Пікірлер

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  @JafarAli-nq9ky2 күн бұрын

  Beauty, but you should try to make all the parts with steel meterials only

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  @AndysMachinesКүн бұрын

  It would actually be easier to use (mild) steel, but much heavier and also it would rust/tarnish and not have the right appearance. I've used aluminium for most parts and stainless steel for some functional parts that need to be stronger. If I were to build a T-600 I would build it all from steel and blacken it. (Maybe one day)

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  @JafarAli-nq9kyКүн бұрын

  @@AndysMachines Hmm ok

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  @JafarAli-nq9kyКүн бұрын

  @@AndysMachines I salute, for your talent.

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  @tonybayley25592 күн бұрын

  That was a very interesting test, just what i was looking for so i learnt a lot going forward. Thanks 👍🏼

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  @ThisDesignedThat3 күн бұрын

  sounds MUCH better, great job

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  @tradingisthinking4 күн бұрын

  gear skiving is more interesting , keep going on that bro

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  @AndysMachinesКүн бұрын

  It is! The problem is it needs a specific cutter for each number of teeth, and the geometry is much more complicated. A shaping cutter (which looks very similar) will cut any number of teeth, like a hob.

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  @redgum13404 күн бұрын

  This is a great video and I'm glad I found it. I just bought a ZAY 7045FG and looks very much like this machine apart from the switch box in front. I have an issue that the spindle/milling tool vibrate and move around quite a bit when in use. Nice and smooth just spinning round without any load on it but vibrates when in use. Even a small 4mm end mill will vibrate on soft mild steel. It's horrible, never seen anything like it. If I go to a 12mm end mill tool, the whole machine vibrate around. The Head, the Table, everything. Does yours do that as well? I'd love a few suggestions. HELP!

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  @AndysMachines4 күн бұрын

  Sounds like the spindle bearings need adjustment? If you remove the spindle (it will drop out of the bottom if you remove the quill feed shaft) there should be a nut at the top to preload the bearings. Drain the oil first and tilt the head on its side.

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  @redgum13404 күн бұрын

  @@AndysMachines Many thanks for replying. The Quill feed shaft? Is that the large rotating handle on the RHS? Your saying to remove that assembly and the spindle will drop out? Sorry but I've never done anything like this and it's my 1st Milling machine and I'm an old bloke. LOL

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  @redgum13403 күн бұрын

  @@AndysMachines I'm just thinking, if the spindle was loose, wouldn't it move if I tried to move it, by hand, without having the machine in operation? I've done that and I am not able to feel or see any movement at all and I'm using all the strength I have. No movement either laterally or vertically. I am not a serious engineer but I am mystified. Overall, I tend to agree with you regarding the spindle bearings not having the correct tension but is there anything else you can think of that might be causing my issue? Anything to do with the quill perhaps?

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  @AndysMachinesКүн бұрын

  Have you tried putting a dial indicator on it? Attach it to the table and put the plunger/stylus on a tool in the spindle. Pushing against the quill/toolholder you should be able to deflect it a small amount but it should spring back to where it was. Try also pushing on the table instead. If it's not the spindle bearings it might be the table gib strips. Note that there will be some backlash in the screws so try locking the X axis and see if you can move the table lengthwise, then try with the Y (only) locked pushing front to back. To get the spindle out (from memory) you need to remove the clockspring on the left hand side, then I think if you remove the fine feed wheel/housing and unscrew the clutch handwheel in the centre of the 3 quill levers, then the whole shaft will slide out allowing the spindle/quill to drop out of the bottom. LOCK the quill first! So that it doesn't fall. To actually remove it you will probably have to tilt the head on it's side, you may want to drain the oil first (though in fact I think it shouldn't run out through the spindle if the seals are good).

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  @GogebicYooper5 күн бұрын

  Remarkable work and great editing. Truly a pleasure to watch. I am curious about the ratio of (1) the time spent planning to (2) the time spent in set up to (3) the time spent cutting.

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  @AndysMachines3 күн бұрын

  Thanks! Time spent cutting (per gear) is probably the least. Setting up is really just like tramming a vice, though I may have to do both the hobbing attachment and the mill head. Planning and preparing the blanks etc. can vary wildly though often it's just some simple arithmetic in my head and turning a piece of bar on the lathe.

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  @MrPTHANGARAJ5 күн бұрын

  Simple and useful video. First time I understood the left handed and right handed helical gear. Thanks a lot sir.,

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  @willlajeunesse26838 күн бұрын

  impresive!!! One of the best builds ever!

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  @shadowr2d29 күн бұрын

  Watching this video 🎥🍿🥤. As I’m drinking 🍺 my favorite drink 🥤. This is very relaxing 😌. My blood 🩸 pressure is dropping. Just like the metal shavings. Falling of this work of art 🖼️.

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  @shadowr2d29 күн бұрын

  Sit 🛋️ back, & relax 🎉. As I watch a master craftsman at his work ⚒️⚙️🧰. You sir have a new subscriber 🎉. Keep up the great 👍 work. I wish you could build. Smaller version of this. To sale to your fans out here. Thank you for demonstrating your great skill.

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  @Indarknessyeshallknowthem10 күн бұрын

  How does one acquire one of these?

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  @harkbelial11 күн бұрын

  Imperial A.K.A. stupid version.

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  @guzmansantosaronibarrrios715911 күн бұрын

  El problema era la barra de la chaveta , para seguridad se pudo asegurar ahi con 2 pernos , yo pienso k igua se movera en lo posterior

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  @harkbelial11 күн бұрын

  Fascinating, I will never use this in my life because I'm not a machinist.

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  @RakeshShah-cx7ep13 күн бұрын

  Thanks for video learning

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  @jayantagoswami12814 күн бұрын

  28.16÷22=1.28,how we know that its might be imperial or diameteral pitch cutter. and we know to identify to others.

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  @AndysMachines13 күн бұрын

  That's probably an imperial 20 DP gear which would be 1.27mod. The closest standard metric sizes would be 1.25 or 1.5 mod.

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  @daniellang611214 күн бұрын

  Nice video,with a little humor thrown in! Next fo a porn analysis!

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  @brightenvirotech658414 күн бұрын

  helpfull. thanks.

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  @PoloniumAngie15 күн бұрын

  bfb

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  @Bigguns76115 күн бұрын

  those eyes turning it's amazing

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  @lukeandliz16 күн бұрын

  Sooo....this still has nothing to do with hobbits from Lord of the Rings?

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  @nordle420817 күн бұрын

  Hey Andy, thanks for the great content and sharing your designs! I am interested in building one of your controllers for myself, although I have a question before I start. I own a dividing head with 1.8deg motor and 50:1 reduction already and would like to use that. (=10.000 steps/rev) That means I would need a 2.500 CPR Encoder, is this correct and how can I calculate the maximum rpm for my setup so it doesn't exceed the 80kHz limit?

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  @AndysMachines15 күн бұрын

  I get this question a lot and it does seem like a quick and easy solution to put a stepper motor on a dividing head/rotary table, but due to the high gear reduction it's usually not a good idea unless you are cutting gears with very large numbers of teeth (like hundreds). To avoid swamping the arduino you'd have to run the mill spindle no faster than 480rpm (60x80Khz/2500x4). But don't forget that also the stepper is going to have to turn 50x faster than the gear blank which is likely to be the limiting factor especially for gears with less than around 30 teeth, most stepper motors have very little torque over 1000rpm. For something like a 10 tooth gear you'd probably have to run the milling machine at less than 100rpm and feed extremely slowly.

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  @nordle420815 күн бұрын

  @@AndysMachines Thanks a lot, for your reply! I see this is not Ideal, but as I am planning of making just one offs I may give it a try anyways and just cut very slowly.

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  @user-dp2ru6vh2w17 күн бұрын

  ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤That is the right Man with the right thoughts and experiences ... Excellent

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  @sidewind13125818 күн бұрын

  I can see you are working with DRO and 0.00x mm, I have an old (1962-3?) Pedersen VPU1 milling machine, it is "only" accurate to 0.01 mm, is it still feasibly to use the slitting saw in my case, or should I stick to use module cutters ?

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  @AndysMachines17 күн бұрын

  Yes, 0.01mm is plenty accurate enough for anything but the tiniest gears (that's less than half a thou for non-metric types). Whether you choose to use a gear cutter or a slitting saw really depends on what works best for your application.

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  @sidewind13125818 күн бұрын

  Bloody hell, you had me at 1:10 And here I thought that TubalCain (that was a schoolteacher) made it easy to understand, you have him beaten hands down

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  @Bigguns76118 күн бұрын

  Insanely cool ! great job !

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  @escuadron510818 күн бұрын

  Ahora toca una programación

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  @wxsb-xp2tv19 күн бұрын

  low esr capacitor

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  @astaschak19 күн бұрын

  A gear that big probably could have been done with the ball mill vertically, the math and method though I'll have to save this video for. I got a little divider for my old 1950s jig borer/small mill. Doesn't help me right now as the only gear I got that needs replaced is a helical pinion gear for my tractors steering and the $25 Chinese amazon replacement definitely beats an entire afternoon cranking handles lol. I could always just run a personal project on works 5 axis cnc mill too if push came to shove.

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  @user-fz6km4qu7i20 күн бұрын

  You have got to be the most talented versatile person on the Internet. I enjoy watching your videos. How did you learn all these different disciplines? Computers, electrical engineering, programming, machining, mathematics and so on?

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  @AndysMachines18 күн бұрын

  Thanks, but I'm really no expert at all of those things! I've learnt just enough from each to be able to do the things I want to do, mostly self taught apart from a couple of college courses. It used to be called 'a Jack of all trades' but I believe the modern term is 'agile'. Whilst a little knowledge can sometimes be a dangerous thing, I often see projects built by people with far better (say) computing/mathematical skills than me, but then the whole thing is let down because they've used some crappy 3D printed part, whereas if they could just do a little welding or machining, even at a very basic level, it would have been much better.

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  @erewhonmuesli20 күн бұрын

  I actually did an update like this recently on an old denford novamill, with Chinese fanuc imitation controller, so it's fascinating to see someone else's approach to this.

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  @190055joe21 күн бұрын

  One danger with them is when using one hand to hold a branch and it slipping towards the hand .

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  @gearhead130221 күн бұрын

  😂 the sad welder

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  @richb41921 күн бұрын

  Hi Andy, I have my mill apart (very similar to yours), it was leaking a lot, mostly when I changed the oil. when I took it apart the I noticed that the casting in the quill bore is very porous. my question is did the seal replacement stop your leak? I'm thinking mine was leaking through the casting more than the seals. Rich

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  @AndysMachines20 күн бұрын

  It did stop it completely for a while, but now it seems to have come back. I used to have 2 or three drips of oil on the table every morning, now I get maybe 1 per week.

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  @richb41920 күн бұрын

  @@AndysMachines Andy, I noticed that the seals seem to be drying out (marks on the drive gear) after sitting for a while then when you turn it on, I think it tears it a bit. I thought I would put some Teflon grease between them to keep them lubed. Rich

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  @Berga1111123 күн бұрын

  Hi Andy A great video series! I made my attachment very close to yours, but my sync is off by ~0,4% (40,5 mm gear blank it will re-cut after 1 rotation 0,5 mm next to the previous path and as a result slowly but steady round off the teeth) Any idea what it could be? I am using optical rotary encoder (CN) attached via timing belt to the main mill spindle. Would/could a pull up resistor help?

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  @AndysMachines21 күн бұрын

  Does it stay in sync when not actually cutting, just rotating freely? If it only goes out of sync when cutting it's probably due to the gear hob not being tilted to the correct angle and having a tendency to drive the blank like a wormwheel. If it loses sync all the time consistently check that you have all the ratios correct. If it seems more random that could be an electrical problem/noise. Some encoders do need pullups on the A/B outputs, but if so I'd expect it not to work at all without them.

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  @Berga1111114 күн бұрын

  Thanks for your comment - indeed 2.2 kOhm resistors seem to do the trick! More testing needed, but at least the results appear to be a gear already! I use a cheap optical rotary encoder from CN, but it works perfect!

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  @Indarknessyeshallknowthem23 күн бұрын

  Originally these were remote control plane parts used

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  @AndysMachines21 күн бұрын

  That's correct. Other parts of the skull were also from a Tamiya RC car and other model kits.

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  @lloyddouglass145024 күн бұрын

  is there a direct replacement for the stepper controller you used ? i can't find one like yours for sale. obsolete ? i do not know much about them, but i want to build your hobber !! the one you built is amazing. thank you !!!

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  @AndysMachines23 күн бұрын

  I had to go back and look at the video to see which driver I used! This exact driver is no longer made, the nearest replacement would be this: motioncontrolproducts.com/dm432c-stepper-drive.html However any step/direction controller that has a current rating suitable for the motor you are using will work and there are many cheaper options available eg. if you search for 'DM542' on Amazon this is a good all round drive, you'll see the same type offered for wildly varying prices (like 6x). Avoid the dirt cheap ones but don't pay over the odds, here is a reasonably priced one: amzn.to/3WdK0OH

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  @SjwNz0825 күн бұрын

  I need to make 2 custom gears for my mowers gearbox and really would like to try this method but I can not get my brain to work with the angles needed on the rotary table and the dials are in Degs,mins,sec. i have divider plates which I have setup for the tooth count I need but still not sure how I would do the offset angles needed. I may have to try some cutters from china but I will be cutting 4140 so I guess I will see it they last.

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  @AndysMachines23 күн бұрын

  Dividing plates with arms are useful for indexing each tooth, but you'll probably want to use the angle readout directly on the dividing head for the starting angle for each cut, then reposition the arms so you can index around to cut each tooth.

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  @martynjames596325 күн бұрын

  Wonderful !!!

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  @koutros10026 күн бұрын

  Well done on a great video Well presented and easy to follow and also a free gift. Thank you sir and God bless you.

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  @velosapien26 күн бұрын

  you forgot to mention Fibonacci

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  @SSvlogs-UK27 күн бұрын

  What's that front hole in the bar is for?

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  @AndysMachines24 күн бұрын

  Most saw bars have a hole here, I think the intended use is for hanging up the bar on a nail to store it. You can store it this way with the chain still attached and it doesn't get tangled. (I actually hang this whole tiny saw on a nail this way). On bigger bars you can also use this hole to attach things such as sawmill/planking attachments. In the past I've also drilled extra holes at the other end of the bar as well to fit a sawmill attachment. The bar is hardened steel and you can't drill it with a regular drill bit, you have to use carbide.

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  @gyrogearloose134529 күн бұрын

  Top quality vid. Thanks Andy!

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  @Roelasia29 күн бұрын

  nice work just annoying music.

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  @RustyInventions-wz6ir29 күн бұрын

  Very interesting. Thanks

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  @tolikcheАй бұрын

  Great project! Did you measured the actual peak current through the transistor? In theory, with low ESR caps it can reach hundreds of amps (assuming spark has zero resistance ), but your system is doing well with single 30A(120A peak) transistor.

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  @AndysMachines29 күн бұрын

  Unfortunately I don't have an accurate way to measure the very short high current pulses, but yes I imagine it's in the many tens or even a hundred or so amps.

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  @CherylColtharpАй бұрын

  I know everyone can build the attachment anyway one would want BUT at 80 years of age , is there anyway to get hold of your prints that you made yours from?

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  @AndysMachinesАй бұрын

  I didn't actually make any prints for this, I just built it mostly with what materials I had to hand as that was quicker. The only parameter that was important for me was to make the centre height match a tailstock I already had.

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  @MArco09380Ай бұрын

  Where could I find the Drawings for the electoral system?

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  @AndysMachinesАй бұрын

  The circuit diagram and explanation is in part 2 of the video. I used quite a basic circuit, there are more sophisticated ways to do it.

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  @AC-97..Ай бұрын

  You need only a programmer, a chip, and energy to make a fully functional terminator wow 👌 👏 😍.