I’ve got a Ford 3610 and I’m trying to remove that axle pin to replace the broken bushing. I had to take off the fan & radiator because of a broken fan blade pierced the radiator. How do I loosen the pin using a 1-5/8 socket wrench?
@gregpratt69263 күн бұрын
Nice walk though especially on the ignition . We had upgraded the 8n to 12volt long ago but electronic ignition looks like a nice addition...
@Jason1Pa3 күн бұрын
@gregpratt6926 A lot of people hate it,but a lot of people love it. I currently have 4 tractors that have it and only experienced one failure and it was totally my fault. I didn't have enough resistance. My first tractor to get switched to EI was in 2004 and still going strong. One thing I failed to mention in the video is changing the copper core plug wires
@gregpratt69264 күн бұрын
Thanks very nice walk though
@Jason1Pa4 күн бұрын
@@gregpratt6926 Thanks for watching!
@Unknown_divi5 күн бұрын
Omg I see myself 😂
@Jason1Pa4 күн бұрын
@@Unknown_divi 😂🤣 Where?
@Unknown_divi4 күн бұрын
@@Jason1Pa the one with the red hair in the pink sweatshirt at the beginning in the first float LOL 0:50 😂
@jasonxkillyou5 күн бұрын
Excellent videos, bud. You’re building my tractor. Just one thing I’d advise for others trying and struggling with the sure seal - I did the same thing as the removal except in reverse. Used the 3” pipe and hooked the ratchet straps underneath the hub. Slow, controllable and even pressure going down. Can tap it with hammer to help guide as you add tension. Took me 10 minutes each side after struggling trying to hit it with a hammer. 😂
@Anonymous-dt6dq8 күн бұрын
Hey Jason do you have an email where I can contact you I have a couple questions better to ask over email instead of flooding your comment section lol
@Anonymous-dt6dq I didn't, but I checked the spam folder then It was there. Not sure why that happened..I'll reply
@JeffSmallwood-p8i26 күн бұрын
Do you ever rebuild Sherman step up step down transmission for other people I have one that needs rebuilt I would feel more comfortable with you doing it
@Jason1Pa26 күн бұрын
@JeffSmallwood-p8i I do not. Sadly some of the key components are not available. For example the counter shaft in this particular one I later found out was worn too much to my liking so I had a local company make me one and heat treat it. That alone was 400 dollars. They are a very expensive adventure and most people would not pay or wait for someone to scrounge up parts. Even with all the work and expenses put in to this one it growls too much for my liking. If you watch my other video of me installing it into the tractor we found out that the brand new shafts teeth on the gears was not meshing well with the tractors gears so I went with the original shaft. Finding a original shaft that meets the specs would be difficult. Most of the tractors you see are pretty well beat up and so are the Sherman's. I personally would not feel comfortable rebuilding one for someone.
@JeffSmallwood-p8i26 күн бұрын
I wouldn’t mind trying it myself but like that pin that you made I took my plug out and mine is either broken and down under that rod or it’s just plain missing and I do not have anything to go by, also I can’t shift it that’s why I think it’s under the rod, also the main gear the one that goes in the transmission has a lot of play I can actually pull it out enough to see the bearing I may be better off parting it out
@Jason1Pa26 күн бұрын
@@JeffSmallwood-p8i That is normal for the gear to come out like that. It's held in place when it's bolted together in the tractor. Finding the proper amount of shims will adjust the back and forth moments just right.
@JeffSmallwood-p8i26 күн бұрын
Any ideas on that pin I honestly think I could rebuild this if I know what size to make this thing, also I never saw on the video of how to start taking those two shift rods out
@Jason1Pa26 күн бұрын
@JeffSmallwood-p8i The pin is 5/16 hardened steel. As far as the length I don't remember I just took a little but off here and there until it fit to my liking. It doesn't need to be real precise. As far as those rods once the detent balls/springs are removed and the set screws of the forks are removed they should slide right out.
@FTT14329 күн бұрын
I painfully watched another conversion video before I found yours, ty for a great edited learning video *****
@Jason1Pa29 күн бұрын
@FTT143 Awesome! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
@benkanobe7500Ай бұрын
Where do we order the seal and O-Ring? And the felt seal, where do we order that? This is an excellent youtube just need the parts!
@Jason1PaАй бұрын
@benkanobe7500 Everything Ford related in my videos the parts are purchased from Just8ns. com
@benkanobe7500Ай бұрын
@@Jason1Pa Thank you for the wonderful how to video as my tractor is leaking in that exact spot and I see so many others doing the same. On a chance, I tried Just8ns before getting this and they did not list the seal by that number but one digit higher. So I purchased two and in the notes explained I did not find the pitman arm steering shaft seal when I searched but found the one I purchased and if it wasn't correct to please advise me. They are good folks so I suspect they will fix it if I made a mistake. Thanks again and I look forward to more videos from you!
@Jason1PaАй бұрын
@benkanobe7500 Number:8N3591A should be what you are needing for the seal. If any questions I'd call Derek at Just8ns and ask just to be safe.
@benkanobe75008 күн бұрын
@@Jason1Pa OK. I did. (They did). Your video shows "8N3581B" which is why I was confused. But as stated, the good folks at Just8ns saw I ordered the "8N3591A" as that was what was available in the position picture for that seal so in the end, I have the correct seals. (Now I need to get the correct Felt as what was sent looks nothing like what you installed). Thanks again, excellent video!
@Jason1Pa7 күн бұрын
@benkanobe7500 no problem. Glad you got it straightened out!
@delgriffith1Ай бұрын
Curious about the shim washers and spacer on this. My 860 doesn't have any of that and there's about an inch of axial play along the axle pin. The radius arms hold the axle longitudinally though and so I thought maybe that axial play is necessary for the radius arms to be able to swing one way or the other. (might pull the axle back or push it forward as they do.) Is there a set amount of axial play needed?
@Jason1PaАй бұрын
@delgriffith1 I don't have any hands on experience with the 860 front ends,but looking on the parts diagram it appears that I don't see any spacers listed which seems rather odd. On the 8N it does call for one spacer then a washer/spacer. I added more cause there was enough slop. I jacked up the front high and rocked the front end up and down and there was no binding. You do need some play for front to back movement, but it's not much. I try to keep the strain off of the radius arms where they insert into the socket near where you feet go.
@delgriffith1Ай бұрын
@@Jason1Pa Makes sense that it wouldn't need a lot of play back and forth to accommodate radius arm swing. The full inch of slop concerns me on my 860. Tempting to put in spacers but at the same time that was the design it seems.
@Jason1PaАй бұрын
@delgriffith1 Yeah I wish I could offer more help or even look at another one but I don't know anyone that has one. It just doesn't seem right to have that movement.
@SevenOaksOutdoorsАй бұрын
great idea with the rolling jacks!
@Jason1PaАй бұрын
Glad you like them!
@RustyWrenchRestorationsАй бұрын
Been a few years since I've watched your videos.... nice to see them again and remember just how good they are! Very informative and professionally put together! Thank you for all the help and motivation over the years!
@Jason1PaАй бұрын
Thanks Steve!! I really want to get back into making some more videos just haven't found a project worth filming. Fingers crossed that will change. Tomorrow I'm heading out to the Northeast John Deere Expo out in Lancaster Ohio. I'll definitely be looking at the crawlers differently now!🤣
@RustyWrenchRestorationsАй бұрын
Awesome! Have a safe and fun trip... and YES! Please make more videos! Just one walking around that show would be great!
@danielkuczka5297Ай бұрын
On a 2n tractor do you press the outer wheel seal on the hub assembly to the ledge or even with the hub?
@Jason1PaАй бұрын
I'm sorry it took so long to get back to you. KZread sometimes doesn't notify me when I get a message. The seal gets pressed in the whole way.
@charlesstephenson1352Ай бұрын
Do you have repair for 8n pto won’t stay engaged
@Jason1PaАй бұрын
I don't have a in depth video unfortunately however here are a couple things. You can check. Grab the PTO shaft (tractor off of course and override clutch off) and see if there is any in and out movement. There really shouldn't be any. If there is there could be a bad snap ring,bearing, etc, damaged causing that slop and creating it to jump out of gear. There is also a small spring and ball (detent ball) in the bearing coupler. That is what your PTO lever hooks up too. If that spring or ball is damaged it will be weak and cause it to jump out of gear. Here is a video of the bearing coupler if your not familiar. Fast forward to the 16:40 mark. kzread.info/dash/bejne/Y22tq7aQdbrJks4.htmlsi=zJNPUu4OmXx1F_Vd
@brianvannest467Ай бұрын
Hi! I was watching this bc I recently bought an 8n and it is missing the lock washer and nut on both pitman arms. Is there anything special about those parts or can I just go to the hardware store for replacements?
@Jason1PaАй бұрын
It's unlikely you will find a nut that size a fine tread at a hardware store. I searched through some parts places and to my surprise I don't see new ones. Your best bet is to contact someone that is parting out a 8n to get you some.
@yogibeer9319Ай бұрын
This video is gold! I have the same problem on the same side lol. Thanks for a great video!
@Jason1PaАй бұрын
Good to hear! Thanks for watching!
@eby2257Ай бұрын
We always had a Silver King on the farm. Great for pulling wagons on the road. Ours was clocked at 27 MPH. I thought it was very nice to drive, but I grew up with it. Beautiful Job.
@Jason1PaАй бұрын
Thanks!! Yes they like to get out boogie down the road!
@atvirotechinc6115Ай бұрын
I just watched your video and learned a lot. How do I contact you? I have lots of questions, and I even need some help with mine. I have a 12 volt alternator, so I think that my tractor has been upgraded to 12 volt. I will check tomorrow to see if I have the wire connection at the top of the distributor cap. That is a tell tell sign that the electrical system has been upgraded. I do need to talk to you to learn more stuff.
@Jason1PaАй бұрын
Thanks for watching!! You can email me at [email protected] with questions.
@atvirotechinc6115Ай бұрын
I just bought a 1947 Ford tractor a week ago, and it was running and driving just fine. I did some repairs, cleaned the engine, and I tried to start it today, Sunday. It turns over just fine, but it will not start. I changed out the solenoid because I broke the old one trying to remove the wires to clean them. Can you help me get my tractor started?
@Jason1PaАй бұрын
I'm sorry I just noticed your reply. Did you get it going?
@whspioneer892 ай бұрын
Should’ve put the flathead V8 conversion in at the same time
@Jason1PaАй бұрын
I don't like how the hoods look after that. Unless it's a 60hp one and the hood doesn't need altered
@moparornocar37642 ай бұрын
Do you have a video that showed how a properly adjusted clutch should work. Zillion vids on adjusting none shows you exactly how the clutch should travel and work properly. Thanks
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
Not on a 8n
@moparornocar37642 ай бұрын
@@Jason1Pa ok thanks. Any that style tractor would probably do. Can you tell me on an 8n should the peddle travel all the way down when pressed down? It’s stopping right after the free play. Just bam that’s it. About half way down. Thanks
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
@moparornocar3764 Yes it should go all the way down to the running board. If not it almost sounds like your pressure plate is stuck
@moparornocar37642 ай бұрын
As I split it again the clutch plate had slipped a little & wouldn’t let the shaft into the pilot because I tried the alignment tool and it wouldn’t slide in. Next time I tightened the pressure plate evenly and made sure the tool would slide all along through the process. So it is back in the pilot now everything looks good peddle goes down a lot further. I guess it’s in the adjustment now. Going try and adjust it tomorrow.
@moparornocar37642 ай бұрын
Well I split it again ,three times. This time I’m going to adjust the fingers on the pp. they aren’t being pressed. Seems it isn’t touching the fingers. I’m gona try and tighten them down some to pull the fingers up. Do you know of an easy way to do this , some say 060 not sure where or what to measure. Thanks again.
@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork2 ай бұрын
5:10 Notes to self: Never change this! 😂
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
🤣😂😅 Sometimes you have no choice. Just hope that you don't have a stubborn one.
@dougmay43962 ай бұрын
Great video. Thanks
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
Thanks your welcome!
@danielkuczka52972 ай бұрын
What ton press do you have?
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
20 Ton
@laurabinns8192 ай бұрын
Great video, helped a lot with my installation. One thing I found out, by accident when looking on an antique tractor forum, is that the Pertronix part needs suppression spark plug wires, not the standard wires with a steel or copper core. I called Pertronix and they confirmed this. It's not mentioned in the instructions. Steiner Tractor has them, so does a company called Brillman. Pertronix says without the suppression wires, the electronic ignition can fail.
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
You are absolutely correct. At the time of this video I was not aware of this until 4 years later. As you said it's not in the directions. Fortunately. In my opinion the cheap square coils we have available today are pretty weak compared to the round oil filled coils. In my opinion they don't produce enough juice to create the electromagnetic pulse that could destroy the module. I have since replaced all the plug wires on all my Fords just to be safe, but I had several hours on the old copper wires with no issues.
@WillSmithHitandMiss2 ай бұрын
Nice the weather turned out so well !! Sorry I missed it
@WillSmithHitandMiss2 ай бұрын
Awesome!
@WillSmithHitandMiss2 ай бұрын
Very nice M!!!
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
Thanks Will!!
@jjay7182 ай бұрын
Hi Jason. I ordered the same 12v conversion kit from Just8ns and the same Pertronix kit for my 8N. Its ok to run the red wire to the top of the coil since that is connecting through the resistor? I have the 12 volt 2.5 Ohms coil so it needs a resistor but I thought the pertronix wants battery voltage. The pertronix directions did not make this clear though.
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
Sorry for the late reply. Sometimes KZread doesn't notify me until later that someone posted a comment. This debate comes up often and I agree the directions need to be better. I currently have all 3 of my Fords having the red wire to the top of the coil. Only one of them needed a extra resistor and I have it right into the coil wire and I haven't had any issues. Some say you need to take that red wire from the module and run it straight to the ignition. All I can say is I've never done it and never had a failure.
@jasonerb25772 ай бұрын
It never goes that easy for me. lol
@TheFarmacySeedsNetwork2 ай бұрын
Checking this out quick on my phone, coming back to watch it in its entirety as I discovered a leaking axle seal on my Ford 9N. At a glance, it seems like you might use AVS video editor. Also. Just found and subscribed to your channel, cheers!
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
Yes I do use AVS. Hope this helps you on your repair. If you need help just ask
@georgem.kokindajr.9412 ай бұрын
Good job! & good video too.
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
Thanks George!!
@jjay7182 ай бұрын
Nice Video. Wish you could still get those radiators for $200 lol.
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
Where are you looking at? Just8ns and Dennis Carpenter are at 289 last I checked. Still cheaper then getting them fixed at a local shop. Last shop I went to said at least 600
@jjay7182 ай бұрын
@@Jason1Pa yeah I got a new one from Just8ns for the 289 plus shipping.
@benkanobe75002 ай бұрын
If I couldn't find an 8N with Sherman but a nice original 54 (Jubilee I think they are called.) Is there anything I should know about them that isn't good and should I just stick with an 8N?
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
If it is a 54 it would be known as a model NAA . The Golden Jubilee is a NAA but in 1953 (Fords 50th Anniversary) the NAA is referred to a Golden Jubilee. The only thing different about a 1953 is the emblem that says Golden Jubilee. They are a big improvement over the 8N. First is the overhead valve engine, better hydraulics ,etc.
@benkanobe75002 ай бұрын
That is one fine set of bearing/seal press pucks. Where do I get a set of those for my press?
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
Harbor Freight has them.
@benkanobe75002 ай бұрын
Jason. Thank You! This KZread is priceless. You could be a Professional Teacher as you explain enough for understanding and clarity but don't go on and on just to prove how much you know. You show us just how to do it. I am so thankful I found this KZread of yours.
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
Awesome! Thank you for the compliments! Sometimes I get told I talk to much,but I like to explain things the best I can. I could go on and on,but realize I'll lose people's attention. Unfortunately this day in age people just want a quick answer and nothing else.
@benkanobe75002 ай бұрын
Could you/can you build up worn shift forks with weld and then grind back down to original dimension(s) at those wear points you showed us?
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
I've personally never done it,but I've heard of others do it. However I would expect if they are that worn I'd bet all the other important parts are worn-out beyond repair. Like the output shaft and counter shaft. At that point I'd call the whole thing junk
@benkanobe75002 ай бұрын
This is a very dumb question from a guy that has wanted one of these tractors for 20 years and I am now able to purchase one and so I am reviewing all the current information I can: Why couldn't you drill a hole directly below the Sherman drain plug that would fit a larger drain plug allowing you access to the Sherman drain plug and the ability to plug the access hole? Am I making sense here?
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
Hi! Yes this question comes up often. Some things to consider are 1) The hole you would need to drill in the tractor to have access to the plug of the Sherman would need to be fairly large to make sure the oil that's being drained exits completely or it could touch the flywheel and get flung all over the clutch. 2) drilling yet another hole even larger then the one for the shifter lever could possibly have a effect on the strength of the casting. 3) You could put a pipe up in there and have it exit the bottom with a cap on it BUT with the tractor so low to the ground it wouldn't take much to break the pipe off one something. The Sherman doesn't really hold that much oil. Even if that oil is nasty it would be diluted fairly good in the fresh 5 gallons of the main transmission. Another thing is if you'd drain the Sherman empty there is no way to add new oil to it. Oil would need to work its way in there with the oil slinger and that could take a while of driving for that to happen. The Sherman would be turning for a while with little to no oil for a while.
@benkanobe75002 ай бұрын
@@Jason1Pa Dumb me...
@Jason1Pa2 ай бұрын
@@benkanobe7500 The only way to know is to ask. Thanks for watching.
@paulmilam16852 ай бұрын
Been running one of these for 30 years .
@bryanmartin22713 ай бұрын
If you're tires were 12-4 -28 she would run faster but i like the 11-2-28 myself good videos many thanks
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
Yes. I have another ford with brand new 12.4x28 on it. Sometimes I wished they were not on there. Pros and cons to it.
@bryanmartin22713 ай бұрын
I just got a 52 8n yesterday for $270 +$130 for fuel to make the long trip to my excitement upon seeing the left side it has this combo handle by looking at the foot peddle s brake n clutch no wear the draw bars aren't beat up hymen joints are tight steering is tight unfortunately engin is stuck she's getting a full rebuild I hope to put it in creeping gear and leave it there many thanks for your videos
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
That's awesome!! It's so hard to find any old tractor these days that are not worn-out. I leave my Sherman in Standard drive. Only use High to go down the road in 4th. To me the regular gearing is fine other then reverse. Even with the Sherman in low it still doesn't slow it down enough. The Sherman is a good conversation piece, but I'd never invest in another one again.
@jjay7183 ай бұрын
Great video again. Do you know how to get the rear pinion out of the 8n? I got my axle housings off and the diff out and now want to remove the pinion assembly. I thought you could just unbolt it and tap it out? I dont want the ring gear off the diff just the pinion assembly out of the case.
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
It's not easy. You have to break off rivets on the gear end. Then you have double nuts that need to come off in the splines side. Why do you want to remove it? Unless the gear is totally trashed or bearing is bad let it be. Some people will even get a whole other housing with one in it already and place.
@jjay7183 ай бұрын
@@Jason1Pa thanks. I am restoring the tractor and painting everything. I wanted to take everything out of the housing and get it dipped in acid. The animation from Just8ns makes it look like it just bolts in.
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
@jjay718 No unfortunately it doesn't just bolt in. If you look at that metal piece that directs the oil it is riveted in
@jjay7183 ай бұрын
@@Jason1Pa I dont want to take that piece out that directs oil. Someone said you can bolt a slide hammer to the front of the pinion shaft where it is threaded. Sucks to take it down this far and not be able to remove the pinion.
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
@jjay718 That I don't know. If I remember correctly that piece needs to come off. There is like a plate that holds that bearing in place on that end. My memory is a little fuzzy plus I've never taken one out. I just remember guys choosing to swap out the rears simply to avoid that repair. There has to be a reason. I'm curious let me know what you find out.
@jjay7183 ай бұрын
After watching this video and the Just8ns animation I took my trans apart yesterday. Was easy to take apart but probably not fun to replace those bearings.
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
It's not too bad. Heat is your friend or shop press will get it done too
@chippydog23 ай бұрын
You didn’t say anything about when you changed the thermostat which way is it installed!
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
I guess because I didn't change it.🤣 However pointed side facing radiator.
@fuesselfc3 ай бұрын
Lots of comments but can’t find one with the wiring harness part number or location to get one
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
Everything (all parts) were purchased from Just8ns .com
@fuesselfc3 ай бұрын
If all my wiring is current and good, can I just change the points to the EI?
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
@fuesselfc Yes. However you need to test the coil for resistance to see if you need a extra resistor or not.
@fuesselfc3 ай бұрын
Ok, I know I currently have a 12v setup, ballast resistor back of dash, and no additional resistor in line
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
@fuesselfc So you will want to do a ohms test on your coil. If you are not in the resistance of 3.0 to 3.5 I'd highly recommend adding one of those simple white ceramic resistors in the wire that goes to the coil.
@jessieharris82043 ай бұрын
I have a jubilee. I purchased a step up/ down. How do I make sure it's correct for my tractor? Hate to split it if it's incorrect.
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
Simply look at the input shaft of the Sherman and count the splines. For a N series and NAA /Jubilee you need 10 splines to fit. If it is 15 splines it won't. Those are for the newer 100 series tractors.
@jessieharris82043 ай бұрын
@@Jason1Pa just to clarify. It has 10 spline input. The man I got it from said it came off a 9n with a 3 speed. And mine is a golden jubilee with a 4 speed. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
@jessieharris8204 OK sounds good!! Are you sure it is a combo transmission with Standard, High, and Low? They will fit a 9N,but it's not as common to have those in a 9N or 2N simply they were not available at the time when the 9N/2Ns were being produced. If it is a combo it just means someone put it in that 9N way later in life. If the shifting lever is curved like the one in the video then you for sure have a combo. If the lever is straight you have a step up transmission.
@jessieharris82043 ай бұрын
@Jason1Pa I'm not home to double check. But I might have my son make a video of it and send it. I think it's freedom eagle TV is the channel name. Thank you again!
@vermontjeff25353 ай бұрын
What’s the best place to get a water pump for my 9N ? ,, thanks
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
I only get Ford parts from Just8ns or Dennis Carpenter
@vermontjeff25353 ай бұрын
Thanks
@jjay7183 ай бұрын
Nice job. My 48 needs the same seal. I like the idea of doubling them up.
@jjay7183 ай бұрын
Awesome rebuild. Starting mine now on a 48 8N and doing all the research I can. I want to take it down as far as you did yours and paint everything.
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
Awesome good luck!! I have way better detailed videos on repairs of the N series tractors on my channel. Unfortunately I didn't do a step by step video on this repair.
@jjay7183 ай бұрын
@@Jason1Pa I have mine down to just the trans and rear axle housing now. I have the hydraulics out of it but I want to pull the axle housings next and the rear diff like you did to clean everything. How hard is it to get the diff out? do you have to worry about preload on the diff itself when putting it back together? I also want to take apart the trans to clean it really good so I will look for a video on that.
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
@jjay718 The diff pulls right out once you take the left axle housing off. As far as bearing preload no there is no adjustment for the differential BUT buy the proper gaskets so you have the right thickness. A lot of people just use gasket maker. When that housing is bolted down all of it will squeeze out leaving no gap like the gasket does. In my opinion that's too tight on the bearings
@BigBoxDodge20203 ай бұрын
I haven't had to do this job yet.But I knew that the rope seals should have been soaked in oil before installation.
@Jason1Pa3 ай бұрын
Soaking the seals is a preference. If you look into it there are many that do and many that don't. There are even different kinds of rope seals that do and don't recommend soaking. In all honesty if you soak on of them then wipe if off and cut it in half you will see that the oil doesn't even penatrate through to the center only the very outer part. This particular tractor is still going strong and leak free by installing them dry,putting some oil/grease/assembly lube to prevent chafing and has lasted many years now. Thanks for watching
Пікірлер
I’ve got a Ford 3610 and I’m trying to remove that axle pin to replace the broken bushing. I had to take off the fan & radiator because of a broken fan blade pierced the radiator. How do I loosen the pin using a 1-5/8 socket wrench?
Nice walk though especially on the ignition . We had upgraded the 8n to 12volt long ago but electronic ignition looks like a nice addition...
@gregpratt6926 A lot of people hate it,but a lot of people love it. I currently have 4 tractors that have it and only experienced one failure and it was totally my fault. I didn't have enough resistance. My first tractor to get switched to EI was in 2004 and still going strong. One thing I failed to mention in the video is changing the copper core plug wires
Thanks very nice walk though
@@gregpratt6926 Thanks for watching!
Omg I see myself 😂
@@Unknown_divi 😂🤣 Where?
@@Jason1Pa the one with the red hair in the pink sweatshirt at the beginning in the first float LOL 0:50 😂
Excellent videos, bud. You’re building my tractor. Just one thing I’d advise for others trying and struggling with the sure seal - I did the same thing as the removal except in reverse. Used the 3” pipe and hooked the ratchet straps underneath the hub. Slow, controllable and even pressure going down. Can tap it with hammer to help guide as you add tension. Took me 10 minutes each side after struggling trying to hit it with a hammer. 😂
Hey Jason do you have an email where I can contact you I have a couple questions better to ask over email instead of flooding your comment section lol
@@Anonymous-dt6dq Sure do! It is [email protected]
@@Jason1Pa awesome! Did you get my email?
@Anonymous-dt6dq I didn't, but I checked the spam folder then It was there. Not sure why that happened..I'll reply
Do you ever rebuild Sherman step up step down transmission for other people I have one that needs rebuilt I would feel more comfortable with you doing it
@JeffSmallwood-p8i I do not. Sadly some of the key components are not available. For example the counter shaft in this particular one I later found out was worn too much to my liking so I had a local company make me one and heat treat it. That alone was 400 dollars. They are a very expensive adventure and most people would not pay or wait for someone to scrounge up parts. Even with all the work and expenses put in to this one it growls too much for my liking. If you watch my other video of me installing it into the tractor we found out that the brand new shafts teeth on the gears was not meshing well with the tractors gears so I went with the original shaft. Finding a original shaft that meets the specs would be difficult. Most of the tractors you see are pretty well beat up and so are the Sherman's. I personally would not feel comfortable rebuilding one for someone.
I wouldn’t mind trying it myself but like that pin that you made I took my plug out and mine is either broken and down under that rod or it’s just plain missing and I do not have anything to go by, also I can’t shift it that’s why I think it’s under the rod, also the main gear the one that goes in the transmission has a lot of play I can actually pull it out enough to see the bearing I may be better off parting it out
@@JeffSmallwood-p8i That is normal for the gear to come out like that. It's held in place when it's bolted together in the tractor. Finding the proper amount of shims will adjust the back and forth moments just right.
Any ideas on that pin I honestly think I could rebuild this if I know what size to make this thing, also I never saw on the video of how to start taking those two shift rods out
@JeffSmallwood-p8i The pin is 5/16 hardened steel. As far as the length I don't remember I just took a little but off here and there until it fit to my liking. It doesn't need to be real precise. As far as those rods once the detent balls/springs are removed and the set screws of the forks are removed they should slide right out.
I painfully watched another conversion video before I found yours, ty for a great edited learning video *****
@FTT143 Awesome! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Where do we order the seal and O-Ring? And the felt seal, where do we order that? This is an excellent youtube just need the parts!
@benkanobe7500 Everything Ford related in my videos the parts are purchased from Just8ns. com
@@Jason1Pa Thank you for the wonderful how to video as my tractor is leaking in that exact spot and I see so many others doing the same. On a chance, I tried Just8ns before getting this and they did not list the seal by that number but one digit higher. So I purchased two and in the notes explained I did not find the pitman arm steering shaft seal when I searched but found the one I purchased and if it wasn't correct to please advise me. They are good folks so I suspect they will fix it if I made a mistake. Thanks again and I look forward to more videos from you!
@benkanobe7500 Number:8N3591A should be what you are needing for the seal. If any questions I'd call Derek at Just8ns and ask just to be safe.
@@Jason1Pa OK. I did. (They did). Your video shows "8N3581B" which is why I was confused. But as stated, the good folks at Just8ns saw I ordered the "8N3591A" as that was what was available in the position picture for that seal so in the end, I have the correct seals. (Now I need to get the correct Felt as what was sent looks nothing like what you installed). Thanks again, excellent video!
@benkanobe7500 no problem. Glad you got it straightened out!
Curious about the shim washers and spacer on this. My 860 doesn't have any of that and there's about an inch of axial play along the axle pin. The radius arms hold the axle longitudinally though and so I thought maybe that axial play is necessary for the radius arms to be able to swing one way or the other. (might pull the axle back or push it forward as they do.) Is there a set amount of axial play needed?
@delgriffith1 I don't have any hands on experience with the 860 front ends,but looking on the parts diagram it appears that I don't see any spacers listed which seems rather odd. On the 8N it does call for one spacer then a washer/spacer. I added more cause there was enough slop. I jacked up the front high and rocked the front end up and down and there was no binding. You do need some play for front to back movement, but it's not much. I try to keep the strain off of the radius arms where they insert into the socket near where you feet go.
@@Jason1Pa Makes sense that it wouldn't need a lot of play back and forth to accommodate radius arm swing. The full inch of slop concerns me on my 860. Tempting to put in spacers but at the same time that was the design it seems.
@delgriffith1 Yeah I wish I could offer more help or even look at another one but I don't know anyone that has one. It just doesn't seem right to have that movement.
great idea with the rolling jacks!
Glad you like them!
Been a few years since I've watched your videos.... nice to see them again and remember just how good they are! Very informative and professionally put together! Thank you for all the help and motivation over the years!
Thanks Steve!! I really want to get back into making some more videos just haven't found a project worth filming. Fingers crossed that will change. Tomorrow I'm heading out to the Northeast John Deere Expo out in Lancaster Ohio. I'll definitely be looking at the crawlers differently now!🤣
Awesome! Have a safe and fun trip... and YES! Please make more videos! Just one walking around that show would be great!
On a 2n tractor do you press the outer wheel seal on the hub assembly to the ledge or even with the hub?
I'm sorry it took so long to get back to you. KZread sometimes doesn't notify me when I get a message. The seal gets pressed in the whole way.
Do you have repair for 8n pto won’t stay engaged
I don't have a in depth video unfortunately however here are a couple things. You can check. Grab the PTO shaft (tractor off of course and override clutch off) and see if there is any in and out movement. There really shouldn't be any. If there is there could be a bad snap ring,bearing, etc, damaged causing that slop and creating it to jump out of gear. There is also a small spring and ball (detent ball) in the bearing coupler. That is what your PTO lever hooks up too. If that spring or ball is damaged it will be weak and cause it to jump out of gear. Here is a video of the bearing coupler if your not familiar. Fast forward to the 16:40 mark. kzread.info/dash/bejne/Y22tq7aQdbrJks4.htmlsi=zJNPUu4OmXx1F_Vd
Hi! I was watching this bc I recently bought an 8n and it is missing the lock washer and nut on both pitman arms. Is there anything special about those parts or can I just go to the hardware store for replacements?
It's unlikely you will find a nut that size a fine tread at a hardware store. I searched through some parts places and to my surprise I don't see new ones. Your best bet is to contact someone that is parting out a 8n to get you some.
This video is gold! I have the same problem on the same side lol. Thanks for a great video!
Good to hear! Thanks for watching!
We always had a Silver King on the farm. Great for pulling wagons on the road. Ours was clocked at 27 MPH. I thought it was very nice to drive, but I grew up with it. Beautiful Job.
Thanks!! Yes they like to get out boogie down the road!
I just watched your video and learned a lot. How do I contact you? I have lots of questions, and I even need some help with mine. I have a 12 volt alternator, so I think that my tractor has been upgraded to 12 volt. I will check tomorrow to see if I have the wire connection at the top of the distributor cap. That is a tell tell sign that the electrical system has been upgraded. I do need to talk to you to learn more stuff.
Thanks for watching!! You can email me at [email protected] with questions.
I just bought a 1947 Ford tractor a week ago, and it was running and driving just fine. I did some repairs, cleaned the engine, and I tried to start it today, Sunday. It turns over just fine, but it will not start. I changed out the solenoid because I broke the old one trying to remove the wires to clean them. Can you help me get my tractor started?
I'm sorry I just noticed your reply. Did you get it going?
Should’ve put the flathead V8 conversion in at the same time
I don't like how the hoods look after that. Unless it's a 60hp one and the hood doesn't need altered
Do you have a video that showed how a properly adjusted clutch should work. Zillion vids on adjusting none shows you exactly how the clutch should travel and work properly. Thanks
Not on a 8n
@@Jason1Pa ok thanks. Any that style tractor would probably do. Can you tell me on an 8n should the peddle travel all the way down when pressed down? It’s stopping right after the free play. Just bam that’s it. About half way down. Thanks
@moparornocar3764 Yes it should go all the way down to the running board. If not it almost sounds like your pressure plate is stuck
As I split it again the clutch plate had slipped a little & wouldn’t let the shaft into the pilot because I tried the alignment tool and it wouldn’t slide in. Next time I tightened the pressure plate evenly and made sure the tool would slide all along through the process. So it is back in the pilot now everything looks good peddle goes down a lot further. I guess it’s in the adjustment now. Going try and adjust it tomorrow.
Well I split it again ,three times. This time I’m going to adjust the fingers on the pp. they aren’t being pressed. Seems it isn’t touching the fingers. I’m gona try and tighten them down some to pull the fingers up. Do you know of an easy way to do this , some say 060 not sure where or what to measure. Thanks again.
5:10 Notes to self: Never change this! 😂
🤣😂😅 Sometimes you have no choice. Just hope that you don't have a stubborn one.
Great video. Thanks
Thanks your welcome!
What ton press do you have?
20 Ton
Great video, helped a lot with my installation. One thing I found out, by accident when looking on an antique tractor forum, is that the Pertronix part needs suppression spark plug wires, not the standard wires with a steel or copper core. I called Pertronix and they confirmed this. It's not mentioned in the instructions. Steiner Tractor has them, so does a company called Brillman. Pertronix says without the suppression wires, the electronic ignition can fail.
You are absolutely correct. At the time of this video I was not aware of this until 4 years later. As you said it's not in the directions. Fortunately. In my opinion the cheap square coils we have available today are pretty weak compared to the round oil filled coils. In my opinion they don't produce enough juice to create the electromagnetic pulse that could destroy the module. I have since replaced all the plug wires on all my Fords just to be safe, but I had several hours on the old copper wires with no issues.
Nice the weather turned out so well !! Sorry I missed it
Awesome!
Very nice M!!!
Thanks Will!!
Hi Jason. I ordered the same 12v conversion kit from Just8ns and the same Pertronix kit for my 8N. Its ok to run the red wire to the top of the coil since that is connecting through the resistor? I have the 12 volt 2.5 Ohms coil so it needs a resistor but I thought the pertronix wants battery voltage. The pertronix directions did not make this clear though.
Sorry for the late reply. Sometimes KZread doesn't notify me until later that someone posted a comment. This debate comes up often and I agree the directions need to be better. I currently have all 3 of my Fords having the red wire to the top of the coil. Only one of them needed a extra resistor and I have it right into the coil wire and I haven't had any issues. Some say you need to take that red wire from the module and run it straight to the ignition. All I can say is I've never done it and never had a failure.
It never goes that easy for me. lol
Checking this out quick on my phone, coming back to watch it in its entirety as I discovered a leaking axle seal on my Ford 9N. At a glance, it seems like you might use AVS video editor. Also. Just found and subscribed to your channel, cheers!
Yes I do use AVS. Hope this helps you on your repair. If you need help just ask
Good job! & good video too.
Thanks George!!
Nice Video. Wish you could still get those radiators for $200 lol.
Where are you looking at? Just8ns and Dennis Carpenter are at 289 last I checked. Still cheaper then getting them fixed at a local shop. Last shop I went to said at least 600
@@Jason1Pa yeah I got a new one from Just8ns for the 289 plus shipping.
If I couldn't find an 8N with Sherman but a nice original 54 (Jubilee I think they are called.) Is there anything I should know about them that isn't good and should I just stick with an 8N?
If it is a 54 it would be known as a model NAA . The Golden Jubilee is a NAA but in 1953 (Fords 50th Anniversary) the NAA is referred to a Golden Jubilee. The only thing different about a 1953 is the emblem that says Golden Jubilee. They are a big improvement over the 8N. First is the overhead valve engine, better hydraulics ,etc.
That is one fine set of bearing/seal press pucks. Where do I get a set of those for my press?
Harbor Freight has them.
Jason. Thank You! This KZread is priceless. You could be a Professional Teacher as you explain enough for understanding and clarity but don't go on and on just to prove how much you know. You show us just how to do it. I am so thankful I found this KZread of yours.
Awesome! Thank you for the compliments! Sometimes I get told I talk to much,but I like to explain things the best I can. I could go on and on,but realize I'll lose people's attention. Unfortunately this day in age people just want a quick answer and nothing else.
Could you/can you build up worn shift forks with weld and then grind back down to original dimension(s) at those wear points you showed us?
I've personally never done it,but I've heard of others do it. However I would expect if they are that worn I'd bet all the other important parts are worn-out beyond repair. Like the output shaft and counter shaft. At that point I'd call the whole thing junk
This is a very dumb question from a guy that has wanted one of these tractors for 20 years and I am now able to purchase one and so I am reviewing all the current information I can: Why couldn't you drill a hole directly below the Sherman drain plug that would fit a larger drain plug allowing you access to the Sherman drain plug and the ability to plug the access hole? Am I making sense here?
Hi! Yes this question comes up often. Some things to consider are 1) The hole you would need to drill in the tractor to have access to the plug of the Sherman would need to be fairly large to make sure the oil that's being drained exits completely or it could touch the flywheel and get flung all over the clutch. 2) drilling yet another hole even larger then the one for the shifter lever could possibly have a effect on the strength of the casting. 3) You could put a pipe up in there and have it exit the bottom with a cap on it BUT with the tractor so low to the ground it wouldn't take much to break the pipe off one something. The Sherman doesn't really hold that much oil. Even if that oil is nasty it would be diluted fairly good in the fresh 5 gallons of the main transmission. Another thing is if you'd drain the Sherman empty there is no way to add new oil to it. Oil would need to work its way in there with the oil slinger and that could take a while of driving for that to happen. The Sherman would be turning for a while with little to no oil for a while.
@@Jason1Pa Dumb me...
@@benkanobe7500 The only way to know is to ask. Thanks for watching.
Been running one of these for 30 years .
If you're tires were 12-4 -28 she would run faster but i like the 11-2-28 myself good videos many thanks
Yes. I have another ford with brand new 12.4x28 on it. Sometimes I wished they were not on there. Pros and cons to it.
I just got a 52 8n yesterday for $270 +$130 for fuel to make the long trip to my excitement upon seeing the left side it has this combo handle by looking at the foot peddle s brake n clutch no wear the draw bars aren't beat up hymen joints are tight steering is tight unfortunately engin is stuck she's getting a full rebuild I hope to put it in creeping gear and leave it there many thanks for your videos
That's awesome!! It's so hard to find any old tractor these days that are not worn-out. I leave my Sherman in Standard drive. Only use High to go down the road in 4th. To me the regular gearing is fine other then reverse. Even with the Sherman in low it still doesn't slow it down enough. The Sherman is a good conversation piece, but I'd never invest in another one again.
Great video again. Do you know how to get the rear pinion out of the 8n? I got my axle housings off and the diff out and now want to remove the pinion assembly. I thought you could just unbolt it and tap it out? I dont want the ring gear off the diff just the pinion assembly out of the case.
It's not easy. You have to break off rivets on the gear end. Then you have double nuts that need to come off in the splines side. Why do you want to remove it? Unless the gear is totally trashed or bearing is bad let it be. Some people will even get a whole other housing with one in it already and place.
@@Jason1Pa thanks. I am restoring the tractor and painting everything. I wanted to take everything out of the housing and get it dipped in acid. The animation from Just8ns makes it look like it just bolts in.
@jjay718 No unfortunately it doesn't just bolt in. If you look at that metal piece that directs the oil it is riveted in
@@Jason1Pa I dont want to take that piece out that directs oil. Someone said you can bolt a slide hammer to the front of the pinion shaft where it is threaded. Sucks to take it down this far and not be able to remove the pinion.
@jjay718 That I don't know. If I remember correctly that piece needs to come off. There is like a plate that holds that bearing in place on that end. My memory is a little fuzzy plus I've never taken one out. I just remember guys choosing to swap out the rears simply to avoid that repair. There has to be a reason. I'm curious let me know what you find out.
After watching this video and the Just8ns animation I took my trans apart yesterday. Was easy to take apart but probably not fun to replace those bearings.
It's not too bad. Heat is your friend or shop press will get it done too
You didn’t say anything about when you changed the thermostat which way is it installed!
I guess because I didn't change it.🤣 However pointed side facing radiator.
Lots of comments but can’t find one with the wiring harness part number or location to get one
Everything (all parts) were purchased from Just8ns .com
If all my wiring is current and good, can I just change the points to the EI?
@fuesselfc Yes. However you need to test the coil for resistance to see if you need a extra resistor or not.
Ok, I know I currently have a 12v setup, ballast resistor back of dash, and no additional resistor in line
@fuesselfc So you will want to do a ohms test on your coil. If you are not in the resistance of 3.0 to 3.5 I'd highly recommend adding one of those simple white ceramic resistors in the wire that goes to the coil.
I have a jubilee. I purchased a step up/ down. How do I make sure it's correct for my tractor? Hate to split it if it's incorrect.
Simply look at the input shaft of the Sherman and count the splines. For a N series and NAA /Jubilee you need 10 splines to fit. If it is 15 splines it won't. Those are for the newer 100 series tractors.
@@Jason1Pa just to clarify. It has 10 spline input. The man I got it from said it came off a 9n with a 3 speed. And mine is a golden jubilee with a 4 speed. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
@jessieharris8204 OK sounds good!! Are you sure it is a combo transmission with Standard, High, and Low? They will fit a 9N,but it's not as common to have those in a 9N or 2N simply they were not available at the time when the 9N/2Ns were being produced. If it is a combo it just means someone put it in that 9N way later in life. If the shifting lever is curved like the one in the video then you for sure have a combo. If the lever is straight you have a step up transmission.
@Jason1Pa I'm not home to double check. But I might have my son make a video of it and send it. I think it's freedom eagle TV is the channel name. Thank you again!
What’s the best place to get a water pump for my 9N ? ,, thanks
I only get Ford parts from Just8ns or Dennis Carpenter
Thanks
Nice job. My 48 needs the same seal. I like the idea of doubling them up.
Awesome rebuild. Starting mine now on a 48 8N and doing all the research I can. I want to take it down as far as you did yours and paint everything.
Awesome good luck!! I have way better detailed videos on repairs of the N series tractors on my channel. Unfortunately I didn't do a step by step video on this repair.
@@Jason1Pa I have mine down to just the trans and rear axle housing now. I have the hydraulics out of it but I want to pull the axle housings next and the rear diff like you did to clean everything. How hard is it to get the diff out? do you have to worry about preload on the diff itself when putting it back together? I also want to take apart the trans to clean it really good so I will look for a video on that.
@jjay718 The diff pulls right out once you take the left axle housing off. As far as bearing preload no there is no adjustment for the differential BUT buy the proper gaskets so you have the right thickness. A lot of people just use gasket maker. When that housing is bolted down all of it will squeeze out leaving no gap like the gasket does. In my opinion that's too tight on the bearings
I haven't had to do this job yet.But I knew that the rope seals should have been soaked in oil before installation.
Soaking the seals is a preference. If you look into it there are many that do and many that don't. There are even different kinds of rope seals that do and don't recommend soaking. In all honesty if you soak on of them then wipe if off and cut it in half you will see that the oil doesn't even penatrate through to the center only the very outer part. This particular tractor is still going strong and leak free by installing them dry,putting some oil/grease/assembly lube to prevent chafing and has lasted many years now. Thanks for watching
@@Jason1Pa Thanks for the info.