I am a novice trying to restore classic cars - I love it. This channel is a vlog rather than a how to so I just take you through the work I am doing, showing my mistakes as well as successes. This is not a glossy channel - these are not professional videos and I am not a gifted restorer.
Just enjoy.
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Great video thanks, but shut that bloomin saxophone player up 😂
Too late sorry
Yup, Full disclosure is a bitch...but it is so nice to have honesty on The KZread...thanks Henry
Thanks Lorne
Another brill job Henry
Thank you
All’s well that ends well I suppose! Glad you’re finally leak free and can move onwards :)
Yea, I am glad I can move forward
Nice one Henry. Looking forward to the next video. Take care.
Thanks Chris
You're doing a great job Henry, minor things like this are the most frustrating thing to deal with. You shouldn't be embarassed by it, you found the problem and fixed it, thats a win my friend. All the best.
Thanks, but really I should have noticed/checked a hose not tightened enough
Well done mate
Thanks Andy, I’m glad to have it sorted
Great video, including the oh s**t moment! Haven’t watched in a while Henry, and I really like the new production technique, the timelapses are very smooth.
Thanks, that moment got my heart racing
Hello Henry part of the enjoyment of restoring a classic car is the journey it takes you on. The challenges the highs and lows all build towards the satisfaction at the end. The seats are better than they were and will make the car usable so that you can enjoy it while you either make them better or source new ones. Good video and good luck for the future....
Thanks JB. I think I will revisit them again, but when I need a break from something else
Think also some people think your aim is to make the cars concours,to me its about one man saving a classic from the scrap yard and you do that so well
You’re too kind. The seats don’t look great, however they are usable and so I’ll only get TR7 covers if I come into some money
Henry the seats are great, I've been interested in classic car most of my life and love how you never give up and keep going.Really Henry I just think youre brilliant and love your video's
Thank you
Sorry, still look bad to my eyes. I am more concerned about the structural integrity of the almost completely rusted through seat frame you showed us in the first video, fibreglass will never add any integrity to that structure especially in an impact, sorry to sound so harsh but you really are wasting your time on those, repeating myself again, please look at either sourcing some other TR7 seats or look at MX-5 items for conversion.
I don't have the same structural concern. They looked a lot worse than they are. But I'm also still unhappy with the fit.
Sewing anything without a pattern is hard. Something as complex as a seat cover would be tricky even for a professional! And you’ve managed something pretty decent, definitely better than the one size doesn’t fit all one. I’d be tempted to have a go at the second one at some point.
Yeah, I'm still not happy but I think I will have a go at the other chair when I need a break from other bits
Good try Henry, I'm afraid I wouldn't use either. Just goes to show how good the originals were even if they were thrown together. I agree that more padding will probably get the shape back, but the seats should not be skimped on. Take my hat off to you for trying and going on a course.
Thanks Chris, I'm still not happy with it but I might have a go at the other chair when I'm struggling elsewhere. It is all good learning
Do these cars not have emergency manual openers in the boot.
Great question Bobby. The Ford Dealership/garage didn’t know/mention of one and I looked in the boot before starting the work because I had seen a post about it being there on some models. But not this one. And thinking about it, there was nothing in the mechanism once I got it off the car which would have allowed that
Keep going Henry, it all makes for good content. Look at my issue with the water pump saga, it is what it is and when I did my head-manifold helicoil issue I went ahead and did them all, in hindsight I was only right as had to remove again & again. You might want to sell those new sourced o-rings to Rimmers & Robsport!! All the best for now Henry, you're doing great.
Thanks Chris, I think I've almost recovered the energy to head back out
Keep going mate you're doing great we all enjoy watching so you must carry on it helps me sort out my problems of my car
Thanks Andy, will do! I'm having a little break from the engine but will get back to it shortly
Had to remove the back box on mine to strip the paint from the rear valance only to discover both rubber bobbins are broken. Another job for the long list. 👍
I've replaced mine with these poly bobbins now: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186487695103?mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&campid=5339068501&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1. The should be stronger and not much difference in price
Henry, you're doing fine. I can't tell you the amount of times I've had to undo good work quite a few times. It's frustrating but keep on going. Take care. Chris Robinson
Thanks Chris, the KZread community has been great today offering me some moral support. It is really appreciated
Keep going Henry. A few days off and coming back always helps renew vigour. Maybe tapping out the hole to the next size up ( or even a mm size ) may be better ? As for the heater matrix leak I would be tempted to try some Barrs rad weld type stuff first. I have the same issue with the MGB and that heater box removal is a real pain. For now I've bypassed it altogether. Warmth is so overrated in classic cars anyway. Keep the content coming and never give up.
Thanks Paul, I have discussed trying radweld with my dad. It is very tempting but on the other hand it may be better and less work long term to do it now. I’ll ponder it for a while. And thanks for the encouragement. I really appreciate it
Watch all your content and some I watch over and over again,due to the ASMR and also being interested in classic cars.To be honest Henry I think your fantastic
Thank you. The KZread community is really fantastic the way you’re encouraging me today. I really appreciate it
Hi Henry, i feel your pain chap. I got to the same stage last weekend as you are now. That bottom exhaust manifold bolt in the middle was loose when I took the manifold off....no wrong! Tried tightening it up and it had knackered threads. Just got a helicoil kit, and giving it a go again tomorrow 😢 fingers crossed 🤞
Good luck. The helicoil kits are great. They really save me when I over torque
It is frustrating, but you have solved the inlet manifold leak, so things are moving forward even if it’s slow! Hope the heater matrix proves more tractable.
Thanks Red, I know I'm moving forward, just some many steps backwards at the same time. I've decided to have a break from the engine this week and work on something else to get my mojo back
@@HenrysGarage That sounds like a good idea. Such a strange hobby car restoration is, sometimes there’s as many frustrating and stressful parts as there are enjoyable ones (discovered my Spitfire’s diff seems pretty knackered today so I’m down to zero running classics and am similarly frustrated/irritated!)
Oh no. You’ve got to prioritise getting one back on the road but it means I won’t see the GT6 for a while yet
Henry, the heater matrix pipes fit into the matrix with 2 rubber seals no longer available Sealing Washer - Heater Matrix to Inlet - Outlet Pipes - DZB3255 Qty Req-2 . If they have failed it is also possible the heater matrix has also blown. They get blocked with sludge. You can fit a VW Polo matrix (see Red's garage). Having got into my TR7 on cold January morning to find the footwells full of coolant, I found a local radiator craftsman to fix mine. He replaced the matrix and happened to have the rubbers in stock, but this was years ago. Others have had new pipes soldered in. Looks like Rimmers replacement heater matrix has pipes already soldered on so you can just clip rubber hoses to them.
Thanks, when I take it out I'll refer back to this and take a look
If at first you don't succeed.....go down the pub! Then come back and get stuck in!
Too right. I think I'll tackle something else first and then come back to it
It's a bugger, but that's the "fun" of project cars. I had a fuel starvation issue with my mg and have spent nearly a year tuning, carbs off, line replacement, pump out, pick up tube out, with absolutely no improvement. Turned out that my Hardi pump needs to be orientated so the outlet is slightly higher than the inlet. I turned the pump 45 degrees, and it now works perfectly. I have never felt so accomplished while also wanting to kick myself so much. Stick in Henry, you have made so much progress, you have nothing to to be disheartened about really.
There is no doubt that when I finally get this sorted I will feel a great sense of accomplishment, although I'll also remember all the bits I could have done better. I'm just in one of those periods where if feels like 3 steps back for every 3 forward
5 in a TR7, amazing 😂 I did 3 in my TR7 drophead for about 8 Mile's and it was tight😮
We were young and it was a couple of miles only but I cannot conceive how we managed it now
Quite a fancy exhaust hanger, the small chassis Triumph ones are just rubber strips! Had one of my nearly new bonnet cones break in a similar way to that isolator cotton reel of yours, I would’ve thought the metal part would need to extend further in to the rubber for more stability but apparently not.
Yes, it is the one item on the MG which is more engineered than the Triumphs I know
I have the same car and have had a similar problem. It’s got to be the most complex bracket for a very simple purpose.
Yeah, it does seem a little over engineered
Unfortunately the quality of most of our rubber replacement parts has degraded.
I’ve bought some poly replacements for not much more than the rubber parts
I remember my brother had one of these back in the 80s I had just started in the motor trade and got involved in helping him with a few jobs on it and am sorry to say what an absolute piece of crap they were it was so unreliable and fell apart on a weekly basis in the end he scraped it wich was a shame as if you took out all the British Leyland and as you see today put in a modern running gear and suspension it would make a great retro car as not a bad looking car
Sorry to hear you had bad experiences. I loved mine in the 80s
I was going to ask for the stud extractor link same as Chris! From the looks of them I thought they’d be impossible to get out. I’d agree with some of the other comments that it looks like the o ring is straight up the wrong size. Wouldn’t be the first time the major Triumph parts suppliers are Ellington stuff that doesn’t fit :( Anyway, great that you’re pretty sure what the leak culprit is.
Yeah, I've done some measuring and purchased something else. Not sure if it is right, but I recokon I'll try it. The stud extractor was a revalation and quite brilliant. Highly recommended
@@HenrysGarage I’ll have to get one as I can’t shift the studs in the GT6 manifold and I would like to have the manifold to downpipe surface skimmed, even though the studs would be usable if I left them in place.
The wax crayon trick worked well for me removing the studs and the nuts on the exhaust. Also regarding the starter motor - it is very close to the exhaust so I strongly recommend you get a heatproof jacket for it, otherwise it will get toasted by the heat. The TR7 originally had clip-on heatshields on the exhaust down pipe but these usually fall off or get discarded. They also do not fit aftermarket stainless steel exhaust systems.
My plan was to wrap the exhaust in the heat shield webbing you can buy. That should work, shouldn't it?
That's right @narrowbeam...just clips on and it was notorious for collecting debris and corroding the terminals so you had to get underneath & twat it a bit in order to get it started so you could get home. Don't quote me but I think that shield has asbestos in it!! Mine is still on my 7, great reminder though and worth pointing out.
@@HenrysGarage it will help some, but the starter is a pain to change when car is on the road and the jacket isn’t too expensive.
Hi Henry, no gaskets on exhaust manifold to head except Fuel Injected
Really? What about these: rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RB7006TR7. I don't see anything indicating they're not required for Carb models
@@HenrysGarage they weren’t factory fitted but no harm fitting
They were not fitted in my 1977 or my 1981. Not mentioned in ROM or Parts Catalogue. Part number is for an aftermarket parts for folks who have leaks I guess. Only a few quid so worth fitting I suppose.
Hi Henry, nice job on the stud removal for the exhaust manifold. If you have a link from ebay for that adapter pls add/edit in the video description. As for the O-ring on the manifold, this is the issue I was talking about regarding it being too thick, I searched all my info and could not find the spec but I do know it should be an imperial one. There should be a stand off on this O-ring but not as big with the O-ring you look to be using. When you torque down the manifold you can possibly get an air leak on the nearest inlet port due to this stand off, if you tighten it further to rid the air leak you could distort the manifold and also crush the O-ring seal. I use the silicone grease on the two O ring pipe interface pipe also to keep in situ and make the placement easier. The correct O ring on the manifold face should stay in place naturally without any silicone grease, although it wouldn't hurt to. I know Rimmer & Robsport supply the O ring but it is not right, perhaps it is the nearest they can get! part no. TRS2024. Perhaps double up on the manifold gasket to compensate?
Thanks Chris, my dad suggested sticking the O-ring in the freezer for a short period (not long enough to become brittle) and see if that will shrink it to fit. I'm trying that. Ebay link added.
@@HenrysGarage Thanks Henry appreciate that
Am I missing something? Can’t you use a smaller o ring?
This is the standard o ring provided by the major suppliers. I figure they supply at that size for a reason
@@HenrysGarage Yes, because they cannot get the right imperial size ;)
@ChrisFEJackson I've been out measuring. Seems to me the outer diameter of the surface is 37.5mm whereas the o-rings provided are 39mm so getting a slightly smaller metric should work. The thickness of the provided o-rings are 3mm so if I purchased o-rings with inner diameter of 31.5mm and 3mm thickness I should be good. What wrong with my thinking?
@@HenrysGarage The diameter I'd say to 37.5mm is ok but you will have to reduce the thickness as well, I'd go as far and say half 1.5 - 2mm so long as the o-ring does partrude to enable sealing contact with the head. 3mm thickness is what the main issue is, in all respect to the leak. Also as a point there is no securing bolt on the RHS of the water seal (near the thermostat housing) so you are at the mercy of the integrity of o ring mating between the manifold and head, stand this off by a too thicker o ring you are either going to have a water leak and/or an air leak (suction) on the manifold port. If you see the YT link to a video I found it may explain it better.
Am I missing the basic premmis of this video----??😂 either way both brilliant cars in there own ways 😊.
I doubt you’re missing any base premise. I just thought it would be an interesting idea and one someone more professional could make really interesting. I was having a little fun with the idea
@@HenrysGarage ahh I understand now thank you 😊.
Fair enough overlook and especially looking at costing. Would I do the same between my TR7 & F-Type V8R? (lol) the costings and driving experience are a universe apart. But I get enjoyment out of both for differing reasons. When I travel in the Jag to anywhere, it's a given that I make it in good time. A recent longer trip from Plymouth to Bicester and back in the TR7 however, felt as if it were an accomplishment! I would only use my older car as a 'daily' in the summer to tootle around and yes similar to the MGB, very enjoyable. I have to adapt my driving to the cars' requirements of handling & braking in modern traffic whereas the modern Jag has so many assists it removes you from that experience of having to think ahead, for example in terms of braking, road condition and type of road, the systems are that good. Great video Henry it resonated so much with my own feelings between the cars I own and run.
I think the thing is, because I work from home and don’t need to head off to places often and because Alexia won’t travel in the older cars I can say the MG would be my daily driver. I reckon if I had to head off to an office every day I might think differently
Loved this..... it shouldn't make any sense... but it did😂
I've been thinking about it for a while. I was going to go a little further and show the MG doing 55 overtaking the BMW doing 50, but didn't really get around to it. I just think, if you're. not doing 75-100+ miles every day, the MG is more fun
@HenrysGarage just got mine back on the road after a major rebuild of the back end. Still feeling her out but seems fine except for a bit of fuel starvation going uphill. The pump doesn't stop ticking fully at idle so I am assuming never reaches full pressure. Can't find any leaks, so it's driving me potty. Does 50 easy though.. 🤔
My B loves the motorway - very happy keeping up with the traffic and completely planted and stable - maybe check your suspension out? Bloody noisy though!
Yeah, I'm pretty sure if I lowered the car it would feel alot better on the motorway, especially if I sorted the overdrive, but I would still pick the BMW if I were doing 500 miles on there
@@HenrysGarage mine is lowered front and rear with a 3/4" front anti roll bar and none on the rear. The handling is great. Overdrive definitely makes a big difference. As mine had been sitting in a garden for 20 years and I managed to pull the wire off the solenoid and had to solder it back on I was very surprised it worked!
Once the 7 is done I’m planning some work for the mg including overdrive and suspension
@@HenrysGarage I was dreading working on my overdrive after watching your videos! Very helpful though - thanks!
Hey did you figure this out? : ) Good work plugging away at it
Yes, it just comes out under pressure. It is in one of these 3 videos kzread.info/dash/bejne/hXWgl7KMkarSiMo.html, kzread.info/dash/bejne/nGV4ycOpZ5mzZto.html or kzread.info/dash/bejne/nGV4ycOpZ5mzZto.html
Oooff, that’s frustrating Henry, hope you get to the bottom of the leaks soon. Had to laugh at the shot of the containers all lined up to catch the drips though!
I know. But you should have seen how much I didn't get!. My garage could have been mistaken for the local pool.
Bad luck, I’m a Dolomite owner (1850 which is basically the same as the TR7 2.0 litre unit). The Dolomite thermostat housing has a large brass plug in the top for filling/ topping up the coolant, surprised to see yours hasn’t, sure makes life easier than having to replace the gasket every time, are you sure you have the right one on your car as it seems a bit daft not to have a removable plug at the top of the cooling system for exactly what you are doing?
Thanks, yeah I'm sure I have the right water pump housing. I think I've measured the gaskets incorrectly
Hi Henry, I just reviewed your water pump installation video and I think you have gone the wrong way when selecting the correct thickness gasket. According to the BL manual: dry fit the water pump housing and measure the gap under the cover. The instructions then say to ADD 10-20 thou to the measured gap to select the correct gasket thickness so when the cap is bolted down there is the specified INTERNAL clearance for the impeller. Listening to your commentary, you DEDUCTED the clearance from your measurement, which means the housing will never snug down tightly. This is why I think the joint is leaking. Hope this helps... Keep up the good work!
Thanks Carsten, I'm sure that is where I went wrong but I assumed I measured incorrectly. I must take a look at the video and see how I did it
Hi Henry, You measured the gap at 29 thou then DEDUCTED 20 thou and installed a 10 thou gasket, if I listened correctly. I think if you ADD 10 thou to your 29 measured gap (39 thou), the thermostat should snug down with no leaks. The BL manual does mention installing multiple gaskets to achieve the desired thickness. Hope this cures the problem 🤞.
I’ve watched it earlier and I’m pretty sure I added. I need to check if I did the same on the two cars. But I was also following the Haynes manual and I think it said you wanted 20-30 thousand. I’ll watch both again and read both manuals
Wow Henry what a tale of woe. From my experience, firstly, I use a Dow Corning silicone grease on the o-ring for the water pump connection ie pipe with 2 0-rings, this allows an 'easier' fitting with less stress and grip on the o-rings when putting into situ. Also, the OEM's o-ring for the manifold-head sealing is thinner than what I believe Rimmer & Robsport hand out as a spare, not much in it but it can cause a bit of a stand off when connecting the manifold to the head and getting the water pump pipe in correctly, then deforming it as you torque down the manifold. I don't think any slight difference in your water pump housing has caused any issue with the manifold, you just have a leaking gasket. Top man for sharing these woes, this will help people in the future. Take care buddy you will get there.
Thanks Chris; that makes me feel like I can sort this. The frustration I was feeling yesterday was immense.
Nice job Henry! You wouldn't be the first person to not tighten a bleed valve fully!
Yeah, I worry about over tightening them and then having bigger problems later
@@HenrysGarage For sure, when I stripped my TR7 back end, putting back together again the two ports on the rear brake hydraulic push cylinders, one port is at a slight angle in comparison to the other. I believe the angled one is for the brake line and straight in one is for the bleed valve. I got these two the wrong way around and it was if I couldn't tighten the bleed valve fully due to the angle and interference of the back plate. One to watch out for on the TR7 rear brakes.
Enjoyed this,do you have any interest in motorcycles Henry?
I have a license and used to ride but I was knocked off by a white van on the motorway when trying to merge at low speed. I did nothing wrong and he said he hadn’t seen me so I got rid of it no haven’t ridden since
I read it as Harry's Garage 😂 As in Harry Metcalf 😂
😭
So talented you are Henry,I adore your videos
That's very kind
kzread.infoI-SjvRgyOjU?si=rVAk8X9njpb_fTSk
Thanks Lorne. I wonder if I put the support on the wring side of the mount. I need to check
Just checked I’ve done mine correctly