parts store's 'loan-a-tool' programs, as well as modern diagnostic tools and testing equipment.
I will also try to include links (when possible) where these tools can be acquired for your own collection.
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DIY Charlie
Пікірлер
Spray brake cleaner in the hole, it will eat the silicone.
Glad to see your back, can't wait to see this beast fire up.
a man has to know his limitations i sure hope you know yours
Cool video
Thank you. A couple more videos until it's first start in 4 years...
you are the best
Hope it was helpful!
Thank yoi so very much for the video. THANK YOU for not rambling on forever in the beginning like most people do! You a straight to the point man like me! I love it.
Thanks for watching!
Mine bought a year ago and used maybe five times and not charging anymore. Don’t waste your money.
It's sad that yours didn't last longer. Perhaps you got a "bad one". Mine is still working beautifully.
Pads got so tight cannot move wheel, i filed pad bit down and after filed paint away its moving freely.
ALWAYS make sure the surfaces that the pads make contact with WITHIN the caliper BRACKET, are clear and free of ALL rust scale, before coating it with a rust preventer/inhibitor. Filing anything should ALWAYS be a last resort.
Slack em off before you jack up the car helps hold the sleeve
Biggest problem in the Salt Belt, is that the bolts swell and bond themselves inside the sleeve. When you force it to turn, the sleeve rips free of the rubber.
@HouseCallAutoRepair I live in nova scotia I no all about it. I'm surrounded by the atlantic ocean
If the sleeve is turning inside the rubber you left, it get to bad. The first sign of clunking they should be swapped out , that way it don't take 3 days to do a 10 min job ,, the way they put the bolts inside the sub frame is ridiculous,, I always found that if they were orginal they come off easy but it someone changed them already and didn't use never seize that's when you can get into trouble, I always load onto the bolts incase I have to do it again
thank you
16 Gigs of memory and a 1TB drive.... 90% full... still editing videos...
My car won’t start on first crank but starts on second attempt. Been doing this since about a week ago. Just replaced battery yesterday and same outcome. Any ideas?
There is probably a weak connection on either the power or ground side connections. Check for voltage drop AT THE BATTERY POST (not clamp) and the STUD on the other end. Sometimes you'll find the connection between the actual wire and the clamp, is no good! The initial attempt heats and fuses the connection for the next attempt. Might even be a sticking starter solenoid.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair thank you sir, any feedback is appreciated. I will def’ look into this.
Great video. Thank you
Glad to have been helpful!
much appreciate this video. i am the original owner of this exact vehicle. your tips and tricks and super valuable.
Sorry I'm so far behind on the editing/releasing of the next installments...
13:59 Funny! I think it didn't make the noise because it wasn't the CRC brand ?!?!? 😉🤣
That's a good one!
i know how hard it was because i just took my off and it was pain in the ass
Amazing that they make some of these so difficult.
Do you have to compress the rod back into the slave cylinder to make it fit?
Yes, but it presses back in easily, by hand.
Thank you very much 🕊🙏🤍💙‼️
Thank you for checking out the video!
Awesome work. I will do my brakes following your videos
Should give you long brake life!
Thank you for editing the video and showing a accidental mistake. The GP4000 is an amazing unit. Thumbs up.
Thanks for watching! Glad you like yours too!
5:03 good to go....😂
Thanks for watching! Fairly easy diag and replacement.
How did you get the timing cover out????
Supporting the engine by the oil pan, on an appropriate sized block of wood, remove the belt driven accessories,, the motor mount, the cam cover, then the timing cover.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair how did you get it up high enough to clear the side frame? There is a part on the timing cover that prevents it from clearing the crank snout
Hi, I have this same Moentrol and I am no longer getting cold water in the shower...I know that there is cold coming to the bathroom because the sink works, so will this core replacement solve the cold water issue? Thanks.
To tell you the truth, I'm no plumbing expert. I honestly have no idea what factors may be involved. Should anyone know, please, fill us in...
Thank you. I really don't think i could've gotten that thing off without this video. I know you said it in the video but i wanted to add my experience here that its not too bad(relatively speaking) to get at that top bolt with a flex head ratchet, a medium sized(4 inch i think) wobble extension, and a deep socket. Still takes 1000 tries to get it lined up with that bolt, but it didn't seem too bad all things considered.
I couldn't agree more! Until you get to know how to approach that bolt.... it can be super frustrating, or even seem impossible!
Love the "click"😂
Some people get upset without it!
Just a quess... You didn't actually read the manual? If less than 2 bars, it can damage the Gooloo, if you try to jump start. You need to charge it up first. Also, if the thing says you've reversed polarity, you might want to check it.
Trust me. I DO know what I'm doing. THIS was an INTENDED demonstration of how these were designed to PRVENT what I managed to bypass. The purpose is to show these work even after being improperly used. I've have been using THIS EXACT unit for a couple of YEARS now without ANY issue!
@@HouseCallAutoRepair My BAD! I didn't realize your intent. Good demonstration!
Great video. Definitely helpful. Getting read to do this on my 2011. There is a loud clunk from time to time and all my suspension is new.
Just relocated my front sway bar, and found that my occasional thunk, was worn out bushings....
@@HouseCallAutoRepair I’ll be sure to look at that as well. I think it’s the shaft though because when I put my hand on intermittent shaft there is a lot of play in it and makes the same clunking that I hear.
Doing my 2011 tomorrow
This video was so helpful to me! I was not sure how to position the cartridge replacement. Nice detailed instructions and good tips throughout.
Glad it helped! (plumbing isn't my "thing")
Great how to video. Just changed the water pump on my 07 Matrix and opt not to remove the motor mounts. Just removed the alternator. Was not to bad gaining access to the lower bolts on the water pump.
Glad you found the video helpful!
Thanks for this video, great job. They are difficult bearings to replace even with a press. Your work is excellent, but watching you work with bare hands made me cringe, please wear gloves - our hands are too precious to injure at this stuff.
Thanks for watching! I'm working on being better about glove!s
Smell exhaust in the air vents cabin while the car in park Corolla 02 . Could it be the manifold gasket or the donut gasket also car is hesitating when accelerating . I think it's an exhaust issue and it gives a P0171 code with check engine light. Changed spark plugs and coils. Thank you very much.
Definitely sounds like an exhaust leak near or BEFORE the first O2 sensor....
@@HouseCallAutoRepair thanks
I'm fix'n to do my Rav4 rear brakes. That was totally through! You did not leave me with any questions! Thank you!
Very glad to have been helpful!
Best video for this . I want to replace my bumper myself and held off because I didn’t wanna break my tail light removing it
Thanks for watching! Hope this makes it MUCH easier to accomplish!
😅😅 3:18 😅😅😅0😅😊😅😅😮para 9😅
The legend ❤️
Thanks for checking out my channel!
Perhaps you should read the manual and check it out how to use it before you make a video! Thanks for ?????
Read the title again... There is a point to this, though poorly conveyed.
Thank you Sr for show me this part of the repair God bless you🙏🙏❗️
Just a different way of getting it done....
FIRST TO POST....
Thanks for watching, and the comment.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair You're welcome. This channel helped me repair my third brake light! Thanks.
En français
Unfortunately, English only.
I fix that
Not difficult, unless it doesn't work. Confirm before starting work.
the only concern i have is you installed some bolts with loctite and said you would come back and torque later i worry if the loctite sets up before you retorque could cause some problems. and the cam sprocket being locked should have made sure and explained the process of making sure its was locked. really enjoyed video you are braver than me would have never took on that job.
This was, without any doubt, quite a challenge. No available internet access, so I either wrote down what I needed, or held off until I did. (got a 2016 Cruze 1.4 torn down to the block, in the car. Just putting in the gearset today)
SADLY, the days of turning rotors are gone!!! After 115K miles mine are Down to 0.75 mm MINIMUM thickness. With new pads you can go maybe another 30K miles before replacing rotor. SADLY, HouseCallAutoRepair defaults to the Google DEFAULT of Sort by Top Comments, INSTEAD of Newest First so NO ONE will see this comment and may damage their car.
I did that lying on my back in the gravel, took three tries to get the slave cylinder back on, I like your path better, thanks.
Would have been a lot better had that bolt not broke off on me....
FINALLY!!!!! Thank you!!!
Thanks for checking out the video!
Let me tell ya something brother. You are one heck of a person. You saved me hundreds from Labor. Awesome and very knowledgeable. Please continue to upload videos. Thank you so much for your help. I appreciate your time. God bless you
Thank you for watching, and thanks for the comment!
Thank you pops I'm doing this on my 96 corolla this video just took away the fear I had for doing it
I'm glad to see the video serve it's purpose. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. That’s how I do it, too. Thanks 👍
Thanks 👍
WARNING!!! Potential to damage light assembly!!! Do NOT strike or put direct pressure on the 10mm bolts as demonstrated between 2:00-2:20 as the bolts are mounted via a small knurled surface in a thin plastic section of the light assembly that easily cracks. Replacing a light assembly is much more expensive than replacing the bulb & mounting clip.
Care to offer a better suggestion? I'm sure if you have a less destructive method, we'd all like to know!
So what's a better method?
Pop the clip out a little bit first to release the tension