Welcome to “Minute Masters" where I empower You to repair your OBS Ford!
MM brings to you OBS truck DIYs and other videos, that get right to the point and don't take all day to watch! So browse through my videos and enjoy! Also if you are really feeling addicted to my channel, hit the subscribe button!
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The truck used in all the video is a 1995 Ford F150 XL with the following equipment:
2wd, 8 foot bed, and 5.0.
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My videos apply to the following models and years of Ford trucks:
- F150, F250, F350, & Bronco
- 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996
- engines 5.0/302 and 5.8/351
Many of my videos can apply to 80-89 years as well.
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So if you cut the hatch out,how do you make it big enough so it doesn't just fall back through the hole you just cut that I'd the same size hmmmm
My God. I used to try to slide a brickup to the gas pedal to keep it depressed. Works great until you start heading down hill. Lol
Hahahaha
Did you disconnect the original Ignition control module ? The one located on the passenger side fender
I didn’t.
The vac line you disconnected on the box while insulating, where does that line go to on the other end? What is its purpose? Mine is disconnected on my 95 F150. Thanks for any help.
A lift kit that reduces clearance - genius 😖
Still higher than the diff and the front I-beams. So it’s not a negative.
I have a tip for caliper line bolts I learned a long time ago and want to pass it on in case someone doesn't know. Tighten the banjo bolt down until the new copper washers are snug and then smack it with a hammer(not too hard!) It seats the copper rings and won't ever leak.
That’s a cool tip and I’ve never heard it before! Thanks man!🤙
they work well, its worth changing the pins every brake job though
The new pads came with the pins. So I think that may be standard at least with Wagner pads.
My 93 ford ranger has the same sistem
Would this cause clunking only backing up while turning or only sometimes while braking, the passenger tire is also wearing on the outside even after doing an alignment. I’ve been trying to figure it out for months looked up underneath and haven’t really seen anything tried balljoint/wheel bearing assessment on jack stands and there’s really no play that I can feel in it. It’s a 2wd 95 f350
These can definitely cause weird clunks and so can the radius arm bushings if they are worn. I would also make sure other wearable joints are good to go i.e. tie rod ends. I would also make sure the spring is tight as well.
I've thought of adding the bronco 38 to the rear of mine but keeping the front also. Would be nice for trips
It’s a good mod. You will need a place for your spare tire though.
@@TheMinuteMasters good to know
After the plenum comes off, whats the valve towards the back left side with the yellow and pinkish red color?
Without looking at my engine, sounds like you are referring to the thermactor valve. It’s an emissions thing.
Great videos but torque specs please and include if there's any procedure for torquing, such as having the full weight of the truck in order to torque
Thanks man! I can’t quite remember the torque spec but I think it was over 100 ft lbs. I used a Haynes manual to source all of my torque specs. I always torque it with the vehicle off the ground and then retorque it with the vehicle on the ground later just to be sure .
My favorite type of TR
Pretty cool idea I’m gonna go see if they have one that fits my 86
I think he does.
Any tips to decide whether the issue is the torque converter vs trans? With?without overdrive on. Typically between 30-50, truck gets a pretty bad shudder situation. Trans shifts good under load, like doing a "pulll" getting onto highway. Downshifts. Jusy seems like it only does it with low rpm part throttle situations. 95 302, 240k miles, ive replaced plugs, distributor, wires, coil, cleaned intake manifold-(pvc valve), and throttle position sensor. Which corrected all engine codes (gets the 111 all clear pass on scanner)
There are a series of tests you can perform to assess the TC. Typically you plug a test gauge into the test port on the driver’s side of the transmission. Then you hold the brake down and quickly and briefly hit the throttle pedal. What you are noting is where the RPMs reach. So you will need a tachometer cluster to perform this test. I found a write up online on how to do it years ago.
Very good, easy to follow video! So I decided to give this a shot on my 1995 F-150. Got a used steering wheel on ebay. Got a servo and cable from a junk yard. Decided to jumper the pressure switch instead of installing the master cylinder and TSB harness. All went well, very much like the video, but the CC doesn't work. Horn works, no ABS light, brake lights work. Just looking for leads on how to trouble shoot what my problem may be. Bad steering wheel switches, clock spring, or servo? Any way to test any of these? Thanks
Ok, I thought I had an issue but I had to make deliberate pushes on the CC buttons. Then wait for it to commence. CC in these trucks isn’t as reactive as newer vehicles. So give it a test drive and see what happens.
What’s the bolt size for the harmonic balancer at 1:32? I think it’s bigger than 3/4
I think I used a 21 or 22 mm which is probably in the 7/8ths neighborhood.
How similar is this on a C6 (78 bronco) transmission?
Good question! It’s been away since a pulled a C6 but I’m sure it’s similar. If I understand this correctly, the AOD, 40DE, and 4R70w are basically C6 transmissions with overdrive, slightly different gear ratios, and some electronics.
Just bought one. Found the plug on my 81 150, but can't find the plug on my 90 Ranger.
Nice! I’m not sure where they are in the Rangers, but you could try looking under the dash.
It’s most than likely the tv cable it’ll cause it not to kick down right or not shift on time
Would it still be the TV cable with a 4R70w? I’ve never removed the TV cable and everything seems to shift fine.
Kevin working on vehicles in the rust belt like it’s nothing while I’m over here in the south complaining about having small surface rust issues. It’s a 1993 ford f150 xlt 5.0 with that horrible aod in it currently doing a torque converter replacement on it cause it sat for 13 years
Made a new subscriber
What kind of truck ?
1995 Ford F150
What kind of truck?
1995 Ford F150
Great video!
Thanks man!🤙
If you try to tourqe down with it you will bust the bearings in it. Ive owned them fo 20 yrs now