This is fantastic. I''ve been seeing these when coming into your shop, and it's great to see them up and running. Yes, please upload videos of your side-by-side experiments and their results. That sounds both fascinating and helpful.
@Homebrew582 күн бұрын
Will that lid fit on a standard corny keg and if so can you buy them separately?
@BobbyFromNJКүн бұрын
No. The MEGAMOUTH keg hole and matching lid is massive compared to a standard corny keg. The biggest port we can get on a standard lid is a 1" OD tube with the 1/1.5" TC flange on it.
@JollyLizardBrewing2 күн бұрын
Would you share your PPT?
@JollyLizardBrewing2 күн бұрын
In order for me to share at my club meeting
@seanmonaghan43563 күн бұрын
Seems like you've gone full keg fermentation now. I recall that you used to use the Fermonsters, but can see how the keg would make for easier transfers and dry hopping.
@BobbyFromNJ3 күн бұрын
I never seem to go full anything. As an equipment vendor with a makeshift machine shop/welder, it seems like I ferment or brew in something different almost every time. I use the Torpedo shown in the video for any 5 gallon batch that will be dry hopped. I'm still using fermonsters for a lot of beers, especially the split batches using the 3G fermonsters since two fit in the same fermentation fridge.
@redbud.home.brewing4 күн бұрын
That’s how I do it too in my 2 converted kegmenters 💪
@seanmonaghan43569 күн бұрын
Thank you, Bobbeh. We love you!
@wayasilver11 күн бұрын
I try to solder sterling onto stainless steel but its weak .. what i am doing wrong?? 😓 i did it with easy silver solder that i use for jewelry
@stephanpiotrowski152425 күн бұрын
Simple and slick. I've just started wondering about this as I eliminate opportunities for O2 ingress into my fermented beer. One major gap is how to add clarifying agent at packaging. This should do the trick! In principle you could rig a fermenter to accept ALDC from this syringe to reduce hop creep in heavily dry hopped beers if temperature control is not an option.
@dcm22029 күн бұрын
I have been looking for an easy off-the-shelf solution to do this exact thing. My DIY attempts have been unsuccessful. Thanks for providing it, I'm on my way to purchase now!
@marklpaulick29 күн бұрын
Great method. Excellent presentation of the important details. I currently use a water bottle and carb cap for a similar procedure but I’ll definately add one of these to my next order from you since you are basicallly giving them away at cost.
@raiderrob672Ай бұрын
Need to come up with something that injects fruit purees/infusions into sanki kegs.
@cfrazier1977Ай бұрын
I use the same method and it works great.
@marklpaulickАй бұрын
Sounds like a great plan! No chill? Ferment in 1 gal kegs?
@BobbyFromNJАй бұрын
Definitely plan to chill with tiny immersion chillers and will ferment in 2.1 gallon oxebar kegs.
@kiddobrewingАй бұрын
Please tell me you're going to have the clip on thermowell on the site for sale soon!! 🙏
@cfrazier1977Ай бұрын
Will you have a red pill and blue pill model?
@SudzMakerАй бұрын
Wondering what vessels you are using to brew with? I would like to have a smaller brew for testing before I brew a new 10g batch.
@BobbyFromNJАй бұрын
They are 10 liter coffee percolators. I was drawn to the double wall construction for insulation purposes since I don't plan to run recirculation. The quality is pretty poor on these though. Half way through a test boil, the sightglass started dripping so I have to take them all out and plug the holes. I also planned to go very low tech using the built in temp control knob but it wouldn't have yielded useful comparisons with temp variations. The baskets are hop baskets that I cut shorter..
@tonesmith909Ай бұрын
Let me tell you why you’re here… What is “real?”.. Great to see a new vid from Bobbbo
@WC1376C22Ай бұрын
He's alive!
@stevenowens4511Ай бұрын
Good video. For anyone who's not familiar with the process of bottling beer from a carbonated keg, you chill the bottles and the hose line, etc, to reduce the temperature change when the beer comes in contact. Lower temperatures help CO2 dissolve in beer, so keeping the temperature low during this process keeps more of the CO2 dissolved in the beer. Also, as a side note, making sure that the bottle headspace is full of CO2 helps prevent oxidation and etcetera, but does not have a significant impact on the carbonation of the beer. I once asked a homebrewer friend who's a Chem PhD about both of these topics. The answer was long and complicated and it was outside their area of chemical expertise, and I'm sure my summary (as well as my understanding) is going to be an oversimplification, but: The short version is that while carbonating, i.e. dissolving CO2 into beer, is a chemically driven process (CO2 interacts with water to become carbonic acid), foaming is, they believe, mostly kinetically driven. The lion's share of the kinetic energy comes from the change in pressure between the pressurized keg and the bottle, but the temperature difference does add some kinetic energy. Foaming is caused mostly by molecular-level "brownian" motion that causes the CO2 molecules to move around and bump into each other and accumulate, or (and it's mostly this they think)) to bump into and accumulate around "nucleation sites", which are usually near-microscopic rough spots on the interior surface of the bottle. Increased temperature adds to that brownian motion, so it adds to the moving around and bumping and accumulating. When CO2 molecules accumulate enough, they also accumulate enough energy (collectively) to overcome the energy barriers and come out of solution and become CO2 bubbles. The energy barriers are mostly related to surface temperature but also to the chemical reaction that causes CO2 dissolved in water to become carbonic acid.
@stewart97232 ай бұрын
That was not silver solder?
@BobbyFromNJ2 ай бұрын
Sure it is. "The only difference between soldering and brazing is the temperature at which each process takes place. Soldering takes place at a temperature below 840°F (450°C), and brazing occurs at a temperature above 840°F (450°C)." This process was at about 450F so silver "soldering".
@ArcherRon2 ай бұрын
Lol @ the smoke is still in there
@samielhellhound2 ай бұрын
Hell yeah. Glad to see you putting out some content.
@joeellis46812 ай бұрын
Quick question - when fermenting with this setup, can you just run a tube from the gas in connector as your blow off tube - and just put the other end in a bucket of Star-San?
@BobbyFromNJ2 ай бұрын
Yes, that's exactly how I do it but you should be warned that if your krausen gets out of control, it's possible to clog the poppet valves and overpressurize the fermenter. Leave enough head space and keep temps under control.
@joeellis46812 ай бұрын
@@BobbyFromNJ Thanks! And, I’m brewing a Hef! 😮
@joeellis46812 ай бұрын
Very helpful!! Thank you!
@samielhellhound2 ай бұрын
looks awesome
@GentleGiantFan2 ай бұрын
Definitely keep this going Bobby. I'd love to see more YT content from you.
@BobbyFromNJ2 ай бұрын
That's the plan. I'm in the middle of building the controller for all four units and will update soon.
@SudzMaker2 ай бұрын
Glad to see you are back at it.
@jonsobel83653 ай бұрын
Such a great idea for different experiments using different yeasts, hops, etc. The possibilities are endless.
@djuth3 ай бұрын
I'm definitely interested in this. Just started home brewing, all grain in 1+ gallon batches. I'd like to scale up... to about 2 gallons max! That's all I need - to learn and drink. Currently using a 10 quart stock pot I have and the stove, which works but I'd like to streamline and better control my process.
@cubalz38063 ай бұрын
I am looking forward to hearing about your small batch experiments
@CascadesHomebrew3 ай бұрын
I look forward to seeing these in action and also to the small batch experiments. 🍻
@DimpieDeBruyn3 ай бұрын
Hello to you also, hint hint 😉
@samielhellhound3 ай бұрын
Looks awesome. I make small batches that I pressure can for starters. Something like this would be perfect for that. Can't wait to see more, Cheers.
@Peanutbuttergalactic4 ай бұрын
Just what I was looking for! Do you think having the spigot version would be an issue? Also do you have the link for the gas/liquid posts you used?
@TeedyASMR5 ай бұрын
Thank you this was the exact video I was looking for!! Incredibly helpful, thank you.
@JerseyMissy8445 ай бұрын
Thanks Bobby! I needed this!! I understood when you explained it at the shop and when I got home it was like I forgot everything. Life saver!!
@maxson25506 ай бұрын
Awesome video, thank you. Can you tell me what parts and size hole you used to modify the lid for the gas and liquid posts?
Hey Bobby. It's great to see the next evolution of your setup! Curious to know why you downsized from 20 gallon to 15?
@BobbyFromNJ6 ай бұрын
It's a 15, but all three of my last brew kettles were 15s as well. I'm always brewing 5-6 gallons.
@fireofenergy6 ай бұрын
The people didn't believe how strong it is because no one would actually test their precious little .... on youtube Thanks! While watching countless videos about it, I'm like, "well, aren't ya gonna bang the shit outta it till it breaks?" (and no one did but you)!
@DimpieDeBruyn6 ай бұрын
Can't make out from video ... Website for that wisk ?
@jamesbeebe78296 ай бұрын
Dude! Used to read your articles on homebrewtalk way back. So great to see you're making videos!
@marklpaulick6 ай бұрын
Did you mean to cut it off like that? We want to see the whole brew day! Clean up too!
@BobbyFromNJ6 ай бұрын
Ran out of space abruptly and it wasn't really a planned filming session. I'll try to get my next brew day captured properly with both time lapse and explanatory sections.
@MrCobill6 ай бұрын
@@BobbyFromNJHey Bobby, should I consider changing my order from a Spike kettle to a bottom drain? Both Blickmann & Spike w/legs look nice…can you add legs to the Blickmann? Your thoughts pros/cons please. Bill Colorado
@marklpaulick6 ай бұрын
@@MrCobillif you are willing to drill a hole in your table and leave your kettle there then the blichmann is perfect, clean looking and economical. If you aren’t willing or need more flexibility with legs, get the spike tank.
@marklpaulick6 ай бұрын
Nice Bobby! Looking trim, no? Again with a brilliantly simple set up. I’m about to pull the trigger on one of these from you soon. Nice to see the topsflo still gets it done for you! Can it handle 8-12oz of hops loose in the kettle? (As compared to riptide) is the cleaning as easy as it seems!?
@BobbyFromNJ6 ай бұрын
I never had an issue with the pump clogging but the most pellet hops I've ever had in the kettle at once is 7oz for a NEIPA. As long as the wort is moving, either via the boil movement or whirlpooling during the hopstand, I feel like the particles get spread out and dilute. Cleaning is very easy with the bottom drain. I spray hot water in to dilute the trub pile, maybe 2-3 gallons and then pump that down the drain. Then 3 gallons and a big scoop of PBW, heat to 150 and recirculate through both hoses for 20 minutes. Pump that down the drain and one more quick hot water rinse. The kettle never has to move. The only improvement I could envision is putting a tee directly on the bottom drain port with a second butterfly valve that goes directly to a sewer pipe for that initial rinse out but it's a hardware cost expense that is hardly justified.
@BanjosBikesBrewing6 ай бұрын
Hey Bobby. Thanks for sharing the video. Nice to see your system in action! I have been using one of those large wisks since I started all grain brewing 4 or 5 years ago and have never felt the need to buy a mash paddle. The wisk works great.
@bobg236 ай бұрын
Holy cow! Good to see you!
@mitchmason83866 ай бұрын
Hey Bobby great to See you
@billjenko64077 ай бұрын
Thanks for this demonstration. I am going to try silver soldering a 3/8" nut to a plate of mild steel with a hole, making a wide flange on the threaded nut. Then slide the nut/plate into a otherwise truly inaccessible space where the bolt holds down the engine mounts on my 40 HP diesel engine in my old sailboat. The flange will prevent the nut from turning, and I can turn the head of the bolt from above with a ratchet and long extension. I can test the strength of the solder on the first attempt, and it it fails with a lot of torque on the bolt, think of something else like like taking it to a welder. But I have worked with silver solder before very successfully, so I'll give this a try. I have a couple of locations on the engine mounts that this would be perfect for. If it's possible to add a video comment to your post here, I will video it and let folks see the result.
@henzik7 ай бұрын
I know this is an older video, but do you have part number to build that fermonster lid with the floating dip tube? Thanks!
Пікірлер
This is fantastic. I''ve been seeing these when coming into your shop, and it's great to see them up and running. Yes, please upload videos of your side-by-side experiments and their results. That sounds both fascinating and helpful.
Will that lid fit on a standard corny keg and if so can you buy them separately?
No. The MEGAMOUTH keg hole and matching lid is massive compared to a standard corny keg. The biggest port we can get on a standard lid is a 1" OD tube with the 1/1.5" TC flange on it.
Would you share your PPT?
In order for me to share at my club meeting
Seems like you've gone full keg fermentation now. I recall that you used to use the Fermonsters, but can see how the keg would make for easier transfers and dry hopping.
I never seem to go full anything. As an equipment vendor with a makeshift machine shop/welder, it seems like I ferment or brew in something different almost every time. I use the Torpedo shown in the video for any 5 gallon batch that will be dry hopped. I'm still using fermonsters for a lot of beers, especially the split batches using the 3G fermonsters since two fit in the same fermentation fridge.
That’s how I do it too in my 2 converted kegmenters 💪
Thank you, Bobbeh. We love you!
I try to solder sterling onto stainless steel but its weak .. what i am doing wrong?? 😓 i did it with easy silver solder that i use for jewelry
Simple and slick. I've just started wondering about this as I eliminate opportunities for O2 ingress into my fermented beer. One major gap is how to add clarifying agent at packaging. This should do the trick! In principle you could rig a fermenter to accept ALDC from this syringe to reduce hop creep in heavily dry hopped beers if temperature control is not an option.
I have been looking for an easy off-the-shelf solution to do this exact thing. My DIY attempts have been unsuccessful. Thanks for providing it, I'm on my way to purchase now!
Great method. Excellent presentation of the important details. I currently use a water bottle and carb cap for a similar procedure but I’ll definately add one of these to my next order from you since you are basicallly giving them away at cost.
Need to come up with something that injects fruit purees/infusions into sanki kegs.
I use the same method and it works great.
Sounds like a great plan! No chill? Ferment in 1 gal kegs?
Definitely plan to chill with tiny immersion chillers and will ferment in 2.1 gallon oxebar kegs.
Please tell me you're going to have the clip on thermowell on the site for sale soon!! 🙏
Will you have a red pill and blue pill model?
Wondering what vessels you are using to brew with? I would like to have a smaller brew for testing before I brew a new 10g batch.
They are 10 liter coffee percolators. I was drawn to the double wall construction for insulation purposes since I don't plan to run recirculation. The quality is pretty poor on these though. Half way through a test boil, the sightglass started dripping so I have to take them all out and plug the holes. I also planned to go very low tech using the built in temp control knob but it wouldn't have yielded useful comparisons with temp variations. The baskets are hop baskets that I cut shorter..
Let me tell you why you’re here… What is “real?”.. Great to see a new vid from Bobbbo
He's alive!
Good video. For anyone who's not familiar with the process of bottling beer from a carbonated keg, you chill the bottles and the hose line, etc, to reduce the temperature change when the beer comes in contact. Lower temperatures help CO2 dissolve in beer, so keeping the temperature low during this process keeps more of the CO2 dissolved in the beer. Also, as a side note, making sure that the bottle headspace is full of CO2 helps prevent oxidation and etcetera, but does not have a significant impact on the carbonation of the beer. I once asked a homebrewer friend who's a Chem PhD about both of these topics. The answer was long and complicated and it was outside their area of chemical expertise, and I'm sure my summary (as well as my understanding) is going to be an oversimplification, but: The short version is that while carbonating, i.e. dissolving CO2 into beer, is a chemically driven process (CO2 interacts with water to become carbonic acid), foaming is, they believe, mostly kinetically driven. The lion's share of the kinetic energy comes from the change in pressure between the pressurized keg and the bottle, but the temperature difference does add some kinetic energy. Foaming is caused mostly by molecular-level "brownian" motion that causes the CO2 molecules to move around and bump into each other and accumulate, or (and it's mostly this they think)) to bump into and accumulate around "nucleation sites", which are usually near-microscopic rough spots on the interior surface of the bottle. Increased temperature adds to that brownian motion, so it adds to the moving around and bumping and accumulating. When CO2 molecules accumulate enough, they also accumulate enough energy (collectively) to overcome the energy barriers and come out of solution and become CO2 bubbles. The energy barriers are mostly related to surface temperature but also to the chemical reaction that causes CO2 dissolved in water to become carbonic acid.
That was not silver solder?
Sure it is. "The only difference between soldering and brazing is the temperature at which each process takes place. Soldering takes place at a temperature below 840°F (450°C), and brazing occurs at a temperature above 840°F (450°C)." This process was at about 450F so silver "soldering".
Lol @ the smoke is still in there
Hell yeah. Glad to see you putting out some content.
Quick question - when fermenting with this setup, can you just run a tube from the gas in connector as your blow off tube - and just put the other end in a bucket of Star-San?
Yes, that's exactly how I do it but you should be warned that if your krausen gets out of control, it's possible to clog the poppet valves and overpressurize the fermenter. Leave enough head space and keep temps under control.
@@BobbyFromNJ Thanks! And, I’m brewing a Hef! 😮
Very helpful!! Thank you!
looks awesome
Definitely keep this going Bobby. I'd love to see more YT content from you.
That's the plan. I'm in the middle of building the controller for all four units and will update soon.
Glad to see you are back at it.
Such a great idea for different experiments using different yeasts, hops, etc. The possibilities are endless.
I'm definitely interested in this. Just started home brewing, all grain in 1+ gallon batches. I'd like to scale up... to about 2 gallons max! That's all I need - to learn and drink. Currently using a 10 quart stock pot I have and the stove, which works but I'd like to streamline and better control my process.
I am looking forward to hearing about your small batch experiments
I look forward to seeing these in action and also to the small batch experiments. 🍻
Hello to you also, hint hint 😉
Looks awesome. I make small batches that I pressure can for starters. Something like this would be perfect for that. Can't wait to see more, Cheers.
Just what I was looking for! Do you think having the spigot version would be an issue? Also do you have the link for the gas/liquid posts you used?
Thank you this was the exact video I was looking for!! Incredibly helpful, thank you.
Thanks Bobby! I needed this!! I understood when you explained it at the shop and when I got home it was like I forgot everything. Life saver!!
Awesome video, thank you. Can you tell me what parts and size hole you used to modify the lid for the gas and liquid posts?
www.brewhardware.com/product_p/balllockbulk_floatingdiptube.htm
Hey Bobby. It's great to see the next evolution of your setup! Curious to know why you downsized from 20 gallon to 15?
It's a 15, but all three of my last brew kettles were 15s as well. I'm always brewing 5-6 gallons.
The people didn't believe how strong it is because no one would actually test their precious little .... on youtube Thanks! While watching countless videos about it, I'm like, "well, aren't ya gonna bang the shit outta it till it breaks?" (and no one did but you)!
Can't make out from video ... Website for that wisk ?
Dude! Used to read your articles on homebrewtalk way back. So great to see you're making videos!
Did you mean to cut it off like that? We want to see the whole brew day! Clean up too!
Ran out of space abruptly and it wasn't really a planned filming session. I'll try to get my next brew day captured properly with both time lapse and explanatory sections.
@@BobbyFromNJHey Bobby, should I consider changing my order from a Spike kettle to a bottom drain? Both Blickmann & Spike w/legs look nice…can you add legs to the Blickmann? Your thoughts pros/cons please. Bill Colorado
@@MrCobillif you are willing to drill a hole in your table and leave your kettle there then the blichmann is perfect, clean looking and economical. If you aren’t willing or need more flexibility with legs, get the spike tank.
Nice Bobby! Looking trim, no? Again with a brilliantly simple set up. I’m about to pull the trigger on one of these from you soon. Nice to see the topsflo still gets it done for you! Can it handle 8-12oz of hops loose in the kettle? (As compared to riptide) is the cleaning as easy as it seems!?
I never had an issue with the pump clogging but the most pellet hops I've ever had in the kettle at once is 7oz for a NEIPA. As long as the wort is moving, either via the boil movement or whirlpooling during the hopstand, I feel like the particles get spread out and dilute. Cleaning is very easy with the bottom drain. I spray hot water in to dilute the trub pile, maybe 2-3 gallons and then pump that down the drain. Then 3 gallons and a big scoop of PBW, heat to 150 and recirculate through both hoses for 20 minutes. Pump that down the drain and one more quick hot water rinse. The kettle never has to move. The only improvement I could envision is putting a tee directly on the bottom drain port with a second butterfly valve that goes directly to a sewer pipe for that initial rinse out but it's a hardware cost expense that is hardly justified.
Hey Bobby. Thanks for sharing the video. Nice to see your system in action! I have been using one of those large wisks since I started all grain brewing 4 or 5 years ago and have never felt the need to buy a mash paddle. The wisk works great.
Holy cow! Good to see you!
Hey Bobby great to See you
Thanks for this demonstration. I am going to try silver soldering a 3/8" nut to a plate of mild steel with a hole, making a wide flange on the threaded nut. Then slide the nut/plate into a otherwise truly inaccessible space where the bolt holds down the engine mounts on my 40 HP diesel engine in my old sailboat. The flange will prevent the nut from turning, and I can turn the head of the bolt from above with a ratchet and long extension. I can test the strength of the solder on the first attempt, and it it fails with a lot of torque on the bolt, think of something else like like taking it to a welder. But I have worked with silver solder before very successfully, so I'll give this a try. I have a couple of locations on the engine mounts that this would be perfect for. If it's possible to add a video comment to your post here, I will video it and let folks see the result.
I know this is an older video, but do you have part number to build that fermonster lid with the floating dip tube? Thanks!
www.brewhardware.com/product_p/balllockbulk_floatingdiptube.htm
The only thing I would add to this video is, even if you have a stainless wire wheel, you better be sure it wasn't used on carbon steel at any time.
Personally I would have tinned both surfaces first to ensure full coverage, then soldered together…