Down to earth practical insights from an ordinary RC enthusiast. Jim is a former automotive engineer who loves to come up with new devices and ways of doing things. He began flying control line planes as a child. When his two boys were entering their teenage years, Jim took up RC flying with them. Self-taught their approach was to go flying until nothing would fly anymore, take the pieces home, put them together and then have another go! They especially loved dog fighting, and doing crazy stunts. More recently, Jim has entered into part-time retirement, and has gotten back into regular flying again.
Join Jim in his "man cave" as he goes through things that he has learned along the way and shares them from a very "down to earth" perspective. You will also see the exploits of other RC flyers at the Central Coast Model Aero Club in Mannering Park, NSW.
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has it got a sensitive variometer and good range? looking at this for my gliders. Don't really care about the other functions ha ha
What if you put a rotory analog switch in place of digital toggle switch? Can that be configured?
Analog switch setup would allow you to configure a rotary knob to a digital output, but most likely you would simply be assigning the knob to a channel. You would do that for continuous fine adjustment of flaps or airbrakes, etc.
Great video Jim. You clearly understand the problems of aerodynamics and can explain it simply for beginners. Cant wait to watch the rest!
Thanks 👍
Hi Jim! We met today at the Pikes Peak club with your son and grand daughter. Hope you enjoy your time here in CO. What plane do you recommend for beginners? Do you have a video explaining things for beginners?
Yes, it was great meeting you. I would recommend a FMS Ranger 1800. Most guys like the Spektrum transmitters, but they are expensive. Given that you are quite IT savvy, you might want a Radiomaster TX16S - 4 in 1. With that you get a 16 channel radio with all the 'whistles and buttons' at a cost lower than a Spektrum 6 channel radio. It's one of the preferred radios for FPV (drone) pilots. An ordinary Lemon RX 7 channel receiver will do a fine job in the plane. On second thought, you will probably want to work with an instructor at the club. Given that is the case, ask them about what transmitter to get, as it will need to be compatible with what they are using. Here are some links for you: Getting started playlist: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hp-Gr9eNZratopM.html&pp=gAQBiAQB FMS Ranger: kzread.info/dash/bejne/dIuJ2ceklcyYfpc.html Spektrum NX6: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qn6HtteYm5DQcrA.html Radiomaster TX16S: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZH6cmcGThLW5oKw.html Radiomaster with Lemon RX receiver: kzread.info/dash/bejne/lZaCr5uAdNiqabA.html Lemon RX (this is about their stabilized receiver. You don't need the stabilization as the 1800 Ranger comes with a stabilization module. Stabilization helps to automatically correct for wind gusts, etc.: studio.kzread.infocbNM9GDuD9M/edit. You will need a 4S 3300 mAh LiPo battery (or two) with XT60 connectors as well as a charger. You should be able to Google all of the above to find the lowest cost online. To get the latest Lemon RX receiver with the ability to program it from your radio, you should get it directly from them: www.lemon-rx.com. As you get into it and have questions, please ask.
I see there is now a firmware update for the NX6 that brings it up to 14 channels along with some other enhancements. That narrows the difference between it and the Radiomaster .
Hi Jim, finally I powered my SF Tri60 using this configuration: Electric Engine Dualsky XM5050EA 610kV, HRB 6S 5000mah 50C lipo battery, Hobbywing Skywalker 100A controller and 11X6 electric APC propeller. Flying weight of 3600grams. I measured 4200gr trust at full throtle and 45 amps. Flying using this configuration the plane has lots of power to climb vertically if you want and can perform basis acrobatic manoubres easily. I hope it can be usefull.
Hi Jesus, Sounds like you have a great power/plane configuration! The sky is the limit! By the way, I also think you have a great name - the same as my very best friend. Jim
With this plane, I needed to attach the receiver to the top of the opening behind the access hatch, with the receiver upside down. This meant that I could not access the stabilization pots on the Lemon RX stabilized receiver that I am using. Because of this I used velcro to hold it in place so I can remove it to make adjustments, and then press it back in place. One of our subscribers to our KZread channel noted that velcro isn’t a good idea for attaching a stabilized receiver. That’s especially true when it is attache upside down - a heavy landing might knock it loose, with disasterous results if the stabilization is on. So, I’ve come up with an idea for using a tray to attach the servo to, with a tray holder fixed to the aircraft. See our website for my sketch of the idea: rcjim.com/2024/07/13/receiver-tray-for-hard-to-access-position/
Hello Jim! Thorough video. One thing I noticed is you had your gain on S1 set with a weight of 100%. I've seen other info that said you should have a weight of 50 and an offset of 50. That way your entire sweep of the pot results in (+) movement from 0-100. Have you ever heard that? Thanks
What I can say is that it works with the -100 +100 range. Typically I have mine set in the negative territory. I think what gain does is to increase or decrease the amount of stabilization roughly by the percentage of the dial setting. I'm guessing that setting yours for a range of 0 to 100 should give you a range of 'standard' stabilization to roughly double that. Is that what you are experiencing? In the meantime I'll check with the factory guys so we can get it right from the horses mouth!
@@RCJimStill waiting on mine to be delivered so I'm not sure. Just getting prepared for it.😁 I can say that on another brand when using -100 to +100, that it doesn't seem to have any effect until you get to the right side of center on the pot. Suppose it wont hurt to hear it from the horse's mouth just to be sure. Thanks! Norm
@@TheGoodLife62 -100 to +100 is correct. Here's what Frederick from Lemon RX has to say: For some radio likes Spektrum, it uses -100% to +100% as scale with the mid-point being 0%. It's correct that -100% means stabilization very close to off (actually the Spektrum radio minimum is -150%, but -100% is almost off) and 100% will have about double of the gain. It is not recommended to have an offset for channel 8 because this will limit the scaling for one side, thus, gain tuning is not fully utilized.
@@RCJim Thanks Jim!🍻
@@TheGoodLife62 No worries! Glad to help.
Great tutorial, really helpful!
Glad to hear that! Thanks.
I recommend 3M double-sided tape instead of Velcro anytime you're attaching a stabilized Rx or a stabilizer to the airframe. It's more secure and eliminates vibrations to the stab. The only downside is it usually has to be replaced if you have to detach the Rx.
I did think about that very fact. What I am going to do is see if I can find the mounting point for the bar that is supposed to be there, and make really certain that it stays put!
A further thought about velcro on the RX. In this case, I have to pull out the RX in order to adjust the pots for stabilization. The velcro allows me to do that. Perhaps after I have finalized the settings, then I could replace the velcro with double sided tape. Alternately, perhaps attach it to a panel that slides in and out of guide rails.
Nice plane and nice landing. This is the hardest plane to land that I own. It tends to bounce on landings if not brought in very level and light on the wheels. My high rates are about 70% with the servo arm in on the nearest hole to the center. Without dialing down the throws, I find she's a handful.
That makes sense. I was quite surprised to see in the manual that they recommend using the high rates for takeoffs and landings. I think that is because the controls are a bit sluggish without a prop blowing air across the control surfaces. But I'm still using the low rates.
Nick - do you know if this is something that only recent Gen 2 receivers will do? I have a GEN 2 7 channel Stabilised receiver, but I am unsure how old it is (I bought it "new" secondhand, so don't know it's age. How long have you had your LemonRx receiver? Cheers, Mike
Hi Mike, My understanding is that this is a brand new development - first available a few weeks ago. Jim
@@RCJim OK - thanks JIm
Jim, excellent video for the DX6e and the RadiomasterTx. Have you tried this setup of the LemonRX Gen2 on a DX9? I tried this on my up to date DX9 and in the telemetry empty slot there is no TEXTGEN to select. Have you tried this with a DX9 and did it work?
Hi Fred, I don't have a DX9, but I cannot imagine that it couldn't do what could be done with a DX6e. Have you updated your firmware?
Faster with lights
So where's the spectrum finishing ?
So basically he didn't do the spectrum
@@charlesrestivo870 correct- I only go through the menu on the Radomaster because it should be the same with a Spektrum.
God bless you jim. when i press system and on the tool screen i dont have all the dsm or spektrum things you have.. it has dsm foward programming and spektrum (int). the rest is frsky crossfire expresslrs ect. i bought my tx16s secondhand with all this on there already. i setup my lemon manually and crashed on take off cause i did it a little wrong..i got it setup now but it would be so much easier and more reasuring doing it your way..i just bought my second plane after my first one being the arrows marlin edf 3 weeks ago i got the bug and bought a futura 80mm.. it hasnt arrived yet but will be putting another lemon in and really want to avoid setting it up wrong again. would really appreciate all your help. kind regards. Brett
Hi Brett, you need to update the firmware in your transmitter. Have a look at kzread.info/dash/bejne/gp-Fs7J7h6jYZJs.html. It's a bit on the complicated side. One day I'll produce my own video on how to do that as simple as possible, but for now you can do your best to follow the instructions from others. The Edge TX site has basic instructions, and KZread videos give some further help.
What a good landing!
Fortunately the vibration on the stick from my nerves didn't mess it up!
Jim, you certainly captured the great activities on our field that day.
Yes, and it was a good day. I thought about saying something about the snow skier visiting the club that day, but figured that the viewers would figure out what that was about! :-)
The instructions that come with the skywalker are easy to follow, so you don’t have to have a card. Also, if you lose your plane and can’t find it, there is a way to get the esc to make noise, aiding with recovery.
Thanks for sharing.
Hi is there a video on how to connect the hobby wing 80amp skywalker v2 aircraft esc with a Hobbywing LED program box? I cant get mine to work no videos at all anywhere?
The only one I have for Hobbyking Skywalker is this one that you have watched.
Thanks for your reply I’ve sent a message to Hobbywing asking for a video on how to connect the skywalker v2 esc to the LED program Box, I also noticed that the new V2 esc has trust reverse wire so I wonder if that wire needs to be plugged into the program box as well. Theses a heap of videos on how to use the program box with the car esc but not the v2 aircraft esc and I can’t get it working
I found this video that helps kzread.info/dash/bejne/oaOEzaabprPel6Q.htmlsi=Cmp1O1ua6tSblcmr
Excellent, glad to hear that!
Wow this is cool!! I didn’t know that! Thanks Jim!
It's brand new - wasn't available until very recently.
It's brand new - wasn't available until very recently.
@@RCJimdo I need to upgrade something to get it?
I don't know if a simple firmware update will give the Gen 2 features, but I'll ask the guys at the factory.
@@RCJim thanks!
I've got one of these laying here unused. My hobby budget got the Axe and don't know if it will ever come back.
A common issue with many of us. That's why I have been searching for products such as the Lemon RX receivers to bring the costs down without sacrificing quality and capability.
While I can appreciate the work and effort you put into this presentation, The Knowledge is mostly un used in the world of Buy a chunk of Packaging material shaped like a Plane. Then, go and fly/crash it . Then if you're a gluten, Do it all over again. I watched the whole thing and even understand it but I just want a cheap toy Plane to PLAY with.
That's great unless your toy plane crashes because it wasn't configured properly. None-the-less, at times I do get carried away with trying to understand every little thing about our hobby. For me there's a lot of interest in working out the details of how things work, and how we can make them better.
enjoyed it so much i watched twice thank you again
Thanks! I actually watched it again myself yesterday - just to make sure that it's still all good.
great video thanks so much
Glad it was helpful!
Great tutorial Jim! Thanks
Thanks. If you are interested in the Lemon RX receivers, check out our recent video on programming their new Gen 2 receivers with your transmitter: kzread.info/dash/bejne/lZaCr5uAdNiqabA.html
Great video, Jim. Thanks! However, I couldn't unlock my AR636A because I couldn't register it on the Spectrum website. The message from the system is, 'This product cannot be registered.' Any tips would be appreciated.
Perhaps someone else has registered it, and has not released it. Did you get it second hand?
@@RCJim Yes I did, It was working on a Corsair S (HBZ8200)
I think the previous owner would have to notify Spektrum through their website to indicate that they no longer own it.
Ty very much for your video but iwant to understand whtas the importance to know the cg during the design of the aircraft and will be the wight distrbuited around it? Or what? And there is cg for wing and another one for the aircraft totaly in general iam not understand why we know the place of cg during design can you rxolain to me please
No worries. The Centre of Gravity is the balance point for the entire aircraft. It's important because if it is too far forward or aft, you will not be able to control the plane. Too far forward and it will just dive towards the ground as the airspeed lowers. Too far backward, and it doesn't want to fly straight. As the weight of the plane needs to be supported by the wing, the point where the lift on the wing is centred needs to be close to where the weight of the whole plane is centred. When you balance a plane on your fingers, you are basically doing the same sort of thing - as long as your fingers are on the fore-aft location of where the lift is centred. I'll give this some more thought and see if I can do another video to explain it clearly.
Thanks for this video. Regarding your point at 12:47, does this also apply to modifications where the RC plane (a flying wing) is extended in length (at the tail end) but no changes to the wing surfaces? Does the CG point move? Or just moving weight around to maintain the original CG should suffice? Thanks.
If you added a tail onto a flying wing, the weight of the tail would move the CG towards the back. The location of lift on the wing would not change. So, you would need to add weight to the front to get it to balance near the centre of lift.
@@RCJim Thanks for your response/clarification.
Glad to help!
No worries.
Anyone using this on a radiomaster tx16s or any of the opentx or Edgetx tx?
Yes, I have used it with my Radiomaster TX16s with Edge TX. I use DSM X2F for the protocol. The radio complains that the signal strength is low, but it seems that this is due to Spektrum having a different system for reporting signal strength than Radiomaster. I have not experienced any actual control problems. But it is a bit un-nerving!
@@RCJim I am having trouble setting up the safe mode. I have a 3 position switch set as my flight mode switch on my radiomaster tx16s and that appears to kind of work as in FM1 I can use that switch to turn off the gyro and in FM2 and FM3 I get AS3X. However I want FM3 to activate SAFE But I can't t get it to do that. The AR636A rx has safe built in and I believe SAFE has been activated within the rx as on start up the control surfaces do the double dance confirming that it is in SAFE mode but when I flick the FM 3 position switch the plane doesn't try and correct its self from inverted to the right way up. Pls help if you're able to.
@@786free1 Sorry, right offhand I’m not sure of what to do with that. I don’t use SAFE at all. I can say that the plane will do its start up dance when only AS3X is being used.
@@RCJim I managed to get it working. Thanks any way and keep making the very helpful videos.
Glad to hear that!
Awesome videos truly helps me grow in understanding how to get set up for my DIY builds!
Glad to hear it!
Thanks, very helpful 👍
Very welcome!
The 90mm Freewing F/A-18C isn't exactly the easiest EDF to fly. I fly mine off a 350' paved runway and probably wouldn't fly it off grass. I originally used a Spektrum AR636 AS3X/SAFE receiver that I reprogrammed to have SAFE mode with bank/pitch limiting and self-leveling because it's very hard to see when it drops below the trees around our field. I just replaced the AR636 with an AR637T so that I could have telemetry for the flight pack voltage.
Yes, it is a bit of a challenge getting it up off the grass, but our paved runway is only about 100 feet long. However, I didn't use the flaps on takeoff. I'll use partial flaps the next time. And this is now our wet time of year. In the summer the ground will be harder and the grass less 'grabby.' So, what could go wrong? :-)
@@RCJim I like to use 15° of flaps for all takeoffs and 30 to 40 degrees for landing (depending on the plane) if the wind is calm.
I love this plane. Was about to get the XFly-Model T-7A Red Hawk 80mm, but I rationalized myself into the real McCoy and pulled the trigger on this beautiful bird! #3 = Left Wingman. BTW, great idea for a plane hanger store. I think I'll copy you...
Yes, I like the plane and the hanger on pulleys. Pulling the rope to get up and down, however, can be a bit of a challenge in that I have things on the wall that get in the way...
Great flight Jim!!!!!!! Looks great 👍🏻🇬🇧
Thanks 👍
There is a small piece of wood about 2in. X 1/2in. That sits over the ESC, holding it in its little pocket of foam. It's both Screwed and glued in place I think. I've had to rebuild my F-18 with new fuselage so that's how I came across that piece. Most everyone with this plane has had some weird flight control problem or gear problem problem... sometimes intermittent. We resolved that by skipping the control box and plugging all the Flight controls directly into the receiver. I've keep the blue box for my lights and landing gear only. Other's just take it out all together. Very few people have kept the control box in there with stock connections. It's a hard plane to get set up and dialed in. Some have terrible trimming on maiden.. I did. And almost universally... everyone agrees that this will maiden and fly much better with the CG at between 100mm to 110mm. Mine flew very well at 105mm. I've done wrecked mine twice. Both times pilot error. This last time I was in a hurry with a very short flight window and I forgot to take out the uncharged battery that I left in there for front end ballast for transport and to save battery power by using it to check out everything before flight. So I never switched out the battery and thus never positioned it for proper CG. It didn't go well!!! Never get in a hurry when going flying. I usually take more prep time than most people.... but not this time. Now i have to build my second one that I had as a backup in the box. So be ready to trim hard once airborne. You may not have to. Some people don't have to. A lot do. While a CG of 105 is great, I had to put in about 34 units (clicks) of left trim to fly level. So just be ready for it. I think even the slightest disparity between the two elevators having no solid reference points to measure from or the slightest disparity between the flaps, even when fully retracted will cause unwanted roll. Don't get to many complicated flight modes. You won't have enough time in the air as fast as this Flys to think about all those different settings. I strongly suggest bypassing the blue control box for the flight controls after seeing your elevator issue. if you choose to bypass the blue box.... simply discard the white ribbon cable. if you remove the little board that the ribbon strip connects to at each wing root, you will find that on the back side is just the basic servo connection for the aileron and the flap plugged into the back side of that small circuit board. just plug and route a servo extension lead from the servo cable at the wing route to the reciever. You may need an extension from the elevator Y connection to the receiver as well, depending on where you mount the receiver. That's all up to you. Nose wheel steering would not work hooked up to the blue control box, but worked fine on a servo tester. So I had to run the steering servo to an open channel on my receiver as well. There you have it. It's been a different experience for everyone it seems. Everyone seems to agree on the CG issue though.... 100mm-110mm. Good luck.
Hi Mark, Thanks for the detailed information. That's very helpful. Mine didn't have the piece of wood to hold the ESC in place. I did maiden the jet today. I waited until the dew evaporated off the grass. I used the factory setup with the box and all - mainly because I felt I needed to evaluate it that way for my KZread watchers. It took a long takeoff runup, but with both of my flights it was able to get up OK without any big control issues. It needs a bit of aileron trim, but everything else was good. I didn't try to do anything fancy, just flew circuits. First landing was quite good, the second one I got it a bit squirrly, and it poked a wingtip into the turf. Just broke off the missle rack, but an easy fix. It certainly was a bit nerve wracking, but given that the battery doesn't last very long, at least that is limited!
I also only use the Blue Box for LG and lights. I also added an Assan AG-61 Gyro for the nosewheel. It disables the steering servo with wheels up without using a separate channel, but I put my NWS on a separate channel anyway. I'm using a Spektrum AR8360T. It allows me to trim the nosewheel separately and have full span flaps by putting ailerons on their own channel. Everything else plugs into the Rx. Since I fly off grass exclusively, I covered the cheater vent with wire screen after removing the plastic louvers. It keeps the ESC and EDF motor cleaner. It's a pain cutting the vent loose from the belly but it's worth it in the end. The front of the cover is held in place with a magnet. That allows me to get both hands inside easily when working on the EDF, ESC and EDF ducts. I also lined the inside and outside of the duct work with reinforced packing tape to hold the plastic piece of the main wheel wheels in place where it is part of the duct work. Those plastic pieces can come out and no one sells replacements. I have the servos setup for max torque, not max throws. I always use thick double-sided tape, NOT Velcro, to secure my Rxs or Stabs to the model. It's much more stable with tape.
i use the same receiver as well. I also use an unused trimmer switch assigned to the channel i have the steering servo plugged into in order to manually trim the steering. I set the mix on my rudder channel to operate the nose wheel steering and like you, i have it only activated when the gear switch is down. So, when gear is selected up, the nose wheel steering servo is essentially deactivated. Our set ups are about the same i think...except for the gyro you mentioned for the nose wheel steering. Can't seem to picture that or wrap my mind around that.
@@markhyde43 I'm using the control box that came with the plane for everything, so the stabilization for yaw is working both the nose wheel and the rudder when on the ground. I do like the idea of having the nose wheel on a separate channel, so that it can be set up with a separate trim. I've noticed when taxiing the jet down my driveway, that to trim the nose wheel to make it go straight, it ends up with a bit of offset in the rudders. Practically, it's not a big deal as I'm used to working the rudder on takeoff to keep it straight, but having the trim right certainly helps.
Prop up the low wing
Not sure what you are saying.
The repair is continuing, thank you for your patience. I've got the covering nearly complete, but ran out of material. It's looking good!
Further investigation following the video: The ESC was loose, likely dangling down in the air duct in front of the fan. Velcroed it in place and thrust increased to just over 3 kg. Still less than what we would have liked, but better than the 2.6 kg that we measured after the flight. Checked servo connections to the flight box, they were all in. Still guessing as to why the stabilators were going crazy, but they are in the back of the plane, and maybe some of the moisture found its way into their circuits. And certainly, for the motor, the ESC would have been dangling right in front of a blast of mist sucked up from the dew on the grass. Thrust would have been further decreased by grass clippings across the bottom intake. I'm going to try again later this week when things have dried out a bit.
The model should have come with a wooden bar with rubber on the side against the ESC. A screw on each end of the bar goes into a wood piece in the recess on each side of the ESC mounting cutout in the foam. If you remove the louvered cheater vent cover, and replace the louvers with screen, it will keep the ESC and EDF cleaner. The slats cut out easily with snips. I added 3 pieces of popsicle sticks across and under the screen to prevent sagging. I added a magnet to the front of the louver and recessed a magnet to the airframe at the front of that cheater vent so I could easily access the ESC/EDF duct work area. The plastic piece separating the main wheel wells and the EDF ducts can come off and get lost. I recommend adding reinforced packing tape to both sides but at least to the wheel well sides to keep it from coming off. No one sells replacements. If tape is added inside the duct, be sure the overlap is front to back and inspect regularly to make sure it isn't coming loose.
@@hifinsword I don't see your comment here about TextGen - it came through to my email. That wasn't available for Lemon RX at the time I did this video. Since then I've done a video to tell people about it: kzread.info/dash/bejne/lZaCr5uAdNiqabA.html
Very clear instructions and very informative , especially for a newbie. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video!
And especially nice flying!
are the floats foam? (just got foam floats on my rc plane and i wanted to know if it could land on grass like this one)
I don't remember, but we have a lot of amphibious foam planes that both take off and land on the grass. The biggest problem is getting them off the ground on takeoff. A heavy dew on the grass helps!
How would you set a large model that has two servos for the ailerons and two servos for the elevator? I couldn't see a protocol foe that.
Just use mixing for each of them. If you are using the Radiomaster, that's done in the mixing section. This plane has that for the ailerons. So, have a look at what we have done there, and then do the same sort of thing for the elevators. The only difference is that with the aileron the direction is reversed, where it is not for the elevator. Let me know if you still need help and I'll do a quick video for you step by step.
@@RCJimthanks but I'm still not sure what u mean. What do uean by 'this plane has that for the ailerons'?.
In that video I show how to set up a plane using a separate channel for each aileron. You use mixing to generate the signal for the second aileron. If you want to use separate channels for the elevator servos, then you would do the same sort of thing. You would use mixing to generate the signal for the second elevator channel from the standard elevator channel. Of course, you could also simply use a Y cable for the elevators to have the same signal operate both. Generally that is also done for ailerons unless you want flapperons.
Thanks Jim. Do you have your stablization switch off when it's away from you and on when it's towards you? How would I go about programming ir so it's off when the three position switch is away fe me and on when it's in their delivery and not active when it's close to me?
I have it off when it is away from me. To make that the opposite, for Radiomaster just reverse the channel under outputs. For Spektrum reverse it up at the top of the menu.
It's really not that hard folks.
Agreed. Sometimes I get carried away with my passion for engineering precision. Holding you plane up in the air on your fingers will do quite an adequate job.
"your plane" Once I wanted to be an engineer, now I are one... :-)
Thank you so muh for the video!
No worries, glad to do it. This one got captions, as requested by Mario, a subscriber in Italy who regularly interacts with me. More videos to come. As you develop new products, feel free to send me one to review, and I will do my best to produce a video for it.
LoL those trees will get you.... I've never done a range test, and my crashes have definitely been me !!! Don't think I've ever glitched 😉🙃😎 NZ
I understand what you are saying about the trees. We have them all around our flying field. A couple of times we have even had someone crash into the tree over the pit area!
For the money i think flysky is awesome..... Ive only used the fs-i6x and it's a lot more than a 6 channel TX...... I truly don't understand why pay almost 9 times more for a dx6 or more for the nx6 and then the over priced RX etc etc ...... Such a great alternative if you're frugal and don't need the T-shirt or neckstrap 😉🙃😎 NZ
Yes, I've been using mine for a good while now. I've only had one possible glitch, and that could have been a burst of wind as I was over trees rather low on a windy day. Unfortunately, mine doesn't have a range check. I would really like to have that.
My AR 636A I done all the steps that you explained on your video. I went to forward program and all I got was a red screen that said I was not connected. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong but I must be doing something wrong if you send me a note, explaining maybe what I’ve done wrong? Thank you.
Hi Allen, Strange things do happen, especially when you are trying to get a Spektrum product to do something out of the ordinary. Without being there I really can't say what the problem is. What I can say is that I often have problems working with things like that, and I keep on trying, going back through all the steps, and many times I get it to work - but not all the time. Do you have servos connected to it? If so, try it without them being connected.
I have no servos connected to it. I sent it to Utah to a friend of mine and see if he can work with it. He is pretty good with stuff like that hopefully, we can get him to work. Thanks for replying.
a little too complicated to program for me, I have two sitting around, hopefully they'll create a better way to configure the model types, perhaps through a computer web site for us clumsy fingers flyer's lol
It certainly is true that the Radiomaster is more complex to program than a Spektrum. And, of course, in this video I am showing you a rather complex situation with both flaperons and a separate nose wheel servo. But, I think the Lemon RX receiver is every bit as easy to setup as the Spektrum stabilized receiver if you are using a Spektrum radio.
@@RCJim Im sure its easy for many to program but for me it's been a challenge to select the model types, for some reason i can't understand to different color combinations
@@williewideback Yes, I know what you mean. If you look really close for the brightest spots, that's the individual lights. It also helps to know the order that they flash - you then know what to expect each time it changes. If that still isn't clear enough, take it out of the plastic case. Press in with a pen on the tabs on the side, and it comes apart easily. You might then need to use something softer than a pen for pressing the buttons. But, looking at it without the distortion from the case should make it easy to work out what is flashing. While you are at it, you might want to stick a piece of electrical tape to the bottom of the inside of the case. That will keep the internal circuit board from rattling around in there. I haven't had any noticable problems with that, but given that it is using an accelerometer for stabilising, it seems like it could be a problem.
Hello Jim , per favore ricordati di abilitare i sottotitoli , così possiamo seguire il video con più piacere
OK, proverò a farlo
fatto!
range test is the most important thing in my opinion! Yes, of course including that it performs the servo commands!
Yes, that makes sense!
Brilliant. Thanks so much for this. A complex subject made so simple to understand
Glad it was helpful!