A channel with a focus on advanced TV repair videos.
Our goal is to help people understand that electronics are fixable! We want to empower you to learn how to fix your own devices as well as provide resources to assist with the more technical aspects of the repairs.
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Wow so bad why would they put a wearable part soldered to the board like that? The PS5 is exactly the same let's make something that will eventually brick itself. When the eMMC dies can it still be copied? I know some chips still allow to be read just not write so at least you can clone the original chip or is that wrong? What do you use to read and clone the eMMC chip? I'm guessing from what you stated most of the apps don't function due to some weird encryption missing if it's not the original eMMC that's cloned? I have this TV so I'm a little worried now. We paid top dollar to get something that would be long lasting and it looks like that's not the case.
It's like it's a ploy... we need to secure our devices and on the other make them impossible to repair??? You would think install a blank chip TV enters recovery mode, flash firmware, problem is solved. You would also think the chip would be on a normal removable nvme drive that's encrypted but if replaced TV can recover itself.
can't find the chip online, do you have a link to purchase?
I have a problem with my Samsung that it keeps just flashing the smart tv powered by tizen message and I can’t do anything. Can someone please help??
Verdiğiniz bilgiler ve yardımcı olduğu n için tebrikler. Allah CC sizi ve ailenizi korusun. Teşekkürler sen harika bir ustasın.❤❤🙏
Hi Rick. Thanks for doing this video. I have this same TV with a blown power supply. I got your parts kit and replaced burnt components R9111, C9100, Q9100, R9104 and R9106, Also replaced U9101 which appeared burnt as well. The other parts in the kit appeared to be okay. R9107 measures 9.5k ohms which should be good. However, when I plugged in the power cord, it burnt R9111 and Q9100 immediately! I don't have either of these spare parts but they are easy to source. Any ideas what may have taken these out again? My bench soldering days date back to 1977, so it's been a relearning curve with these small scale components!
Sorry without having the power supply in front of me to full diag I can't help.
Very very good
Thanks
I have a Vizio E550i-B2E with the sounds but no picture. Did the flashlight test and was able to see a faint image of the picture. Took the back off and Identified that the pins were loose on this connector.. Brought it to a fellow ham radio operator and he soldered it. Now it works great. Thanks!.
Yup that will do it!
Interesting. The distortions only happen in game for me, sometimes accompanied by game crashes. And it's irregular + hard to repeat, so I can't tell what conditions change. Any clues why?
That was great! I've always been interested in electrical engineering. These videos make me wish I had pursued it. Feels so good bringing life back to equipment that requires dollars worth of replacement parts and some time.
You can do it!
You are a PRO. Thanks for sharing your electronic knowledge.
I do get paid to do this so indeed a pro haha
Awsome job, try heatgun to take that black strip off or use dbl sided tape to put on new led strip
Luv your stuff Nick, keep doing the good stuff
Thank you, I appreciate that!
Could have pulled the pins from the top, without removing the heat sink ;-)
Not sure that would have saved time in the end.
I've got this model TV and after a lightning strike here in GA, the TV won't turn on and I hear no buzz. Follow the same advice? It was plugged into a Belkin surge protector. The ps5 that was plugged directly into the outlet still works fine lol.
If a lightning strike took out the TV then most likely it's the mainboard that failed. If you don't hear the buzz from the power supply then this video does not apply to your failure. 9 times out of 10 lightning strikes affect the mainboard and not the power supply. To confirm this you can do a few voltage checks and make sure the power supply is sending voltages to the mainboard. If it is then your power supply is good and the mainboard is the fault. If not, then your power supply is the fault. If you aren't sure how to do some of these checks, then you can send in the boards for us to troubleshoot/diagnose and fix for you. But as stated based on the information provided it's likely that your mainboard is the fault, I would recommend sending it in for repair: nickselectronics.com/products/a2170502a
In every Video you are making the Same. Do something new, its Boring
I don't understand. This video is vastly different of a repair than most other repairs we do on the channel. I don't exactly dictate what commonly fails on these TVs I just fix what commonly goes wrong. The videos we do are a reflection of the most common repairs we fix daily. If you are looking for different repairs on different devices, that might give you the variety you are looking for. We have 2 other channels for repairs, one is all electronics except TVs which might have the variety you are looking for, and the other is game console repairs and upgrades. All electronics repairs except TV channel: kzread.info/dron/s_ALha5vs9lc0y-VeVrsyQ.html Game console repair and modification channel: www.youtube.com/@RetroRenegadeRepairs
8:38 asking to be shocked on your right arm : )
Lol, if I get shocked while recording I'll keep it in. But I have not yet gotten shocked on a live board that is plugged in. So far it's only been while the board is unplugged but still charged and I forget it's still charged and or it stayed charged for way longer than it should have or that I thought it would. That has happened dozens of times.
@@NicksTVRepair I have! : ) Usually 230vAC. I try to keep it to a minimum : ) Good job on the repair, sometimes these boards are trickier to diagnose
Yes they sure can be more difficult sometimes.
Great video pal. Very concise and informative. Good to find another techie who's both knowledgeable and good with the iron
Thank you for your kind comment! Been doing it for 10 years ish now. I don't solder nearly as much as I used to at first now that I have 7 employees, but I still love picking up the iron and repairing stuff.
Great job 🎉🎉
Thank you! Cheers!
I just lift the back of my tv from the wall mount and that usually does it. When it’s being really bad I’ll smack the back of the tv which works too. 3 years of this bs I might try your method 😂
Hey what ever works works!
I fixed my CX55 by dropping in a C1 mainboard, has been working great ever since. 😃 (this was after reapplying thermal paste to the cpu and it still failing)
Yeah thermal paste alone doesn't always do it but in some cases it can. You just have to make sure you really clean off all of the old crusty thermal paste off so that the new paste can make good contact with the CPU die and heatink. Additionally having that large silicone thermal pad can be a big difference for heat extraction. With all that said usually a reflow is also required in a few cases, and in a lot, a new CPU especially if the heat stress damaged the chip.
splendid!
Thanks
I have a 4 year old Hisense LED LCD TV model 70H6570G and the TV will turn on and stay on for a short period of time, usually an hour ish, then it turns off. I can turn it back on and it may stay on for 2 minutes, sometimes 5 minutes then turns back off. Is this a power supply issue or a main board issue. Can I send you the the board and how much to repair it?
It sounds like you may have a faulty backlight. Typically mainboard failures aren't going to be heat-related and it sounds like yours may have a heat-related issue. I have not yet seen a power supply for this model fail but have seen backlights fail that's why I would recommend replacing the backlight, but really having it properly diagnosed would be your best bet. I don't think I can help you with this repair as the backlight is something that needs to be replaced on sight.
Thanks 🙏👍💯😊
GOOD JOB BRO.NICE
Thanks ✌
Mate, i tried it a few times it doesn't work on my samsung TV😢
Some sets are going to be trickier than others. Some also fail more severely than others. It won't work with every TV but this does work with a lot of them. If it didn't work for you, then I am sorry to say that you may have to get a new TV.
is it possible for you guys to swap out micro usb for usb-c on an xbox one elite series 1 controller if i were to send it in?
Is that the same bench as the guy who fixes Xbox's?
That's right! :) We have 3 repair channels. I do the TV repair and random electronics channels, and my tech Juan does all the Xbox, and other video game console related repair videos.
Great Work from Ireland 🧐🙂🇮🇪☘️
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent , Thank you☘☘☘☘☘.
Many thanks
kdl- "55xh757" firmware download
Don't have sorry
I have a samsung 43 inch set great picture its 5 months old but bad audio raspy sound samsung has a crap warranty service. There just playing me I'm going to bring legal action what's your opinion?
My advice would be not to fix it but instead get external speakers, they will sound way better than any internal speakers ever can.
Hello, i have subcribed and liked and below, I have a couple of questions. How are you able to tell what pins to test in beep mode. How do you know the orientation of the transistor/diode. How can you identify a component as a diode,transistor(npn,pnp)
So the easy way to identify the components without having to look up data sheets every time is by their ID location. If the ID location of a component starts with the letter D then it's a diode. If it's a Q then it's a transistor. L for inductor, F for fuse, R for resistor, and C is for capacitor. Those are the most common ones. As for NPN or PNP transistors, it won't matter in terms of testing, none of the legs are supposed to be shorted to one another. So if you detect a short then most likely that transistor is bad. However, sometimes the circuit can be designed that way so it's always good to recheck them once they are out of the circuit to confirm A the part you removed is shorted, and B that the short is no longer present in the circuit. Had I only removed the 1 shorted transistor and not the diode, I would have still detected a short in the circuit even after removing the shorted transistor. Makes sense?
What a great video. You are the only one who explains each step hands on. Thanks so much for sharing.
For anyone at home, be extra careful if you perform a live test. The mains voltage is no joke.
I have never shocked my self on a live set while it's plugged in, but I have shocked my self on a power supply disconnected from power that still had plenty of juice, and boy that wakes you up. I wouldn't recommend.
I would also suggest being careful when you hold th psu@ 8:59 @@NicksTVRepair
Don't worry, I have a discharging tool I use to make sure it's safe to handle after live testing.
bravo. well done, very professional
Thank you
SAMSUNG = SH!T
Can you fioa tcm open circuit cascadia 2016 with a TD12 transmission?
Hello, I am sorry but I don't understand the question. We don't really do to my freightliner repairs other than the CPC4 and sometimes ECM but mostly really repairs on the CPC4
Nice job!
Thanks for the visit
Wait how did it come off so easily!?!?! Im trying so hard to remove my back cover and it is stuck on! All screws have been removed already. This sucks.
Lift from the bottom. You do have to put a little force into it.
@NicksTVRepair yeah I finally got it off. It was really stuck on so it took me almost an hour to get off. Thanks for the video. I am replacing the paste over the soc to see if that helps with the tv shutting off. Hopefully it does.
If the old paste is supper crusty and hard, which it almost certainly is, you will want to clean that part off so that the new paste has really good contact. I use Isopropyl alcohole, we have 99.99% but you can use anything above 90, just make sure it all evaporates and or gets wipped off after you finish your cleaning.
100eur desoldering station with vacuum pump is 100000x better than those spring pumps, they are a bit fiddly and may need small tweaks and fixes to work well, mine had a problem with seal behind the heater, but overall performance is so much better than the handheld pump it isn't as useful for these single sided boards, but for multilayer there really is no comparison
We have 2 FR-301 desolder pump/iron in the shop, they are pretty good for tougher jobs, but I wouldn't say it's 1,000 times better. The none electric desoldering pump I used in this video does also do the job well. The joints with those crowns are typically a bit tougher though and require the use of desolder wick. I probably could have gotten the solder off those tougher joints faster with the desoldering iron/pump but I don't know I also like the manual pump. I usually only use the FR-301 if it's a lot of joints like say some of the 18 throughole pin IC's or displays we replace for the oven control boards. This wasn't very many pins to desolder and only a couple were the tougher kind.
Hi Nick, thanks so much for the guide. Actually it works. But on my TV (Samsung UA55TU7000K) I still have a small flickering. I have put a tape to block the clock signals as per the photo. I have done many trials with increasing/decreasing the width of the tape. Looks there are still another clock signals that we need to block. But I cannot find it. Any advise? Thanks again! ❤
Yup for the TU models you will want to identify the VGH line. Cut it and install a resistor. You will want to use a resistor anywhere between 10k ohms to 100kohms. Depending on your set, every set is different, you will need to adjust the resistance based and see how it affects the picture. I usually start with a 50k ohm and if the picture goes out completely I go up. If the picture is still there but not as good as it should be I go down. I usually go down in half or up in half.
Yeah at point its better off just to buy a new controller...
True haha but also if you don't have the money to do so or if it has sentimental value then this is the legit way to do it.
Hi NTVR I have a Bravia 55x900F that powers on to the Android screen followed by black screen and 4 blinking reds. I want to try the "ground the BL-ERR pin trick" per your video, but the only place I find board markings for a BL-ERR pin on the 900F is at the connector on the Power Supply board. Your video shows doing the grounding at the LED Driver board but I cannot find board markings on the LED Driver board connector. So, which pin and where is it that I need to ground on the 900F? Do I simply ground the BL-ERR pin on the Power Supply board?
The BL_ERR ground trick only works for the 900c. Since you have a 900F you need to replace the LED strips to fix your set. Sorry, no easy way out on the 900F model.
How much to fix a Vizio power board I had it fixed once lasted about 3 months and blew again
What is the part number of the board?
Here's an interesting one for you: When first plugged in, the standby light flashes several times and then fades out. When the power button is pressed the standby light turns on for a second and then fades out. No visual damage to any board. I probed the power supply connector and I get 3 volts on the "PS-ON" pin when I hit the power button. When I hit the power button again the 3 volts drops to 0... This leads me to believe it's the power board as the mainboard is correctly commanding power on and off with the power button. However, I am getting 13 volts from all "+13VS" pins, even with the power supply presumably commanded off by the PS-ON remote wire de-energizing. I am getting zero power from any of the "LED-OUT" pins. Do you know what "VSNS" means on the power supply connector? I agree caps are good to check, but modern powerboards have so much filtering they don't have as many as they used to.
This is very common and it is your mainboard that is bad. This TV is plagued with bulging caps. If your caps aren't bulging then your power supply is working and your mainboard is the fault. If you want to send in your mainboard for repair, we have links to our services in the video description.
Hello left message!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi Nick! This not related on on your video but my concern with my A80J is when watching 4K movies especially Dune 2 opening scene on the desert the color is muted. It used to be bright orange color on DV picture mode now it appears like red orange. The HDR movies seems muted and looks like washed out. I did factory reset on my TV and even bought new 4k Panasonic Ub820 blu-ray and put correct setting and nothing changes . Please help and thank you for you reply in advance.
Used to be bright orange color? So you watched the exact same movie with the exact same settings in the exact same fashion meaning is was always via a Blu-ray? It wasn't via a streaming service before and now Blu-ray or vice versa? Are you sure you didn't have any different settings on the TV prior? Is this only an issue with that specific scene on that movie? Or are the colors muted on all picture all the time? If it's only that scene then it's not going to be an issue with the TV. At least I don't think so.
@@NicksTVRepair Yes everything is the same. No changes in setting and I watched it on 4k blu-ray player with 4K disc. I noticed on darker seen only . It's seems like the auto dimming was applied. There's a video I found on youtube from HDTV test channel he said on OLED TV this is happening to prevent permanent burn in on the screen. he tiltle of the video is 5 bizarre things that only happen on Oled TV. I hope you can watch it. Thank so much for the reply.
I have an LG OLED right now at the house but I don't really mess around with the settings to much. I know how to fix them very well but when it comes to some of the finer settings I am not as familiar.
@@NicksTVRepair I have a Best But service plan Im wondering if they can't bring the HDR on this TV do you think they will replace the unit because you bought the TV because of its feature right to give you a good quality picture?
They will either say that it's within spec even if it's not performing the way you expect it to, or they will trade it out. They might try replacing the mainbaord, but that most likely won't do the trick
Good vid. But I'm really surprised you don't use a power desoldering tool instead of the manual solder sucker.
We have the FR301 as well as the solder sucker and desolder wick. The FR301 can be more convenient but only when I have to do a lot of desoldering in one go. It takes a bit of time to get up to temp, it requires maintenance and routine cleaning and stays super hot for super long which means you have to go put it far away so no one accidentally burns themselves when you are done with it. It can just be a hassle so if I only have 3 components with few legs to desolder it doesn't make sense for me to use it. I would rather just use the desolder pump and wick. If I have a through hole IC with 32 pins then sure ill bust it out.
😂 replaced all the boards in mine with factory fresh, its still bricked after they did that bad update to cover up all the spying theyd been doing.
That's one of the reasons we recommend having your boards sent in for repair, at least we can truly diagnose and fix your unit by live testing your boards and confirming which is defective and which are working so you don't have to guess which is bad and if your replacement boards you purchased are also defectives. (often they are) We once had a Vizio TV with a bad power supply. I bought 4 different power supply boards from 4 vendors, all bad all defective. The 5th one I bought ended up working. This was before we were doing component level repairs.
looks like you need a good vacuum desoldering gun
We have the FR301 but I typically only use it when there are a lot of parts to desolder or if it's an IC chip with a lot of legs. This is very little desoldering, didn't feel like it was worth the hassle to use the desoldering gun.