Adamant IT is a small computer repair shop in Shaftesbury, England.
This channel covers repairs and hardware reviews, exploring tech and making mid-to-high level repairs accessible to enthusiasts or other aspiring repair specialists.
Check out Adamant IT 2 for the Pod Cast and More: kzread.info
I stream on games Thursdays and Sundays, 7pm UK: twitch.tv/nethesem
Join the Discord right here: discord.gg/BDV4hTc
Support the channel directly at: patreon.com/adamantit
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im a year late on this video but I certainly enjoy Graham... a pleasant voice and fun with learning on sometimes random evenings, very informative and entertaining... 250k soon!
WOW the UK is a bit different than the US... Here, if theres not a car run thru a wall your good to go, all of those other things would be improvements to real property and therefore the owners responsibility, and that jive about "decorate" would be met with "pound sand" over here
Im sure by now you purchased nice drill/impact driver set... Graham they also work taking apart a PC chassis or racking equipment :) Love your videos!
On the minute 12:18 on this video, there were a fire and spark on the board, you did plug the 12v and 5v supply with a very high current and power, power supply with out the other plug for shut down sensing, so you injected a 5V in to a 3v shorted regulator which burnt the ic ship right away, I think this pcb could be fixed, thank you I like the program and I watch you all the time.
thank you!
can't believe i fell for this type of bullshit (wherever i first saw it). data lines are completely fine at 5V, i used it unmodified for years and never had problems with 3.3V chips. few days ago trying to rewrite laptop BIOS i kept getting verification errors, no matter what. already thought the chip is faulty, until i remembered i did this mod (when trying to recover burned SSD BIOS chip). reading of the bad SSD BIOS (besides completely busted block that was full of garbage) was giving me same type of byte mismatches accross multiple dumps that i've now seen on laptop BIOS. don't mod it!! it is fine as long as VCC is 3.3V
how about ch341b chip?
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
Hi, would you give me the list of usable capacitor to laptop repair ?
Curious if your NIC MAC address was blanked out when you did that and if it broke windows activation.
Don't do the job if you cant handle dusk..
Graham I'm glad you did this i just purchased a 2011 27-inch IMAC about a week ago I'm not having any trouble but this is good to know just in case, That is why i like watching your channel i have learned a lot watching you and i Still say you would be a great professor at a tech college.
That's a dang gnarly looking neck beard. You clean drains with that thing?
Why not leave the cable in and solder a new usb end on?
How do I get boardview files
Very well explained, it'll try not to blow up my computer while injecting it thanks to your video
I think you would get a better result if you follow Mr. Solderfix and tack the first end using just a small amount of solder on the iron, then solder the other end properly, then finish the first end.
thank you very intersting on how it all works thanks again
More like, at the limit of your skills lol
Very helpful!
If the Apple Store refuse to fix my computer I’m going to try this thank you so much!
Where can I get schematics for mac books and windows machines ?
i knew that slime vr trackers would be easy to make but i didnt think its really that simple. compared to many of my other projects this feels plug and play
I've used a few YT vids for Macbook repairs but Paul Daniels and Louis Rossmann have been my go to more often than not. I avoid anything Apple nowadays as parts are often difficult to get unless you buy a donor board and repairability has got worse and worse over a 20 year period. I love working on the old imacs though, they're great to fault find and repair once you get into them.
34:30 it aint 200mOhm its 200ohm but anyways it's well within a spec
can I do this linux mint?
Can you put the link for bought the HDMI test ? Thanks
Thank you for sharing this kind of things
so triggered by your lack of si prefix understanding. nooooo not milliohms... 68kOhms-67.5kOhms != milliohms!!! Not only that, 67.5kohm, is within the 1% spec listed 68k *.01=> +/- 680ohms, or 67320-68680ohms. (before you even consider accuracy of your meter... )
yea I was looking at the decimal point and thinking in fractions 😅
Hey, I enjoy every bit of your videos. Appreciates the generous expressions. Will this approach work with Apple Silicon macs ? Any tryout so far ?
Just to let you know, iron heat applied to a single solder join of any MLCC will or can cause undetected cracks inside the ceramic capacitor and lead to short circuit after a while operating because of DC voltage on it forcing ionic movement along the crack until low ohmig bridge happens!
Inrush or actual current is too high and shutting off the genuine charger. Also somewhat supported by the genuine flashing the green light, then shutting off. This also blew a fuse and fuses don't just fail, so something is going on. (obviously)
- Measuring high resistance to ground on PPDCIN_G3H just after unplugging the DC-in connector is expected as the power rail is still charged. - The zener diode at D7010 is part of the bias circuit for the transistor, as it is a P-channel MOSFET it needs a negative Vgs to turn on, so when the voltage is below 6.8V the zener doesn't pass any current so Vgs stays at 0V. But when the voltage is above 6.8V (i.e., the power brick got out of "sleep"), the zener diode starts passing current and the voltage is effectively clamped to 6.8V as it is dropped through R7010, and therefore the voltage on the gate of the MOSFET is lower than the source (relative to ground, so negative Vgs) so the MOSFET can turn on. - 1-Wire circuit is unrelated to the problem at hand, even with a blown 1-Wire circuit the Apple power brick would still deliver 14V-20V, but of course there would be no green light. Also since the non-genuine power brick has green light and charges the battery, the 1-Wire circuit is most likely working fine. - Working only with non-genuine AC power brick is also typical of a DC-in MOSFET problem (as @cadan8258 also pointed out in the comments). It can be a leaky MOSFET (most common), but also something wrong with the gate drive, like the resistors or even the charger IC. - The DC-in MOSFET issue might also explain why the fuse blew, the DC-in MOSFETs also act as an inrush current limiter and a reverse discharge protection, so something wrong there might overstress the fuse. - As a side note, the 820-4924 board won't turn on from a non-genuine Apple Magsafe2 power brick (or rather cable, since it's the 1-Wire IC in the tip that causes this specific issue) if the battery is not plugged in or dead. There are some random info about the Magsafe "sleep" behaviour on LogiWiki, page is titled "Magsafe Sleep Mode".
Your accent is distinctively more pleasant in this video. Thanks for sharing.
maybe there is an issue within the geniune charger ?!!!!!
Nice video Graham. What microscope do you use? Thank you very much!
SYS_ONEWIRE et and ADAPTER SENSE must be ok too, to obtain the good voltage. The zener diode is like a regulator, when you apply more than it's voltage, the diode become conducting, to obtain 6.8v on DCIN_ISOL_GATE.
You said that the genuine charger looks for that 68K ohms, did you check the connection where the charger plugs in to see if the charger is seeing 68K ohms. It could be a dodgy conector on the laptop, or trace to the connector, maybe even a dry joint
Thank you.
new battery old one is pooched ive had the sAME PROBLEM ON OLD MACS IF YOU HOLD THE POWER ON while plugging in mag safe it will boot
Thank you for sharing ! Very interesting
Inrush current too high when the genuine charger powers up, and it probably has an internal protection circuit that shut it down, while the "fake" usb charger have a higher current rating (or is more tolerant to overcurrent) and is not affected. That would also explain the blown fuse. Would be usefull to have a current probe hooked to a scope to check that.
Holy cow, what an excellent video. Thank you for your attention to detail, I learned an absolute ton. Subbed.
I wonder if in future it’s worth checking the voltage that at the pin and compare it to what it should be. May be able to change the value of the resistor to create the desired voltage. I think it’s supposed to be 1.8v or something, can’t remember.
What about if it charges when it is powered down, but wont charge properly when booted up? The Magsafe just shows a flickering green light and it doesnt appear to charge.....? :-) I've got one of these as well, one of the 2.9Ghz I5 Dual Core ones.....
Too late now, but a suggestion would have been to measure the overall current (when the fuse disappeared during resistor replacement, ho, ho) and compare that with another MacBook, if you have one. I know nothing about MacBooks or anything else really but the SSD comment piqued my interest. Pure guesswork on my part but perhaps the original charger may not have enough wattage for any extras (Apple chargers seem to very finicky in this regard).
Issue is likely Q7180. Well known for leakage from a defective in rush limiter. It interferes with the charger load detection. Try replacing this chip. Had this issue happen to me a few times now.
Technicians use chipmunks to test laptops?
Contact Louis Rossman in New York USA. I know of no-one else who may know more than he will. Good Luck.
Louis moved out of NYC 2 years ago. He is in Austin TX now.
Sukriya sir 100 persent working ❤❤❤❤😊