Пікірлер

• 
  @PlankmillsКүн бұрын

  Yeah that first one was a bit too tight. Filming and screwing at the same time.

• 
  @mikemissildine370Күн бұрын

  #14x7/8 lap screw. That rivet will leak

• 
  @classicred10483 күн бұрын

  Might want bigger screws

• 
  @TheNordicKnight3 күн бұрын

  Nice work men!

• 
  @Lofinoesfino88883 күн бұрын

  what pitch is that?? 9/12??? what type of boots do you wear for that type of roof???

• 
  @plankroofing3 күн бұрын

  8/12 and we use mostly Merrell hiking shoes, the mid ankle high ones. They stick to metal real good!

• 
  @BRD3793 күн бұрын

  Not so tight dude

• 
  @garydutton26483 күн бұрын

  nice

• 
  @samvarios6105 күн бұрын

  Hey quick question what’s the rake trim name

• 
  @plankroofing3 күн бұрын

  @@samvarios610 we just called it standing seam rake. This is about the only company I know of that makes them this way. Royal oak metal sales in Michigan. But there are some metal suppliers who will make something like this custom.

• 
  @randallfelter94709 күн бұрын

  Nice job. Great info. Thanks!

• 
  @user-rj7qm2ej2s9 күн бұрын

  I am installing metal roof on the old 3/8 plywood. Hope the screws can hold it.

• 
  @plankroofing3 күн бұрын

  They will want to strip out easily. We’d recommend putting 2x4’s or 1x4’s purlins on top of your plywood, nailing it into the rafters. Then put an underlayment of some kind over those, And screw your metal to the 2x4’s

• 
  @elmerreynosoreynoso483413 күн бұрын

  How do I order that exact material? Thank you.

• 
  @mikesmith891413 күн бұрын

  good work

• 
  @SteelWaffen15 күн бұрын

  What do you do if your roof is 18' on either side but you can only find 12' sheets do you just overlap them

• 
  @plankroofing15 күн бұрын

  Yes you can overlap them, 6” to 12” Run a stretch of sheets along the drip edge first. And then the top pieces completing the roof up to the ridge, and cut them to the proper length obviously. Check out my video on how to run it straight with the drip edge.

• 
  @jimcotner462218 күн бұрын

  Thanks guys, It's nice to find DIY videos made as well as yours. I can't think of anything that would make it better. Thanks again.

• 
  @garljoens20 күн бұрын

  Is there a possibility of weight concern when installing over pre-existing shingles on old buildings? As in a concern of causing roof spread? Is there a way to anticipate and calculate the possibility of this?

• 
  @plankroofing20 күн бұрын

  If there is two layers of shingles or more I’d recommend taking them off. If nothing else for the weight purpose. Especially on old roofs, or manufactured homes. Also if you live anywhere where you get a significant amount of snow, you’d want to consider that as well. Because that will add a lot of weight to your roof if it’s shingles. With metal a lot of it usually slides off. Then, Check to see what all is on your roof. And go from there.

• 
  @ChuckReese-mq6gv26 күн бұрын

  Do you need a water barrier if you're doing a metal of shingles

• 
  @ChuckReese-mq6gv26 күн бұрын

  And where do I put it

• 
  @plankroofing25 күн бұрын

  Yes, get the highest quality you can find. Some people use a foil-faced reflective bubble wrap on re-roofs like this as well.

• 
  @m.carter909026 күн бұрын

  Thanks for your video :)

• 
  @plankroofing17 күн бұрын

  Your welcome!

• 
  @m.carter909026 күн бұрын

  We live in Tucson and our medium size, double wide home gets really uncomfortably hot inside. I'm researching how to do a metal roof with the underlayment of rigid insulation boards and a radiant heat barrier. I see you did not remove the shingles. I was thinking we would need to remove our good shingles first because of the added weight issue. What say you?

• 
  @plankroofing25 күн бұрын

  I would definitely recommend removing the shingles. That is best, but not a requirement in all places. And yes, use the highest quality water barrier ( underlayment first. And then I would do 2x4’s purlins every 2-4 feet making sure to nail them into the rafters. with foam board in between those. And then your radiant heat barrier. And then the metal roofing. 2x4’s on 2 ft centers is generally ok but if you put 1 1/2” foam board in between you can span further because you have a rigid foam providing a stabilizer under the metal. Other wide spanning more than 2’ is too far and you risk buckling the metal in between the purlins.

• 
  @leovargas704529 күн бұрын

  very professional. Nice work.

• 
  @stanleysears884Ай бұрын

  Do you guys do Everlast metal roofin ASL-150

• 
  @plankroofing28 күн бұрын

  Yes, we’ve done a lot of that. Probably 50-50 when we worked in Michigan

• 
  @DrnardinovАй бұрын

  it's weird that the manufacturer would recommend putting fasteners in the low spots and not on the ribs. Guaranteed to leak once the gaskets solidify.

• 
  @plankroofing17 күн бұрын

  Depends on how you do it and how you maintain it. People do it successfully either way, But you get more sheer strength and up-lift resistance screwing in the flat. Also The screws will back out more and sometimes even break off if you screw on the ribs. Also never screw into plywood or OSB, solid wood like 2x4’s or 2x6’s are best for metal roofing.

• 
  @Drnardinov13 күн бұрын

  @@plankroofing the last thing I want to do is maintain my metal roof. That's why I go with standing seam. 50 years no leaky. If you have to replace low spot gaskets every 5 years you may as well go with heat generating tar based comp. Darker the better. Let's heat this place up because I want to grow avocados in Oregon. We're paying $1.59 for an average avo here. It's an outrage. Dam cartels and I guess Biden.

• 
  @dutch4117Ай бұрын

  Just looks dirty to me…

• 
  @plankroofing27 күн бұрын

  It’s dirty because the metal wasn’t overhung far enough so the water can seep back and down the drip edge making it dirty. If they had done a 1 1/2” over hang with the metal it would be nice and clean.

• 
  @dutch411727 күн бұрын

  @@plankroofing I get it, it’s the same on my house. The metal on the main house structure has an inch and a half overhang and the drip edge stays clean. Where there are gutters attached, there is about a quarter inch overhang and when pollen sits on the roof in the spring, it leaves lines going toward the gutters. It isn’t damage though, just looks dirty until a fresh rain…

• 
  @user-zn9ot4er6tАй бұрын

  Do my 1x4 need to be a special type of wood or can I use regular 1x4 from homedepot? Thank you 🙏🏼 @plankroofing

• 
  @plankroofingАй бұрын

  They can be regular 1x4 But preferably harder pine like yellow pine or fir.

• 
  @thenoneckpeoplerepresentat8074Ай бұрын

  I caulked every single screw on mine. It’s time consuming but well worth the effort.

• 
  @plankroofing16 күн бұрын

  Yes! It can be a cheap alternative to replace your entire roof, and can extend the life of a roof, I would always use new screws though and get the bigger shanked screws. Usually those have a bigger head on them as well Like 5/16” or 3/8”. Especially if it’s only screwed into plywood Which is a common mistake people make.

• 
  @KillerKev1961Ай бұрын

  Fine workmanship.

• 
  @C_Fak942Ай бұрын

  Without counter batten all the wood under the metal gonna rot

• 
  @plankroofingАй бұрын

  kzread.infohsIxeHauXdg?si=nQ_4KdqsYXjSoZnl Check this out.

• 
  @briancarroll3541Ай бұрын

  thirty-year licensed contractor here: you should NEVER do this! the asphalt will rot at an accelerated pace under that metal, creating a constantly degenerating situation. the sleepers wont help keep the fasteners fixed to the underlayment (plywood roof deck in most cases), b/c there's no way to prevent the shrinkage that those degrading shingles will leave between surfaces, creating a loose connection and subsequent movement between the panels and the roof deck. seen this many times. stupid.

• 
  @fett_420Ай бұрын

  Not a roofer professionally, but I would take all that asphalt off to get the weight off my house alone anyway.

• 
  @briancarroll3541Ай бұрын

  @@fett_420 sure. in a snow-prone region the added dead-load could be an issue.

• 
  @plankroofingАй бұрын

  I know the best is tear off, I wasn’t in charge of the crew back then and that’s how we did a lot of roofs. But check out this video here showing a 25 year old roof done this way, and is completely fine. kzread.infohsIxeHauXdg?si=nQ_4KdqsYXjSoZnl

• 
  @ryanreeder5897Ай бұрын

  Wrong. The emphasis should be on hitting the rafters/truss angles for perlings and the torque put down on the screw regardless. Dont listen to your neighbor, dude. Go learn

• 
  @plankroofingАй бұрын

  I’m not sure what you’re saying. Doesn’t really make sense. But This roof metal was laid straight on top of OSB which is a recipe for disaster and is not recommended No Perlins either just OSB. Hence most of the screws were backing out and needed replacing. And even then it was too late for lots of them. The decking was to rotted out already.

• 
  @JonathanCarroll357918 күн бұрын

  ​@@plankroofingso osb not plywood makes since then

• 
  @plankroofing15 күн бұрын

  @@JonathanCarroll3579 I don’t think it matters. But you need something on top for extra holding strength for the screws. Either 1x4’s or 2x4’s every 2’

• 
  @JonathanCarroll357915 күн бұрын

  @@plankroofing ply has a better holding strength for screws than shid board. Was wondering because a client had me put ply for a deck roof decking instead of the purlins I was going to, guess his prior contractor used just plywood so that's what he wanted done. Customer always happy till they have to pay more later to fix what coulda been right into the first place.

• 
  @bolivianbillionaire1349Ай бұрын

  Dont screw in the gulleys, mate ..screw in ridges..

• 
  @jamesstoy8967Ай бұрын

  I was taught to put the nails or screws in the ridges. The idea is that the ridges peak see's less water than the flat spot therefore better leak protection.

• 
  @plankroofingАй бұрын

  Yes that’s a fine idea. But the first stiff breeze that comes along your roof is gone because you don’t have near the shear strength that you get from screwing in the flat. And if you screw into solid wood, (NOT Plywood or OSB) you have a good solid grip and just keep the screws checked for backing out. And replace them every 8-10 years. A little maintenance and doing it right the first time goes a long ways!!

• 
  @jamesstoy8967Ай бұрын

  @@plankroofing I never had a piece of tin to come off nor did my teacher who has been doing it for almost 60yrs. I could see what you said happening if one was to leave the screw/nail loose for whatever reason or didn't use a long enough screw/nail to bite the wood good. I've also heard of replacing the screws/nails every 8-10yrs. My grandmother house was roofed back around in the 60's. Same nails and zero leaks. Rubber even still looks/feels decent! I do have question though. Why is everyone on this band wagon of putting a water proof layer under a tin roof? I can see the reason why when nailed to plywood due to condensation and poor ventilation. But when nailed to strips of wood like the old barns and houses, why is it still needed? Those old barns and houses has done just fine for years and years without it and there many of which that still stands without that layer under the tin and no leaks.

• 
  @plankroofingАй бұрын

  @@jamesstoy8967 I’d guess it’s. Ore for the condensation that can happen under the metal. I can see how it doesn’t leak on the ribs, but I don’t like the idea of it. I’ve seen roofs that leak and that just don’t work as well doing it this way, But I know people do it successfully. But you don’t get the shear strength though That’s one of the main things I don’t like. You can hardly tighten your screws without smashing the ribs. Which I don’t like. If you check your screws every few years and replace every 8-10 years it’ll be just as good if not better. But that may just be my opinion.

• 
  @jamesstoy8967Ай бұрын

  @@plankroofing Nothing wrong with an opinion. Glad you actually talking with me, lol! Now on like 5V tin, I can see where there's not enough hold down strength in the ridges alone. The flat spots needs to be nailed or screwed too. I do like to ask, are you using 100ga tin? (Sarcasm, lol). 26ga is thin as I go and never have a ridge bend/crush. That's for debating with me!

• 
  @forgenorth144424 күн бұрын

  That’s against manufacturers guidelines and doesn’t get enough compression to seal the gasket reliably

• 
  @danielcadnum7214Ай бұрын

  Does anybody do slate roofs and repairs to them. I have an idea to restore an old bank barn to original condition. Thank you. 😊

• 
  @plankroofing17 күн бұрын

  I know there are people who do those. Not sure about repairs. But look online you should be able to find something

• 
  @dwayneg94802 ай бұрын

  Why install a new steel roof and not replace that crumbling , falling down chimney? A failure on the contractors end for not first requiring a chimney rebuild from the home owner. It doesnt matter how good the flashing job is, its going to fail..and soon. I walk away from these situations because I'm the one who looks bad in the end.

• 
  @user-ge2fb9fh2qАй бұрын

  You must only do work a handful of times in your life then, more often than not chimneys need work, that is absolutely not falling down,just needs pointed, and for all you know he bid the chimney and they declined, so its in writing it was declined and they were advised of potential future issues with the chimney and it is not covered by warranty

• 
  @samwagler66762 ай бұрын

  Stick a little metal shaving in the hole if the screw doesn’t hold

• 
  @georgeclayjr.24992 ай бұрын

  Great work!

• 
  @lfuentes40982 ай бұрын

  What state are you located in?

• 
  @plankroofing2 ай бұрын

  We are located in TN Used to be in northwest Michigan

• 
  @mahlonfisher2222 ай бұрын

  Nothing wrong with the install it just needs gutters.

• 
  @johnnyhurst95183 ай бұрын

  Pretty good but lap the top over the side

• 
  @Oldhouseguy3 ай бұрын

  What a cheap looking job. No step flashing? Cut right through the brick instead of using the brick joint? I do see it done this way but on houses that are small and cheap looking.

• 
  @ewokc19283 ай бұрын

  Very clean and professional work. Great tutorial

• 
  @danielpoirier44213 ай бұрын

  😂not true buddy, screws go on rib, so it doesn't hold ice ... wronge ...

• 
  @patriciadinh5733 ай бұрын

  I have an old metal building that I can't find the panels for. Is there a way you can put new panels over existing panels for the roof? Or do I have to replace the hole thing?

• 
  @plankroofing3 ай бұрын

  I’m not sure I understand what you’re talking about? If you have a building that has metal on it. I would try to remove the old metal before putting on new metal panels.

• 
  @patriciadinh5733 ай бұрын

  @@plankroofing I have an old metal building that the design or shape is not longer made. So I can't replace a spot on the roof because it will be two different sheet metal design. So I wanted to know if I can just somehow do a metal on metal roof or I should replace the whole metal roof with new sheet metal.

• 
  @shawn-19843 ай бұрын

  Thats the way we do it

• 
  @nickfish35453 ай бұрын

  You did everything wrong and then tried to brag about it on the internet my lord

• 
  @nickfish35453 ай бұрын

  First rule of metal roofing never listen to anyone who screws the flats, only screw the rib. But I understand there are different levels of quality for everyone and your probably thing that it’s ok or “ that’s not code” fact is it’s wrong for more reasons than one and you can try and justify it all you want as I’m sure you will but they will erode years faster and leak 100% guaranteed don’t care what you say or what you think you know. Just because you saw someone do it once doesn’t mean you know how to do it.

• 
  @plankroofing3 ай бұрын

  First question I have for you is, have you personally seen roofs with screws in the flat leak sooner than screwed on the rib? Or is it just a theory? The truth of the matter is, is that people do it successfully either way, And most US manufacturers say to screw in the flat! And you get better uplift resistance screwing in the flat! And the screws hold better because it’s tight against the wood underneath. I’m just stating the facts. But It doesn’t make sense to me to screw on the rib with this type of metal. I can understand the old style metal roofing with the tiny triangle shaped ribs that they nailed on the ribs long ago! But this is not the same technology. Never screw metal on only plywood or OSB! It will leak much sooner! Also we’ve been doing this for years.

• 
  @user-zu8zr6jh5i3 ай бұрын

  The gasket is flat the rib is round the only fucking way to get the gasket flat is to dent the rib an over compress the gasket.

• 
  @user-zu8zr6jh5i3 ай бұрын

  Never screw on ribs Its funny how wrong people are an they feel so strongly about it. If you would like me to make a video I will.

• 
  @nickfish35453 ай бұрын

  @@user-zu8zr6jh5i lol you just don’t know what you’re doing if you screw the flats you’re dead wrong

• 
  @nickfish35453 ай бұрын

  @@user-zu8zr6jh5i youre the dumbest kind of person

• 
  @Ride4Dime3 ай бұрын

  I wish I could be this “in sync” with another dude. Shit get me hard I stg.. wait…

• 
  @Straight-Outta-Roanoke-AL3 ай бұрын

  Looks very good!

• 
  @regg4423 ай бұрын

  Using a 2x4 treated instead of a 1x4 non treated would be a better choice?

• 
  @plankroofing3 ай бұрын

  I’m sure it would last longer. Also a good underlayment would be great too.

• 
  @Defamed.3 ай бұрын

  😅And this is why my prices are so high. Keep up the mediocre work.

• 
  @MrBloodlust39963 күн бұрын

  No one gives a shit buddy

• 
  @Coonass3 ай бұрын

  Directions unclear. My Penis is caught in the toaster now and i can't get it out.

• 
  @Psychotic0reo3 ай бұрын

  What brand are those snips my dude

• 
  @plankroofing3 ай бұрын

  Malco, you can find them on Amazon, here are links to both: Left off-set snips: amzn.to/3uJD5kF Right off-set snips: amzn.to/3NcSpMS